Lakerda – Salt-Cured Bonito Slices

Lakerda is a prized traditional Greek meze made from salt-cured bonito (a type of large tuna-like fish). Its preparation involves preserving thick steaks of fresh bonito in salt brine for several days until the flesh is firm and deeply flavorful. When ready, the slices of lakerda are served simply drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and fresh lemon juice. The result is an intensely savory, slightly tangy appetizer that highlights the pure essence of fish. Eaten slowly with small pieces of bread and accompanied by ouzo or wine, lakerda epitomizes the Greek way of savoring food and drink with friends.

This ancient fish preservation technique was historically important before refrigeration. Coastal communities in Greece, especially around the Aegean, have long cured bonito (and other large fish) to enjoy their catch year-round. The process is straightforward but lengthy: bonitos are caught in late spring or summer when the fish are fattier. Filleted and butterflied, the flesh is layered with coarse sea salt in a container and weighted down. Over days to weeks in a cool environment, moisture is drawn out of the fish, intensifying its flavor and giving it a firm texture. Bay leaves or vinegar might be added for aroma in some family recipes.

The finished lakerda has a translucent pink-orange color and a firm, steak-like texture. It looks almost like sashimi or lox (smoked salmon) on a platter. Thin slices are customary, letting diners chew slowly to enjoy the depth of flavor. The salt cure mellows considerably once washed off; what remains tastes rich and savory, with a touch of the ocean. Extra virgin olive oil adds smoothness and a fruity note, while fresh lemon provides a bright counterpoint. A few cracked peppercorns or capers can be added, but often the dish is left very simple – a testament to the quality of the fish.

Lakerda is a staple of Greek summertime dining, commonly served at seaside tavernas and backyard parties. It’s often brought out as an apero (pre-meal cocktail snack) alongside dips like tzatziki or taramasalata. In many regions, it is paired with ouzo or tsipouro – anise-flavored spirits whose aroma complements the cured fish. The communal plate of lakerda invites conversation and leisurely enjoyment. Sharing the dish is part of the experience: each person takes a slice, squeezes a bit of lemon, and savors it slowly.

Today, making lakerda at home is a labor of love since it requires time and space. For most cooks, it’s easier to purchase ready-cured bonito slices from a specialty shop or deli. However, knowing the tradition behind it deepens appreciation. The fish must be very fresh to start (often marinated whole immediately after catch), and the curing process reflects seasonal rhythms – for example, tying in with Easter or summer festivals when preserved foods feature on tables.

In short, lakerda represents Greece’s respect for seafood and simple ingredients. It’s at once a humble peasant food (preserving leftovers) and a treasured delicacy. Those who try it will notice the unctuous richness and the way the flavors linger on the tongue. It’s a dish that teaches patience: the curing process takes time, but the final bite is rewarding. If you love cured meats or fish, lakerda is Greece’s gift to the cured-protein category.