Hotel Arbez Franco-Suisse is a small, family-run inn literally divided by the France–Switzerland frontier. Situated in the Jura Mountains village of La Cure (Les Rousses commune, France) on the France–Switzerland border, it uniquely allows guests to dine, sleep, or even shower in two countries at once. Opened in 1921, the three-story alpine building has 10 rooms in total, with roughly one-third of its floor space in Switzerland and two-thirds in France. Today it is still run by the same Arbez family that bought the property in 1921, now in its fourth generation.
Hotel Arbez’s novelty draws travelers and geography buffs: guests can literally lie in bed with their head in France and feet in Switzerland. Its common areas are marked by both countries’ flags and border signage. In fact, the hotel’s dining room and bar feature “Douane – Zoll” and flag emblems to remind diners of the international boundary slicing through the building. In short, this is not just a gimmick – it’s a working hotel and restaurant with an unforgettable setting where the border is your roommate.
Quick Facts (As of 2026):
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Addresses | France: 601 Rue de la Frontière, 39220 Les Rousses | Switzerland: 61 Route de France, 1265 La Cure |
| Coordinates | ~46.4643° N, 6.0730° E |
| Rooms / Floors | 10 rooms across 2 floors |
| History | Family-run since 1921 |
| Location | ~41 km (25 mi) east of Geneva (~50 min by car) |
| Transit | ~0.1 km from La Cure train station |
| Amenities | Free Wi-Fi; free parking; bar & restaurant on-site; breakfast available (fee) |
| Languages | French (primary); English spoken |
| Check-in / Check-out | 17:00 / 11:00 |
| Pets | Welcome for €10 per night |
Hotel Arbez (pronounced Ar-bay) is the world’s most famous “line house” – a building bisected by a national border. It stands in La Cure, a village split between the French commune of Les Rousses (Jura department) and the Swiss municipality of Saint-Cergue (Vaud canton). The border runs straight through the hotel: the dining room, kitchen, hallways and some guest rooms are cut in two by the frontier. For example, the dining room is literally divided by the boundary. One half of the honeymoon suite’s bed lies in France and the other half in Switzerland. Even the building’s stairway is split – steps 1–6 are on the French side, while from the 7th step upward you are in Switzerland. Guests jokingly say they wake up in “two countries at once,” and the hotel plays on this in marketing and decor.
Hôtel Arbez is still a modest, rustic country inn. It was converted into a hotel in 1921 by Jules-Jean Arbez and remains an affordable, 2-star Logis hotel. The log-and-stone lodge style, with exposed beams and local wood decor, feels cozy and old-fashioned. On one hand guests find modern comforts – free Wi-Fi, en-suite baths, heat, etc. – but on the other the rooms are small and somewhat dated. Condé Nast Traveler described it as having “rustic, two-star accommodations” that many skiers and travelers still enjoy. The friendly owners and hearty Jura cuisine get frequent praise, though some say the premises feel tired. Practical details: the hotel has 10 guest rooms, basic but clean; each side maintains its own address (French side: Les Rousses, Swiss side: La Cure).
A convenient reference table summarizes the essentials:
Hotel Arbez Franco-Suisse (La Cure, Jura) | Details |
Location & Address | La Cure, 39220 Les Rousses, France (also listed at 61 Route de France, 1265 La Cure, Switzerland). ~41 km east of Geneva Airport. |
Border Situation | International border between France & Switzerland runs through the building. Dining room, kitchen, and some rooms bisected by line. |
Rooms & Features | 10 rooms (standard double, some triples) on 2 main floors. Each is simply furnished with a bathroom. Some rooms straddle the border (e.g. honeymoon suite); one suite is in Switzerland (bathroom in France). Free Wi-Fi throughout. |
Owners/Style | Family-run by Arbez family (4th generation). Alpine Jura chalet style, cozy and casual. Restaurant and bar (French side) serve traditional mountain fare. |
Reservations & Rates | Book via official site or Logis Hotels. Rates range roughly €100–€150/night (seasonal) for standard rooms. Breakfast optional (€10). Check-in from 17:00, checkout by 11:00. |
Amenities | Free parking on-site; bar & restaurant serving local cuisine; pets welcome (€10/night); credit cards accepted (cash limit €1000 due to French law). |
Nearby Activities | Ski resort at Les Rousses (downhill and 200 km cross-country trails); Jura hiking and nature parks; Swiss Vaud hikes (Mont Tendre); lakes and cheese farms. |
Hotel Arbez’s origins lie in a 19th-century border dispute over the Vallée des Dappes. This narrow valley, north of Geneva, had switched hands between France and Switzerland during the Napoleonic era (French annexation in 1802, Congress of Vienna 1815). By the 1860s both countries wanted a clear boundary. In December 1862, France and Switzerland negotiated the Treaty of Dappes: Switzerland agreed to cede the valley (about 7.6 km²) back to France in exchange for equal territory elsewhere. Crucially, the treaty specified that any existing buildings on the handover land would remain the owner’s property. Enter local farmer Monsieur Ponthus, who foresaw an opportunity.
As the new border line was being finalized (effective Feb 20, 1863), Ponthus built a two-story sabaude-style chalet directly on the soon-to-be frontier. He then opened a grocery/shop on the Swiss side and a pub on the French side, profiting from duty differences (alcohol, tobacco, chocolate). When the treaty took effect, Ponthus retained his frontier house under the grandfather clause. In 1921 his heirs sold the land and building to Jules-Jean Arbez, who rebuilt and expanded it into the present hotel. Thus Hotel Arbez was born – and remained in the Arbez family.
Historical Timeline: Key dates in the hotel’s history.
– 1802: France annexes the Vallée des Dappes (at Napoleon’s request).
– 1815: Congress of Vienna restores it to Switzerland.
– Dec 1862: Franco-Swiss “Dappes” Treaty drafted (ratified Feb 1863).
– 1862–63: Landowner Ponthus builds a house/inn straddling the new border.
– 1921: Jules-Jean Arbez buys the property; opens it as Hôtel Arbez Franco-Suisse.
– 1940s: WWII – Hotel becomes clandestine refuge (see next section).
– 1958: Owner Max Arbez proclaims micronation of “Arbézie” (Prince Max I).
– Dec 9, 1961: Preliminary Evian talks held in the hotel, leading to Algerian independence.
– Apr 22, 2012: Max Arbez honored by Yad Vashem as Righteous Among Nations.
Despite its humble appearance, the hotel’s history intersects with major events. The Franco-Swiss Dappes Treaty (1862) and its implementing acts are the legal foundation for the hotel’s existence. Historical scholars note that the treaty deliberately preserved buildings like Ponthus’s inn. In the mid-20th century Hotel Arbez gained international intrigue by virtue of that same geography, as wartime sanctuary and diplomatic meeting place (see below). Through it all, the hotel has quietly remained family-owned, a living relic of its borderland past.
The true heroism of Hotel Arbez emerged during World War II. From 1940 to 1945 the building sat on the line between German-occupied eastern France and neutral Switzerland. Amazingly, the hotel’s layout turned into a secret escape route. The only stairway to the Swiss floors begins with its 7th step on Swiss soil. In practice, anyone who crossed into Switzerland on the staircase was beyond Nazi reach. The Arbez family – led by Max and his wife Angèle – exploited this loophole. They sheltered Jews, downed Allied airmen, and resistance fighters in the upper rooms (the Swiss side) while Nazi soldiers prowled just outside on the French side.
Documented testimonies indicate that hundreds of fugitives passed through Hotel Arbez during the war. Max Arbez would quietly slip people past customs guards or down the stairs to safety, essentially smuggling them from occupied France into Switzerland. On several occasions bullets from German patrols flew through the French dining room, missing by inches, while the escapees were already upstairs on Swiss soil. After the Liberation, Charles de Gaulle personally thanked the Arbez family for their bravery. In 2012 Max Arbez was formally recognized as Righteous Among the Nations by Yad Vashem (Angèle had received the honor posthumously in 2013).
Historical Note: Hotel Arbez’s secret role in WWII hinged on its staircase. The border running through the hallways meant that “by the time refugees had made that decisive step inside,” they were in Switzerland and safe from Nazi laws. In effect, half the hotel was Belgian for the occupiers. This extraordinary story is central to the hotel’s legacy.
The Arbez family’s courage is part of the hotel’s living narrative. Angèle and Max’s young granddaughter later recalled, “Whenever Germans were around, [my grandmother] used to hide the Jewish children upstairs in the border room.” This quiet heroism turned the hotel into “an important waypoint for the organised Resistance”. The contemporary owners still treasure these memories; as one current proprietor notes, “the beauty of this place and its history is that everything blurs, as if that line disappears… it is truly a place where anything is possible”.
The Arbez’s neutrality advantage also played out in post-war diplomacy. In the summer of 1962, negotiators were finalizing the Évian Accords to end the Algerian War of Independence. Unofficial preparatory talks took place at Hotel Arbez on December 9, 1961. By a clever arrangement, French government delegates entered through the hotel’s French side while leaders of the Algerian FLN came via Switzerland. Inside the dining room (bisected by the border), both parties effectively sat together yet legally in separate territories. This neutral ground allowed frank discussions that led to a successful agreement.
Historians credit the Franco-Swiss border setting with facilitating this rare meeting. As one account notes, “French diplomats entered from France, Algerian representatives from Switzerland,” making Arbez a perfect halfway point. The Évian Accords, signed in March 1962, granted Algerian independence the same year. While Hotel Arbez is not widely publicized in diplomatic histories, its role in these preliminary talks is a celebrated local legend. It stands today as a symbol of the hotel’s recurring theme: borders both divide and unite.
Dining Room: The large ground-floor dining hall is cut directly in half by the international line. One end of the room (marked by a small border sign) is France, the other end is Switzerland. The French and Swiss flags hang at opposite corners. This means that guests can literally sit in two countries at once while eating breakfast or dinner.
Bar: The hotel bar (on the ground floor facing the street) lies entirely on the French side. However, the border line passes just outside its front door. Bar stools and counters are all in France, so even smoking or drinking legally occurs under French jurisdiction here.
Honeymoon Suite: The most famous room is the top-floor honeymoon suite. In this suite the bed is bisected by the border. Half of the bed (head end) is in France, the other half (foot end) in Switzerland. Waking up feeling truly “binational” is the main novelty of this suite.
Staircase: The guest staircase itself is a local legend. The first six steps are in France, but the 7th step crosses into Switzerland. From that step upward to the top floor, the entire stairwell is Swiss territory. In practice, a guest who steps onto the 7th stair enters Switzerland without ever opening a door – one of the quirkiest border crossings imaginable.
Other Rooms: – One upstairs guest room has its bedroom in Switzerland but its bathroom in France. – There is a small annex building (added later) which lies completely in Switzerland. – Most other rooms are on one side or the other except for the special cases above.
This room-by-room breakdown has no peer on the web – few travel guides bother to detail exactly which side of the hotel each space occupies. It’s a perfect illustration of the hotel’s novelty and worth examining on any visit.
Practical Tip: If you’re adventurous, try booking the honeymoon suite or requesting one of the split rooms. Even a standard room offers fun glimpses of the border (look for the line marker on the floor!). And remember: there’s no passport check if you walk from your bed in France to the bathroom in Switzerland. (Legally the building remains French property, so normal border formalities don’t apply indoors.)
In 1958, owner Max Arbez whimsically declared the hotel its own tiny “principality” called Arbézie. He styled himself Prince Max I and embraced the idea of sovereignty for fun. Max designed a triangular flag (reflecting the shape of the property’s border triangle) and even minted a fictional currency, the “Arbézienne rupee.” He proceeded to name people as honorary citizens of Arbézie: famously he granted Charles de Gaulle (then President of France) the first honorary citizenship during a state visit to La Cure. Other celebrities like explorer Paul-Émile Victor and author Bernard Clavel also received honorary titles.
Of course, Arbézie was never a real country – it had no legal status – but it added a playful chapter to the hotel’s history. Guests today will still see Arbézie souvenirs and the little flag displayed. The tongue-in-cheek micronation theme contributes to the hotel’s charm. It’s a reminder that at Arbez, the absurd (half a room in Switzerland?) is just routine.
Location & Access: Hotel Arbez lies at the mountain village of La Cure (altitude ~1100 m), on Route 57 near the Swiss border. From Geneva Airport it is about a 40-minute drive (26 mi): take the A40 toward Pontarlier, then D1005/N5 through French Jura to La Cure. The nearest train station is La Cure (on the Vallorbe–Saint-Gervais line), just 100 m from the hotel – although service is infrequent. A shuttle from Geneva via Vallorbe is an option in winter. French (EUR) and Swiss (CHF) currencies are both accepted, though prices and taxes are standardized on the French side (the hotel’s operating company pays taxes in both countries).
Rooms & Rates: The hotel has 10 simple guest rooms (mostly doubles, some triples). Each is modestly furnished in rustic Jura style. In France one pays in euros; if you find yourself on the Swiss side of the building, Swiss francs are also accepted (roughly 1 CHF≈1 EUR). Rates vary seasonally (as of 2024 roughly €100–€150 per night for standard rooms), and the breakfast buffet is optional (about €10 extra). Booking is done via the Logis Hotels network or the official site, which also offers occasional package deals (e.g. half-board, spa retreats). French law restricts cash payments to 1000 EUR, but credit cards are accepted.
Dining: The on-site restaurant (French side) serves hearty Jura and Swiss dishes – think fondue, rösti, grilled mountain meats and regional cheeses. Breakfast is available in the divided dining room (with both French and Swiss options). A bar/lounge provides drinks and light meals. By tradition, if you sip coffee at one end of the dining room you are in France, and at the other end in Switzerland! Despite the international fun, the food is straightforward local fare. Planning Note: The restaurant closes on some afternoons and in winter it can be booked up during busy ski weekends – check the schedule in advance.
Amenities & Services: As noted, free Wi-Fi covers the whole property. Free self-parking is available on site (snow tires recommended in winter). Pets are welcome (nominal fee, €10 per night). The hotel can store ski equipment or bicycles. Reception speaks French and English. Practical details: check-in begins at 17:00; check-out by 11:00. A city tax (~€1.50 per person/night) is charged on-site. (The hotel is governed by French regulations, so French smoking bans and safety rules apply to the entire building.)
Nearby Activities: La Cure is a ski and nature hub. In winter, Les Rousses ski resort (3 km away) offers downhill slopes and an extensive cross-country network (200+ km of tracks across France and Switzerland). Snowshoeing and sledding trails begin at the hotel doorstep. In summer, the area has hiking and mountain-bike routes in the Jura (French side) and nearby Vaud Alps (Swiss side). The scenic Vallée des Dappes itself is lovely for walks and lakeside picnics. Cultural sites: a short drive leads to Swiss villages like Nyon or to the medieval Lake Geneva town of Saint-Cergue. Even on foot, one can walk a short loop that briefly enters Switzerland and returns (formalities waived under Schengen).
Travelers are drawn by the hotel’s novelty and history. Reviews frequently mention the friendly, down-to-earth service (it is family-run) and the unique thrill of “sleeping in two countries.” Many guests enjoy the mountain scenery and hearty food. For example, Condé Nast Traveler notes that cross-country skiers still “enjoy the rustic, two-star accommodations at the Arbez”.
However, guests also comment honestly on limitations. Rooms are small and the decor shows its age, so one shouldn’t expect luxury. Some note that soundproofing is minimal and dated furnishings could be improved. (Insider advice: If peace and quiet are paramount, you might prefer staying off-peak or in the annex on the Swiss side.) In online ratings the hotel averages around 3–4 stars: Expedia shows a moderate 6.6/10, for instance. Yet most agree it’s “clean and cozy,” suitable for a night or two as an experience if not a high-end resort.
Pros: Unforgettable novelty (dining with half the room in another country); friendly multilingual hosts; hearty regional cooking; excellent location for Jura outdoors. Cons: No-frills rooms (space is tight); limited on-site amenities (no spa/pool); and being on a main road means occasional traffic noise. Overall verdict: “Come for the novelty, stay for the charm” – or at least for one memorable night.
Hotel Arbez raises many intriguing legal questions. Officially it is a single French-registered property (operated by SARL Arbez Franco-Suisse) that just happens to sit astride two nations. In practical terms, the French side’s laws generally govern day-to-day operations – for example, when France banned smoking in restaurants in 2008, the rule was enforced in the entire dining room (even on the Swiss side). Similarly, the local tourism taxes are paid to French authorities and split with Switzerland.
The company itself pays taxes equally to both countries. (This arrangement reportedly stems from a 1931 protocol that divided certain frontier earnings.) There have been odd entanglements: one example is that Swiss and French border guards would have theoretically authority up to certain walls inside the house – a situation that required special agreements. Yet for modern visitors, the difference is mostly fun, not formal. Today both France and Switzerland are in Schengen, so no passport checks are needed to go from one side of the hotel to the other. As one local attorney quipped, “a cup of coffee in Switzerland and a visit to the restroom in France are merely steps away.”
Another curiosity: the Treaty of Dappes itself protected the hotel’s status. Because Ponthus built before the treaty’s final ratification, his property was exempted from land swaps. In effect, Hotel Arbez exists by virtue of that old treaty clause. So the inn is a kind of vestige of 19th-century diplomacy. In short, the hotel operates under a blend of French and Swiss rules – a nuance reflected in its management (a French company) and its playful ethos.
Hotel Arbez Franco-Suisse is more than a curiosity; it is a living piece of history and a testament to European rapprochement. What began as a clever loophole around a 19th-century border dispute has become a quirky landmark where two nationalities share common ground. Over the years the Arbez family’s inn has sheltered refugees, bridged cultures, and even hosted peace talks. Its brick-and-mortar presence reminds us that borders are human constructs – a point driven home when guests walk from one country to another simply by crossing a room.
Today the hotel stands as a symbol of European unity in miniature. Behind the playful nickname “Arbézie” and the novelty of split rooms, Hotel Arbez offers a clear message: distinctions between neighbors can be set aside in one welcoming home. As travel writer Ken Jennings observed, whether one is eating, sleeping, or climbing the stairs at Arbez, “you can check in and then decide whether you’re in the mood for a French vacation, or a Swiss one”. In the age of open borders, the Arbez experience is a charming reminder that the everyday paths we walk often transcend lines on a map.
