Alte Wacht in Grossarl

The Alte Wacht, which means “the old guard” in German, is one of the few remaining toll stations in the Salzburg province. It is located at the entrance to Grossarltal, on a rocky outcrop overlooking the valley. The building has a distinctive appearance, with a red roof, white walls, and a small tower.

The Alte Wacht has a rich and fascinating history, dating back to the 16th century. It was originally built as a toll point and inspection station for goods that were being transported through the valley. It was also a strategic military outpost, a refuge for travelers, and a witness to the religious conflicts and social upheavals that shaped the region.

The Road to Grossarltal

The Alte Wacht owes its existence to the construction of a road in Grossarltal in 1566. The road was carved out of the rock and passed directly by the Alte Wacht. The road was commissioned by Archbishop Johann Jakob Khuen von Belsai, who ruled the Salzburg archbishopric from 1560 to 1586.

The road was built to facilitate the copper mining activities that were taking place in Hüttschlag, a village in the upper part of Grossarltal. Copper was one of the main sources of income for the Salzburg archbishopric, and the road enabled the transportation of supplies to the miners and the export of mine products out of the valley.

Before the road was built, Grossarltal was only accessible by foot trails and cart paths. The road made the valley more connected and prosperous, but also more vulnerable to external threats and influences.

The Toll Point and Inspection Station

The Alte Wacht was initially established as a toll point and inspection station for goods that were being transported through the valley. The tolls were collected by the archbishop’s officials, who also inspected the goods for quality and quantity. The aim was to prevent smuggling and fraud, and to ensure that the archbishop received his fair share of the revenues.

The Alte Wacht also served as a quarantine station, especially during the plague epidemics that ravaged Europe in the 17th century. Starting in 1655, soldiers were stationed at the Alte Wacht to prevent the spread of the disease. They checked the health status of travelers and isolated the infected ones.

The Alte Wacht underwent several renovations and expansions over the years. Around 1680, the old building was demolished and rebuilt. In 1682, a permanent guard contingent was stationed in the building, consisting of a captain, a sergeant, and 12 soldiers.

The Military Outpost and the Protestant Expulsions

The Alte Wacht took on a more military role during the period of the Protestant expulsions from 1731 to 1733. This was a time of religious conflict and persecution in the Salzburg archbishopric, under the rule of Archbishop Leopold Anton Freiherr von Firmian.

Firmian was a staunch Catholic who wanted to eradicate Protestantism from his domain. He issued an edict that ordered the expulsion of all Protestants from the archbishopric, unless they converted to Catholicism. The edict affected about 20,000 people, who were forced to leave their homes and belongings behind.

The Alte Wacht was used as a staging point for the expulsions. The soldiers at the Alte Wacht searched the refugees for any valuables and confiscated them. They also prevented any attempts of resistance or escape. The refugees were then escorted to the border, where they were handed over to the authorities of other states.

The expulsions caused a lot of suffering and resentment among the local population, many of whom sympathized with the Protestants. Some of them even joined the refugees and left the archbishopric. The expulsions also sparked international outrage and criticism, as many European countries offered asylum and support to the exiles.

The Inn and the Road Maintenance Supervisor

The Alte Wacht eventually lost its military and administrative functions, and became an inn that catered to the needs of travelers commuting between St. Johann im Pongau and Grossarltal. The inn offered food, drinks, and accommodation to the guests, as well as a stable for their horses.

The Alte Wacht was sold to the Duchy of Salzburg in 1912. Until 1946, the Grossarl road maintenance supervisor used it as his official residence. He was responsible for keeping the road in good condition and clearing it of snow and debris.

The Alte Wacht faced the threat of demolition in the 20th century, due to the increasing car traffic and the limited space available for vehicles to pass through. However, the construction of the Stegbach bridge in the early 1990s saved the historic building from destruction. The bridge bypassed the Alte Wacht and created a new route for the traffic.

The Alte Wacht was donated to the Hüttschlag National Park Association by the Salzburg province in 2001. The association restored the building and turned it into a museum and a cultural center. The museum displays exhibits and information about the history and culture of Grossarltal, as well as the natural beauty and diversity of the Hohe Tauern National Park.

The Alte Wacht is open to visitors from May to October, and offers guided tours and events. It is a popular attraction for tourists and locals alike, who can enjoy the stunning views of the valley and the mountains from the building.

Grossarl, Austria