Located along the historic Boulevard Ring, Literary Boulevard is a dedicated literary route winding 4.4 km through Moscow’s center. The promenade links Tverskoy and Nikitsky Boulevards with Patriarch’s Ponds and Old Arbat, guiding visitors past statuary and museums celebrating Pushkin, Gogol, Bulgakov, Tolstoy and other great Russians. Vivid ambience and quiet parks mark the path, inviting readers to imagine scenes from Dead Souls, Anna Karenina or The Master and Margarita unfolding on these streets.
In central Moscow, a leafy boulevard becomes a narrative spine connecting centuries of Russian letters. Here, grand monuments, writer’s apartments and evocative street corners stand as chapters in Russia’s literary story. A 4.4 km walking route – often called Literary Boulevard – ties together Pushkin Square, Tverskoy Boulevard, the Old Arbat, Patriarch’s Ponds and more. Unlike a mere sightseeing itinerary, this route foregrounds writers themselves: it passes the buildings where Pushkin courted his bride and Bulgakov conjured the devil, where Gogol burned manuscripts and Gorky dreamed socialist utopias.
Moscow’s reputation as Russia’s “literary capital” rests on this intimate geography. From the Golden Age (Pushkin, Gogol) through the Silver Age (Tsvetaeva, Mayakovsky) and Soviet eras (Bulgakov, Gorky), writers shaped, and were shaped by, these streets. Literary Boulevard turns each corner into a museum exhibit, with plaques and statues portraying beloved authors alongside scenes from their works. For the visitor, it promises not only the “must-see” sights, but a sense of discovery: tucked-away gravestones, plaques on humble tenements, the quiet courtyard where a statue hides.
Moscow’s Boulevard Ring itself was born in the wake of the 1812 fire that devastated the medieval city. The fire cleared the walls of the White City, and planners replaced them with tree-lined boulevards by 1823. The first of these was Tverskoy Boulevard, planted in 1796, soon emulated by Nikitsky, Strastnoy and others. Once ornamental promenades for nobles and musketeers, by the 19th century these boulevards had become stages for social and literary life alike.
In the Silver Age (late 19th–early 20th centuries), Moscow’s boulevards fostered a different literary bloom. Poets and novelists such as Mandelstam, Tsvetaeva and Pasternak frequented cafés in the Arbat and Patriarch’s Ponds area. Several now-famous Arbat apartments were studios for playwriting and poetry. By the Soviet era, many pre-Revolution buildings became communal flats; ironically these housed writers like Bulgakov, whose Master and Margarita opens at Patriarch’s Ponds.
Throughout, authority figures have alternately preserved and suppressed this legacy. Stalin admired Pushkin’s poetry but exiled some monuments (notably moving the original Pushkin statue in 1950). Later decades saw a renaissance: writers’ museums opened (Bulgakov’s in 2007, for example) and statues multiplied to reclaim vanished history. Today’s Literary Boulevard narrative is therefore layered: it is as much about Russia’s cultural memory as it is about literal geography.
The late 18th and early 19th centuries saw Moscow transform from a fortress-city into a cultural capital. After 1812, the cleared space became the boulevard belt we walk today. Tverskoy Boulevard (1796) led north from old Upper Trade Rows (Petrovka), linking estates and mansions. It was lined with tea houses and arcades where writers exchanged ideas – a living salon under the trees. By mid-century, Nikolai Gogol lived on Nikitsky Boulevard and immortalized Moscow’s bustle and decay in Dead Souls. The boulevard homes of Tolstoy, Leskov and others interlocked in this network of literary addresses.
Pushkin, often called the father of modern Russian literature, set a pattern that many later authors would follow: living, working and even marrying here. In 1831, Pushkin married Natasha Goncharova at the neighboring Ascension Church (now Pushkin Memorial Church), then honeymooned in an Arbat apartment on the boulevard. Dostoevsky, Chekhov and Nabokov wrote Moscow scenes that are still recognizable in streetscapes today. The city’s dual identity – imperial capital and cultural heart – is evident in its layers: Imperial theaters on Pushkinskaya, Orthodox cathedrals on Myasnitskaya, avant-garde art in Patriarch’s Ponds, all woven with writerly heritage.
The 1800s produced Moscow’s most celebrated authors. Gogol’s satirical Dead Souls toured localites on this very ring – for instance, he described the merchant carousal that took place in near-by Zhuravsky’s house on Nikitsky. Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina features ballroom promenades not far from Tverskoy. Pushkin himself lived at Bolshaya Nikitskaya 53 (now his memorial apartment) and married his bride just around the corner. Turgenev, after touring Europe, returned to find Moscow’s literary salons on the boulevard as lively as ever.
By the early 1900s, Moscow’s boulevards and environs had attracted poets of the Silver Age: Akhmatova, Gumilyov and Tsvetaeva among them. These writers often gathered in bohemian cafes and rented modest flats in the Old Arbat. Marina Tsvetaeva, for example, lived in a simple flat on Borisoglebsky Lane off the boulevard, now a small but poignant house-museum. The avant-garde scene intersected too: Mayakovsky staged Futurist poetry near Pushkin Square, and Pasternak wrote novels in a nearby Mayakovskaya apartment.
However, the turbulence of revolution and war meant mixed fortunes. Some authors thrived under Soviet patronage (like Gorky), others lived in fear or exile. By 1930s, parts of Moscow were erased or rebuilt – Patriarch’s Ponds was the site of student uprisings, and many elegant mansions became communal apartments (kominterny) hosting multiple writer-families. This complex history left a palimpsest: literary landmarks survived amid later concrete, and today’s tours must navigate layers of city-plan changes to find them.
Under Stalin, older monuments were sometimes removed (as noted, Pushkin’s statue was shifted in 1950). New ones were added: for instance, the sculptor Nikolai Andreev’s famed Gogol statue (initially unveiled 1909) was hidden in a courtyard until the 1950s. After the Soviet era, Moscow rediscovered its writers. The 1990s and 2000s saw a boom in museums: Bulgakov’s chaotic flat was memorialized (with his black cat, Behemoth, immortalized on the facade); Tsvetaeva’s modest Arbat flat opened to visitors; Pushkin’s apartment was carefully reconstructed. The Literary Boulevard’s current identity reflects these post-Soviet efforts to honor the past: monuments like Bulgakov’s Nikanor statue or a Gangnuss of Pushkin and his bride were unveiled alongside nostalgic memorials.
The Literary Boulevard walk can begin and end at multiple points, but one popular start is Pushkinskaya Square (metro Tverskaya/Pushkinskaya). From there, follow the Boulevard Ring counterclockwise (as mapped below) for roughly 4–5 hours of exploration, or break it into segments. The route can be done in parts (half-day to cover Arbat–Pond section, full-day to see it all). Key metro stops en route include Tverskaya, Chekhovskaya, Smolenskaya/Arbatskaya, Mayakovskaya and Barrikadnaya.
A good outline (with GPS waypoints for each major stop) might be: Pushkinskaya Square → Tverskoy Boulevard (Pushkin statue to Yesenin monument) → Nikitsky Boulevard (Gogol statue and House) → Bolshaya Nikitskaya (Gorky House) → Old Arbat (Pushkin & Goncharova, Okudzhava) → Smolenskaya (Pushkin’s flat) → Patriarch’s Ponds (Bulgakov sites) → (optional Soviet Modernist detour: Leninsky) → back toward boulevard terminus. Downloadable route maps and coordinates are in the Quick Reference section below.
Begin at Pushkinskaya Square (Pushkinskaya metro). The square’s centerpiece is Pushkin’s monument (55°45′56″N, 37°36′21″E). From here, step onto Tverskoy Boulevard heading west. The first stretch (about 1 km) passes under chestnut trees and by the old Moscow City Hall. Look right for the Yesenin statue on Tverskoy (on the north side near the Moscow Art Theater). Further along, the boulevard’s cafes once hosted Soviet writers – pass the historic cinema (formerly the Rossia) on your left.
Continue on Tverskoy into Nikitsky Boulevard. At the corner of Tverskaya and Bolshaya Nikitskaya, you will cross Nikitsky Gate – nearby stands the bronze group of Pushkin and his wife Natalya Goncharova (coords ~55.7590°N, 37.5952°E). Press on along Nikitsky; a few blocks west on your left is the Nikolai Gogol Monument courtyard (Nikitsky Blvd 7A) and the Gogol House Museum next door.
From Nikitsky, continue to Bolshaya Nikitskaya Street heading southwest. Almost immediately on the right (south side) is Maxim Gorky’s House (Malaya Nikitskaya 6), an Art Nouveau mansion with yellow facade – now the Gorky House museum. Keep going to reach the peaceful Old Arbat pedestrian street.
At the northern end of Old Arbat (near Smolenskaya metro), visit the Pushkin Memorial Apartment (53 Ulitsa Arbat) and the adjacent Pushkin & Goncharova statue. Continue south along Arbat: in Plotnikov Lane, you’ll find the Bulat Okudzhava Monument with its distinctive twin-arches (Ulitsa Arbat 53). Arbat (55°45′05″N, 37°35′49″E) is lined with historic buildings and cafes; soak in the bohemian atmosphere.
From Arbat’s southern end, head east on Vozdvizhenka and one block south to reach the Patriarch’s Ponds park (near Mayakovskaya metro, coordinates 55.7639°N 37.5922°E). The central feature is the pond itself, shored by a pavilion. Nearby stand memorial plaques and statues (Bulgakov and Krylov). From the ponds, one may double back the same way, or for an extended loop continue to Patriarshy Proyezd and Novinsky Boulevard to return to Tverskaya.
Metro: Pushkinskaya/Tverskaya/Chekhovskaya (lines 3, 2, 9).
What to See: The iconic bronze Alexander Pushkin statue by A. Opekushin (1880) anchors the square. Behind it rise the news-parade building and the old Petrovka Theatre (with gopher’s fountain), providing a striking backdrop.
From the square, note the boulevard ring turning left (north) into Tverskoy Boulevard. Historically, this square was Strastnaya, named for the Passion Monastery (razed 1930s). The statue itself was funded by Muscovites and sculpted for Pushkin’s centenary. Its inscription and location tie Pushkin to the city’s heart.
Tverskoy Boulevard (55°45′57″N, 37°36′21″E) is the first and grandest segment of the boulevard ring. Planted with linden and chestnut trees, it has been a fashionable promenade since Catherine the Great’s time. It was here that Arina Rodionovna allegedly told young Pushkin tales, and where Nobel laureate Ivan Bunin published a memoir of the boulevard ring’s 19th-century charm.
The boulevard is lined with upscale shops and hotels today, but historical markers abound. On the north side, near Tverskaya Street, is a small park with the Sergei Yesenin Statue. (Yesenin lived briefly in a Tverskoy communal flat; the statue was unveiled in 1995 to mark his centenary). Further along stands the old Literary Cafe, frequented by Soviet poets, now a restaurant. Toward the east end of Tverskoy (near Theatre Square), one finds the old Burnakov Mansion and other aristocratic homes.
In spring and summer, Tverskoy Boulevard fills with music and street performers. Note the melange of architectural styles along the route, from late-19th-century mansions to Soviet-era blocks.
Nikitsky Boulevard continues the ring, roughly parallel to the Garden Ring. It has preserved an air of pre-Revolutionary Moscow, with secret courtyards and stationary kiosks. Here one of Moscow’s most famous statues stands quietly in a gated yard.
Nikolai Gogol Monument (Nikitsky Blvd 7A): A memorable bronze by Nikolai Andreyev (1909) depicts the hunched, contemplative Gogol at the end of his life. When first unveiled, critics mocked its grim face; Stalin eventually moved it in 1952 to this quiet courtyard, preserving it out of view. Today it stands before Gogol House Museum, the writer’s former residence (Nikitsky Blvd 7A).
Gogol House Museum: The terracotta-front mansion is where Gogol wrote Dead Souls (second volume) and famously burned manuscripts before his death. The site is now a memorial museum and research library, preserving his desk, portraits and his personal library. Admission is often free; an on-site bookstore carries rare editions.
Continue along Nikitsky; on the right you will pass a quiet church niche with statues of Pushkin and Natalya Goncharova (Pushkin’s wife) (near the site of Pushkin’s 1831 wedding). A few blocks farther west, Nikitsky meets Bolshaya Nikitskaya.
Bolshaya (Greater) Nikitskaya Street takes you to the broader Arbat district. Immediately on the east side, just past Nikitsky Blvd, is Malaya Nikitskaya 6/2 – the Ryabushinsky Mansion (Maxim Gorky House). Built in 1902 by architect F. Schechtel, its ornate façade and murals stand out. From 1906–13, Maxim Gorky lived here with his wife, hosting luminaries like Tolstoy and Chekhov. Today it houses the Gorky Literary Institute and a small museum about Gorky’s life (check online for opening times).
At Malaya Nikitskaya & Arbat intersection (55°45′05″N, 37°35′49″E) begins the New Arbat. Turn right (west) onto the pedestrian Old Arbat Street. This cobbled street, once a merchant market road, has been a cultural symbol since the 1800s.
Old Arbat is lined with souvenir stalls, theaters and bygone-looking cafes. In the first block after Malaya Nikitskaya, note the Memorial Pushkin Apartment (Arbat 53) – a pastel-yellow building with a small plaque and a charming inner courtyard. Immediately opposite it is the bronze sculpture of Pushkin and Natalia Goncharova, commemorating their brief stay here after marriage. The statue shows a young Pushkin leading his bride to their wedding church on Ascension Lane.
Walk deeper into Arbat. Midway down, at Plotnikov Pereulok, stands the Bulat Okudzhava Monument. Crafted by sculptor G. Frangulyan, it depicts Okudzhava mid-stride with a newspaper under his arm and flanked by lyric verses. The arches behind him symbolize the Arbat’s “gates,” echoing lines from his songs about the street.
Best Photo Spot: The Okudzhava statue is photogenic at dawn or dusk when the arches catch side-light. Nearby cafés like Cafetoria or Obed Bufet offer tea and traditional fare, continuing the boulevard’s tradition of literary cafes (Okudzhava and his writer friends often played guitar in these very venues).
Patriarch’s Ponds is a tranquil enclave of water and greenery, just beyond the Garden Ring (metro Mayakovskaya/Pushkinskaya). The centerpiece is a single large pond, ringed by a park where 19th-century Moscow’s elite once ice-skated (a rink building stands at the west end). In Mikhail Bulgakov’s novel The Master and Margarita, this pond is the very spot where the devil first appears to Berlioz.
Patriarch’s Ponds, an urban oasis in Moscow. This aerial view shows the central pond area. The setting serves as the opening scene of Bulgakov’s Master and Margarita, and the statue of Bulgakov (behind the photographer) stands nearby.
Today the pond is decorated with fountains and benches. Around it are plaques quoting Master and Margarita and a couple of literary statues. On the south shore is a Bulgakov memorial plaque (in red granite) and further on, a Bronze statue of Bulgakov with a footstool (not to be confused with the more famous one on Nikitsky Street). Nearby stands a small statue of Ivan Krylov (fabulist), reflecting the spot’s cultural cachet.
Walking around the pond (clockwise from the fountain) takes you past Soviet apartment blocks where Bulgakov lived (Nos. 33–34). One block north is St. Alexander Church – the Grand Ascension Church – where Pushkin married Natalia in 1831 (that church was originally on the boulevard).
Moscow’s Literary Boulevard is studded with monuments, both to writers and to the characters they created. Below is an inventory of the principal statues you’ll encounter (listed in the order of the route). Each has its own backstory, sculptor and best angle for photos.
Moscow’s literary memorial museums are a treasure trove of artifacts: manuscripts, personal letters, childhood toys. Below is a practical directory to every writer’s house on or near Literary Boulevard, including address, hours and admission (as of early 2026). Hours can change, so check online or call ahead.
Museum | Location (Nearest Metro) | Hours (as of 2026) | Admission (adult) | Highlights |
A.S. Pushkin Memorial Apt. | Arbat 53 (Smolenskaya, Arbatskaya) | Wed, Fri–Sun 10:00–18:00 (Thu 13:00–21:00) | ~250 RUB | Re-created rooms, Pushkin’s desk, portrait of Goncharova |
M.A. Bulgakov Memorial Apt. | Bolshaya Sadovaya 10, entr. 6 (Mayakovskaya) | Tue–Wed 12:00–19:00, Thu 14:00–21:00, Fri–Sun 12:00–19:00 | ~360 RUB | Original apartment interior with fan graffiti and literary slogans |
Nikolai Gogol Memorial Apt. | Nikitsky Blvd 7A (Novinsky Blvd/Malakha district) | Wed–Sun 10:00–18:00 (Mon–Tue closed) (check 官网) | ~200 RUB | Gogol’s study, originals of Dead Souls, 1840s decor |
Marina Tsvetaeva Memorial Apt. | Borisoglebsky Per. 6 (Arbatskaya/Smolenskaya) | Wed–Sun 11:00–19:00, Tue 14:00–21:00 | ~700 RUB | Poet’s workspace, 45,000 exhibits; period furnishings |
Maxim Gorky House Museum | Malaya Nikitskaya 6/2 (Tverskaya/Pushkinskaya) | Wed–Sun 10:00–18:00; Mon–Tue closed | ~150 RUB | Gorky’s study & paintings by Chagall/Repin, Schechtel architecture |
V. Mayakovsky Memorial Apt. | Bolshaya Bronnaya 25 (Mayakovskaya) | Wed–Sun 10:00–18:00; Closed Mon–Tue | ~250 RUB | Original living room, July 1915 Moscow poems |
F.M. Dostoevsky Memorial Apt. | Kuznetsky Most 5 (Lubyanka) | Mon, Wed–Fri 11:00–19:00; Sat 12:00–20:00; Sun 11:00–17:00 | ~250 RUB | Dostoevsky’s bedroom, photographs, Karamazov manuscripts |
Literary Novelist’s Apt. (other) | e.g. Chekhov Apt. (on Taganka) etc. | See local sources |
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Alexander Pushkin spent his early childhood in Moscow, and this modest Arbat flat (mid-1830s) became a memorial to the married poet. After touring Europe, Pushkin returned here with Natalia in 1831. The apartment museum preserves the atmosphere: no original furniture remains, but curators have re-created the rooms from Vyazemsky’s memoirs. Visitors see Pushkin’s writing table, portraits of Goncharova, and a display of manuscript facsimiles.
A highlight is Pushkin’s first wife Natalia’s desk and portrait, a poignant reminder of their love story. The narrow hallway showcases romantic-era objets d’art (firebird shawls, Empire gazebos), illustrating Pushkin’s milieu. The adjoining courtyard (accessible from the church side) lets you imagine the wedding procession steps.
In 1920s-30s this apartment hosted Mikhail Bulgakov and his wife. It is preserved as though Bulgakov just stepped out: his old kitchen table still has the famed “Behemoth the cat” stuffed toy, and the walls bear faded slogans left by fans. The museum opened 2007 and is a pilgrimage site for Master and Margarita aficionados.
The flat is cramped, with exhibits in every corner: a music room with Bulagakov’s piano, a display of his first editions, and a recreation of the devilish red couch from the novel. The facade is painted with moving moustache echoes of Bulgakov’s fans.
This modest Baroque mansion is where Gogol lived his last years. It now houses a small memorial museum adjacent to a research library. The entrance on Nikitsky leads to a wood-paneled study room with Gogol’s writing desk and lantern. Original Deathbed portrait of Gogol hangs inside. The museum narrative emphasizes the story of Dead Souls – the fireplace is marked, and busts of Chichikov and Petrushka flank the room to remind visitors of Gogol’s characters.
Nearby in the foyer is the legend of the 1842 manuscript burning incident: Gogol reportedly burned the second volume of Dead Souls here. The curator often recites Gogol’s own elegy.
Marina Tsvetaeva lived here from 1914 until 1923. The tiny flat on Borisoglebsky Lane (between Smolenskaya and Arbatskaya metro) became a house museum in 1990. Though modest, it contains 45,000 items: letters, manuscripts, photos of Tsvetaeva and husband Sergei Efron. The living room has the poet’s desk; a display case holds an original notebook with her handwritten poems.
There are occasional sound walks when an actor reads Tsvetaeva in the courtyard. The exhibits emphasize her Moscow life and tragic return from exile.
Once the luxurious Ryabushinsky Mansion, this house contains Gorky’s study and heirlooms. The yellow Art Nouveau exterior and stained glass “P” logo are photogenic. Inside, tours explain Gorky’s revolutionary departure from this Socialist salon in 1913. Exhibit highlights include Chagall’s “Anna on a Red Pillow” portrait of Gorky and the giant writing desk he used. The garden has an Inscription: Gorky’s words from Mother, chalked on brick (accessible via the back courtyard).
Along Literary Boulevard, one walks in the footsteps of literary giants. Brief profiles below provide context on the authors most intimately tied to these sites. Each writer’s name will appear on plaques or signs; understanding their Moscow story enriches the visit.
Pushkin (1799–1837) is celebrated as the founder of modern Russian literature. Though born in St. Petersburg, much of Pushkin’s formative life and legacy is here in Moscow. He lived in this Arbat apartment (53 Ul. Arbat) during 1830–31, “newly wed and in love” with Natalia Goncharova. Pushkin wrote little here, but the apartment symbolizes his domestic happiness.
He wrote a letter from Moscow to a friend, “how sweet to sit on a bench under spring branches and listen to Natalia singing.” Indeed, Pushkin’s own poem “To Autumn” was penned in the nearby countryside. In literature, he portrayed Moscow with wit (as in The Captain’s Daughter) and nostalgia.
Moscow Connection: Legendary episodes in Pushkin’s life occurred on these streets: his duel fable Story of the Petty Colonel references local nobility; he visited the Arbat church for weddings; his friends Turgenev and Zhukovsky hosted salons on Nikitsky. The boulevard’s Pulasti fountain was a favorite walking spot, and its water was said to inspire Ruslan and Ludmila.
Nikolai Gogol (1809–1852) found Moscow both muse and refuge. Born in Ukraine, Gogol spent most of his adult life in St. Petersburg, but his final years were here on Nikitsky Boulevard. Gogol chose Moscow for its milder winter than Petersburg’s. The Gogol House museum preserves the room where he worked feverishly on Dead Souls.
Gogol’s works often caricature Muscovites: the social climbing of The Government Inspector was inspired by an event in Moscow civic government (the Alexandrovsky Passage incident), and the senseless bureaucracy in Dead Souls targets Petersburg’s registry offices but with settings reminiscent of Moscow inns. The weight of the city’s carousing party life appears in his late stories (The Evening At Reyn’s Inn).
Statue: Gogol’s Dostoevsky-described “haunted eyes” look back from Nikitsky Boulevard’s courtyard statue. While alive, Gogol did not fully receive Moscow’s acclaim; after his death at age 42 he was buried here in Nevyansk. The tale of him burning manuscripts in this house is part of local lore.
Mikhail Bulgakov (1891–1940) bridged Soviet reality and fantastic comedy. His most famous novel, The Master and Margarita, is set against the backdrop of the 1930s Stalinist terror. Patriarch’s Ponds is literally its first scene, immortalizing that corner of Moscow.
Bulgakov lived and worked in this district – first at Tverskoy (Tverskaya 9) and later at Bolshaya Sadovaya 10 (the current museum). He struggled under censorship: Stalin’s cultural commissars banned his plays, and he famously burned an initial version of Martyr Zoya in anger. Yet he pushed boundaries by setting the devil (Woland) in a Satirical Theater on Pushkin Square in his novel.
Moscow in M&M: Bulgakov placed Russian writers like Vladimir Mayakovsky and MIriam (and satirical portraits of literary Soviet luminaries) into M&M, tying fictional events to real streets. Today, plaques on Patriarch’s Pond mark scenes: the tram inscription “Don’t talk to strangers” can still be found on the water tower.
Marina Tsvetaeva (1892–1941), a silver-age poetess, lived in Moscow off-and-on from childhood until the Revolution. She lived in the Borisoglebsky flat on Borisoglebsky Lane (the house museum) from 1914–23. She wrote passionate poems here celebrating Moscow’s intimate corners, but later left for Prague and Berlin.
Tsvetaeva’s verses depict Moscow’s tram jingles and Boulevard nights; one poem, “The Last Part of Our Way,” mourns Moskkva’s end of summer. Returning in 1939, she found the city and literary life very changed, and tragically took her life in 1941. The museum includes her manuscripts and a haunting recording of her voice.
Literary Note: Tsvetaeva was friends with Rainer Maria Rilke and translated Anna Karenina into French. She famously wrote, “Moscow is the city that isn’t Moscow”, hinting at its soul-deep presence in her poetry.
Each stop on the boulevard has a plaque bearing the writer’s name and lifespan, and often a quotation. Reading those on-site bridges the gap between history and street.
Literary Note: Moscow’s literary figures often took the very route we do. When Bulgakov’s Woland meets Berlioz, he quotes Pushkin’s epitaph (“I loved you”). Viktor Zhirmunsky observed that Moscow’s boulevards are “lunar landscapes” in Russia’s literary memory – beautiful yet filled with shadows of past poets.
One of Literary Boulevard’s delights is locating real places that inspired or appear in literature. Below are key examples where readers can relive famous scenes.
Tour guides often point out the taxis and trams at Patriarch’s that appear in novels: Master and Margarita’s famed satanic taxi driver (St. Petersburg chapter) is echoed by the taxi queue you see just north of the ponds. Also, the 1930s tram tracks that briefly circled the pond (for M&M’s sake) can still be glimpsed near the embankment.
Itineraries:
After long walks among books and statues, one will want to savor Moscow’s cuisine with a literary twist. Many eateries around Literary Boulevard carry historic or cultural resonance. Here are selected spots by location:
Around Pushkinskaya Square:
Tverskoy Boulevard:
Old Arbat:
Near Patriarch’s Ponds:
Budget Options:
All prices in these areas tend to be mid-range; tipping ~10% is customary. No need to speak Russian – menus often have English or picture menus in tourist zones. Breakfast cafes on Arbat (like “Coffee Bean” or “Skuratov”) are good for starting the day with literature-themed teas or “Bronze Horseman” latte art.
If Literary Boulevard whets your appetite for more literary heritage, these extensions will further immerse you in Russia’s bookish past:
To deepen your experience, consider these literary works and guides. They reveal Moscow from the inside out:
Recommended Editions: For authors like Bulgakov or Pushkin, use the high-quality translations with notes (e.g. Pevear/Volokhonsky for Dead Souls, Rosamund Bartlett for M&M). Copy editors of travel guides also point to “The Moscow Trilogy” by Vassily Aksyonov for a 20th-century take (not directly about Literature Boulevard but rich in city atmosphere).
Q: What is Literary Boulevard in Moscow?
A: Literary Boulevard is a loosely defined 4.4 km walking route through Moscow’s Boulevard Ring, connecting Tverskoy Boulevard, Nikitsky Boulevard, the Old Arbat, Patriarch’s Ponds and other sites linked to Russia’s literary heritage. It features 15+ monuments and writers’ house museums (Pushkin, Gogol, Bulgakov, etc.) and celebrates Moscow’s role as a literary capital.
Q: How long is Literary Boulevard and how much time is needed to walk it?
A: The full route is about 4.4 km (2.7 miles). A brisk walk takes ~2–3 hours, but with museum stops you’ll need a full day or two. Plan for at least 5–6 hours to see major sites at a relaxed pace.
Q: Where does Literary Boulevard start and end?
A: It is a loop, but common starting point is Pushkinskaya Square (Pushkin statue, metro Tverskaya). From there you go NW on Tverskoy Blvd, then to Nikitsky Blvd, then Bolshaya Nikitskaya, then Arbat Street, ending at Patriarch’s Ponds. You can also loop back or take the metro from Patriarch’s (Mayakovskaya) or return along the same route.
Q: What monuments and statues are on Literary Boulevard?
A: Key literary monuments include: the statue of Alexander Pushkin at Pushkinskaya Square (unveiled 1880); Pushkin & Goncharova on Arbat (1999); Nikolai Gogol at Gogol House (moved to Nikitsky Blvd yard); Sergei Yesenin on Tverskoy (1995); Bulat Okudzhava on Arbat (2002); and others to Chekhov, Tsvetaeva, etc. See Section 3 above for details.
Q: What literary house museums are along the route?
A: Significant ones: Pushkin Memorial Apartment (Arbat 53); Bulgakov Museum (Bolshaya Sadovaya 10); Gogol House (Nikitsky Blvd 7A); Marina Tsvetaeva House (Borisoglebsky Per. 6); Maxim Gorky House (Malaya Nikitskaya 6); plus Mayakovsky’s flat and Dostoevsky’s Moscow apt in Kuznetsky Most. Section 4 has the full directory with hours.
Q: What is at Patriarch’s Ponds and why is it on Literary Boulevard?
A: Patriarch’s Ponds is a small park with a pond in Presnensky District, famous as the opening setting of Bulgakov’s The Master and Margarita. Monuments to Bulgakov and fabulist Ivan Krylov stand nearby. Though a bit off the circular boulevard ring, it’s conventionally included for its strong literary connection and is reachable by a short walk from Arbatskaya/Mayakovskaya.
Q: Is Literary Boulevard safe to walk at night?
A: Yes, the area is generally very safe. Arbat is pedestrianized and lively into the evening. Standard caution (stay in well-lit areas) is recommended. Few attractions are open after dark, though the Pushkin statue and Arbat’s neon come alive. Night tours occasionally run (e.g. “Literary Ghost Walk”), but these are novelty.
Q: Do I need to speak Russian to enjoy Literary Boulevard?
A: Basic English suffices. Major museums have some English descriptions or guides. Many plaques at monuments are multilingual (Pushkin Sq statue has English). For best experience, know a few greetings or carry a translation app for menus. Many younger people and officials in tourist areas speak some English.
Q: Can I get a guided literary tour in Moscow?
A: Yes. Several companies (including local university-guided tours) offer Literary Boulevard themed walks. You can also hire private guides through platforms like Airbnb Experiences. Free “city walk” groups often include a literary route. Verify credentials, as guides should have a solid knowledge of literature and Moscow history.
Q: What books should I read before visiting?
A: Top recommendations: The Master and Margarita (Bulgakov) – read the first part set in Patriarch’s Ponds, and maybe Vol. 2 set in Moscow. Eugene Onegin (Pushkin) and Dead Souls (Gogol) for atmosphere, and any Pushkin poems about Moscow. Contemporary Moscow: The City of Literature guides (English) give good context. Section 10 above lists more.
