Hủ tiếu Nam Vang Sài Gòn

Blanch the bones. Keep the pork, liver and shrimp refrigerated at or below 4°C until needed. Bring 2 L water to a boil, add the bones and boil for 5 minutes. Drain; rinse the bones and pot, then discard the blanching water.

Simmer the broth. Put the bones in the clean stockpot with 3 L fresh water, dried shrimp, dried squid, onion, ginger and shallots. Bring just to a boil, lower the heat and simmer gently for 90 minutes, skimming foam. Add the daikon for the final 30 minutes and remove it when tender. Stir in 20 ml fish sauce, sugar and salt; taste. Strain if you prefer a very clear broth.

Cook the eggs and liver. During the simmer, cover the quail eggs with water, bring to a boil and cook for 4 minutes. Cool in cold water, peel and halve. In a separate saucepan, gently simmer the liver until a clean thermometer reads 71°C at its centre. Rest for 3 minutes, then slice. Keep it away from the raw-liver board and utensils.

Poach and slice the pork. During the broth’s final 20–25 minutes, poach the whole tenderloin in gently simmering broth. Check the thickest centre with a clean thermometer; remove at 63°C and rest for at least 3 minutes. Return it to the broth if it needs more time, then slice thinly.

Cook the minced pork. Heat 10 ml oil in a skillet. Add the minced shallot and ground pork, breaking the meat into small pieces. Stir-fry until no pink remains and several pieces reach 71°C at the centre. Season with 5 ml fish sauce and pepper; transfer to a clean dish.

Fry the garlic. Heat 35 ml oil over medium-low heat. Stir the sliced garlic for 2–3 minutes until pale gold. Transfer it promptly to a paper-lined plate and reserve the fragrant oil.

Cook the shrimp and noodles. Simmer the shrimp in a small pot of broth or water for 2–4 minutes, until opaque and firm; check a thick shrimp for 63°C. Cook the noodles according to the package until just tender and chewy, then drain.

Assemble. Divide noodles among four warmed bowls. Add sliced pork, ground pork, liver, shrimp and quail eggs. Top with sprouts, lettuce, garlic chives and scallions. Ladle in very hot broth and finish with fried garlic and a little garlic oil. Serve lime and optional chili at the table.