Istrian Jota: Croatian Sauerkraut and Bean Stew for Cold Days

Across the northern Adriatic, one pot returns to the table every winter: jota, a thick stew of beans and fermented cabbage cooked with potatoes and smoked pork. In Istria, the Croatian peninsula that leans toward Italy and Slovenia, this stew appears simply as istarska jota and sits beside maneštra as one of the region’s defining comfort foods.

Historical threads run in several directions. Food historians link the name to Friuli, where similar bean and sauerkraut soups evolved under Austrian influence, then spread along the coast toward Trieste, the Slovenian Littoral, and Istria. The ingredient list tells a similar story: New World beans and potatoes share the pot with pork, fermented cabbage, garlic, and bay leaf. Smoked meats and sauerkraut reflect Central European habits; olive oil and local lard anchor the dish firmly in a Mediterranean pantry. The result feels deeply local while still echoing neighboring cuisines.

Within Croatia, Istrian jota often carries the quiet status of a regional “national dish,” a symbol of farmhouse cooking that once relied on preserved staples to get through the cold months. In older households, cooks still simmer dried borlotti beans with ribs, sausages, or cured pork knuckles, then fold in sauerkraut and potatoes for a stew that feeds many people from modest ingredients. Today it appears in taverns and family kitchens year-round, though it still feels especially right when the weather turns sharp and bread sits warm on the table.

The flavor profile rests on three pillars. First comes the gentle sourness of sauerkraut, rinsed lightly so that it stays bright without overwhelming the pot. Next is the creamy body of long-cooked beans and potatoes, which break down just enough to thicken the broth. Finally, smoked pork—ribs, sausage, or a mix—brings depth and salt. Garlic, bay leaves, and sweet paprika round out the stew; some cooks add a pinch of caraway or cumin, a habit shared with Friulian and Slovenian versions.

This version leans into that traditional structure while keeping the method friendly for a modern kitchen. Dried borlotti beans deliver the best texture, though canned beans work well when time feels tight. Smoked pork ribs and sausage create a robust base, with tomato paste and paprika lending warm color. A portion of the beans and potatoes is briefly mashed into the stew near the end of cooking, giving a naturally thick, spoon-coating consistency without flour.

From a practical angle, Istrian jota rewards advance planning. The flavor deepens by the next day, and the stew reheats without losing character, which makes it a strong candidate for batch cooking, busy weekdays, or a shared meal that needs to hold on the stove for late arrivals. The dish suits gluten-free diets when served without wheat bread, and the bean-heavy structure allows a satisfying vegetarian adaptation built on olive oil and smoked paprika instead of pork.

On the table, jota sits somewhere between soup and stew: thick enough to feel substantial, loose enough to soak crusts of bread or sit beside a slice of grilled sausage. In Istria and neighboring regions, it often appears with polenta, sourdough, or simple boiled potatoes, sometimes as a first course, sometimes as the entire meal. However it arrives, a steaming bowl of Istrian jota offers a clear message: this is food made for cold air, long evenings, and unhurried eating.