Freetown

Many of the attractions in Freetown are undeveloped and poorly advertised. Because of the small number of visitors that come, there was no commercial motive or financial reward for developing them. There are, however, many hidden jewels that are definitely worth discovering. It’s not uncommon to be the only one who visits some of them.

A trip to the Aberdeen neighborhood will provide a welcome reprieve from the hustle and bustle of the city center. It’s a short car/taxi ride from any region of Freetown. The roads are hardly passable, and the beach road and Sir Samuel Lewis Road have speed bumps. Outside of Alex’s pub, there are a few tiny vendors providing ‘tourist’ food. At Family Kingdom, there is a fashion store. On Lumley Beach Road, there are a variety of additional stalls. On the beach road, not far from the Mammy Yoko Hotel, there are several more contemporary boutiques. On the beach, there are several hawkers selling sunglasses, fruit, peanuts, clothing, and other items.

Beaches

The beaches are stunning and untouched. The most popular beaches, such as Lakka Beach, No. 2 River Beach, and Bureh Beach, provide basic but adequate lodging. Only Podas (minibuses) will take you to Lakka intersection. If you wish to keep using public transit, you’ll have to take the okada (motorbike). If you’re driving solo, you’ll need a decent car due to the poor road conditions. The peninsular road is now being renovated from Lumley to Goderich, and it is now complete. Beaches aren’t always properly marked, so keep an eye out or use GPS. The roads leading to the beaches might sometimes be in bad condition.

The climate of Freetown is tropical, with rainy season running from May to October.

Strong thunderstorms indicate the beginning and conclusion of the rainy season.

Freetown has a tropical monsoon climate, which is characterized by significant precipitation throughout the rainy season.

The yearly average temperature is around 27 degrees Celsius.

The city of Freetown is separated into three political regions: the East End, Central, and West End. The wards of Freetown’s East End (East I, East II, and East III) comprise the city’s greatest population center as well as the city’s poorest areas. East End is home to the Queen Elizabeth II Quay.

Central Freetown is made up of two central wards (Central I and Central II), which comprise Downtown Freetown and the central commercial area (Central II). The majority of the country’s tallest and most significant government buildings, as well as foreign embassies, are located in Central Freetown.

On Tower Hill in downtown Freetown, Sierra Leone’s House of Parliament and State House, the president’s primary residence, are located. The Brookfield area is home to the National Stadium, the home stadium of the Sierra Leone national football team (also known as the Leone Stars).

The West End of Freetown is made up of the city’s three westernmost wards (West I, West II, and West III). These are relatively wealthy wards. The west part of the city is home to the majority of the city’s luxury hotels, as well as a number of casinos and Lumley Beach. The State Lodge, the president of Sierra Leone’s official house, is located in Hill Station’s west end neighborhood.

Sierra Leone’s economic and financial capital is Freetown. The Sierra Leone Broadcasting Corporation, the country’s state television and radio broadcaster, is situated in Freetown. The bulk of foreign enterprises, as well as many of the country’s top corporations, have their headquarters in Freetown.

The city’s economy is mostly based on its last natural port, which is the continent’s biggest natural harbour. Sierra Leone’s principal exports are handled at Queen Elizabeth II Quay, which can receive oceangoing boats.

Food and beverage processing, fish packaging, rice milling, petroleum refining, diamond cutting, and cigarette, paint, shoe, and beer manufacturing are among the industries.

Freetown International Airport, Lungi (on the opposite side of the estuary from Freetown). In 2012-13, the airport was renovated. Departure procedures, which used to be quite complex, are no longer an issue. Airport facilities and experiences are comparable to those of other nations in the area.

The journey from the airport to Freetown may be difficult, and the safety of the different operators has been called into doubt. There are a variety of swift boat services that span the estuary, and most international tourists take advantage of this option, which costs about US$40. Simply go to the right after leaving the airport building to pick them up. Sea Coach Express (Pelican Water Taxis) runs boats from the Mahera Hotel to the Aberdeen Bridge for Le180,000 (40USD). Sea Bird Express, a new operator, can transport you to Murray Town. The hovercraft service is no longer available. Most international visitors choose Sea Coach Express or Sea Bird because they bypass the sluggish journey through the busy east end of Freetown. The helicopter is presently solely available for hire.

Another option is to take the overcrowded boat to the main portion of Freetown. A seat on a ferry-bound bus costs Le60,000. The bus transports passengers to Rawdon Street in Freetown’s CBD. This journey may take more than 3 hours and has been known to take up to 8 hours. It takes 4+ hours to get reach the city by car, through Port Loko.

Finally, a few private boats navigate the estuary. This is not something you should do late at night.

Unfortunately, thefts from hold luggage were widespread at airports, particularly on the way out of the nation. Recent advancements in security have been made. It is still prudent to keep valuables in your cabin bags. Another effective strategy is to have your checked luggage wrapped in cellophane at your place of origin.

Sierra Leone’s public railway system was shut down in 1974. Cline Town now boasts a railway museum that is definitely worth a visit. Many of the old railway structures and signage may still be seen in and around Freetown, notably at Hill Station and Congo Cross. Walking along most of the track bed used to be accessible, beginning at the Hill Station Club and continuing down the hill through Congo Cross into Freetown, but recent road development has made the route difficult to discover.

Many roads in Freetown are being rebuilt, and a bypass route is being developed to connect the western portion of the city to the rest of the nation, bypassing the crowded eastern side of town. The highways through Leicester and along the shore of the Freetown peninsular are also being rebuilt. Work on the roadways through Aberdeen and Lumley has progressed well, including the completion of the beach road. Unfortunately, the Sierra Leone Roads Authority has stopped maintaining other roads, which means they are deteriorating.

Local taxis follow predetermined itineraries and provide shared trips. There is no real method for the uninitiated to figure out where they are going, and they are more concerned with earning a livelihood than explaining things to strangers. But they’re so inexpensive (1,000 leones), you can simply hail one and watch how long it takes you to get to your destination before turning! Taxis that are empty will infer that foreigners want to charter a cab (see below) rather than share it. Simply proclaim “no cha cha” as you board to let them know you want a shared journey.

Poda-podas are a less pleasant shared ride alternative, but they are more convenient for longer journeys since they post their start and finish places on the front of the vehicle. If only you’d known what those symbols signified! “Lumley” will take you to Lumley Beach via the southern bridge, “Aberdeen” will take you to Aberdeen via the north bridge from Murray Town, “Eastern Police” will take you to the big clock tower at Kissy Road on the East Side (this is a good place to get dropped off to find a poda-poda to Waterloo), and there are probably others that other Wikivoyagers will figure out and write about here. If you’re searching for downtown, the locals refer to it as “Tong.”

If desired, one may approach a cab and charter it (cha cha) for a few hours, a day, or even days. A reasonable hourly rate is roughly $5, with a day rate of around $50. Taxis may be rented for the whole route, which should not cost more than $4 for a ride inside Freetown. Drivers expect to be bargained with, so don’t be afraid to be bold and bargain! Allowing the driver to know that if he provides you a decent price and you appreciate his service, you will retain him on speed dial for longer chartered trips is a highly compelling negotiation tool. Having a trustworthy taxi driver on your phone shortlist is always a smart idea, especially for female travelers.

If you don’t think this is the method for you, hotel taxis are frequently available in much better condition and are controlled. These, too, will cost up to $10.

Auto rental is offered and is usually booked via hotels or local car dealerships. They usually come with a driver. Journeys outside of Freetown may need the use of a four-wheel drive vehicle, which will cost extra, approximately $150 plus fuel per day, including the driver.

However, if you want to socialize with the locals, which is recommended since it promotes social inclusion, you could be shocked. Locals may assist you make your way about town, rent taxis for you, and introduce you to their friends and relatives, as well as rituals that are going place in certain circumstances. Sierra Leoneans are quite welcoming people, thus they can also cook for you. Many travelers fall into the trap of visiting and hanging out with just familiar folks. It’s best to think of visiting Sierra Leone as a social/cultural vacation that allows tourists and locals to share cultures while also seeing the “diamond in the rough.” Seeing both the beautiful and negative sides of Sierra Leone is what makes the trip memorable.

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TRANSPORTATION

The beaches are stunning and unspoiled. Most popular destinations, such as Lakka Beach, No. 2 River Beach, and Bureh Beach, provide modest but adequate lodgings. Podas (minibuses) will only carry you as far as the Lakka intersection. If you wish to continue using public transit, you must take the okada (motorbike). Because the road conditions are poor, you’ll need a decent car if you’re driving alone. The peninsular road is now being rebuilt and will run from Lumley to Goderich. Beaches are not often adequately signposted, so keep an eye out or use GPS. The roads leading to the beaches might often be deplorable.

• Lumley Beach. The primary public beach in Freetown that faces the Atlantic and has stores, restaurants, hotels, a golf course, and local clubs. The beach is famous for football and jogging, and it is usually packed on holidays and weekends. It is not always clean, and in September 2015, it was overwhelmed by massive amounts of sea weed pushed in from the Atlantic. The removal of all (illegally built) beach bars has had no positive impact on the beach.
• Goderich Beach. Goderich is not well-known for its beach, which most visitors pass by on their route to other beaches. This would be a top attraction somewhere else.
• Lakka Beach. It takes roughly ten minutes to drive from Lumley. There are several places to dine and sleep in this area. The Hard Rock Café (no relation to the worldwide chain) on the rocky peninsular provides fantastic views of the beach and, like Paul’s and Club Med, serves excellent fresh seafood. These locations also provide good lodging. Palm Beach (formerly the Cotton Club) is in disrepair but will be refurbished shortly.
• Hamilton Beach. Unfortunately, this beach has been turned into a mining site.
• Sussex Beach. Franco’s, a well-known restaurant, is located nearby. The environment is lovely, the cuisine is delicious, but the service is appalling.
• No. 2 River Beach. Driving another 20 minutes will take you to No. 2 River Beach. The locals have organized a communal effort to care after this beautiful beach and river outfall. There are a few tiny artisan businesses as well as a pub that serves cool beverages and fresh fish/lobster. If you recall the Taste of Paradise advertisement for the Bounty chocolate bar from the 1970s, here is where it was shot.

From the Tokeh intersection, you’ll be traveling on a great, modern, and smooth paved road. However, depending on your starting location in Freetown, the following beaches are also easily accessible by driving around the opposite side of the mountains (Bai Bureh Rd or Regent Road). If you take this route, turn right at Waterloo and continue on the new road.

• Tokeh Beach.
• York Beach. Grey sand beach, but intriguing little fishing community with some ancient Portuguese ruins.
• Black Johnson Beach. 
• John Obey Beach. Two tiny eateries and two beautiful beaches (if you can find them). The freshly established Tribewanted initiative’s home.
• Bureh Beach. Beautiful beach and river. There aren’t many restaurants, so bring your own food for a fantastic picnic.
• Kent Beach. Aside from the seashore, Kent offers several fascinating historical sites. The first stop is the’slavery administration office,’ where slaves were confined and registered before being sold. The walls and structures of this colonial colony may still be found. Second, you may go to Siaka Stevens’ former house.
• Mamah Beach.
• Banana Island Beaches. Two of the country’s most remote beaches.

Many of Freetown’s attractions remain undeveloped and underutilized. Due to the relatively low number of visitors coming, there has been little motivation or financial benefit for developing them. However, there are several hidden jewels that are definitely worth discovering. It’s not uncommon to be the only one who visits some of them.

A visit to the Aberdeen neighborhood will provide a welcome diversion from the bustling city center. It’s a short car/taxi ride from anywhere in Freetown. The roads are barely passable, and keep an eye out for speed bumps on the beach road and Sir Samuel Lewis Road. Outside Alex’ pub, there are a few tiny vendors serving ‘tourist’ cuisine. Family Kingdom has a fashion shop. Other booths may be located along Lumley Beach Road. On the beach road, not far from the Mammy Yoko Hotel, there are several more contemporary boutiques. There are several hawkers on the beach selling sunglasses, fruit, peanuts, clothing, and other items. A nice artisan market is located just beyond the Tourist Office and is considerably less crowded than the Big Market.

Hill Station has a number of colonial stilt dwellings. Most are in terrible condition, yet they provide insight on how Colonial Officials lived in the past. Downtown, the historic board houses are typical Krio architecture with Caribbean influences.

• Cape Sierra Leone Lighthouse (At the end of the peninsular close to Burmoi Hotel. Head towards the new radar tower.). The British erected the lighthouse in 1812. It is in excellent shape (it has been refurbished in 2010). The views of the Atlantic Ocean are breathtaking. If you’re fortunate, a member of the local staff will show you around.
• National Rail museum, Cline Street. Open M-Sa 10:30AM-5PM. The museum has a number of steam/diesel locomotives and carriages, including one that was to be used by HM Queen Elizabeth II on her state visit. Everything has been restored. Typically, a guide will take visitors around. Donations are accepted for admission. Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-17 p.m.
• Sierra Leone National Museum, Siaka Stevens St. Guided tours of historical artifacts such as masks, military relics, and local costumes.
• Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary,  +232-76-611211, e-mail:info@tacugama.com. Outside of Freetown and will need the use of a four-wheel drive vehicle. Through Hill Station and Leicester, take the Regent Road. Keep an eye out for the right-hand entrance. Open twice daily at 10:30AM & 4PM 7 days a week by appointment. Le 30,000 (approx. 10 USD), Le 15,000 for children.

Bunce Island is undoubtedly the most significant historical place in Africa in terms of American history. Attempts by African Americans to trace their ancestors through DNA testing have revealed more ties to Sierra Leone than to any other country, and the slave forts of Bunce Island were the busiest on Africa’s then-called Rice Coast, sending countless numbers of captured slaves to the Carolinas, Georgia, and Florida.

While the ruins are somewhat vast, they are fully overgrown with vegetation and are in desperate need of repair. Unless you consider the guestbook, there has been no growth of tourism infrastructure here.

It’s easy to get to Bunce Island if you’re ready to pay at least $150 to rent one of the large wooden fastboats from Kissy Ferry Terminal. You’ll need about $300 for a decent speedboat from Aberdeen, where the speedboats depart for Lungi Airport.

However, neither choice ensures much advice when you arrive. Pa Braima Bangura, the 95-year-old caretaker, retired in 2011, but will still accompany you if you pick him up in Pepel, the hamlet across the narrow on the north side of the river. He does not, however, speak English, thus you will want the services of a Krio translation. Interestingly, his advice differs significantly from that accessible on the internet, so you can pick who knows what’s what!

As a result, if you are a solitary visitor with less than $150 to spend, this becomes a grueling trip. The most practical approach (although it’s everything but rational) is to take a passenger boat (one of the long dugout wooden powered fastboats) from Big Wharf in Freetown directly to Pepel ($2). There will very certainly be just one of these per day, only on weekdays, and it will most likely depart about 3PM or so, so you will need to be early to ensure you get on it. Try to view Bunce Island when you arrive so you can board the fastboat return early in the morning after staying in Pepel with the chief’s permission (budget $15-20 in leones so you can transfer 10,000 notes to all the relevant hands). But, really, this will not work. So spend the morning seeing the island, then return to Pepel and rent a moto-taxi for the 90-minute dusty drive back to Tagrin ($5-10) to catch the ferry to either Kissy or Government Wharf in Freetown. The boat ride from Pepel to Bunce Island, including waiting, will cost at least $30 in leones. Budget travel to Bunce Island is not a viable option.

• A game of golf or tennis at Lumley’s club, which is located right off the shore.
• Gamble at the Casino in Aberdeen.
• Look for the remnants of the railway infrastructure that ran from Hill Station to the city of Freetown through Congo Cross.
• Discover colonial battleship ruins by scuba diving or snorkeling at Banana Island, and afterwards have a barbecue on Jonobo Beach.
• Fishing for fun Charter a boat for world-class game fishing, or join one of Banana Island’s short fishing excursions for beginner anglers.

There are a few high-quality restaurants in Freetown, but relatively few in the lower tier.Barracuda, grouper, and lobster are plentiful. There is a sizable Lebanese community in Freetown. As a result, most restaurants provide excellent Lebanese cuisine.

• Fresh peanuts called “Granite” (ground nuts) from local vendors on Lumley Beach and across Freetown.

• Crown Bakery Restaurant, Wilberforce Street, Freetown Centre. This is the only “Western” restaurant in the area. You may get ice to go with your meal here.
• Crown Bakery Express, Wilkinson Road. Sandwich shop that is clean and contemporary. A decent lunch spot with WiFi.
• Diaspora, 2 Pricilla Street (off Shiaka Stevens).
• Prince’s pizza (take-away), 125 Wilkinson Road,  +232 22 239114.
• Roy’s Beach Bar, Lumley Beach Road (Kinston upon Hull Highway). Good food served on the beach road.
• Senegalese restaurant, Wilkinson Road (coming from town, on the right side after the Methodist school (the place has green and blue neon lighting). Excellent fish kebabs.

• Country Lodge Hotel Restaurant,  +232 76 69000, fax: +232 22 235688. HS 51 Hill Station, ). On Thursdays, there is live jazz and there are excellent views of the city. The peppercrust stake is excellent, and Mongolian night is held every Friday.
• The Hub Restaurant (also does take-away pizza/delivery), 4 Regent Rd, +232 22 232872. Wilberforce. It is fully air conditioned and quite popular. Take cautious not to get stranded in the parking lot.
• Sierra Lighthouse Restaurant (Turn left in front of Bintumani Hotel), +232 22 236676. 5 Man of War bay.
• Atlantic Restaurant, Beach Road, Lumley, +232 76667677. 5 Man of War bay.
• Indochine Restaurant, 64 Sir Samuel Lewis Rd,  +232 22 2733452.Aberdeen. Excellent Chinese/Thai cuisine in a stylish air-conditioned restaurant. They also have a restaurant in Conakry.
• Balmaya Arts Restaurant, 32B Main Motor, Congo Cross,  +232 22 230055.
• Bamboo Hut Bar and Restaurant,  +232 22 230462. 70A Wilkinson Road.
• The Solar Hotel restaurant, near Man o’ War Bay. Now closed for refurbishment.
• Mamba Point Restaurant at Lagoonda (Close to the Hilton Cape Sierra site). In 2015, it was completely rebuilt to a high quality. The folks behind this originated from Wilberforce’s Mamba Point, which is now the Hub. They carried the personnel, delicious meals, and their good reputation with them. It is regarded as one of Freetown’s greatest eateries. Arrive early and choose a seat on the terrace for the greatest view of Man o’war Bay. They also feature a well-designed air-conditioned interior portion. The Lagoonda Casino is located on the second floor.
• Bliss Restaurant, Wilkinson Road (Opposite RFSLAF HQ). Fine Asian cuisine. There is both indoor and outdoor seating. This is one of Freetown’s long-standing establishments and is well worth seeking out (there is no sign outside).

Along the beach road, in addition to hotels and restaurants, there are several bars. The bars that were on the beach have since been dismantled. The popular pubs and restaurants in Aberdeen’s Man of War Bay (Alex’s, Sports Bar, and O’Casey’s) have mainly closed.

There are several little pubs on every street, many of which serve just a few clients.

Paddy’s on the way into Aberdeen was a “must-see” for every tourist. This tavern is well-known and was the only one that remained open during the war; it has now been renamed Quincy’s. Star beer is offered on tap at finer establishments. The Hill Station Club at Hill Station is also worth a visit. This historic gentleman’s drinking club was robbed during the war, but the structure survived, and the bar will be available to tourists. If you’re fortunate, you’ll be permitted to view the snooker area, where the tables look to have been neglected for many years and the names of former champions remain on the sign boards.

There is also a tiny local bar called Tribes on Sir Samuel Lewis Road (same as Paddy’s) with a pool table.

• Hill Station Club. Gentleman’s club from the colonial era. The tavern is in disrepair, yet it still serves beer.
• Oasis, Murray Town Road (100m down from Rokel Bank on the opposite side of the road. Drive down a track and it looks like a private house.). One of Murray Town’s few great spots to drink and dine. Good meal, but the best part is the wonderful fruit smoothies.
• Quincy’s (Paddy’s), Sir Samuel Lewis Road (Near Aberdeen Bridge), +232 76 651 655. It was one of Freetown’s oldest bars. It was closed in 2009 due to a slump, but has since been refurbished and reopened as Quincy’s under new management. Quincy’s offers a short menu of freshly prepared grilled cuisine and a few sides. The bar acts as a nightclub and is open till morning. In December 2015, a VIP area opened, enabling patrons to celebrate in air-conditioned luxury. Two decent pool tables are constantly full, and the atmosphere is fantastic. They ‘don’t close until you finish drinking!’ in their own words.
• Papaya, Family Kingdom, Aberdeen. Angels Delight restaurant has been replaced with an elevated bar. Serves a limited menu of decent cuisine, including kebabs and pizza.

Violent crime is uncommon in Freetown. However, there have been a few incidences in Lumley and Aberdeen late at night, near clubs/bars. Petty crime is widespread; take care of your belongings and avoid leaving valuables in rooms. Thefts from bags at Sierra Leone’s airport on the way out are extremely regular. Important stuff should not be left in baggage.