Hornado nariñense

Dry and score the skin Pat the pork skin very dry. With a sharp knife, score it in a crosshatch about 2 cm apart, cutting through the skin and fat but not into the meat. If possible, loosen one edge of the skin so the adobo can reach the meat underneath. Keep the pork chilled while you prepare the seasoning.

Blend and apply the adobo Blend the onions, garlic, cumin, achiote, pepper, 13 g of the salt, oil and 60 ml water into a thick paste. Rub it over the meat and beneath the loosened skin, keeping the outside of the skin as clean as possible. Pat the skin dry again and rub the remaining 5 g salt over it. Set the pork on a rack over a tray and refrigerate uncovered for at least 12 hours, and up to 18 hours.

Set up the oven Take the pork from the refrigerator while the oven heats to 150°C. Place a rack in a roasting pan and set the pork skin-side up. Pour 190 ml water into the pan beneath the rack; do not pour it over the pork. The water helps catch drippings and reduces scorching. Keep the skin exposed and dry.

Roast slowly until tender Roast for about 4–5 hours, checking the pan occasionally and adding a little water if it dries completely. Start checking the meat at 4 hours. Insert the thermometer into the thickest meat in several places without touching bone. For tender shoulder, continue until the meat reaches about 90–95°C and a fork turns easily. The pork must reach at least 63°C and rest 3 minutes for food safety; the higher target is for tenderness. If the meat is ready before the skin crackles, keep it warm while you finish the skin.

Blister the skin and rest the pork Raise the oven to 230°C and roast for another 20–30 minutes, watching closely, until the skin bubbles and turns crisp. If one area darkens too quickly, shield it loosely with foil without covering the whole skin. Transfer the pork to a clean board and rest for 30 minutes before carving or pulling. Do not reuse the raw-pork tray for cooked meat.

Cook the potatoes and warm the mote While the pork rests, bring 1.5 litres water to a boil in a saucepan. Add the potatoes and simmer for 20–25 minutes, until a knife slips into the center. Drain. Warm the cooked mote in a separate saucepan with a splash of the potato water until steaming, then drain. Keep both sides hot.

Toss the salad and serve Combine the lettuce, tomatoes, red onion and cilantro in a bowl. Squeeze over the juice of 2 limes, add 15 ml oil and 2 g salt, and toss just before serving. Carve the pork or pull it into large pieces and serve with the potatoes, mote and salad. Offer Nariño ají separately if you have it. Refrigerate leftovers within 2 hours and reheat to 74°C until hot throughout.