Accras de morue — French Antillean salt-cod fritters
Accras de morue belong to the French Antillean table rather than to a generic idea of French frying. In Guadeloupe, salt cod is combined with fresh alliums, herbs and chilli, then dropped in small portions into hot oil. Household formulas vary: some use egg or milk, while others rely on flour, water and leavening alone. The egg-free, dairy-free batter used here keeps the fish and aromatics at the centre of the fritter.
The most important work happens before the oil is heated. Salt cod must be desalted cold and patiently, then gently poached and flaked so no bones remain. The batter should be thick enough to mound on a teaspoon; a loose batter spreads, absorbs more oil and produces a thin crust around a damp centre. A one-hour refrigerated rest gives the flour time to hydrate and makes portioning more predictable.
Frying temperature is the final control. At roughly 175 °C, teaspoon-size portions colour while the middle has time to set. Work in small batches so the oil does not crash in temperature. The result should be deep golden, light enough to float, crisp outside and steaming rather than wet when broken open.


