Boat travel—especially on a cruise—offers a distinctive and all-inclusive vacation. Still, there are benefits and drawbacks to take into account, much as with any kind…
Togo, officially the Togolese Republic, occupies a slender tract of West African coastline. Measuring scarcely 115 kilometres from east to west and flanked by Ghana, Benin and Burkina Faso, the nation extends from the Gulf of Guinea in the south to the savannas bordering Burkina Faso in the north. With a land area of roughly 56 785 km² and a population nearing 8.7 million, it ranks among the world’s smaller and less developed countries. Its capital, Lomé, sits at the southern tip, where the city’s broad avenues and lagoon-dotted shoreline belie the more rugged terrains and diffuse communities further inland.
Togo’s landscape unfolds in three distinct zones. Along the 56 km of coast, sandy beaches give way to shallow lagoons and mangrove swamps. Inland, a mosaic of woodland plateaus rises gently to the hills of central Togo; in contrast, the northern region opens onto rolling savanna, where the temperatures climb and rainfall diminishes. Mont Agou, at 986 metres, marks the nation’s highest point, while the Mono River, coursing 400 km from north to south, provides a vital artery for local agriculture and — in wetter seasons — modest river transport.
The climate is uniformly tropical, yet seasonal variation is pronounced. Coastal Lomé rarely sees temperatures below 23 °C, whereas the savanna regions of the north can reach daily peaks of 30 °C or more. Rainfall concentrates in two main seasons: a long rainy stretch roughly from April to July, and a shorter one between September and November. Between these intervals, the Harmattan wind brings dry, dusty air from the Sahara.
Human settlement in present-day Togo dates back at least to the 11th century, when diverse groups established the loose boundaries still recognizable today. From the 16th century, European demand for enslaved labour transformed the coast into a staging ground for human trafficking. The region became part of what was known as the “Slave Coast,” a grim moniker that spoke to the dire commerce in human lives.
In 1884, amid the scramble for African territories, Germany formalized its grip by creating the protectorate of Togoland. German administration spurred the construction of roads, railways and plantations, yet the colonial venture remained exploitative. Following Germany’s defeat in World War I, the League of Nations entrusted the territory to French control. Under France, modern borders took shape; French language and institutions became entrenched.
Independence arrived in 1960, but political stability proved elusive. In 1967, Colonel Gnassingbé Eyadéma seized power in a coup and ruled until his death in 2005, becoming Africa’s longest-serving head of state. His one-party system, however, began to yield to pressure in the early 1990s, when multiparty elections, though flawed, reopened political space. Upon his passing, power transferred to his son, Faure Gnassingbé, who remains president.
Togo’s modest size belies its ecological diversity. The southern forests belong to the Eastern Guinean ecoregion, hosting species characteristic of West Africa’s humid zones. Further north, the land transitions through a forest‑savanna mosaic into West Sudanian savanna. Mangrove stands, marshes and coastal lagoons mark the shoreline. In 2019, Togo’s forest integrity score placed it 92nd among 172 nations, reflecting both conservation challenges and pockets of relatively undisturbed habitat.
Five major protected areas span the country: Fazao Malfakassa National Park in central Togo, Fosse aux Lions and Kéran National Parks in the north, and the Abdoulaye Faunal Reserve. Koutammakou, a UNESCO World Heritage site, encompasses the mud “tower‑houses” of the Batammariba people, set against wooded hills. Wildlife includes forest antelopes, primates and, in the north, one of West Africa’s larger elephant populations.
Agriculture anchors Togo’s economy. Nearly half of the workforce engages in farming; about 11 percent of land is cultivated, producing staples such as cassava, maize, millet and rice. Cash crops — primarily coffee, cocoa and peanuts — account for nearly 30 percent of export revenues. Cotton also features prominently. Constraints including limited irrigation, scarce fertilizers and fluctuating world prices temper yields.
Mining contributes significantly through phosphate extraction — Togo holds the world’s fourth‑largest reserves, yielding over two million tonnes annually. Gold production has risen in recent years, and limestone, marble and salt deposits support cement and other light industries. Overall, industry contributes around one‑fifth of national output, with textiles, brewing and food processing among the activities clustered in urban zones.
Togo’s road network, spanning some 11 734 kilometres, underpins both domestic trade and regional transit. Only 15 percent of these roads are paved; the remainder can become perilously rutted in the rains. Main arteries link Lomé to Burkina Faso, Benin and Ghana, forming parts of the Trans‑West African Coastal Highway. The government, with World Bank and International Road Transport Union support, has enacted new transport legislation to formalize carriers, improve safety and attract investment.
Rail lines, totaling 568 km of metre‑gauge track, once ferried phosphate and local passengers between Lomé and inland towns such as Blitta and Kpalimé. Today the network operates under the Société Nationale des Chemins de Fer Togolais, though service frequency has diminished. River navigation on the Mono is possible only during the rainy months. At sea, the Port of Lomé — Togo’s sole deep‑water terminal — thrives as a regional trade hub.
Togo’s population has grown rapidly since independence, more than tripling between 1960 and 2010. The 2010 census recorded just over 6 million inhabitants; by 2022, estimates approached 8.7 million. Urbanisation has accelerated around Lomé, whose agglomeration now houses nearly 1.5 million people. Secondary cities include Sokodé, Kara, Kpalimé and Atakpamé, each serving as administrative and market centres.
Ethnic diversity is pronounced, with over 40 groups. The Ewe, concentrated in the south, represent around one‑third of the population. Kabye and Tem communities prevail in the north and centre. Other groups include the Mina, Tchamba, Moba and Mossi. French remains the sole official language, used in government, commerce and education; however, Ewe and Kabiyé hold “national” status, promoted in schools and media. Dozens of other tongues enrich the linguistic landscape. Following Togo’s accession to the Commonwealth, the government has encouraged English learning.
Religious practice mirrors ethnic plurality. Roughly half the population identifies as Christian — Catholics forming the largest group, alongside various Protestant denominations. Muslims, predominantly Sunni, account for around 14 percent, while indigenous faiths retain adherents, often interwoven with Christian or Muslim rites. The constitution enshrines freedom of worship, a principle largely upheld in practice.
Art and ritual reflect Togo’s multiplicity. Among the Ewe, statuettes—often portraying twin figures—honour the spiritual twins (ibeji), while wood‑carvers in Kloto fashion slender marriage chains out of a single block. Kloto’s artisans also excel in dyed batiks depicting quotidian scenes. Painter Sokey Edorh captures the vast, arid expanses of the north in works that speak to both place and memory. Sculptor Paul Ahyi mastered pyroengraving (“zota”), leaving monumental installations throughout Lomé.
Music and dance remain vital, from the drumming ceremonies of rural villages to the modern rhythms pulsing through Lomé’s nightclubs. Football commands national enthusiasm: weekends bring league matches in urban stadiums and impromptu games in village clearings. Basketball ranks a close second in popularity, with beach volleyball teams representing Togo in continental qualifiers.
Media outlets include state‑run Togolese Television, private radio stations, print newspapers and the Agence Togolaise de Presse, established in 1975. Independent journalists organize under the Union des Journalistes Indépendants du Togo. Despite budgetary and technical constraints, digital platforms have grown, offering new avenues for expression and debate.
Togo’s slender profile makes it accessible via several routes. Lomé–Tokoin International Airport handles most international flights; Ethiopian Airlines and Royal Air Maroc often offer competitive fares from Europe. Alternatively, travellers may fly to Accra in Ghana and then take an air‑conditioned bus to Aflao, crossing on foot into Lomé. Within the country, taxis (yellow‑plated) and moto‑taxis weave through cities; the latter provide a swift, if less secure, means of short‑distance travel.
Beyond Lomé, destinations of note include Togoville and Aneho. Togoville’s shrines recall the region’s voodoo traditions and colonial encounters; Aneho, once the German and then French colonial capital, offers quiet beaches and relics of 19th‑century architecture. Kpalimé and its surrounding hills have attracted visitors to coffee farms, hiking trails and cooler air. In the far north, Koutammakou reveals the mud tower‑houses of the Batammariba, while Fazao Malfakassa and Kéran Parks promise wildlife sightings far from the beaten track.
Currency transactions use the West African CFA franc (XOF), pegged to the euro at 655.957 CFA = 1 EUR. ATMs of Ecobank and Banque Atlantique accept Visa and Mastercard. Daily costs remain modest: a litre of gasoline costs about 600 CFA, a baguette 175 CFA, local coffee 1 200 CFA per half‑pound, and beer 350 CFA in shops. Voodoo‑related masks, talismans and ceremonial objects form popular souvenirs but command tourist‐adjusted prices in Lomé’s markets.
Safety considerations are real. Road travel outside the main highways demands caution; deep potholes, overloaded vehicles and unpredictable livestock crossings heighten risk. Nighttime is especially hazardous, both on rural roads and in Lomé’s public beaches, where muggings have occurred. Travellers are advised to use car taxis after dark, secure trusted drivers’ contacts, and favour bottled water or boiled juices.
Efforts to modernize key sectors have met mixed results. Structural adjustments in the 1990s devalued the franc and liberalized aspects of trade and port operations. The government embarked on privatizations — in telecommunications, cotton processing and water supply — but political unrest and fiscal constraints slowed progress. In 2024, Togo ranked 117th in the Global Innovation Index, reflecting nascent steps in technology and entrepreneurship.
Agriculture received renewed focus, yet lack of credit and equipment hinders expansion. Mining continues to attract foreign interest, especially in phosphate and gold. The transport sector benefits from clearer regulations governing driver licensure and freight operations, but physical maintenance of roads lags behind legislation. Ambitions to extend rail connectivity and deepen Lomé’s port remain under discussion, contingent on investment and regional cooperation.
Togo stands at a crossroads between inherited challenges and emerging opportunities. Its compact territory encompasses coastal lagoons, forest‑ed plateaus and savanna expanses, hosting a tapestry of languages, beliefs and customs. History’s shadows remain — from the Slave Coast to decades of single‐party rule — yet the nation’s people maintain resilient cultural traditions and entrepreneurial energy. As infrastructure reform, regional integration and diversification of exports advance slowly, Togo’s future will depend on deepening educational opportunities, strengthening governance and harnessing both its natural and human resources. In a West Africa of shifting fortunes, this slender republic offers a study in contrasts: austerity and colour, continuity and transformation, hardship and hope.
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Table of Contents
Togo is a slender strip of land on the Gulf of Guinea, wedged between Ghana to the west and Benin to the east, with Burkina Faso along its northern border. It covers roughly 57,000 km² and has about 8–9 million people (circa 2022). Despite its modest size, Togo’s terrain is remarkably varied: the Atlantic coast at Lomé gives way to palm-fringed lagoons and lagoonine beaches in the south, rising to forested plateaus (the Plateaux Region) in the center, and finally to grassy savanna and red-earth hills in the north.
The capital, Lomé, sits on the coast and is the economic and cultural hub. French is the official language (a legacy of colonial rule), but many local languages (especially of the Gbe family like Ewe) are widely spoken. Togo was colonized by Germany (late 19th century) and later divided between Britain and France after World War I; it gained full independence in 1960. Visitors will quickly notice how this colonial and indigenous history has merged into everyday life—from Lomé’s colonial-era architecture and French-inspired cafés to traditional Voodoo shrines and community festivals.
The country’s compact shape (just about 115 km across at its widest) means distances are short. A drive from Lomé north to Kara (the third-largest city) is only a few hours, for example. Yet within those few hundred kilometers, travelers encounter a patchwork of cultures, languages, and landscapes. From the vibrant markets of the south to the mud-hut villages of the north, Togo’s diversity is woven into its narrow band of land. This blend of lush seaside beaches, tropical forests, and savanna makes Togo a microcosm of West Africa. In sum, the Togolese Republic may be one of Africa’s smallest countries, but it stands out for the range of experiences packed into its gentle hills and bustling cities.
Togo’s greatest appeal lies in its authenticity and variety. Rather than mass tourism, visitors find a country rich in everyday culture, colorful traditions, and off-the-beaten-path sights. Togo is often celebrated as the birthplace of Voodoo, and indeed Vodun practices still thrive here – from roadside shrines to the annual Voodoo festival in January that draws local priests and curious tourists alike. The southern city of Lomé offers a taste of this: its famous Akodessawa Fetish Market is a trove of voodoo artifacts, charms and herbal mixtures. Elsewhere, the legacy of Togo’s peoples shows in spectacular ways.
Quick Highlights:
– The sprawling Grand Marché and quirky Fetish Market in Lomé – ideal for souvenirs and cultural immersion.
– Lomé Beach with its palm-drive seafood eateries.
– Lake Togo and the holy town of Togoville (site of 1884 treaty signing), reached by boat tours from capital.
– Kpalimé’s waterfalls and mountaintop views, and leisurely coffee plantation visits.
– Koutammakou villages with their striking earthen tower homes (a photographer’s delight).
– The Evala wrestlers of Kara showing off their skills each summer.
From riding a moto-taxi through Lomé’s palm-lined streets to trekking a jungle trail in the Plateaux, Togo rewards the traveler who seeks out authenticity. It is not about luxury lodges or flashy attractions; it is about meaningful encounters – an evening chatting under baobab trees, the taste of street-roasted corn, the rhythmic clack of Ewe drums at a village celebration. Those who come for genuine cultural depth and scenic surprises will find Togo full of them.
Travel Tip: Carry photocopies or digital scans of your passport bio-page, visa approval, and travel insurance. Keep them separate from the originals (for example, in your hotel and with a trusted companion). This speeds up replacements if anything is lost or stolen.
Togo’s climate is tropical, with a distinct wet season and dry season. The dry season typically runs from roughly November through March. During these months, skies are sunny and humidity is lower – ideal conditions for sightseeing, hiking and beach-going. Daytime temperatures average around 30°C (86°F), with cooler evenings in the north. Late December to early March is particularly pleasant, as the Harmattan trade wind brings dry air (though it can cause dusty skies). Importantly, many cultural festivities (such as year-end traditional ceremonies and the French-influenced Noël celebrations) occur in the dry season.
The rainy season in coastal Togo is heavy between June and early October, with a short lull in August. Expect brief but intense downpours in the afternoon. Travel during the rains can be challenging: rural roads may become muddy and waterfalls like Womé are at their fullest (spectacular but harder to visit in gear). The central and northern regions see a slightly shorter rainy period but still enough to impact driving. April–May and October–November are transitional periods: rainstorms are possible, but less frequent than midsummer, offering a balance of green landscapes and passable travel.
Summary: For most travelers, the sweet spot is the late dry season (November–March). This avoids the heat peak and downpours, while allowing comfortable exploration from Lomé’s markets to the savannah north. That said, if avoiding crowds is paramount, note that even in the “high season” Togo sees far fewer tourists than neighboring countries. Pack light cotton clothing for the heat, plus a light jacket for cool northern nights. An umbrella or rain jacket is smart if you visit in April–May. Always check forecasts before trekking; heavy rain can sometimes flash-flood valleys and make some hiking trails slippery.
Togo is generally safe for travelers who use common-sense precautions. The greatest safety concerns lie outside the usual tourist zones. The northern region (especially the border area beyond Kande into Burkina Faso) is under a special alert. The U.S. State Department currently advises U.S. citizens not to travel north of Kande due to terrorist activity in the borderlands. Visitors will rarely need to go that far; most itineraries cover Lomé and the central Plateau and Kara regions, which are far from these risks.
In Lomé and southern Togo, violent crime against tourists is rare. The most common safety issues are pickpocketing and petty theft in crowded places. Protect your belongings at markets and on public transport. Do not flaunt expensive jewelry, phones or cash. Taxi passengers should only use official “taxi bleu” cabs with meters, or agree on a fare upfront. As a rule, travel in groups at night and avoid poorly lit or secluded streets. Lonely nights on the beach or in a market area are best avoided.
Travel Alert: Police patrols are visible in cities. If you visit rural villages or remote parks, inform your hotel or guide of your plans and expected return. Carry a local SIM phone or satellite tracker for emergencies.
Other considerations: roadside checkpoints are common on highways; keep paperwork handy (passport copy, ID). Bribes are generally not solicited by tourists, but if approached by officials, remain calm, polite and patient. “Demonstrations and crowds” should be avoided as per standard advice – occasional political rallies occur, and even peaceful ones can disrupt transport. Health risks (malaria, food-borne illness) should not be overlooked: use insect repellent, sleep under nets, and eat freshly cooked food.
Women traveling alone generally report feeling safe, but they should exercise modest caution. Togolese society is conservative; women may get stares, and unwelcome comments can happen, but aggression is uncommon. Dress modestly (cover shoulders/legs in public areas) to show respect. It’s wise to use “buddy systems” after dark – for example, walk with a reputable hotel staffer or stay inside company. Overall, female solo travelers in Togo enjoy warm hospitality, as long as they respect local customs and stay alert.
Emergency services: Memorize or store phone numbers 117 (police), 118 (ambulance) and 119 (fire). Know your embassy’s contact info (e.g., U.S. Embassy Lomé: +(228) 22-61-54-70), and consider enrolling in your government’s travel advisory program. In all areas, adopt a low profile: avoid political discussions, do not carry large amounts of cash, and be ready to yield valuables if confronted (never resist robbery physically). By staying aware and respecting local norms, most visitors explore Togo without incident and return home with only fond memories.
By Air: The main gateway is Lomé–Gnassingbé Eyadéma International Airport (code LFW). Airlines serving Lomé include Air France (via Paris), Turkish Airlines (via Istanbul), Brussels Airlines (via Brussels), Ethiopian Airlines (via Addis Ababa), and some African carriers (Kenya Airways, ASKY, etc). Direct flights from neighboring capitals like Accra (Ghana) or Dakar (Senegal) are less common, so most long-haul visitors connect through Europe or a major African hub. LFW is a modern airport with ATMs and currency exchange; petty cab service is available right outside. Expect some queues at immigration for visa/passport checks.
By Land: The busiest land crossing is at Aflao/Lomé on the Ghana–Togo border. Overland buses run from Accra to Lomé daily (usually departing early morning, ~4–5 hours). At the border, travelers can purchase a Togolese visa (if eligible) before entry, but note the on-arrival visas have been phased out. Cars and shared taxis also travel between Lomé and cities in Ghana (Cape Coast, Kumasi). On Togo’s east, a busy road links Lomé to Cotonou (Benin) via the Hilla Kondji border; buses and coaches serve that route. Beware: Border formalities can be disorganized on both sides; pack passport photos and extra copies of documents just in case. Driving through requires visa and sometimes vehicle import permits.
From Burkina Faso, the route runs from Ouagadougou to Dapaong (Togo’s northern hub) then south to Kara/Lomé. This journey can take two days by public transport and travels through remote areas. Given security alerts in that far north, most independent travelers avoid the Burkina crossing unless on an organized tour.
By Sea: Togo has no passenger ferry service. Lomé’s port is commercial only (exports phosphate, cotton, etc.). If arriving from Nigeria’s east coast, one would have to sail to Lagos or Cotonou, then continue by road.
Entry Requirements: All travelers need a visa and proof of Yellow Fever vaccination. The visa e-application is available online through the Togolese government portal (see “resources”). Officials will check your vaccination card upon entry. Carry printed visa approval, round-trip tickets, and accommodation info to smooth immigration. Customs duty applies if you import large sums of currency (limit ~10,000 USD).
In summary, Lomé is by far the easiest entry point. Land crossings work for regional travelers, but plan ahead on visas and border hours. Flights from Europe are generally more convenient for long-distance visitors.
Togo’s transportation options vary by region, but in general travel is slow-paced. Roads are narrow and can be bumpy, so plan extra time between towns. Here’s an overview of how to get around:
Tip: Domestic flight options are virtually non-existent. If you need to cover distance (e.g., Lomé to Dapaong in the north), look into private charter flights (rare and expensive) or plan an overnight road trip.
In short, Togo’s transport is simple and communal. Bush taxis and moto-taxis dominate short and medium distances. Just give yourself time, savor the scenery, and be ready for a few slow moments on the road – that is part of travel here.
Lomé is the vibrant heartbeat of Togo. Here the Gulf of Guinea meets bustling city life. Key highlights include:
Lomé is also a gateway to nearby attractions: just east of the city on Lake Togo is the sacred town of Togoville (reachable by taxi or boat), and 30 km northeast is Aného, a historic town of former capitals and colonial ruins.
A two-hour drive northwest of Lomé, Kpalimé (often spelled Kpalimé) is a peaceful town surrounded by green hills and coffee and cocoa plantations. It’s the capital of the Plateaux Region and an outdoor enthusiast’s base. Notable features:
Kpalimé also has a few comfortable hotels and guesthouses, making it a great overnight stop. Many travelers go on day trips from Lomé to Kpalimé, but it’s worth staying longer. Mornings in town see colorful markets and chilled-out cafes. This area epitomizes Togolese countryside life – slow, green, and welcoming.
Heading north from the Plateaux, the savanna of central Togo leads to the city of Kara (pronounced “KAH-rah”). Kara is smaller and drier than Lomé but rich in traditions:
For most foreign travelers, Kara is a transit stop or festival destination. Accommodations range from basic guesthouses to a handful of mid-range hotels. Roads north from Kara wind through baobab trees into the Koutammakou region (below), but do not venture further without guidance.
The Koutammakou – Land of the Batammariba is a UNESCO-listed cultural landscape straddling the Togo–Benin border. Here, ethnic Batammariba people (known as Somba) live in villages of conical, red-mud homes called Takienta. These structures, built with wood and clay over generations, are ingenious: they are cool in the heat and easily repaired. The villages of Takienta, Ogaro and Tchalo in Togo are representative examples. In 2004 Koutammakou was inscribed as a World Heritage site for these unique dwellings and the traditional agrarian lifestyle that sustains them.
Visitors typically reach Koutammakou from Kara or Mango. From Kara, prepare for a long drive on mostly dirt roads (best with a guide or sturdy vehicle). Accommodations are extremely basic: some travelers hire village homestays. Local tourism associations occasionally arrange community-led tours, which is the most respectful approach.
While touring Koutammakou, one will observe sacred shrines and farms of sorghum or millet on cleared hilltops. Photographers and anthropologists treasure this area’s authenticity. Out of respect, always ask before entering a family compound. Elder women in village capes weaving cloth or children tending goats offer intimate cultural encounters. Note that English is rare here; a guide or translator helps.
Beyond architecture, Koutammakou is also known for ancestral worship and colorful Mask dances (performed at harvest festivals). The Batammariba are deeply spiritual, viewing each home as inhabited by family spirits. Small wooden statues and totem poles dot the villages. Visit with sensitivity: treat all objects with care and refrain from stepping on or through any altars.
If your time is very limited, you can visit the Togolese entry village of Takienta on a day trip from Mango or Kara, but most visitors who go north do a multi-day excursion. This is among the most remote highlights in Togo – a chance to see an entire way of life preserved.
The brackish Lake Togo (Lac Togo) is a long lagoon north of Lomé, fringed by swamps and fishing villages. The town of Togoville, on the lake’s southeastern shore, is a fascinating stop. Togoville was the site where King Mlapa III signed the treaty ceding Togoland to Germany in 1884 – a historic moment. Today, the town combines Christian and Vodun heritage: its European-style churches sit beside sacred voodoo groves.
Lac Togo Attractions: Boat excursions are the main draw. Common trips include: (1) Ganvie d’Océan: a tiny village of stilt houses built by fishermen in the middle of the lagoon; (2) Lake islands such as Adakpame and House by the Lake, visited for natural scenery and village life; (3) Togoville itself, reachable by slow 30-minute boat ride. Men carve the long canoes here; women sell smoked fish on the shore. The best time to go on the water is late afternoon, when winds calm and fishermen return.
Togoville: Spend time walking its quiet streets. Highlights include: Notre-Dame des Apôtre, a Gothic church over a hundred years old; and the Vodun Mami Wata shrine, a small grotto where locals pray for water spirits. There is a preserved Slave House (Maison des Esclaves) with blackened walls – a reminder that Europeans also held local captives here. Togoville is picturesque with bougainvillea and palm-lined avenues. It is safe, but money changers may press you to exchange currency at poor rates – if you plan to purchase crafts or boat tickets, pay in CFA.
After visiting Togoville, many travelers enjoy dining on fresh Lake Togo tilapia, cooked whole over charcoal in nearby lakeside restaurants. The villages along the lake shore (such as Aplahoué and Tokpli) have peaceful beaches and sunset views.
Fazao-Malfakassa National Park is the crown jewel of Togo’s wildlife areas. Covering nearly 1,920 km² of central Togo’s forest-savanna mosaic, it is the country’s largest protected area. Created in 1975 by merging two reserves, the park now shelters an impressive array of animals and plants. Over 240 bird species have been recorded here, including rare forest hornbills and the white-crested helmetshrike. Antelopes (such as bushbuck and waterbuck), baboons, warthogs and even forest elephants roam the grassy hills and gallery forests.
Most travelers reach Fazao (pronounced “fa-ZOW”) via Sokodé (the nearest city) or Atakpamé. There are no luxury lodges: accommodations are basic, ranging from tented campsites to simple eco-lodges and ranger stations. Wildlife viewing is best done with a local guide and 4×4 vehicle. The park’s eastern sector (Malfakassa) has rugged hills and old growth, whereas the western Fazao area is more savanna-like with clearings. Each morning, rangers arrange guided game drives or hikes – these offer a good chance to see birds and sometimes track larger mammals.
Hiking in Fazao requires sturdy boots: trails climb granite outcrops and cross rivers (seasonally). The park is also being considered for World Heritage status due to its undisturbed nature. For dedicated wildlife enthusiasts or birders, this is Togo’s best safari experience. Offroad travel means the journey is slow, but the reward is solitude amid Africa’s lesser-known bush. Do not visit without hiring a guide or contacting park headquarters first, as some areas are restricted.
East of Lomé lies Aného, once known as Andretta under the Germans. This coastal town (about 40 km from Lomé) was a key slave port and the capital of German Togoland. A visit here is a stroll through history:
Aného today is sleepy and safe, with a few guesthouses and palm-thatched inns. Its solemn cemeteries and nearby forests (where Togolese forces once fought in World War I) are for serious history buffs. The town serves as a reminder of the Atlantic slave routes that once flowed through this region – a history much discussed by guides but visible in these old stones.
Togo’s Gulf coast offers calm, palm-fringed beaches—distinct from the busier shores of nearby Ghana or Côte d’Ivoire. Key beach areas include:
No matter where you go, remember that lifeguards are virtually non-existent. Never swim alone or after dark. Also watch for glass or debris in the sand. The reward is worth it: soft golden beaches where the horizon is just tropical sky and gentle waves.
For those who love the outdoors, Togo’s plateaus and mountains offer rewarding day hikes and waterfalls:
If your interests are mountainous or jungle adventures, regionally-guided tours (Kpalimé-based outfitters or community guides in the north) are recommended. They provide transport and ensure you don’t lose your way.
3-Day Express: A brief visit focuses on Lomé and the immediate environs.
1. Day 1: Lomé Highlights. Arrive in Lomé, check into your hotel. Spend the morning exploring the Grand Marché and Independence Monument. In the afternoon, visit the Fetish Market and the Notre-Dame Cathedral. Enjoy dinner at a beachside restaurant and a relaxed evening walk along the coast.
2. Day 2: Togoville & Lake Togo. Take a boat across Lake Togo to Togoville (30 min). Tour the town’s shrine and cathedral, learn about King Mlapa’s treaty, then have a lakeside lunch of grilled fish. Return to Lomé via the Mô river (or taxi via the lagoon road). Evening flight or overnight.
3. Day 3: Aneho or Kpalimé. Option A: Drive east to Aneho (1 hr) to see the slave fort and colonial Aného, swim on its quiet beach, then return to Lomé. Option B: Drive northwest to Kpalimé (2–3 hr). Hike to Womé Falls or climb Mount Kloto for views. Then head back to Lomé for your departure.
7-Day Classic: This covers diverse regions.
1. Days 1–2: Lomé & Souvenir Hunting. See Lomé’s markets and monuments as above. Day 2 morning or afternoon, head to Lake Togo for a boat trip (including Togoville). Return by night or stay at a beach lodge.
2. Day 3: Plateaux via Kpalimé. Drive to Kpalimé (2–3 hr). Explore Kpalimé town, visit local artisans, then hike Womé Falls. Overnight in Kpalimé.
3. Day 4: Mount Kloto & Agou. Morning climb of Mount Kloto; afternoon drive to Mount Agou base village. Option to hike partway up Agou. Stay in a village guesthouse.
4. Day 5: North to Kara. Journey north to Kara (4–5 hr). En route stop at Atakpamé (central market) and a roadside rest. Evening in Kara – stroll the market or see a local dance performance.
5. Day 6: Kara and Culture. If timing allows (July), watch the Evala wrestling. Otherwise, tour the surrounding Kabye villages or head further to Mango (edge of north). Overnight in Kara or Mango.
6. Day 7: Return to Lomé. Drive back to Lomé (5–6 hr) with stops (maybe in Aného on the way back if missed). Fly out or spend another night.
10-Day In-Depth: Perfect for thorough exploration.
1–2. Same as Days 1–2 above (Lomé and Lake Togo).
3–4. Kpalimé & Plateaux. Day 3 travel to Kpalimé; Day 4 explore mountains and waterfalls.
5. Fazao-Malfakassa Park. Drive to Sokodé, enter Fazao Park. Safari by 4×4, guided hikes, camping under the stars in the park (arrange in advance).
6. Kara & Evala. Return via Kara. If in July, join Evala rituals; otherwise, tour Kara’s cultural sites.
7. North Adventure. Continue north to Koutammakou area (via Mango). Stay in a Batammariba village (homestay). Tour mud-houses, learn local agriculture.
8. More North or Return South. For the adventurous: attempt a border trek to Yikpa Falls (with guide). Else, start heading back south, overnight in Kara.
9. Coastal Towns. Spend Day 9 seeing Aného and Togo’s old capitals. Relax on the beach at Aneho. Return towards Lomé.
10. Final Lomé. Relax in Lomé or take a city tour. Wrap up with shopping and a farewell dinner. Depart.
These itineraries assume private car or driver for ease. Public transport (bush taxis) can hit these points more slowly, so factor extra days if relying on them. No matter the length, allow flexibility: local schedules and weather may prompt an impromptu change – a hallmark of West African travel.
Togo’s culture is a tapestry of ethnic groups, each with distinctive customs. The largest group (about one-third of the population) is the Ewe in the south; others include the Mina, Tem (Kotokoli) in central regions, and Kabye in the north. French is the official language, but dozens of indigenous languages are spoken daily (especially Ewe in the south and Kabye in the north).
Togolese culture is ultimately characterized by warmth and resilience. Despite economic hardships, people celebrate life together through food, music and ritual. Travelers who engage respectfully will find many doors open for authentic exchange – a far cry from formal tours.
Vodun holds a special place in Togolese life. Unlike the exoticized Western notion of “voodoo,” Togolese Vodun is a traditional African spiritual system centered on ancestors and nature spirits. Many Togolese trace their heritage to Vodun. Every village typically has a shrine (often under a sacred tree) where offerings of liquor, fruit or snake meat are made to spirits. These practices were once suppressed under colonial rule but have experienced a renaissance post-independence.
Major Vodun deities include Mami Wata (water goddess, often represented by a mermaid statue) and Gu (the spirit of metalwork and war). The annual Voodoo Festival (January 10) in southern Togo features large gatherings of priestesses and priestesses in vibrant costumes, chanting and making libations. Outsiders can respectfully observe such ceremonies to learn about this worldview. Visiting the Fetish Market in Lomé is another window into Vodun: vendors here sell talismanic objects used in rituals (but note that the sale of wildlife parts is illegal and declining under conservation laws).
In practice, many Togolese blend Vodun with Christianity or Islam. It is common to see a family say a prayer in church and later light a candle at an ancestral shrine. The tolerance for Vodun is high: in 2021 Togo passed a law officially recognizing Voodoo as a part of national heritage. As a traveler, approach Vodun with curiosity rather than judgment. Avoid calling it witchcraft or using shock imagery. Instead, acknowledge its importance to identity and community well-being.
Togo’s calendar brims with community events. Key festivals include:
If your visit coincides with one of these, it’s a golden chance to witness Togolese pride and joy. Even without festivals, weekly markets and church gatherings provide lively local color.
Etiquette in Togo emphasizes respect, politeness and adaptation. Keep these customs in mind:
Etiquette Note: In Togo, a friendly nod of the head or a handshake is more respectful than a broad smile when greeting. The subtleties of courtesy here are key to making friends.
By following these customs, travelers show their appreciation of Togolese hospitality and avoid unintentional offense. In turn, locals will often go out of their way to be generous and helpful.
Togo’s food is hearty, spicy, and communal. Key dishes to sample include:
Where to eat: In Lomé, the coastal neighbourhood of Avenue de la Paix (near the grande plage) hosts several ocean-view diners, while the Grand Marché area has local cafés serving plates of grilled fish, goat meat skewers and bowls of fufu. For a quick bite, ask for “assiette composées” (mixed plates of meat/vegetables and starch) at small restaurants. In Kpalimé or Kara, try roadside eateries (“maquis” or “cantines”) for grilled pork sausages and fresh fruit juice.
Togo also has some French and Italian-influenced bakeries. A sweet highlight is akassa, a type of cornmeal pudding often eaten with sauce d’arachide (peanut sauce). For dessert, sip on bissap (hibiscus tea) or bouye (baobab fruit juice).
Food safety tip: Eat at busy stalls (turnover means freshness) and peel all fruits or veggie shells. Always wash hands before meals.
Lomé and the main cities have the best hotel infrastructure in Togo. Choices range from modest to upscale:
In general, lodging tends to prioritize essential comfort over luxury. Many places only have generators (sometimes just evenings) and spotty Wi-Fi. If venturing outside Lomé, I recommend bringing a good mosquito net (especially up north) and a sleeping pad/earplugs (for local life noises).
Togo’s markets and workshops are a great source of handmade mementos:
When shopping at markets, remember: prices are often double the local rate for strangers. Bargaining is part of the culture, so politely haggle. At artisan cooperatives (in Lomé or Kpalimé), prices may be fixed but you are directly supporting the craftsperson. Refrain from buying real medicinal talismans or wildlife parts. Instead, focus on items that celebrate Togolese artistry and carry memories of your journey.
Togo can be very family-friendly, especially in tourist areas.
Togo offers enriching experiences for all ages – from educational market visits to nature explorations. Traveling in a group simply means splitting costs of drivers and guides, which can make logistics smoother. Group travelers should still follow local customs: teach children basic greetings (Togolese kids admire when foreigners try to speak Ewe or Kabye) and ensure everyone adapts to the relaxed West African pace.
Travelers going it alone, including women, can enjoy Togo safely with the right precautions. In general, Togolese people are hospitable and helpful. However, Western women may still attract extra attention (and catcalling) in cities. Keep this in perspective as mostly harmless, but firmly ignore any harassment and move on. It’s wise for solo female travelers to:
Having at least a phrasebook or translation app helps when asking directions (English is not widely understood). Togo’s transportation system (shared taxis) is communal, so you may find yourself sitting next to friendly locals on a long drive – they are usually respectful and sometimes curious about foreign travelers.
Finally, keep family or friends updated on your plans. Register with your embassy if your country offers it. Overall, there have been no recent reports of targeted attacks on solo women in Togo’s cities. Many female travelers note feeling safe enough to dine alone or walk to markets during the day. Just use common caution – it’s the same basic advice one would follow in any developing country. Togo’s peace and charm often outweigh worries: travelers are frequently surprised by how secure and welcome they feel once acquainted with local rhythms.
Staying healthy in Togo requires planning:
Practice common-sense health habits: rest often if the heat is intense, use sunscreen, and wash hands frequently. Most travelers stay healthy by taking these precautions. If you do fall ill, seek help early at a clinic. Pharmacies can dispense basic medications, but more serious cases should go to city hospitals. With prudent measures, the serious health risks in Togo can be largely avoided.
Togo is one of West Africa’s more affordable destinations. Your daily spending will largely depend on travel style:
A reasonable daily budget (excluding flights) is approximately:
– Shoestring: 20–30 USD per person (simple guesthouse, local food, bush taxis).
– Moderate: 50–80 USD (nice hotel, some tours, mid-range restaurants).
– Comfort/Luxury: 100+ USD (international-standard hotel, private car, upscale dining occasionally).
Cash is king. ATMs in Lomé and major cities dispense CFA, but they may cap withdrawals (~100,000 XOF) and charge a fee (~3–5 USD). Notify your bank before travel, and have at least one backup card. Smaller towns may have no cash machines – so carry enough CFA for the next day’s expenses. While tipping isn’t mandatory, leaving a bit (500–1,000 XOF) for good service in restaurants or 10% to guides is polite.
Sample costs: A simple hotel room ~15,000 XOF ($25); a mid-range meal ~7,000 XOF ($12); a shared taxi in Lomé ~1,000 XOF ($2); a guided trek ~20,000 XOF ($35) per person. With planning, your money will stretch. Always keep some extra emergency cash (USD or euros) hidden separately.
Togo’s evenings are relaxed but can be lively, especially in Lomé. After dark:
Togolese nightlife is geared towards the middle class – think family-friendly bars and social clubs. Solo travelers should exercise the same caution as at day: keep an eye on drinks, avoid flashing cash, and know how to call a reliable taxi at night. Night buses do not run, so arrange rides back to your lodging. With these in mind, nighttime in Togo can be a fun window into urban West African culture.
Travelers to Togo have a unique opportunity to give back and tread lightly. Here are some principles to follow:
Quick Tip: Volunteer Opportunities: Visitors interested in giving back might consider short volunteer programs (e.g. English teaching, building projects) run by local charities or international organizations. Even spending an afternoon helping at a village school can be rewarding – just arrange this through a vetted group.
Practicing sustainability in Togo not only preserves the country for future generations of travelers, but it also deepens the quality of your own trip. Many locals will appreciate your efforts to respect their home, making interactions more genuine.
By keeping these resources handy, travelers can handle emergencies more easily and navigate Togo’s logistics smoothly.
These tips will help you travel confidently in Togo. Ultimately, keep an open mind and a friendly demeanor. Togolese cities bustle and slow-villages charm – and meeting the people will be the trip’s real reward. Enjoy every moment of discovery on this diverse and welcoming land!
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