Cholula’s Great Pyramid challenges conventional wisdom. This modest hill in central Mexico is actually a vast, multilayered temple – a “hand-made mountain” (Nahuatl Tlachihualtepetl) that reminds us to question assumptions. By volume (~4.45 million m³) it far surpasses Egypt’s Great Pyramid, yet its grassy summit is crowned by a small 16th-century Catholic church. Beneath that church the ancient temple’s six superimposed stages lie buried. Every step of the grassy terraces or descent into a frescoed tunnel reveals layered history: each adobe layer and painted wall is a page in the pyramid’s ongoing story.
The pyramid is often simply called the Great Pyramid of Cholula. Its indigenous name, Tlachihualtepetl, literally means “hand-made mountain”. It has also been referred to as the Pyramid of Tepanapa or “Cholula Temple.” On modern maps, it appears as the “Hill of the Remedies.” In 1811 explorer Alexander von Humboldt even measured the base, calling it “the biggest in the ancient world” – an early hint at its true scale.
Cholula sits in the high valley of Puebla (elevation ~2,150 m), about 10 km west of Puebla city. On clear days visitors can see the volcanic peaks Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl framing the site. In local lore these volcanoes are linked to the pyramid’s story, underscoring how the monument dominates its landscape. The terrain is semi-arid with seasonal rains (wet summer, dry winter), so the pyramid’s green covering looks especially striking in the dry months.
A comparison table shows how Cholula’s pyramid dwarfs even Egypt’s famous structures:
Pyramid | Volume (m³) | Height (m) |
Great Pyramid of Cholula | 4.45 million | 66 |
Great Pyramid of Giza | ~2.4 million | 146.6 (original) |
Cholula’s volume is nearly twice that of Khufu’s pyramid, even though Giza’s is much taller. In fact, Cholula’s base area is nearly 16 ha vs. Giza’s ~5.3 ha.
Cholula and Giza were built by very different methods. Cholula’s builders used molded adobe bricks and earth; its layers were added gradually over many centuries. By contrast, Khufu’s Great Pyramid was cut from limestone blocks and erected in a single project over about 20 years (c. 2560 BCE). Cholula’s pyramid grew in phases, burying older temples in new layers. Giza’s architecture is focused on a monumental burial tomb with inner chambers, whereas Cholula’s is an open temple (see below).
The Great Pyramid of Giza was built as a Pharaoh’s tomb. Cholula’s pyramid, however, is not a tomb at all. From the start it served as a temple. Archaeological evidence confirms it was dedicated to the feathered-serpent god Quetzalcoatl, making it the ritual center of pre-Hispanic Cholula. It likely held altars and offerings at each phase. Thus, Giza’s pyramid symbolizes royal burial, while Cholula’s represents religious ceremony. This fundamental difference shaped every aspect of its design: one has rich underground chambers, the other open plazas and stages for worship.
Cholula’s pyramid was a collective effort of many cultures. Its early construction may involve settlers with ties to the great city of Teotihuacan (evidence of talud-tablero architecture dates the first stages to c.3rd century BCE). The “Painted Skulls” and “Nine Stories” phases were built by the Olmec-Xicalanca people (a Toltec-influenced group in Cholula) between 200 and 900 CE. Each new dynasty added a layer: they essentially buried the old temple under new earthen facades. By the late Postclassic era (c.1200 CE), Cholula was densely inhabited but the city was later eclipsed by the rising Aztec Empire.
When Cortés and his allies reached Cholula in 1519, they found only churches and ruins atop what looked like a hill. The Spaniards killed thousands of natives in a massacre, then declared the site sacred to the Virgin Mary. Only later did they reveal the Iglesia de los Remedios (1574) built on the summit. For most of the colonial era, the pyramid was mistaken for a natural mound – its true scale unknown to the outside world. The church’s presence protected the pyramid from total excavation, so it remained largely hidden until 20th-century archaeology.
In 1574 Spanish friars erected this modest stone church on the pyramid’s summit. Its plain façade (later Baroque-style) and gilded interior were built to signify the triumph of Christianity over the old gods. Though small, the church dominates the site’s skyline. Inside are painted wooden altars and 24K gold-leaf panels. As one scholar notes, placing the church atop the ancient temple effectively “enshrined the colonial narrative of Christian ‘remedy’ for the native hill”.
The church remains an active pilgrimage site. Devotees ascend its star-shaped steps especially on the annual feast of Our Lady of Remedies (September 1–2). The archaeological zone (including the church and ruins) draws roughly 220,000 visitors per year, many coming for worship rather than sightseeing. The Nuestra Señora de los Remedios retains deep local meaning: to residents it symbolizes survival and faith interwoven across epochs. Even today, the church bells ring daily, and pilgrims light candles against the low stone walls – a layered ritual that marries colonial and pre-Hispanic heritage in one place.
In 1931 archaeologist Ignacio Marquina pioneered a tunnel-digging approach that transformed Cholula archaeology. Over four decades he tunneled approximately 8 km through the mound. These passageways penetrated five or six of the pyramid’s substructures, revealing colorful frescoes (notably the “Drinkers” mural) and thousands of artifacts. Marquina’s work also exposed the temple’s foundations and carved stone altars. Despite this, much of the pyramid’s bulk remained intact because the tunnels only followed veins of interest. By 1970 the effort had yielded vast notes and museum collections, but many chambers stayed unexplored.
Recent years have seen new investigations. In 2023 a restoration project led by INAH archaeologists (headed by Catalina Castilla) made headlines: they uncovered a perfectly preserved adobe core dating to the Classic period. Inside that core were ritual deposits – ceramic braziers with sacrificial ash and a carved Tlaloc (rain-god) statue. This suggested that even deep within the pyramid, people once made offerings to the gods. Geophysical surveys and 3D mapping are now underway: researchers use ground-penetrating radar and laser scanning to seek hidden chambers without disturbing the church above. Each season of work refines Cholula’s story, showing how much remains to learn.
Excavations have confirmed that Cholula’s pyramid is a true stratified structure. Archaeologists identify at least six superimposed construction stages, each burying the previous one. Hundreds of human remains have been found in offerings and burials – including both sacrificed villagers and victims of the Spanish massacre. Large caches of pottery, stone idols, and carved reliefs attest to the religious functions of each temple phase. For example, one tunnel chamber even yielded a life-size clay sculpture of a jaguar and rituals bowls. In sum, the pyramid has proven to be a rich time capsule: each layer encapsulates a different era of ceremony and power. The flip side is that much of the site remains unexcavated – the only way to see its full plan is through those narrow tunnels.
Tourists can walk about 800 meters of lit passageways inside the mound. Along the way they pass small chambers with original murals: the best-known is the polychrome “Mural of the Drinkers,” depicting a ceremonial pulque-drinking scene. The earthen walls of the tunnels expose clear horizontal layers – each painted or whitewashed by a different phase of construction. In one area visitors can touch the adobe bricks of the oldest core; in another they see new bricks with postclassic glyphs. This cross-section effect makes Cholula unique: by standing in these tunnels you literally see centuries of pyramid-building stacked before you.
The tunnels are a tour of built history. For example, one chamber reveals the uninterrupted red-and-white floors of two successive temples in profile. Another nook contains a stone altar with skull reliefs, evidence of sacrificial ritual. The site’s archaeologists note that less than half of Cholula’s internal layers have been examined – meaning new discoveries are still possible. In 2023, for instance, the finding of the Tlaloc statue deep underground confirmed theories about the pyramid’s ritual role. Walking these corridors, one gets an archaeologist’s perspective: the Great Pyramid of Cholula is not just a heap of earth, but a manuscript of human activity.
Prepare for sun and altitude. Cholula is ~2,150 m above sea level, with strong sunlight and cool dry air (bring water and sunscreen). The site’s official hours are typically 10:00–17:30, Tuesday–Saturday (it is usually closed Sun–Mon, though the adjacent church may be open). An adult ticket costs about 85 MXN (≈US$4); children often enter free. The ticket includes access to the small on-site museum and archaeological zone. From Puebla city, the easiest route is a local bus or taxi (≈20–30 minute ride). On popular holidays like the September festival, arrive early due to crowds.
Practical Information: The pyramid grounds are open-air with some uneven paths. Wear comfortable shoes. The museum has exhibits on Cholula’s history (time permitting). No flash photography is allowed in the tunnels.
Planning Note: Check the schedule in advance – on Mondays and some holidays the site may be closed for maintenance.
Unlike large fenced sites, Cholula feels casual. Visitors walk freely up the pyramid’s broad grassy steps (guided tours are informal or self-guided). At the top, admire the 360° view: clouds often drift over the landscape and volcanoes. Descend carefully into the entrance tunnel (800 m long) and carry a flashlight or use the dim site lamps. Inside, it is relatively cool and quiet; you will notice the earthy smell of adobe and the muffled echoes. The entire visit – museum, summit and tunnels – can take 1–2 hours. Note that only part of the tunnels are accessible (others are blocked for safety).
Local mythology surrounds Cholula’s pyramid. In one Nahua legend, the giant god Xelhua built the pyramid to reach the sky, and Quetzalcoatl later lived there in secret. The pyramids’ dedication to Quetzalcoatl is confirmed by artifacts – priests likely performed rituals here under the serpent-deity’s watch. Nearby volcanoes figure in legend too: Iztaccíhuatl and Popocatépetl (visible from the site) are often told in the story of star-crossed lovers, casting a romantic backdrop to the pyramid. Folk tales of hidden gold or unseen chambers persist, reflecting Cholula’s aura of mystery.
Even today, much about Cholula is uncertain. Only a portion of its six phases has been studied – several temple layers remain unexplored beneath Earth. Researchers continue to debate, for example, exactly how the pyramid’s construction influenced Mesoamerican power dynamics. Some speculate that undiscovered rooms or artifacts still lie buried. New technology (like ground-penetrating radar and 3D scans) is being brought to bear. Until then, visitors can ponder unanswered questions: What lies beyond the blocked passages? What didn’t the Spanish find? Cholula’s silent slopes invite these mysteries.
Cholula’s pyramid was long off the tourist radar. For centuries, it was literally overlooked – Spanish colonists saw only a grassy hill, and early guidebooks largely ignored it. Unlike Egypt’s pyramids (excavated and promoted early on), Cholula never had large-scale excavations to reveal its glory, partly because the church prevented digging. In modern times it lacks UNESCO status of its own (only Puebla’s Historic Centre is listed), so it gets less global promotion. Competition with better-known Mexican sites (Teotihuacan, Chichén Itzá) further pushed it aside. In short, historical happenstance and modest publicity have kept this giant hidden.
Efforts are underway to illuminate Cholula’s full story. Archaeologists plan new surveys – for instance, a 2024 lidar study mapped surrounding ruins and may be applied to the pyramid itself. Conservationists monitor the fragile adobe to prevent erosion and adapt tourist paths to protect the structure. Local scholars are lobbying for greater recognition (there have been calls to extend Puebla’s UNESCO listing to include Cholula). Each year brings fresh discoveries and refinements: as of late 2025, INAH researchers continue excavating small areas and testing methods like muon tomography. With careful management and ongoing research, Cholula’s hidden pyramid should only become better understood – its story rising into the light as surely as the volcanoes smoke on the horizon.
Cholula’s Great Pyramid challenges conventional wisdom. This modest hill in central Mexico is actually a vast, multilayered temple – a “hand-made mountain” that reminds us to question assumptions. It connects distant volcano-topped horizons and underground altars, and spans pre-Hispanic shrines to colonial chapels. Its true grandeur lies in its stratigraphy: each layer of adobe bricks, each painted frieze and ritual offering, is a page in an ongoing story. Every step of its grassy terraces or descent into a frescoed tunnel literally reveals layers of history and faith.
For travelers and scholars, Cholula’s lesson is clear: look deeper. This site is not just a hill for a photo; it is a palimpsest of human ingenuity and belief. By weaving rigorous scholarship with firsthand observation, this guide has shown Cholula as both a scientific marvel and a living cultural landscape. It proves that an archaeological wonder can be a quiet church at noon and a vibrant mural at sunset – each element full of meaning. Ultimately, the Great Pyramid of Cholula stands as a testament to how patient inquiry can transform a humble hill into one of humanity’s most profound monuments.
Q: What is the largest pyramid in the world? A: By volume, the Great Pyramid of Cholula in Mexico is the largest pyramid on Earth. It measures about 4.45 million cubic meters, far exceeding Egypt’s Great Pyramid volume.
Q: Is the Cholula pyramid bigger than the one in Giza? A: Yes – in terms of volume, Cholula’s pyramid (~4.45M m³) is nearly twice that of Giza’s Khufu pyramid (~2.4M m³). However, Giza’s pyramid is taller (146.6 m original height vs. Cholula’s 66 m).
Q: Why is there a church on top of the Cholula pyramid? A: The Spanish built the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios (1574) on the summit as a symbol of Catholic conquest. The pyramid had been mistaken for a hill, and the church’s placement literally overlaid the old temple mound.
Q: Can visitors go inside the Cholula pyramid tunnels? A: Yes. A lit tunnel system (about 800 m long) is open to tourists. Visitors can walk through and see excavated chambers and murals. Tickets include tunnel access. Inside you’ll see stratified walls and frescoes (e.g. the “Drinkers” mural).
Q: Who built the Great Pyramid of Cholula and how old is it? A: It was built in phases by successive Mesoamerican peoples, starting around 300 BCE and continuing into the 9th century CE. The core builders included early Cholulan and Toltec-related cultures (Olmec-Xicalanca). Each era buried the previous temple under new construction.
Q: How much does it cost to visit the Cholula pyramid? A: An adult ticket is approximately 85 MXN (about $4 as of 2025). This fee covers the archaeological zone and on-site museum. The site is normally open mid-morning to late afternoon (Tue–Sat, closed Sun–Mon).
Q: What civilization built the Cholula pyramid? A: Cholula’s pyramid was built by local indigenous cultures, including those influenced by Teotihuacan and later by Toltec peoples (Olmec-Xicalanca). It was part of the Puebla-Tlaxcala urban region before the Spanish arrived. No single name is given – it represents many generations of Cholula’s inhabitants (approximately 300 BCE–900 CE).
