Nestled in the steamy outskirts of Beppu (Oita Prefecture), the famed Jigoku Meguri or “Hell Tour” leads travelers through a chain of volcanic hot springs known as the “Hells”. Each Hell (地獄, jigoku) is a pool of intensely hot, mineral-rich water too hot to bathe in – only to be viewed and marveled at. For example, Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell) is a cobalt-blue pool that boils at ~98°C, while nearby Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell) is dyed deep red by iron oxides. In total, the tour covers seven famous springs (often called “eight” in tourist materials) scattered in two districts. These Hells are part of the reason Beppu sits among the world’s most prodigious spa resorts – the city has roughly 2,800 hot springs gushing about 136,000 kiloliters of water per day (second only globally).
Quick Facts:
– Hells Covered: 7 major sites in the Jigoku Meguri (Umi, Chinoike, Tatsumaki, Shiraike, Oniishibozu, Oniyama, Kamado).
– Water Output: ≈136,000 kL/day (world’s 2nd largest).
– Total Springs: ~2,800 springs over eight spa areas.
– Temperatures: 78–99+°C (Tatsumaki’s underground water reaches ~150°C).
– Scenic Designation: Umi, Chinoike, Tatsumaki, and Shiraike are Japan Places of Scenic Beauty.
– Meaning of “Hell”: Called jigoku (地獄, “hell”) because local people long feared these geysers and mud vents.
Beppu’s volcanic underpinnings trace to the Pacific Ring of Fire. Two active volcanoes nearby – Mt. Tsurumi and Mt. Garan – lie below Beppu, heating groundwater that rises as the city’s hot springs. In fact, Beppu sits atop two major fault lines, with its eight onsen districts (the Beppu Hatto) aligned along these fractures. As volcanic gases infuse the heated water, countless minerals (iron, sulfur, silica, etc.) tint each spring with its distinctive color. For example, the cobalt blue of Umi Jigoku comes from suspended silica crystals scattering sunlight, whereas Chinoike’s blood red comes from iron- and magnesium-rich mud. Overall Beppu boasts some 2,849 springs gushing over 136,000 kL of water per day – a volume rivaled only by Yellowstone. No other city offers such extreme geothermal output in one small area.
Geologists note that Beppu’s geysers and vents behave much like those in Iceland or Yellowstone, though on a smaller scale. For example, the Tatsumaki Spout Hell erupts regularly under a rocky cap: pressure builds until it blasts boiling water 20–30 meters skyward. Repeated earthquakes and volcanic activity over millennia created the network of superheated reservoirs. Measured depths in places like Umi Jigoku exceed 200 meters. In short, the science of Beppu is grounded in plate tectonics (Kyushu sits on a subduction zone) and deep magma-heated aquifers.
Insight: The very definition of onsen in Japan requires temperatures over 25°C with minerals. Beppu’s springs meet dozens of different onsen types (sulfate, chloride, carbonate, etc.) thanks to this volcanic chemistry.
The term jigoku (地獄) literally means “hell” or “Hades” in Japanese. In Buddhist cosmology, jigoku refers to fiery realms of suffering. Historically, villagers viewed the boiling mud and steam of Beppu’s springs with awe and fear. Centuries ago, the Kannawa area was described as “a cursed land of gas explosions, bubbling mud and steaming waters,” earning it the moniker jigoku. According to legend, a 13th-century monk named Ippen Shonin pacified the devils by prayer, transforming fear into faith. Stories say Shonin even opened the springs for bathing, laying the foundation for Beppu’s hot spring culture.
By the late 1800s, local entrepreneur Aburaya Kumahachi (the “father of Beppu tourism”) formalized the Jigoku Meguri tour. He built inns and Japan’s first guided sightseeing buses, making the Hells a major attraction. Over time, what began as a frightening landscape became a celebrated spectacle. Four Hells (Umi, Chinoike, Tatsumaki, Shiraike) are now protected as Places of Scenic Beauty. In the mid-20th century, local lore melded with tourism: souvenir shops sell Enmannoyu bath salts (“sulfur of ten thousand springs”) derived from the blue waters of Umi Jigoku. In this way, jigoku shifted from underworld terror to beloved hot spring heritage.
As the most famous Hell, Umi Jigoku greets you in Kannawa. The water here is a startling cobalt blue, heated to about 98°C. The pool is roughly 20 meters across and feeds a steam-heated tropical greenhouse on site. According to locals, Umi Jigoku formed over 1,200 years ago from a volcanic eruption. Each morning, the sun lights up its milky-blue surface, making it glow like a “sea.”
What to see: A large modern exhibition hall sits beside the pool. Inside are souvenir shops selling onsen-cooked foods: Umi Jigoku is famous for its boiled eggs and custard made in the spring water. Outside, a wooden bridge arches over the Hell’s edge, offering a great vantage point for photos. Nearby is a footbath filled by Umi’s hot water. The surrounding Japanese garden hosts seasonal plants (lotus flowers in summer) that thrive in the warm steam.
Visitor tips: Umi Jigoku is often visited first, so arrive at opening (8:00–8:30am) to beat crowds. Spend 20–30 minutes here. Purchase the combined Jigoku Ticket (about ¥2,000 for all Hells) at Umi’s booth. (Individual entry is ~¥400.) Don’t miss trying an onsen egg or the Enmannoyu bath salts only sold here. A viewing platform on the 2nd floor provides panoramic shots of the blue pool and garden.
Just uphill from Umi is Oniishibozu Jigoku, named for the dozen gray mud ponds whose round bubbles resemble bald monk heads. The mud is near-boiling (around 98–99°C) and churns continuously, creating an almost hypnotic effect. Because of its soil type, this Hell was dormant for decades before being reopened to the public. Today the pools are split by walkways so visitors can peer directly down at the agitated mud below.
What to see: As you approach, a thick plume of steam and the sound of gurgling mud greet you. Unlike Umi, Oniishibozu is more intimate – you can almost feel the warmth on the path. There’s a free footbath here too (using the same hot water) if you need to warm your feet. This Hell has four small mud pools instead of one large pond. The path is built over these pools, so the boardwalk itself often steams. In front stands a sculpted demon statue with a bowl, echoing the Hell theme. A small demonstration geyser called Oni no Takaibiki (“demon’s snoring”) also exists here – it bubbles with a snorting sound when active.
Visitor tips: Allocate ~15–20 minutes. This site is usually less crowded than Umi, so photographers can set up easily. The best shots capture the swirling patterns of mud against the walkway. Note that this Hell reopened in 2002 after renovations, so it feels quite safe. On very cold mornings, thinner steam may allow clearer photos of the mud. A side trail leads to a lookout deck with views of Kannawa valley’s steam clouds.
Kamado Jigoku stands out for its variety and interactivity. “Kamado” means cooking stove, reflecting that locals once steamed rice here. The site actually contains six distinct springs in one compound – some cobalt blue, some muddy, and even an orange-tinted pond. A towering red Oni (demon) statue presides over the hot pools like a chef at a cauldron.
What to see: Start by exploring the six small Hells: each has its own appearance (blue, green, white, red, etc.). Kamado is famous for live steam demonstrations. Periodically staff will force boisterous steam rings out of a nozzle or make resonant sounds by channeling air through a vent – quite a spectacle for kids. Another unique feature: here you can drink the hot spring water from a spigot (it tastes slightly salty). Also available are hell-steamed treats (eggs, puddings) at snack stands. Outside, a hot water footbath and a small prayer pavilion (rubbing stones heated by the springs is said to promote health) add to the visit.
Visitor tips: Plan 25–35 minutes. Kamado Jigoku is very family-friendly, as children can run around the open areas. Demonstrations run roughly on the hour (signs near the entrance show times). Photography is fun here: capture the contrast of colored pools and the red demon statue. Do try the free onsen water (it’s drinkable). Kamado is also a good place to rest, as it has seating, vending machines, and restrooms on site.
Just a short walk from Kamado is Oniyama Jigoku (Demon Mountain Hell), Beppu’s hottest pond at about 99.1°C. Its claim to fame is an attached crocodile farm: roughly 70 Nile crocodiles have been raised here since 1923 using the spring’s heat. (Before that, local legend said escaping crocodile heat from the well led to their habitation here.)
What to see: The Hell itself is a blue-gray pool, but most visitors head to the fenced viewing area to watch the crocodiles lounging on concrete banks or in warm water pits. On feeding days (usually afternoon), staff feed the reptiles; hearing the crocs splash is a highlight. Beyond the crocodiles, notice the billowing steam rising straight up – without a roof, the plume is particularly thick. The facility also includes small exhibits about the crocodiles’ care.
Visitor tips: About 20 minutes here is enough (15 in Hell area + 10 for crocs). Photography: the crocs are quite active mid-morning. Bring a zoom lens for animals or grab some food pellets sold on site for a fun snapping photo with a splash (an adult head may appear near the camera). Note: Though they look fearsome, the handlers emphasize the crocodile attraction is safe – the animals have alligatorines from a single heat source.
Just downhill from Oniyama is Shiraike Jigoku. At first it looks like a pale turquoise pond cradled in a Japanese garden. In reality, the water is clear when it emerges (≈95°C) but rapidly cools and precipitates minerals, turning it milky white. The effect is like a pastel jade pool nestled in lush bonsai and bamboo plantings.
What to see: Shiraike’s charm is its serenity. The grounds include a small subtropical fish aquarium fed by the hot spring – colorful koi and Amazonian fish that thrive in the warm water. A stone pathway leads around the pond under gnarled pines and azaleas. Benches invite quiet contemplation of the gentle steam rising. Compared to the more dramatic hells, Shiraike feels calm and meditative.
Visitor tips: It is usually the least crowded Hell, so photographers will enjoy undisturbed shots. Allocate 15–20 minutes. Shiraike is quite accessible (paved paths) and flat – good for elderly or wheelchair users. The mild milky tone of the pond casts an almost surreal light on faces, so it’s a great spot for a peaceful selfie. Combine the visit with nearby Tatsumaki as part of a relaxed afternoon.
Chinoike, meaning “Blood Pond,” lives up to its name. This is a brilliantly blood-red hot spring, Japan’s oldest, mentioned in records as early as 733 CE. The cooler (about 78°C) reddish water is rich in iron oxide and magnesium, which keep it ablaze with crimson hues. The site is primitive in feel: a bare metal railing surrounds the pit, and billows of red steam drift into the sky.
What to see: Stand at the railing and watch the red bubbles rise – on sunny days the color is almost garish. A separate footbath pools this same iron water; locals claim it eases skin ailments. Near the entrance, small shops sell Chinoike dokudango, a medicinal red clay paste made from the spring sediment (once used to treat skin diseases). The stark contrast of this Hell’s color against the verdant hillside is a photographer’s dream.
Visitor tips: Spend 20–30 minutes here. Go after lunch if possible – the light brings out the maximum redness. Chinoike lies in the quieter Shibaseki area, a bit separated from Kannawa. A short uphill walk (about 3 km by road) connects Kannawa to Shibaseki. Many visitors save Chinoike for afternoon when coming back from Kannawa. A small museum on site explains its history and shows old photos.
Tatsumaki Jigoku (“Spout Hell”) is Chinoike’s neighbor and a natural geyser. Roughly every 30–40 minutes, the pool erupts – shooting a column of scalding water and steam up to 20–30 meters high. The eruptions last only 6–10 minutes, then subside until pressure builds again. A simple pavilion offers covered seating to watch safely.
Visitor tips: Timing is key. When you arrive, check the posted next-eruption time (the schedule is usually steady). Arrive 5–10 minutes early and grab a front-row spot – the floor vibrates and mist showers all around during the blast. A single seat has an optimal view: the best photos are taken with the geyser against the sky. If you miss an eruption, you’ll wait at most 40 minutes for the next. Plan at least 20 minutes here (including waiting); it’s fun to watch it cycle. The anticipation makes the eventual burst all the more thrilling.
To help plan your tour, the table below summarizes all Hells at a glance. It compares their color, temperature, highlights, crowd level, photographic appeal, recommended time, accessibility, and family-friendliness.
| Hell | Color | Temp. | Highlight | Crowds | Photo | Time Needed | Accessibility | Family-Friendly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Umi Jigoku | Cobalt blue | 98 °C | Largest & most famous Hell | High | ★★★★★ | 25–35 min | Good | Yes |
| Oniishibozu Jigoku | Gray | 99 °C | Hypnotic mud bubbles | Medium | ★★★★☆ | 15–25 min | Good | Yes |
| Kamado Jigoku | Multicolored | ~90 °C | Interactive demos & demon displays | Med–High | ★★★★☆ | 25–35 min | Good | Excellent |
| Oniyama Jigoku | Blue-gray | 99.1 °C | Geothermal crocodiles | Medium | ★★★☆☆ | 15–20 min | Moderate | Yes |
| Shiraike Jigoku | Milky green | 95 °C | Serene garden setting | Low | ★★★☆☆ | 15–20 min | Good | Yes |
| Chinoike Jigoku | Blood red | 78 °C | Oldest & most dramatic Hell | Medium | ★★★★★ | 20–30 min | Good | Yes |
| Tatsumaki Jigoku | Clear | 105 °C* | Periodic geyser eruptions | Medium | ★★★★★ | 15–40 min* | Excellent | Yes |
*Temp for Tatsumaki refers to the underground reservoir (~150°C) – the visible pool is cooler.
Insider Tip: If visiting only a few Hells, start at Umi Jigoku early. It’s the largest and often most crowded, so an early start yields the best light and fewer people.
Tickets are sold at the first Hell you enter. As of 2025, individual admission is roughly ¥400 per Hell; a combined pass (“Jigoku Meguri Ticket”) covering all seven costs about ¥2,000 for adults. Children’s prices are roughly half. If you plan to see four or more Hells, the combined pass pays off. Passes can also be bought at Beppu tourist centers (e.g. WanderCompass).
Payment is mainly cash (yen); credit card acceptance is still limited onsite. Some Hells have vending machines selling drinks and Jigoku-themed snacks (puddings, salty eggs). The Sunflower (formerly Kamenoi) bus also offers a “hells package” day-pass: for ~¥1,000–1,500 it covers unlimited Hell-tour bus rides plus a discount on the Hell Tour ticket. Check with Beppu Station’s information office on any seasonal combo deals.
Ticket Option | Adults | Children | Notes |
Individual Hell (each) | ¥400 | ~¥200 | Cash only, per Hell |
Combined Jigoku Pass (7 Hells) | ¥2,000 | ~¥1,000 | Save money if visiting ≥5 sites |
Sunflower Bus Day Pass | ¥1,100–1,500 | — | Includes unlimited local bus + Hell pass discounts |
Planning Note: The combined ticket is sold at Umi Jigoku (among other locations). Keep it handy – presenters at each Hell will stamp it. If buying on the second or third Hell, you can still get the all-Hells pass by paying the difference.
From Tokyo/Osaka: Take the Shinkansen to Kokura or Hakata, then the JR Sonic Limited Express to Beppu (6–7 hours total). Alternately fly into Oita Airport (OIT) and shuttle to Beppu (~50 minutes). From Fukuoka/Hakata: A direct limited-express train (“Sonic” on JR Nippo Line) reaches Beppu in about 2 hours. The JR Rail Pass covers all these trains and is good value if you have it.
From Beppu Station:
– By Bus: The Sunflower (Kamenoi) Bus #5 departs from Beppu Station’s west exit roughly every 15–30 minutes, bound for Kannawa (nearest stop: Umijigoku-mae). Ticket ~¥350. For Shibaseki (Chinoike, Tatsumaki), transfer at Kannawa or take #16 / #10 buses.
– By Car/Taxi: Taxis are plentiful (~¥1,000–1,500 to Kannawa from station). Rental cars and taxis can use Hell parking lots.
– On Foot: The Kannawa cluster (six of the Hells) is somewhat hilly but walkable; Beppu Station to Umi Jigoku is ~3 km (45-minute walk).
Most visitors buy a 1-Day Sunflower Bus Pass (¥1,000) which allows unlimited hops on city buses, making it easy to shuttle between Kannawa and Shibaseki. Tourist centers (WanderCompass, Kitahama bus terminal) sell these passes.
Local Tip: If you choose not to drive, a Sunflower Bus Pass with the “Hell Tour” add-on is convenient. It covers your bus trips and even reduces the Hell Ticket to around ¥1,600.
The Jigoku Meguri divides into two zones: Kannawa (six Hells: Umi, Oniishibozu, Kamado, Oniyama, Shiraike, plus one small Umi-adjacent pond) and Shibaseki (two Hells: Chinoike and Tatsumaki). They lie about 3 km apart, so plan transportation between them (bus, taxi, or walk).
Recommended sequence (8:00am–noon): Start in Kannawa and go downhill in order. A popular path is Umi → Oniishibozu → Kamado → Oniyama → Shiraike. This loops from the top Hell to the bottom. Save Kamado or Oniyama for when you want a sit-down or bite (they have food). You can spend 2.5–3 hours to cover all Kannawa sites.
Then, head to Shibaseki (noon–2pm): Take a bus/taxi to Chinoike (Blood Hell). Visit Chinoike first (it faces south, good light early afternoon). Finally go to Tatsumaki (Spout Hell) – since it’s right next to Chinoike, you can time your approach around the next geyser. (You might wait up to 30 minutes depending on timing.) Expect ~1–1.5 hours for both Shibaseki Hell stops.
In total, a brisk tour of all 7 Hells takes roughly 3–4 hours. To savor the experience, allocate a half or full day. If pressed, you must see Umi, Chinoike, Kamado, and Tatsumaki for the full variety.
Planning Note: The Sunflower Bus No.5 (Kannawa-Kyoto Temp area) loops conveniently through Kannawa in one direction. If using buses, note that the Kannawa Hells are on one long route – simply stay on board to move downhill from Umi toward Shiraike.
Beppu’s Hells are open year-round (roughly 8am–5pm). However, seasons and timing affect your experience. Winter (Dec–Feb) is magical: cold air makes the steam even denser, and the reds/blues of the springs really pop against frosty air. Locals say it’s best for onsen; few sightseeing crowds visit because travelers focus on summer elsewhere. Autumn brings pleasant weather and colorful foliage; morning light through mist is photogenic. Spring is mild with cherry blossoms around many baths (Beppu Park). Summer is warm but surprisingly quiet at the Hells – soaking in steamy water even in heat can feel refreshing, and pools of tropical plants thrive.
For time of day: early morning (8–10am) has the fewest tourists and soft light. Midday sees peak crowds, especially during Japanese holidays (Golden Week in early May, Obon in mid-August) – avoid those if possible. On a hot summer day, morning or late afternoon tours feel more comfortable, since midday is both hot and crowded. Geyser timings: plan Tatsumaki either first thing or after lunch.
Photography Tip: Steam and contrast show best in cooler weather or early morning light. Many photographers recommend visiting Tatsumaki in winter/spring morning when the plume stands tall against a crisp sky.
Mobility: The Hells have paved paths, but some uneven spots. Umi and Kamado are the most wheelchair-friendly (gentle ramps and wide walkways). Shiraike is also mostly flat. Others involve steps or sloped cobbles; an attendant can suggest best viewing spots if you have difficulty moving. Wheelchair access: available at parking lots for each Hell, and ramps are marked on site maps.
With children: All Hells welcome kids – keep a close eye near the edges. Oniyama can thrill youngsters (who can feed the crocs from a safe distance). Many Hells have footbaths and small gardens or koi ponds that kids enjoy.
What to bring: Good walking shoes (paths can be slippery with steam condensation), a hand towel (for the footbaths or sudden mist), a bottle of water (it’s hot out), and sun protection in summer. Photographers should carry a lens cloth for the frequent steam. Cash is king: most entry and snack purchases are cash-only. Modesty: if you wish to use the footbaths or communal onsens nearby, bring swimwear or a modesty towel.
Facilities: Basic facilities exist at each site. Restrooms and vending machines (drinks/snacks) are at Umi, Kamado, and the Tatsumaki pavilion; smaller Hells often have just a small shop or none. Plan restroom stops accordingly (Umi and Kamado are convenient hubs).
Practical Info: All Hells have parking (free) if driving. There are marked rest areas at Umi and Kamado (benches, maps, drinking fountains).
Unique to Beppu is jigoku mushi (“hell steaming”). This centuries-old cooking method uses natural hot spring steam to cook food in bamboo baskets. The main facility for this is the Jigoku Mushi Kobo in Kannawa. Here, visitors can buy fresh vegetables, seafood, or buns and place them in a steamer over a vent in the ground. In about 15–20 minutes, meals come out perfectly steamed by geothermally heated steam. Typical recipes: Onsen Tamago (soft-boiled eggs), sweet jellies or puddings, corn, sweet potatoes, shiitake mushrooms. The foods often carry a faint sulphur taste that fans love.
This practice dates back to at least the Edo period. Jigoku Mushi Kobo also sells prepared steamy dishes if you prefer. Many Hell-tour shoppers combine the adventure of sightseeing with a unique DIY picnic in the steaming grounds.
A common question: Can I bathe in the Hell springs? No – the Jigoku are for viewing only. However, Beppu offers dozens of onsen for bathing. Near the Hells, the most famous public bath is Takegawara Onsen (founded 1879). Its historic bathhouse even includes a unique sand bath: lie down in a warm sand pit (wearing a yukata) while attendants ladle on hot water – it’s said to detoxify and relax muscles. Inside Takegawara, you’ll find gender-separated communal baths (the water is scalding hot!). The building itself is a designated cultural property, with a façade famous for inspiring Ghibli’s Spirited Away.
Other nearby bathing options:
– Hyotan Onsen (Mud Bath): Offers a traditional hot mud bath mixed with minerals. Great for collagen/silica aficionados.
– Kannawa Public Baths: There are several old-style sentō (public baths) in Kannawa serving locals. One can drop in for less than ¥500.
– Ryokan Onsens: If lodging overnight, most ryokan in Kannawa and city center have private or public baths you can use. Many offer single-day-entry packages (around ¥1000–¥1500) including toiletries.
Etiquette: Remember to wash thoroughly before entering any onsen, and keep towels out of the water. If using public baths after touring the Hells, a small bag for wet clothes is handy.
Local Perspective: Locals often “bottom-heat top-cool” – soak first in the deeply hot sand or mud baths (warming from below), then rinse off in a cool shower.
Accommodation choices in Beppu span budget to luxury. Your choice depends on itinerary:
Accommodation Tip: Kannawa lodgings run hotter (literally and ambiance). For quiet evenings with thermal views, Kannawa wins. But if you want bars, restaurants and JR convenience, stay at the Station area. Many combine: do Kannawa as a day trip, sleep near Station or beach.
Beppu and Yufuin are Kyushu’s two most famous onsen towns. Beppu vs Yufuin: Beppu is a hot-spring industrial city – plumes of steam, many onsens, a working harbor. Yufuin is a quaint rural resort at the foot of Mount Yufu – think boutique shops, art cafes, and scenic countryside. Yufuin is about a 50-minute bus or train ride from Beppu (the shuttle is very convenient). Many travelers visit both: e.g. 1 night Beppu (onsen tour + sand bath) + 1 night Yufuin (relaxing in a ryokan by a lake). If you must choose one day trip: an afternoon in Yufuin is a refreshing contrast (stroll the floral Kinrinko Lake and art galleries).
Other Day Trips from Beppu:
– Usuki Stone Buddhas: 20 km south, UNESCO-listed rock-carved Buddha statues (15th-century).
– Kunisaki Peninsula: Historic temples (Futago-ji) with mountain views, a sculpture park.
– Takachiho: For a longer trip (2+ hours away), the gorges and myth-laden waterfall in Miyazaki Prefecture.
Kyushu’s transport is efficient. The JR Local and Limited Express trains reach Yufuin and beyond. Beppu is a great base: consider a multi-day itinerary (e.g. Kumamoto or Kagoshima) using the Kagoshima Line via Kokura.
Adventure Idea: Combine a night bath in Kannawa with an overnight at Yufuin’s famous rotemburo (outdoor bath) inns. Spring or fall are especially nice when Yufu’s foliage is stunning.
Beppu’s Jigoku Meguri offers an experience unlike any other. These vividly colored pools and dramatic geysers are a direct window into Japan’s fiery geology. More than just a quirky attraction, the Hells reveal deep history (with Buddhist and folk legends) and local ingenuity (jigoku-mushi cuisine). Unlike crowded Kyoto temples or neon Tokyo streets, Beppu feels authentic – a steamy hot-spring city where you can both learn and relax. The multi-sensory thrill of watching 99°C water bubble at your feet, smelling sulfur and hearing hissing vents, stays with travelers long after. For an itinerary that balances natural wonder with cultural insight, stand amidst Beppu’s ancient steam: you’ll find depth and beauty that few other destinations can match.
