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In northern Croatia, Christmas lunch often centers on a large roast turkey, carved at the table and served over pale sheets of mlinci that have soaked up the roasting juices. That pattern is widely recognised as purica s mlincima, a hallmark of holiday cooking in Zagreb and the surrounding Zagorje region. Within this broader tradition, a more specific turkey appears in regional lists under the name Purgerica: a Christmas bird from the area bordering Zagreb, filled with chestnuts, apples, bacon and lemon.
The word “Purger” is a local nickname for long-time residents of Zagreb, so the name Purgerica signals something distinctly tied to that urban and suburban table. In descriptions from food and culture surveys, the turkey is always whole, always roasted, and always stuffed with a mixture that balances sweet, smoky and bright notes: earthy chestnuts, tart apples, strips of smoked bacon and a sharp hit of citrus. This creates a stuffing that feels wintry without heaviness. Chestnuts lend a creamy, nutty texture, apples keep the filling supple and faintly tangy, while bacon weaves in cured pork depth that suits a cold December day.
This recipe keeps that core profile and sets it inside a framework that matches home kitchens today. The turkey is rubbed inside and out with salt, black pepper, sweet paprika and garlic, following common Croatian approaches to Christmas poultry roasts, where lard or butter carries the spice mixture and a moderate oven lets the bird cook slowly until the skin turns deep golden and the meat stays tender. A short rest after roasting helps the juices redistribute, so each slice stays juicy on the plate.
The stuffing sits at the heart of Purgerica. Cooked chestnuts are crumbled with sautéed onion, celery and diced bacon, then mixed with apple cubes, lemon zest and a restrained amount of bread to absorb excess fat. A splash of white wine and stock softens the mixture without turning it soggy, and a single egg binds it so the slices hold together once the bird is carved. The result is a filling that cuts neatly yet retains pockets of whole chestnut and fruit, rather than collapsing into paste.
Traditionally, a Christmas turkey in Croatia reaches the table alongside mlinci, that characteristic dried flatbread broken into shards, blanched, then drenched with pan juices. This version keeps the turkey and stuffing as the main focus, while leaving the question of sides open. Mlinci, simple roasted potatoes, or even a celery-root mash all sit well beside the meat and catch the richly seasoned roasting liquid.
For households with mixed tastes, this Purgerica roast can serve as a bridge between a classic whole bird and more contemporary holiday roasts. It keeps the recognizable structure of a festive turkey while adding distinct Central European character. The stuffing leans on ingredients that are common in the region—chestnuts from nearby hills, apples from orchards along the Sava valley, cured pork that appears in countless stews and soups—so the dish feels rooted in place rather than generic.
From a practical angle, the recipe suits anyone planning a main course that can anchor a long midday meal. Most of the work happens early: seasoning, stuffing and getting the bird into the oven. Once roasting begins, the cook mainly bastes and checks temperature, then prepares sides while the turkey finishes and rests. The final platter offers bronzed skin, slices of breast and dark meat, and spoonfuls of stuffing scented with lemon and thyme, making a centerpiece that lines up closely with how many families in and around Zagreb still imagine a full Christmas table.
12
servings45
minutes180
minutes750
kcalPurgerica roast turkey is a whole Croatian Christmas turkey from the Zagreb region, filled with a chestnut, apple and bacon stuffing brightened with lemon. The bird is rubbed with paprika, garlic and herbs, then roasted at a steady heat until the skin turns golden and crisp while the meat stays tender. Inside, the stuffing combines creamy chestnuts, soft apple cubes and smoky bacon in a mixture that slices neatly once the turkey rests. Most of the preparation happens ahead of time, so the roast suits a long holiday lunch with family or guests. The turkey pairs naturally with mlinci, roasted potatoes, or simple winter sides, and the pan juices form a quick gravy for serving.
Whole turkey, 4.5–5 kg (10–11 lb) — ideally free-range; thawed fully if previously frozen
Fine sea salt, 3 tbsp — for seasoning the skin and cavity
Freshly ground black pepper, 1½ tsp — divided between rub and cavity
Sweet paprika, 2 tsp — Croatian or Hungarian style, not smoked
Garlic, 4 large cloves, finely minced — rubbed over the skin and inside the cavity
Unsalted butter or pork lard, 3–4 tbsp, softened — spread over the skin for colour and flavour
Fresh rosemary, 2 small sprigs — placed in the cavity; or 1 tsp dried
Bay leaves, 2 — tucked into the cavity
Dry white wine, 150 ml (⅔ cup) — for the roasting pan
Chicken or turkey stock, 250 ml (1 cup) — for the roasting pan and basting
Lemon, 1 small, halved — one half inside the cavity, one half squeezed over the skin
Cooked, peeled chestnuts, 300 g (about 2 cups) — vacuum-packed or home-roasted; roughly chopped
Smoked bacon or pancetta, 150 g (5 oz) — cut into small cubes
Onion, 2 medium (about 250 g), finely diced — yellow or white
Celery stalks, 2, finely diced — adds gentle aromatic depth
Tart apples, 3 medium (about 450 g), peeled, cored, 1 cm cubes — Granny Smith or similar
Unsalted butter, 60 g (4 tbsp) — for sautéing vegetables and bacon
Olive oil or neutral oil, 1 tbsp — supports the butter and helps prevent scorching
Fresh thyme leaves, 1 tsp — or ½ tsp dried thyme
Dried marjoram, 1 tsp — nod to Central European seasoning
Fine sea salt, 1¾ tsp — adjust to taste, bearing bacon saltiness in mind
Freshly ground black pepper, ½ tsp
Fresh parsley, 3 tbsp, finely chopped — stirred in at the end
Fresh lemon zest, from 1 lemon — finely grated
Dry white wine, 60 ml (¼ cup) — deglazes the pan and softens the stuffing
Chicken or turkey stock, 60–90 ml (¼–⅓ cup) — adds moisture if the mixture feels dry
Fresh breadcrumbs, 70–80 g (about 2 lightly packed cups) — from day-old white bread; gluten-free crumbs work if needed
Egg, 1 large, lightly beaten — binds the stuffing so it slices well
Roasting juices and fat from the pan
All-purpose flour, 2 tbsp (about 16 g) — or gluten-free flour blend
Dry white wine, 60 ml (¼ cup) — loosens browned bits
Chicken or turkey stock, 250–350 ml (1–1½ cups) — adjust to desired thickness
Fine sea salt and black pepper — to taste
Mlinci, 400–500 g dried — prepared according to package or house method, then moistened with roasting juices
or Roasted potatoes or root vegetables
Simple green salad or cabbage salad
Dry and season the bird - Pat the turkey thoroughly dry with paper towels, including the cavity. Mix salt, pepper and paprika in a small bowl. Rub this mixture generously over the skin and inside the cavity.
Add aromatics and fat - Stir the minced garlic into the softened butter or lard. Spread it evenly over the turkey skin, working a little under the breast skin where reachable without tearing. Place rosemary, bay leaves and one lemon half in the cavity.
Chill or rest - Set the seasoned turkey on a rack in a roasting pan. Leave uncovered in the refrigerator for 1–12 hours, or at room temperature for about 45 minutes if time is short, so the salt penetrates the meat.
Cook the bacon - Place a large skillet over medium heat. Add the diced bacon and cook for 5–7 minutes, stirring now and then, until the fat renders and the edges turn lightly browned. Transfer bacon to a large bowl with a slotted spoon, leaving most of the fat in the pan.
Sauté the vegetables - Add butter and oil to the skillet with the bacon fat. Once melted and foaming, add onion and celery. Cook over medium heat for 8–10 minutes until the onion turns soft and lightly golden at the edges.
Season the base - Stir in thyme, marjoram, salt and pepper. Cook for 1 minute so the herbs warm in the fat.
Deglaze and soften - Pour in the white wine, scraping up any browned bits from the pan. Let the liquid reduce by about half, 2–3 minutes, then add the stock and simmer briefly.
Combine stuffing ingredients - Tip the contents of the skillet into the bowl with the bacon. Add chopped chestnuts, apple cubes, parsley, lemon zest and breadcrumbs. Toss until everything distributes evenly and the mixture feels moist but not wet. Adjust seasoning if needed.
Bind the stuffing - Let the stuffing cool until just warm, then stir in the beaten egg. The mixture should hold together if pressed in a handful; add another spoonful of stock if very dry, or extra breadcrumbs if loose.
Loosely fill the cavity - Spoon stuffing into the cavity without packing tightly; leave a little space for expansion during roasting. Any extra stuffing can go into a small buttered baking dish to bake alongside the turkey during the last 40 minutes.
Close and shape - Pull the skin at the cavity opening over the stuffing and secure with skewers or kitchen twine. Tie the legs together and tuck the wing tips under the bird so the turkey roasts evenly.
Preheat the oven - Heat the oven to 180°C (350°F) with a rack in the lower third.
Prepare the roasting pan - Pour the wine and 1 cup (250 ml) stock into the bottom of the pan under the rack. Squeeze the remaining lemon half over the turkey, then place it breast-side up on the rack.
Start roasting - Roast for 60 minutes, basting every 20–30 minutes with the pan juices. If the breast browns very quickly, tent it loosely with foil.
Continue at steady heat - Keep roasting for another 1½–2 hours, still basting now and then. Add a little extra stock or water to the pan if the liquid nearly evaporates. Total roasting time for a 4.5–5 kg turkey usually falls between 2½ and 3 hours.
Check internal temperature - Insert an instant-read thermometer into the thickest part of the thigh without touching bone. The target is at least 74°C (165°F) in the thigh and around 70°C (160°F) in the breast. If needed, return the bird to the oven and check again after 10–15 minutes.
Rest the turkey - Transfer the turkey carefully to a carving board or platter, keeping the stuffing inside. Cover loosely with foil and let rest for 25–30 minutes.
Separate fat and juices - Skim excess fat from the roasting pan, leaving about 2–3 tbsp fat with the juices and browned bits.
Cook the flour - Place the pan over medium heat on the stovetop. Sprinkle in the flour and whisk for 2–3 minutes until the mixture forms a smooth, light brown paste.
Finish the gravy - Whisk in the wine, then gradually add stock while whisking to avoid lumps. Simmer for 5–8 minutes until slightly thickened and glossy. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Strain into a jug if a smooth texture is preferred.
Remove stuffing and carve - Spoon the stuffing into a warm serving bowl. Carve the turkey into breast slices, thigh and drumstick portions. Arrange on a platter with stuffing and any chosen sides.
Serve with mlinci or other sides - Spoon hot pan gravy over the meat at the table. Offer mlinci or potatoes, winter salad and extra lemon wedges if liked.
Approximate values for one of 12 servings, including stuffing but excluding gravy and sides:
| Nutrient | Approx. Amount per serving |
|---|---|
| Calories | ~750 kcal |
| Carbohydrates | ~35 g |
| Protein | ~65 g |
| Fat | ~35 g |
| Fiber | ~6 g |
| Sodium | ~900 mg |
| Key Allergens | Gluten (breadcrumbs, mlinci), dairy (butter), egg |
Estimates based on standard reference data for roast turkey, chestnuts, apples, bacon and bread; actual values vary with specific products and portion sizes.
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