Viška Pogača (Salted Sardine Focaccia)

Viška Pogača – Focaccia Style Sardine Bread From Vis

On the Dalmatian island of Vis, Viška pogača carries both history and habit in each slice. It belongs to a group of island bread pies that sit somewhere between focaccia and filled flatbread, yet it keeps a sharply defined identity: a robust, olive-oil rich dough folded around a generous layer of onions and salted fish. In local terms, that usually means salted sardines or anchovies, ingredients that reflect centuries of fishing and salting on this once-remote Adriatic outpost.

The town of Vis traces its roots back to Issa, an ancient Greek colony founded in the 4th century BCE. Modern food historians often point to this link when they describe Viška pogača as a relative of Greek and Roman hearth breads, adapted over time to island conditions and the availability of salted fish. In early versions, the filling seems to have consisted only of onions, garlic, herbs, and salt-cured fish, with tomatoes entering the picture much later, after their spread through the Mediterranean.

Within the island itself, Viška pogača carries a friendly rivalry. In Vis town, the pogača traditionally skips tomatoes and leans on the contrast between slow-cooked, sweet onions and assertive salted fish. Across the island in Komiža, the related Komiška pogača folds the same basic idea into a tomato-enriched filling, looser and more sauce-like. Both versions share dough enriched with olive oil and a distinctly coastal pantry, yet the Vis style feels leaner and more focused, allowing onions, capers, and fish to stand in clear relief.

This recipe follows the Vis-town approach: no tomatoes, plenty of onions, and salted sardines as the lead ingredient. The dough resembles a simple focaccia dough—flour, yeast, water, salt, and ample olive oil for tenderness and flavor. The filling starts with a pile of sliced onions cooked slowly until their sharpness fades and their natural sweetness comes forward. Capers bring a briny, floral note that bridges the gap between the onions and the fish. The sardines, rinsed and patted dry, keep their intensity but settle into the dish rather than dominating it outright.

In flavor, Viška pogača is hearty and direct. The crust gives gentle resistance from the olive oil and strong flour, while the interior layer stays moist from the onions and fish. Salt comes from both the dough and the curing of the sardines, so careful tasting during preparation matters. A well-balanced pogača tastes savory and complex without feeling overwhelmingly salty. Warm slices make sense as a light meal, often paired with a simple salad, but cooled wedges travel well and have long been part of fishermen’s and sailors’ provisions along this coast.

This version is designed for a home oven and a standard round pan, with a hydration level that stays manageable even for bakers who work less frequently with yeasted dough. The dough receives one main rise, followed by a shorter rest once the filling has been enclosed. The onion cooking step sets the tone of the filling; patient heat and enough olive oil give a soft, glossy texture that holds together in the slice. The recipe keeps the structure of the traditional Vis-style pogača but offers precise timings, temperatures, and cues, so the result feels reliable whether it is served as part of a Dalmatian-style spread or as a standalone centerpiece on a weeknight table.

Viška Pogača (Salted Sardine Focaccia) Recipe

Recept od Cestovní S pomocníkKurs: Ruka, koláčKuchyně: Chorvatština, dalmatštinaObtížnost: Středně pokročilý
Porce

8

porce
Čas na přípravu

20

zápis
Doba vaření

35

zápis
Kalorie

400

kcal
Doba nárůstu

60

zápis

Viška pogača is a savory bread pie from the island of Vis, built from olive-oil rich dough and a filling of slow-cooked onions, salted sardines, and capers. This version follows the Vis tradition without tomatoes, which keeps the flavors concentrated and lets the sweetness of the onions balance the briny fish. The dough requires a single main rise and then bakes in a round pan until golden and crisp at the edges. The recipe yields eight generous slices, suited to a light main course with salad or as part of a larger spread. The dish works particularly well when baked ahead and served slightly warm or at room temperature, when the filling has time to settle and slice neatly.

Ingredience

  • Na těsto
  • Bread flour, 500 g (about 4 cups) — strong white flour gives a chewy yet tender crust; plain all-purpose flour can step in if bread flour is unavailable.

  • Instant dry yeast, 7 g (about 2¼ tsp) — standard packet amount; active dry yeast can be used if proofed first in warm water.

  • Warm water, 300 ml (1¼ cups) — around 35–40°C; warm to the touch, not hot.

  • Extra-virgin olive oil, 60 ml (¼ cup) — enriches the dough and supports the coastal character of the dish.

  • Fine sea salt, 8 g (1½ tsp) — seasons the dough; reduce slightly for a lower-sodium version since the fish adds salt.

  • Sugar, 3 g (½ tsp) — gives the yeast a gentle boost and helps browning; can be omitted if preferred.

  • Na náplň
  • Yellow onions, 600 g (about 4 medium), thinly sliced — the main bulk of the filling; slow cooking softens their flavor and adds sweetness.

  • Extra-virgin olive oil, 30 ml (2 tbsp) — for sweating and lightly caramelizing the onions.

  • Salted sardine fillets, 150 g — rinsed and patted dry; salted anchovies can replace sardines for a more intense flavor, in which case reduce the quantity to 100–120 g.

  • Capers in brine, 2 tbsp, drained — add tang and a subtle floral note; rinse briefly for a milder result.

  • Flat-leaf parsley, 2 tbsp, finely chopped — fresh, herbal lift that cuts through the richness.

  • Freshly ground black pepper, ½–1 tsp — to taste; balances the sweetness of the onions.

  • For Assembly and Finishing
  • Extra-virgin olive oil, 1–2 tbsp — for greasing the pan and brushing the top before baking.

  • Flaky sea salt, a pinch or two — scattered over the top; optional, and best kept light when using very salty fish.

Pokyny

  • Připravte těsto
  • Bloom the yeast (if needed).
    If using active dry yeast, stir it into 100 ml of the warm water with the sugar and let stand for 5–10 minutes, until slightly foamy. Skip this step for instant yeast.

  • Smíchejte suché ingredience.
    In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour and salt, keeping the salt evenly dispersed.

  • Add liquids and mix.
    Pour in the olive oil, the remaining warm water, and either the bloomed yeast mixture or instant yeast. Stir with a wooden spoon or dough whisk until a rough, shaggy dough forms.

  • Knead to a smooth dough.
    Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 8–10 minutes, until smooth and elastic. The dough should feel soft, slightly tacky, and hold its shape.

  • First rise.
    Shape the dough into a ball, place it in a lightly oiled bowl, turn once to coat, cover, and leave in a warm place for 60–75 minutes, until roughly doubled in volume.

  • Připravte si náplň
  • Slice and start the onions.
    While the dough rises, peel and thinly slice the onions. Warm the olive oil in a wide pan over medium heat, then add the onions and a small pinch of salt.

  • Slow-cook the onions.
    Cook the onions for 20–25 minutes, stirring regularly, until soft, translucent, and lightly golden at the edges. The texture should be jammy rather than deeply browned.

  • Season the filling.
    Stir in the capers, parsley, and black pepper. Taste a small amount and adjust seasoning, keeping in mind the saltiness of the fish. Let the onion mixture cool to lukewarm.

  • Prepare the sardines.
    Rinse the salted sardine fillets briefly under cold water, then pat very dry with paper towels. Cut large fillets into bite-sized pieces.

  • Assemble the Pogača
  • Prepare the pan.
    Lightly oil a 26–28 cm (10–11 inch) round baking pan or springform tin, coating the base and sides.

  • Divide the dough.
    Turn the risen dough out onto a lightly floured surface and gently deflate. Cut off slightly more than half of the dough for the base and the rest for the top.

  • Roll out the base.
    Roll the larger portion into a circle a little larger than the pan, about 5–7 mm thick. Ease it into the pan, letting the edges climb a little way up the sides.

  • Add the onion layer.
    Spread the cooled onion mixture evenly over the dough base, leaving a narrow border clear around the edge.

  • Arrange the sardines.
    Distribute the sardine pieces over the onions in an even layer, aiming for a bite of fish in each slice rather than thick clusters.

  • Roll out the top.
    Roll the remaining dough into a circle that matches the pan size. Lay it over the filling, then pinch and fold the edges of the top and bottom layers together to seal.

  • Rest before baking.
    Cover the pan loosely and let the assembled pogača rest for 15–20 minutes while the oven heats. This short proof relaxes the dough and gives a lighter crumb.

  • Předehřejte troubu.
    Heat the oven to 200°C (392°F), conventional setting. Position a rack in the lower-middle of the oven.

  • Finish the top.
    Brush the surface lightly with olive oil and sprinkle with a small pinch of flaky sea salt, taking care not to oversalt.

  • Score for steam.
    With a sharp knife, cut 3–4 short slashes across the top to let steam escape and prevent large bubbles.

  • Bake.
    Bake for 30–35 minutes, until the top is deep golden and the crust feels firm when tapped. The edges should pull slightly from the sides of the pan.

  • Ochlaďte a nakrájejte.
    Let the pogača rest in the pan for at least 15–20 minutes. Run a knife around the edge, remove from the pan if possible, then cut into wedges and serve warm or at room temperature.

Tipy, řešení problémů a varianty

  • Návrhy na servírování a kombinace
    Viška pogača works well cut into wedges and served on a wooden board, perhaps with a simple salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, and onions dressed in olive oil and wine vinegar, or with a bowl of leafy salad with lemon and herbs. Briny green olives, pickled peppers, or sliced raw fennel make good companions. For drinks, dry Croatian white wine, a light rosé, or chilled lager supports the salty, herbal notes of the filling without overshadowing the sardines.
  • Skladování a ohřívání
    Leftover pogača keeps for 2–3 days in the refrigerator, wrapped or stored in an airtight container once fully cooled. For best texture, reheat wedges on a baking tray in a 170°C (338°F) oven for 8–10 minutes, just until warmed through and the crust regains some crispness. The microwave softens the crust and is best kept as a last resort. The filling develops a slightly more rounded flavor after a night in the fridge, though the crust loses a bit of its initial crunch.
  • Variace a substituce
    A vegetarian version can be made by omitting the sardines and adding more capers, olives, and perhaps a little crumbled salty cheese, though strict tradition favors fish. For a Komiža-style twist, spoon a thick tomato-onion sauce over the base layer of onions before adding fish. Gluten-free dough for pizza or flatbread can stand in for the wheat dough, rolled slightly thinner for easier handling. A quick, weeknight-friendly version relies on ready-made pizza dough and canned anchovy fillets, with a shorter rise and a slightly thinner crust.
  • Tipy šéfkuchaře
    Use plenty of onions; at first the quantity seems large, but they shrink markedly and form the backbone of the filling. Rinse and dry the fish thoroughly so surface salt does not overwhelm the dish. Keep the dough soft rather than stiff, since a more hydrated dough bakes into a tender, open crumb under and over the filling. When in doubt about salt, season lightly during assembly and adjust with a few grains of flaky salt at the table.
  • Potřebné vybavení
    A large mixing bowl and sturdy wooden spoon work for mixing the dough; a stand mixer with a dough hook simply reduces the physical effort. A rolling pin helps shape the dough into even rounds. A 26–28 cm (10–11 inch) round baking pan or springform tin shapes the pogača and supports the sides during baking. A wide, heavy-based frying pan or sauté pan gives the onions enough room to soften evenly without burning. A sharp knife or dough scraper makes portioning and moving the dough easier, and a pastry brush gives even coverage when brushing the top with olive oil.

Nutriční hodnoty

Approximate values for one of 8 servings:

ŽivinaČástka (přibližně)
Kalorie~400 kcal
Sacharidy~50 g
Protein~12 g
Tuk~18 g
Vlákno~3 g
Sodík~900 mg
Klíčové alergenyGluten; fish

These figures are estimates based on standard reference data for wheat flour, onions, olive oil, and salted sardines, and will vary with specific brands, exact quantities, and any ingredient substitutions.

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