Cojín de Lechona Tolimense (Tolima, Colombia)

Soak the peas Put the rinsed peas in a large bowl and cover with at least twice their volume of cold water. Cover and refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight. Drain and discard the soaking water. The peas should look plumper but need not be soft yet.

Cook the peas until tender Transfer them to a large pot and add 2.5 L fresh water. Bring to a boil, skim any foam, then lower the heat and simmer gently for about 3 hours. Stir from time to time and add hot water if the peas are no longer covered. They are ready when soft throughout but still hold their shape. Drain thoroughly so the filling will not be wet.

Season the filling Warm a skillet over medium heat. Add up to 15 ml rendered pork fat and cook the scallions for 5–7 minutes, until softened but not browned. Stir in the salt, cumin and achiote. Add the seasoning to the drained peas and mix gently. Rub the pork pieces with some of the seasoned pea mixture so they are evenly coated. Keep the raw pork and its utensils separate from the cooked peas; wash hands and surfaces after handling it.

Fill and sew the skin Lay the pork skin with its outer skin side down on a clean work surface. Arrange half the peas over the centre, leaving a wide border. Lay the pork pieces lengthwise across the peas, then cover them with the remaining peas. Fold the skin around the filling to form a compact pillow. Bring the edges together and sew them securely with food-safe twine, closing gaps so the filling cannot spill. Tie the ends firmly. The package should sit seam-side down without leaning or opening.

Set up the oven Heat the oven to 177°C. Place the cojín seam-side down on a rack set over a sturdy roasting tray. The rack lets rendered fat drain away from the skin. Keep the tray away from the oven’s heating element and leave enough room for air to circulate around the roast.

Roast until the skin browns Roast uncovered for about 2 hours. Check periodically: the outer skin should become evenly browned, with some fat rendered into the tray. If one side colours much faster, rotate the tray. Spoon off excess rendered fat carefully, keeping your hands and face clear of hot splashes.

Cover and finish cooking When the skin is browned, lay clean banana or bijao leaves over the top of the roast. Return it to the oven for about 3 hours. Begin checking earlier if your cojín is smaller or flatter. Insert a clean food thermometer through the seam into the thickest pork piece at the centre; for this dense layered filling, use 71°C as a conservative serving target. If it has not reached that temperature, continue roasting and check again. Rest the roast for 15 minutes before cutting.

Slice and serve Transfer the cojín to a board with two wide spatulas. Cut it crosswise into five thick slices with a long, sharp knife. Serve hot, with insulso or arepas oreja’e perro alongside if desired.