Beirut

Beirut occupies a narrow spur of land jutting into the eastern Mediterranean, its shoreline carved by rocky coves, sandy stretches and sheer cliffs. The city has borne human presence for more than five millennia, its layered past evident in Roman baths, Ottoman mansions and modern high-rises. Today, Greater Beirut houses roughly 2.5 million people—just under half of Lebanon’s population—making it the fourth-largest urban area in the Levant and the sixteenth in the Arab world. As the nation’s seat of government and principal port, the city remains central to Lebanon’s economy and cultural life.

The city proper extends over an 18 km² governorate, while its metropolitan footprint covers some 67 km². Two hills—Al-Ashrafieh to the east and Al-Musaytibah to the west—frame a roughly triangular plan. From Raouché in the southwest to Saint George Bay in the north, coastal breezes temper a hot-summer Mediterranean climate, marked by mild, rainy winters and long, humid summers. Annual rainfall averages 825 mm, mostly between October and April; frost never occurs on the peninsula, and snow is confined to high-altitude suburbs. Afternoon winds blow inland from the sea, reversing at night.

Administratively, Beirut divides into twelve quarters—Achrafieh, Bachoura, Dar Mreisse, Mazraa (including Badaro), Medawar (with Mar Mikhaël), Minet El Hosn, Moussaitbeh (and Ramlet al-Baida), Port, Ras Beirut, Rmeil, Saifi and Zuqaq al-Blat. These break further into 59 sectors. Badaro, within the “green district,” adjoins Beirut Hippodrome and the Pine Forest. Its tree-lined streets host corner groceries and bakeries alongside bohemian cafés and a nightlife that draws both expatriates and long-standing residents.

To the south lie Chiyah and Ghobeiry; within the latter are Bir Hassan, Jnah and Ouzai. Haret Hreik, Burj al-Barajneh, Laylake-Mreijeh, Hay al-Sillum and Hadath lie beyond. Farther east, Burj Hammoud, Sin el Fil, Dekwane and Mkalles extend toward the mountains, with Hazmiyeh on the city’s fringe. Within Beirut proper sits the Mar Elias camp; beyond its limits are Bourj el-Barajneh and Shatila, two of Lebanon’s twelve official Palestinian camps. Sabra, adjacent to Shatila, remains unregistered; its narrow lanes witnessed a massacre during the civil war.

No census since 1932 leaves precise population figures uncertain. Estimates for the city proper range from about 940 000 to 1.3 million; Greater Beirut may exceed two million. A 2014 survey of religious affiliation found approximately 45 percent Sunni Muslim, 16 percent Shia Muslim and 36 percent Christian, with other faiths accounting for the remainder. Those proportions shift when considering voter registration: Armenian Orthodox (9.6 percent), Greek Orthodox (8.5 percent), Maronite Catholics and Melkite Greek Catholics together make up over ten percent. The civil war segmented the city along sectarian lines—east Beirut predominantly Christian, west mainly Sunni—but migration in recent years has blurred those boundaries.

At its core lies the Beirut Central District (BCD), an area of just under 5 million m², over half of which serves residential purposes. Before 1975, this precinct was the city’s historic and commercial heart, its winding souks and arcaded streets lined with Ottoman and French-mandate façades. The war’s devastation prompted the formation of Solidere, a public-private partnership led by future prime minister Rafic Hariri, to rebuild the district. Reconstruction restored government ministries, financial institutions and global firms to the area. More than 60 gardens and plazas—totaling 39 hectares—connect restored landmarks and new waterfront promenades.

Solidere’s methods drew criticism. Expropriations often occurred at below-market rates, compensated partially with company shares. Strictures on private renovation obliged owners to sell. Public spaces promised at the outset—such as an archaeological museum and the Garden of Forgiveness—remain incomplete. Many heritage buildings fell to unapproved demolitions, erasing some of the last medieval and Ottoman relics. Critics note that luxury shops and high-end dining replaced locally owned boutiques, and that the district now operates under private security rather than municipal police. Large sectors stand empty by day, particularly near the parliament at Nejmeh Square, where a strong military presence deters visitors.

Beyond governance and real estate, Beirut’s economy rests on banking, tourism and services. Under the French mandate after World War I, investments bolstered the city’s role as a regional financial link. An Open Door Policy invited foreign capital; by the 1920s, four of Beirut’s five largest banks were French-owned. Lebanon’s free exchange system, banking-secrecy laws and attractive interest rates drew Arab wealth—petrodollars during the 1960s oil boom funneled into local construction, industry and commerce. The capital hosts the Banque du Liban, the Beirut Stock Exchange, Middle East Airlines’ headquarters, the UN Economic and Social Commission for Western Asia, and the Union of Arab Banks.

Tourism—once the pillar of the local economy—continues to attract both Lebanese expatriates and international visitors. Before 1975, guidebooks dubbed Beirut “the Paris of the Middle East.” In the 2000s, magazines and travel indices ranked the city among the world’s best: The New York Times placed it first on a 2009 list of 44 destinations; Condé Nast Traveller named it the Middle East’s leading city in 2012. Visitor spending reached $6.5 billion in 2011. In 2014, Beirut joined the New 7 Wonders of Cities. The Corniche, a 4.8 km promenade from Saint George Bay to Avenue de Paris, remains a favored waterfront walk. Raouché’s limestone cliffs, crowned by high-rise apartments, frame the offshore rock stacks visible at sunset.

The souks of the Central District reopened after reconstruction, restoring a medieval network of vaulted arcades with over 200 shops. Annual events—Beirut Marathon, Fête de la Musique, Beirut Jazz Festival—activate public spaces. Gemmayzeh, east of the BCD, retains early-20th-century apartment blocks along Rue Gouraud. Trendy bars and small-plate restaurants occupy restored townhouses. Hamra Street, a long cobblestone artery linking downtown to Raouché, supports bookstores, banks and a student-driven nightlife near the American University of Beirut’s red-roofed campus. In recent years, Hamra has seen renewed investment in pubs and cafes.

Since 2009, medical tourism emerged as a growth sector. Clinics collaborate with luxury hotels to offer surgery and recuperation packages. Cosmetic procedures, dental care and advanced operations attract patients from neighboring Arab states and beyond. By 2012, Beirut’s Clemenceau Medical Center ranked among the top ten hospitals worldwide for medical tourism.

Beirut’s transport network centers on Rafic Hariri International Airport in the southern suburbs and the Port of Beirut on the coast. Highway links run east through the Beqaa Valley to Damascus. Public buses—managed by the Railway and Public Transportation Authority—depart from Charles Helou Station; private carriers supplement them. In 2012, the transport ministry acquired 250 new buses to ease congestion. A bike-sharing program launched in 2017.

Daily life in Beirut reflects cultural layering. Arabic predominates, but French and English remain common. A polite “bonjour” at a café door or “merci” when declined can ease transactions. Dress adapts to setting: casual shorts suit summer streets, but modest attire proves wise at religious sites. Nightlife knows no curfew; bars and clubs typically wind down between 2 a.m. and 4:30 a.m. Beirut’s own brews—Almaza, Laziza and microbrews such as 961 Beer or LB Beer—join imported wines and spirits.

Photography requires discretion. Military and security installations stand off-limits, and photographing southern suburbs risks unwanted attention. Travelers are advised to seek permission or keep cameras concealed. Visits to Palestinian camps gain depth with a local guide familiar with logistics.

Despite recurring conflict—civil war, the 2006 hostilities and the 2020 port explosion—Beirut continually reshapes itself. In its layers of limestone and concrete, one finds traces of ancient empires, colonial theaters and cosmopolitan cafés. Its climatic moderation, diverse neighborhoods and open-air promenades attest to a coastal city that persists beyond upheaval. The result is a place defined not by a single era or identity but by an ongoing dialogue between past and present, hardship and renewal.