Bún mắm (Mekong Delta fermented-fish noodle soup)

Bring the 2 L water to a boil in a large pot. Add the pork belly, return to a gentle simmer and cook partly covered until tender, about 35–40 minutes. Skim as needed. Transfer the pork to a clean plate, keep the cooking liquid and let the pork cool enough to slice safely. Refrigerate it if it will not be used promptly.

In a separate saucepan, combine the fermented fish paste with 700 ml water. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 10–12 minutes, stirring to loosen the paste. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into the pork broth. Press gently to extract the liquid, then discard the solids. This removes coarse pieces and bones.

Rinse the dried shrimp and add it to the broth with the bruised lemongrass and pineapple. Simmer for 15 minutes. Remove the lemongrass and pineapple pieces if desired. Stir in the sugar and taste before adding any salt, since fermented paste varies greatly in saltiness.

Heat the oil in a small pan. Sauté the shallots and garlic until fragrant and lightly golden; add them to the broth with the optional chili. Add the eggplant and simmer for 8–10 minutes until tender but still holding its shape. Keep the broth at a gentle simmer.

Prepare the fresh bún according to package directions, or briefly loosen it in hot water if needed. Drain well and divide among four large bowls. Slice the cooked pork belly and arrange it over the noodles.

Keep the raw shrimp and squid chilled until just before cooking. Add the shrimp to the simmering broth and cook until opaque and firm, usually 2–3 minutes depending on size. Add the sliced squid and simmer just until opaque and cooked through, about 1–2 minutes. Avoid prolonged cooking, which makes squid tough. Use clean utensils and keep raw seafood juices away from garnishes.

Divide the cooked seafood and eggplant among the bowls. Ladle the boiling-hot broth over the noodles and toppings. Serve the bean sprouts, water spinach, optional banana blossom, ngò om, rau răm, mint, lime and sliced chili alongside. Diners add the fresh greens to taste.

Serve immediately. Refrigerate leftover broth and toppings promptly in shallow covered containers within 2 hours, at or below 4°C; store noodles separately. Use within 3 days and reheat leftovers once to 74°C throughout. Do not leave raw seafood or cut garnishes at room temperature.