In many Croatian coastal homes, the fragrance of garlic, olive oil, and long-soaked salt cod signals the final hours before Christmas. Long before modern refrigeration, dried and salted cod travelled south from the North Atlantic and Norway, reaching the Adriatic through Venetian trade routes; its keeping quality turned it into a pantry staple across Catholic Europe. Along the Dalmatian coast and in Istria, this preserved fish settled into family life as bakalar. When mashed with potatoes, garlic, and oil until pale and fluffy, it takes the form known as bakalar na bijelo, literally “cod in white.”
Bakalar na bijelo usually appears during Advent, most often on Christmas Eve and again on Good Friday. For older generations who grew up with stricter fasting traditions, meat stayed off the table on these days, so bakalar stood in as the central festive dish. Dried cod needed days of soaking in several changes of water, a slow rhythm that matched the anticipation before a major feast. Even in households where the formal fast has faded, a bowl of pale cod spread on the table still marks the evening as something special.
The dish reflects its coastal setting. The ingredient list is short and decisive: salt cod, potatoes, plenty of extra-virgin olive oil, garlic, and parsley, with the occasional splash of milk or cream for a softer emulsion. Potatoes bring body and mild sweetness; cod supplies depth and a faintly nutty salinity that only preserved fish provides; olive oil lends perfume and gloss. The finished spread should look creamy and pale, dotted with a little green from herbs, with strands of cod still visible rather than completely puréed.
Regional habits differ. Some Dalmatian cooks keep the texture rustic, folding in chunks of cod and potato with just enough oil to bind. Others beat the mixture until almost silky, echoing Venetian baccalà mantecato, which shares a similar method. In Istria, garnish can bring in capers or olives, additions that underline the dish’s connection to the wider Adriatic.
This version stays close to a holiday table in Dalmatia. The cod soaks for one to two days, then simmers gently with aromatics until tender. Potatoes cook separately so their starch stays clean and light. Warm milk softens the fish and helps it blend, while olive oil gets worked in slowly so the spread turns glossy without becoming greasy. Garlic and parsley stay fresh and vivid, added near the end rather than boiled for long periods.
For the cook, bakalar na bijelo offers a practical advantage: the main work can happen ahead of time. The cod must soak; the mixture keeps well in the refrigerator; the flavor even settles and deepens after a night’s rest. The spread fits easily into a larger holiday menu: it can start the meal on toasted bread, sit alongside pickles and simple salads, or appear as a midnight snack when guests linger. Many families serve it warm, though room temperature works just as well.
Compared with tomato-based bakalar na crveno, which stews the fish in a red sauce, na bijelo feels lighter in color yet equally rich, leaning on olive oil and potatoes rather than long-simmered tomato. For anyone interested in Croatian cooking, it offers a clear picture of coastal flavors: restrained, grounded in pantry staples, and deeply tied to ritual meals shared across generations.
6
adagok40
jegyzőkönyv45
jegyzőkönyv310
kcal48
órákBakalar na bijelo is a traditional Croatian salted cod spread made by gently simmering soaked dried cod, then mashing it with potatoes, olive oil, garlic, and parsley into a pale, creamy mixture. Served warm or at room temperature with bread or toast, it often anchors Christmas Eve and other winter feast days along the Adriatic coast. The recipe requires some advance planning for soaking the fish, yet the active cooking and mixing stay manageable. The flavors balance salinity from the cod, softness from the potatoes, and herbal brightness from parsley and lemon. The spread holds well in the refrigerator, so it can be prepared ahead, then rewarmed or simply brought back to room temperature before guests sit down.
500 g dried salted cod (bakalar), boneless — traditional base of the dish; dried and salted fillet or loin works best.
Cold water for soaking — enough to cover the fish by several centimetres; changed several times to reduce salinity.
500 g floury potatoes, peeled — such as Yukon Gold or similar; provide body and gentle starch.
1 kis hagyma, meghámozva és félbevágva — flavors the cooking water for the cod.
2 babérlevél — add a subtle herbal note while the cod simmers.
120 ml extra-virgin olive oil — main fat and flavor; choose a balanced, fruity oil that is not too bitter.
80 ml whole milk, warmed — loosens the mixture and softens the fish; omit or swap for unsweetened plant milk for a dairy-free version.
3–4 cloves garlic, finely minced — classic sharpness; adjust to taste.
3 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley — freshness and color.
1–2 tbsp fresh lemon juice — brightens the richness; add gradually and taste.
¼–½ tsp freshly ground black pepper — gentle heat.
Fine sea salt, to taste — used sparingly, since the cod retains some salinity even after soaking.
Warm crusty bread or toasted slices — traditional accompaniment.
Extra olive oil, for drizzling — optional, for a glossy finish.
Citromszeletek — optional, for those who prefer extra acidity.
Rinse the cod under cold running water, then place it in a large bowl and cover with plenty of fresh cold water. Refrigerate for 24–48 hours, changing the water three to four times during this period so the fish loses excess salt.
Drain and check seasoning by cutting off a small piece, simmering it briefly in plain water, and tasting. If it still tastes very salty, return it to fresh water for a few more hours.
Place the soaked cod in a large pot with the onion halves and bay leaves. Cover with fresh cold water by several centimetres.
Bring just to a bare simmer over medium heat, then lower the heat so small bubbles break the surface. Poach for 10–15 minutes, until the fish flakes easily but still holds together.
Lift the cod out with a slotted spoon and set on a tray to cool slightly. Reserve about 250 ml of the cooking liquid in case the spread needs loosening later, then discard the onion and bay leaves.
Add the peeled potatoes to a clean pot, cover with cold water, and add a pinch of salt. Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat and cook for 15–20 minutes, until the potatoes are completely tender when pierced with a knife.
Drain the potatoes well, then return them to the warm pot for a minute or two so residual steam escapes. This keeps the mash light rather than sticky.
While the potatoes steam, remove skin and bones from the cod, then flake the flesh into small pieces with clean hands or a fork.
Warm the milk in a small saucepan until just steaming, then keep it on very low heat so it stays warm but does not simmer.
Combine the garlic and parsley in a large heatproof bowl. Add half of the lemon juice and a spoonful of olive oil, stirring to form a loose paste.
Add the hot potatoes to the bowl with the garlic and parsley. Mash with a potato masher until mostly smooth, leaving a few small pieces for texture.
Add the flaked cod and mash again, blending it into the potatoes while keeping some short strands visible.
Pour in the warm milk a little at a time, stirring or mashing after each addition so the mixture loosens and turns creamy.
Work in the olive oil gradually, a few tablespoons at a time, beating with a wooden spoon or sturdy whisk. The spread should start to look glossy and thick. If it feels too stiff, add a spoonful of reserved cooking liquid.
Season with black pepper and a pinch of salt, mix well, then taste. Adjust with more lemon juice, garlic, or parsley as needed. The flavor should sit in balance: gently garlicky, pleasantly salty, and rich but not heavy.
Serve warm or at room temperature, spooned into a shallow bowl. Drizzle with a thread of olive oil and scatter a little extra parsley on top. Offer warm bread or toast, plus lemon wedges on the side.
Approximate values for one of 6 servings:
| Tápláló | Mennyiség (adagonként) |
|---|---|
| Kalória | ~310 kcal |
| Szénhidrátok | ~17 g |
| Fehérje | ~17 g |
| Zsír | ~19 g |
| Rost | ~2 g |
| Nátrium | ~450 mg |
| Főbb allergének | Fish, dairy (milk); gluten if served with regular bread |
These figures come from standard reference data for salted cod, potatoes, olive oil, and whole milk, scaled to the quantities in this recipe. They should be treated as broad estimates rather than exact clinical values.
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