Tamales de Pipián from Popayán: Cauca Potato and Peanut Tamales

Cook and mash the potatoes Put the potatoes in a saucepan and cover them with water. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 15–20 minutes, until a knife slides through the largest potato without resistance. Drain well. When cool enough to handle, peel if the skins are thick, then mash coarsely. Leave some small pieces for texture rather than making a perfectly smooth purée.

Make the hogao base Warm the oil in a heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Add the scallions and cook for 4–5 minutes until soft. Stir in the tomatoes and garlic and cook for 8–10 minutes, stirring often, until the tomato has collapsed and most of its watery liquid has evaporated. Add the achiote and cumin and stir for 30 seconds. Keep the heat moderate so the garlic does not brown.

Finish the pipián Grind the peanuts finely, stopping while they still have a little texture. Stir them into the hogao with the mashed potatoes and 6 g of the salt. Add the water or stock a little at a time, just until the mixture becomes a cohesive, spoonable paste; it should not run. Simmer gently for 5–8 minutes, stirring from the bottom. Taste and add some or all of the remaining 4 g salt. Spread the pipián in a shallow clean dish to cool until warm. If it will sit for more than 2 hours, refrigerate it and bring it out only when you are ready to assemble.

Mix and rest the masa Combine the masa harina and 8 g salt in a large bowl. Stir in the melted lard, then gradually add warm water, mixing by hand until the dough is soft, smooth and pliable without sticking heavily to your fingers. Depending on the flour, you may not need all 780 ml. Cover and rest for 20 minutes. After resting, knead briefly; if the dough has firmed or cracked, work in a little warm water.

Soften the leaves and shape the tamales Wipe the banana leaves clean. Warm them briefly over a low flame or in a hot dry skillet until they bend without splitting; do not char them. Lay each large panel over a small reinforcing piece. Divide the dough into 12 equal portions. Flatten one portion into a small oval about 8 mm thick on the leaf. Spoon a portion of pipián into the middle, leaving a border. Fold the dough around the filling, then fold the leaves into a compact parcel and tie with twine. Repeat, keeping the parcels covered so the leaves stay supple.

Steam until the centres are hot throughout Pour about 2.5 L water into the steamer, keeping it below the rack. Bring to a steady simmer. Arrange the tamales seam-side up with a little space between them, cover tightly and steam for about 60 minutes. Check the water partway through and top up with boiling water if needed. Use a clean thermometer to test the centre of more than one parcel; each must reach at least 73.9°C. If one is cooler, rewrap it and continue steaming before checking again.

Rest and serve Turn off the heat and leave the tamales covered for 10 minutes. Lift them out carefully and serve warm in their leaves. Let each person open a parcel at the table so the steam escapes away from the hands. The pipián should hold its shape but feel soft and creamy inside the masa.