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In much of Croatia, the slow turn of a whole pig over embers signals a serious celebration. Odojak na ražnju, spit-roasted suckling pig, appears for major family gatherings, saints’ days, village feasts, and winter holidays, sharing the table with lamb, turkey, and hearty side dishes. In Zagreb, central Croatia, Slavonia, and parts of Istria, odojak often anchors Christmas and New Year menus, carved while still steaming beside bowls of potatoes and winter salads.
The dish itself is straightforward in concept: a young piglet, cleaned and secured to a long metal spit, turns for hours in front of hardwood embers until the skin turns glassy and blistered while the meat stays juicy and pale. Traditional recipes keep the seasoning pared back. Many cooks rely almost entirely on sea salt, often around two percent of the pig’s weight, rubbed inside the cavity and over the skin before roasting. Some add garlic or a sprig or two of rosemary to the cavity, while a simple mixture of water and oil, or oil and vinegar, provides a light basting during the long roast.
The flavor profile reflects that restraint. Properly cooked odojak tastes rich yet delicate, with a faint sweetness from the young meat and a subtle smokiness from the wood. The crackling should shatter under the knife, sending small, crisp shards across the cutting board. Beneath it, a thin layer of fat bastes the leaner layers, so the slices on the platter show pale meat, a translucent ribbon of fat, and a deep golden shell of skin. The aroma blends rendered pork fat, wood smoke, and the sharp edge of garlic from the cavity.
Texture depends on patient fire management more than elaborate marinades. Traditional instructions call for the pig to sit 30–50 cm above the hearth, with most of the fire built slightly to the side. Coals then slide under the pig once the skin has warmed, so heat remains steady rather than fierce. The goal is gradual rendering. If the fire runs too hot, the skin scorches before the shoulder and ham finish cooking. If it runs too cool, the skin bubbles unevenly and the interior stays flabby.
This version keeps the classic Croatian approach but folds in a few test-kitchen refinements. A measured dry brine with fine sea salt seasons the meat all the way to the bone during an overnight rest. A light garlic-and-rosemary paste goes inside the cavity rather than on the skin, so the exterior still crisps cleanly. A simple basting mix of water, white wine, and oil protects the crackling when needed, while repeated pricking of the skin helps fat escape and keeps the surface thin and brittle.
The method assumes access to an outdoor rotisserie, hardwood for the fire, and a food-safe thermometer. For cooks who prefer a scaled-down version, many of the same principles apply to oven-roasted piglet legs or ribs, a common adaptation in Croatian home kitchens. Either way, odojak remains a dish that turns an ordinary day into an event: guests gather around the hearth, comment on the color of the skin, and taste the first crackling straight from the spit.
16
servings60
minutes240
minutes950
kcalThis odojak recipe sets out a classic Croatian method for spit-roasting a whole suckling pig with modern precision. A cleaned piglet, around 8–10 kg, is dry-brined overnight with fine sea salt, lightly scented inside with garlic and rosemary, then mounted securely on a rotisserie spit. The pig roasts 3½–4½ hours in front of hardwood embers, with careful control of distance and fire intensity, until the meat reaches safe temperature and the skin turns evenly crisp and deep golden. A simple water–wine–oil basting mix helps manage hot spots and prevents scorching. The result is tender, juicy slices of pork with brittle crackling, ideal for serving at holidays and large gatherings alongside roast potatoes, bitter greens, and bright salads.
Whole suckling pig, 8–10 kg (cleaned, head and skin on) — young piglet suitable for roasting; ask the butcher to clean thoroughly and remove bristles.
Fine sea salt, 160–200 g — roughly 2% of pig’s weight for effective dry brining and seasoning.
Freshly ground black pepper, 1–2 tbsp (optional) — adds gentle heat; traditional versions often skip pepper.
Fresh garlic, 8–10 cloves, crushed — for rubbing inside the cavity, giving a mild aroma rather than a strong surface flavor.
Fresh rosemary, 3–4 sprigs — tucked into the cavity during roasting; thyme can stand in if rosemary is unavailable.
Pork lard or neutral oil, 60 ml (¼ cup) — for an initial light rub on the skin and to support basting if needed.
Water, 500 ml (2 cups) — base for a light, protective basting liquid.
Dry white wine or apple cider vinegar, 120 ml (½ cup) — adds a faint tang and helps balance richness; vinegar gives a sharper edge.
Neutral oil or melted lard, 60 ml (¼ cup) — helps the basting liquid cling to the skin.
Fine sea salt, 1 tsp — seasons the basting mix lightly.
Fresh rosemary, 1–2 small sprigs — tied to a long wooden spoon or branch for brushing the pig during roasting.
Roast or baked potatoes, 2½–3 kg — wedges or halves roasted in pork fat or oil.
Green salad or cabbage slaw, 1 large bowl — offers freshness and acidity.
Spring onions, 2 bunches — served raw alongside the meat.
Lemon wedges, 4–6 — for squeezing over crackling and meat at the table.
Bread or mlinci (Croatian flatbread), plenty — for soaking up juices.
Dry the pig thoroughly. Pat the skin and cavity dry with clean towels. Remove any remaining bristles with a sharp knife or kitchen torch.
Weigh and salt. Weigh the pig and calculate 2% of that weight for the salt (for a 9 kg pig, use about 180 g). Mix salt and pepper, if using.
Season the cavity. Rub a portion of the salt mixture inside the cavity, focusing on the shoulders and hams. Distribute crushed garlic and rosemary sprigs inside.
Secure the cavity. Close the belly opening with butcher’s twine or stainless kitchen wire so the fillings stay in place during roasting.
Season the skin. Rub the remaining salt over the entire exterior, working it into folds around the legs and neck. Avoid leaving visible clumps.
Rest the pig. Place the pig uncovered on a tray in a cold refrigerator for 8–12 hours. This rest seasons the meat and dries the skin for better crackling.
Bring to cool room temperature. Remove the pig from the refrigerator 60–90 minutes before roasting so the chill fades from the surface.
Thread the spit. Slide the rotisserie spit through the mouth or neck opening and along the spine, exiting near the rear. Center the pig so weight balances evenly.
Tie securely. Wire or tie the snout, shoulders, and hams tightly to the spit with butcher’s wire so the carcass cannot slip while turning. Check both ends for play.
Light the fire. Build a hardwood fire (oak, beech, hornbeam, or similar) in a long trench or hearth parallel to the spit position. Burn the wood down until a deep bed of embers forms along the length of the pig.
Set spit height and distance. Position the spit so the pig sits about 35–45 cm above the ground, with the embers initially slightly to the side rather than directly under the pig.
Begin rotation. Start turning the spit at a steady, even pace. For the first 30–45 minutes, keep most embers to the side to warm the skin slowly without browning.
Prepare basting mix. While the pig warms, whisk water, wine or vinegar, oil, salt, and a rosemary sprig in a metal jug or saucepan. Keep near the fire so it stays warm.
Add embers under the pig. After the initial warming phase, shovel a thin layer of embers under the pig, keeping a larger mass still to the side. Continue rotating without interruption.
Baste lightly. Once the skin turns pale yellow and looks slightly taut, brush a thin layer of the basting mix over any areas that color faster than others. Avoid soaking the surface.
Maintain steady heat. Through the next 2–3 hours, feed the fire gradually at the sides and slide fresh embers under the pig as older ones fade. The skin should shift from pale to light golden, with occasional blisters forming.
Prick the skin. Around the 90-minute mark, use a clean fork or thin skewer to prick the skin in fatty areas such as the shoulders and hams. This lets fat escape and keeps the crackling thin rather than leathery.
Rotate and observe. Keep turning at a constant rhythm. If one side browns deeper than the rest, move embers away from that area or tilt the spit slightly to give it a cooler zone.
Check internal temperature. After about 3 hours total roasting time, insert a thermometer into the thickest part of the shoulder and ham, avoiding bone. Aim for at least 72–75°C (162–167°F) in both spots for safe pork.
Color the skin. When the pig approaches target temperature, allow a slightly stronger ember bed under the pig for 15–25 minutes to deepen color and crispness. Baste only if areas threaten to char.
Confirm doneness. Check temperature once more. Juices at the thigh joint should run clear rather than pink when pierced.
Rest off the fire. Lift the spit away from the heat and suspend it in a warm, draft-free spot for 20–30 minutes. This rest lets juices settle and keeps the skin crisp.
Carve on the spit. Bring the pig on its spit to a sturdy carving table. Slice off crackling in wide panels, then carve meat from shoulders, loins, and hams into generous slices or chunks.
Serve immediately. Arrange meat and crackling on warm platters, spoon over a little of the collected fat and juices, and send to the table with potatoes, salad, and bread.
Approximate values for one of 16 servings, based on a mix of lean and fatty meat plus some crackling from a roast suckling pig:
| Nutrient | Approximate Amount per Serving |
|---|---|
| Calories | ~950 kcal |
| Carbohydrates | ~0–2 g |
| Protein | ~55–65 g |
| Fat | ~75–85 g |
| Fiber | 0 g |
| Sodium | ~1200–1500 mg |
| Key Allergens | Pork meat (no gluten, dairy, eggs, nuts, or soy in the base recipe) |
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