Norman-style canard au cidre with apples and cream
Canard au cidre is at its best as a braise rather than a quick pan sauce. Duck legs bring enough connective tissue to benefit from slow moist cooking, while dry cider supplies fruit, acidity and gentle bitterness. Apples and cream reinforce the Norman character, but they are handled separately so the sauce remains clean and the fruit does not collapse into purée.
Start the legs skin-side down in a cold heavy casserole and bring the heat up gradually. This renders a surprising amount of fat before the skin takes on colour. Pour off the excess and keep only a thin film for the shallots, garlic and thyme. Once the cider and stock go in, the braise should barely simmer under a lid. The meat is both tender and safe when the thickest part of each leg reaches at least 74 °C.
Firm tart apples are browned in butter in a separate skillet and rejoin the dish only at the end. After the cooked duck comes out, skim the braising liquid and reduce it before adding cream. The finished sauce should coat a spoon lightly; a hard boil after adding cream makes separation more likely. The cider remains an alcoholic ingredient even after a long braise, and the specified bottled cider also carries a sulphite declaration.


