Xôi miền Bắc

Rinse the rice until the water is nearly clear. Cover it with 1.5 litres cold water and soak in the refrigerator for 8 hours. Drain very well and discard the soaking water.

Stir together the soy sauce, hoisin, honey, brown sugar, garlic, five-spice and 2 g black pepper. Coat the pork, cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours. The rice can soak during the same period.

Heat the oven to 190°C / 375°F. Warm the canola oil in an oven-safe pan over medium heat and brown the pork on all sides. Add 150 ml water, cover the pan loosely with a lid or foil and roast for 70–85 minutes, basting with the pan juices about every 20 minutes. Check the thickest part with a food thermometer: this recipe targets at least 71°C / 160°F. Rest the pork for 10 minutes before slicing across the grain.

While the pork roasts, bring 1.5 litres water in the steamer reservoir to a steady boil. Spread the drained rice in a cloth-lined basket above the water and steam for 25–30 minutes.

Transfer the partly steamed rice to a bowl. Sprinkle 75 ml water evenly over it and gently loosen the grains with a fork or chopsticks.

Return the rice to the basket and steam for a second time for 15–20 minutes, until glossy, tender and sticky but still distinct, with no hard centers. Keep it hot at or above 60°C / 140°F if it will not be served immediately.

Steam the lạp xưởng in a heatproof dish for 10–15 minutes, or prepare it exactly as the package directs. If it is raw or uncooked, check that the center reaches 71°C / 160°F. If it is labeled fully cooked, heat it as directed until steaming hot. Slice it on a clean board.

Strain the pork pan juices into a small saucepan and skim excess fat if you like. You want about 180 ml liquid; add up to 100 ml hot water if the pan yielded less. Simmer for 2–3 minutes. Whisk the tapioca starch with 30 ml cold water, stir it into the pan juices and simmer for 1–2 minutes until glossy and lightly thickened. Stir in the remaining 1 g pepper; the sauce should still pour easily.

Divide the hot rice among four bowls. Add sliced pork and sausage, then spoon the pepper sauce over the top. For this Nam Định expression, serve without fried shallots or pickles.

Refrigerate leftovers in shallow containers within 2 hours, or within 1 hour when the room is above 32°C / 90°F. Keep at or below 4°C / 40°F, use within 3 days and reheat to 74°C / 165°F.