Bocachico ahumado y sudado — Chocó Smoked and Stewed Bocachico

Clean and season the fish Keep the fish at or below 4°C until you are ready to work. On a board reserved for raw fish, remove the scales, gills and entrails, then rinse the cavity and pat the fish dry. Mix 45 ml lemon juice with the garlic and 3 g salt. Rub the mixture over the fish and inside the cavity. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes; do not marinate at room temperature. Wash your hands and clean the board, knife and sink after handling raw fish.

Prepare the smoker Set up a covered outdoor grill or smoker for indirect heat. Use food-grade hardwood that is untreated, unpainted and free of resinous softwood. Establish a steady bed of coals with no flame touching the fish. Follow the smoker’s fire-safety directions and keep the cooking grate away from direct heat.

Smoke the bocachico Place the fish on the grate, close the lid and smoke until it is aromatic and lightly bronzed, turning once if needed. The time depends on its thickness and the smoker, so use a clean probe thermometer rather than a clock or colour. Check the thickest flesh near the backbone without touching bone; it must reach 62.8°C. Transfer the fish to a clean tray. Keep it covered while you prepare the stew, and do not leave it at room temperature for more than 2 hours.

Cook the tomato and herb base Heat the oil in a heavy lidded pot over medium heat. Add the spring onion and tomatoes and cook for about 8 minutes, stirring, until softened and juicy. Stir in the achiote, basil, poleo and cilantro. If poleo is not available, use mint for a related fresh herbal note; do not use an unidentified wild plant.

Simmer the potatoes Add the potatoes and 700 ml water. Cover and simmer gently for 18–22 minutes, until a knife enters the largest pieces with slight resistance. Stir occasionally so the potatoes cook evenly, adding more of the measured water if the pot is getting dry. The finished base should be brothy enough to simmer the fish but thick enough to coat a spoon.

Finish the sudado Set the smoked fish over the potatoes and spoon some guiso on top. Add the remaining 45 ml lemon juice and up to 200 ml of the remaining water to keep the stew shallow. Cover and simmer gently for 10–15 minutes, until the potatoes are tender and the fish is hot throughout. Recheck the thickest flesh at 62.8°C, avoiding the backbone. Taste the sauce and add the remaining salt only if needed. Bring the pot to the table or transfer the fish carefully to a warm platter with the potatoes and sauce around it. Warn diners about the fine bones and check each portion, especially for children. Serve hot with rice or cooked green plantain if desired. Refrigerate leftovers in shallow containers within 2 hours, use within 3–4 days and reheat until steaming hot. This recipe is not a preservation method.