Buncek (Smoked Pork Hock) Croatian Bean Stew

In continental Croatia, the sight of a smoked pork hock hanging in a butcher’s stall signals the cold season as clearly as the first frost. Under the local name buncek, this cut comes from the lower part of the pig’s leg, between the ham and the foot, and often appears in winter stews across Zagreb, Zagorje, Međimurje, and other northern regions. When markets fill with fermented cabbage, dried sausages, and smoked ribs, buncek quietly anchors many of the most satisfying pots: sauerkraut braises, kale stews, and dense bean soups. Croatian culinary references list buncek among signature pork specialties, often simmered slowly with beans, cabbage, or kale for an everyday meal that feels humble yet deeply rooted in local taste. 

This recipe focuses on grah s buncekom: a smoked pork hock bean stew that sits at the center of many family tables in northern Croatia during the colder months. Home cooks soak sturdy brown or mottled beans overnight, then simmer them together with a single smoked hock, onions, carrots, celery, bay leaf, and paprika. Croatian cooks describe the dish as a classic “peasant” meal, simple in composition yet generous in its warmth and satiety. Similar bean stews with smoked pork appear across the region under names such as grah or pasulj, always tied to winter, long simmering, and economical cuts that reward patient cooking.

Buncek brings more than smoke and salt. Long cooking coaxes gelatin and collagen from the skin and connective tissue, which slightly thickens the broth and lends a silky feel that clings to the beans. When handled with care—parboiling or rinsing if it tastes extremely salty, and simmering gently rather than at a rolling boil—the hock yields tender meat that pulls away from the bone in large, satisfying pieces. Croatian recipes often recommend a slow simmer of 1½ to 2 hours for the hock itself, timing that lines up neatly with the time needed for dried beans to soften. 

The flavor profile of this stew balances several distinct notes. The buncek provides deep smoke and a pronounced cured-meat savor. The beans contribute a creamy, mild base that catches paprika, garlic, and onion. Carrots and celery round out the sweetness in the background, while bay leaf and black pepper bring structure. A spoonful of tomato paste gives gentle acidity and color without pushing the dish toward tomato soup. Some Croatian cooks finish bean stews with a flour-based roux; others prefer a lighter version where the beans themselves provide body. This recipe follows the latter approach, closer to versions from home cooks who describe their grah as vegetable-forward and free from heavy roux. 

What sets this particular version apart is a double focus: first on controlled saltiness, second on texture balance. Smoked hocks vary widely in salt content, so the method begins with a brief pre-simmer or long soak for the buncek, which helps avoid an over-salty pot. At the same time, the recipe keeps the bean-to-liquid ratio fairly tight, yielding a stew that is spoonable and rich rather than brothy. Potatoes appear in modest quantity to thicken the base naturally and add gentle sweetness, while the vegetables are cut small enough to melt into the beans without turning to mush.

From a practical standpoint, this is a flexible, forgiving dish. It works on a slow afternoon or weekend, rewards reheating, and suits both casual family meals and informal gatherings. In many Croatian households, a pot of grah s buncekom might serve as the main course with crusty bread and pickled vegetables, or share the table with sauerkraut, mashed potatoes, or cornmeal side dishes. 

For cooks interested in Croatian food, buncek stew offers an approachable entry point that relies on accessible ingredients and straightforward technique. The method respects regional practice—long simmering, smoked pork, sturdy beans—while adjusting details such as salt management and vegetable balance for a modern kitchen. The result is a bowl that feels firmly anchored in its origins yet entirely at home on a contemporary table, with deep flavor, tender meat, and beans that hold their shape in a thick, aromatic broth.