Hemsedal

Hemsedal is a municipality in the former Buskerud county of Norway, situated within the traditional region of Hallingdal. Its administrative centre is the village of Trøym. The municipality extends along Norwegian National Road 52, approximately 220 km northwest of Oslo and 273 km from Bergen. Population figures have fluctuated over time: an estimated 1 775 inhabitants were recorded in 1845, a decline to 1 358 by 1920 preceded a subsequent period of growth, reflecting shifts in local economy and transportation.

The valley now known as Hemsedal first emerged as an independent municipality in 1897, when it was separated from Gol. The Old Norse name Hemsudalr combines dalr, meaning “valley,” with the genitive of the river name Hemsa (modern Hemsil). Scholarly debate has considered whether Hemsa derives from Old Norse hemsa, hefnsa or hofn, terms associated with pasture, reflecting the valley’s longstanding use for summer grazing. A modern Norwegian word for a bed built into a small loft, hems, takes its name from this valley, underlining its cultural influence on the national lexicon.

Early ecclesiastical architecture in Hemsedal was marked by the stave church at Kyrkjebøen, believed to date from between 1207 and 1224. The church appears in Papal nuncios’ accounts of tithe collection under the name Ecclesia Aamsodal between 1282 and 1324, and in 1327 as Skodvinar Kirkja i Hemsudali, reflecting alternate farm names Skodvin and Skadengård. That structure stood until 1882, when it was dismantled in favour of a new wooden church designed by Johannes Henrik Nissen. The replacement, Hemsedal Church, seats 500 and features an organ built by Olsen & Jørgensens orgelfabrikk in 1888 and restored in 1976; it belongs to the Hallingdal deanery within the Diocese of Tunsberg.

Agriculture formed the foundation of Hemsedal’s economy for centuries. Farms were scattered along the valley floor and lower slopes beside the river, often small or medium in size. High altitude and limited lowland pasture dictated a focus on livestock and dairy production, with summer shielings on upland pasture essential to supplement valley grazing. A 1647 tax cadastre recorded a single full‐tax farm, 24 half‐tax liabilities, and some disused holdings, with ancillary untaxed enterprises. At that time the population numbered roughly 400. Growth persisted into the mid-19th century, but the arrival of modern transport first aided, then undermined, local prosperity.

The latter half of the 19th century saw ambition for Hemsedal to become a principal thoroughfare to Western Norway. A road through the valley facilitated early visitor traffic and prompted the completion in 1905 of Skogstad Hotell, the village’s first accommodation establishment. However, the opening of the Bergen Railway in 1909 redirected primary transit through upper Hallingdal, and Hemsedal reverted to a more secluded status until tourism reasserted itself in the mid-20th century.

In 1939 a local tourist agency envisioned ski lift infrastructure, but the first lift did not materialize until 1959, when Fossheim Pensjonat installed the Tottenheisen, a 350-metre surface lift serving the Tottenløypa piste behind Ulsåk. That lift was dismantled in 1961, but the same year marked the inauguration of Hemsedal Skisenter at Holdeskaret. Subsequent decades saw systematic development: the Vangen Pensjonat and Lykkjaheim Pensjonat inns opened in 1947 and 1953 respectively, and in the early 1980s, a series of enterprises aimed at winter tourism emerged. In 1983 the first chairlift, Olaheisen, commenced operation.

Tourism now underpins much of Hemsedal’s economy. More than half of visitors arrive from abroad, drawn principally by winter sports and increasingly by summer recreation. Hemsedal Skisenter ranks as Norway’s second-largest ski resort, offering 44 km of slopes and a vertical drop of 810 m from its highest point at 1 500 m above sea level. Pistes are groomed and varied in difficulty, descending to the base area and even into the village centre, where a complimentary shuttle bus runs every 20 minutes. A snowboard and terrain park, regarded as among Europe’s finest, provides half pipes, jumps, rails and dedicated zones for beginners. Cross-country skiing, dog sledding, snowmobiling, ice climbing and winter via ferrata complement alpine skiing. In Grøndalen, Solheisen Skisenter features three lifts and seven runs suited to families and off-piste enthusiasts.

During summer, Hemsedal’s terrain supports hiking, mountain biking and fishing. The Topp 20 program catalogues 20 marked peak hikes graded by difficulty, ranging from one-hour excursions to day-long traverses; maps and guides are available locally. Mountain bike routes extend for 240 km, following a similar grading system. The Hemsil river hosts one of Norway’s foremost fly-fishing venues, with a season from late May to mid-September; anglers require permits obtainable at the tourist office, sports shops, supermarkets, campgrounds and a local petrol station. Fishing rights encompass river zones and eighteen lakes.

Hemsedal lies amid high mountains reminiscent of the Alps, with steep outcrops, waterfalls and glacially formed basins. Noteworthy landmarks include Skogshorn in Lykkja, accessible via a marked summer track; Rjukandefossen at Tuv, a double waterfall dropping 18 m through a narrow ravine alongside a suspension bridge; and Hydnefossen near Torsetstølane, which plunges 140 m from Veslehorn. The valley also hosts cultural sites such as Hemsedal Bygdatun at Ulsåk, a restored 1730 courtyard museum offering guided summer tours, and Ulsåkstølen, a traditional summer farm where visitors can observe livestock and sample farm products; in winter it functions as a café for cross-country skiers. Hydalen in Grøndalen, designated a nature reserve, features rich flora and fauna across varied terrain.

First recorded visitors included polar explorer Fritjof Nansen, who stayed at Bjøberg Fjellstue in 1898. Contemporary transport options connect Hemsedal to major urban centres. Road travel along Rv 52 from Oslo requires approximately three hours, while journeys from Bergen take about four hours. Year-round bus service by Nettbuss links Oslo and Bergen to Hemsedal via routes Sogn og Fjordane Ekspressen (170) and Hallingbussen (175); from Bergen, Sognebussen or Øst Vestekspressen reach Håbakken near Lærdal, with onward connection by express bus. In winter, direct airport transfer buses run from Oslo’s Gardermoen on Fridays and Sundays. Rail passengers may travel to Gol—three hours from Oslo, four from Bergen—then transfer by bus for the final 40 minutes to Hemsedal.

Within the municipality, free winter shuttle buses operate between town and ski lift base stations. A taxi network provides all-season service at higher rates, and walking routes along the riverbank offer pedestrian access to nearby sites. Summer visitors benefit from complimentary parking throughout the valley, except for fees at Gravset, the principal cross-country area in winter.

Retail options in the town centre include specialist outlets for sporting equipment and outdoor gear. Hemsedal Sport and Totten Sport stock ski, snowboard, fishing and hiking gear; Skandinavisk Høyfjellsutstyr offers mountain equipment; Finbeck & Fia retails clothing and footwear; Stugu Husflid presents regional handicrafts; and Elle Melle supplies Norwegian fashion, home décor and toys.

Culinary services span mountain and village settings. On slopes, Skistua restaurant provides a la carte dining; Skartnuten Hotel features cuisine by celebrated chef Geir Skeie; Fjellkafeen and Hollvin restaurant serve guests near lifts; and Lodgen Spiseri and Skigaarden’s three venues cater to diverse tastes. In the centre, establishments such as Kjøkken Kroken, Hemsedal Café, Peppes Pizza, Elmas Café, Hemsedal Burger and Yama Sushi accommodate visitors. Harahorn Hotel in Grøndalen offers fine-dining experiences. Private catering and in-cabin chef services complement these options.

Après-ski culture forms an integral aspect of Hemsedal’s winter appeal. Skistua hosts live-band events beginning at 16:00 on slopes, while Hemsedal Café opens in town at 19:00; both outlets welcome early arrivals. Alcohol sales adhere to Norwegian regulation: supermarkets sell beer on weekdays from 08:00 to 20:00 and Saturdays until 18:00, with no Sunday sales. Wine and spirits are available at the municipal Vinmonopol adjacent to Spar supermarket, approximately 100 m from the tourist office.

Bordered to the north by Vang and Vestre Slidre municipalities in the former Oppland county, to the east by Nord-Aurdal and Gol, to the south by Ål and Hol, and to the west by Lærdal in Vestland county, Hemsedal encompasses varied topography and waterways, including Juklevatnet lake. Its position between Norway’s two largest cities and its combination of alpine scenery, year-round recreational infrastructure and cultural heritage sites underpin its status as a notable destination.

Since its establishment as a separate municipality in 1897, Hemsedal has transitioned from an agrarian society reliant on summer shielings and livestock to a diversified economy centered on tourism. The spoke-and-wheel development of ski lifts, hospitality venues and service enterprises in the latter half of the twentieth century facilitated a resurgence in population and local prosperity. Summer programs for hiking, biking and fishing have expanded the visitor season, distributing economic benefits more evenly through the year.

Hemsedal’s evolution illustrates the interplay of geography, infrastructure and economic strategy. High-altitude terrain once circumscribed agricultural productivity but now defines the municipality’s appeal as a recreation hub. Road and rail developments first bypassed, then reconnected the valley to national and international travel networks. Heritage assets such as medieval stave church origins and traditional farms complement modern leisure facilities.

In conclusion, Hemsedal exemplifies a Norwegian mountain community that has adapted to shifting transportation corridors, market demands and climatic attractions. Its administrative centre at Trøym anchors a municipality that balances conservation of historical and natural resources with ongoing expansion of sports and tourism infrastructure. The varied activities—ranging from alpine skiing and snowboarding in winter to hiking, biking and fishing in summer—reflect a comprehensive approach to rural development, ensuring that Hemsedal remains both a repository of local tradition and a dynamic destination for domestic and international visitors.