On the Dalmatian island of Vis, Viška pogača carries both history and habit in each slice. It belongs to a group of island bread pies that sit somewhere between focaccia and filled flatbread, yet it keeps a sharply defined identity: a robust, olive-oil rich dough folded around a generous layer of onions and salted fish. In local terms, that usually means salted sardines or anchovies, ingredients that reflect centuries of fishing and salting on this once-remote Adriatic outpost.
The town of Vis traces its roots back to Issa, an ancient Greek colony founded in the 4th century BCE. Modern food historians often point to this link when they describe Viška pogača as a relative of Greek and Roman hearth breads, adapted over time to island conditions and the availability of salted fish. In early versions, the filling seems to have consisted only of onions, garlic, herbs, and salt-cured fish, with tomatoes entering the picture much later, after their spread through the Mediterranean.
Within the island itself, Viška pogača carries a friendly rivalry. In Vis town, the pogača traditionally skips tomatoes and leans on the contrast between slow-cooked, sweet onions and assertive salted fish. Across the island in Komiža, the related Komiška pogača folds the same basic idea into a tomato-enriched filling, looser and more sauce-like. Both versions share dough enriched with olive oil and a distinctly coastal pantry, yet the Vis style feels leaner and more focused, allowing onions, capers, and fish to stand in clear relief.
This recipe follows the Vis-town approach: no tomatoes, plenty of onions, and salted sardines as the lead ingredient. The dough resembles a simple focaccia dough—flour, yeast, water, salt, and ample olive oil for tenderness and flavor. The filling starts with a pile of sliced onions cooked slowly until their sharpness fades and their natural sweetness comes forward. Capers bring a briny, floral note that bridges the gap between the onions and the fish. The sardines, rinsed and patted dry, keep their intensity but settle into the dish rather than dominating it outright.
In flavor, Viška pogača is hearty and direct. The crust gives gentle resistance from the olive oil and strong flour, while the interior layer stays moist from the onions and fish. Salt comes from both the dough and the curing of the sardines, so careful tasting during preparation matters. A well-balanced pogača tastes savory and complex without feeling overwhelmingly salty. Warm slices make sense as a light meal, often paired with a simple salad, but cooled wedges travel well and have long been part of fishermen’s and sailors’ provisions along this coast.
This version is designed for a home oven and a standard round pan, with a hydration level that stays manageable even for bakers who work less frequently with yeasted dough. The dough receives one main rise, followed by a shorter rest once the filling has been enclosed. The onion cooking step sets the tone of the filling; patient heat and enough olive oil give a soft, glossy texture that holds together in the slice. The recipe keeps the structure of the traditional Vis-style pogača but offers precise timings, temperatures, and cues, so the result feels reliable whether it is served as part of a Dalmatian-style spread or as a standalone centerpiece on a weeknight table.