Bánh bèo Huế (Vietnamese steamed rice cakes)

Whisk rice flour, tapioca starch and salt in a bowl. Gradually whisk in water and 10 ml oil until smooth. Cover and rest for 40 minutes. Whisk again before the first batch and before each later batch because the starch settles.

Stir fish sauce, warm water, sugar and lime juice until the sugar dissolves. Mix in garlic and optional chilli; set the nước chấm aside.

Arrange shrimp in one layer in a steamer and cook until opaque and the thickest shrimp reaches 63°C on a clean thermometer. Cool just enough to handle, then pulse or pound to coarse, fluffy shreds. Dry-toast in a clean pan over medium-low heat for 3–5 minutes, stirring, until fluffy and no longer wet; avoid deep browning.

Put scallions in a heatproof bowl with a pinch of salt. Heat 30 ml oil until shimmering but not smoking, pour it over the scallions and stir. Keep the pork cracklings dry; crush them shortly before serving.

Bring the steamer water to a steady boil. Lightly oil 6–7 cm heatproof saucers, set a batch in the steamer and preheat the empty saucers for 2 minutes. Stir the batter, pour a thin 5–7 mm layer into each saucer, cover with a towel-wrapped lid and steam for about 4 minutes, until set and slightly translucent with a shallow dimple. Check the first batch and adjust for saucer size; repeat in batches.

Let the cakes cool briefly so they release cleanly, or serve them in the saucers. Top with shrimp floss, scallion oil and pork cracklings. Serve with nước chấm for drizzling.