Cuenca

The historic district, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is most visited by visitors. It is located between the river Tomebamba and the street Gran Colombia to the north, General Torres to the west, and Hermano Miguel to the east. This region is simple to traverse due to its compactness, grid-like structure, and several easily visible monuments. Outside of this location, the city might be perplexing due to the city’s plethora of tiny colonial lanes and identical structures.

Cuenca’s major fiestas occur at the “Mass of Children,” which is held on the day of the Arrival of Kings (January 6 – Epiphany Day), or during the city’s independence celebration (November 3), during which processions, cultural shows, and dances are planned. The adjacent Caar farm (in the same county) has the largest Inca ruins in Ecuador.

Santa Ana de los cuatro ros de Cuenca is the full name of Cuenca. The major aspects of the city’s environment are also the basis of its name; cuatros rios means “four rivers” in Spanish and cuencameans “basin,” and the city is located in a basin formed by a confluence of rivers. In order of significance, these rivers are the Tomebamba (called after the Cañari civilization), Yanuncay, Tarqui, and Machangara. The first three of these rivers flow from the Páramo of Parque Nacional Cajas, which is located west of the city. The watershed of the Amazon River includes these four rivers. Indeed, the residents are quite proud of their waterways.

Cuenca is a city with a culture that spans over a century or more. Walking around Cuenca, you will observe contemporary buildings, high-speed internet, and wireless communications, as well as people washing their clothes in the river while conversing on mobile phones. Many contemporary cars may be seen as residents transport their cows, horses, and donkeys to graze beside rivers and parks. People milking their goats and transporting milk into town on donkeys may be seen around the marketplaces. This is the allure of Cuenca, a culture that incorporates decades of customs and behaviors.

Construction of the Tranvía started in mid-February 2013. (tram). Work on the rapid transit system will continue through the end of 2014, with the system being fully operational in early 2015. The Tranvía is intended to reduce traffic congestion and pollution in Cuenca, notably in the Historic District.

Cuenca is a city that can easily navigated on foot. Over the last year, the city has upgraded kilometers of walkways, making the city even more pedestrian-friendly. Just keep an eye out for the drivers, since they will not keep an eye out for you. The Ecuadorian government is striving to reduce traffic congestion, but it will take time and education.

According to the Köppen climate classification, Cuenca has a subtropical highland climate (Cfb). Cuenca, like the rest of the Ecuadorian Andes, has a year-round moderate climate. Days are often warm, while evenings are chilly enough to need sweaters or coats. The daily average temperature is 14.7 °C (58.5 °F). There are two seasons in the year: wet and dry. The dry season, with occasional variations, lasts from June to December. The rainy season, which is distinguished by bright sunny mornings and afternoon rains, lasts from January through May. The most rain falls during the invierno (wet season) months of March, April, and May.

Cuenca, the seat of the province of Azuay, is situated in the Austro or southern area of Ecuador, in the Andes sierra. It is about 9 hours south of Quito and 4 hours east of Guayaquil. The city is located at an elevation of 2,350 to 2,550 meters (7,710 to 8,370 ft) above sea level.

The four rivers of Cuenca are the city’s defining geographical characteristics, as well as the source of its name in Spanish (meaning a basin made by a confluence of rivers). In order of significance, these rivers are the Tomebamba (called after the Inca civilisation), Yanuncay, Tarqui, and Machangara. The first three of these rivers flow from the Páramo of Parque Nacional Cajas, which is located west of the city. The watershed of the Amazon River includes these four rivers. Cuenca is bordered on all sides by mountains, with passes to the west, south, and east.

Daily domestic flights are available from and to Guayaquil, Quito, and other nearby nations. Currently, Cuenca is served daily by TAME, LAN, and AeroGal. Except on Sundays, AirCuenca provides service every day.

The cost of a cab from the airport to the city’s downtown is between $2 and $3 USD.

Cuenca lies on the Pan-American highway. Buses offer connections to many cities in Ecuador. The bus system in Ecuador is well developed. Buses can be obtained every one or two hours during the day.

Loja for connections to Vilcabamba (4.5-7 h, $7.5). Be warned that the Viajeros buses to Loja do not have a working bathroom and they can take up to 7 hours (we were told at the office that it would take 4 hours and that it would only make one stop, but we stopped more than 50 times and ended up so full the bus could hardly struggle uphill). This was with Viajeros “International”.

San Luis buses run from Cuenca to Loja using the national park route and take 4.5 hours, $8. Departures at 7:45, 11:00, 16:00, 19:30 and 24:00. There is a working toilet.

Alausi. 4 hours (Transportes Alausi) Riobamba. 6 hours (Patria)

Piura, Peru: There is a new service to Piura leaving at 19:30, 21:00 and 23:00. This is a partnership between two companies, Pullman Sucre and CIFA International. It is necessary to change bus at either Machala or Huaquillas. The 19:30 and 23:00 services connect to a special sleeper seat service. The price is $12–15 USD depending on the class of service. It is a good idea to purchase your ticket a day in advance as it is not unusual for them to book out.

Tumbes, Peru: As above, plus additional departures at 13:15 and 15:00. $7 from the border.

There is a $0.10 departure fee for leaving from the bus terminal.

The tourist information center in Cuenca, known as iTur, is situated on the city’s main square (Parque Calderón) and offers a wealth of useful maps and pamphlets to assist you navigate the city while you’re there. (Mariscal Sucre, between Luis Cordero and Benigno Malo, Monday–Friday 8:00–22:00, Saturday–Sunday 8:30–13:30; tel. 07–282–1035, itur@cuenca.com.ec, website: www.cuencaecuador.com.ec) In addition, there is a satellite iTur office in the airport that is open from Monday through Wednesday from 7:30 AM to 11:00 PM, from Thursday through Friday from 7:30 AM to 11:00 PM, and on Saturday from 8:00 AM to 12:00 PM. 07-286-2203, extension 162).

Walking across the congested, congested alleys of central Cuenca is simple and frequently faster than catching a cab.

Cabs may be found anywhere and cost between $1.50 and $3 each journey. Before stepping inside the vehicle, the price should be discussed. Taxi meters are used by some cabs.

Using city buses is also not too difficult. Bus stops are often marked. Each trip costs $0.25. (exact change is required as you put coins into a machine, there is no fare collector on the bus). On CuencaTransit.com, you may obtain a user’s manual for utilizing the City buses, route maps, and an online travel planner.

MARKET / SUPERMARKET

RESTAURANTS

ENTERTAINMENT

PERSONAL CARE

CLOTHES / SHOES

TRANSPORTATION

• Christmas Parade (Pase del Niño Viajero) — Cuenca has a beautiful procession on December 24 that is regarded as Ecuador’s and possibly South America’s biggest and greatest Christmas festivity. At 10:00, the procession leaves from San Sebastian and travels along San Blas, Simón Bolivar Street, and Plaza Calderón. The parade is accompanied by thousands of musicians, and every community decks out its vehicles, horses, and other available objects with colorful emblems. Children dress up as biblical characters or in vibrant costumes. At least seven hours were spent on the procession. Thousands of people will be costumed as Joseph, Mary, the three Wise Men, angels, etc. throughout the march. This is a spectacle that must be seen.
• The New Cathedral (c 1885).
• El Sagrario (the “old cathedral”). Building work started in 1557. It is currently a museum instead of being used as a church. Recently, a restoration effort was finished, allowing several areas to display their original paint and murals. $2.

• Festival de Independencia — Cuenca’s independence is commemorated with a sizable event that lasts twice as long as the actual war. It starts in early November each year and lasts for three to four days. There are several art exhibits, artisan stalls, live performances, food vendors, and general celebrations. Bolivian, Ecuadorian, Colombian, Peruvian, and other artisanal products are on exhibit and for sale. There are several stages featuring music and performers throughout this period as well. Much more ornate exhibition booths than those that clog the streets are set up on the grounds of the art museum CIDAP, which is located at the bottom of the Escalinatas on the north bank of the river. A bit farther up the river, across from the University of Cuenca, in La Esquina des Artes, there are various artists and several merchants selling upscale food items. There are permanent businesses for artists and craftspeople in La Esquina des Artes.

• Devil’s Nose train – Located in Riobamba – Alausi, Riobamba, approximately 2.5 hours from Cuenca, the Devil’s Nose train is regarded as one of the finest railway technical achievements in the entire world. Small villages and Andean lakes are passed as this picturesque train zigzags down the steep hillside through a series of switchbacks. Cost $25.

• Sightseeing Bus. $5 for 2 hour tour of Cuenca and a visit to the Mirador de Turi (Turi viewpoint). Leaves from Parque Calderón. For one price, you can get off the bus anywhere you like and get on the next bus that comes. 

• Cuenca River Walk. Just completed at the end of 2012, the new river walk is a great place to walk, relax and enjoy the views of the city. The city of Cuenca has a vision for the river walk to someday become another San Antonio, Texas. The river walk is along the Tomebamba river that flows close to downtown. 

• Pumapungo Museum. Also known as the Central Bank Museum, the museum covers four floors and has expansive grounds with well preserved ruins. The museum has very good exhibits for those interested in the complete history of the region and city, including exhibits like the shrunken heads. 
• Ingapirca, +593-7-2217109, fax: +593-7-2217107. 9h00-17h30.

The excavated remains of Ingapirca (Kichwa: Inkapirka, meaning “Inca wall”) are located around one hour north by car or one and a half hours north by bus. In the Caar Province, the remains are close to the little village of El Tambo. The Inca temple and palace site inspired the town’s name. The largest known Inca ruins in Ecuador are located here. You can visit the Inca and Caar temples that have been unearthed at the location. The Inca empire’s northern capital was Ingapirca.

There are two distinct entry roads from the major Panamerican highway that take around 8 to 10 kilometers to travel to reach Ingapirca: (1) the north entrance from El Tambo (the recommended option); and (2) the south entrance, which is located just south of Uculoma. As you go east from the Panamerican, you pass through typical southern Andean farmland with sheep, donkeys, and llamas. There is a bus service as well as the option to hire a driver ($20–30 from Cuenca). Direct buses departing from the bus station near the Cuenca airport at 9:00 and 12:20, returning at 13:15 and 15:45, and taking 2 14 hours to get there. Take a bus to El Tambo outside of these hours (2 hours), then switch to a bus to Ingapirca (30 minutes). There is a $2.50 bus charge.

Most of the trips are offered in Spanish. Once per day, a guided tour is offered in English. If you want to visit Ingapirca on one of Ecuador’s several holidays, be sure to check the holiday calendar first. $2 Ecuadorians, $6 foreigners.

• Hot springs and Spa in Cuenca — A charming tiny village named Baos is located on the outskirts of Cuenca, 40 minutes by bus from downtown and around 15 minutes from Coral Centro on Las Americas. The other Baos is located closer to Quito. There are really two towns in Ecuador with the name Baos. Natural warm mineral water runs into the valley below a mountain near Baos. The residents of this sleepy small town made use of this natural resource by establishing three distinct mineral spring parks where visitors may go to take mineral baths. Two of these mineral springs charge $8 per person per day and are oriented toward families with young children. In the same region lies Piedra de Agua Mineral Springs & Spa, a lovely resort with a restaurant. The cost of admission is $10 for all-day access to the mineral pools and $20 more for the spa. Since the pools are outside, sunscreen may be useful.

• Oliveto, Calle Larga y Luis Cordero. Romantic Italian restaurant with the largest wine selection in Cuenca. Serves both lunch and dinner. Closed on Sunday and Monday.

• Women’s Coop, on General Torres –near Mariscal Sucre (next to the artisanry market). closes around 2PM. Cheap, nutricious, and local lunch with a soup and a drink. Made by indigenous women in a sweet courtyard. Vegetarian and meat options.$1-1.50. 

• Cafe Eucalyptus, Gran Colombia 9-41. 5-11PM, later on Th-Sa. Very popular with travelers, they offer everything from Pad Thai to pasta, salads, hummus and guacamole, all very tasty. It’s warm and friendly, and also good for groups. Quite expensive for Ecuador, $5.07 for a coca-cola plus tip makes one think that the travellers are taken advantage of. Mains $3-9. 
• Mixx Gourmet Ice-cream, Parque San Blas. Home made ice cream with a variety of flavors, including exotic gruits and alcoholic flavors such as whisky, beer, brandy or vodka. 

• La Fornace. A well known local pizza chain in Cuenca that has three or four branches. The fruit pizza is excellent and quite inexpensive. The ice cream there is also delicious and costs about 70¢ for the first scoop.

• San Sebas Cafe, 1-94 San Sebastian y Mariscal Sucre (On the corner of Parque San Sebastian). Great little cafe with a good atmosphere. Serves both breakfast and lunch. Closed on Monday and Tuesday. 

• Banana Cafe, Hermano Miguel 4-36 y Calle Larga. Run by three local women, Banana’s serves an outstanding breakfast at a fair price. They also have a sandwich plate with chips for an early lunch — they close at 1PM The menu includes such items as GREAT omelets, pancakes, French toast, homemade granola, fresh fruit juices, smoothies & yogurt (plus numerous other yummy breakfast goodies). 

• Goza, Antonio Borrero 4-11 y Calle Larga (1 block east and 4 blocks south from Parque Calderón),  +593 7 2830350, e-mail: info@gozaespresso.com. Arguably one of the best cafés in the lovely historical centre of Cuenca, with a beautiful (heated!) street terrace and friendly staff. Great variety of coffees available. The food is also praised though pricier than most restaurants, coffees are the real deal here.Coffee from $1.50 to $4.70.
• Jazz Society Café (The Jazz Society of Ecuador), 2nd floor (upstairs) of La Viña Italian Restaurant, 5-101 Luis Cordero y Juan Jaramillo (2 blocks from Parque Calderon along Luis Cordero down to Calle Larga),  +593-93-934-2714 (English), +593-99-588-8796 (Español), e-mail: jazzsocietyofecuador@gmail.com. The Café is open Wednesdays through Saturdays from 6:30pm to 10pm. The music begins at 7:30pm.. The Jazz Society Café is the Cuenca performance venue of The Jazz Society of Ecuador. It is above La Viña Italian Restaurant, and La Viña provides the food & beverages using the same menu and prices as downstairs, and has an excellent reputation for serving authentic Italian cuisine and pizza, as the owner and chef are from Italy. $5. 

At the flower market on Calle Sucre, which is in front of the new cathedral, purchase some flowers. From there, go another block or two to reach the clothes and art market, where you may also purchase knitted items made in Otavalo. Additionally offered here are lovely handmade ruanas, sweaters, caps, mittens, and finger puppets.

Other artisans have stalls with gorgeous embroidery, metal, wood, and leather work, Panama hats, musical instruments, knit products, jewelry, and other handicrafts within the yellow CemuArt building at the market, across from the police station.

• ABC Libreria,  +593 7 2845 749. At Padre Aguirre 8-11 y Sucre. diagonal to the flower market has a tiny selection of English books. 

• Rafael Paredes & Hijos,  +593 7 2831-569. To buy from their fine range of Panama hats. You get a short tour round, an explanation of how they are made and a chance to see your hat go from a simple woven straw cone to a finished wearable hat. Various styles, men’s and women’s and sizes. 

• Used Books, Hermano Miguel (near Calle Larga). There are two wonderful used English bookstores –although a bit pricy ($5-20) 
• Mall del Rio. Cuenca’s biggest shopping mall, with cinemas (typically Spanish language only) and food court. 2-2.50$ by taxi (10 mins). 

• La Esquina des Artes, Av. 12 de Abril and Agustín Cueva,  +593 7 2831118. The location is a permanent and quaint display of artists and artisans located next to the University of Cuenca. 

“El Carnaval” is one of the celebrations held in Cuenca and other regions of Ecuador. This holiday is observed three days before Ash Wednesday. Families join together to commemorate a tradition that was formerly considered heathen. Nowadays, individuals celebrate by spraying “Carioca,” a non-staining foam, on friends and random strangers.