Tamales nariñenses

Marinate the pork and beef Pat the pork ribs, pork shoulder and beef dry. Blend half the red onion, 2 scallions, 4 garlic cloves, cumin, black pepper, 8 g salt and the juice and finely grated zest of the lemon into a coarse adobo. Rub it over the pork and beef, cover and refrigerate for 12–18 hours. Keep the chicken covered and chilled separately; do not leave raw meat at room temperature.

Prepare the egg and vegetables Hard-cook the eggs, then cool them promptly and refrigerate until needed. Slice the potatoes and carrots. Par-cook them separately in simmering water until just tender but still holding their shape; drain, cool promptly and refrigerate. Keep cooked foods covered and away from raw meat and its utensils.

Cook the meats safely Put the beef and pork ribs in a large pot and add enough water to cover. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until tender, checking with a clean thermometer: whole beef and pork cuts must reach at least 63°C and rest for 3 minutes. Add the pork shoulder and continue until tender. Cook the chicken thighs in the same broth until they reach 74°C. Remove the ribs, discard the bones, and cut the meats into bite-size pieces. Strain and reserve the broth; cool the filling promptly.

Make the guiso Heat the oil in a saucepan. Add the remaining red onion, scallions and garlic with the diced tomato and red pepper. Cook until collapsed and thick, stirring often. Add the bay leaves, thyme, oregano, mint, cilantro, remaining 10 g salt and cooked chickpeas. Stir in a little reserved broth to make a moist but spoonable guiso. Simmer until the vegetables are soft, remove the bay leaves, then cool promptly. Fold in the chopped meat and cooked pork skin.

Cook and season the masa Strain enough reserved broth to moisten the masa without making it runny. Put the masa in a heavy pot and gradually stir in broth until it is smooth and spreadable. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a sturdy spoon, until very thick and steaming. If it becomes too stiff to spread, loosen it with a little more hot broth. Keep the cooked masa warm for assembly, or cool it promptly if assembling later.

Soften the leaves and assemble Wash the achira leaves on both sides. Dip them in boiling water for about 2 minutes until pliable, then dry them completely. Use 2 leaves per tamal, overlapping them to make a leak-resistant base. Spread about one-eighth of the masa in the center; add one-eighth of the meat-and-guiso filling, a slice of potato, carrot and hard-cooked egg. Fold the leaves into a tight rectangular parcel without tearing them, patching with an extra piece if needed. Tie securely with one length of twine. Keep unassembled ingredients refrigerated and work in small batches.

Steam until hot through Arrange the tamales seam-side up on a rack above gently simmering water. Cover tightly and steam for about 90 minutes, adding hot water as needed so the pot does not boil dry. Insert a clean thermometer through a fold in the wrapper into the center of the largest tamal; it must reach 74°C. If not, continue steaming and check again. Rest the tamales for 10 minutes before opening. Refrigerate leftovers within 2 hours and reheat to 74°C.