Rouille de seiche — Sétois cuttlefish in tomato, wine and aïoli
Rouille de seiche from the Sète and Hérault coast is a cuttlefish dish, not the orange garlic condiment served alongside bouillabaisse. Its colour comes from tomato concentrate cooked into the pan and from the long, reduced sauce around the seafood. White wine, onion, garlic, thyme and a little chilli build the savoury base; an aïoli made with pasteurised egg yolk is stirred in off the heat at the end, turning the sauce glossy and rounded without obscuring the cuttlefish.
Cuttlefish rewards a deliberate cooking curve. The pieces first go into a hot pan long enough to release and evaporate excess moisture. Onion and garlic are then softened, tomato concentrate is fried briefly to remove rawness, and white wine is reduced before water and herbs are added. The seafood must pass 63 °C for safety, but tenderness requires more than merely reaching that temperature. A low simmer of about 35 minutes gives the connective tissue time to relax; a short, hesitant cook can leave the cuttlefish rubbery.
The aïoli is made separately from pasteurised yolk, garlic, olive oil and lemon. It is never boiled into the sauce. Once the cuttlefish is tender, the pan comes off the heat and the aïoli is stirred in only long enough to bind the cooking liquid. That preserves the emulsion and keeps the garlic fresh rather than harsh. The wine contributes sulphites and the cuttlefish is a mollusc allergen; the pasteurised yolk adds egg. Keep the seafood chilled before cooking and refrigerate leftovers promptly.


