AIT BEN HADDOU – The City Of Of Mud And Straw

Tucked down in the center of Morocco, the historic city of Ait Ben Haddou is evidence of architectural creativity and human tenacity. Established in 757, this intriguing city is named for Ben-Hadou, the man who founded it; his tomb lies behind the vast maze of straw and mud buildings.

The development of Ait Ben Haddou was much influenced by its strategic position at the junction of the ancient Sahara trade route. Merchants followed this path for millennia, delivering a wide range of goods—including slaves and gold—to the fabled city of Timbuktu in Western Saharan Africa. The city’s prominence as a trade center helped to explain its architectural distinctiveness and supported its expansion.

A few steadfast families still live in the thousand-year-old mud houses while most of the people of the city have chosen the conveniences of modern living across the river. With a meandering river or stream running across the vast riverbed below, the city itself grips to the slopes of a small hill.

There is striking architectural homogeneity in the city. While their facades show a complex mix of clay and straw, every building inside the fortified walls is built of mud bricks. Towering towers at every corner strengthen these strong walls, which encircle the city in a protective embrace and their dramatic forms accentuate the beauty of the surroundings.

Ait Ben Haddou was listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1987 under appreciation of its historical and cultural value. This esteemed title signaled a sea change in the city’s future. Captivated by the unvarnished beauty of the city, Hollywood director David Lean decided to set his epic film, “Lawrence of Arabia,” released in 1962, against it.

Lean chose to shoot in Ait Ben Haddou not just for appearances. He dreamed of the movie acting as a spark to protect the city from the forces of time. Through highlighting its beauty on the silver screen, he aimed to increase awareness and force authorities to fund its upkeep. His efforts paid off, generating a tsunami of ongoing repair projects still today.

Although the front half of the city now exhibits a well-preserved state, the other buildings are still under painstaking repair. Lean’s picture not only brought this magical city to a worldwide audience but also opened doors for other directors to follow suit.

Since then, Ait Ben Haddou has graced many cinematic masterpieces including “The Jewel of the Nile” (1985), “The Living Daylights” (1987), “Kundun” (1997), “The Mummy” (1999), “Gladiator” (2000), and “Alexander” ( 2004). A surge in tourism driven by this cinematic legacy has brought many people to discover the city’s maze-like streets and explore its rich past.