Eritrea occupies the southern shore of the Red Sea in the Horn of Africa, extending between latitudes 12° and 18° N and longitudes 36° and 44° E. Bordered by Sudan to the west, Ethiopia to the south, and Djibouti to the southeast, its 117 600 km² encompass a narrow, hot coastal plain—home to the Dahlak Archipelago and Hanish Islands—and rugged highlands reaching 3 000 m. A branch of the East African Rift bisects the nation, its eastern escarpment marking the rift’s western wall. Western lowlands drain into the Nile via the Atbara, while the Barka River flows northward into Sudan. Southwestern savannas form part of the Sahelian Acacia expanse, contrasting sharply with highland woodlands and rainforest at Filfil Solomona, where annual rainfall exceeds 1 100 mm.
Human occupation dates back a million years through hominid remains, and by the first or second century AD the Kingdom of Aksum had arisen across modern Eritrea and northern Ethiopia. Christianity took root by the mid-fourth century, and from the twelfth century the Ethiopian Zagwe and Solomonid dynasties claimed authority over plateau and coast, with the Mereb Melash governed by the Bahr Negus. Ottoman forces seized the shoreline in the sixteenth century, followed by Egyptian control in 1865, then Italian colonization from 1885 to 1942. British administration during World War II prefaced a ten-year federation with Ethiopia; annexation in 1962 prompted armed resistance, culminating in de facto independence in 1991 and a 1993 referendum that affirmed statehood.
Contemporary Eritrea is officially a unitary one-party presidential republic, led by Isaias Afwerki since independence. No national elections have been held, and criticisms of the government’s human rights record remain among the severest worldwide. Eritrea participates in the African Union, United Nations, and Intergovernmental Authority on Development, and holds observer status in the Arab League. The State of Eritrea also sits on the United Nations Advisory Committee on Administrative and Budgetary Questions and engages with institutions such as INTERPOL, the World Customs Organization, and the World Bank’s IBRD and IFC.
With nine recognised ethnic groups, Eritrea is richly diverse. Afroasiatic speakers predominate—Tigrinyas constitute roughly half the populace, Tigre around thirty per cent, alongside Saho, Kunama, Nara, Afar, Beja, and Bilen communities—while Nilotic Kunama and Nara preserve Nilo-Saharan tongues. The constitution accords equality to all languages; Tigrinya, Arabic, and English function as working languages. Arabic endures among Rashaida and Hadhrami communities, and a unique Italian-Tigrinya patois persists in Asmara. Most citizens adhere to Christianity or Islam, though estimates vary: one source places Christians at 63 per cent, Muslims at 37 per cent, with traditional faiths and other religions collectively under one per cent.
Eritrea’s climate divides broadly into temperate highlands, subtropical midlands, and tropical lowlands. Highland temperatures peak around 30 °C in May and drop to 10 °C by December, while coastal zones may exceed 40 °C in summer. Rainfall patterns shift dramatically with altitude and season, yielding soil erosion in some areas and luxuriant montane vegetation in others. In 2006 the government pledged to protect its entire 1 347 km coastline and 350-island archipelago as an environmental zone. Yet a 2022 study warned of high adaptation costs for climate change impacts, underscoring the nation’s vulnerability.
Economically, Eritrea remains among the world’s least developed states. Its GDP stood near USD 2.1 billion in 2020 (USD 6.4 billion PPP), with growth tapering from over 30 per cent in 2014 to an anticipated 2.8 per cent in 2023 amid global shocks. Mining and agriculture contributed roughly one-fifth of GDP in 2021, remittances about 12 per cent, and tourism under one per cent. Visitor arrivals reached 142 000 in 2016, buoyed by Asmara’s Art Deco heritage and the Dahlak Islands. A twenty-year tourism plan aims to leverage cultural and natural assets, though Eritrean Airlines ceased scheduled service in July 2023, leaving Ethiopian and Turkish carriers as principal links.
Transport infrastructure weaves highways, narrow-gauge rail, ports, and airports into a fragile network. Roads fall into primary (fully asphalted), secondary (single-layer asphalt), and tertiary (improved earth) classes, the latter often impassable in rains. The colonial-era railway from Massawa to Asmara, built 1887–1932, endured wartime damage and closure by 1978, but partial restoration since 2003 now offers intermittent service—steam excursions for enthusiasts among them. A coastal highway exceeding 500 km and post-war asphalting projects under the Wefri Warsay Yika’alo initiative have further knit together the nation.
Eritrean culture is woven from millennia of oral traditions, theatre, and visual arts, shaped profoundly by the independence struggle. The coffee ceremony remains central: freshly roasted beans yield three brews—awel, kalaay, bereka—symbolising hospitality and blessing. Dress varies by region and faith: Tigrinya highlanders favour white gowns (zurias) or ensembles, while lowland women select vivid fabrics. Cuisine mirrors Ethiopian dishes yet leans on seafood, tomatoes, and Italian influences—pasta al sugo e berbere, lasagna, cotoletta alla Milanese—alongside injera and spicy stews. Honey wine (mies) and barley brew (sowa) complement daily life.
Asmara, the modern capital since colonial times, earned UNESCO World Heritage status on 8 July 2017 for its exceptional collection of Art Deco, Futurist, Modernist, and Rationalist architecture. Designed largely by European architects yet built by Eritrean artisans, the city preserves a unique urban fabric that speaks to a complex colonial legacy and enduring local identity. Buildings dating from the late nineteenth to mid-twentieth centuries stand in cohesive neighbourhoods, forging a living museum that continues to shape Eritrea’s cultural narrative.
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Nestled on the Horn of Africa, Eritrea is one of the world’s least visited countries – and among its most enchanting. This small nation still wears the imprint of a vanished era: Art Deco downtowns unchanged since Italian colonial days, hilltop monasteries cloaked in mist, and Red Sea islands free of crowds. Asmara, the capital, earned UNESCO World Heritage status for its extraordinary 1930s and 40s architecture. In recent years, adventurous travelers have discovered that the old airport’s runways and wide boulevards form a kind of living museum. The city feels frozen in time, yet with warm cafes and gelato bars serving espresso in the modern, local way. Eritrea’s quiet streets, military-era relics, and wide plazas invite calm exploration rather than frenetic sightseeing.
Even as world attention focused elsewhere, Eritrea has quietly preserved a unique identity. Its blend of Italian colonial vestiges, ancient African traditions, and Red Sea culture makes it feel like a hidden chapter of history. Visitors speak of an almost surreal peacefulness – nearly no crime, unhurried people, and a palpable spirit of hospitality. Solo travelers and couples are finding they can wander market lanes and remote highland trails safely. Despite cold war-era paranoia and the “North Korea of Africa” label sometimes applied in headlines, daily life for tourists is ordinary and, remarkably, friendly. The stiff visas and permit rules add structure but also signal that Eritrea is not yet mass‑market. With only a trickle of organized tours allowed, the country feels secret and untouched. In short, Eritrea rewards those willing to prepare a little more. Its blend of rugged independence, striking scenery, and cultural depth makes it a stunning choice for an offbeat African adventure.
Almost every foreigner needs a visa to enter Eritrea. Kenya, Uganda, and Ethiopia are the only countries whose citizens do not require visas. (Past exemptions for Sudanese travelers have been rescinded; now all visitors must secure approval first.) For most, the process begins with either an Eritrean embassy or an official tour operator. All visas must be arranged in advance – simply showing up at the border rarely works anymore. There are two main routes:
Fees and Timing: In either case, count on paying about $70 USD for the government fee plus minor extras, and arranging the visa at least 4–6 weeks before travel. Some travelers report using expedited visa services or sending documents to Addis Ababa (before the Ethiopian Airlines suspension), but direct embassy application in your own country is best if possible. Make sure to get two copies of your LOI or visa paperwork, as checkpoints often retain one copy when you travel inside Eritrea.
Recent Changes: Note that Ethiopian and Sudanese nationals now follow the same rules as other foreigners: a prior LOI is required. (Citizens of Ethiopia once enjoyed visa-on-arrival due to the post-war travel boom, but that ended after 2024.) Likewise, travelers cannot expect to pick up a casual visa on landing unless pre-arranged. Also, we strongly advise against purchasing a tourist visa for Eritrea as a standalone product. Stick to reputable agents or official channels, as errors can lead to being turned away at the airport.
Nationalities and Special Cases: A handful of nationalities (mostly Africans in neighboring countries) receive no visa or visa-on-arrival privileges. But Western passports of the U.S., EU, Canada, Australia, etc., always require pre-clearance via embassy or LOI. Dual citizens (e.g. Eritrean-Americans) should travel on a non-Eritrean passport to avoid mandatory exit visa complications (see below). Every visitor must hold a passport valid for at least 6 months, with at least two blank pages. Yellow Fever vaccination certificates are only needed if you arrive from a yellow fever–endemic country (most of Africa or South America); most travelers entering from Europe or the Middle East will not need one, but carrying it may help if your itinerary loops back through Africa.
Valid Visa Length: Tourist visas are usually good for 30 days of stay. Some visitors get extensions at the immigration office in Asmara if needed (often in 30-day increments). The visa itself is typically valid for entry within three months of issue. Make sure to calculate your dates carefully. Dual citizens or Eritrean nationals need special handling. If you hold Eritrean citizenship in any form, you must enter on an Eritrean passport or national ID, or else risk being charged visa fees meant for foreigners. Exit visas are required if you entered on Eritrean citizenship; this mostly affects diaspora who use their home country passports. (If in doubt, consult your embassy.)
Arrival Procedures: Asmara International Airport (ASM) is compact. Expect immigration officers to verify your visa and LOI. Be ready to declare any electronics (by serial number) and foreign currency amounts over USD 1,000. They will stamp your passport and possibly issue a small orange Customs declaration form for anything to be taken out. Cameras and phones must be declared on entry (keep the receipts if you buy new gear). Insist on receipt for any dollars or nakfa you buy – authorities will ask for all receipts at departure. After immigration, luggage is generally not searched unless suspicion arises. You may find shops selling local sim cards and bottled water in the arrivals hall, though prices are high.
Exit Visas: Ordinary tourists using a foreign passport do not need a separate exit visa. However, U.S., EU, or other dual-nationals who entered on an Eritrean passport or national ID will encounter an exit visa system. In that case you must apply for an exit visa at immigration (with photos and a fee) before departure. In general, to avoid hassle carry only your non-Eritrean passport.
In short: plan well ahead, secure your visa through proper channels, double-check embassy info, and carry copies of all documents. Once the entry puzzle is solved, you can enjoy Eritrea free of crowds.
Travel within Eritrea is tightly regulated. Tourists may visit Asmara city freely, but any trip beyond the immediate environs requires official permits. In practice this means if you want to leave Asmara at all, you must obtain a travel permit from the Ministry of Tourism in Asmara.
The Ministry of Tourism has two offices in Asmara (one on Liberation Avenue/Harnet Street, the other at Asmara Airport Road near the Ministry of Transport). As soon as you arrive, most travelers head directly to one of these offices (usually the Harnet Street office is open daily, including Saturdays) to apply. The process is handled on a first-come, first-served basis. You must fill out forms in person, specifying each town or site you plan to visit (e.g. Massawa, Keren, Filfil, Qohaito, etc.). You need to present your passport and visa, and pay roughly 200 Eritrean nakfa (about $13) for each permit. (As of 2025, this is the standard price per destination.) In addition, if you wish to visit the famous Tank Graveyard outside Asmara, that permit is a separate line item (about 50 nakfa). You will be asked your exact travel dates; permits are normally issued for one or two days per destination.
Processing is usually quick but may require waiting until later the same day or the next morning. You will receive a physical permit document – make at least two photocopies before heading out, because police and hotels will routinely ask for a copy. Carry them with you at all times outside Asmara. Hotel receptionists will also want to see travel permits before check-in in many towns. Road checkpoints are frequent; officers will request to see your travel permit and may hold it briefly.
Permit Coverage: With one permit you can usually visit the listed town and nearby attractions. For example, a Massawa permit (issued for a given date) covers access to Massawa city and also the Dahlak Archipelago islands if you go by boat that day. A Keren permit similarly covers Keren and nearby highland sites. However, anything beyond what is listed (for instance, taking a detour to Senafe after Keren) technically requires a new permit. In practice, the authorities mainly focus on the big items: No permit means no travel outside Asmara, period.
Restricted Areas: Some regions are off-limits entirely to foreign tourists. These include anything within 25 kilometers of the borders (especially the Ethio-Eritrean and Eritrea-Jebel Elba borders), parts of the Southern region near Ethiopia, and certain military zones. Even if you try to venture without a permit, you will be stopped by police or the military. Stick to the approved list of destinations: Asmara, Massawa (and Dahlak), Keren, Mendefera/Dekemhare, and the historical sites like Qohaito or Adulis (with a guide). Every other area requires special government approval that is generally not granted to casual travelers.
2025 Public Transport Update: In late 2024 Eritrea began tightening rules on independent travel. The Tourism Office has become known to deny permits for tourists using public minibuses. In practical terms, foreign visitors often find that bus travel between cities is effectively barred. Officials have told many travelers that the only way they can legally move between towns is by private car or an organized tour vehicle. Thus foreigners usually hire private taxis or drivers for intercity trips. Rental cars exist (with drivers, usually), but a foreigner must obtain a temporary Eritrean driver’s license first (see Transportation section). Independent backpacker-style bus trips are now nearly impossible unless you join a fully escorted tour.
Permit Violations: Traveling without a permit is risky. The usual consequence is being turned back at the next checkpoint or fined (permits cost so little that fines are not severe, but you would lose travel time and face harassment). Eritrean checkpoints are widespread; you may pass a dozen on a single highway. Most will wave you through if your permit is in order, but if you lack one, they will not let you continue. Always declare your itinerary accurately at the permit office. If you change plans, try to obtain an updated permit rather than forging new routes.
Summary: Think of travel permits as the Eritrean government’s way of knowing exactly where each tourist is at all times. Before venturing beyond Asmara’s outskirts, stop by the Ministry of Tourism, list each town you will visit, pay the small fee, and get the paper. Then you can explore destinations like Massawa, Keren, Dahlak, Filfil and even remote ruins with full compliance. The extra effort is part of travel here – but after the permit is in hand, you’re free to enjoy the sights legally and with locals’ goodwill.
Eritrea’s dramatic range of elevations – from cool highlands to blazing Red Sea coast – means the climate can vary wildly by region and season. A common local phrase is “three seasons in two hours,” reflecting how a quick drive from Asmara (7,600 ft above sea level) to Massawa (sea level) takes you through temperate, tropical, and desert climates. Understanding Eritrea’s seasons will help you pack and plan:
Given these patterns, peak travel season is roughly December through early March. If you aim for more comfortable weather and active city life, target those months. Shoulder periods of November and April/May work too, though be prepared for hiking trails and rural roads to be trickier as rainfall increases. If your priority is a Red Sea dive or beach holiday, April-May might be ideal (before the worst heat, with underwater visibility good).
Climate Notes: Asmara’s altitude moderates its climate: average year-round is 16°C (60°F). Even summer high temperatures in Asmara rarely exceed 32°C (90°F). By contrast, Massawa’s annual average is 30°C (86°F), with mild winters (Dec-Feb days ~30°C) and brutal summers. If venturing into the Southern lowlands or Danakil Depression (the lowest land on Earth), extreme caution is needed during May–Sept as those areas can reach 50°C (122°F). Most tourism avoids Danakil entirely.
What to Pack: Layered clothing is wise. In Asmara, daytime wear can be the same as most tropical climates, but you’ll want a sweater or jacket for nights if visiting November–March. A wide-brimmed hat, sunscreen and sunglasses are essential year-round, especially for lowland excursions. Rain gear (light jacket or poncho) becomes critical if you travel in July or August – storms can be sudden. Sturdy walking shoes are a must for ruins and mountains; flip-flops or sandals for beach and around cities. Modest dress is recommended for cultural respect: carry a scarf or sarong to cover shoulders when visiting churches or mosques. If visiting during winter, a light puffer or fleece and a windbreaker will suffice for Asmara, but a thicker coat is not needed.
Seasonal Events: Eritrean holidays follow a calendar similar to Ethiopia’s. Christmas and Epiphany (January) see special services at Orthodox churches. Easter (usually April) has processions (when travel is allowed). Ramadan (dates vary) means if you visit Muslim areas during that month, plan to eat before dusk (restaurants may serve until sunset). Independence Day (May 24) brings parades in Asmara – a loud but orderly celebration of the war’s end in 1991. Overall, Eritrea’s calendar has fewer festival days than many tourist hotspots, which means less fluctuation in accommodation cost, but local customs should be observed.
In summary, the optimum window for most foreign visitors is late autumn through spring. This avoids the hottest rains and ensures full access to all areas. With clear skies and brisk air, you’ll find Eritrea easy to explore on foot, by car, or on water – and in comfort.
Crime and Personal Safety: Eritrea is widely regarded as very safe for tourists. Petty crime such as pickpocketing or mugging is extremely rare. Travelers regularly report walking the streets of Asmara or Massawa at night without worry. Asmara’s cafes and markets feel peaceful even after dark. U.S. and European advisories do not highlight crime levels, and solo travelers – including women – say they feel secure. The worst infractions encountered have been simple local dishonesty (overcharging or taxi disputes) rather than violence. Nevertheless, common precautions apply: keep an eye on belongings at busy markets, and use the front desk safe for passports and valuables if available.
Solo Female Travel: Eritrea is conservative but not hostile to women travelers. Female visitors find locals courteous; harassment is uncommon. In mixed company, women are expected to wear clothing covering shoulders and knees, especially outside Asmara. At night, Asmara is lit and populated enough that local women often walk home from cafes in groups. If you do hike or travel to remote areas, consider going with others or using a local guide. There are no local laws restricting women’s travel; the main advice is respectful attire to avoid drawing unnecessary attention.
Restricted Border Areas: The regions near Ethiopia and Djibouti borders are off-limits. Specifically, avoid any roads or villages within 25 km of the Ethiopian border (often marked with signs or soldiers). The border with Sudan is also closed for tourists (no passport stamp or crossing). The only way to access the land around Asseb or Badme is on official convoy or Eritrean military transports, which is far beyond normal tourism. Stick to the approved tourist routes (Asmara, Massawa, Keren, etc.) unless you have explicit permits.
Photography: Eritreans enjoy having their photos taken, and many public monuments are open for pictures. However, photographing military, government or industrial sites is sensitive. Do not snap pictures of soldiers on duty, government buildings, police checkpoints, or airports. The rusting tanks at the Tank Graveyard in Asmara are an exception – there, photography is common. If unsure, ask permission. Always be polite, and show images on your camera to curious locals as a gesture. Drone photography is not allowed.
Political Environment: Eritrea is a one-party state with tight control on dissent. For tourists this means: keep political opinions to yourself. Avoid discussing Eritrean politics, internal security service, or Ethiopia conflicts. Criticism of the government is considered defamation. Even local jokes or remarks about price controls can be unwelcome. The general rule is: smile and focus on culture. Fortunately, Eritreans are famously shy about their national politics, so they’ll rarely invite the topic. Respect their pride and war history when conversing.
Health and Emergency Services: Medical facilities are basic. Asmara has a couple of hospitals and pharmacies with only fundamental care. Outside the capital, expect even less: a rural clinic may only offer first aid. Travelers should bring any necessary medications. It is strongly recommended to have travel insurance that covers medical evacuation. In case of an emergency, ask hotel staff to call an ambulance or take you to the hospital. If you have severe conditions (e.g. heart problem, severe asthma), consider carrying a doctor’s note in case language barriers impede explanation. Water safety is low (see Health section below), so most travelers experience at most mild stomach upset if careful.
Natural Hazards: The main environmental risk is heat. In summer, coastal regions and deserts can reach life-threatening temperatures. Never underestimate dehydration; carry water and electrolytes if hiking. Road driving can be hazardous in rainy season: after heavy rains the roads can wash out, and visibility can be poor. Earthquakes can occur in the Red Sea rift zone (Asmara area has mild tremors every few years). Volcanic activity exists only in Danakil (Erta Ale volcano, off-limits to most). No recorded hurricanes or cyclones. Landmines remain a danger in unsurveyed areas, but they are well-marked and tourism does not venture off-road. Just stay on official trails and roads.
Transportation Safety: Road travel deserves caution. Many highways are single-lane, with hairpin turns and steep drop-offs (especially the Asmara-Massawa road). Driving standards vary; casual overtaking is common. If you hire a car, insist on a driver with local experience. Speed limits are often ignored by locals, and livestock or broken vehicles can appear without warning. Foreigners should never drive after dark outside Asmara – visibility and lack of street lighting make this dangerous. Similarly, avoid unlicensed taxis at night. For intercity travel, stick to pre-booked private vehicles or hotel-arranged transfers.
Overall Assessment: Despite occasional strictness, Eritrea’s safety record is strong. Petty theft and violent crime are nearly non-existent. Health infrastructure is limited but not a danger for short stays. The biggest threats tend to be the bureaucratic ones: fines for paperwork issues or confiscated electronics if you do not declare them. A well-prepared traveler who respects local laws will find nothing in Eritrea as unsettling as what they left behind at home. It has been called “North Korea of Africa,” but for tourists it is closer to “an orderly, friendly time capsule.”
Asmara International Airport (ASM) is Eritrea’s gateway. Once Air Eritrea’s hub, it now handles only foreign airlines. As of 2025 the only regular passenger flights are:
There are no direct flights from major African cities into Asmara. Addis Ababa flights by Ethiopian Airlines were a lifeline from East Africa until September 2024, when Ethiopian Airlines suspended Asmara service due to a banking dispute. Relations have chilled, and there are no flights from Nairobi or Addis as of 2025. Equally, no flights from Nairobi or other sub-Saharan cities currently operate. Historically, flights from Rome or Milan existed via charter, but none regularly now. The Eritrean national airline (Air Eritrea) is effectively dormant for passenger routes.
Flight Tips: Book tickets well in advance, as seats can fill on peak travel days. Turkish Airlines often offers promotional fare tickets with a free stopover in Istanbul if booked early. Likewise, EgyptAir promo fares via Cairo are possible. Emirates (via Dubai) does not fly to Asmara, so tourists must switch to FlyDubai. If coming from the US, direct connections are limited: the fastest route is typically via New York to Frankfurt or London and then a separate flight to Istanbul or Cairo, then onto Asmara. Conversely, some travelers fly to Addis, then take Ethiopian to some Middle Eastern hub and reroute, but the Addis to ASM leg is no longer active.
Land Borders: For now, Eritrea is essentially closed overland to tourists. The 2020 peace with Ethiopia has not yet led to reopened crossings. The Eritrea-Ethiopia border is still officially shut. There is no legal route from Ethiopia or Kenya. Likewise, the Eritrea-Sudan border is closed. The one nominal crossing is Djibouti, but in practice Eritrea has no functioning road border there for tourists. (Merchant trade and military convoys occasionally use Eritrean ports via Djibouti, but not foreigners.)
If you are an adventurous independent traveler, options to combine Eritrea with other countries are limited. For instance, one could fly into Cairo, visit Egypt, then take an EgyptAir flight to Asmara. Or fly into Jeddah and onward. Tourists sometimes consider flying into Sanaa, Yemen, and taking a small boat to Dahlak islands, but Yemen’s security situation makes that plan impractical. Effectively, only air travel connects you. That means the key hubs for entry/exit are Istanbul, Cairo, Dubai, and Jeddah. Plan your itinerary around these flight corridors.
Airport Experience: Arrive at least 2–3 hours before your flight, as Asmara’s small airport can be slow on immigration days. Expect to process in the terminal with Eritrean officials carefully checking your visa or LoI. They will inspect your passport and immigration forms. You must fill out customs declarations before leaving the airplane. The airport has limited amenities: a currency exchange booth, small shops, and a café. Only after immigration will you find a café or small restaurant (usually not very clean, so better to eat onboard). ATM machines do not exist; visitors must have cash.
Local Transportation from Airport: The distance from Asmara Airport to downtown is short (5–6 km). Official airport taxis are available; agree a fare in advance (about 50–70 Nakfa). If you pre-arranged a hotel pickup, confirm your driver via phone/text. Walking is possible in fine weather, but with luggage or at night it’s not comfortable. There is no Uber or official airport shuttle. Taxis will not use meters for foreigners, so the rate is negotiable. Hotel drivers typically charge 25–40 Nakfa (plus tip) to central Asmara. Keep small notes handy to avoid long change hunts.
Entering By Land: Given the closed borders, there is no legal way for tourists to enter by road from anywhere. Formerly, travelers occasionally flew to Addis and crossed via repatriation flights or agreements, but with the diplomatic break that route ceased. Stay updated in case of future openings, but as of 2025, ignore overland entries. The only exception is Eritrean citizens returning home, but tourists should plan solely by air.
In summary, your best bet is to think of Eritrea as an island for travel planning: book a flight via Istanbul, Cairo, Dubai or Jeddah, and fly in and out on that. While that means doubling back often, you can make multi-destination trips (e.g. visit Cairo on a round-trip through Asmara) if desired.
Eritrea uses the nakfa (ERN), a currency introduced in 1997. As of 2025, the official exchange rate is tightly fixed by the government at about 1 USD = 15.00 ERN. This peg was changed in 2017 (previously fixed at 1:18) to eliminate the black market exchange. Today the black market is effectively gone; visitors cannot rely on finding a “better” rate on the street. In fact, currency is strictly controlled.
Exchanging Money: Best practice is to bring US dollars or euros in cash. There are no ATMs for international cards in Eritrea. Credit cards are not accepted (except some international hotels might take USD/EUR on the books, but locals do not accept plastic). You must exchange cash into nakfa at official locations. The first place to do this is at the airport (there are two exchange offices right after baggage claim). They accept USD, EUR, GBP, and several regional currencies. You will get the official rate of roughly 1:15 (which is fair). Alternatively, Himbol (the national bank) counters and some banks in downtown Asmara exchange currency, usually at the same official rate. Hotels do exchange dollars as well, albeit often giving a slightly worse rate or charging a fee. When leaving, you must change any remaining nakfa back to USD/EUR (the airport has a changing desk for that; you cannot carry nakfa out of the country beyond a small limit).
No ATMs, No Debit Cards: Plan to carry all cash for your trip. Once you arrive, you cannot withdraw more money from abroad. There are some Western Union and MoneyGram offices that Eritrean residents use, but not open to tourists easily.
Carrying Cash: U.S. Government advises not to travel with more than $5,000 in cash, but realistically you might need somewhat more if your trip is long. At minimum, visitors often carry $500–$1000 in USD, depending on trip length. AT the fixed rate, $1000 is 15,000 nakfa, which buys a decent week in Eritrea. There is a currency export limit: you cannot take more than 1,000 nakfa (about $65) out of Eritrea in nakfa notes. Any extra remaining nakfa must be exchanged back to USD or Euros before leaving. Declarations are strictly enforced.
Costs and Budget: Eritrea is not exactly cheap for foreign tourists, because you must pay in hard currency for many things. Yet it is not outrageously expensive either. Here is a rough breakdown of typical daily costs:
Water and Hidden Costs: The steep water price (20–25 nakfa per liter) means bottled drinks add up. Unlike many countries, tap water is not safe to drink, so factor in daily water costs. Another hidden cost is tipping or being overcharged: always double-check taxi fares or ask locals for fair rates. There are no tipping norms except for good service in restaurants (10% if you remember).
Banking and Money-Laundering: Credit card fraud is virtually unknown here, but also credit cards are useless. All spending is cash. There is technically a limit of $10,000 for undeclared foreign currency, but no one travels with that much. Just declare any large bills at entry. If your nakfa runs low unexpectedly, you must get more US$ from home; on-site alternatives are nonexistent.
Summary: As a rule of thumb, plan on carrying enough cash for all your expenses. A medium-budget traveler spending at local restaurants and comfortable hotels might need $100–$150 USD per day (1500–2250 nakfa). On a tight budget using guesthouses and cooking some meals, you could manage $50–$75 (750–1125 nakfa) daily. Credit cards and ATMs won’t save you – every purchase in Eritrea goes through your pile of cash. Track exchange receipts diligently to avoid problems at departure.
Money can be frustrating in Eritrea, but with a bit of effort it’s manageable: change dollars early, split them into small bills for everyday use (you can’t break $100 easily), and always have a bit of nakfa on hand for taxis and tips. This way, you’ll get through the trip without mid-stream panic.
Finding a room in Eritrea is not as simple as booking online. Major hotel reservation sites (Booking.com, Expedia, etc.) list only a handful of properties, and often at inflated prices. In practice, planning ahead is wise. Most visitors either book through their tour operator or contact hotels directly by phone or email well before arrival. If your plan is independent, try to confirm lodging at least a few weeks in advance, especially in peak season (Nov–Feb). Many hotels do not take international credit cards, so they require payment on arrival.
In Asmara, your choices span luxury to basic:
Meal inclusions: Many hotels include breakfast (usually Italian-style eggs, bread, coffee). Half-board is rare; expect to pay extra for lunches and dinners at hotel restaurants (often pricey by local standards).
Wi-Fi and Services: Wi-Fi is available only in some hotels, often for an extra fee and usually slow. A few places (like Ambassador and Asmara Palace) offer decent internet for email and messaging, but nothing like streaming video. Ask about Wi-Fi if it matters. All hotels will have hot water by 6pm (thanks to generator-powered boilers) but during daytime off-peak hours showers may only yield cold water.
Outside Asmara, options dwindle:
Booking Tips: Email hotels for confirmation, and mention your travel plans (dates, number of nights). If you find a phone number, calling works well but be prepared for language barriers (Italian or English generally at main hotels). Walking in on arrival is an option in Asmara, but in smaller towns it’s risky: prime rooms may be taken and availability is not guaranteed, especially on weekends and holidays.
Finally, laundry services exist at most mid-range hotels (about 100–200 nakfa per load), so you don’t need to pack 10 days of clothes. Tipping is not mandatory but leaving a small 5–10% gratuity for good hotel staff is appreciated.
Once inside Eritrea, moving between sites requires planning. Here are the main options in 2025:
Asmara City: The most charming way to explore Asmara is on foot. The downtown is compact, with wide boulevards like Liberation Ave and Itiyopis Street lined with sights at a stroller’s pace. Many travelers spend days strolling to gelato shops, the market, and museums. Even outside the center, Asmara’s grid is walkable with safe sidewalks. When you’re tired, taxis are plentiful. Official black-yellow taxis run fixed routes (much like old colonial buses): for example, a blue taxi might run from the central station to Cinema Impero. You can hail one and pay a flat fare of 10–20 nakfa for short hops. Alternatively, motorbike taxis (usually pretty safe) will carry you for 5–10 nakfa.
Taxi Etiquette: Always agree on a price in advance (especially if the meter is off). Taxis may try to board multiple passengers on a route unless you negotiate otherwise. If you prefer privacy, ask the driver not to pick anyone else up and be willing to pay a bit more. Nighttime fares can double after 10pm. No Uber or app-based services exist, so rely on street taxis or hotel-arranged cabs.
Buses and Minibuses (Public): As of 2025, foreigners finding and boarding long-distance buses is very difficult due to permit policy changes. Local buses still run on fixed schedules (for example, daily from Asmara to Keren, Mendefera, Massawa), but tourists cannot easily obtain the required permits to ride them. Even if you manage to buy a ticket, police may stop the bus and check permits, forcing you out. Thus public bus travel is effectively off-limits for solo tourists.
However, historically the routes have been: – Asmara–Massawa: A scenic 100 km trip through ghats (takes 3–4 hours on the Asmara-Massawa road). Used to depart early mornings. – Asmara–Keren: About 100 km west via highlands, 3 hours. – Asmara–Mendefera/Dekemhare: 45 km south (1.5 hours). – Inter-city minibuses: Shorter routes like Asmara–Bisha mine, Asmara–Mai Temenai, etc.
With permit enforcement, they now rarely take tourists. Only locals crowd these.
Private Car and Taxi Hire: This is now the main way foreigners travel between cities. Standard practice is to hire a private taxi with driver for the day (price around $100–$150 per day). You tell the driver your itinerary and he will wait while you sightsee, handling everything. These drivers are usually trustworthy and speak some English. Many run through Asmara hotels or official taxi ranks. Alternatively, renting a car through a hotel is possible: but foreigners cannot legally drive without a special Eritrean license. In practice, a traveler could obtain a temporary Eritrean license at the Transport Ministry (for 6 months validity) – but this requires a city license photo, a fee (~$30), and a plate number for your car. It’s a lot of bureaucracy and not popular. Instead, car rental shops (e.g. Globe Rent Car in Asmara) broker vehicles but always with driver. Self-driving is effectively not an option for tourists.
Railway: Eritrea once had a 400 km narrow-gauge steam train from Massawa to Asmara. Today, only a short segment from Asmara to Nefasit (26 km) runs occasionally as a heritage attraction. The train fills up on demand: you need a group of about 15 people to book it, costing roughly $50 per person for the one-way trip. It is not a reliable mode of daily transport; it runs only a few times per month when arranged. If you love vintage travel, seeing it pre-booked (ask your hotel or tour operator) is a delight.
Dahlak Archipelago (Island Transport): To reach the Dahlak Islands, you must go via Massawa. There are no public ferries – only private boats chartered through tour agencies. The usual pattern is to hire a motorboat from the coast (often arranged by your guesthouse) to take you snorkeling and camping on an island. Typical boat fees are $150–$200 per person for a 2-day trip, including guide and gear. Marine transport around the archipelago is all by local boats (primitive vessels, but fun). Always check safety and lifejackets before embarking.
Miscellaneous: There are no internal flights (Eritrea is too small for domestic planes). Motorbike rental for tourists is not offered. Bicycles are the national mode of transport, but while Eritreans cycle everywhere, foreigners almost never do, partly due to permit issues. (Once in a while, fit tourists bring their own bicycle from home to ride the city streets. Outside towns, cycling is not allowed without special permission.)
Summary: Plan to go slow and embrace the car life. Once on the road (in your taxi or tour van), you can cover the country at ease. Distances: Asmara–Keren ~100 km, Asmara–Massawa ~115 km, Asmara–Mendefera ~60 km. Allow three hours for each, given the mountainous terrain. Always travel in daylight. Regularly check the state of the single main highways (they are decent asphalt, but watch for military checkpoints). Filling up on water and snacks before leaving town is wise. With these logistics clear, you can focus on the landscapes rolling by: foggy plateaus, banana farms in the valleys, jagged eroded mountains.
Eritrea’s variety astonishes. This section outlines the essential destinations and attractions that any serious visitor should include.
Asmara is the crown jewel, a citywide museum of 1930s architecture. Designated a UNESCO site, it features an unparalleled array of Italian modernist buildings. Key highlights include:
Asmara is best taken at a gentle pace. Allow at least two full days (or more) to savor these sites. Evening strolls and neighborhood cafés form a huge part of the charm – Asmara really comes alive at twilight, when the neoclassical lamps glow on the piazzas and the smell of baking bread drifts out of bakeries.
Massawa lies on a hot stretch of coastline, 115 km from Asmara. For centuries it served the Ottoman Empire and later the Italians as a strategic Red Sea port. The result is a unique architecture and island-fling atmosphere: flat coral stone houses, wooden balconies, and even cannons from past wars. Key attractions:
Getting There: The drive to Massawa via the twisting mountain road is one of the most scenic in Africa (and leads you down through the three climates). It descends from 2400m in Asmara to sea level in 2 hours, through zigzags and red basalt cliffs. If you prefer not to self-drive, high-end taxis or tours cover it. Alternatively, from Ghinda junction at 1350m, a newer road runs southeast (15 km) to Ghindae, then turns north along the coast road. Taxis to Massawa from Ghindae are common and cheaper than from Asmara.
Overnight: If you spend a night, choose a hotel in downtown Old Town to feel the pulse of the evening breeze, or stay at a resort south of town for resort comforts. Remember, Massawa is intensely hot after morning, so schedule sightseeing for early or late day, and enjoy a mid-day dip in the pool or sea.
Just offshore from Massawa lies the Dahlak Archipelago: a group of over 100 largely uninhabited coral islands. This marine wilderness is one of the few places in the world where you can camp on a pristine Red Sea beach and snorkel abundant reefs without a crowd.
A trip to Dahlak is often cited as a highlight of Eritrea – its combination of desert island and coral reef is rare. If you’re a diver or simply love beach solitude, allocate at least two nights to do Dahlak properly.
Keren, 85 km northwest of Asmara, is the second-largest city. Lush surroundings and cultural mix make it a lively stop. Highlights:
Keren is much more accessible by car than by bus now (buses still run there from Asmara morning and evening). It makes a fine one-day trip from Asmara (tour drivers often do Asmara→Keren→Asmara in a day). For culture and markets, give it a morning or afternoon to explore fully.
Hidden among mountains south of Keren lies Qohaito (Metera), an archaeological treasure once capital of the pre-Aksumite kingdom of D’mt (c. 800–400 BCE). Visiting here is a step into deep history:
North of Keren lies the lush Filfil forest, Eritrea’s largest protected nature reserve (the so-called “Green Belt”). It features:
This “green magic” comes as a surprise after traveling through desert. For nature lovers, Filfil is one of Eritrea’s highlights, especially in spring when wildflowers bloom on the hills.
These secondary destinations are farther afield and involve more planning, but worth mentioning:
In Practice: Most visitors spend the bulk of their time in Asmara, Massawa, and Keren/Filfil. Dahlak adds an island getaway. Qohaito can fit if you are doing a focused northern tour. Trying to see everything requires a longer trip (7–10 days at least). Each site is in many ways self-contained – local drivers and guides are usually eager to serve, and permits are straightforward for these main spots.
Whether admiring a daring Art Deco facade or snorkeling in coral, Eritrea’s top destinations span millennia and continents of culture. Take your time at each, and you’ll feel as if Eritrea itself is slowly revealing its secrets.
Travel in Eritrea is as much about meeting its people as seeing its places. This section covers customs, language, and social norms so you connect respectfully and meaningfully.
Diverse Ethnic Tapestry: Eritrea is home to at least nine ethnic groups. In the highlands around Asmara and Keren, the Tigrinya people form roughly half the population. In the west and lowlands live the Tigre and Kunama groups, and in the east the Saho and Rashaida. Each has its own language (though all regional languages use the Geʽez script) and traditions. However, modern Eritreans generally speak Tigrinya or Arabic as a lingua franca, so conversing in one of these will carry you far. Many also know English, especially younger people and those in tourism or government jobs.
Language Etiquette:
– Tigrinya Basics: Even a few words will endear you. “Selam” means “hello” (literally peace). “Kemey alleka/alleki?” (How are you?) is a common greeting. “Yekenyeley” means “thank you,” and “Inkiyu” means “sorry/pardon.” People will appreciate any attempt at Tigrinya pronunciation, so practice.
– Arabic: On the coast and in Muslim areas, Arabic (particularly the Sa’idi or Sudanese dialect) is common. “As-salamu alaykum” (peace be upon you) is the formal greeting among Muslims; the reply is “wa alaykum as-salam.”
– Italian remnants: Among the older generation in Asmara, Italian phrases pop up in menus or conversations (due to 40 years of Italian Eritrea). Basic Italian such as “grazie” (thank you) may be understood.
When addressing locals, be polite: use titles like “Aboy” (father), “Ate” (elder sister), or “Selam” prefixed to a name. Smiling and nodding go a long way. Try not to force conversation about controversial topics – keep it friendly and general (food, family, architecture, etc.). Eritreans are often quiet and reserved; they may not volunteer much personal info. But once conversation opens, they can be warm and hospitable.
Religion: Eritrea officially practices freedom of religion, with most Christians (about 50% mainly Orthodox Tigrayans) and Muslims (around 40%, mostly Sunni). In the Highlands, you’ll see both Orthodox churches and Catholic/Coptic churches near mosques; they stand apart in peace. Dress modestly when entering any place of worship: shoulders and knees covered is a good rule. Women may be asked to cover their hair in mosques (men must wear a hat, women a scarf). During call to prayer, Muslims will stop for ablutions and prayers – just watch respectfully and avoid loud behavior.
Clothing: Eritreans’ daily wear is typically conservative. Women often wear long skirt-and-blouse or simple dresses, with a white zuria (sheath-like dress) for special occasions. Men wear long pants and shirts, sometimes a tunic. Tourists should follow suit: light, loose clothing covering arms and legs is wise in villages and religious sites. Asmara is more relaxed – in cafes you’ll see a few women in sleeveless tops, but it’s safer to at least drape a shawl if indoors. On hot days (especially on the coast), modesty is still valued; consider sarongs for beach visits.
Gestures and Greetings: A handshake is the common greeting among men (use right hand). Between a man and woman, wait to see if she offers her hand first, or greet verbally “Selam” with a slight bow. Smiles, eye contact, and the Tigrinya word “yekenyeley” (please/thank you) convey politeness. Pointing with a whole hand (not index finger) is more respectful. Never show the soles of your feet in a sitting group.
Hospitality: Eritreans are famously hospitable. If you are invited into a home, it’s customary to accept a cup of coffee or tea – it’s considered rude to refuse. Even on the street, people may beckon you to sample food or drink. If uncertain, having a small gift (chocolates, coffee, or sweets) to share on first meeting is a nice gesture, though not required. When eating or being served food, try a bit of everything offered. Eritreans will admire a foreigner who treats their cuisine as delicious or spicy.
Coffee Ceremony: This is central to Eritrean social life. Often in villages or families you will be offered a formal coffee ceremony. The host roasts green coffee beans on a pan, then grinds them and boils in a clay pot (jebena). The ceremony typically yields three small cups of espresso-like coffee (often with sugar, sometimes salt or butter in rural areas). Each round is called abol, tona, and baraka. Women usually run the ceremony; men might bring a small gift if invited. Etiquette: When served, wait for the host to say “yehenki” (here it is) before sipping. It’s polite to thank them and to lightly clink cups if you can without spilling. You may refuse after the first two rounds; the third is optional. The leftovers may be poured on the ground as libation. Participating is an honor – accept it graciously if invited.
Photography: Most Eritreans don’t mind tourist photos of landmarks and themselves. However, always ask permission first before taking someone’s portrait, especially women and children. It’s polite to show your subject the picture afterwards. Never photograph military personnel, sensitive sites, or anything that feels private. If in doubt, put your camera away and ask a local companion.
Political Sensitivity: Again – stick to neutral topics. Jokes or criticisms about the government, national service, or border conflicts are unwelcome. Even asking directly about Eritrea’s politics is taboo. Locals will steer clear of these discussions. Instead, focus on culture, history, food, and positive aspects of their country. If someone volunteers a political opinion (which rarely happens with strangers), listen quietly and do not argue.
Dining and Interaction: Eritrean meals are social. If you’re dining with a local family or at a traditional restaurant, they might serve communal platters on injera. Always use the right hand to pick food (no utensils). Chew quietly and slowly, and accept any food items dropped on the injera before you. It’s customary to stay seated until the host indicates the meal is over (often by clearing plates).
Pace of Life: Expect a slower tempo. Eritreans value patience and formality. Appointments and schedules can be flexible. Bus and taxi drivers may loiter or negotiate fares extensively. Instead of pushing, go with the flow – it is simply the Eritrean rhythm. Even if you have a tight timetable, allocate extra time for bureaucracy and travel.
By following these guidelines—dress modestly, greet with respect, accept invitations gratefully, and avoid proselytizing—you will find Eritreans warm and helpful. Cultural etiquette is key to unlocking genuine hospitality. Listen, smile, and honor local customs, and you’ll return the kindness they inevitably show.
Eritrean cuisine shares roots with Ethiopian cooking, yet has its own unique flavors. Meals are typically communal and built around injera, the large sourdough flatbread (made from teff or sometimes sorghum). Here’s what to expect and taste:
Vegetarian/Vegan: Eritrean cuisine is very friendly to vegetarians. On Orthodox fast days (many Tuesdays and Fridays, plus Lent, etc.), no meat or dairy is eaten, so restaurants serve pure veggie stews (yellow split peas, lentils, beans). You can easily find a filling vegetarian platter, and even most Eritreans can go vegetarian for a few days a week. If you are vegan, remind the cook to hold the butter (niter kibbeh) and yogurt; soured milk (leben) is also popular to add to dishes like shiro.
Food Safety: Eritreans tend to cook food thoroughly, so eating cooked street food or café dishes is usually safe. However, raw salads or uncovered produce can carry bugs, especially outside big cities. Stick to bottled water, and avoid ice cubes unless made from filtered water. Fresh fruit juices are tasty but should be from peel-your-own fruits (or ask the vendor if they wash produce with iodized water). At a restaurant, check that utensils are hot/clean (most places rinse thoroughly).
Dining Venues: The standbys in Asmara include: – New Fork Restaurant: Open patio, international menu plus local staples. – Dama Tecle/Paradiso: Upscale Italian-Eritrean dishes. – Arba Lijay: On Harnet Ave, known for local food and coffees. – Coffee House (Aleku): For chic ambiance and dessert. – Street side Mesob restaurants (round woven basket tables) serve traditional platters of injera.
In Massawa: – Al Sunway Restaurant: By the old port, seafood specialty. – Royal Hotel Restaurant: Nice setting on the water. – Local grills around the corniche for lunch lunch (try grilled chicken or fish with salsa).
Alcohol: Eritrea is not a dry country, but alcohol is modestly priced only at hotels or specialized bars. The national brew is Asmara Lager, a light German-style lager (local beers are safe to drink). Imported spirits (vodka, whiskey) cost a lot (taxes). Wine (the best-known is Vitis by Asmara Brewery) is available in major hotels. In Muslim areas (and during Ramadan), avoid public drinking or celebrations.
Overall, eating in Eritrea is a pleasure: spicy, robust, and communal. Even if you don’t speak the language, enjoy the experience of feeding yourself with injera right from the platter. Sit among locals, sample new flavors, and you’ll soon find your senses indulged by this rich cultural cuisine.
Beverages are integral to Eritrea’s social life, from morning coffee to evening beer. Here’s what to expect:
Coffee (Buna): Eritrea shares the Ethiopian coffee heritage. Everywhere you look in Asmara you’ll find cafes puffing espresso-style coffees. The Eritrean version of an Italian macchiato is often called simply “macchiato”: an espresso “stained” with a drop of milk. Strange to Europeans is the Eritrean tradition of a black macchiato – actually a cappuccino with extra foam but no sugar, named for its dark mark. Cafés like Coffee Bean, Bilal, Coffee Museum, and Empire Cafe serve these. Also try the kolo (roasted barley snack) that often comes with coffee.
Coffee is drunk throughout the day. Small informal stands sell it on street corners. In a restaurant, ordering a “large coffee” (in local terms) might get you a 10 oz cappuccino for ~15 nakfa. In home style jebena ceremonies, coffee tastes stronger, earthier.
Tea (Shai): Black tea with milk and sugar is widely drunk, especially in the morning and with food. Shai bertu (green tea with mint) is common in the afternoon for refreshment, as mint grows everywhere. Bottles of Iced Tea (various brands) and canned soft drinks (e.g. Sprite, Pepsi) are available in shops; they cost around 10–15 nakfa each.
Alcoholic Drinks: Eritrea has a liberal approach to alcohol (outside conservative communities). – Beer: Asmara Brewery produces Asmara Lager (pale, mild) and Asmara Stout (darker). These are widely available. One bottle (600ml) costs ~30–40 nakfa ($2.50–$3). In Asmara, you might see folks sipping beer at sidewalk tables by noon. Imported beers (Tusker from Kenya, Corona from Mexico) may appear in high-end bars. The Imperial Hotel in Asmara has a lively bar, as does the Ambassador Hotel. – Wine: The brewery also makes a wine brand called Vitis. Generally it’s low-quality, but a glass of red or white (if the hotel stocks it) runs about 50 nakfa (~$4). Cheaper spirits (gin, vodka) are rarely seen outside big hotels. In Asmara you might find a well-hidden wine shop in the Ambassador complex. Near the coast, Jebena Coffee Bar in Massawa sells imported spirits and cocktails to sailors and locals. – Local Liquor: Outside urban areas, people sip Araqi, a strong date or grain spirit made locally. It’s illicit to sell in shops, but some villages distill their own. Avoid trying this unless you trust the source – potency is high and quality unpredictable.
Non-Alcoholic Cultural Drinks: – Buna Buna (Coffee Leaf Tea): Less common than Ethiopian, but a warming herbal brew from coffee leaves. Sweet and caffeine-free. – Marqi and Suwa: These are traditional home-brewed barley drinks, thick and sour like a porridge. They’re usually prepared for festivals or wrestling matches and are not bottled commercially. If offered a glass, try a sip, but be prepared – it’s tart! – Fruit Juices: Fresh juices such as mango, papaya, or sugarcane (chagaa) are sold by street vendors. These are delicious but should be consumed quickly.
Where to Drink: Cafes are ubiquitous in Asmara’s city center, open air or indoor. Most serve both Eritrean and Italian-style coffees, fruit juices, milkshakes, and snacks like sandwiches or sambusas. Cafe Latte and Modern Cafe are popular lunch spots.
For beer or wine, look for “bar” or “beer garden” signs. The Ambassador Hotel (near Posta) has a terrace pub. In Massawa, Gursha is the name of a beloved open-air café. Note that in Eritrea alcohol is not sold at road-side shops; only bars and hotels stock it.
Costs: Soft drinks ~15-25 nakfa. Coffee (espresso/cappuccino) ~15-30 nakfa. Local beer ~35 nakfa per bottle in stores. Cocktails in Asmara hotels ~$5–10.
Etiquette: It’s acceptable for Westerners to drink alcohol in public. However, in conservative villages abstaining or discreet enjoyment is wise. Do not take alcohol into a mosque or church. If invited to a wedding or celebration, expect a toast of araki or beer; a sip and smile suffice if you don’t drink.
Overall, enjoy Eritrea’s beverage culture as a window into daily life. Coffee ceremonies welcome you into homes. Street-side juices cool you in the sun. A cold beer at sunset on the beach will make you grateful for the trip. Just remember moderation: highland nights get cold, and alcohol plus altitude can surprise the unacclimated!
Internet Access: Eritrea has one of the slowest, most restricted Internet systems on the planet. The government tightly controls all connectivity through the state telecom EriTel. For most travelers, the Internet in Eritrea will be frustratingly limited:
Telecom Infrastructure: The cell towers do cover major cities, but again are locked to Eritrean SIMs. However, for voice calls within Eritrea (for locals) EriTel provides 2G and 3G; 4G is only in development. Hotels will allow calls via their landlines to abroad at fixed rates, if needed.
Staying Connected: Without local SIMs, your best bet is periodic access to Wi-Fi for voice-over-IP apps. For coordination, rely more on texting/email back home than on local chat apps. If an emergency happens, go to your hotel’s reception or the U.S./EU embassy section for assistance – personal mobile help is not an option.
Digital Detox: Many travelers find the Eritrean connectivity situation a forced but profound digital detox. Use this as an opportunity: enjoy face-to-face interaction, journal writing, and offline reading. Trust that you’ll manage without instant Google answers or social media for a week. Locals communicate in person or by landlines; you’ll fit right in.
Carrying Tech: Bring a universal plug adapter (Eritrea uses Type C and L plugs, 220V). Spare batteries or power banks are wise, since electricity can be erratic in smaller towns (power cuts 1–2 times a day are common). USB chargers usually work in hotel rooms. Keep digital photos and documents backed up; in the unlikely event a device is confiscated or lost, having backups is crucial.
In short, treat Internet access as a luxury here, not a given. Plan your communications carefully, savor the rare online moments, and otherwise enjoy the wide-open spaces without pings and dings.
Prioritize your health to fully enjoy Eritrea’s adventure. Here’s the rundown:
Routine Vaccinations: Ensure you’re up-to-date on basic shots: measles, polio, diphtheria-tetanus-pertussis, MMR, etc. Get your flu shot if traveling in winter.
Yellow Fever: Not required for tourists unless arriving from a yellow-fever risk country. If you’re coming via sub-Saharan Africa (e.g. Kenya, Ghana), a Yellow Fever certificate is technically needed. From Europe or the Middle East, it’s usually not asked. However, having one won’t hurt if you’ve had the vaccine.
Recommended Vaccines:
– Hepatitis A and B: Both are recommended for travel in Eritrea. A course of Hep A (short or long acting) should be done before departure; Hep B if you’re not already vaccinated.
– Typhoid Fever: Advised for most travelers, as food hygiene can be uncertain. Take the oral vaccine or injection a few weeks before.
– Rabies: There are many stray dogs in Eritrea, especially outside urban areas. If you plan to hike, camp, or work closely with animals, consider a pre-exposure rabies vaccine series. If not, at least carry rabies immune globulin info and know where a large hospital (Asmara) can handle a bite.
Malaria: Coastal regions and lowlands of Eritrea are malaria risk areas. Asmara and other high-altitude areas (above 2200 m) are malaria-free. If you travel to Massawa, Dahlak, Keren or the western lowlands, take antimalarial medication. Options include atovaquone/proguanil (Malarone), doxycycline, or mefloquine. Start the prophylaxis before arriving and continue after you leave (per CDC guidelines). Also use insect repellent with DEET and consider a mosquito net for nightly sleeping if accommodation has exposed windows.
Water and Food Safety: Do not drink tap water anywhere. Always use bottled or boiled water for drinking and teeth brushing. Ice in drinks may be iffy (stick to hotels or cafes that serve filtered ice). Eat fresh produce only if peeled or washed in clean water. Street food is usually cooked hot (safer), but raw salads and unpeeled fruits from markets can carry bacteria. Stick to reasonably cooked meals from busy establishments.
Other Health Risks: Diarrhea and stomach upset are the most common visitor maladies. Bring a travel health kit: oral rehydration salts (ORS), imodium or loperamide, antibiotics like ciprofloxacin, and anti-nausea meds. If you get traveler’s diarrhea, hydrate aggressively. Over-the-counter meds may be scarce. Women should bring extra hygiene supplies, as western brands may not be available.
Medical Facilities: Outside Asmara, medical care is extremely limited. In Asmara there are two main hospitals (Orotta National Referral Hospital and Alka Hospital) with basic services, and a handful of pharmacies selling common drugs. There are no advanced care units or specialist surgical centers for foreigners. Emergency evacuations typically go by air to Nairobi or Europe, which is very expensive (over $10,000).
Therefore: carry comprehensive travel insurance that covers medical evacuation to your home country. Make sure it explicitly covers Eritrea (some insurers exclude it). The advice from insurance firms: have a list of emergency numbers, such as the local Red Cross, and know how to call an ambulance (in Asmara dial 113). Keep your insurance card details and contact info on hand at all times.
COVID-19: As of 2025, Eritrea does not require testing or vaccination proof for entry. Pandemic-era restrictions have been largely lifted. Normal public health measures (like masking) are not mandated, though staying in good shape (rest, avoid big crowds if health is fragile) is wise.
Altitude: Asmara sits at 2350m. Some visitors feel mild effects (shortness of breath on stairs, slight headache) on arrival. Generally this is not severe, but take it easy for the first day if possible. The highlands can get very cool at night in winter, so bring a warmer layer to prevent chills while sleeping.
Other Tips: Tetanus booster is a must if not done in last 10 years (you’ll be driving or hiking near rusty metal). Carry insect repellent for rains or jungle areas (Filfil has some bugs). If you wear glasses, bring an extra pair – optometry is not available. Over-the-counter painkillers and allergy meds (loratadine) are helpful; you won’t find many Western brands around.
By being vaccinated and carrying a well-stocked first-aid kit, you’ll minimize health worries. Eritrea’s challenges are mostly environmental, not disease-related. With the right vaccines and precautions, you can explore mountains, cities, and seas safely.
Eritrea has strict customs rules to prevent smuggling and manage currency. Familiarize yourself with them to avoid hassles:
A tip: don’t plan to bring large souvenirs of local currency or wildlife. Instead, purchase small handicrafts or coffee, which are welcome gifts and allowed. And always declare electronics – it’s a crucial compliance step to avoid fines or seizures.
In short, carry your receipts, declare everything relevant, and respect the alcohol/tobacco limits. If you do, the Eritrean customs will not spoil your trip.
Here are a few day-by-day plan outlines to spark your trip design. Each can be modified based on interests and pace. Remember to build in buffer time for permits, travel delays, or rest.
Day 1: Arrive in Asmara early morning. After clearing immigration, exchange cash at the airport. Check into your hotel and take a brief rest. Late morning, begin an architectural walking tour: visit the Fiat Tagliero service station, the Opera House, and the Catholic Cathedral. Lunch at a downtown cafe (try local vegetarian stews). Afternoon: stroll Harnet Avenue, see Cinema Impero and the War Memorial, shop for coffee at a gelateria. Evening: dinner at a traditional restaurant (sample Zigni or Shiro). If you have energy, enjoy Asmara by night – the city lights make the colonial facades glow.
Day 2: Morning permit run: Walk to Ministry of Tourism and obtain travel permits (especially for Tank Graveyard or any outside sites). Return to hotel, then visit the Enda Mariam Orthodox Church and Great Mosque. Continue to the Treasure Museum (household artifacts) or the modern Asmara National Museum. Lunch at Central Restaurant. Afternoon: visit the old bowling alley or market (buy espresso or painted ceramics at Dolce Vita Factory outlet on Harnet Street). Late afternoon: taxi to the Tank Graveyard (~15 min south of city) to explore rusted shells in sunset light. Return to Asmara for dinner.
Day 3: Breakfast at hotel. Morning free: consider the Asmara cable car (if operating) up to the Market district, or roam more markets. Alternatively visit nearby Dekemhare or Mendefera (45 min taxi each) if permits can be obtained on the spot. Check out by midday, then catch a flight or leave Asmara by road. If catching an afternoon flight, have lunch in town and relax in a cafe. Depart Asmara in the evening.
Day 1 (Asmara): Arrive mid-morning, exchange money, get travel permits, and relax. Late afternoon, take a historical city tour as above: Piazza, Tagliero, Impero. Dinner in Asmara.
Day 2 (Asmara): Full Asmara exploration – churches, markets, Harnet shops, War Memorial, and Tank Graveyard after lunch. Evening train possibility: catch the afternoon steam train to Nefasit (requires pre-booking, groups only). Overnight in Asmara.
Day 3 (Massawa): Early departure to Massawa (3–4 hour drive). Stop at Debre Bizen monastery viewpoint en route. Arrive midday in Massawa, check into hotel. Lunch at Dahlak Hotel or café. Afternoon: walk Massawa Old Town – see Banca d’Italia, Imperial Palace, Sheikh Hanafi Mosque, and Armenian buildings. Evening seafood dinner by the port.
Day 4 (Dahlak Archipelago): Boat trip: depart Massawa after breakfast for a 2-day island tour. Snorkel on the reefs, visit Hanish or Dahlak Kebir. Camp overnight on a beach or stay in a basic lodge if available.
Day 5 (Keren & Return): Return to Massawa by early afternoon. Head overland to Keren (3 hours). If time permits, explore the city center or camel market (if it’s Monday). Late afternoon drive back to Asmara (1.5–2 hours). Depart that night, or overnight Asmara and leave next morning.
Days 1-2 (Asmara): As in the 5-day plan, use two days to thoroughly cover Asmara’s attractions and surrounding sights (tank graveyard, cable car).
Day 3 (Keren): Morning bus or taxi to Keren. Explore Keren’s Cathedral, mosque, and war cemeteries. Time the visit for Monday’s camel market if possible. Dinner in Keren (try goat tibsi or Shiro). Overnight in Keren.
Day 4 (Filfil & Return to Keren): Hire a guide/driver to Filfil Nature Reserve. Spend the day hiking and wildlife watching. Lunch picnic in the forest. Return to Keren for overnight.
Day 5 (Massawa): Drive from Keren to Massawa via coastal road (about 4-5 hours, depending on route). You might stop at historical waterpumping station ruins on the way. Arrive Massawa by afternoon, check-in, and relax on the beach or pool.
Day 6 (Dahlak Islands): Full day boat excursion to the Dahlak islands. Snorkel, swim, and explore. Return by sunset. If desired, catch an evening flight back to Asmara or take a night bus (not recommended – better to overnight Massawa).
Day 7 (Asmara Departure via Train): If not yet done, ride the Asmara-Nefasit train today (2 hours). Alternatively, if done already or train not running, drive directly back to Asmara (3 hours). Arrive in early afternoon and prepare for departure that evening. If you have an 8th day, you could detour to Qohaito or Adulis beforehand (requires separate planning).
Days 1-2 (Asmara Sightseeing): Immerse yourself in Asmara’s culture, with leisurely mornings and photo sessions in golden light. Venture to some cafés you missed, book a coffee ceremony with a family if possible, and maybe visit the outskirts villages for a rural feel.
Day 3 (Railway & Filfil): Take the morning steam train to Nefasit (book in advance). From Nefasit, taxi into Filfil forest for an afternoon hike. Camp or picnic in Filfil if you’re adventurous, else return to Asmara.
Days 4-5 (Keren and Environs): Day 4: travel to Keren. Spend the afternoon at the market and war cemeteries. Day 5: day trip from Keren to Filfil (if not done), or south to Bisha (copper mine town) for remnant mining sites. Another option: arrange a local tour to Senafe’s rock formations (requires police escort). Overnight Keren.
Days 6-7 (Massawa and Islands): Day 6: Keren to Massawa by late morning. Afternoon, explore Massawa Old Town and relax on beaches. Day 7: 2-day boat trip in Dahlak. Return night of day 7 or morning of day 8.
Day 8 (Qohaito): From Massawa, drive overland (via Adi Tekelezan) to Qohaito in the morning (permits arranged). Spend day hiking ruins and Dahlek Church. Late afternoon, return to Asmara or Keren for overnight (depending on stamina).
Day 9 (Decamhare and Southern Route): Take the southern route (Asmara to Barentu) to see Italian-era Decamhare. Visit the old hydroelectric plant and mosque. Continue to Mai Bakok for sunset (remote). Camp if daring or return to Asmara.
Day 10 (Final Asmara Day and Departure): Leisure in Asmara. Buy souvenirs (coffee, honey, textiles). Enjoy last Eritrean meal (say injera goodbye). Head to airport for departure.
For extra time or adrenaline: – Trek in the Eastern Gash-Barka valleys near Barentu. – Camp with Beni-Amer tribespeople in the western lowlands. – Hike Dahlak Kebir inland to look for the hidden Air Force airfield ruins. These require a specialized guide and a military permit, but give a glimpse of true off-grid Eritrea.
General Itinerary Tips:
– Permits: Always reconfirm you have the right travel permits before leaving town each day. Building your itinerary accounts for returning to Asmara (or Keren) to apply if needed. – Flexibility: Expect some timetable shifts. Bus schedules, ferry availability, or weather may force changes.
– Local Tour Operators: If arranging it yourself sounds daunting, local Eritrean tour companies can offer packaged itineraries roughly along these lines, often with guides and transport included.
Above all, allow time for the unexpected: a friendly conversation in a village, a herd of goats blocking the road, or simply sipping tea in a desert oasis. Eritrea is as much about the journey between places as the destinations themselves.
Guide or Independent: Technically, Eritrea permits independent travel as long as you follow permit rules. However, many tourists hire guides or drivers for logistics. A guide (English-speaking) can expedite permits, lead hiking routes, and translate dialects. Drivers know the roads and customs well. Independent travel gives more freedom and often lower cost, but requires patience and planning. If you prefer self-guided, make sure your hotel or a local agency is willing to book your permits and provide trustworthy car service. If joining a group tour, you’re more insured but less flexible.
Hiring Guides and Drivers: Reliable local drivers can be found through hotels or by referral. Expect $100-$150 per day (driver+car, plus fuel). Always negotiate and confirm the itinerary in writing. For guided hikes or culture tours (Qohaito, Filfil), ask your hotel to recommend a licensed guide. The Ministry of Tourism has a list of approved guides (ask for it if in doubt).
Insurance and Resources: Carry travel insurance that covers medical evacuation. Keep a copy of your policy and emergency contacts. The Bradt Travel Guide (if available) is the go-to on Eritrea – it has detailed advice. The African Studies Centre has resources. Also note down contact info for your embassy or consulate in Addis Ababa (Ambassador to Ethiopia is usually a secondary contact for Eritrea).
Language Barriers: English is taught in schools, so many people under 30 will understand basic English, especially in Asmara or hotels. Older rural people might only know their local language or Arabic. A phrasebook in Tigrinya and Arabic is useful. Non-verbal communication (smiling, pointing at pictures) works surprisingly well.
Bureaucracy: Always carry your passport, visa, and travel permits on you. Hoteliers will copy them. You will likely have a Hotel Registration Form (called “census form”) on each arrival at a new hotel – sign it and keep a copy if given. Some roads have checkpoints where you present paperwork, including permits and hotel registrations. Keep passport photocopies separate just in case.
Emergencies: There are no 911-style services. In medical or security emergency, go to the nearest police station or military camp for assistance. The police (Tel: 113) respond quickly to emergencies. Hospitals in Asmara or an ambulance can be summoned through your hotel or by calling the hospital directly.
Cultural Sensitivity: Avoid public displays of affection, as Eritrea is conservative. Holding hands is fine, but kissing or intimate contact should be private. Tipping is not required, but appreciated. Drivers and guides typically expect a tip (around 10% of their fee). In restaurants, rounding up the bill or leaving some bills in plate area is standard if service is good.
Shopping and Souvenirs: Popular buys are roasted coffee beans, spiced coffee blends, artisanal baskets, handicrafts (especially leather goods and wooden bowls), and local honey. The Dolce Vita factory outlet in Asmara sells linen, silk scarves, and handicraft with fixed prices. Haggling is not common. Also seek out CDs of Eritrean music – it’s mellow and often sung in Tigrinya or Amharic.
Safety Stance: Always tell someone where you are going, especially if venturing outside cities. Let your hotel receptionist know your plans each day. If hiking or camping, make a simple itinerary with times. For female travelers: day trips are fine solo or in mixed company, but avoid being alone at night outside town.
Local Customs: Greet elders or shopkeepers with a nod or a “Selam.” When offered bread or snacks, accept at least a bit (food is a sign of friendship). If you see a group of Eritreans in a circle or watching soccer on TV in a cafe, you can smile and ask to join (they will welcome you into their orbit).
Solo vs. Group: Eritrea welcomes both independent travelers and tour groups. Solo female travelers have done fine, but should be vigilant. Group tours offer context and security, but Eritrea’s group tours are often large international groups with tight schedules. Choose based on comfort level.
Scams to Avoid: There are virtually no tourist scams in Eritrea (no beggar children, no classic “lost passport” trick). Just watch small tricks: a taxi might claim “meter broken” to overcharge, so always agree fare first. Official tour guides or drivers should be vetted via recommendation. Avoid unlicensed “guides” offering to expedite permits for cash – go to the official desk instead.
Souvenir Shopping: The Dolce Vita clothing outlet (Asmara Fashion Factory) sells clothes and linens. Local markets have tiny silver earrings, traditional jewelry, and jewelry made from Ostrich eggshells. Haggle gently; fixed-price is more common than bargaining, except for rugs and antiques (for these, start at 50% of asking price).
Electric Plugs: Eritrea uses mostly Type C (European two-pin) outlets. Some Italian vintage sockets are Type L (three-pin). Bring adaptors. Plugs deliver 220V AC.
Emergency Tips: If police stop your car, stay calm and polite; they might just need to check permits. If taken to an office, offer your paperwork. If you inadvertently ignore a rule, argue politely or clarify (Eritreans respect an apology if you meant no harm).
With common sense and respect, Eritrea’s people will help you. Locals see themselves as new friends or distant relatives, not mere customers. Approach with a spirit of curiosity and humility, and your trip will be rich in both sights and human connections.
To truly appreciate Eritrea’s present, it helps to know how its past was shaped:
Understanding this background, a traveler appreciates how Eritrea’s architecture is a legacy of its multiple rulers, how the cultural mosaic (Orthodox, Muslim, and colonial) arose, and why Eritreans cherish independence. It also explains the permit system (a remnant of wartime controls) and why national pride runs high.
In summary, Eritrea’s story is one of endurance and cultural fusion: ancient kingdoms, centuries of empire, decades of war, and now a nation cautiously building peace. Carrying this context in mind, you’ll find layers of meaning in every ruin, church, and handshake along the road.
How many days should I spend in Eritrea? A short trip can see Asmara in 2–3 days. To include Massawa and Keren, plan at least 5–7 days. For a thorough tour (including Dahlak islands, Qohaito, Filfil), 10 days is ideal. If very limited, you could do a quick Asmara-Massawa day combo, but you’ll miss much.
Is Eritrea more expensive than other African countries? Generally, daily costs (hotels, food) can be higher than in, say, Kenya or Tanzania, because everything is cash-only and imported goods are pricey. However, local meals and lodging in nakfa are still lower-end. Expect to budget roughly $75–$150 per day for a comfortable trip (mid-range hotels and meals).
Can I use Booking.com or Airbnb? Almost never. Most hotels and guesthouses are not on international booking platforms. Foreign visitors book by phone or email. In practice, bring your itinerary and have your hotel list handy; your agent or hotel itself will often book your room on request. Large international chains do not operate here.
Are there other tourists? Eritrea sees very few outsiders compared to other African countries. You might meet a few adventurous Western travelers or the occasional tour group, but overall tourism is extremely low-volume. Don’t expect any tourist infrastructure (few tour buses, no “backpacker hostels”). This means you can enjoy authenticity, but also that you should be self-reliant.
What is the official language? The de facto official language is Tigrinya (spoken by the majority). Other regional languages (Tigre, Saho, Arabic, English) are also used in government. Signs in Asmara are typically in Tigrinya and English. You can get by with English in cities, but learning a few Tigrinya phrases is very helpful.
Can I visit from Ethiopia or Sudan? As of 2025, no. The land border with Ethiopia remains closed. For Sudan, border crossings are irregular. The only reliable entry is by air. If coming from Ethiopia, you must fly out of Addis Ababa to Cairo/Istanbul or a neighboring country, then re-enter Eritrea by plane.
Is photography allowed? Yes, in tourist sites. Do not take pictures of government or military installations, police checkpoints, or government buildings. Always ask before photographing people (especially women). Photography in mosques or churches may be restricted.
What should I avoid doing in Eritrea? Avoid discussing politics or criticizing the government. Don’t speculate on independence war issues or the Eritrea-Ethiopia border. Avoid indecent behavior (public intoxication, loud arguments). Dress and act modestly. And, of course, never bring banned materials (guns, drugs, pornography).
Are credit cards accepted anywhere? No, not really. Most hotels and shops accept only cash. A couple of international hotels might take major credit cards for bigger expenses, but plan on all-cash. ATMs are virtually non-existent for travelers.
Can I find vegetarian food easily? Yes. Eritrean cuisine has many vegetarian dishes. Vegetable stews like shiro (chickpea) and gomen (greens) are common. Ask for bstlen alichcha (without meat) options. Almost any restaurant will have at least a few vegetarian or fasting dishes.
Is there nightlife in Asmara? Not in a Western sense. Asmara has no clubs or bars beyond a few hotel lounges. People socialize in cafés or on sidewalks in the evenings. The nightlife is low-key: a good dinner followed by gelato or coffee, then a calm walk on Plaza.
Can I charge my devices? Eritrea uses 220V (50Hz) electricity, with Type C (European two-pin) sockets being most common, and some Type L (Italian three-pin). Bring a proper adaptor. Power cuts are rare in Asmara, but not unheard of in smaller towns. Have a USB charger for your devices (some hotels have them at reception if you ask). Also, bring a power bank; electricity in Dahlak islands and remote areas is non-existent, so you’ll need off-grid power for phones/cameras.
What is the time zone? Eritrea is UTC+3, the same as East Africa time (no daylight saving).
Can I drink alcohol in Eritrea? Yes, it is legal and widely available in hotels and bars. Local beer is cheap. However, there are no 24-hour liquor stores. During Ramadan or in Muslim-majority areas (like Keren or parts of Massawa), drinking alcohol openly may be frowned upon.
How do I get from the airport to my hotel? Taxis are available just outside the terminal. A fixed rate (roughly 50–70 nakfa) will get you to any hotel in central Asmara. You can also pre-arrange a hotel pickup; they will usually charge a similar rate. Public buses do not serve the airport.
Are there shopping malls? No modern malls exist. There are a few markets and small shops. For goods like clothing or electronics, rely on the Dolce Vita Outlet for textiles in Asmara, and import-grade electronics stores. Mobile phones are mostly basic (no 4G chipsets) and expensive.
Electricity and Plugs: Eritrea’s voltage is 220 V. Most outlets are the round, 2-pin type C. A few use the flat 3-pin Italian-style (Type L). Pack a universal adapter for European plugs.
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