Falls Creek

Falls Creek is a tiny year-round Alpine village with a very small permanent community. In fact, only about 200 people live there full-time in summer, but this number swells dramatically each winter: the resort can host up to around 5,600 residents at peak season. This surge reflects the village’s 4,500 accommodation beds and winter lodgings. Consequently, its economy is driven almost entirely by tourism. A government report notes Falls Creek “contributes significantly to the economy of the region” and generates substantial seasonal employment. In a typical (pre-pandemic) year, Falls Creek’s total tourism revenue has been about AU$12 million. There is only a small permanent population (including the pupils of its year-round primary school), so the local economy revolves around ski lodges, restaurants and rental accommodation. At the height of winter the resort buzzes with thousands of skiers and boarders; in summer it settles into a quieter rhythm of hikers and mountain bikers.

Falls Creek lies deep in the Victorian Alps of south-eastern Australia. The village sits within the Alpine National Park, roughly 350 km northeast of Melbourne (about a 5‑to‑6‑hour drive). It occupies a high plateau at around 1,600 m above sea level (base elevation 1,500 m, top lift 1,780 m). The nearest small town is Mount Beauty, about 30 km away. Geographically, Falls Creek is part of the Hume region of Victoria and is surrounded by rugged mountain ranges. Snowy plains and alpine forests border the resort. The climate is cold and snowy for many months: it is classified as a cold oceanic/subpolar zone, with short cool summers and very snowy winters. Falls Creek averages roughly four metres of snowfall each winter, keeping ski slopes open typically from June to September. Summer days are mild, often clear and sunny, but the nights can still be quite cool. In short, Falls Creek’s setting is a true high-mountain environment on the Australian continent, with pine forests and frozen lakes giving way to wide snowfields in winter.

Falls Creek’s origins lie in the post-war era of the mid-20th century. After World War II and the construction of the nearby Kiewa hydroelectric project, sightseers and servicemen began to ski the high country. In 1948 engineers built the first crude ski hut there. A rope tow was installed by 1951, and by 1957 Falls Creek boasted Australia’s first chairlift. The “village” grew slowly: a post office opened in June 1958, marking its formal recognition. For decades thereafter Falls Creek was essentially summer cattle country, used for grazing during warm months. That changed in the early 2000s when grazing was finally banned to protect the delicate alpine environment. Since then the resort’s profile has risen. A significant turning point came in 2019, when the global ski operator Vail Resorts (known for owning Perisher in New South Wales) purchased Falls Creek (with Mt. Hotham) for around AU$174 million. Today, though Falls Creek has a modern ski village feel, some early vestiges remain (for example a small museum and the “heritage huts” below the slopes) that recall its pioneer days of huts and rope tows.

The culture of Falls Creek is very much that of an alpine ski village. The predominant language is English, and the community is predominantly made up of Australians (often Victorians who work as ski instructors and resort staff). The “ski bum” lifestyle is tempered by family life – the village even operates a primary school year-round. In winter the pace is focused on the mountain, but after-dark the scene is lively: the village center has bars and a handful of nightclubs to entertain skiers and snowboarders. Visitors often sense a friendly, unpretentious atmosphere; local Aussies mix with international visitors who come for the powder. Community traditions include year-end celebrations and ski races. Two signature events illustrate the vibe: the Kangaroo Hoppet is a 42 km cross-country ski marathon held each August, attracting thousands of skiers from Australia and abroad. In early September, the resort hosts “Stylewars” – a slopestyle snowboarding competition that brings Australian and international riders to its terrain parks. Both events create a festive buzz in the village. In summer the atmosphere changes: it becomes very quiet by comparison, with visitors trading skis for hiking boots and bikes. All told, Falls Creek feels like a down-to-earth mountain community, with an outdoor-active culture and a short but vibrant tourist season.

By far the main attraction at Falls Creek is its mountain terrain itself. The resort boasts about 76 ski trails serviced by 16 lifts. These ranges of groomed slopes (from gentle beginner runs up to steep black runs) draw skiers of all abilities. In winter, simply skiing or snowboarding on Falls Creek’s runs – which include a 3 km long trail called “Wishing Well” – is the core experience. For many visitors this is what Falls Creek is all about. In summer months, the frozen slopes melt into a different landscape: Falls Creek has become known for its mountain bike park, which is highly rated. The resort offers dozens of kilometres of bike trails winding through the alpine forest. In fact, the official resorts brochures call Falls Creek an “outdoor mecca” for summer sports, with opportunities for hiking, trail running and cycling around Rocky Valley Lake and nearby ridges. Other attractions include the historic cattlemen’s huts (such as Wallace’s Hut and Johanna’s Hut) at the base of Mt McKay – remnants of the old grazing era where visitors can step back into mid-19th century alpine life. In the village itself, the Falls Creek Alpine Resort complex – a ski-in/ski-out collection of hotels, lodges and shops – is often the hub of activity. The local cross-country trails (65 km of groomed loops around the village and nearby peaks) are world-class, so many visitors try cross-country skiing or snowshoeing here. In short, Falls Creek’s must-sees are its own snowfields in winter and its hiking/mountain-biking trails in summer – essentially, the mountainscape is the attraction.

Reaching Falls Creek requires some planning. The nearest major airport is Albury (in southern New South Wales, about 130 km away), but many visitors fly into Melbourne (Tullamarine Airport) and then drive or take a coach to the resort. The road journey from Melbourne is about 350 km (roughly 5–6 hours by car) via the Hume Freeway and Alpine Road. The village itself is accessed by Bogong High Plains Road from the town of Mount Beauty. Importantly, this high mountain road is open year-round, but in winter visitors must carry and use snow chains in conditions of ice or deep snow. In fact, village roads in Falls Creek are entirely car-free for most of the ski season (the resort reported that in winter its village roads were closed to vehicles for 93 days in 2022), meaning people park at the base and ski or walk into the village. A free shuttle bus operates on icy days to help transport people to lodges. Within the village, everything is walkable or skiable. (Notably, in summer both the Bogong High Plains Road from Omeo and the Bogong Road are popular with cyclists, with events like the annual Peaks Challenge descending on the area.) Basic visitor tips: Falls Creek uses Australian dollars and English is spoken everywhere. The dress code in winter is layered outdoor gear; in summer it can be cool on the hill at night. Common-sense mountain safety applies: stay on marked trails in winter, watch for weather changes, and during summer use sun protection. Mobile service is patchy at highest elevations, so plan ahead. Overall, visitors should be aware that Falls Creek is remote and high-altitude – it’s wise to allow extra travel time in winter and to prepare for cold conditions.