Bún nước lèo (Sóc Trăng clear fish and fermented-fish noodle soup)

Rinse the pork bones. Bring a pot of water to a boil, blanch the bones for 5 minutes, then drain and rinse them. Put the blanched bones in a clean large stockpot with 3 L fresh water, halved shallots, bruised lemongrass and fingerroot if using. Bring to a boil, lower to a gentle simmer and cook partly covered for 2 hours, skimming as needed.

In a separate saucepan, combine the fermented fish paste with 500 ml water. Simmer gently for 10–12 minutes, stirring to loosen it. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into the stock; press gently to extract the liquid, then discard the bones and solids. This produces a clearer, smoother broth.

Rinse the dried shrimp and add them to the stock. Simmer for 15 minutes. Taste the broth before seasoning because fermented fish paste varies in saltiness. Stir in the measured sugar and add salt only if needed, a little at a time. Keep the broth at a gentle simmer.

Add the snakehead fish to the broth and poach gently until opaque and it flakes easily, about 8–12 minutes depending on thickness. Check the thickest piece with a clean thermometer and cook to at least 63°C. Lift the fish out with a slotted spoon, remove any bones and keep the flesh covered and hot.

Heat the oil in a small pan. Sauté the minced garlic until fragrant and pale gold; stir it into the broth. Strain the broth once more if you want a particularly clear bowl, then return it to a gentle simmer.

Prepare the fresh bún according to package directions, or loosen it briefly in hot water if needed. Drain well and divide among four large bowls. Add the cooked snakehead fish and sliced roasted pork. Keep raw shrimp chilled until cooking; add it to the simmering broth and cook until opaque and firm, usually 2–3 minutes, then divide it among the bowls.

Ladle the boiling-hot broth over the shrimp and bowl ingredients. Serve banana blossom, bean sprouts, water spinach, lettuce, Thai basil, rau răm, chives, lime and optional chili alongside. Blanch sprouts unless they are sold ready to eat; diners can add the greens and lime to taste.

Serve immediately. Refrigerate leftover broth and toppings in shallow covered containers within 2 hours at or below 4°C; store noodles separately. Use within 3 days and reheat leftovers once to 74°C throughout.