草津坐落在群马县海拔约1200米的森林山坡上，地处被火山环绕的盆地之中：西边是仍在活动的草津白根山（2160米），其邻近的休眠火山是本白根山（2171米）和天狗山（1385米）。草津占地约250平方公里，但居民却不足六千人，小镇紧凑的中心围绕着汤畑（Yubatake）——“热水田”——每分钟约有三万四千升含硫的酸性泉水从中冒出。汤畑的木质水道之外，草津的地势迅速上升，形成了小径、火山口湖和瀑布，既有冬日积雪的宁静，也有盛开的高山植物。
草津的海拔造就了气候反差鲜明的气候。夏季温和宜人，8月最高气温约为23.7°C；冬季1月平均气温为-1.4°C，大雪覆盖街道，积雪并非仅靠犁地清理，而是依靠引来的温泉水。年降水量约为1711毫米，9月是降雨最多的月份。针叶林与日本花楸和杜鹃花交织在一起，谷底保留着地下裂缝的热量——冰与火的交织，长期以来吸引着前来寻求慰藉和重生的游客。
当地传说将草津温泉的发现追溯到公元2世纪，认为是传奇武士大和武尊或苦行僧的发现。虽然12世纪末之前的文献记载稀少，但传统认为源赖朝于1193年曾在此驻足，在如今被称为赖朝宫的地方沐浴。建于1200年左右的光泉寺是该聚落中最早确认的围绕温泉而建的机构。
到了十六世纪末，受伤的武士纷纷慕名前往草津温泉疗养。1595年，丰臣秀吉甚至亲自向德川家康推荐了草津温泉。在江户时代，尤其是在其末期，草津的名声大噪：游客蜂拥而至，前来治疗从关节痛到慢性消化系统疾病等各种疾病。传说第八代将军德川吉宗曾将温泉水引至江户城。当时有句俗语：“草津千店江户”（意为“千家店铺，堪比江户”），足以证明草津镇的经济繁荣。
1869年的一场毁灭性的大火将草津大部分地区夷为平地。重建工作进展迅速，却也让许多市民背上了债务。在接下来的几十年里，日式旅馆和小型企业纷纷倒闭，迫使曾经习惯于每年冬季返回低地家园的季节性居民不得不全年留守。现代市政当局于1889年成立，将草津与邻近的村庄合并；到1900年，核心村庄正式升格为镇。外国科学家和医生，尤其是德国内科医生埃尔温·巴尔茨，来到这里研究温泉。巴尔茨对温泉杀菌和修复功效的研究，不仅引进了西方的医疗方案，还帮助日本诊所规范了温泉的沐浴方式。
大正时代初期，除了浴场之外，还增添了其他便利设施。1914年，当地滑雪爱好者成立了一个滑雪俱乐部；两年后，英国传教士玛丽·康沃尔·莱格创立了圣巴拿巴传教团，为患有麻风病的居民提供医疗服务。她的教堂和毗邻的公园至今仍是她辛勤工作的见证。连接草津和附近轻井泽的窄轨铁路于1926年开通，1948年，日本首条滑雪缆车登上了天狗山。虽然圣巴拿巴医院于1941年被政府运营的空龙乐泉园疗养院取代，但康沃尔·莱格的遗产却通过纪念碑和地名得以传承。
旅游业约占当地就业岗位的九成，但近年来，一场备受瞩目的纠纷扰乱了草津市民的生活。2020年，草津町议员荒井翔子指控黑岩信忠猥亵；随后引发了罢免选举。随后的法律诉讼，包括荒井本人因虚假投诉被起诉，最终导致法院于2024年1月裁定，认定其没有性行为证据，并责令荒井赔偿损失。这一事件暴露了日本小镇传统、名誉和女性权利之间的紧张关系。
草津周围有一百多处独立的泉眼，但单论流量，没有一处能与汤畑之汤相比：每分钟涌出五千升水，水温高达七十摄氏度。当水流从岩架上倾泻而下时，其矿物“花”（汤之花）会形成沉积物，这些沉积物被收集起来，作为颗粒状纪念品出售，可以在家中重现温泉的氛围。毗邻汤畑之汤的“热汤”温泉浴场，水温过高，不适合直接浸泡；在这里，百年历史的“汤揉”仪式用木板给泉水降温，并伴以歌舞。“大泷之汤”——“大瀑布浴场”——在木质屋顶下设有室内和室外游泳池，而西之河原公园占地 500 平方米的露天温泉浴场可同时接待一百多名客人。 Therme Therme 等现代化综合设施将德国温泉理念与当地传统融为一体，而 Bälz 温泉中心则坐落在俯瞰远处山峰的高原上，是滑雪爱好者在山坡上度过一天后最喜爱的地方。
小镇上方，火山口湖和瀑布点缀着徒步路线。汤釜位于白根山海拔2100米处，湖面呈酸性，碧绿如翡翠；附近的弓池（弓形湖）海拔2000米，湖水晶莹剔透。大泉瀑布和城府瀑布等瀑布倾泻而下，流经雪松林。高山草甸上野花盛开：兔尾棉草（绵菖蒲）、日本花楸（七日楸）、多种杜鹃花、蓝龙胆（荦林藤）以及娇嫩的荷包牡丹。西之河原公园的游客中心对这些物种以及维持它们生长的火山力量进行了讲解。
草津的日历既体现了佛教习俗，也体现了当地传说。五月初，孩子们会在汤畑（Yubatake）里画一头大象，以此纪念佛祖的诞辰。六月一日是冰洞节，据说用远古冰川的冰块泡茶可以抵御疾病。温泉感恩节在八月初拉开帷幕：盛装打扮的侍者在光泉寺（Kōsenji）表演温泉神明的下山和上山，象征着温泉的恩惠得以延续。八月下旬，这里会举办国际室内乐聚会，通常皇室成员也会参加。季节性活动丰富多彩，从自行车比赛、雪墙徒步到足球比赛和滑雪学校展示，应有尽有。
草津町没有本地高中，但保留了小学和初中校园，其职业足球队群马县羽草津足球队（Thespakusatsu Gunma）的主场设在前桥。自1914年滑雪俱乐部成立以来，冬季旅游业推动了社区联赛和国际比赛的发展。天狗山和白根山的滑雪场目前提供十条滑雪道，总长八公里，配备十多部缆车。
不同寻常的是，草津没有自己的火车站。游客可以在JR吾妻线的长野原-草津口站下车，然后乘坐巴士或接驳车前往。早间有两班特快列车直达东京上野，车程约两小时二十分钟；其他时间，游客可经高崎或轻井泽转车。当地有一条连接汤畑、各大旅馆和终点站的环线巴士，票价仅为100日元，许多酒店也提供免费接驳车。
除了汤之花等温泉产品外，草津的甜点也体现了高原农业的特色。甜豆（Amanattō）——一种糖豆——依赖于生长在海拔七百米以上的品种。馒头（Manjū）——一种以红豆馅料为馅的蒸糕点，常常散发着淡淡的硫磺味。在纪念品商店里，游客们既能找到德式俗气的商品，也能找到日式手工艺品，这见证了该镇几个世纪以来东西方文化的交流。
草津融合了各种自然元素——火山的热浪、针叶林掩映的山谷、热水和冷空气——呈现出一幅独特的景观，社区、商业与仪式和名声交织在一起。尽管草津的经济依赖于旅游业，但它保留了层层的历史肌理：从赖朝在汤畑的王座到现代关于公民行为的争议；从武士疗养到滑雪缆车的机械化。在每一个热气腾腾的池子和节日游行中，草津都淡淡地承载着它的过去，尽管它仍然依赖这份遗产来维持生计和确立自己的身份认同。
草津温泉
The town is renowned for its numerous hot springs, having over 100 sources distributed across the region. These springs jointly generate an impressive 34,000 liters of water each minute, originating from subterranean depths. The water from these springs is noted for its sulfurous and acidic characteristics, which are said to have various therapeutic benefits.
The medicinal efficacy of Kusatsu’s hot springs has been acknowledged for generations. Both visitors and residents pursue these waters for their alleged capacity to relieve various diseases. The springs are purported to alleviate illnesses such as arthralgia, shoulder stiffness, paralysis, different types of sclerosis, contusions, sprains, chronic dyspepsia, hemorrhoids, chills, arteriosclerosis, burns, and persistent gynecological problems. The comprehensive array of possible advantages has bolstered Kusatsu’s sustained appeal as a health and wellness locale.
One of the most notable features of Kusatsu is the inventive and diverse application of its hot spring water. In addition to its main role in bathing facilities, the naturally heated water fulfills several utilitarian functions inside the community. It serves as a sustainable heating source for the city’s elementary and secondary schools, along with the municipal welfare center. In the severe winter months, the hot spring water is utilized to warm the pavements, inhibiting ice formation and providing safer transit for both people and automobiles. Numerous homes in Kusatsu utilize this natural resource for their heating requirements. The municipal swimming pool is specially heated with hot spring water, ensuring a comfortable aquatic environment throughout the year.
The Yubatake is the centerpiece of Kusatsu. This central hot spring is among the largest in the area and serves as its primary attraction. The term “Yubatake” translates to “hot water field,” accurately characterizing this extraordinary natural occurrence. Spring water rises from the rocky terrain and is meticulously channeled through a sequence of wooden boxes organized in rows. These boxes fulfill a dual function, serving as both a cooling mechanism for the heated water and a growing space for one of Kusatsu’s specialties, Yu no hana.
The vicinity of Yubatake is rich in historical and cultural significance. Visitors will encounter 100 nameplates honoring renowned personalities who have visited Kusatsu throughout the years. This distinguished list features worldwide leaders such as Erwin Bälz, a German internist instrumental in the modernization of Japanese medicine, and Julius Scriba, a groundbreaking German surgeon. Additional distinguished guests were Bruno Taut, a prominent German architect, and Ernest Satow, a British diplomat and Japan researcher. Prominent Japanese figures are also included, such as former Prime Minister Kakuei Tanaka and the iconic professional wrestler Rikidōzan.
The lowest portion of the Yubatake offers a visually striking display. A little cascade cascades over rocks that have acquired an appealing emerald tint from mineral deposits. This location has emerged as a favored site for tourists to take souvenir photographs, providing a scenic backdrop that embodies the natural splendor of Kusatsu.
Netsu no yu is situated adjacent to the Yubatake, although remains unique in its own right. This hot spring justifies its name, meaning “hot water,” with temperatures soaring to an intense 54 degrees Celsius. The intense heat makes direct bathing unfeasible, resulting in the emergence of an intriguing cultural practice called Yumomi. This old technique employs 1.80-meter-long wooden planks to agitate, strike, and knead the water, thereby reducing its temperature to a more tolerable level. The Yumomi ritual has transcended its utilitarian purpose, evolving into a cultural event characterized by the rendition of the Kusatsu song and the elegant motions of traditional Japanese dancing.
Kusatsu has numerous distinguished alternatives for anyone desiring a traditional bathing experience. Ōtaki no yu, meaning “great waterfall hot spring,” is suitably called for its flowing spring water. This timber edifice contains both indoor and outdoor bathing amenities, the latter referred to as a Rotenburo, or open-air bath. The pleasure of immersing oneself in these therapeutic waters amidst the natural splendor of Kusatsu is genuinely unmatched.
The most remarkable bathing facility in Kusatsu is Sai no Kawara, meaning “western riverbed.” This large outdoor pool covers over 500 square meters and can host more than 100 guests at once. The bath is partitioned into distinct areas for men and women, delineated by a wooden barrier to maintain privacy. Situated in a region abundant with hot springs, Sai no Kawara is frequently regarded as one of Japan’s most exquisite Rotenburo, providing bathers with an immersive experience in nature.
The Bälz Onsen Center offers an optimal choice for those who wish to integrate their hot spring experience with additional activities. This resort, situated on a plateau adjacent to the Mount Tengu ski region, provides both restorative baths and stunning vistas. This location has gained popularity as a venue for après-ski relaxation, enabling winter sports aficionados to alleviate muscular tension after a day on the slopes while enjoying expansive views of the surrounding scenery.
