Grenada

The majority of Grenadian citizens (82%) are descendants of African slaves brought by the British and French; few of the indigenous Carib and Arawak populations survived the French purge in Sauteurs. A small percentage of descendants of Indian indentured labourers were brought to Grenada between 1 May 1857 and 10 January 1885, mainly from the northern Indian states of Bihar and Uttar Pradesh. Today, Grenadians of Indian origin are the second largest ethnic group. There is also a small community of French and English descendants. The rest of the population is of mixed descent (13 %).

Grenada, like many Caribbean islands, is subject to high levels of out-migration, with many young people wanting to leave the island to seek a life elsewhere. With 110,000 people living in Grenada, estimates and census data suggest that there are at least as many Grenadian-born people in other parts of the Caribbean (such as Barbados and Trinidad) and at least as many in first world countries. Popular migration points for Grenadians further north are New York, Toronto, Britain (especially London and Yorkshire; see Grenadians in Britain) and sometimes Montreal, or as far south as Australia. This means that about a third of those born in Grenada still live there.

The official language, English, is used by the government, but Grenadian Creole is considered the lingua franca of the island. French Patois (Antillean Creole) is also spoken by about 10-20% of the population. Some Hindi/Bhojpuri expressions are still spoken among Indian descendants, mainly those related to cooking, such as aloo, geera, karela, seim, chownkay and baylay. The term bhai, which means “brother” in Urdu and Hindi, is a common form of greeting between Indian-Grenadian men of equal rank.

Religion

The following statistics are taken from the World Factbook

• Roman Catholic 44.6%.
• Protestants 43.5
  • Anglicans 11.5%.
  • Pentecostal 11.3
  • Seventh-day Adventists 10.5
  • Baptiste 2.9%.
  • Church of God 2:6
  • Methodist 1.8
  • Evangelicals 1.6
• Other 1.3
• Jehovah’s Witnesses 1.1 %.
• Rastafarians 1.1
• Other 6.2 %.
• None 3.6

The climate is tropical: hot and humid during the rainy season and cooled by trade winds during the dry season. Grenada, which lies on the southern edge of the hurricane belt, has experienced only three hurricanes in fifty years.

Hurricane Janet passed over Grenada on 23 September 1955 with winds of 185 km/h (115 mph) and caused severe damage. The most recent storms were Hurricane Ivan on 7 September 2004, which caused severe damage and thirty-nine deaths, and Hurricane Emily on 14 July 2005, which caused severe damage in Carriacou and northern Grenada, which had been relatively unaffected by Hurricane Ivan.

Standard (British) English is the official language of Grenada and is widely spoken. However, an English-based creole (not referred to as such by locals) is the dominant language of most Grenadians and can be difficult for people outside the Caribbean to understand. French patois was once the dialect language spoken in Grenada, but it survives only among older generations and in scattered areas. Most Grenadians know only a few words.

Economic progress under fiscal reforms and prudent macroeconomic management has raised annual growth to 5-6% in 1998-99; increased economic activity has been led by construction and trade. Tourism facilities are being expanded; tourism is the main source of foreign exchange. In the short term, the main concerns are the widening fiscal deficit and deteriorating external balance. Grenada shares a common central bank and a common currency (the Eastern Caribbean dollar) with seven other members of the Organisation of Eastern Caribbean States (OECS).

Grenada is a leading producer of many different spices. Cinnamon, cloves, ginger, mace, allspice, orange and citrus peel, wild coffee used by the locals and especially nutmeg, which accounts for 20% of world production, are important exports. Grenada is the second largest nutmeg producer in the world (after Indonesia), with nutmeg featured on Grenada’s flag.

Tourism is Grenada’s most important economic force. Conventional beach and water sports tourism is largely concentrated in the southwestern region, around St. George, the airport and the coastal strip. Ecotourism is becoming increasingly important. Most of the small eco-friendly guesthouses are located in the communities of Saint David and Saint John. The tourism industry is growing dramatically with the construction of a large cruise ship pier and plaza. Up to four cruise ships per day visited St. George during the 2007-2008 cruise season.

St George’s University has grown rapidly in recent years and has a major economic impact, especially in the southern parts of the island. Although some of the approximately 5,000 students are from Grenada, including many undergraduate students, and many medical students rotate off-island, the majority of students come from other countries and bring significant income to the island during their studies. St George’s University is one of the largest employers on the island and students patronise many landlords and other off-campus businesses.

The Grenada Chocolate Company is a pioneer in the cultivation of organic cocoa, which is also processed into finished bars.

Tourism is concentrated in the southwest of the island, around St. George, Grand Anse, Lance Aux Epines and Point Salines. Grenada has many idyllic beaches along its coastline, including the 3 km long Grand Anse Beach in St. George, which is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the world and is often listed in the top ten beaches in the world. Besides these excellent beaches, the waterfalls are Grenada’s most popular tourist attractions. The closest is Annandale Waterfall, but others such as Mt. Carmel, Concord, Seven Sisters and Tufton Hall are easily accessible.

Maurice Bishop International Airport offers flights to other Caribbean islands, the United States, Canada and Europe. There is a daily fast ferry service between St George and Hillsborough.

A valid passport and a return or onward ticket are required. Citizens of the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom and its dependencies, British Commonwealth countries, Caribbean countries (except Cuba), Venezuela, European Union countries and their dependencies, Norway, Japan, Israel and Russia do not require a visa.

Allowances – Personal effects, a total of one litre of wine and spirits, half a pound of tobacco or 50 cigars or 200 cigarettes. No restrictions on the amount of money that can be brought in. Restricted items are fruit, vegetables, meat, soil, illegal drugs, firearms and ammunition.

Maurice Bishop International Airport (IATA: GND) is located on the main island of Grenada, on a peninsula in the extreme southwest of the Point Salines region. It is about 6 km from the capital St. George’s. Delta (New York JFK, Atlanta), British Airways, American Eagle, American Airlines, Monarch, Air Canada (winter season), Virgin Atlantic (UK), Liat, Caribbean Airlines, Condor (Germany – winter season), Air Transat (Toronto – rare?) and Conviasa (VE) (from Porlamar, Margarita) fly directly to Grenada; connections can be made with Liat via Trinidad and Barbados and from Barbados via SVG Airlines.

• Many cruise ships dock at or near St. George’s between October and May. In 2005, a large cruise terminal was completed that can dock four ships at a time. The terminal’s “shopping mall” houses many shops, some typical of Caribbean cruises, others unique to the island.

Private moorings for yachts are available all over the island.

• Osprey Lines, +1 473 440-8126, ferry service between the islands of Grenada, Carriacou and Petite Martinique.
• Charters in different sizes and with different crews can be found by enquiring at hotels or the Grenada Yacht Club in St George’s, or on the island’s official tourism website: www.grenadagrenadines.com.

The city centre has many narrow and hilly streets. Drivers are very careful, but caution is advised as some streets have very narrow or no pavements.

The town also has the most picturesque horseshoe harbour in the Caribbean, with restaurants, shops and supermarkets. During the winter cruise season (between November and May), a lovely little tourist train, the Grenada Discovery Train, offers a shuttle service through the city that includes admission to the city’s main attractions. For more information on this service, see the ‘Buy’ section.

Getting around St. George is done by taxi, minibus or rental car. Hailing a taxi is similar to other parts of the world: hold out your hand and wave to the driver. Taxis have an “H” on their number plate. Independent but government-licensed cars and vans stop and ask if anyone wants a ride. Typical fares are EC$30 from the airport to St George’s and EC$25 to EC$40 for rides between most hotels and various restaurants in town.

Buses are the standard mode of transport in Grenada. They are minivans with room for 15-19 people, marked with route numbers and signs. There is a bus station in the centre of town (Melville Street) and there are designated bus stops in and around town. However, once you leave the city, you can identify a stop by knocking on the side of the bus or pressing the stop button. The drivers and conductors are always very friendly, so don’t hesitate to ask them where to stop. Bus fares range from EC$2.50 to EC$10, depending on the distance. They are lively rides, with good music and a nice breeze.

Cars can be rented at prices ranging from USD50 to USD75 per day. If you have a valid driver’s licence from your home country, you can get a temporary Grenada driver’s licence, which can be obtained at any police station for EC$30. Drive on the left side of the road and use your car horn frequently to avoid the many blind curves in the mountains.

Water taxis are another way to get around – between the cruise terminal, Grand Anse beach and the Carenage.

• Grenada
  By far the largest island, home to the majority of the country’s population
• Karriacou
  The second largest island on which the town of Hillsborough is located
• Little Martinique
  A third, remote island with limited tourist facilities.

• St. George’s – National Capital
• Grand Anse Bay – Main Tourist Area
• Gouyave – capital of the St. John district – home of the weekly Fish Friday event.
• Jumper – Capital of the St. Patrick’s District
• Grenville – Capital of the St. Andrew District
• Hillsborough – Capital of Carriacou

There is so much to see in Grenada…. historic forts, lakes, waterfalls, spice plantations – some of which are still in operation today, spice gardens, flower gardens (Grenada won its 7th gold medal at the Chelsea Flower Show in London in 2009), rum distilleries (with generous samples), plantation houses, Amerindian petroglyphs, etc.

Note: Some of the locations listed below may be closed on Saturdays and Sundays. Please check beforehand.

• Belmont Estate is located in St. Patrick, just an hour’s drive from the island’s capital, St. George. Belmont Estate is a unique and authentic 17th century plantation that offers visitors the opportunity to participate in and observe the operation of a fully functional historic plantation. Belmont Estate has entered into a strategic alliance with the Grenada Chocolate Company to produce the finest organic dark chocolate in the world. The Grenada Chocolate Company and Belmont Estate are members of the Grenada Organic Cocoa Farmers Co-operative Society Ltd, which grows organic cocoa to produce the product. The co-operative is made up of a dozen farmers who have received organic certification from Ceres, a German certification company. The property’s gourmet restaurant is usually closed on weekends, but reservations are recommended on other days.
• Grand Etang Nature Reserve is located in St Andrew Parish and is famous for its crater lake.
• Mount Qua Qua is a mountain located in the Grand Etang nature reserve.
• Mount St Catherine is Grenada’s highest mountain at 840m.
• Concord Falls are three waterfalls located in Concord, St. John.
• Annandale Falls in the St George District.
• Mt Carmel Waterfall is the highest waterfall in Grenada.
• Seven Sister Waterfalls is a group of 7 waterfalls near the Grand Etang Nature Reserve in St Andrew.
• Honeymoon Waterfall is isolated in the rainforest, near Seven Sisters Falls.
• The River Antoine Rum Distillery is the oldest rum factory in the Western Hemisphere and still uses a water wheel.
• Clark’s Court Distillery, located in the St. George district, is famous for its wide variety of rum products.
• Westerhall Rum Distillery Westerhall Estate in St David’s. Visit the museum. Tour the ruins and sample the award-winning rums.
• Dougaldston Estate is the oldest spice plantation in Grenada, near Gouyave, in the parish of St. John.
• The Gouyave nutmeg factory is a “must see” on Grenada, the “Island of Spices”.
• Carib’s Leap: a historic site in the north of the island where the last Carib Indians jumped off a high cliff.
• Grand Anse Beach: Grenada’s most famous beach and tourist area.
• Morne Rouge Bay is one of Grenada’s most beautiful beaches, secluded and close to the Grand Anse area.
• Levera Beach: beautiful, secluded beach north of Grenada with views of the Grenadines.
• Bathway Beach: a famous black sand beach in the north of Grenada with a natural pool.
• Black Bay Beach: secluded black beach on the west coast of Grenada (near Concord Waterfalls).
• Fort George above the main town of St George’s with a beautiful view of the town and the Carenage.
• Fort Frederick, situated above the sea, offers an exceptional view of St George, Grand Anse, Grand Etang and the southern part of the island.
• Caribbean market with a newly renovated spice hall in St George’s – ideal for spices and fresh fruit and vegetables.
• Bay Gardens: a tropical garden with a rainforest feel – located in the St. Paul’s district of St. George.
• “The Faculty of Medicine at St George’s University opened in 1976 and now offers a variety of graduate programmes. The True Blue campus offers stunning panoramic views of the South Island and is ideal for watching the sunset.

• Gouyave Fish Friday. Gouyave is known as the town that never sleeps. It’s a great evening drive to this fishing village on the west coast. Don’t be afraid to venture out. It’s perfectly safe and frequented by tourists and international medical students. The food is fresh, cheap and cooked right in front of you. There is festive music, lots of children running around and the night ends with a party in the various nightclubs. You can get a good meal and a few beers for less than $10 US. Lobster, prawns and fresh fish, straight from the water, are prepared in various forms. Dress casually, with comfortable walking shoes, and check out all the stalls and offerings before deciding what to eat. It is actually possible to catch a bus to Gouyave from the tourist areas, for about US$2, but if you plan to stay longer, there is no guarantee of getting back to town after 8pm. Therefore, a taxi or a car on call is the best option. Some hotels and land-based tour operators also offer excursions to take you to and from Fish Friday. Gouyave is full of “characters” who would do nothing but entertain you. Don’t worry if they are too friendly. You won’t risk being harassed by scammers as the locals are very protective of guests who visit their flagship event.
• Diving and snorkelling. The island has an abundance of underwater sites (both on Grenada and Carriacou) and the world’s first underwater sculpture park. The island is known as the diving capital of the Eastern Caribbean. It is home to the largest wreck in the Caribbean – the Bianca C – a 600-foot-long cruise ship that sank in 1961 and now lies in 167 feet of water. There are over 50 dive sites, including reefs, wrecks and drop-offs, most within a 5-15 minute boat ride from the dive shops.
• Tubing on the river, hiking, mountain biking, sports and family activities.
• Get married! Weddings are legal and you only need to be on the island for 3 days (including weekends); beautiful and unusual wedding locations (beaches, waterfalls, forts).
• Every week, a different route is set up somewhere on the island for walkers and runners. A great way to experience the beauty of Grenada and get to know the locals and visitors. http://www.facebook.com/groups/grenadahash/ or http://grenadahash.com/home Beware of the island’s steep slopes, dense jungle and roads without shoulders, which can pose particular risks.

• Sailing. Day sailing charters are offered by various companies; dinghy cruises are also possible by hiring your own dinghy.
• Grenada Discovery Train, St. George Cruise Terminal. 0.45. Unique guided tours of the city of St. George on Grenada’s only trackless tourist train. The train departs from the cruise terminal on cruise days and takes you to the city’s most interesting sights, such as Fort George and the National Museum. Tickets can be purchased at the Esplanade Mall kiosk (cruise terminal) or on board the train. Departures are every 45 minutes and tickets include free entry to Fort George and the National Museum. It’s a great way to explore the steep streets of St George in comfort with information on history and “local colour” on board. 15$-20$.

• Aquarium Restaurant & Bar. Located in Point Salines on the beach, famous for its Sunday barbecue.
• Bananas Restaurant is located in True Blue and offers something for every budget and taste. Whether you’re looking for a cheeseburger in paradise or steak and lobster, you’re sure to find it at this affordable and fun restaurant and bar. For the adventurous: Stay and dance the night away at the state-of-the-art club. [www]
• The Coconut Beach Restaurant & Bar is located directly on the beach in Grand Anse.
• The Beach House Restaurant & Bar is located in Point Salines.
• The Red Crab in Lance Aux Epines on the main road and has a fabulous menu.
• Spiceland Mall in Grand Anse has a food court with a smoothie stand with local fruits, a Chinese restaurant and a Mediterranean/Middle Eastern restaurant.
• Le Marquis complex in Grand Anse with Carib Sushi and Le Boulangerie (a pizzeria).
• The Papillion Cafe in Grand Anse at the Siesta Hotel. All day breakfast, lunch, great fresh food and service. Start your day here.
• From La Grenade. Producer of nutmeg products such as liqueurs, syrups, pepper sauce, jams and jellies.
• Grenade Chocolate Factory. It produces organic dark chocolate with old-fashioned, solar-powered machines. You should be able to find these colourfully packaged bars in shops around the island and in the duty-free shop at the airport. A tour of the factory itself is also very interesting.
• Dodgy Dock Restaurant & Lounge Bar, True Blue Bay Resort (True Blue at SGU), +1 473 443 8783. 7am to 11pm. Waterfront dining, popular spot for lunch and famous spot for sunsets and parties. Caribbean and Mexican cuisine, happy hour daily at 5pm.
• Umbrellas Beach Bar on Grand Anse Beach. A famous “liming spot” on the island, known for its burgers, fresh food and cold drinks. Casual upper and lower deck, you can walk up from the beach with your sandy feet.

Grenada is known for its rum distilleries. The three main ones are Clarke’s Court, Westerhall Estate and River Antoine. All three offer educational tours showing how sugar is made for rum. They are all located in different parts of the island.

• Westerhall Estate produces a family of award-winning rums, including a 3, 8 and 10 year old rum. Their special rum (with the wax casing), Westerhall Plantation and Westerhall Vintage, is probably the best rum on the island. Along with their Jack Iron and White Jack surproof rums. Their new 12 Degrees Premium Rum is delicious!
• Clarke’s Court produces special light and dark rums that are also delicious.
• Be warned about the Antoine River. Because of its 75% alcohol content, it is illegal to take it home in many countries, at least on flights. There is a 69% version for “export” that may be legal.
• In all distilleries you can at least buy small bottles, and in most grocery and rum shops you will find normal sizes.

In many bars, look out for drinks made with “under the counter” ingredients, such as the very oversalted “local” rums often used in “pain killers”. They can overwhelm even the most experienced drinker. The fruit juices used are made from locally grown fruits such as mango, papaya, star fruit (five finger fruit). Some “water points” (often offering food) are…

• Pirate’s Cove Restaurant and Jolly Roger Sports Bar“.
• Grand View Inn, Grand Anse, +1 473 444 2342, +1 473 444 4984. B- 7-10, L- 11-2, D- 7-9. Local cuisine, banquets, catering and parties. Excellent view of the island.
• The Bakery. Italian restaurant opposite the Spiceland shopping centre. Serves pizza and pasta, sandwiches and salads.
• Umbrellas, Grand Anse Beach, +1 473 439-9149. Closed Mondays, Happy Hour 5-7PM. Overlooking the car park, great view! Great owner (Keith). Incredible catch sandwich. Large bathroom. Convenient fresh water shower right outside the restaurant. Friendly staff. Upstairs veranda with each table under its own umbrella.

Grenada produces many amazing products. Rum, chocolate, honey, jams and jellies, spices, clothing and art. Many of them are award-winning. Support the local economy when you are on the island and buy local products to take home.

Nutmeg is Grenada’s cash crop, so be sure to bring some home in one form or another – whole, jam, jelly, syrup, nutmed (medicinal ointment). You can also buy nutmeg-flavoured ice cream, which has an unusual taste that is hard to find elsewhere. Hurricane Ivan in September 2004 destroyed more than 90% of Grenada’s nutmeg crop, but fortunately you can now find plenty in the market, in town and in tourist shops. Other fine spices include mace, cinnamon, ginger, vanilla, turmeric, etc.

To bring herbs/spices into the USA (and many other countries), they must be kept in properly sealed containers. Most responsible sellers offer them packaged – check to be sure.

Real vanilla sells for a lot of money in the markets, sometimes as much as US$1 for a half-litre bottle. The concentration of the liquid varies, but in its pure form there is a noticeable (and very pleasant) difference from the vanilla extract that most North Americans are used to. You can also look for dried vanilla beans (in the pod)…. an essential ingredient in a whole range of herbs and kitchen spices.

Locally grown and produced chocolate is gaining a good reputation. Excellent bars of various cocoas can be found at the Co-op shop, the nearby Belmont Plantation, grocery shops and the cruise terminal.

Rum Grenada produces some of the best rums. You will understand what a “good” rum is when you taste the rum produced in Grenada, and you may even become a convert by sipping a “good rum”!

The chocolate from Granada is one of the best in the world. Dark chocolate, organic. Look out for the beautiful, colourful packaging.

The large cruise ship pier, located outside the main harbour, offers a small enclosed “duty free” shopping centre. There are several shops (and grocery shops) selling local items and items for cruise passengers. Prices for local products can be higher than in shops elsewhere on the island. A block away is the spice market with stalls run by families and farmers.

Although Grenada is a Caribbean island, Grenadians do not spend most of their time lying on the beach. They take their work very seriously and many jobs require specially tailored suits. Although there is still much to do, they are justifiably proud of the extensive repairs to the massive damage caused by Hurricane Ivan.

St George’s Town is a place of commerce with many banks, shops and government offices. Do not confuse it with the beach. It is often considered rude or disrespectful to walk around Grenada in inappropriate clothing, especially if you are dressed for the beach and are not (Grenada recently passed and is beginning to enforce an indecent exposure law that bans swimming costumes in non-beach areas, as well as sagging trousers that show underwear). Do not confuse casual attitudes with laziness, as Grenadians have a very formal and conservative approach to their lifestyle and workplace.

Although the French influence on Grenadian culture is much less visible than on other Caribbean islands, French family and place names remain, and everyday language is peppered with French words and the local dialect, or patois. A stronger French influence is found in the well-seasoned food and cooking styles similar to those of New Orleans, and some French architecture survives from the 1700s. The island’s culture is strongly influenced by the African roots of most Grenadians, but Indian and Caribbean influences are also visible in the cuisine with dhal puri, rotis, Indian sweets, cassava and curries.

Oildown” is considered the national dish. The name refers to a dish that is cooked in coconut milk until all the milk is absorbed, leaving a little coconut oil at the bottom of the pan. Early recipes call for a mixture of salted pig’s tail, pig’s feet (trotters), salted beef and chicken, flour dumplings and foods such as breadfruit, green banana, yam and potatoes. Callaloo leaves are sometimes used to hold the steam and add extra flavour.

Soca, calypso and reggae set the mood for Grenada’s annual carnival activities. Over the years, rap music has become famous among Grenadian youth and many young rappers have emerged in the island’s underground rap scene. Zouk is also slowly making its way to the island. The African and Caribbean Indian heritage of the islanders plays an influential role in many aspects of Grenadian culture.

As in other Caribbean islands, cricket is the most popular national sport and an integral part of Grenadian culture. The Grenada national cricket team is part of the Windward Islands cricket team in regional national cricket, but plays as a separate entity in smaller regional matches. It has also played Twenty20Cricket in the Stanford 20/20.

Grenada is a safe country and has the lowest crime rate in the Caribbean. The tropical sun and high humidity deserve your utmost respect. Take bottled water with you when you go out. The danger to pedestrians on pavements and narrow streets can be greater than the crime.

There is a general hospital in St. George, a smaller hospital in Mirabeau on the east coast and another in Carriacou. A small private hospital in St. Paul, clinics and doctors are available. Home visits can be made.

Drinking water is chlorinated in most places; if you have doubts about its safety or potability, ask the vendor or server.

Dialysis is now available on the island. A company called Island Health Services has opened the first dialysis unit. Fresenius has now been in operation for almost a year. If you depend on dialysis regularly, make sure in advance that the type(s) offered meet your needs.

Have fun, but use a condom! Local slogan – “Don’t be a fool, pack your tools!”