Kabul

Kabul rises from a steep valley at the heart of the Hindu Kush, a city of layered histories and unexpected vitality. At roughly 1,800 meters above sea level, its dry climate and clear mountain light set the stage for a city that is at once ancient and modern. Kabul’s broad avenues and towering government buildings coexist with narrow mud-walled lanes and centuries-old shrines. This guide is written for independent travelers curious about Kabul’s true nature — neither a sales pitch nor a warning, but a careful report on what it means to visit, experience, and navigate this complex capital in late 2025.

Introduction: Kabul in Context

Kabul’s story stretches back millennia: along the Silk Road trade routes, through Mughal gardens, Soviet conflicts, and decades of Afghan civil wars. Today it serves as the capital under the Islamic Emirate government, with vestiges of its past still visible in architecture and street life. The city is perched amid the Shomali plains and flanked by the shimmering peaks of the Hindu Kush. The Kabul River snakes through the valley, dividing the Old City to the southeast from more modern districts in the north and west.

The atmosphere is layered. In one moment you may stroll through a Mughal-style terraced garden with carved marble pavilions, and in the next weave between mustard-yellow French-brutalist government offices and patched rooftops. The tempo varies by neighborhood. Diplomatic Wazir Akbar Khan feels calm and planted with plane trees and hilltop vistas, while the Old City hums with motorbikes, birdcalls, and vendors. At day’s end, sunlight slants gold across ruined fortresses or neon-lit shisha cafes, depending on where you are.

Kabul’s appeal is subtle: not the usual tourist checklist of flags-and-lion selfies, but the feel of the city underfoot. The worn stone of Shah-Do Shamshira Mosque, the burnished aroma of flatbread being baked, the rattle of a honey-colored Gazal taxi — these are Kabul’s textures. For many visitors, these sensory layers and the resilience of daily life in a city long studied and often overlaid by outsiders can be deeply affecting.

Yet Kabul is also a place of tension and caution. Official travel advisories remain extremely restrictive, warning against all travel due to security concerns (the U.S. and other governments keep their envoys away and advise travelers to stay home). At street level, however, Kabul in late 2025 operates much like a normal city: busy bazaars, working traffic, and people going about daily routines. The truth lies somewhere between: an honest visitor must acknowledge both the official warnings and the lived reality of how Kabul functions today.

This guide is built for readers who want to travel carefully but fully understand their destination. It blends practical “how-to” guidance with vivid local color. You will find detailed itineraries, neighborhood portraits, food guides, and safety tips drawn from current information. Throughout, the tone is measured and descriptive: a journalist’s eye on the city’s structures and a sensitive traveler’s ear to local life.

• Quick Tip: Visitors often find Kabul feels different from any other city they know. Keep an open mind, stay flexible with plans (roads or flights can change without notice), and take time to observe the everyday rhythms — a morning chai session, children playing cricket in an alley, or the evening call to prayer echoing across the rooftops.

Before You Go: Planning and Practicalities

Passports, Visas, and Permits

Getting into Afghanistan requires advance planning. Visas: All foreigners need a visa. There is no visa-on-arrival; applications are handled through Afghan embassies recognized by the current government. In practice, most independent travelers apply via the consulate in Islamabad (Pakistan) or Peshawar, or by using a fixer/agent who deals with the Afghan diplomatic missions. Typical tourist visa fees in Islamabad/Peshawar run about $80 USD (standard) or $130 USD (expedited) for a 30-day single-entry visa. Dubai often serves as a stopover, but direct visa service there is limited. Be prepared to provide basic documents (passport photos, copies of passport, maybe an invitation or travel plan) and do this early — processing can be unpredictable.

Beyond the entry visa, Afghanistan requires travel permits for most provinces. Each province you plan to visit must be listed on an official permit (اجازه‌نامه سفر) obtained from the Ministry of Information and Culture in Kabul. The procedure is a little bureaucratic: on arrival in Kabul, foreign travelers can go to the “Tourism Directory” section of the Ministry, fill out a form naming the provinces you intend to spend time in, and pay roughly 1,000 AFN (about $12 USD) per province. Expect the permit document in hand the same day or the next. Once at provincial checkpoints or local offices, showing this permit (with Afghan officials registering your itinerary) is generally required. Plan to allow half a day in Kabul to arrange these permits before heading out of the city.

• Note for Women: Under the current regime, unaccompanied women often face additional scrutiny. A woman traveling alone can expect to be asked by authorities who is her male guardian. Many female travelers arrange to travel with a companion (male or female guide) for smoother entry. If you are a woman traveling solo, consider securing a local escort or guide to accompany you for the permit process and at least the first few destinations.

When to Visit Kabul (Seasonal Overview)

Kabul’s four seasons are starkly distinct.

• Winter (December–February): Kabul can get cold, with occasional snow blanketing the mountains and even the city’s rooftops. Daytime highs may reach only 5–10°C (40–50°F), dropping well below freezing at night. Many roads to high passes (including the Salang, out of Kabul to the north) may be closed by snowfall for days. Winter also marks the Buzkashi season in the north, where the horse-mounted goat-sheep polo game is played enthusiastically. This is a quiet tourist time in Kabul itself (few other foreigners), and the city feels subdued. If you pack woolens, you can enjoy empty bazaars and crisp mountain air; just beware slippery streets and closed venues.
• Spring (March–May): Often the most pleasant season in Kabul. Temperatures are mild (10–20°C/50–68°F) and the valley turns green. Fruit trees blossom — pomegranate and peach blossoms can carpet the hillsides — and Babur’s Garden especially becomes lush with spring flowers. Late March brings the festival of Nowruz (Persian New Year), when parks may fill with picnickers. Shoulder-season rain is light. This is generally ideal traveling weather: days are comfortable and Khushdil Khan (late afternoon) light highlights the city’s gardens and monuments. Pack layers (warm morning, hot afternoon, cool night).
• Summer (June–August): Kabul can get very hot in July and August. Daytime highs often reach 30–35°C (90–95°F). The sun is intense on Kabul’s light-colored concrete. Many locals head to the hills to escape city heat. However, summer is also the trekking season in high country (Wakhan Corridor, Hindu Kush passes). If you tolerate heat, travel early in the morning and rest midday. Evening thunderstorms are possible but brief. Hydration is crucial — carry water (see Food & Drink section). On the plus side, summer means open roads to places like Bamyan and Herat, and clear views across the mountains.
• Autumn (September–November): A second wave of agreeable weather. Temperatures cool from the summer peak into the comfortable 15–25°C range (60–75°F). Fruit harvests ripen — Kabul’s grape and pomegranate markets bustle in early fall. Occasional rain returns by November. This season offers crisp air and golden landscapes, similar to spring in quality. Autumn nights can see the first frosts by late November. It’s a popular time to visit before winter’s chill sets in.

Packing Quick List: Light layers (cotton shirts with a warm fleece), a sturdy walking shoe, a warm jacket (even in spring/fall), and reliable rain gear or umbrella (for winter and summer storms). For women, conservative long skirts/pants and a lightweight headscarf (for mosque visits or conservative areas). A universal power adapter and external battery pack are invaluable, as power cuts and charging points can be unpredictable.

Getting There & Into Kabul

By Air: As of late 2025, Kabul’s international airport (Hamid Karzai International) handles some commercial flights. Direct flights connect to a few regional hubs: Ariana and Kam Air fly from Dubai, Istanbul, Islamabad, Peshawar, and Abu Dhabi (routes may vary with demand). Check airlines before booking — schedules can change quickly. Security is strict at the airport; allow extra time.

By Land: Many travelers arrive overland from Pakistan. The Torkham crossing (near Peshawar) is busy; shared taxis and buses regularly travel between Peshawar and Kabul via Jalalabad (a ~5–6 hour drive from Peshawar to Kabul, mountain roads). If coming from Pakistan, you will likely obtain your Afghan visa in Islamabad or Peshawar before entering, then proceed through immigration. From Central Asia, the road from Mazar or Kunduz also links northwards. The Salang Pass to Mazar-i-Sharif reopens in spring after winter snows; from there roads lead to Uzbekistan and Tajikistan.

Once in Afghanistan, road travel is affordable but can be slow. Shared taxis (local-coach vans) are common for intercity travel: e.g., Kabul–Bamyan (~5h, ~400 AFN), Kabul–Mazar (~6–7h via Salang, ~$5), Kabul–Herat (~14–16h, ~$10). These depart from designated stations (often at city outskirts) only when full. Private car hires are available but costlier. Domestic flights (Ariana, Kam Air) connect Kabul with Bamyan, Mazar, and Herat in about an hour each; fares can range from $50–$150 one-way if booked.

• Tip: If traveling overland by shared taxi, pack lightly and consider breaking up long journeys (for example, stay overnight near Ghazni on a Kabul–Herat route). Roads can be rough and early departures are common (buses often leave before dawn to avoid afternoon mountain traffic).

Local Transportation in Kabul

Once in Kabul, taxis and private cars are the norm; there is no subway or metro.

• Yellow Taxis: These run citywide. Most have meters, but fares are variable and starting prices are steep (meter typically ~100–150 AFN then ~30–50 AFN per kilometer). Always negotiate or ask in advance: for example, a 5 km ride might cost ~300–400 AFN ($3–4). If you’re not fluent in Dari or Pashto, show your destination written or on a map. Drivers may not speak much English.
• Shared Nanas (Vans): Frugally, locals often squeeze into white minibuses known as “Nanas.” These follow fixed routes and are very cheap (often 20–30 AFN). For foreigners, this can be an adventure and a way to see daily life — but it requires flagging the right van and waiting until it’s full.
• Walking: Kabul’s traffic is congested, and sidewalks are uneven or often occupied by street vendors. However, neighborhoods like Wazir Akbar Khan or the Old City can be pleasant to explore on foot. Just watch for potholes, animals, and aggressive crowing roosters in the middle of the street at dawn.
• Ride-Hail Apps: In recent years, services like Afghani versions of ride-hailing apps have emerged but coverage is sporadic. Don’t rely on them exclusively.

Hail Taxis Safely: During day or early evening, it’s usually safe to wave down a taxi. At night, consider pre-booking through a hotel or ordered service if you can; violence against foreigners can occur after dark, so men and especially women should be cautious.

Money, ATMs, and Connectivity

Currency: The Afghani (AFN) is the local currency (₳). Some shops and hotels accept USD, but don’t count on being able to pay all expenses in dollars. Bring a mix of cash. ATMs exist at big hotels and the airport, but may be unreliable or out of service. If your card is Visa or MasterCard, you might be able to withdraw Afghani at limited ATMs; bring extra backup cash just in case.

• Exchange: You can exchange foreign currency at banks or money changers in Kabul for a fair rate; carry small denominations (USD$50 or $100 bills) that are clean and new.
• Budget: A modestly comfortable daily budget in Kabul might be $50–$70 USD/day (about 4,000–5,000 AFN) including a decent hotel, meals, local transportation, and tipping. Cheaper guesthouses exist, and street food can drop costs.
• Tipping: Hospitality is valued but not obligatory. In restaurants or for porters, leaving a 10% tip on top of the bill is appreciated.

SIM Cards & Internet: All major Afghan mobile companies (Roshan, Afghan Wireless, Etisalat, etc.) offer 4G SIMs. You can buy a SIM at the airport or city shops by showing your passport. Data plans are affordable but expect relatively slow speed and occasional outages (internet infrastructure is weak). WhatsApp and other messaging apps usually work through a VPN (many sites like Facebook or YouTube may be blocked). Wi-Fi in hotels can be spotty. If you rely on data, buy enough GB for maps and emergency use.

Local Customs and Etiquette

Dress Code: Modesty is key. Men should wear long pants and avoid sleeveless shirts. Women, especially in public or rural areas, are expected to cover arms, legs, and hair with a scarf or loose shawl. Many Afghan women also cover their heads even in the streets. Pants or long skirts with loose tops and a scarf worn over the head suffice. No tight or revealing clothing. At religious sites (mosques and shrines), both men and women must remove shoes and (for women) cover their hair.

Greetings: A nod or handshake is common among men, and among women. Handshakes across genders are sensitive: don’t reach out to shake hands with an Afghan woman unless she offers first. Instead, a slight bow or hand-over-heart gesture is respectful. Use your right hand for handshakes and when giving or receiving items (left hand is considered impolite for such exchanges).

Photos and Permissions: Photography can be tricky. Public monuments, cityscapes, landscapes are generally fine. Always ask before photographing people, especially women; a polite smile and a nod typically suffices. The few local bird-sellers or artisans might allow pictures if you smile first. Never photograph military personnel, government buildings, or Taliban-era posters, unless you have permission; doing so can cause serious trouble. Drone cameras are outright banned.

Behavior: Loud public displays of affection are frowned upon. Keep voices moderate. Sitting cross-legged or any gesture showing the sole of your foot is considered rude; instead, sit with feet flat on the floor or to the side. Public drinking of alcohol is not allowed (even for foreigners); avoid carrying any. During Ramadan (if you travel in that month), be respectful: don’t eat, drink, or smoke in public daylight as a non-Muslim.

Mosque Etiquette: When visiting mosques (like the beautiful Sakhi Shrine or Shah-Do Shamshira), walk quietly, do not interfere with prayers, and dress even more conservatively. Remove shoes at the entrance; women should have their heads fully covered. Admire architecture and tilework from the back if services are going on.

Interactions: Afghans are known for hospitality. If invited for tea or a meal, accept graciously — conversation often revolves around questions about life abroad, family, and polite compliments about the country. Always use your right hand to eat bread or to pass food. It’s common to serve the guest first in a gathering.

Cultural Note: Kabul’s decades of turmoil have given rise to a certain caution among locals. It’s normal to be greeted warmly by one person and then gently corrected by another on some point of etiquette (for instance, how to sit or what to ask about). Don’t take corrections personally; they are often offered in good faith.

Safety and Security Briefing

Kabul’s security environment is fluid. The Taliban government declares the country safe and is eager to welcome visitors, yet actual risk remains. In Kabul proper, armed conflict is rare but not unheard of: there have been infrequent bombings or shootings reported even in the last couple of years.

• Common-Sense Precautions: Stay vigilant in crowds and markets — pickpocketing or robbery is rare, but petty theft can occur. Always keep backpacks zipped and be discreet with valuables. At night, avoid walking in unfamiliar, dimly lit areas.
• Checkpoints: Numerous Taliban checkpoints are scattered around Kabul. They will ask to see your permit (for outside Kabul travel), passport, and visa. Always have copies of important documents handy in a separate pocket or bag.
• Official Advisories: Western governments generally advise citizens to stay away from Afghanistan. This article is not an endorsement of travel, but rather an objective guide for those who, for whatever reason, have decided to go. If you do, register with your embassy (if possible) or at least leave an itinerary with someone you trust. Carry emergency contact info of your country’s consulate or aid offices (though note that most embassies closed in 2021, contacts are now regional or via third countries).
• If Detained: Know that consular services are very limited. If questioned by authorities, remain calm and polite. Asking for contacts or legal advice is unlikely to yield results, but having local English-speaking friends or a guide who can intervene on your behalf can make a difference. Always carry an “emergency copy” of your passport, visa, and a simple card with your embassy info.

Important: This guide provides context and tips, but conditions can change rapidly. Always stay updated with local news, respect all laws, and trust your instincts about safety.

Day 1: Orientation – Highs, History & First Impressions

Morning – Wazir Akbar Khan Hill & a Bird’s-Eye View

Begin in Wazir Akbar Khan (often just called “WAK”), a grid of wide streets lined with trees and embassies. A short hike up the hill behind the old Presidential Palace (labeled Wazir Akbar Khan Hill on many maps) offers a panoramic orientation. From here you can see Kabul spread out: the long green of the Kabul River park below, Babur’s Garden to the south (your Day 2 plan), and the Arghandab and Hindu Kush beyond.

At the summit is a Taliban flag fluttering atop a pole. For visitors, it’s a striking symbol: Kabul’s new flag and governance on full display. Approach respectfully, but it is safe to photograph the flag from afar — in fact, at many checkpoints local fighters will pose happily for pictures with their flag.

Also atop the hill stands a modest shrine dedicated to Shah-e Mullah Muhammad Omar, the Taliban founder (Mullah Omar). Quietly observe this unassuming domed square building and the simpler tomb of Sheikh Sayed Hamid running behind it, which now doubles as a shrine. Both were once concealed by rubble and have been restored by the current regime. If curious, you may step inside the main dome (remove shoes) to see rows of men praying — cameras usually frowned on inside, so view from the entrance. This spot shows how recent history is layered here: Mullah Omar’s simple tomb is adjacent to the new flag he helped raise in 1996.

• Descend to Bibi Mahro Hill: About a 15-minute walk down from the flag-post, the neighborhood at the hill’s base (sometimes called Bibi Mahro) has narrow streets and a few restaurants used by locals. From a cafe here, glance back at the hill and note the mix of housing and gardens — a quieter slice of city life.

Afternoon – National Museum & Traces of Conflict

After lunch (try a local kabab or a hearty stew at a modest diner in WAK), head across the city to the National Museum of Afghanistan (currently reopened after years of restoration). The taxi ride from WAK to Shah-Do Shamshira or Ranibagh area should take about 15–20 minutes (25–40 AFN, bargain or insist on meter).

Inside the museum (hours are usually late morning to mid-afternoon), you’ll find a surprising trove: 35,000+ items of archaeology, art, and artifacts from prehistoric to modern times. Highlights include Bactrian golden jewelry, stone carvings from the Greco-Bactrian and Kushan periods, Buddhist figures (once visible on Bamyan), and impressive collections of calligraphy and manuscripts. Much was looted or destroyed in the 1990s, but recent curatorship has reclaimed and restored many treasures. Take time to see the Ghaznavid Quran pages, rare coins of early Afghan kingdoms, and royal regalia. If the current regime allows, a walk-through of the former Darul Aman Palace “War Museum” next door can complement this: it displays weaponry, Taliban-era photos, and mine-clearing exhibits by PMAC (People’s Ministry for Avian-Civic programs) who cleared unexploded ordnance (PMAC’s work is inspiring to Afghans).

The mood here is sober but proud: a nation rebuilding its story. Note how the displays often have Persian and Pashto labels alongside English. After absorbing history, stroll out and perhaps sit at the garden fountain outside to collect your thoughts.

Evening – Old City Immersion: Birds, Bazaar & Dinner

As dusk approaches, make your way to the Old City quarter (around Shah-Do Shamshira and Ka Faroshi/Bazaar area). In particular, the Ka Faroshi Bird Market is a must-see. Following the Kabul River to Maiwand Square (a local roundabout), you’ll find a narrow lane lined with small shops and birdcages.

Ka Faroshi Bird Market: Here time seems to stand still. Enter around late afternoon when local bird traders set out thousands of birds in cages: chukar partridges, finches, doves, parrots, and especially the famed Afghan kokabr (chukar). Watch men hunched over cages listening to bird calls. Dealers chat and haggle, selling bird feed, cages, and quail chicks. Canaries sing and fighting cocks cluck. The scene is noisy with calls and scurrying creatures — a glimpse of an age-old Afghan pastime. Photography is okay of the birds (people generally don’t mind if you ask first).

The narrow market feels enclosed by the Kabul River’s wall on one side. If hunger strikes here, a few simple food stalls offer naan wraps and kebabs — very basic but tempting if you’ve been exploring all day.

Afterwards, wander a bit west into the Chicken Street area (Koch-e Murgha) in Shahr-e Naw District. Despite its name, this street has no chickens. Instead, it’s a short block of souvenir shops and cafes (now largely shuttered) that once catered to hippies and diplomats. Today it’s mostly quiet, but a pre-reopening renovation is underway at several boutique shops. You might find Afghan coats, jewelry, and faded tapestries if you poke around. For dinner, shift to one of Kabul’s nicer restaurants in nearby Wazir Akbar Khan or Shahr-e Naw: Sufi Mahal is an airy wooden pavilion serving hearty kebabs and mantu; Khanagi is a bread bakery that offers homemade nan with creamy Afghan stews; or Maiwand or Shaam Restaurants for a more upscale introduction to traditional flavors (lamb kabobs, sabzi, rice dishes) in courtyards.

Before bed, sip on sweet black chaï at a tea house nearby. Observe how Kabuli nightlife is low-key: families gathering over samosa, men at hookah lounges. Retire with a sense of the city’s ambiance — bustling old markets and treelined diplomatic avenues sharing one skyline.

Day 2: Gardens, Shrines & Quiet Corners

Morning – Babur’s Garden (Bagh-e Babur)

Start early to catch Bagh-e Babur, the terraced imperial garden built by the Mughal emperor Babur in 1504 (his memoirs, the Baburnama, detail its original design). The 36-hectare park lies just southwest of the city center, on the gentle slopes of Sher Darwaza mountain. A taxi drop-off at the main gate (near Shahr-e Naw Park) will cost perhaps 150–200 AFN from central Kabul.

At the entrance, cross the restored 19th-century caravanserai (now a museum area with artifacts) into the charbagh layout of crisscrossing canals and paved paths. The garden has fifteen broad steps rising up the hillside. Wander among cypresses, tulips (in spring), and fountains resurrected from ruin. Along the way, pause at Babur’s Tomb, an octagonal platform with a central, unroofed gravestone: Babur’s dying wish was to be buried so that wildflowers would grow on his grave. Today, his tomb is marked by carved inscriptions but otherwise open to the sky.

On one of the platforms is the Queen’s Palace (Tajbeg Palace), a turreted pavilion built for Babur’s wife, restored by the Aga Khan Trust. Climbing to the top, you get a sweeping view back toward the city and of Kabul’s modern neighborhoods beyond Shahr-e Naw Park. In good weather, the light falls on red roofs and distant white peaks.

• Local Life: Babur’s Garden is not just a monument but a community park. Afghan families picnic on the lawns, children play under old trees, and elders exercise by the fountains. Teahouses and refreshment stalls ring the garden — try a sweet halwa and black tea at the garden kiosk (a few AFN). A calligraphy pavilion, newly restored, showcases stone inscriptions.

On leaving Babur’s, exit by the western gate into Shahr-e Naw District. You’ll find shaded bakeries selling hot naan and pastries (afghan sweets stuffed with nuts or shorak, a pumpkin-based paste). This is a good time to try Afghan breakfast staples: lavash or tabakh bread with a boiled egg and fresh yellow cheese, or bolani (pan-fried flatbread stuffed with leeks or potatoes). Sip another pot of green tea before heading to the afternoon shrine.

Afternoon – Karte Sakhi & the Shrine of Ali

A short walk or taxi ride west of Babur’s Garden brings you to Karte-Ye-Sakhi, a neighborhood dominated by a striking turquoise-domed shrine complex. This is the Sakhi Shah-e-Mardan Shrine (also known as Ziarat-e Sakhi), one of Kabul’s most important pilgrim sites. It commemorates Hazrat Ali, cousin and son-in-law of the Prophet Muhammad, believed to have visited or left a relic here. The shrine’s legend involves a sacred cloak (the Prophet’s) and mystical dreams of Ali at this spot.

The shrine’s architecture is dazzling: six sky-blue domes and multiple minarets covered in shimmering glazed tiles, built originally in the early 20th century and expanded by King Amanullah’s mother in 1919. Walk up the narrow stairs to the marble courtyard. Inside the men’s mosque (entrance fee is nominal or free), ornate neo-Safavid Persian patterns and calligraphy cover the walls. Non-Muslims may stand near the entry hall to look at the intricate tilework — in the prayer hall women drop petitions into a carved alcove while a dark rock cave below ground holds votive art and a finger-shaped relic (Ali’s supposed handprint).

Be sure to follow mosque etiquette: women must cover hair fully and speak softly (bring or rent a scarf if needed at the entrance). Shoes are removed at the gate. Spend a few contemplative minutes — even if you don’t share the faith, the discipline and color of this space are impressive.

Nearby, sip chai at one of the small verandas or cafes facing the shrine. These offer simple meals or sweets for male visitors (women diners are rare around here). Watching the devout praying and pilgrims arriving by car or donkey is a lesson in Afghan spirituality.

Evening – Darul Aman Palace and City Lights

As the sun begins to lower, make your way to Darul Aman Palace, a magnificent domed building on the western outskirts (about 7 km from the city center). This neoclassical palace was built in the 1920s by King Amanullah Khan as a symbol of modern Afghanistan. It suffered heavy damage in the civil war but has been carefully restored and reopened to the public in recent years.

Arrive an hour before sunset if you can. The palace’s marble floors, grand halls, and gardens are regal in the soft light. If interior tours are available, you may enter to see century-old portraits and political memorabilia; otherwise, admire the imposing columns and the grand dome from outside. The palace grounds have manicured lawns and flowerbeds, a marked contrast to the rubble of decades past.

When the sky glows orange behind the dome, the view westward is mesmerizing. From Darul Aman’s front, look toward the Panjshir Range on the horizon — the mountains often turn pastel pink at dusk. Inside, or on the palace’s lawn, enjoy the cool evening air.

• Alternative: If the drive to Darul Aman feels far or traffic is bad, consider spending evening on Asamayi (Television) Hill just northwest of city center. A rudimentary cable car ride or a hike up Asamayi offers panoramic city lights, and at the base lies a Sikh temple (Asa’Mai Temple, restored 2006) and small park. The shrine atop the hill (Asamai Mosque) has 10th-century Hindu origins turned Islamic shrine (legend says Ali is commemorated here too). The dusk view from Asamayi is equally striking: you see all of Kabul in a sweep from Loya Powandah down to the Old City lights.

For dinner, back in the city center try a night bazaar lane or late teahouse. There are few formal “night markets” in Kabul, but near Shahr-e Naw or even Chicken Street area some street vendors grill kebabs or make fresh mantu (dumplings) late into the evening. Many restaurants now have extended hours — Khanagi and Maiwand even after 9 pm — so you can have another long Afghan meal (perhaps with roasted veggies, grilled chicken karahi, plain rice) before calling it a night.

Day 3: Making Choices – City Corners or Quick Escape

Day 3 is flexible depending on your interests and onward travel plans. Here are two paths:

Morning Option A – Istalif Village (Green Hills Escape)

About 40 km north of Kabul lies Istalif, a picturesque village known for its pottery and cool mountain air. If the Kabul urban scene feels heavy, consider a half-day trip here. Shared van transport departs from Charahi Ansari in central Kabul (ask a taxi to drop you at “Istalif taxi”). The roughly 1–1.5 hour drive winds over a pass with views of terraced apple orchards.

In Istalif, the village is laid out on a series of verdant slopes. Famous here are potters’ workshops: women carry clay, men shape hand-thrown pitchers and bowls in outdoor kilns. You can often watch an artisan press the wet clay on a spinning wheel to make a large olla or flower vase, then fire it in a pit. The air smells of earth and pine. A small river runs through the village; children play along it.

Walk up to the shrine on the hill (Ziarat-e Pir Hajji Yousuf, about 20 minutes up). From here there’s a panorama of Istalif’s whitewash houses and the Kabul basin. Return to town in time for lunch (try ashak or mantu at a Kabul home-style cafe along the road).

Morning Option B – Deeper Old City

If you prefer staying in Kabul, continue exploring the Old City. Walk to the Yellow Mosque (Shah-Do Shamshira), a curious two-storied yellow mosque built in Baroque-Istanbul style. Its twin minarets and ornate white stucco decoration make it stand out along the riverbank. It’s worth popping in for its cheerful tiled prayer hall. Nearby is the tomb of Chin Timur Khan, cousin of the first Mughal emperor, where locals leave wreaths on marble tombstones.

From there, wander through the narrow lanes east of the river where everyday life unfolds: men playing backgammon on stoops, women bargaining at the fruit bazaar under hanging poppy heads, children in school uniforms. Keep your camera tucked; this area is for observational strolling.

Stop by the War Victims Memorial Park – a quiet corner with Afghan flags and names of fallen soldiers, reflecting more recent history.

Midday – Preparing to Depart

After your final morning excursion, it’s time to prep for onward travel or departure. If continuing on, check buses or flight schedules (many flights depart around midday or evening to northern cities). If you have extra time in Kabul, a sensible half-day itinerary could be:

• Hindu Kush Viewpoint: If you want one last look at the mountains, take a short taxi up Television Hill (Asamayi) even for a few minutes of morning sun on the peak.
• Final Shopping: The Souk-e Herat (Herati Bazaar) near Chicken Street still sells lapis lazuli jewelry, Afghan coats, and antiques. Alternatively, Wazir Akbar Khan has a few craft shops selling high-quality rugs and dak halwa (madeleines) for gifts.
• Currency Exchange: If you need to convert leftover AFN back to USD, do it before leaving town — at big hotels or official bureaus.
• Chamomile Tea in Bakery: Many travellers swear by a slow baked naani bolani stuffed with leeks in a WAK bakery or a last round of green tea at a local teahouse near Spinzar.

If you must squeeze Kabul into 1–2 days: Realistically, focus on Day 1 (view + museum + Bird Market) plus Babur’s Garden and Sakhi Shrine on Day 2 (skip Istalif and Darul Aman). That covers the “must-sees.”

Neighborhoods of Kabul: Where Each Mood Belongs

Choosing where to walk or stay in Kabul can greatly shape your experience. Here are five distinct areas:

• Old City (Shahr-e-Now / Aibak Town): The historic heart. Once ringed by medieval walls, it now has the “Ka Faroshi” bird bazaar, Chicken Street shops, and Bala Hissar fortress ruins (inaccessible now). Streets are narrow and bustling, with hawkers selling spices, carpets, copperware, and street food. This is where Kabul’s authentic chaos lives: loud, crowded, full of colors and smells (of incense, chicken spiced with tamarind, and dust). Staying here puts you near markets and centuries-old mosques. However, it can feel noisy and is not the best for quiet nights – especially near Babur’s Garden or the river. Many old guesthouses are here. Who it suits: History buffs and market lovers who want to be in the thick of it.
• Wazir Akbar Khan (District 3): Kabul’s embassy and diplomatic quarter. Wide, clean streets lined with plane trees, villas and newer hotels. The US and German embassies used to be here (closed now), but the feel is still international. The palace-like Serena Hotel sits here, plus most high-end restaurants and expat services. It’s generally safer at night, with a calmer vibe. Nighttime is quiet except at a few safe restaurant clusters. Safety: Still exercise caution, but WAK is often preferred by families and foreigners for its orderliness. Who it suits: Travelers who prefer comfort, proximity to clinics and good eateries, or a neighborhood with a “suburban” feel.
• Karteh-Parwan (Sakhi/Ziayarat): Immediately west of WAK and stretching north up Asamayi, Karteh-Parwan is mostly residential. It has a local, earthy feel: markets for grains and vegetables, small clinics, modest guesthouses (often simpler, cheaper). The big attraction is the Sakhi Shrine (in Karteh-e Sakhi section) and a growing number of cafes and shops serving locals. Streets can be crowded with minibuses and the old cemetery on the hill is atmospheric at dusk. Who it suits: Visitors on a budget or those wanting to stay among ordinary Afghan families. It’s not inherently dangerous, but infrastructure here is more modest.
• Karteh-Seh (District 6/Shahr-e-Naw): Central and busy, this is where Kabul’s administrative center spreads. It includes portions of Shahr-e Naw, polyglot bazaars, and business streets like Chicken Street and Zarnegar Road. There are many banks, travel agents, and larger hotels (Intercontinental, Serena on the edge). It’s where taxi stations congregate. The vibe is a bit gritty but diverse: some colonial-era villas, modern offices, pastel apartment blocks, and old bazaars. At night, the main roads are still active with shops open late. Who it suits: Travelers who want to be centrally located, near public transit, markets and dining options.
• Asamayi Hill Vicinity (Television Hill / Shah-Do-Masjid Area): South of Shahr-e-Naw and stretching to Koh-e Asamai, this area is a mix of hillside neighborhoods and the shrine to Ali at base. It’s built on slopes with dramatic views. Housing is dense but some streets have green patches. It feels spiritual, given the Sakhi complex at one corner. Many NGOs and media had offices here pre-2021 (reopening status unclear). Nighttime sees the yellow mosque lit up, and the hill itself is dark except for a few homes. Who it suits: Sightseers who value view and a quieter residential vibe; gardeners (Bagh-e-Babur is at one edge); walking back from Darul Aman (if one spends all day east of city).

No neighborhood is completely risk-free after dark, and areas considered “nice” can have security posts. It’s wise to ask hotel staff or local acquaintances the safety on your exact street. In general, avoid the far west (around Ghazi Stadium) at night, and be cautious near conflict sites.

Eating & Drinking – Afghanistan on Your Plate

Kabul’s food culture is central to daily life. Afghan meals are hearty, filling, and shared — meat often stews for hours and rice is king. Here’s the local rhythm of eating:

• Breakfast: Afghans often start late, but morning treats exist. Look for naan bread shops around 8–10 am. You might find fresh naan (thin wheat flatbread) taken out of the tandoor oven, served with white cheeses (panir), honey, or halwa (a sweet semolina pudding often sold as slices). A plate might have boiled eggs, maybe haft maan (mini omelette salad). Hot chai (black tea, sometimes green) is the norm — strong and usually sweet. Don’t be shy to try kajmak (clotted cream cheese) and mulukhia (herb stew) which are breakfast staples for some.
• Lunch: Midday is the main meal in Kabul. Afghan time often means lunch around 1–3 pm. A typical dish is Qabli (Qabuli) Pulao: basmati rice with carrots and raisins, topped with chunks of lamb or beef. It’s sweet-spiced (cardamom, cumin, a hint of saffron). Kebab lovers can opt for chicken tikka, seekh kebab (minced lamb on a skewer), or chopan (cubed lamb) served with rice or naan. Stews (known as qorma) accompany rice or bread: for example, qorma sabzi (spinach stew often with lamb) or qorma morgh (tomato-onion chicken stew). Many places serve naan wraps (tiny rolled flatbreads) filled with chops or liver, which Afghans casually snack on between formal meals.

Street Food: In safe areas, look for vendors on Charsoo (Charah Charsoo) near the main bazaar corridors serving free-range grilled meats or bara (a type of fried bread). But be cautious: only eat street food if the stall looks busy with locals and food is piping hot. Kabul’s water can be unsafe: bottled water is readily available, or take boiled tea instead of tap water.

• Afternoon Tea: By late afternoon, many will take a chai break (often with sweet kulcha bread). Tea vendors in small corner shops pour kahwa (green tea with cardamom). Accepting a cup is a gesture of hospitality. Locals often gather for meranda, a social break similar to coffee break, sometimes with biscuits or dry fruit and candy. At this time, park benches or teahouse lanterns glow softly and business resumes.
• Dinner: Afghans tend to eat dinner late-ish, often 8–10 pm. The meal is usually lighter than lunch (fewer gravies, more bread and salads). Soups like aushak (leek dumplings with yogurt and mint sauce) or mantu (meat dumplings topped with sauce) are common. Families might share platters of vegetable salad (kachumar: tomatoes, cucumber, onion, lemon). The evening meal might reuse leftovers from lunch’s stew. If you dine at a restaurant, consider ordering shol (rice porridge with meat and lentils) or sabzi qorma.
• Vegetarian Options: Afghanistan is not vegetarian-friendly by culture (lamb and chicken are staples). However, you can find lentil stew (masoor) and spinach or potato stews, especially during Ramadan or in some restaurants. Ask for sabzi (spinach), bonjan (eggplant), and kadoo (pumpkin) dishes — often cooked with meat but sometimes offered meat-free if requested. Roasted carrots and potatoes (keray/kerau) are also common sides. Bread (naan, sheer cholpa) itself is filling and comes with most meals.
• Tea and Drink: Tea (chaï) is the beverage lifeblood. Don’t expect coffee — if you want it, Serena Hotel and a few cafes offer it but it’s not the norm. Doogh (a salted yogurt drink) might be served at weddings or if you seek a fermented tang. Fresh juices (pomegranate, carrot, melon) are sold in markets and cafes; pomegranate juice is especially popular. Alcohol is banned in public spaces (the previous small wine production or beer is gone), so avoid trying to find it. Sticking to tea, sherbets, and juices is both legal and safer.
• Street vs. Restaurant: In Kabul’s nicer parts, you’ll find fine dining restaurants with printed menus and a wide range of dishes (including international cuisine like Italian or Chinese). These are pricier but often safer in terms of hygiene. Roadside chai khanas (teahouses) and local eateries offer authentic, simple fare for a fraction of the price. They typically have communal tables and squat faucets for washing hands (always bring sanitizer). If unsure, go where locals are queuing. Spots near universities or offices are often reliable. Avoid raw salads from unclear water sources; cooked and hot foods are the safer bet.
• Food Safety: Kabul’s restaurant cleanliness can vary. To minimize risk: drink bottled water, eat well-cooked dishes, and carry activated charcoal tablets or other basic digestive aids if you have a sensitive stomach. The concept of “healthy American restaurant” doesn’t apply; think local, and assume water isn’t potable. Many travelers take a prophylactic anti-diarrhea medicine just in case.

Menu Translator: When ordering Afghan dishes, here are a few key names:
– Nan: the ubiquitous flatbread (naan) that comes with every meal.
– Sabzi: spinach (a green herb stew, often with meat).
– Qabuli/Qabli Pulao: the national rice dish with lamb, carrots, raisins.
– Mantu: steamed dumplings filled with spiced meat, served with yogurt.
– Aush/Chorba: hearty soup or stew (often lamb or chicken with vegetables).
– Kabab: grilled skewers of meat.
– Shor Nakhod or Masoor Daal: chickpeas or red lentil stew (spiced).
– Sambosa: Afghan samosa (triangular pastry with potato/meat).
– Halwa: sweet dense cake, popular dessert (dates, carrot, etc).
– Sharbat: sweet fruit drinks (try pomegranate or carrot).

Kabul for Different Traveler Types

Kabul is not one-size-fits-all. Different travelers will craft different experiences:

• History & Architecture Buffs: Such travelers will relish extra museum and heritage sites. After Day 1, consider spending more time in the National Museum, and seeking out little-known ruins like the nearby Palace of Tajbeg (old Amanullah palace, now mostly ruins). Climb to Bala Hissar Citadel’s outskirts (visible from afar now; entrance is complicated but some brave souls peer in). Ask at the museum or international NGO community for leads to archaeologist-hosted tours (if any operate). Also, visit Omar Samad’s Landmine Museum (PMAC) on Day 1’s route if time permits – it’s run by an NGO veteran and is fascinating. For deeper study, bring a few volumes of Afghan history to read during quiet moments (a Kabul bookstore near Chicken Street or Hamid Karzai bookstore has English titles).
• Food & Market Aficionados: After a day of sights, wander Kabul’s food markets. Arrive early at the coffee bean stalls on WAK’s road or the fruit market below Chicken Street. Taste street snacks: a fresh bolani (flatbread with chives) from a stand, or the savory kashkawal cheese served with bread and chutneys. Enroll in a one-day cooking class if available (some NGOs and cooking schools offer them in Kabul) to learn how to roll mantu or spice meat properly. Seek out small markets for authentic ingredients: dried pomegranate seeds, Afghan saffron, cedar wood honey, and chaach (yogurt drink).
• Introverts & Quiet Seekers: You’ll find calmer corners. Return visits to Babur’s Garden at dawn or dusk can be almost solitary. Afternoon tea on a hotel terrace (even the Serena or Spa features a quiet rooftop cafe) provides personal reading time. In neighborhoods like Karteh-Parwan, find a quiet park bench by the Asamai Temple gardens overlooking valley views. Thrift a seat on a cable car to Asamayi at a nearly empty hour (worth doing even with a bit of city noise to yourself at sunrise). Avoid peak traffic times and nightclubs. Choose a hotel that has its own quiet interior courtyard (many WAK guesthouses do).
• Women Traveling: A special note of honesty and respect is needed here. Women in Kabul can encounter cultural restrictions and risk harassment. General safety: Many women in Kabul cover fully; foreign women should do so too. Public areas can feel heavily surveilled, especially by the Vice & Virtue Ministry. Avoid walking alone after dark. Instead, plan to dine and shop in daylight or with escorts. Transportation: A taxi driver may refuse a solo female fare; try groups or white Mercedes taxi services used by NGOs (they have female drivers). Dressing: Loose trousers and a long tunic with a wide scarf (not just a hair band, but a shawl) are prudent. Meeting locals: Many Afghan women cannot be interviewed or photographed, so focus on interactions with men (who will often be eager to speak English and share). Seek out the Kabul-based groups or guesthouses run by women for safe lodging. Don’t assume. In short, Kabul is not particularly “dangerous” for a woman who follows local customs and stays vigilant, but it is not like a Western city where female independence is broadly accepted. Adjust your style: for example, instead of sitting alone at a cafe, share a table with a colleague or friend.
• Couples (Adventure-Seeking): Kabul offers some surprisingly romantic moments. An early-morning stroll in Babur’s Garden or a sunrise at Asamayi is intimate. A dinner on a hotel veranda in WAK by lantern light can feel special (many restaurants offer private tables). Sharing a plate of saffron rice and grilled meats, couples often find conversation flows easily as they soak up the history around them. However, public displays of affection are taboo – a gentle holding of hands might be tolerated, but don’t smooch in public. If privacy is needed, ask a restaurant for a corner table. Women couples or LGBT travelers face even tighter constraints — strict gender norms mean women shouldn’t act overtly familiar in public, and any same-sex activity is forbidden by law.

Reality Check: Kabul on the Ground

Let’s separate myth from reality in Kabul.

• Traffic and Transit: Kabul’s reputation for chaotic driving is earned. “Terrible traffic,” as TripAdvisor reviews often note, means midday jams on Jada-e-Maiwand or near the airport, with trucks and buses doubly-long at lights. A 5 km trip that should take 10 minutes can take 30 during peak hours. Taxis honk continuously; motorists dart around stationary vehicles. For planning, assume travel times will be double what Google Maps suggests. If short on time, budget at least an hour between distant sights. Pick off-peak hours for airport transfers or Salang departures (buses often leave at 4–5 AM to beat traffic).

On foot, streets often lack pedestrian crossings or sidewalks, so cross only at major intersections or follow the locals (they have a certain flow to intersections). Crowds are usually respectful, but always watch your step around cars and uneven pavement.

• Safety Situation: After 2021 the Taliban claim “safety,” and major foreign terror attacks have indeed decreased. Nevertheless, remote suicide bombings and hit-and-run shootings do occur occasionally in Kabul (for example, a madrassa attack or a Taliban infighting incident). Most casualties among foreigners have historically come from being in the wrong place at the wrong time. By late 2025, foreign aid agencies report the city center itself has not seen a high-casualty attack in over a year.

Ask Locals: Taxi drivers and shopkeepers often dismiss official warnings as “for foreign embassies.” They may point out that every day they walk market lanes freely. Balance this confidence with caution. For example, avoid large crowds or protests, and follow advice of local colleagues. Keep a low profile: flashy cameras and bags can make you stand out.

• Noise and Dust: Kabul is loud. Car radios brim with Afghan pop, men shout to each other across street vendors, and mosque loudspeakers call to prayer five times a day (audible for blocks). Air is dusty — especially in spring with mud puddles drying in sun, or summer’s dry heat. Bring sunglasses and consider a simple dust mask if you have allergies. Inside musty historical buildings, the drop in noise is almost peaceful.
• Infrastructure Grit: Expect power cuts, especially in winter evenings or during summer heatwaves. Many hotels have generators, but smaller guesthouses do not. Water may run only at certain hours. Internet speeds are slow. Sanitation is basic: toilet paper is not provided in public WCs, and you’ll often find squat toilets (though Western-style are available in most hotels). Hand sanitizer is a traveler’s friend.

Common Visitor Mistakes:

• Overpacking: Kabul stores (like Spinzar or chicken-street shops) sell scarves and modest clothes if you arrive under-dressed. Essentials (tissues, painkillers, band-aids) are sold everywhere cheaply. Bring a light jacket even in summer nights.
• Itinerary Overreach: Many newcomers pack in too much: Kabul itself has more than 2–3 days of activity if you pace it. Trying to cover all of Afghanistan in a short visit will disappoint; pick one region (North or Bamyan day-trips) instead of moving daily.
• Underestimating Culture: Assuming everyone speaks English or overlooks modesty rules can offend. A moment of confusion at a checkpoint is solved by a friendly Dari speaker or show of the permit. Smile and use simple words like salaam (hello) and tashakkur (thank you).

• Misjudging the Weather: Kabul sun is high-altitude intense; hats and sunscreen are advisable, especially in spring/summer. If visiting in winter, know it can snow or freeze, and layer accordingly.
• If Time is Tight (1–2 days): Focus on essentials. Day 1: begin at WAK Hill (overview), spend midday at the National Museum, then afternoon at Babur’s Garden. Day 2: start at Sakhi Shrine, then wander down to the Bird Market and Chicken Street, ending with one memorable Afghan meal. Skip Darul Aman or Istalif if pressed. Accept that much will be missed, but you’ll leave with Kabul’s textures imprinted.

Seasonal Events and Variations

• Ramadan (Calendar Month): Kabul goes quiet in daylight. Most restaurants are closed by mid-morning. Non-Muslim travelers should eat only behind closed doors during fasting hours. At sunset, roadside food stalls suddenly bustle as if an invisible cue struck. Sunset spectators often head to mosques or parks to enjoy the iftar meal with neighborhoods. For a traveler, this can be a cultural spectacle.
• Nowruz (March 21): After Persian New Year prayers (often at Sakhi Shrine), many families picnic in gardens. Babur’s Garden and Zarnegar Park fill with colorful shawls on grass. Street markets sell coins painted with henna symbols, and herbal mixtures for spring cleaning.
• Flower Festival: Every spring since 2018, Kabul held a tulip festival on Shahr-e Naw roads. Tulips (a historically beloved flower) bloom for a couple of weeks, painting medians red, yellow, purple. If your timing is right, the tulip fields can be a colorful respite.
• Buzkashi (Fall-Winter): If you can catch a buzkashi match (herd-loss, a feral horseback polo game) outside the city, it’s a raucous Afghan spectacle. Sometimes small informal games take place in Ghazi Stadium. Riders on horses wrestle a goat’s carcass, and the game can last hours. Popular among Pashtuns, a Sunday match can feel like a national holiday.
• Harvest Time: Late summer brings grape and pomegranate harvests. Kabul’s fruit markets overflow with glossy pomegranates and purple-black grapes. Many locals buy large open trays of grapes to eat all week. Trying fresh grape juice or a pomegranate seeds salad choka is a seasonal treat.

Day Trips & Regional Context

Kabul is a hub for exploring greater Afghanistan. If your itinerary allows, consider:

• Bamyan Province (Day Trip or Overnight): About 220 km west (4–5h by car). Bamyan’s claims to fame are the ruined niches of the Buddha statues (destroyed in 2001) and the Band-e Amir National Park — a series of six deep turquoise lakes amid rugged peaks. Leave early by private car or shared taxi (from Charahi Ansari). In Bamyan town, the Shahr-e Gholghola and Zuhak sites are eerie brick fortresses where the Buddhas once stood. Nearby, Kariz (ancient water channels) still function. For nature lovers, Band-e Amir’s striking lakes (enter for a small fee) allow short hikes and picnics by azure water among snow-melt mountains. A private driver or quick flight (via Kam Air) might fit a same-day visit; an overnight stay (chaikhana guesthouse or new rudimentary hotels) makes it more relaxing. Tip: The lunch of potato curry in Bamyan is unexpectedly memorable — note the cold yogurt-tea sauce over red meat.
• Mazar-i-Sharif & Balkh (Multi-Day): A domestic flight (1 hour) or a 6–7h road trip north. Mazar houses Afghanistan’s holiest shrine: the Blue Mosque (Shrine of Ali). Even non-Muslims are awed by its sky-blue tile dome and vast green courtyard. Surrounding bazaars here are also splendid for shopping (especially if you’re hunting for carpets or silk Uzbeki dresses). The ancient city of Balkh (15 km from Mazar) was Alexander the Great’s Bactria; visit its citadel ruins and the Shrine of Khwaja Abu Nasr Parsa. Culturally, northern Afghanistan is more Tajik and Uzbek, with different flavors: the kabobs are often chicken or lamb on bone.
• Herat (Fly or Overland): The far western jewel. An overnight bus (12–15h) or a flight leads to a city often compared to Isfahan. Highlights: the Friday Mosque of Herat, a vast blue-tiled complex (restored by UNESCO) from the 15th century, and the Herat Citadel built by Timur in the 14th century. Herat is famed for carpets and silk, so shopping here is excellent. The cultural style has Persian influence (Herati dialect, architecture by Safavids). If you’ve time on a longer trip, Herat is a must for historical enthusiasts.
• Kandahar (South) & Beyond: If you can stretch your trip, Kandahar (Taliban heartland) lies south across a 12+ hour drive. But given the region’s complexity, most independent travelers either skip it or join organized tours. (Not recommended for casual self-travelers.)

Transport to these regions is easiest by booking through reputable tour operators in Kabul, or using daily flights from Kabul. Road travel in Afghanistan is adventurous, so booking a comfortable car (with driver) for an overnight trip is wise if you’re not experienced.

Micro-Guides & Practical Deep Dives

Navigating Kabul’s Taxis and Transport

• Hand Signals: Taxi drivers will sometimes honk and slow as they pass; waving one’s hand in the street can flag one down. Always get in from the curb side (never from oncoming traffic side).
• Sharing Tips: If a driver offers a flat rate, it may be negotiable — ask your hotel or a local to confirm average cost. Many rides use a meter, but drivers may reset it in your favor if they see you are foreign (be aware).
• Private vs. Shared: A private cab (a black Toyota or white Mercedes) gives security but costs a few USD per ride. A shared van (often crowded, big van with many passengers) costs pennies but can involve tight quarters. For women alone, private is safer at night; during day a mixed crowd van is usually no problem.
• Bus Station: Large passenger bus terminal is at Deh Afghanan, east Kabul. Buses to provinces (e.g., Bamyan, Mazar) depart early morning. Ask your hotel to confirm times.

Architecture 101: Afghan Styles

• Mughal & Persian: Round arches, domes, and water channels dominate Babur’s Garden. Look for geometric tile patterns and 4-quadrant layouts (charbagh). The Blue Mosque in Mazar and Herat’s Friday Mosque show exquisite tilework and iwans (tall archways) from the Timurid era.
• Islamic Elements: In Kabul shrines, note the Arabic calligraphy and muqarnas (stalactite-like ornament) in marble. Mosques often have one or more slender minarets topped with a crescent finial.
• Soviet Influence: In the city’s communist period (1970s-90s), functionalist concrete architecture arose. The Ministry of Information and Culture is a pinkish Soviet block. Dara Ul-Aman Palace has a hint of Western neoclassicism (built by German engineers). Much of Kabul’s sprawl is hastily built apartment blocks.
• Modern & Post-2001: Since 2001, a few projects adopted international styles: new hospitals, a few malls, and the large US-built “Green Zone” (now mostly deserted). Istanbul and Dubai influences appear in some new hotels. Overall, Kabul is more about history than skyline.

Photography & Dos and Don’ts

Allowed: Landscapes, architecture, street scenes (with permission), traditional sites.
Avoid: Portraits of people without consent (especially women), uniformed personnel, military equipment, and modern political signs.
In Practice: Many Afghans enjoy being photographed; local children often smile for the camera. If unsure, smile and point at your camera, or lift it to show them — their reaction will guide you. Museums and many shrines have signs forbidding photography of exhibits. Always ask before snapping indoors or in private shops.

When to be Extra Cautious: Government buildings (even American-built, like the embassies) often have no-photo signs or cameras around. Do not try to photograph anything with weapons (landmines display, ordnance, armed guards).

Comical Note: A few travelers have reported Taliban fighters themselves wanting selfies. However, since laws are not uniform and enforcement unpredictable, best practice is to be polite and cautious. In any doubt, keep the camera tucked away.

If You Get in Trouble

Understand that legal protections are minimal. The Taliban’s “justice” is arbitrary. If detained or harassed: stay calm, be deferential. Saying you’re a tourist and ignorant can sometimes help. Do not attempt to film the incident or provoke by argument — this risks further trouble. If a friendly Afghan local or driver is with you, ask them to step in (Afghans often have good instincts with Taliban officials).

Consular Aid: Most Western embassies in Kabul are closed; assistance is through Kabul’s “in exile” embassies (Islamabad, Doha) or protectors in neighboring countries. The UNAMA office in Kabul might help foreigners in dire situations. Always keep a card with a reliable contact (like a hotel manager’s number).

Avoiding Trouble: Always carry identification and travel papers. Never criticize the government or display political symbols. Keep a low profile on religious or political discussions in public, especially with strangers.

Working Remotely from Kabul

Internet: Kabul has 4G networks, but speeds vary. Coffee shops rarely offer reliable Wi-Fi. A few international-standard hotels and NGOs have hotspot access. Always use a VPN (essential for secure communication). Power cuts mean bring a laptop charger and backup battery.

Cafés and Co-working: There is no true “coworking scene.” Some travelers have worked in secure hotel lobbies or quiet cafes in WAK (the Serena Hotel lobby has Wi-Fi for guests, albeit expensive drinks). Expect to be occasionally interrupted by questions or stares if you work in public.

Visa Duration: Tourist visas are usually 30 days, non-extendable or only one short extension via official process. Afghan visa rules are unpredictable; don’t plan long projects unless you arrange an education or business visa through formal channels (and be aware these can be denied).

Shopping and Souvenirs

• Carpets & Textiles: Afghanistan is known for handwoven carpets. Shops (like Spinzar or smaller galleries in WAK) sell rugs by size and tribal style (Kabul, Ghazni, Herat, etc.). Quality can vary widely. If a rug is very cheap, it may be machine-made or old; if very expensive, get a certificate of authenticity (Antique vs. new is claimed). Bargain politely — sellers expect some haggling. Keep in mind shipping: rugs are bulky to carry; some shops arrange global shipping at freight cost.
• Lapis Lazuli: Northern Afghanistan is the source of lapis, so this blue gemstone (often set in rings or bracelets) is abundant. Local lapis is genuine, though you can also get imitations. Inspect it in daylight: Afghan lapis is deep blue flecked with gold (pyrite). A seller may coat it, so if the price is high, ask for a weight.
• Other Crafts: Copperware (spun and engraved), leather boots, hand-embroidered bowls and hats (Pakol), and jewelry are also popular.
• Local Markets: For casual souvenirs, head to Zarnegar Market (fruit and fabric bazaar) or “street markets” where women sell vegetables or clothes; these can yield handmade embroidered dresses (kameez) and scarves. If you buy local clothing, the outfit will likely come loose-fitting so get measured or try it on.
• Avoiding Tourist Traps: Always compare one shop to another. If one seller quotes $50 for a silver bracelet, check the next. Many items carry a premium for foreigners. Always get a bill (visa vendors) or a receipt book stamp — keep these if you intend to export anything.

Conclusion: Embracing Kabul’s Complexity

Kabul is not an easy story. It is a city of contrasts — ancient madrassas and modern ministries; cautious eyes and broad smiles; devastation and reconstruction side by side. It challenges first-time visitors with traffic jams and an alertness to security, but rewards them with moments of genuine Afghan hospitality and insight. In Kabul one learns to hold contradictions: to admire a garden built by an invader (Babur) in the morning and by twilight reflect in peace despite living histories of conflict.

The real Kabul that travelers remember is not just the museum facts but the sound of birds in a narrow lane bazaar, the taste of spiced rice shared under a cafe awning, or the calm view from a hilltop at sunset. That blend of sensory details is what turns a checklist trip into a true experience.

For anyone planning this journey, the key is respect and openness. Respect for local customs, laws, and the many narratives of this land. Openness to what might seem strange, and curiosity about the everyday lives that endure here. The city will not surprise you by offering luxury, but it will teach you by quiet degrees about endurance, hospitality, and beauty in adversity.

Kabul can be tiring and maddening — the endless taxi negotiations, the late-night power outage, the grueling permit procedures. But it can also be mesmerizing: the mingled scents of cardamom and coal smoke, the moss-green pomegranates piled high, the songs of revival in a museum exhibit.

Ultimately, Kabul asks of its visitors a certain humility: it is not a showpiece, but a living, breathing metropolis with its own rules. Those who come prepared — with patience, cultural sensitivity, and a spirit of adventure — often depart with something unexpected: an understanding of resilience, and memories that remain vivid long after leaving.