Croatian Bean Stew with Smoked Pork

Croatian bean stew, known at the table simply as grah or varivo od graha, belongs to the small group of dishes that feel at home in every part of the country. In coastal towns, inland villages, and big cities, a large pot of beans with smoked meat has long filled kitchens with the thick, slightly sweet fragrance of onions, paprika, and slow-cooked pork. In many households it still functions as a winter standard: a weekday lunch that feeds a crowd, sits gently on a low flame, and welcomes anyone who comes through the door with an appetite.

The base of the stew remains simple and familiar. Dried beans, usually white or mottled varieties such as cranberry or trešnjevac, soak overnight in cool water. The next day they simmer with onions, carrots, potatoes, bay leaf, and red paprika, sometimes with a spoon of tomato paste or a cube of vegetable seasoning such as Vegeta. Smoked pork ribs, ham hock, or sausage lend depth and a distinct, savory aroma that many Croats associate with school canteens, mountain huts, and Sunday lunches at grandparents’ homes. 

The texture of a well-made varivo od graha sits somewhere between soup and stew. The broth carries a gentle red hue from paprika and tomato, while the beans turn creamy but stay intact. Carrots and potatoes soften without disappearing, so a spoonful delivers separate pieces rather than a uniform mash. In some regions and families, a flour-and-paprika roux (zaprška) thickens the stew. In others, the beans themselves fill out the liquid, sometimes helped by mashing a small portion directly in the pot. 

The version described here leans toward a modern, lightly rustic approach. The beans soak in a mild brine with a pinch of baking soda, a technique that shortens cooking time and encourages a tender, creamy center without broken skins. Smoked pork ribs and sausage bring character while staying in balance with the vegetables, so the stew tastes rich but not heavy. Instead of a flour roux, the long simmer and the natural starch from beans and potatoes give body, which keeps the dish gluten-free as long as the sausage and seasoning blend do not contain wheat.

This approach suits a busy kitchen that welcomes make-ahead dishes. The finished stew rests well overnight in the refrigerator; flavors settle, the broth deepens, and reheating the next day often produces a bowl that tastes even more rounded than it did straight from the stove. Many cooks prepare a full pot with the clear aim of serving it twice, perhaps with bread and pickled vegetables on day one, then with a simple green salad or polenta on day two.

At the table, varivo od graha speaks quietly rather than trying to impress. It delivers warmth, substance, and a sense of continuity with older kitchen habits: soaking beans the night before, using modest cuts of smoked meat, stretching simple ingredients into a meal that can satisfy a family. This recipe keeps that core character while weaving in a few test-kitchen details—careful seasoning, attention to texture, and clear timings—that help a home cook reach a dependable, flavorful result every time.