Nouakchott occupies a narrow strip of Atlantic shore at the edge of the Sahara, its flat expanse stretching from shifting sandbanks to a pale coastline where tides rise unimpeded. Today, it serves as Mauritania’s political heart and its busiest hub of commerce. Yet barely seven decades ago, this coastal hamlet counted fewer than two dozen thousand souls. Its transformation—driven by necessity, ambition and the unforgiving advance of the desert—has shaped a city of startling contrasts: modern avenues flanked by single-storey dwellings, sprawling shantytowns pressed against dunes, formal government edifices rising beside makeshift shelters.
In 1958, as Mauritania prepared to emerge from French colonial rule, Nouakchott was chosen to replace Saint-Louis and other inland posts as the nation’s capital. Planners envisaged a settlement of 15,000 inhabitants laid out around a single boulevard. That avenue, later named for Egypt’s Gamal Abdel Nasser, would bisect the new city from northeast to southwest, linking airport to seafront district. The initial grid offered order in a landscape of drifting sand, yet it did not account for the waves of migrants who would arrive within ten years.
The droughts and advancing desert of the 1970s drove rural families into Nouakchott in search of relief and opportunity. Arriving with few possessions, they erected temporary camps on the city’s margins. Many lived in tents or hastily assembled cement shacks, giving rise to the neighbourhood known simply as the kebbe. There, structures would appear overnight and be reinforced only as long as they evaded official demolition. By the mid-1980s, the municipal population numbered nearly half a million; by 2013 it stood close to one million, and in 2023 it approached 1.5 million.
Nouakchott is divided into nine arrondissements—Teyarett, Ksar, Tevragh-Zeïna, Toujounine, Sebkha, El Mina, Dar-Naïm, Arafat and Riad—each subdivided into Îlots marked by letters. The Sebkha arrondissement hosts the city’s most extensive open-air market, while Arafat was among the first to receive relocated families under early slum-clearing programmes. Streets bear the names of mid-20th-century statesmen—Charles de Gaulle, John F. Kennedy, Patrice Lumumba—recalling the optimism of African independence movements even as many residents struggled with inadequate water and sanitation.
With much of the city lying at or below sea level, Nouakchott’s planners have learned to accommodate both encroaching dunes and occasional coastal flooding. Engineers and volunteers have erected sand fences and planted rows of three-foot tall grasses to check the shifting earth. Along the coastline, only two small ports break the sweep of open beach: the original fishing harbour and the deepwater Friendship Port opened in 1986. Nearby sandbanks and patches of quicksand remind mariners and pedestrians alike of the land’s restless contours.
The city endures a hot desert climate. Daytime highs seldom fall below 33 °C, and the late summer months—September and October—register the year’s peak temperatures. Coastal breezes moderate the heat only marginally; nights can still dip toward 13 °C in winter. Annual rainfall averages 95 mm, arriving in brief, unpredictable storms. Urban trees line the principal boulevards, offering scant relief from relentless sun and dust.
Nouakchott–Oumtounsy International Airport, inaugurated in June 2016, stands at the city’s northeastern fringe, replacing the earlier, smaller airstrip. From the airport, Avenue Gamal Abdel Nasser sweeps past government ministries and embassies. On the ground, the Cairo–Dakar Highway connects Nouakchott to western Sahelian capitals, while the 1,100-kilometre “Road of Hope” extends southeast toward Néma, threading through Boutilimit and Kiffa. Public minibuses ply major thoroughfares, though many commuters rely on private taxis and informal ride-sharing arrangements. A tramway proposal unveiled in July 2022 promises to diversify options, yet its timetable remains unannounced.
Three-quarters of Mauritania’s service enterprises concentrate in Nouakchott, most of them operating within the city’s informal economy. Markets spill onto dusty plazas, where traders arrange fresh catches at the fish market, bundle threads at the Marocaine bazaar, or trade meteorites salvaged along the desert’s rim. International banks and corporate headquarters cluster downtown, sharing sidewalks with unmarked stalls. The city’s Chinese-built port—once rated for half-a-million tons of annual cargo—handles triple that volume, after a 2009 expansion that added nearly a kilometre of quay.
Government-led resettlement projects have aimed to replace the most precarious settlements with planned housing. In 2009, officials announced the clearance of peripheral slums and the transfer of 24,000 families into neighbourhoods equipped with basic services. By 2013, the World Bank reported that social dwellings had improved living conditions for over 180,000 people. Yet the pace of urban growth continues to test infrastructure, and many newcomers still seek space wherever they can find it.
Amid stark surroundings, Nouakchott sustains a modest cultural circuit. The National Museum and Library preserve colonial archives and Saharan artefacts. Mosques—often modest, sometimes grand—dominate skyline views in every quarter; the Saudi Mosque and Masjid Ibn Abbas stand out for their scaled architecture. A handful of Christian congregations, centred at the Cathedral of Saint Joseph, serve small expatriate and local communities. Evenings bring a quiet exodus to the beaches, where families gather on low dunes to watch sun sink into the Atlantic.
Nouakchott’s story is neither uniform triumph nor unchecked hardship. It is a city perpetually in formation, shaped by movement—of sand, of people, of goods—and by the tension between planned order and spontaneous settlement. Its streets bear traces of ambition and makeshift resolve in equal measure. For all its vulnerability to desert encroachment and seaborne surge, Nouakchott endures through continual adaptation, a living testament to human persistence at the edge of the Sahara.
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Nouakchott is not your typical tourist mecca. Tucked on the Atlantic edge of the Sahara, this sprawling city of sand and sun is Mauritania’s capital and one of the largest settlements in the desert. What Nouakchott lacks in polished infrastructure and old-world charm, it more than makes up for in raw authenticity. The city’s wide boulevards and concrete-block neighborhoods contrast sharply with the vast Sahara dunes just beyond the city limits. Here, local customs and everyday life draw visitors closer to the heart of Mauritanian culture. Against any preconception, Nouakchott offers a striking glimpse of West African hospitality: it is a place where travelers trade comfort for character, and city bustle for wide-open horizons. Patience and an open mind are the ticket to unlocking Nouakchott’s unique experiences. The rewards include lively fish markets at sunset, vast nomadic camel auctions, and encounters with hospitable residents who often know little of modern tourism.
At first glance, Nouakchott can feel overwhelming – the air hangs heavy with heat, and city streets rise and fall with sanddrifts and raw construction. But it’s precisely this rough, unvarnished character that sparks fascination. Nouakchott stands out as a crossroads of cultures: a meeting point of Maghreb tradition and sub-Saharan influences. In its crowded markets and quiet tea courtyards, the synthesis of Moorish heritage and African flavors creates an everyday spectacle. Most travelers arrive planning only to spend a day or two – Nouakchott is commonly seen as a transit hub – but even a short visit can leave a strong impression. From browsing the vivid wares of Marché Capitale to soaking in the sunset over the Atlantic at Plage de Nouakchott, the capital rewards the curious with scenes rarely seen on the typical tourist trail.
This guide is for those adventurous souls willing to venture off the beaten path. Nouakchott is no luxury destination. Instead, it is a test of adaptability, where every corner brings a practical challenge and every handshake starts a story. Over these pages, readers will find detailed advice on travel logistics, cultural norms, safety, and every attraction worth seeking out. From visa procedures to where to find the freshest grilled fish, each topic is covered in depth, with the goal of making any trip to Nouakchott both safer and more enriching. By blending practical information with cultural context, this guide aims to transform impressions of Nouakchott as a difficult stopover into an appreciation of its wild charisma. In short, it’s an invitation to see beyond Nouakchott’s reputation – to follow locals’ whispered suggestions into markets unseen by most foreigners and to sit down for mint tea with storytellers under starry Mauritanian skies. This is Nouakchott in detail: the challenges and comforts, the known highlights and hidden corners, woven into a single, thorough travel narrative.
Table of Contents
Before diving into details, here are the essential facts about Nouakchott, a city of nearly 1.5 million people wedged between the Atlantic and the Sahara.
Although this “essential info” covers the basics, the sections below unpack each topic in context. From visa requirements to weather quirks, the goal is to make Nouakchott less mysterious and more accessible for any prepared traveler.
The climate in Nouakchott is starkly desert-like: long, scorching summers and brief, milder winters. The most comfortable time to visit is late fall through early spring. From November through March, daily highs typically range 22–28°C (72–82°F), with pleasantly cool nights (down to 12–16°C or 54–61°F). Morning and evening breezes off the ocean can be refreshing, and clear blue skies prevail. These months are ideal for outdoor exploration: the fish markets are busy, and walking around the city or visiting nearby beaches is bearable.
By contrast, April through October is extremely hot. Daily highs regularly reach 33–38°C (91–100°F) from May to September. The peak of summer (July–August) can see even higher temperatures with intense humidity, thanks to winds off the ocean in late summer. Afternoon storms and rare summer showers can occur in August and September, but they are short-lived and followed by higher humidity.
In winter and spring, another weather factor appears: the Harmattan. This is a dry, dusty wind blowing from the Sahara across much of West Africa roughly December to February. When Harmattan is strong, the city can be engulfed in fine orange dust, visibility drops, and surfaces accumulate sand. It can be uncomfortable for sensitive travelers and may disrupt flights or ferry schedules. Protective eyewear and masks (or scarves) are wise during heavy dust episodes. But aside from occasional dust, winter is generally the most tolerable and scenic season.
Summers (Jun–Sep): Expect extreme heat, especially inland. Try to schedule early-morning outings and rest midday. Very few travelers come in this season unless on business or emergency.
Winters (Nov–Feb): Ideal for visiting – daytime warmth and cool nights. Rainfall is minimal (often 0–2 mm/month) so days are mostly dry and sunny. Shoulder seasons (Mar, Oct): Hot and dry. March can already feel very hot, and October still has summer heat. Only consider them if unavoidable.
In summary: plan Nouakchott for November–March if possible. This avoids the worst of the heat and dust, making everything from city walks to day trips far more enjoyable.
Most travelers find 1–2 days in Nouakchott sufficient. The city’s sights can be covered fairly quickly, and Nouakchott often serves as a gateway to deeper Mauritania rather than the main destination. In 24 hours you can see the highlights: a morning at the National Museum or markets, an afternoon at the fish market (Port de Pêche), and sunset at the beach. With two days, you can add some cultural centers, another market, and acclimate to the pace of local life without rushing.
What should one expect? Be realistic: Nouakchott is a bustling capital marked more by size and survival than by tourist comforts. Do not expect well-kept parks, luxurious restaurants, or vibrant nightlife. Instead, travelers will find a city of contrasts: new buildings and project housing next to informal neighborhoods; mosques next to market stalls; camel caravans on dusty roads outside town, and family-owned cafes tucked between concrete apartment blocks.
Who enjoys Nouakchott? Adventurous visitors who appreciate authentic cultural exchange will find it rewarding. The city’s markets, especially, offer a window into Mauritanian daily life. Fishmongers shouting prices, vendors selling spices and fabrics, and the ritual of mint tea provide rich experiences. In the evenings, meeting locals in a café over a cushioned sofa or sharing chai in a family home can become the trip’s highlight.
Who might dislike it? Travelers seeking polished tourism or nightlife will likely be disappointed. Souvenirs are rough-hewn, roads can be sandy, and the lack of non-Islamic entertainment (no bars, no clubs) can frustrate some. Roads outside the main districts are often unpaved and dusty. In all, one should come prepared to adapt, valuing the human stories over creature comforts.
In short: Nouakchott is worth visiting for its realism. It shows the challenges and charm of an African desert capital in evolution. If one’s goals include expansive beaches, gourmet dining, or historic architecture, Nouakchott will disappoint. But if one seeks to understand Mauritania’s people and place, then Nouakchott provides a rich introduction – one where even mundane moments (haggling over a carpet price, or riding in a crowded shared taxi) become cultural immersion.
Mauritania has streamlined its visa process in recent years. All nationalities (even those that previously could obtain visa on arrival) must secure an electronic visa (e-visa) before travel. The official application portal is operated by Mauritania’s government (as of 2025). Applicants prepare by scanning passport pages, a photo, and filling in travel dates and accommodations. The process is straightforward but requires patience: most sources recommend applying at least two weeks in advance in case the site has glitches or delays.
Important details: – Cost: The e-visa application fee is €55 (about $60 USD) for tourism. Payment for the e-visa is made on arrival at the airport or border, not online. You must bring the exact amount in cash (Euros or dollars) to pay the visa fee. (Credit cards are not accepted for the fee.) – Payment: Keep small bills (exact € or $). They will not make change for you when paying the visa fee. – Processing: If the online system seems to fail or not confirm, seek help. Diplomatic or government sources say to email the Mauritanian population registry (contact@anrpts.gov.mr) for technical issues. – Validity: The tourist e-visa is typically valid for a single entry, up to 30 days.
When you land in Nouakchott, present the e-visa confirmation at check-in for your flight and again at immigration. There is a visa-on-arrival payment station at the airport. After paying, the Immigration officer will stamp your passport with the entry visa.
Nouakchott–Oumtounsy (airport code NKC) is Mauritania’s busiest airport. Many long-haul flights arrive late at night or very early morning. The airport itself has basic facilities:
Before you leave arrivals, carry only a small bag with valuables or travel documents. Taxis might not be metered or regulated inside; if possible arrange a hotel pick-up in advance to avoid haggling at midnight.
Mauritania is malaria-free in the capital and nearby coastal areas, but the interior (especially the south) has some risk. Standard vaccinations (polio, tetanus, hepatitis A and B, typhoid, measles) are recommended. The government does require proof of yellow fever vaccination if you arrive from a country with risk of yellow fever (including many African nations). The classic yellow card (Carte Jaune) should be on hand if you transit through West Africa. Mauritania does not have any HIV or other restrictions on entry.
Other notes: – Passport: Must have at least 6 months validity remaining. Always carry the original passport; even though police will often take a photocopy (see Fiche below), keep the passport safe. – Fiche (Passport Copy): Mauritania has a bureaucratic custom: every police checkpoint may demand your “fiche,” a photocopy of your passport data page. Travelers are advised to make 20 or more color photocopies of their passport before arriving, and keep them accessible. Police will require you to hand over one each time. If you cannot provide a fiche, you will have to provide all details by hand in a log book – extremely tedious. Most hotels or guesthouses can provide photocopies. – Photocopies: Besides the fiche, it’s wise to carry copies of your flight itinerary, hotel reservation, and travel insurance in case authorities ask.
With documents and visa squared away, your Nouakchott adventure can begin. Next, we turn to how to reach the capital.
The fastest way to reach Nouakchott is by air. Nouakchott–Oumtounsy (NKC) is served by several international carriers:
Though most travelers fly, Nouakchott can be reached by road:
Because Nouakchott lies at a road junction between Senegal, Western Sahara, and Mali (though Mali travel is forbidden by many governments), most independent tourists simply fly. Those taking buses from Dakar should plan to arrive in Nouakchott by late afternoon. Road travel is typically scenic (the Sahel landscape), but sometimes lengthy and dusty; bring enough snacks, water, and patience.
Nouakchott’s airport is modest. It was rebuilt as a new terminal (Ouamheir) in 2016, but still has limited services:
Taxis: The only regular way from the airport is by taxi. There are no buses or ride-shares. A typical taxi to downtown Nouakchott runs €30–50 (20,000–30,000 UM). Fares are negotiable – insist on a meter or a fixed price before you get in. Late-night arrivals mean few other tourists to compare with, so be prepared to bargain. Taxi drivers will insist on cash in Ouguiya or Euros. Having small denominations is helpful. Expect the ride to take 45–60 minutes depending on traffic (which can be heavy on certain inner roads). If possible, ask your hotel to arrange an official transfer ahead of arrival (many mid-to-upper range hotels offer pickups for around €40).
Hotel Pick-ups: Many mid-range hotels and all the better ones will pick you up for a flat fee (often around €35–40). This saves negotiating with taxi drivers at 2 a.m. and avoids potential scams. If you have booked in advance, confirm the pickup price and process.
Prepaid Airport Taxi: There is a desk where a uniformed officer assigns you to a driver. This taxi will likely be more expensive (closer to 3,000–4,000 UM). If you choose it for peace of mind, be ready to pay a premium.
Once in the city, you will be dropped near the center or your hotel in Tevragh-Zeina, Gandhi, or Kennedy Avenue area, depending on your destination. Keep in mind: streets in Nouakchott are often only numbered or known by locals (carry an address card). Taxis in town do not use meters, so clarify the fare at the start or as you negotiate.
The main way locals get around Nouakchott is via shared taxis (sometimes called sept-places because they often cram seven passengers into a small car) or guagua minibuses. Here’s how they work:
ClassRide is a local app-based ride service akin to Uber. It works as follows:
In most cases, shared taxis and occasional ClassRides will suffice for sightseeing and city navigation. Pedestrians should be cautious: traffic rules are often lax, and street crossings can be risky. Always cross carefully and carry minimal valuables.
Nouakchott’s backstory is brief but dramatic. Until the late 1950s it was a small fishing village (the name itself means “place of the winds” in Berber). When Mauritania gained independence from France in 1960, leaders chose Nouakchott as the new capital – in part because it lay between groups of different ethnicities, avoiding favoring either Arab-Berber north or Black African south. French architects laid out a grid meant for just 15,000 people. But nature intervened: droughts in the 1970s drove nomadic herders into the city, and by the 1980s the population was hundreds of thousands. Today, those refugee waves are cited as the origin of Nouakchott’s sprawling slums.
The evolution of the city is ongoing. Official neighborhoods (often named in French: Nouakchott Nord, Sud, etc.) coexist with informal districts like Ksar (the old quarter) and Cinquième (Fifth district, once a government market). New zones are constantly under construction or at risk from sand. Despite limited planning, the city has managed to grow into Mauritania’s political and economic hub. Government buildings line broad avenues, apartment blocks stand in clusters, and markets have become semi-permanent fixtures under corrugated roofs.
Nouakchott feels disconnected, more a cluster of neighborhoods than a single center. Key areas include:
Navigating Nouakchott: Streets are often only named or numbered, and signage can be scarce. Landmarks (large mosques, roundabouts with art, or high-rise buildings) help for direction. Using landmarks like the tall Société Nationale Industrielle et Minière tower or the huge Saudi-funded mosque in the center can orient you. Locals usually give directions by street names (Avenue de Gaulle, Rue Kennedy) or major intersections.
The climate table aside, a traveler should expect dry heat and dusty winds. For packing, bring sunscreen, lightweight cotton or linen clothes (covering arms and legs for modesty and sun protection), and a wide-brimmed hat. Sunglasses and dust-protective scarves or masks are recommended for windblown days. Air conditioning is not ubiquitous, so a travel fan or cooling towel is a bonus. Also note: power cuts can occur, so a flashlight/headlamp and portable charger for phones are wise.
During the rainy season (usually Aug–Sep), heavy downpours can cause flash floods on unpaved streets. If traveling then, a small umbrella or rain jacket may help. Otherwise, dust is the real enemy: cameras, electronics, and even food can get gritty.
Mauritania is a conservative Islamic country. Social life, law, and customs are shaped by Sunni Islam. Important points:
Mauritanian hospitality is a standout: locals are generally curious and generous. It is not unusual to be invited into a home for tea or food, especially by people of local tribes. If that happens, accept graciously; it’s a genuine gesture of warmth. Saying “shukran” (thank you in Arabic) or “wo yirham waldik” (may God bless you) is appreciated.
Female travelers should take care. Conservative Muslim attire is the safest bet: long flowing dresses or long skirts/pants with loose tops, and a lightweight scarf for the head, especially in rural areas. In popular areas like near the Presidential Palace or main markets, you might see women in Western clothes, but they usually cover some body and hair. During the daytime in summers, breezy fabrics are preferable to avoid heat rash and ease movement. At night, a light shawl is useful as mosques and some restaurants have air conditioning that can feel chilly.
Locals rarely get offended by foreign dress, but immodesty can draw unwanted attention. Some travelers say that wearing at least a loose, long-sleeved shirt and covering knees significantly reduces stares. In any case, observe women around you and err on the conservative side. Scarves can double as dust protection. In mosques, women are not allowed inside, but those with headscarves can often look at the exterior or enter a women’s area if it exists (though most big city mosques do not have separate facilities for tourists).
Men should avoid shorts except for beach (where any decent-length shorts are generally okay). Shirts should have sleeves; tank tops may be tolerated on the beach or by private pools but avoid in city. A casual button-up or polo is safer for daytime outings. Shaving is common; a neatly trimmed beard is fine, but a deliberately styled or dyed one may stand out. If entering a mosque’s courtyard (non-Muslims cannot go inside), men should remove shoes and wear long pants. On the beach, men wear regular swim trunks.
If wearing the local daraa (baggy hooded robe) or jalabiya, a gift shop or market can supply one, but be aware the climate is hot and such robes may feel heavy in sun.
The official language is Arabic, specifically the local Hassaniya dialect. In practice, French is widely used in business, government, and schools. You’ll encounter French in signage, on official forms, and spoken in urban centers. English is very rare outside the main hotels or international NGOs. Travel phrases in French will take you far. A few key Arabic phrases: “Salam alaykum” (hello), “Labas?” (how are you?), “Inchallah” (God willing; often said to mean “hopefully” or “we’ll see”), “Barakallahu fik” (blessing you; used as thanks).
For navigating: Carry a few printed phrases or have Google Translate handy. Maps are improving but still unreliable in peripheral areas. Nouakchott’s roads often change or have new construction, so offline maps apps (Mapquest, etc.) and asking locals for landmarks is helpful.
In shops and markets, price negotiations usually happen in French or Arabic numbers. If stuck, carry a small notebook to do simple math conversions from dollars or euros to ouguiya (100 MRU ≈ 2.5 USD as of 2024). Large denominations of ouguiya are rare: 5000 MRU note is maximum (about $125), so you’ll likely handle many bills for everyday purchases.
Nouakchott’s sights will not impress the travel guide seeking architectural marvels. Instead, the city’s attractions are experiences of local life and culture. Here are the must-sees:
While Nouakchott’s attractions may sound sparse, each tells the story of Mauritania’s identity. The markets and mosques reveal social fabric; the beach and desert outskirts reveal geography. Taken together, Nouakchott’s sites show how a modern capital was born from age-old traditions.
A UNESCO World Heritage marine reserve lies north of Nouakchott: Parc National du Banc d’Arguin. It is a vast coastal wetlands that hosts millions of migratory birds. Birdwatchers and nature lovers prize it. To reach Banc d’Arguin, one typically arranges a tour or hires a 4×4 driver (no public transit). The park is about 80–150 km north depending on entry point. A typical day trip: depart Nouakchott early, drive along Atlantic desert scenery, reach the park’s edge after 2–3 hours. Permits cost a small fee. Local Imraguen fishermen still drive wooden boats, and you might see flocks of flamingos, pelicans, herons in the shallow waters. The park has a few fixed camps (often with basic tents) or guesthouses on the islands. A remote but magical stop, it rewards with wildlife, desert tranquility, and sunsets over empty beaches. (Most people sleep overnight in simple bungalows at Iwik or elsewhere within the park; with pre-arrangement, some tours run quick returns to Nouakchott by dusk.)
In practice, Nouakchott day trips are limited by distance. Banc d’Arguin is the main one. If time is very short, consider skipping day trips and instead using Nouakchott as a base for varied one- or two-day itineraries within the city itself.
Regardless of category, wifi service is generally slow in Nouakchott and often limited to public areas. If staying longer, consider a local SIM for data. Also, power outages happen; a hotel with a backup generator is a plus (ask in advance).
Mauritania’s culinary heritage blends Maghreb, sub-Saharan, and French influences, but it remains quite simple and hearty. Key points:
Meals are typically communal: a large bowl in the center with everyone pulling portions with their right hand (often scooping rice with bread as a scoop). A travel spoon is handy for hygiene and practicality as a compromise in public settings.
Eating out in Nouakchott offers a variety of options, though dining is simple:
Street Food Safety: The city is relatively safe for street food, but standard precautions apply. Eat cooked food; avoid salads unless you know the water source. Bottled water is cheap – drink it. At least drink from sealed bottles or boil/filter tap water for brushing teeth.
Travelers seeking alcohol have two unofficial options: Buy from expatriate-run spots (e.g. a place called A Casa Portuguesa is rumored to pour wine, though unadvertised), or smuggle it in from neighboring Senegal (expensive and risky). Neither is recommended. It is far better to embrace the local norm. Many visitors report that giving up alcohol for a week or two is a small price for experiencing a predominantly Muslim African country in its own right.
Markets in Nouakchott are treasure troves of unusual finds – if you have the time (and skill at bargaining). Souvenirs to look for include:
Bargaining Tips: In Nouakchott, haggling is normal and expected. Start at about 30% of the first price offered, smile, and play along. Always remain polite. If the seller is adamant, try to find the same item at another stall to compare price. Never feel obligated to buy; walking away is the strongest card. After a price is agreed, check the item for obvious defects (loose leather, chipped enamel, etc.) before finalizing. It’s also wise to carry a small pouch of cash with smaller notes, since many sellers won’t have much change for big bills (1000 UM ~ $2.50, so bring a mix of 5000, 1000, and 500 UM notes).
Mauritania uses the Ouguiya (MRU). Be aware that in 2018 Mauritania redenominated the currency (old ouguiya / 5 = new ouguiya). Only the new currency is in circulation now, so older notes are no longer used. Coins (5, 10, 20 MRU) exist but see little use outside markets. Banknotes come in 200, 500, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10000, and (now) 20000 MRU denominations.
Mauritania can be surprisingly expensive for foreign tastes, because almost everything must be imported or is luxury. However, a frugal budget traveler can manage roughly $30–40 (around 15,000–20,000 UM) per day if sleeping in dorms and eating street food. Mid-range travelers might spend $60–80/day.
Overall, Nouakchott is neither extremely cheap nor lavish. Planning daily cash needs ahead and carrying a bit extra buffer is smart, as ATMs may not rescue you.
Internet in Nouakchott is limited but accessible:
Nouakchott is generally safe by large-city West African standards, but it has its risks:
If you keep common-sense precautions—don’t flash cash, don’t wander away from main streets alone at night, and be aware of street children asking for money—you should stay out of major trouble. Mauritanians tend to be warm and helpful; it is when outsiders lapse in caution that issues arise.
Remember the fiche (passport photocopies). You may pass dozens of police checkpoints by vehicle, each requiring a fiche. Always carry a handful (it’s okay to reuse copies; they often leave them with police until your next checkpoint). If walking (very uncommon for tourists outside market areas), police may stop you too – better to have an extra passport copy on hand. Making 20–30 copies before travel saves major hassle later.
Overall, health and safety in Nouakchott is manageable for cautious travelers. It’s an urban environment with known risks. Being well-prepared makes the city feel safer than media reputation suggests.
One Day in Nouakchott: Start early with a hearty Mauritanian breakfast (couscous or bread & jam) at your hotel. In the morning, visit the National Museum to absorb history. From there walk or taxi to Marché Capitale for spice and fabric shopping; have lunch of grilled chicken or fish at a nearby stand. In the afternoon head to Port de Pêche (Fish Market): watch fishermen unload and join locals buying seafood. Stay until late afternoon light for great photos. Next, take a break at the beach to relax and meet locals. Evening: visit the Camel Market (if a trip is arranged) or stroll through Centenaire Mosque area to see locals in prayer. End with dinner at a simple rooftop restaurant in Tevragh-Zeina, sipping mint tea under the stars.
Two Days in Nouakchott: Day 1 as above. Day 2, begin with the Marché Cinquième (Fifth District market) for a more local shopping experience (good for leather and silver). Then tour the Centre Culturel Français – check for any exhibitions or film screening. Have lunch at the center’s café. In the afternoon, explore Galerie Zeinart or the National Library for cultural exposure. Around sunset, take a taxi to the beach (Plage de Nouakchott) for local family life on the shore. Dine on fresh grilled fish by the beach, then return downtown for a final walk through the lit-up market streets.
Time permitting on Day 2, you could even squeeze in a horse ride on the beach (available near the north end) or arrange a half-day Banc d’Arguin trip with a local operator.
With more days, you might alternate a restful beach morning, or see more remote markets (Dar Naim open-air market) and try Mauritanian street food (like malwi, a local pancake). Each day, vary meals between street grills and little cafés to get a range of experiences.
After Nouakchott, many travelers continue into Mauritania’s interior or beyond:
Mauritania’s roads outside Nouakchott can be unpredictable. Weigh overnight coaches’ comfort vs. speed. If self-driving is in your itinerary, ensure a 4×4 and local guidance (the police like to stop foreign-driven vehicles for checks).
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