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Located on the broad sweep of the White Nile, Juba today rises as the capital of the world’s youngest nation, a city whose very streets bear the imprints of colonial ambition, missionary zeal, wartime upheaval, and the enduring hopes of ordinary people rebuilding at the edge of history. Spread across just over fifty square kilometers—with its wider metropolitan outskirts stretching more than 330 square kilometers—Juba carries within its compact terrain the uneven legacy of empires, the pulse of commerce, and the quiet rituals of daily life in South Sudan’s Central Equatoria State.
Long before its formal establishment, the place known as Juba was a small Bari village, its inhabitants living by the river’s ebb and flow. In 1863, the island of Gondokoro—just upriver—became a base for explorers Samuel and Florence Baker as they charted routes into what is now South Sudan and northern Uganda. Under the Khedivate of Egypt, Gondokoro’s garrison marked the southernmost outpost of an army more concerned with its own survival than territorial control; soldiers there fell prey to malaria, blackwater fever, and other tropical ailments that loomed larger than any opposing force.
The transformation of that riverside hamlet into a township began in 1920–21, when the Church Missionary Society (CMS) founded a mission station and opened the Nugent Memorial Intermediate School atop the sandy banks of the Nile. Not far away, the colonial administration recognized a practical advantage in the site’s access to river transport. By the late 1920s, Bari residents were resettled to clear space for a planned capital of Mongalla Province. Construction moved swiftly: the governor’s offices were in place by 1930, traders from Rejaf had relocated by 1929, and a loose grid of streets was underway by 1927.
Greek merchants quickly became fixtures in the young town. Never numbering more than a couple thousand, they nonetheless built the first stone and plaster landmarks: the White Nile’s first banks—Ivory Bank and Buffalo Commercial Bank—the Central Bank building in the mid‑1940s, the Juba Hotel in the 1930s, and simple gathering places like Notos Lounge. Today, the low‑rise façades and shuttered balconies of the old Greek Quarter—now Hai Jalaba—stand as silent witnesses to that early era of cross‑cultural collaboration.
When Anglo‑Egyptian Sudan came into being in 1899, administrators separated north from south, a division intended to shield the south from northern influence but ultimately serving colonial convenience. In 1946, London and Cairo sought to reconcile administrative costs by uniting both halves. The gesture of the Juba Conference—a hastily convened assembly to placate southern leaders—masked a plan driven more by northern politics than the wishes of people in Central Equatoria. The tensions it unleashed would fracture the country for decades.
A mutiny at Torit in 1955 sparked the First Sudanese Civil War, carrying the conflict deep into Juba’s lanes and fields. Though that war ended in 1972, a second spiral of violence erupted in 1983, with Juba often caught in its crossfire. Even in peacetime, the scars remained. Only after the Comprehensive Peace Agreement of 2005, which set the stage for autonomy in the south, did Juba awaken to possibilities beyond survival. Rumbek, once chosen as the interim seat of government, ceded that role to a revitalized Juba, and the United Nations shifted its regional coordination camp—OCHA Camp—into the city, establishing a foothold for dozens of aid agencies.
On 9 July 2011, when South Sudan took its place on the world map, Juba became the planet’s newest national capital. Flags fluttered along the riverbank; dignitaries spoke of hope and renewal. Yet even as celebratory crowds cheered, quieter debates began over whether Juba’s narrow streets and haphazard layout could sustain the needs of a sovereign state. Plans emerged to relocate the capital to Ramciel—an empty plain roughly 250 kilometers to the north, closer to the country’s geographic center. In September 2011, the government formally announced the move; as of mid‑2020, however, no bulldozers have broken ground, and Juba remains the enduring seat of government.
The city has suffered its share of tragedy in recent years. In September 2015, a fuel tanker explosion tore through a crowded neighborhood, killing nearly two hundred people and reminding all how quickly misfortune could strike where planning and enforcement often fall short. And beginning in April 2023, conflict from across the border poured refugees into Juba—roughly six thousand by mid‑year—many settling in Gorom on the city’s edge, where shortages of food, medical care, and shelter underscored the uneven pace of recovery.
At its heart, Juba is a river port: the White Nile’s southern terminus for goods traveling northward through Bahr-al-Ghazal. Before war fractures disrupted its arteries, highways threaded south to Uganda’s border at Nimule, east toward Nairobi and Mombasa, and west into the vast forests of the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Today, many of these roads lie in disrepair, potholed and overgrown. Demining efforts begun by the Swiss Foundation for Mine Action in 2003 have cleared major corridors to Uganda and Kenya, but reconstruction is slow—hampered by a rainy season that stretches from March until October and by limited budgets stretched thin across relief and development.
Railway dreams have taken shape, too. In August 2008, Uganda and Southern Sudan signed a memorandum to link Gulu with Juba by rail—and eventually to extend lines to Wau. More recent reports hint at ambitions to connect Juba directly to Kenya, bypassing Uganda altogether. Meanwhile, Juba International Airport (IATA: JUB) remains a lifeline for aid flights and passengers, with daily connections to Nairobi, Khartoum, Entebbe, and Addis Ababa. A new terminal, begun when oil prices soared above one hundred dollars a barrel in 2007, stalled as revenue slipped—but work resumed in early 2014, promising modern departure halls and expanded cargo capacity. Nestled nearby, a compound of the United Nations Mission in South Sudan stands ever‑ready to coordinate security and humanitarian relief.
Population figures for Juba have long been contested. In 2005, official counts tallied roughly 163,000 residents; by 2006, aerial assessments pushed that estimate to 250,000. The 2008 census—a survey rejected by southern authorities—claimed 372,413 in Juba County, most of them in the city proper. By independence in 2011, estimates again hovered near 372,000, even as annual growth accelerated—4.23 percent by 2013. Local officials, citing incoming migrants from rural areas, now assert the population tops one million when suburbs are included. As families arrive in search of opportunity, peri‑urban settlements mushroom along dirt tracks, their makeshift huts and corrugated zinc roofs testament to both resilience and the inadequacy of formal housing markets.
Oil revenues and Chinese investment have fueled a construction surge since independence. Dozens of hotels, apartment blocks, and office towers climb skyward from the sandy flats. Regional banks—the Commercial Bank of Ethiopia, Kenya Commercial Bank, Equity Bank—have opened branches, joining homegrown institutions such as Buffalo Commercial Bank, Ivory Bank, and Nile Commercial Bank. Even Uganda’s National Insurance Corporation has staked a claim. Yet markets here remain transient. As research by the Overseas Development Institute has shown, traders often shun permanent shops in favor of temporary stalls, chasing quick profits rather than long‑term investment.
Major thoroughfares such as the Juba–Nimule Road and Aggrey Jaden Road form the skeletal network of urban transport, though buses and minibuses jostle along unpaved sections more accustomed to flash floods than steady commerce. Repairing these roads is seen as vital to cementing peace: only when people can travel safely to ancestral villages can the promise of stability take root.
Against this backdrop of history and infrastructure, the flavors of Juba speak to a wider world of cultural exchange. On market days, street‑side vendors ladle steaming bowls of bamia—okra stew enriched with tomato and tender goat meat—alongside mounds of fluffy rice or flat discs of kisra, a sorghum flatbread fermented and cooked on iron griddles. At dawn, Ful medames—mashed fava beans brightened with garlic, olive oil, and lemon—distributed with thin pita, fuels early-rising porters and office clerks alike. Asida—a thick sorghum porridge—provides comfort when paired with rich stews, while malakwang, a peanut-and-greens concoction, hints at the lush riverine gardens beyond the city limits. And though ugali—maize porridge common across East Africa—arrived with traders from Uganda, it has taken firm root at Juba’s tables, a familiar vehicle for scooping up the region’s most beloved sauces.
Christianity dominates the city’s spiritual life. The grand cathedral of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese presides near leafy avenues, while the Province of the Episcopal Church of South Sudan offers its own carved‑wood pulpit just streets away. Baptist congregations gather under the auspices of the Baptist Convention of South Sudan; Presbyterians worship within churches affiliated with the World Communion of Reformed Churches. On Sundays, processions of white‑clad choirs and barefoot children move between these sanctuaries, their hymns echoing in the early‑morning heat.
That heat is constant. Juba sits just north of the equator, under a tropical wet‑and‑dry climate (Köppen Aw). From November through March, rainfall is scarce and temperatures soar—February highs often exceeding 38 °C. With the first rains in April, the city exhales relief as monthly totals climb above 100 mm until October. By year’s end, nearly one meter of precipitation has fallen, nourishing the fields that feed the city but also reminding residents how unforgiving an African dry season can be.
From its origins as a Bari village to its present role as the nerve center of an independent republic, Juba has been anything but static. It is a city built on compromise—between colonial designs and local traditions, between peace accords and the realities of displacement, between ambition and the patience demanded by slow finance and seasonal rains. Yet within its narrow boulevards and burgeoning suburbs, one senses a determination to make this place not simply a capital on paper, but a home in every sense: where histories converge, where economies find new rhythms, and where the human spirit endures beneath one of Africa’s most enduring rivers.
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Juba is the vibrant, fast-growing capital of South Sudan, perched on the west bank of the White Nile. As the youngest capital city in Africa (since independence in 2011), Juba hums with a mix of bustling market life, tribal cultures, and international aid activity. Straddling riverine beauty and savanna landscapes, it offers a glimpse of South Sudan’s history and hope. Visitors arrive to find an energetic city of dusty roads lined with market stalls, new construction, and distant huts of thatched homes. While formal tourism is minimal, the city’s unique appeal lies in its authenticity: rich local customs, lively open-air markets, and warm hospitality in an under-the-radar destination.
Juba’s history is woven into South Sudan’s struggle for nationhood. Once a backwater provincial town under Sudan’s rule, Juba became a stronghold of southern Sudanese culture and resistance. It was here that key independence talks took place, and today the John Garang Mausoleum memorializes one of the country’s founding fathers. Present-day Juba is the nerve center for NGOs, diplomats, and United Nations agencies, drawing aid workers and journalists from around the globe. Yet it remains a frontier city, with dusty streets and simple shops rather than modern skyscrapers.
Who visits Juba? Travelers to Juba are mostly aid workers, diplomats, businesspeople in the energy and development sectors, and intrepid tourists interested in off-the-beaten-path destinations. Adventure travelers come for an educational experience and to support local communities. It’s not a place for luxury tourism or beach resorts; instead, visitors find rugged guesthouses and a nascent hospitality scene. Juba is especially compelling for those curious about South Sudan’s culture, people, and wildlife. Here you can meet students at the University of Juba, buy fruits and spices at Konyo Konyo Market, and sail a wooden boat on the Nile at sunset.
Unique appeal: Despite its challenges, Juba has a hopeful energy. The riverfront promenade, with a view of the Nile’s green islands and distant hills, is a favorite relaxation spot. Markets and street life showcase crafts and foods from around the country: woven baskets, carved wooden animals, chili sauces, and flatbreads. Local musicians play drums on street corners. Because South Sudan shares borders with Uganda, Kenya, and DR Congo, you’ll find Ethiopian-influenced coffee drinks, spicy East African stews, and even some Chinese-run restaurants reflecting the oil industry’s past connections. Juba is also a starting point for exploring South Sudan’s wildlife parks and rural villages. In short, it’s a city where tradition and the global community intersect.
Comparison to other capitals: Unlike many African capitals, Juba feels informal and personal rather than polished and corporate. Traffic is lighter, and you’re as likely to be held up by cattle crossing the road as by a traffic jam. The diversity of ethnic groups (Dinka, Bari, and others) and languages (English, Juba Arabic, Bari, etc.) gives Juba a different flavor from, say, Nairobi or Addis Ababa. In Juba, you might see young men in shorts selling water by the roadside, church steeples next to mosque domes on the skyline, and UN helicopters landing on the outskirts. The city’s “biggest attraction” is really its culture and people.
Overall, Juba is for travelers seeking authenticity and willingness to handle basic conditions. With careful planning and respect for local customs, visitors can gain rare insight into South Sudan’s nation-building and daily life.
Did You Know? Juba’s population has exploded since independence—from under 100,000 in 2000 to about half a million today. The city doubles in size during weekdays with incoming commuters from nearby villages and refugee camps.
Travel safety in Juba requires caution. South Sudan is considered a high-risk destination, and government advisories (U.S., Canada, etc.) urge against travel outside narrow boundaries. Juba itself is more stable than remote areas, but unrest, armed conflict, and crime are real threats. Visitors must be vigilant at all times.
Current situation: While large-scale war in Juba has largely subsided (UN peacekeepers patrol, and a 2018 peace agreement reduced conflict), sporadic violence and political tension remain. Shootings and grenade attacks have occurred in Juba in recent years, though urban assaults are more common than open battle. Tribal clashes happen elsewhere, and militia skirmishes can flare unpredictably.
Crime and security: Violent crime, including robbery, carjacking, and occasional kidnapping, is a major concern even in Juba. Criminals are often armed and bold; incidents near hotels and restaurants have been reported. Tourists and aid workers sometimes face assaults by men in fake police uniforms or at fake checkpoints. We strongly advise arranging any travel (especially outside the immediate city center) only through trusted organizations or with an armed escort.
Movement and curfews: Many official residences, embassies, and NGOs enforce curfews (often 8pm–6am) and only travel in convoys or armored vehicles. Visitors from foreign governments typically cannot move freely after dark. Even daytime walking is restricted to certain safe zones. Getting around on foot is discouraged; most foreigners avoid walking alone or unescorted.
Terrorism: There is no active terrorist presence, but general lawlessness and weapon proliferation mean any large gathering could be a target. Demonstrations are rare in Juba, but can become dangerous if they occur.
Police and protection: Local police exist but have limited resources and may not respond quickly in emergencies. Private security firms (armed guards, armored cars) are common for foreigners. It is wise to coordinate with your hotel or employer on safe travel advice.
Safety Tip: Only use registered taxis or hotel transport, and carry multiple contact numbers. Let someone know your itinerary, and avoid traveling at night whenever possible.
Women and solo travelers in Juba face additional precautions. South Sudanese culture is conservative, and women should dress modestly (long sleeves and skirts/pants) to avoid unwanted attention. It’s safest for women to be accompanied by a male guide or security when moving about, especially off the main road. Harassment and even assault have been reported against foreigners.
Practical tips: Stay in well-known hotels, lock doors and windows after dark, and avoid empty streets. Use only reputable taxi services rather than walking or taking motorcycle taxis (boda-bodas) solo. Female travelers often benefit from joining group tours or at least having a male colleague present. It’s best to be careful with evening socializing; stick to groups and official venues rather than unvetted bars or clubs.
Juba’s health infrastructure is weak. Hospitals lack advanced care and mosquito-net use is crucial. Major health risks include malaria, waterborne diseases, and vaccine-preventable illnesses.
Emergency response in Juba is rudimentary. There is no single unified emergency number. Common contact numbers are:
Always have phone numbers for your embassy or consulate. In absence of official help, many rely on contacting private ambulance operators or clinic drivers. Juba International Airport also provides a medical evacuation helipad if needed.
Essential: Carry a card with these numbers, and keep an emergency sat-phone or SIM-card (MTN/Zain) active. Download offline maps and share your location with family or colleagues.
All visitors to South Sudan need a visa, generally obtained before arrival. Tourist visas are not commonly offered on arrival, so plan ahead.
Yes. Foreign nationals must hold a visa before arriving in South Sudan. Exemptions are rare (some neighboring countries’ officials, based on agreements). Visitors should contact the Republic’s embassy in their region. For very short transit stays (under 72 hours) at Juba Airport, a transit visa might be arranged, but consult officials beforehand.
Note: Always carry a copy of your passport and visa with you. Leave the original securely locked.
Juba’s climate and events guide the ideal travel time.
Overall, the cool, dry season (Dec–Feb) offers pleasant evenings and easier travel. Busy holidays like Christmas may see higher hotel rates and fewer services, so book ahead.
Reaching Juba requires planning; there are two main routes: air travel or overland crossing.
Traveling by road to Juba is possible but challenging:
Safety: Only travel by road if absolutely necessary, and with a local guide or NGO convoy. There have been ambushes on main roads, especially near Nimule and on routes to/from Uganda/Kenya. Carry water, snacks, and fuel, as stops are limited. Check with authorities (or trusted sources) before overland trips, as security can change quickly.
Within Juba, transportation is informal:
Quick Tip: Always keep some cash handy. If a taxi or guard asks for “allowance” (bribe), politely decline but be prepared to lose a few cents rather than risk confrontation.
Accommodations in Juba range from modest guesthouses to a few upscale hotels. Facilities are basic city-wide (frequent power outages, variable water pressure), but options exist for every budget and comfort need.
Tip: In Juba, “book as you go” is not advisable. Use known agencies or your contacts to arrange accommodation. Check travel forums for recent guest experiences.
Juba’s attractions are modest but culturally meaningful. Highlights include monuments, markets, and riverside spots.
Visitor Insight: Don’t expect Disneyland-like attractions. The joy of Juba is in the simple moments – sipping chai under a tree, watching fishermen on the Nile – more than in “must-see” sights. Guides are helpful in making sense of the history behind each landmark.
Activities in Juba revolve around cultural immersion, markets, and nature.
Shopping Tip: Many traders prefer USD cash; small bills printed after 2006 are best (older notes may be refused even in change). Keep coins of SSP handy for small purchases.
Juba’s dining scene is small but diverse, reflecting its multicultural influences. Expect mostly restaurants in hotels or camp-style lodges.
Casual Eats: Look for shawarma/falafel stands along roads, or roadside grills. A shawarma wrap (meat and salad) costs under $2. These are usually clean, run by locals who know hygiene.
– Bunna (coffee) shops: Juba women may sell roasted coffee beans or brew Arabic coffee (small cardamom-flavored cups) on street corners.
– Local dishes: Try fullé (mashed fava beans with chili), kitcha (flatbread), kisra (sorghum pancake), asida (stiff millet porridge) with any meat stew. These are rarely on restaurant menus for foreigners, but sometimes served at local homes or simple eateries.
Nightlife in Juba is low-key and mostly hotel bars. Still, there are options:
Quick Drink Tip: If you’re carrying small currency, buy drinks in local pounds (SSP); tip in dollars (1–2 USD) for good service. Always check if the establishment takes credit cards (most do not, except in a couple of hotels).
Financial transactions in Juba involve cash and caution:
Budget Tip: Cut costs by staying in local guesthouses and eating local foods. Meeting South Sudanese friends for meals is both economical and rewarding.
Communication is improving but still unreliable:
Connectivity Tip: The Internet can be slow or spotty. Plan any crucial online tasks (banking, emailing HQ) for early morning when usage is lighter. Save important maps and guides offline.
Expect basic utilities with challenges:
Travel Gear Tip: A refillable water bottle with a filter (LifeStraw type) can be handy if bottled water is scarce in remote areas. Also pack hand sanitizer and toilet paper, as many public facilities in Juba may lack supplies.
Understanding local customs ensures a respectful visit.
Cultural Note: Compliments are appreciated but never comment on someone’s wealth or appearance bluntly. Saying “Shukran” (thank you) with a smile goes a long way to show your appreciation of local hospitality.
Although transient, Juba has a significant international resident scene.
Advice for Expats: Be prepared for culture shock and stress. Building trust with local staff and maintaining communication with the outside world are essential. Learn some Juba Arabic and local customs early on.
Foreigners need assistance to safely explore South Sudan.
(Note: Always confirm current status; conditions change rapidly.)
– “Kampala or Nairobi operators: Companies like Carpe Diem or Narus Trails have offered cross-border safaris including South Sudan.
– “Local freelance agencies: Journeys by Design (UK-based NGO travel firm) has information and may set up accommodations and guides (as seen above).
– “Adventure safaris: If interested in wildlife, look for “African Wildlife Safaris” or “One More Adventure Safaris” which sometimes list Nimule tours.
Important: Any organized tour or safari should include security arrangements. Do not hire drivers or boats individually unless vetted. Make sure your itinerary is known to someone at all times.
Traveling in Juba and South Sudan involves grappling with infrastructural and logistical hurdles. Here’s how to prepare:
Is Juba safe for tourists?
Travel advisories rate Juba as high-risk. Violent crime and unrest are the norm in South Sudan. Ordinary tourism is not comparable to safer countries. However, many NGOs and diplomats do travel here. For the well-informed visitor: stick to daylight travel, use reliable transport, and stay within heavily guarded zones. Solo and night travel are not recommended. In short, exercise extreme caution.
How do I respect local traditions?
Dress and behave modestly: cover shoulders and knees. Use formal greetings (“Good morning”, shaking hand). Avoid photographing people without permission. In churches or mosques, men often remove shoes. Offer and receive items with your right hand (the left is considered unclean). Public displays of affection are frowned upon. Show deference to elders and community leaders. Finally, be patient: decisions and processes move slowly – being polite and flexible goes a long way.
Can I use credit cards in Juba?
Credit cards are rarely accepted. Only the major hotels (Acacia, Radisson, Crown) and a few restaurants accept Visa/Mastercard, and they charge high conversion fees. ATMs dispense only SSP and are unreliable. Travelers should carry enough cash (USD) for all major expenses. Plan to pay in cash; carry small bills to avoid shortages of change.
What are the best souvenirs to buy?
Look for unique South Sudanese handicrafts: carved wooden animals (elephants, giraffes), woven grass baskets (often beautifully dyed), leather goods (sandals, pouches), and beaded jewelry. Local fabrics or shawls (although mass-made) and spice mixes (chili, fenugreek) are also worth carrying. Coffee from Sudanese beans can be a gift. Avoid ivory or any animal skins (illegal). Baskets and carvings are distinctive and support local artisans.
Are there day trips from Juba?
Yes. The Nimule National Park (4–5 hours south) is the premier day-trip (arrange with a guide). You can see elephants, hippos, birds, and Nile scenery. Closer: the green swamps at the Nile springs (a one-day drive) or Dinka villages near Terekeka (if you secure a permit). NOTE: All require security clearance and a reliable vehicle with a guide. Border visits (Uganda) require visas and can be done in a long day, but be cautious of road safety and border fees.
How do I stay connected in Juba?
Buy a local SIM (MTN, Zain, or Vivacell) at the airport or city. Use data for internet; home roaming is expensive and spotty. Wi-Fi exists in some hotels and cafés but can be slow. Ensure your phone is unlocked and bring a power bank – charging may be intermittent. Keep loved ones updated via WhatsApp or email (prefer morning times for reliable connections).
What is the expat community like?
Expatriates in Juba form a close-knit but transient community: UN staff, NGOs, oil companies, and diplomats. They rely on each other socially (clubs, churches, social media groups) for news and support. Most expatriates work long hours and have security constraints. Life is tough: expect occasional curfews and slow internet. However, there are social events (Christmas parties, cultural festivals, sports). English and Arabic (Juba dialect) are commonly spoken among them.
How do I handle money and tipping?
Use cash for everything. Withdraw or bring plenty of USD before arrival. Exchange dollars at a bank for SSP for small purchases. Tip modestly if you like (5–10%). Note: tipping is not expected culturally, but small gestures are appreciated (a few SSP to porters, or a dollar for exceptional service). Taxis should not be tipped beyond the negotiated fare.
What are the main challenges of traveling to Juba?
Major challenges include: safety (crime/unrest), health (medical limitations), and comfort (basic infrastructure). Expect frequent power/water outages, dust everywhere, and expensive logistics. Bureaucracy can also be arduous (permits, slow officials). Communication may be spotty. The heat and rainy season can be oppressive. Overcoming these requires flexibility, caution, and a sense of humor.
Packing Suggestion: Insect repellent, a satellite messenger (if going remote), extra passport photos, and your own tea/coffee supplies may make your stay easier.
How do I find a guide or translator in Juba?
Ask your hotel or embassy; many maintain lists of vetted local guides who speak English and the regional languages. Alternatively, contact tour operators in Nairobi/Entebbe that handle South Sudan trips—they can book guides for you. Hiring a guide is strongly recommended for local trips.
Final Tips & Resources
– Stay Informed: Check the latest travel advisories from your government. News outlets like Radio Tamazuj or local English newspapers give updates on Juba events.
– Register with embassy: Notify your consulate when you arrive, and check if they have meetups or emergency notices.
– Insurance: Obtain travel insurance that covers medical evacuation.
– Local contacts: If possible, have at least one local contact or NGO liaison who knows your itinerary.
– Last checks: Before traveling, confirm visa, Yellow Fever certificate, and return ticket. Keep digital and paper copies of all important documents.
– Cultural respect: Learn about South Sudan’s civil war and ethnic groups beforehand to ask informed, sensitive questions. Appreciate that humor is often dry and unpretentious.
South Sudan is not for casual tourism. Juba travel is an adventure in cultural immersion and resilience. For the prepared traveler, it offers rare experiences: lively market bargaining, serene Nile mornings, and warm hospitality in a country striving for peace. By respecting local customs, remaining vigilant, and embracing simplicity, visitors leave Juba with unforgettable stories and a new understanding of this nascent nation.
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