In coastal Croatia, few dishes signal the festive season as clearly as a pot of bakalar simmering on the stove. Salted cod, known locally as bakalar, reaches Dalmatian kitchens as an imported product and appears on Christmas Eve tables across the coast, often as bakalar na bijelo or in this tomato-based stew with potatoes called bakalar na crveno. The dish sits at the point where Adriatic habits, Venetian influence, and centuries of Lenten and Christmas fasting customs meet, and it remains a fixture of family menus from Istria down to southern Dalmatia.
Bakalar na crveno belongs to the family of Mediterranean salt cod stews. It stands somewhere between a Croatian fish brudet and Iberian tomato-based bacalao preparations: a thick, spoonable stew where flakes of cod and wedges of potato rest in a vivid red sauce. The core elements stay steady—dried cod, potatoes, onion, garlic, tomato, olive oil, and bay leaf—while details shift with household tradition. Some cooks add a splash of prošek, the local sweet dessert wine, which lends a gentle caramel note amid the acidity of tomato and the salinity of the fish.
The flavour profile is layered but direct. Long-soaked dried cod brings a concentrated, slightly firm texture and deep savouriness. Potatoes soften and crack at the edges, releasing starch that thickens the sauce and gives it body. Tomatoes supply gentle acidity and sweetness, while plenty of garlic and good olive oil build warmth and richness in the background. A little sweet paprika, optional hot paprika, and a handful of chopped parsley round the dish out with colour, aroma, and a mild, peppery freshness. The stew should taste balanced: salty but not aggressive, fruity from olive oil and tomato, and with just enough wine and spice to give brightness.
Within Croatian cooking, bakalar carries a specific social role. In many families, it appears on Badnjak, Christmas Eve, traditionally a leaner day with fish dishes in place of meat. In Dalmatia this stew often shares the table with bakalar na bijelo, octopus or fish brudet, and simple fritters or Christmas sweets. Some families prepare bakalar na crveno a day ahead and gently reheat it, since the flavours deepen as the cod and potatoes sit in the tomato sauce. The dish feels both festive and modest at once: imported stockfish treated with care, stretched with potatoes and onions into a meal for a whole family.
This version stays close to Dalmatian tradition yet folds in a few test-kitchen refinements. The method uses a longer, gentler sauté of onions for a sweeter base; tomato paste builds colour and depth without overpowering the cod; and the stew cooks without stirring, relying on gentle shaking of the pot to keep the fish in large, tender flakes. The recipe includes prošek as an optional ingredient, with dry white wine as the primary cooking liquid, and offers a precise soaking schedule for the cod so that the final dish lands on the right side of salty. The seasoning quantities aim for a balanced, family-friendly result, with the option of adding extra chili at the table.
For a home cook, bakalar na crveno serves many roles. It works as the centrepiece of a Christmas Eve meal, paired with bread and a simple salad. It can become a make-ahead main course for a winter gathering, since leftovers reheat well and the stew holds flavour over several days. It suits those who appreciate Mediterranean fish stews yet want a dish with a quiet rustic character rather than elaborate garnish. Once the cod has soaked, the cooking itself is straightforward: build the base, layer ingredients, simmer, rest, and serve straight from the pot, with olive oil and parsley for a final touch.