Bánh canh cua (Southern Vietnamese crab noodle soup)
Bánh canh cua is a Southern Vietnamese noodle soup built around the chew of thick rice or tapioca noodles and a fuller broth than many noodle soups. Toppings and broth thickness vary from one cook and town to another. This home version keeps the crab in front, with pork-bone stock, shrimp, mushrooms and quail eggs; it does not use coconut milk or pork blood, both of which appear in other regional bowls.
The stock simmers slowly while the crab topping is warmed with shallot, garlic and annatto oil. Cook the noodles separately so their starch does not turn the whole pot gummy, then thicken the broth gradually with tapioca slurry. Stop as soon as it lightly coats a spoon: the bowl should be glossy and substantial, not paste-like.


