{"id":13889,"date":"2024-09-18T13:17:37","date_gmt":"2024-09-18T13:17:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/staging\/?page_id=13889"},"modified":"2026-03-12T00:14:47","modified_gmt":"2026-03-12T00:14:47","slug":"tbilisi","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/vi\/destinations\/europe\/georgia\/tbilisi\/","title":{"rendered":"Tbilisi"},"content":{"rendered":"

N\u1eb1m tr\u00ean khe tr\u0169ng c\u1ee7a thung l\u0169ng s\u00f4ng Mtkvari, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bao b\u1ecdc b\u1edfi ch\u00e2n \u0111\u1ed3i kh\u00f4 c\u1eb1n c\u1ee7a d\u00e3y Trialeti, Tbilisi, th\u1ee7 \u0111\u00f4 c\u1ee7a Georgia, l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c h\u00ecnh th\u00e0nh b\u1edfi hai th\u1ebf l\u1ef1c song sinh l\u00e0 th\u1ea7n tho\u1ea1i v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ecba h\u00ecnh. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 chi\u1ebfm 726 km vu\u00f4ng \u1edf ph\u00eda \u0111\u00f4ng Georgia, l\u00e0 n\u01a1i tr\u00fa ng\u1ee5 c\u1ee7a kho\u1ea3ng 1,5 tri\u1ec7u c\u01b0 d\u00e2n t\u00ednh \u0111\u1ebfn n\u0103m 2022. B\u1ea3n th\u00e2n c\u00e1i t\u00ean - b\u1eaft ngu\u1ed3n t\u1eeb t\u1eeb tbili trong ti\u1ebfng Georgia, c\u00f3 ngh\u0129a l\u00e0 "\u1ea5m \u00e1p" - g\u1ee3i nh\u1edb \u0111\u1ebfn nh\u1eefng su\u1ed1i n\u01b0\u1edbc n\u00f3ng l\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean bu\u1ed9c Vua Vakhtang Gorgasali ph\u1ea3i th\u00e0nh l\u1eadp m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y v\u00e0o th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 th\u1ee9 5. Theo truy\u1ec1n thuy\u1ebft, con chim \u01b0ng s\u0103n m\u1ed3i c\u1ee7a \u00f4ng \u0111\u00e3 r\u01a1i xu\u1ed1ng m\u1ed9t su\u1ed1i n\u01b0\u1edbc n\u00f3ng v\u00e0 tr\u1ed3i l\u00ean trong t\u00ecnh tr\u1ea1ng b\u1ecb lu\u1ed9c ch\u00edn ho\u1eb7c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1eefa l\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch k\u1ef3 di\u1ec7u. D\u00f9 th\u1ebf n\u00e0o \u0111i n\u1eefa, s\u1ef1 ki\u1ec7n n\u00e0y c\u0169ng \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u s\u1ef1 kh\u1edfi \u0111\u1ea7u c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng b\u1ee9c tranh \u0111\u00f4 th\u1ecb ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p nh\u1ea5t \u1edf Kavkaz.<\/p>\n

V\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t \u0111\u1ecba l\u00fd v\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng, Tbilisi chi\u1ebfm m\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1ee1ng c\u1eeda. N\u00f3 n\u1eb1m \u1edf m\u1ed9t ng\u00e3 t\u01b0 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng theo ngh\u0129a \u0111en: Ch\u00e2u \u00c2u \u1edf ph\u00eda t\u00e2y, Ch\u00e2u \u00c1 \u1edf ph\u00eda \u0111\u00f4ng, Bi\u1ec3n Caspi g\u1ea7n \u0111\u00f3 v\u00e0 d\u00e3y n\u00fai Greater Kavkaz b\u1ea3o v\u1ec7 ph\u00eda b\u1eafc. C\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n nhi\u1ec1u l\u1edbp c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 - \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u b\u1eb1ng s\u1ef1 h\u1ee7y di\u1ec7t v\u00e0 t\u00e1i sinh, \u0111\u00e3 b\u1ecb san b\u1eb1ng v\u00e0 x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng l\u1ea1i kh\u00f4ng d\u01b0\u1edbi 29 l\u1ea7n - \u0111\u00e3 b\u1ea3o t\u1ed3n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00ednh x\u00e1c th\u1ef1c hi\u1ebfm c\u00f3, kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u0103m ch\u00fat. Ph\u1ed1 c\u1ed5, v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ng\u00f4i nh\u00e0 g\u1ed7 cong queo n\u1eb1m xung quanh c\u00e1c s\u00e2n trong v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng con h\u1ebbm ch\u1ed1ng l\u1ea1i logic c\u1ee7a Descartes, v\u1eabn c\u00f2n nguy\u00ean v\u1eb9n ph\u1ea7n l\u1edbn.<\/p>\n

Kh\u00ed h\u1eadu c\u1ee7a Tbilisi ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh t\u00ednh lai t\u1ea1p c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c che ch\u1eafn b\u1edfi c\u00e1c d\u00e3y n\u00fai xung quanh, n\u01a1i \u0111\u00e2y tr\u1ea3i qua m\u1ed9t phi\u00ean b\u1ea3n \u00f4n h\u00f2a c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi ti\u1ebft l\u1ee5c \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3n h\u00ecnh cho c\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 \u1edf v\u0129 \u0111\u1ed9 n\u00e0y. M\u00f9a \u0111\u00f4ng, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 l\u1ea1nh, nh\u01b0ng hi\u1ebfm khi kh\u1eafc nghi\u1ec7t; m\u00f9a h\u00e8, n\u00f3ng nh\u01b0ng kh\u00f4ng qu\u00e1 kh\u1eafc nghi\u1ec7t. Nhi\u1ec7t \u0111\u1ed9 trung b\u00ecnh h\u00e0ng n\u0103m l\u00e0 \u00f4n \u0111\u1edbi 12,7 \u00b0C. Th\u00e1ng 1, th\u00e1ng l\u1ea1nh nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, dao \u0111\u1ed9ng g\u1ea7n m\u1ee9c \u0111\u00f3ng b\u0103ng, trong khi th\u00e1ng 7 \u0111\u1ea1t m\u1ee9c trung b\u00ecnh 24,4 \u00b0C. Nhi\u1ec7t \u0111\u1ed9 c\u1ef1c \u0111\u1ea1i k\u1ef7 l\u1ee5c\u2014\u221224 \u00b0C \u1edf d\u01b0\u1edbi c\u00f9ng, 40 \u00b0C \u1edf tr\u00ean c\u00f9ng\u2014l\u00e0 l\u1eddi nh\u1eafc nh\u1edf v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed9ng kh\u00ed t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. L\u01b0\u1ee3ng m\u01b0a trung b\u00ecnh ch\u1ec9 d\u01b0\u1edbi 600 mm h\u00e0ng n\u0103m, v\u1edbi th\u00e1ng 5 v\u00e0 th\u00e1ng 6 \u0111\u00f3ng g\u00f3p kh\u00f4ng c\u00e2n x\u1ee9ng v\u00e0o con s\u1ed1 n\u00e0y. S\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u00f9 v\u00e0 m\u00e2y che ph\u1ee7 th\u01b0\u1eddng th\u1ea5y v\u00e0o m\u00f9a xu\u00e2n v\u00e0 m\u00f9a thu, b\u00e1m v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng ng\u1ecdn \u0111\u1ed3i xung quanh nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc kh\u0103n cho\u00e0ng.<\/p>\n

B\u1ea5t ch\u1ea5p tu\u1ed5i \u0111\u1eddi c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, c\u01a1 s\u1edf h\u1ea1 t\u1ea7ng hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i \u0111\u00e3 d\u1ea7n thu h\u00fat \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ef1 ch\u00fa \u00fd. Qu\u1ea3ng tr\u01b0\u1eddng T\u1ef1 do, t\u1eebng l\u00e0 n\u01a1i t\u1eadp h\u1ee3p v\u00e0 gi\u1edd l\u00e0 trung t\u00e2m bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng, l\u00e0 n\u01a1i \u0111\u1eb7t v\u0103n ph\u00f2ng du l\u1ecbch ch\u00ednh c\u1ee7a Tbilisi. T\u1ea1i \u0111\u00e2y, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 thu th\u1eadp c\u1ea3 \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u01b0\u1edbng v\u00e0 s\u1eafc th\u00e1i\u2014m\u1ed9t \u0111i\u1ec3m kh\u1edfi \u0111\u1ea7u khi\u00eam t\u1ed1n cho m\u1ed9t \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m t\u1ef1 b\u1ed9c l\u1ed9 m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch ch\u1eadm r\u00e3i.<\/p>\n

Vi\u1ec7c ti\u1ebfp c\u1eadn Tbilisi b\u1eb1ng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng h\u00e0ng kh\u00f4ng qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf t\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0111\u1ed1i d\u1ec5 d\u00e0ng. S\u00e2n bay qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf Shota Rustaveli Tbilisi, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 nh\u1ecf theo ti\u00eau chu\u1ea9n c\u1ee7a ch\u00e2u \u00c2u, nh\u01b0ng v\u1eabn khai th\u00e1c c\u00e1c chuy\u1ebfn bay theo l\u1ecbch tr\u00ecnh th\u01b0\u1eddng xuy\u00ean k\u1ebft n\u1ed1i th\u1ee7 \u0111\u00f4 Gruzia v\u1edbi c\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 \u0111a d\u1ea1ng nh\u01b0 Vienna, Tel Aviv, Baku v\u00e0 Paris. C\u00e1c chuy\u1ebfn bay n\u1ed9i \u0111\u1ecba v\u1eabn th\u01b0a th\u1edbt v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm gi\u00e1 v\u00e9 th\u1ea5p h\u01a1n th\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00e2n nh\u1eafc bay \u0111\u1ebfn S\u00e2n bay Kutaisi, c\u00e1ch \u0111\u00f3 kho\u1ea3ng 230 km v\u1ec1 ph\u00eda t\u00e2y. C\u00e1c tuy\u1ebfn k\u1ebft n\u1ed1i gi\u00e1 r\u1ebb c\u1ee7a Kutaisi \u0111\u1ebfn Trung v\u00e0 \u0110\u00f4ng \u00c2u\u2014cung c\u1ea5p v\u00e9 ch\u1ec9 t\u1eeb 20 \u20ac\u2014thu h\u00fat ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng nhi\u1ec1u du kh\u00e1ch, nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi sau \u0111\u00f3 th\u1ef1c hi\u1ec7n h\u00e0nh tr\u00ecnh b\u1ed1n gi\u1edd \u0111\u1ebfn Tbilisi b\u1eb1ng marshrutka ho\u1eb7c t\u00e0u h\u1ecfa.<\/p>\n

H\u00e0nh tr\u00ecnh t\u1eeb s\u00e2n bay \u0111\u1ebfn trung t\u00e2m th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 tr\u00ean l\u00fd thuy\u1ebft c\u00f3 v\u1ebb \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch \u0111\u00e1nh l\u1eeba. Xe bu\u00fdt c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng 337 ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng t\u1eeb s\u00e1ng s\u1edbm \u0111\u1ebfn tr\u01b0\u1edbc n\u1eeda \u0111\u00eam, \u0111i qua Avlabari, \u0110\u1ea1i l\u1ed9 Rustaveli v\u00e0 C\u1ea7u Tamar tr\u01b0\u1edbc khi d\u1eebng t\u1ea1i ga \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng s\u1eaft ch\u00ednh. Th\u1ebb Metromoney - \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng cho h\u1ea7u h\u1ebft m\u1ecdi h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c giao th\u00f4ng c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng trong th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 - gi\u00fap gi\u1ea3m gi\u00e1 v\u00e9 xu\u1ed1ng c\u00f2n 1 lari. Tuy nhi\u00ean, hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 l\u00fd thuy\u1ebft c\u1ee7a k\u1ebft n\u1ed1i n\u00e0y b\u1ecb suy y\u1ebfu b\u1edfi m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 th\u1eadt dai d\u1eb3ng t\u1ea1i \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng: \u0111\u1ed9 tin c\u1eady c\u1ee7a ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n giao th\u00f4ng c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ec1u v\u00e0 du kh\u00e1ch b\u1ea5t c\u1ea9n th\u01b0\u1eddng b\u1ecb t\u00e0i x\u1ebf taxi hung h\u0103ng ch\u1eb7n l\u1ea1i t\u1ea1i s\u00e2n bay. M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 t\u00e0i x\u1ebf n\u00e0y, kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 gi\u1ea5y ph\u00e9p v\u00e0 r\u1ea5t c\u01a1 h\u1ed9i, th\u1ed5i ph\u1ed3ng gi\u00e1 v\u00e9 l\u00ean g\u1ea5p nhi\u1ec1u l\u1ea7n, g\u00e2y \u00e1p l\u1ef1c cho h\u00e0nh kh\u00e1ch b\u1eb1ng nh\u1eefng h\u00e0ng d\u00e0i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1eadp d\u01b0\u1ee3t v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 ki\u00ean tr\u00ec \u0111\u00e1ng lo ng\u1ea1i. C\u00e1c \u1ee9ng d\u1ee5ng g\u1ecdi xe nh\u01b0 Bolt v\u00e0 Yandex cung c\u1ea5p m\u1ed9t gi\u1ea3i ph\u00e1p thay th\u1ebf minh b\u1ea1ch h\u01a1n, v\u1edbi gi\u00e1 v\u00e9 th\u01b0\u1eddng trong kho\u1ea3ng t\u1eeb 20 \u0111\u1ebfn 30 lari.<\/p>\n

Nh\u00e0 ga xe l\u1eeda, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00e2n \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 Tbilisi Tsentrali, l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p gi\u1eefa th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i v\u00e0 cung \u0111i\u1ec7n hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i. N\u1eb1m ph\u00eda tr\u00ean m\u1ed9t trung t\u00e2m mua s\u1eafm, nh\u00e0 ga t\u1ea1o \u0111i\u1ec1u ki\u1ec7n thu\u1eadn l\u1ee3i cho c\u1ea3 vi\u1ec7c \u0111i l\u1ea1i b\u1eb1ng t\u00e0u h\u1ecfa trong n\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf. C\u00e1c chuy\u1ebfn t\u00e0u \u0111\u1ebfn Batumi tr\u00ean b\u1edd Bi\u1ec3n \u0110en kh\u1edfi h\u00e0nh hai l\u1ea7n m\u1ed9t ng\u00e0y, cung c\u1ea5p m\u1ed9t h\u00e0nh tr\u00ecnh k\u00e9o d\u00e0i kho\u1ea3ng n\u0103m gi\u1edd. Ngo\u00e0i ra c\u00f2n c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t chuy\u1ebfn t\u00e0u \u0111\u00eam \u0111\u00f4ng \u0111\u00fac \u0111\u1ebfn Yerevan \u1edf n\u01b0\u1edbc l\u00e1ng gi\u1ec1ng Armenia, b\u0103ng qua bi\u00ean gi\u1edbi v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng gi\u1edd mu\u1ed9n v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ebfn ga cu\u1ed1i v\u00e0o l\u00fac b\u00ecnh minh. Nh\u1eefng h\u00e0nh tr\u00ecnh n\u00e0y th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ef1c hi\u1ec7n tr\u00ean c\u00e1c toa gi\u01b0\u1eddng n\u1eb1m c\u0169 c\u1ee7a Li\u00ean X\u00f4\u2014c\u00f3 ch\u1ee9c n\u0103ng, ho\u00e0i c\u1ed5 v\u00e0 v\u1eeba \u0111\u1ee7 tho\u1ea3i m\u00e1i. C\u00e1c chuy\u1ebfn t\u00e0u \u0111\u1ebfn Baku, Azerbaijan, v\u1eabn b\u1ecb \u0111\u00ecnh ch\u1ec9 do c\u0103ng th\u1eb3ng trong khu v\u1ef1c v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng d\u01b0 ch\u1ea5n k\u00e9o d\u00e0i c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ea1i d\u1ecbch.<\/p>\n

Tr\u00ean m\u1eb7t \u0111\u1ea5t, vi\u1ec7c \u0111i l\u1ea1i li\u00ean th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 ch\u1ee7 y\u1ebfu l\u00e0 marshrutkas\u2014xe bu\u00fdt nh\u1ecf ch\u1ea1y tuy\u1ebfn \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p gi\u1eefa quy\u1ebft t\u00e2m v\u00e0 t\u00ednh linh ho\u1ea1t. C\u00f3 ba tr\u1ea1m xe bu\u00fdt ch\u00ednh \u1edf Tbilisi: Station Square \u0111\u1ec3 k\u1ebft n\u1ed1i \u0111\u1ebfn c\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 l\u1edbn c\u1ee7a Gruzia; Didube cho c\u00e1c tuy\u1ebfn \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u00eda t\u00e2y b\u1eafc, bao g\u1ed3m xe bu\u00fdt qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf \u0111\u1ebfn Th\u1ed5 Nh\u0129 K\u1ef3 v\u00e0 Nga; v\u00e0 Ortachala cho c\u00e1c \u0111i\u1ec3m \u0111\u1ebfn \u1edf ph\u00eda nam v\u00e0 ph\u00eda \u0111\u00f4ng, bao g\u1ed3m Armenia v\u00e0 Azerbaijan. M\u1ed7i tr\u1ea1m l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t v\u0169 tr\u1ee5 ri\u00eang, m\u1ed9t n\u01a1i m\u00e0 ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200bth\u1ee9c \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng l\u1ea5n \u00e1t bi\u1ec3n b\u00e1o v\u00e0 n\u01a1i m\u00e0 vi\u1ec7c h\u1ecfi m\u1ed9t h\u00e0nh kh\u00e1ch kh\u00e1c th\u01b0\u1eddng hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 h\u01a1n l\u00e0 t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm l\u1ecbch tr\u00ecnh. Gi\u00e1 c\u1ea3 thay \u0111\u1ed5i r\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u v\u00e0 \u0111\u00f4i khi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00e0i x\u1ebf \u0111i\u1ec1u ch\u1ec9nh ngay l\u1eadp t\u1ee9c\u2014\u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 n\u1ebfu gi\u1ecdng n\u00f3i c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi ti\u1ebft l\u1ed9 ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c n\u01b0\u1edbc ngo\u00e0i. M\u1ed9t chuy\u1ebfn \u0111i 10 lari \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00e2n \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u1eb7ng l\u1ebd tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh gi\u00e1 v\u00e9 15 lari \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi kh\u00e1ch du l\u1ecbch.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi th\u00edch s\u1ef1 linh ho\u1ea1t ho\u1eb7c phi\u00eau l\u01b0u h\u01a1n, \u0111i nh\u1edd xe v\u1eabn ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn v\u00e0 hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 \u0111\u00e1ng k\u1ec3 tr\u00ean kh\u1eafp Georgia. C\u00e1c tuy\u1ebfn \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng giao th\u00f4ng ra v\u00e0o c\u1ee7a Tbilisi c\u00f3 xu h\u01b0\u1edbng \u0111\u1ed5 v\u1ec1 c\u00e1c trung t\u00e2m khu v\u1ef1c v\u00e0 t\u00e0i x\u1ebf th\u01b0\u1eddng d\u1eebng l\u1ea1i m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng c\u1ea7n nh\u1eafc nh\u1edf nhi\u1ec1u. Ng\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1ea1i, \u0111i nh\u1edd xe v\u00e0o th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 kh\u00f3 d\u1ef1 \u0111o\u00e1n h\u01a1n do m\u1ea1ng l\u01b0\u1edbi \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng b\u1ed9 ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p v\u00e0 \u0111\u00f4 th\u1ecb h\u00f3a d\u00e0y \u0111\u1eb7c h\u01a1n.<\/p>\n

Khi \u0111\u00e3 v\u00e0o b\u00ean trong th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, Tbilisi cung c\u1ea5p m\u1ed9t m\u1ea1ng l\u01b0\u1edbi giao th\u00f4ng h\u1ed7n lo\u1ea1n nh\u01b0ng h\u1eefu \u00edch. T\u00e0u \u0111i\u1ec7n ng\u1ea7m, v\u1edbi hai tuy\u1ebfn giao nhau, v\u1eabn l\u00e0 x\u01b0\u01a1ng s\u1ed1ng c\u1ee7a giao th\u00f4ng c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng trong th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 X\u00f4 Vi\u1ebft, n\u00f3 v\u1eabn gi\u1eef \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nhi\u1ec1u b\u1ea7u kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed ban \u0111\u1ea7u c\u1ee7a n\u00f3\u2014h\u00e0nh lang t\u1ed1i t\u0103m, thang cu\u1ed1n b\u1eb1ng \u0111\u1ed3ng thau, thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf ti\u1ec7n d\u1ee5ng\u2014m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 nhi\u1ec1u nh\u00e0 ga hi\u1ec7n c\u00f3 bi\u1ec3n b\u00e1o song ng\u1eef v\u00e0 h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng chi\u1ebfu s\u00e1ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3i thi\u1ec7n. Xe bu\u00fdt, nhi\u1ec1u xe m\u1edbi mua, d\u1ec5 s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng h\u01a1n nh\u1edd b\u1ea3ng hi\u1ec3n th\u1ecb \u0111i\u1ec7n t\u1eed v\u00e0 t\u00edch h\u1ee3p Google Maps, nh\u01b0ng vi\u1ec7c hi\u1ec3u c\u00e1c m\u00f4 t\u1ea3 tuy\u1ebfn \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng\u2014th\u01b0\u1eddng ch\u1ec9 b\u1eb1ng ti\u1ebfng Gruzia\u2014v\u1eabn l\u00e0 th\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1edbi \u0111\u1ebfn.<\/p>\n

Sau \u0111\u00f3 l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc marshrutkas v\u1eabn ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 c\u00e1c tuy\u1ebfn \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng trong th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 \u00edt c\u00f3 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng d\u1ef1 \u0111o\u00e1n h\u01a1n. Nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc xe t\u1ea3i n\u00e0y, th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3i t\u1ea1o t\u1eeb xe th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i, ch\u1ea1y qua c\u00e1c khu ph\u1ed1 n\u1eb1m ngo\u00e0i ph\u1ea1m vi c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c tuy\u1ebfn t\u00e0u \u0111i\u1ec7n ng\u1ea7m v\u00e0 xe bu\u00fdt. \u0110\u1ec3 ra ngo\u00e0i, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta ph\u1ea3i g\u1ecdi "gaacheret" \u0111\u00fang l\u00fac, v\u00e0 ti\u1ec1n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tr\u1ea3 tr\u1ef1c ti\u1ebfp cho t\u00e0i x\u1ebf. M\u1eb7c d\u00f9 kh\u00f4ng ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c, marshrutkas v\u1eabn l\u00e0 ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 thi\u1ebfu \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u c\u01b0 d\u00e2n.<\/p>\n

Taxi r\u1ea5t r\u1ebb, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 khi g\u1ecdi qua \u1ee9ng d\u1ee5ng. Nh\u01b0ng ch\u00fang c\u0169ng c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng c\u1ea3nh b\u00e1o gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 b\u1ea5t k\u1ef3 n\u01a1i n\u00e0o kh\u00e1c trong khu v\u1ef1c\u2014kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ed3ng h\u1ed3 t\u00ednh ti\u1ec1n, kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c qu\u1ea3n l\u00fd v\u00e0 \u0111\u00f4i khi m\u1ea5t ph\u01b0\u01a1ng h\u01b0\u1edbng. Kh\u00f4ng hi\u1ebfm khi t\u00e0i x\u1ebf d\u1eebng l\u1ea1i v\u00e0 h\u1ecfi \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng gi\u1eefa ch\u1eebng, ngay c\u1ea3 trong th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. N\u00ean ki\u00ean nh\u1eabn.<\/p>\n

Trong nh\u1eefng n\u0103m g\u1ea7n \u0111\u00e2y, c\u00e1c h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c v\u1eadn chuy\u1ec3n thay th\u1ebf \u0111\u00e3 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n. Vi\u1ec7c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng xe \u0111\u1ea1p, tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u00e2y r\u1ea5t hi\u1ebfm, \u0111ang ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 \u1edf c\u00e1c qu\u1eadn b\u1eb1ng ph\u1eb3ng h\u01a1n nh\u01b0 Vake v\u00e0 Saburtalo, n\u01a1i c\u00e1c l\u00e0n \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng d\u00e0nh ri\u00eang \u0111ang d\u1ea7n xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n. C\u00e1c c\u00f4ng ty cho thu\u00ea xe tay ga c\u0169ng \u0111\u00e3 tham gia th\u1ecb tr\u01b0\u1eddng, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i l\u00e2u d\u00e0i c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd v\u1eabn ch\u01b0a r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng. M\u1ed9t m\u1ea1ng l\u01b0\u1edbi \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng d\u00e0nh cho xe \u0111\u1ea1p ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n b\u00e1o hi\u1ec7u m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i v\u1ec1 v\u0103n h\u00f3a\u2014khi\u00eam t\u1ed1n nh\u01b0ng h\u1eefu h\u00ecnh.<\/p>\n

B\u1ea3n th\u00e2n nh\u1eefng con ph\u1ed1 cho th\u1ea5y m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 \u0111ang \u0111\u00e0m ph\u00e1n v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i. \u1ede m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 khu v\u1ef1c, c\u01a1 s\u1edf h\u1ea1 t\u1ea7ng d\u00e0nh cho ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111i b\u1ed9 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 ho\u1eb7c \u0111ang xu\u1ed1ng c\u1ea5p. C\u00f3 v\u1ea1ch qua \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng nh\u01b0ng hi\u1ebfm khi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00f4n tr\u1ecdng. V\u1ec9a h\u00e8 kh\u00f4ng b\u1eb1ng ph\u1eb3ng, th\u01b0\u1eddng b\u1ecb c\u1ea3n tr\u1edf b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc \u00f4 t\u00f4 \u0111\u1ed7 ho\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7y h\u00e0ng rong. Tuy nhi\u00ean, th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0y l\u1ea1i c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111i b\u1ed9 m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch \u0111\u00e1ng kinh ng\u1ea1c, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 \u1edf trung t\u00e2m l\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. \u0110i qua C\u1ea7u H\u00f2a b\u00ecnh, m\u1ed9t c\u00e2y c\u1ea7u \u0111i b\u1ed9 \u0111\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0111\u1ea1i n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt b\u1eafc qua S\u00f4ng Mtkvari, nh\u1eafc nh\u1edf r\u1eb1ng ngay c\u1ea3 trong t\u00ecnh tr\u1ea1ng chuy\u1ec3n \u0111\u1ed5i \u0111ang di\u1ec5n ra, Tbilisi v\u1eabn b\u00e1m r\u1ec5 s\u00e2u v\u00e0o \u00fd th\u1ee9c v\u1ec1 \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh.<\/p>\n

Kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t \u0111i\u1ec3m tr\u00ean b\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ed3 hay m\u1ed9t ti\u1ec1n \u0111\u1ed3n v\u0103n h\u00f3a, Tbilisi c\u00f2n t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t bi\u1ec3u hi\u1ec7n ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p v\u1ec1 \u0111\u1ecba l\u00fd v\u00e0 l\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh\u2014m\u1ed9t n\u01a1i m\u00e0 s\u1ef1 di chuy\u1ec3n, theo c\u1ea3 ngh\u0129a \u0111en v\u00e0 ngh\u0129a b\u00f3ng, \u0111\u1ec1u li\u00ean quan \u0111\u1ebfn s\u1ef1 th\u00edch nghi nhi\u1ec1u nh\u01b0 \u0111\u1ebfn ph\u01b0\u01a1ng h\u01b0\u1edbng.<\/p>\n

Ph\u1ed1 c\u1ed5, khu ph\u1ed1 v\u00e0 nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y<\/h2>\n

S\u1ee9c n\u1eb7ng c\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c c\u1ee7a Tbilisi l\u1eafng xu\u1ed1ng nhanh ch\u00f3ng. Kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 \u00e1p \u0111\u1eb7t, m\u00e0 nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 bao b\u1ecdc l\u1eb7ng l\u1ebd\u2014g\u1ea1ch d\u01b0\u1edbi ch\u00e2n, th\u1ea1ch cao bong tr\u00f3c kh\u1ecfi m\u1eb7t ti\u1ec1n, g\u1ed7 \u1ea9m cong queo trong b\u00f3ng r\u00e2m \u1ea5m \u00e1p c\u1ee7a m\u1eb7t tr\u1eddi. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng t\u1eeb \u0111\u1ea5t s\u00e9t v\u00e0 k\u00fd \u1ee9c nhi\u1ec1u nh\u01b0 t\u1eeb b\u00ea t\u00f4ng ho\u1eb7c k\u00ednh. Trong s\u1ef1 \u0111an xen d\u00e0y \u0111\u1eb7c c\u1ee7a Ph\u1ed1 c\u1ed5\u2014Dzveli Tbilisi\u2014qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1ea3o t\u1ed3n; n\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ed1ng trong \u0111\u00f3, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3i t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh t\u1eebng m\u1ea3ng, v\u00e0 \u1edf m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 n\u01a1i, b\u1ecb x\u00f3i m\u00f2n nh\u1eb9 nh\u00e0ng b\u1edfi s\u1ef1 tr\u00f4i qua c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi gian v\u00e0 v\u1ed1n.<\/p>\n

Ph\u1ed1 c\u1ed5 n\u1eb1m gi\u1eefa Qu\u1ea3ng tr\u01b0\u1eddng T\u1ef1 do, S\u00f4ng Mtkvari v\u00e0 th\u00e0nh tr\u00ec s\u1eebng s\u1eefng tr\u00ean cao, Ph\u00e1o \u0111\u00e0i Narikala. \u1ede \u0111\u00e2y, \u0111\u1ecba l\u00fd \u0111\u00e3 g\u1ea5p c\u00e1c con ph\u1ed1 th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t \u0111\u1ecba h\u00ecnh ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p v\u1edbi \u0111\u1ed9 d\u1ed1c v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9 d\u1ed1c xu\u1ed1ng. Kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 quy ho\u1ea1ch t\u1ed5ng th\u1ec3 n\u00e0o qu\u1ea3n l\u00fd khu v\u1ef1c n\u00e0y. Nh\u1eefng ng\u00f4i nh\u00e0 n\u1eb1m tr\u00ean s\u01b0\u1eddn d\u1ed1c theo c\u00e1ch s\u1eafp x\u1ebfp phi logic, v\u00e0 ban c\u00f4ng\u2014m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 b\u1eb1ng g\u1ed7, m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 b\u1eb1ng kim lo\u1ea1i, nhi\u1ec1u ban c\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u00f4 ra m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch nguy hi\u1ec3m\u2014nh\u00f4 ra \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ed1 theo nh\u1eefng g\u00f3c b\u1ea5t th\u01b0\u1eddng. C\u00e1c d\u00e2y ph\u01a1i qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o tr\u1ea3i d\u00e0i tr\u00ean c\u00e1c con h\u1ebbm nh\u01b0 ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac ng\u1eabu h\u1ee9ng. C\u00e1c ch\u1ea3o v\u1ec7 tinh nh\u00f4 ra nh\u01b0 nh\u1eefng b\u00f4ng hoa c\u1ee9ng \u0111\u1ea7u t\u1eeb c\u00e1c c\u1eeda s\u1ed5 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00f3ng khung b\u1eb1ng r\u00e8m ren c\u0169 k\u1ef9.<\/p>\n

M\u1eb7c d\u00f9 c\u00f3 n\u00e9t quy\u1ebfn r\u0169 l\u1ed9n x\u1ed9n, ph\u1ea7n l\u1edbn Tbilisi c\u1ed5 v\u1eabn l\u00e0 n\u01a1i \u1edf ch\u1ee9c n\u0103ng. Trong s\u1ed1 c\u00e1c ph\u00f2ng tr\u01b0ng b\u00e0y ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt, c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng th\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng m\u1ef9 ngh\u1ec7 v\u00e0 nh\u00e0 h\u00e0ng d\u00e0nh cho du kh\u00e1ch, c\u00e1c gia \u0111\u00ecnh v\u1eabn s\u1ed1ng trong nh\u1eefng t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 c\u00f3 c\u1ea7u thang nghi\u00eang v\u00e0 s\u00e2n trong \u0111\u00f3ng vai tr\u00f2 l\u00e0 b\u1ebfp \u0103n t\u1eadp th\u1ec3 v\u00e0 ph\u00f2ng kh\u00e1ch. \u0110\u1ecba t\u1ea7ng l\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a khu v\u1ef1c n\u00e0y r\u1ea5t r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng: c\u00e1c l\u1edbp H\u1ed3i gi\u00e1o, Armenia, Gruzia v\u00e0 Li\u00ean X\u00f4 c\u00f9ng t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t v\u1ebb duy\u00ean d\u00e1ng kh\u00f3 ch\u1ecbu. C\u00e1c nh\u00e0 th\u1edd H\u1ed3i gi\u00e1o, nh\u00e0 th\u1edd v\u00e0 gi\u00e1o \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng Do Th\u00e1i kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 di t\u00edch\u2014ch\u00fang l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng n\u01a1i th\u1edd c\u00fang t\u00edch c\u1ef1c, th\u01b0\u1eddng ch\u1ec9 c\u00e1ch nhau v\u00e0i d\u00e3y nh\u00e0, \u0111\u00f4i khi th\u1eadm ch\u00ed c\u00f2n chung t\u01b0\u1eddng.<\/p>\n

Qu\u1eadn Sololaki, m\u1ecdc l\u00ean ngay ph\u00eda t\u00e2y nam c\u1ee7a Qu\u1ea3ng tr\u01b0\u1eddng T\u1ef1 do, c\u00f3 l\u1ebd l\u00e0 n\u01a1i c\u00f3 ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac s\u00e2u s\u1eafc nh\u1ea5t. Nh\u1eefng dinh th\u1ef1 theo phong c\u00e1ch Art Nouveau, t\u1eebng l\u00e0 n\u01a1i \u1edf c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c tri\u1ec1u \u0111\u1ea1i th\u01b0\u01a1ng gia v\u00e0 gi\u1edbi tr\u00ed th\u1ee9c, hi\u1ec7n \u0111ang \u1edf nhi\u1ec1u tr\u1ea1ng th\u00e1i h\u1ed3i sinh ho\u1eb7c suy t\u00e0n. Tr\u00ean nh\u1eefng con ph\u1ed1 nh\u01b0 Lado Asatiani hay Ivane Machabeli, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta b\u1eaft g\u1eb7p nh\u1eefng c\u1ea7u thang g\u1ed7 ch\u1ea1m kh\u1eafc, nh\u1eefng b\u1ee9c ph\u00f9 \u0111i\u00eau tr\u00e1t v\u1eefa m\u1ee5c n\u00e1t v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng s\u00e2n trong \u0111\u1ea7y hoa c\u1ea9m t\u00fa c\u1ea7u m\u1ecdc trong nh\u1eefng b\u1ed3n n\u1ee9t. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t khu ph\u1ed1 c\u00f3 v\u1ebb \u0111\u1eb9p tr\u00e1ng l\u1ec7 y\u00ean t\u0129nh kh\u00e1c th\u01b0\u1eddng, n\u01a1i m\u1ed7i t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 d\u01b0\u1eddng nh\u01b0 h\u01b0\u1edbng \u0111\u1ebfn m\u1ed9t k\u1ef7 nguy\u00ean \u0111\u00e3 m\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi \u0111\u00e3 phai nh\u1ea1t.<\/p>\n

G\u1ea7n \u0111\u00f3 l\u00e0 Betlemi, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eb7t theo t\u00ean nh\u00e0 th\u1edd th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 18, n\u01a1i c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 c\u00f4ng tr\u00ecnh ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac C\u01a1 \u0111\u1ed1c gi\u00e1o l\u00e2u \u0111\u1eddi nh\u1ea5t trong th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. Nh\u1eefng con \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e1t \u0111\u00e1 cu\u1ed9i ngo\u1eb1n ngo\u00e8o l\u00ean tr\u00ean, \u0111\u1ec3 l\u1ed9 t\u1ea7m nh\u00ecn t\u1eeb tr\u00ean m\u00e1i nh\u00e0 ra th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 v\u00e0 d\u00f2ng s\u00f4ng b\u00ean d\u01b0\u1edbi. V\u00e0o l\u00fac ch\u1ea1ng v\u1ea1ng, \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng trong khu ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0y thay \u0111\u1ed5i v\u1edbi \u0111\u1ed9 ch\u00ednh x\u00e1c c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 h\u00e1t. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 tho\u00e1ng th\u1ea5y tr\u1ebb em ch\u1ea1y nh\u1ea3y gi\u1eefa c\u00e1c c\u1ea7u thang, ch\u00f3 lu\u1ed3n l\u00e1ch qua c\u1ed5ng s\u00e2n v\u00e0 \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng xanh m\u1edd nh\u1ea1t c\u1ee7a tivi chi\u1ebfu qua c\u00e1c \u00f4 k\u00ednh c\u1eaft b\u1eb1ng tay.<\/p>\n

Ph\u1ed1 Chardeni\u2014hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u00e1ch \u0111i\u1ec7u th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t khu v\u1ef1c gi\u1ea3i tr\u00ed v\u1ec1 \u0111\u00eam\u2014l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 t\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u1ea3n. Ngo\u1ea1i th\u1ea5t b\u00f3ng b\u1ea9y v\u00e0 bi\u1ec3n b\u00e1o ng\u0103n n\u1eafp b\u00e1o hi\u1ec7u s\u1ef1 chuy\u1ec3n d\u1ecbch sang ti\u00eau d\u00f9ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c qu\u1ea3n l\u00fd. Tinh th\u1ea7n ph\u00f3ng kho\u00e1ng t\u1eebng g\u1eafn li\u1ec1n v\u1edbi khu v\u1ef1c n\u00e0y c\u1ee7a th\u1ecb tr\u1ea5n ch\u1ec9 c\u00f2n t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i tr\u00ean t\u00ean g\u1ecdi; c\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m \u0111\u1eaft h\u01a1n, th\u1ef1c \u0111\u01a1n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ecbch sang b\u1ed1n th\u1ee9 ti\u1ebfng v\u00e0 t\u00e2m tr\u1ea1ng mang t\u00ednh tr\u00ecnh di\u1ec5n h\u01a1n. Tuy nhi\u00ean, m\u1ed9t v\u00e0i g\u00f3c ph\u1ed1 v\u1eabn ch\u01b0a \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tinh t\u1ebf, ch\u1ed1ng l\u1ea1i s\u1ee9c h\u00fat c\u1ee7a l\u00fd l\u1ebd \u0111\u1ea7u t\u01b0. \u1ede nh\u1eefng n\u01a1i kh\u00e1c, nh\u1eefng con ph\u1ed1 nh\u01b0 Sioni v\u00e0 Shavteli v\u1eabn c\u1ed1 g\u1eafng b\u1ea3o t\u1ed3n m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt t\u1ef1 ph\u00e1t: h\u1ecda s\u0129 b\u00e1n tranh, ch\u01b0\u01a1ng tr\u00ecnh m\u00faa r\u1ed1i ng\u1eabu h\u1ee9ng tr\u01b0\u1edbc th\u00e1p \u0111\u1ed3ng h\u1ed3 nghi\u00eang Rezo Gabriadze v\u00e0 ti\u1ebfng th\u00ec th\u1ea7m khe kh\u1ebd c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi h\u00e0ng x\u00f3m \u0111ang bu\u00f4n chuy\u1ec7n b\u00ean nh\u1eefng c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng th\u1ef1c ph\u1ea9m nh\u1ecf.<\/p>\n

Khi b\u0103ng qua S\u00f4ng Mtkvari b\u1eb1ng C\u1ea7u Metekhi, c\u00e1c khu ph\u1ed1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i t\u00ednh c\u00e1ch. Avlabari, \u1edf b\u1edd ph\u00eda \u0111\u00f4ng, l\u00e0 n\u01a1i c\u00f3 Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd Sameba\u2014c\u00f4ng tr\u00ecnh t\u00f4n gi\u00e1o n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt v\u00e0 g\u00e2y chia r\u1ebd nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a Tbilisi. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng t\u1eeb n\u0103m 1995 \u0111\u1ebfn n\u0103m 2004, nh\u00e0 th\u1edd n\u00e0y cao h\u01a1n c\u1ea3nh quan th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh g\u1ea7n nh\u01b0 l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ebf qu\u1ed1c. M\u00e1i v\u00f2m c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 th\u1edd, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c trao v\u01b0\u01a1ng mi\u1ec7n b\u1eb1ng m\u1ed9t c\u00e2y th\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 ph\u1ee7 v\u00e0ng, cao 105,5 m\u00e9t so v\u1edbi \u0111\u1ec9nh \u0111\u1ed3i, khi\u1ebfn n\u01a1i \u0111\u00e2y tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh nh\u00e0 th\u1edd Ch\u00ednh th\u1ed1ng gi\u00e1o \u0110\u00f4ng ph\u01b0\u01a1ng cao th\u1ee9 ba tr\u00ean th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi. N\u1ed9i th\u1ea5t, v\u1eabn \u0111ang trong qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt, l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t b\u1ee9c tranh gh\u00e9p gi\u1eefa c\u0169 v\u00e0 m\u1edbi: nh\u1eefng b\u1ee9c b\u00edch h\u1ecda truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng \u0111ang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ti\u1ebfn h\u00e0nh, c\u00e1c b\u00e0n th\u1edd kh\u1ea3m \u0111ang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ti\u1ebfn h\u00e0nh v\u00e0 m\u1ed9t b\u1ed1 c\u1ee5c m\u01b0\u1ee3n t\u1eeb thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf nh\u00e0 th\u1edd th\u1eddi trung c\u1ed5 nh\u01b0ng v\u1eabn t\u1ef1 \u00e1p \u0111\u1eb7t m\u00ecnh v\u1edbi chi\u1ec1u d\u1ecdc hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i.<\/p>\n

B\u1ea3n th\u00e2n Avlabari, n\u01a1i t\u1eebng l\u00e0 n\u01a1i sinh s\u1ed1ng c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi Armenia s\u00f4i \u0111\u1ed9ng, mang trong m\u00ecnh s\u1ef1 c\u0103ng th\u1eb3ng c\u00f2n s\u00f3t l\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng thay \u0111\u1ed5i nh\u00e2n kh\u1ea9u h\u1ecdc. Cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ed1 \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y \u00edt \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00f4 \u0111i\u1ec3m h\u01a1n so v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng khu v\u1ef1c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c kh\u00e1ch du l\u1ecbch theo d\u00f5i \u1edf Ph\u1ed1 c\u1ed5, nh\u01b0ng l\u1ea1i ti\u1ebft l\u1ed9 nhi\u1ec1u h\u01a1n. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u00e1n h\u00e0ng rong b\u00e1n tr\u00e1i c\u00e2y t\u1eeb c\u1ed1p xe; nh\u1eefng \u00f4ng gi\u00e0 im l\u1eb7ng h\u00fat thu\u1ed1c tr\u00ean nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc gh\u1ebf d\u00e0i s\u1ee9t m\u1ebb; nh\u1eefng b\u00e0 m\u1eb9 k\u00e9o xe \u0111\u1ea9y tr\u1ebb em tr\u00ean nh\u1eefng v\u1ec9a h\u00e8 g\u1ed3 gh\u1ec1, th\u1ec9nh tho\u1ea3ng d\u1eebng l\u1ea1i \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u00f2 chuy\u1ec7n v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u00e1n h\u00e0ng. \u1ede \u0111\u00e2y, s\u1ef1 pha tr\u1ed9n v\u0103n h\u00f3a c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 c\u0169ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 th\u1ea5y r\u00f5. Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd H\u1ed3i gi\u00e1o Jumah n\u1eb1m kh\u00f4ng xa gi\u00e1o \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng Do Th\u00e1i v\u00e0 Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd Saint George c\u1ee7a Armenia. S\u1ef1 g\u1ea7n g\u0169i c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng kh\u00f4ng gian linh thi\u00eang n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 n\u00f3i l\u00ean t\u00ednh \u0111a d\u1ea1ng trong l\u1ecbch s\u1eed m\u00e0 c\u00f2n n\u00f3i l\u00ean s\u1ef1 mong manh c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 c\u00f9ng t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i - m\u1ed9t ch\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ec1 kh\u1eafc s\u00e2u v\u00e0o k\u00fd \u1ee9c v\u0103n h\u00f3a c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1.<\/p>\n

Vake v\u00e0 Saburtalo, hai trong s\u1ed1 nh\u1eefng qu\u1eadn hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i v\u00e0 gi\u00e0u c\u00f3 h\u01a1n \u1edf ph\u00eda t\u00e2y v\u00e0 ph\u00eda b\u1eafc, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean m\u1ed9t kh\u00eda c\u1ea1nh kh\u00e1c c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1eb7c \u0111i\u1ec3m Tbilisi. Nh\u1eefng \u0111\u1ea1i l\u1ed9 r\u1ed9ng, tr\u01b0\u1eddng h\u1ecdc qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf v\u00e0 c\u00e1c khu chung c\u01b0 m\u1edbi x\u00e2y b\u00e1o hi\u1ec7u s\u1ef1 ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n. \u1ede Vake, nh\u1ecbp s\u1ed1ng ch\u1eadm l\u1ea1i. C\u00e1c qu\u00e1n c\u00e0 ph\u00ea v\u1edbi n\u1ed9i th\u1ea5t t\u1ed1i gi\u1ea3n v\u00e0 ch\u1ed7 ng\u1ed3i ngo\u00e0i tr\u1eddi n\u1eb1m d\u1ecdc c\u00e1c con ph\u1ed1 nh\u01b0 \u0110\u1ea1i l\u1ed9 Chavchavadze. C\u00f4ng vi\u00ean Vake, m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng kh\u00f4ng gian xanh l\u1edbn nh\u1ea5t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, mang \u0111\u1ebfn s\u1ef1 th\u01b0 gi\u00e3n hi\u1ebfm c\u00f3. Nh\u1eefng h\u00e0ng c\u00e2y cao l\u00e0m d\u1ecbu \u0111i l\u01b0\u1edbi \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng, v\u00e0 c\u00e1c gia \u0111\u00ecnh t\u1ee5 t\u1eadp g\u1ea7n \u0111\u00e0i phun n\u01b0\u1edbc trong khi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi tr\u1ebb tu\u1ed5i chuy\u00ean nghi\u1ec7p ch\u1ea1y b\u1ed9 d\u1ecdc theo c\u00e1c r\u00eca r\u00e2m m\u00e1t c\u1ee7a c\u00f4ng vi\u00ean. Qu\u1eadn n\u00e0y c\u0169ng l\u00e0 n\u01a1i c\u00f3 \u0110\u1ea1i h\u1ecdc Nh\u00e0 n\u01b0\u1edbc Tbilisi - \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00e0nh l\u1eadp v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1918 - m\u1ed9t t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c t\u1eeb l\u00e2u \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1eddi s\u1ed1ng tr\u00ed th\u1ee9c Gruzia.<\/p>\n

Saburtalo, c\u00f3 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf th\u1ef1c d\u1ee5ng h\u01a1n, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh b\u1edfi c\u00e1c t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 chung c\u01b0 th\u1eddi Li\u00ean X\u00f4 v\u00e0 ch\u00f2m sao t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 v\u0103n ph\u00f2ng ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n. Nh\u01b0ng ngay c\u1ea3 \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y, qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 v\u1eabn hi\u1ec7n h\u1eefu. C\u00e1c qu\u1ea7y h\u00e0ng \u1edf ch\u1ee3 t\u1eadp trung g\u1ea7n l\u1ed1i ra t\u00e0u \u0111i\u1ec7n ng\u1ea7m, b\u00e1n m\u1ecdi th\u1ee9 t\u1eeb \u0111\u1ed3 kim kh\u00ed \u0111\u1ebfn th\u1ea3o m\u1ed9c. Graffiti b\u1eb1ng c\u1ea3 ch\u1eef c\u00e1i Gruzia v\u00e0 ch\u1eef c\u00e1i Cyrillic tr\u00ean t\u01b0\u1eddng, b\u1eb1ng ch\u1ee9ng c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 \u0111\u00e0m ph\u00e1n v\u0103n h\u00f3a v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 chung s\u1ed1ng ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef. C\u1ea7n c\u1ea9u x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng v\u01b0\u01a1n l\u00ean tr\u00ean c\u00e1c khu chung c\u01b0 c\u0169, h\u00ecnh b\u00f3ng c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang v\u1eeba \u0111\u1ea7y hy v\u1ecdng v\u1eeba x\u00e2m ph\u1ea1m.<\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u th\u01b0\u1eddng nh\u1eadt n\u00e0y\u2014l\u1ec1 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u1ee9t n\u1ebb v\u00ec b\u0103ng gi\u00e1 v\u00e0 b\u01b0\u1edbc ch\u00e2n, c\u00e1p xe \u0111i\u1ec7n treo l\u1ee7ng l\u1eb3ng kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 ch\u1ee9c n\u0103ng r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng, m\u1eb7t ti\u1ec1n c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c chuy\u1ec3n \u0111\u1ed5i th\u00e0nh qu\u00e1n c\u00e0 ph\u00ea ho\u1eb7c c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng kim kh\u00ed\u2014t\u1ea1o n\u00ean m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 nghi l\u1ec5 trong v\u1ebb \u0111\u1eb9p c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ebfn Tbilisi \u0111\u1ec3 b\u1ecb \u1ea5n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta \u0111\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u1eafc nh\u1edf r\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 v\u1eabn c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng \u0111\u1ec3 sinh s\u1ed1ng, ngay c\u1ea3 khi b\u1ecb s\u1eddn r\u00e1ch.<\/p>\n

Nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u c\u1ee7a cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng h\u1eb1ng ng\u00e0y dao \u0111\u1ed9ng gi\u1eefa ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a th\u1ef1c d\u1ee5ng ch\u1eadm r\u00e3i v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng \u0111\u1ee3t b\u00f9ng n\u1ed5 d\u1eef d\u1ed9i b\u1ea5t ng\u1edd. Bu\u1ed5i s\u00e1ng \u0111i l\u00e0m r\u1ea5t nhanh, \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ed1 \u1ed3n \u00e0o v\u1edbi ti\u1ebfng c\u1eeda marshrutka \u0111\u00f3ng s\u1ea7m l\u1ea1i v\u00e0 ti\u1ebfng th\u00eca kim lo\u1ea1i khu\u1ea5y c\u00e0 ph\u00ea trong c\u1ed1c th\u1ee7y tinh. Bu\u1ed5i tr\u01b0a mang \u0111\u1ebfn s\u1ef1 t\u0129nh l\u1eb7ng, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 trong c\u00e1i n\u00f3ng m\u00f9a h\u00e8, khi c\u1eeda ch\u1edbp \u1edf m\u1eb7t ti\u1ec1n h\u1ea1 xu\u1ed1ng v\u00e0 c\u00e1c cu\u1ed9c tr\u00f2 chuy\u1ec7n k\u00e9o d\u00e0i h\u01a1n. Bu\u1ed5i t\u1ed1i l\u1ea1i tr\u1edf n\u00ean s\u00f4i \u0111\u1ed9ng. C\u00e1c gia \u0111\u00ecnh c\u00f9ng nhau \u0111i d\u1ea1o, tr\u1ebb em \u0111i h\u1ecdc ch\u1ea1y ra ch\u1ea1y v\u00e0o s\u00e2n, v\u00e0 c\u00e1c c\u1eb7p \u0111\u00f4i d\u1ef1a v\u00e0o lan can \u0111\u1ec3 ng\u1eafm d\u00f2ng s\u00f4ng t\u1ed1i d\u1ea7n theo b\u1ea7u tr\u1eddi.<\/p>\n

Quan s\u00e1t Tbilisi m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch k\u1ef9 l\u01b0\u1ee1ng l\u00e0 ch\u1ea5p nh\u1eadn nh\u1eefng m\u00e2u thu\u1eabn c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng m\u1eb7t ti\u1ec1n nh\u1ee3t nh\u1ea1t v\u00e0 \u00e1nh \u0111\u00e8n neon ch\u00f3i l\u00f3a. S\u1ef1 im l\u1eb7ng s\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ea1o b\u00ean trong nh\u1eefng nh\u00e0 nguy\u1ec7n c\u1ed5 k\u00ednh v\u00e0 nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u techno ph\u00e1t ra t\u1eeb c\u00e1c c\u00e2u l\u1ea1c b\u1ed9 ng\u1ea7m. Th\u01a1 ca \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c kh\u1eafc tr\u00ean nh\u1eefng ban c\u00f4ng g\u1ed7 v\u00e0 c\u00e1c b\u1ed9 m\u00e1y quan li\u00eau v\u1eabn th\u1edd \u01a1 v\u1edbi m\u00f4i tr\u01b0\u1eddng xung quanh. Nh\u01b0ng b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch n\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3, n\u00f3 v\u1eabn g\u1eafn k\u1ebft. Kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t d\u1ef1 \u00e1n th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 hay m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfn th\u1eafng kinh t\u1ebf, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t n\u01a1i s\u1ed1ng v\u00e0 \u0111ang s\u1ed1ng.<\/p>\n

Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng t\u1ef1 gi\u1edbi thi\u1ec7u m\u00ecnh l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 \u0111\u00e3 ho\u00e0n thi\u1ec7n. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 \u0111ang trong qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh di\u1ec5n t\u1eadp, li\u00ean t\u1ee5c b\u1ecb b\u1eaft g\u1eb7p trong qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh h\u00ecnh th\u00e0nh.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u00e1 thi\u00eang v\u00e0 b\u00f3ng t\u1ed1i\u2014Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd, Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd l\u1edbn v\u00e0 Ki\u1ebfn tr\u00fac c\u1ee7a \u0110\u1ee9c tin<\/h2>\n

Ki\u1ebfn tr\u00fac t\u00f4n gi\u00e1o c\u1ee7a Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 v\u1eadt trang tr\u00ed; m\u00e0 c\u00f2n l\u00e0 c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ea1m kh\u1eafc b\u1eb1ng \u0111\u00e1 tuf, g\u1ea1ch v\u00e0 \u0111\u00e1 bazan, c\u00e1c t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 linh thi\u00eang c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n s\u1ef1 \u0111an xen v\u0103n h\u00f3a, s\u1ef1 kh\u00e1ng c\u1ef1 th\u1ea7n h\u1ecdc v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ed5i m\u1edbi ph\u1ee5ng v\u1ee5 qua nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ebf k\u1ef7. Ch\u00fang kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 minh ch\u1ee9ng cho \u0111\u1ee9c tin m\u00e0 c\u00f2n cho \u00fd th\u1ee9c b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc \u0111ang ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 - m\u1ed9t b\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ed3 t\u00e2m linh ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p nh\u01b0 ranh gi\u1edbi thay \u0111\u1ed5i c\u1ee7a Tbilisi.<\/p>\n

Trung t\u00e2m c\u1ee7a nghi l\u1ec5 ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac n\u00e0y l\u00e0 Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd Sameba, Ch\u00faa Ba Ng\u00f4i. V\u01b0\u01a1n l\u00ean t\u1eeb \u0110\u1ed3i Elia \u1edf Avlabari, nh\u00e0 th\u1edd n\u00e0y v\u1eeba mang t\u00ednh t\u00f4n k\u00ednh v\u1eeba mang t\u00ednh m\u00e2u thu\u1eabn. Ho\u00e0n th\u00e0nh v\u00e0o n\u0103m 2004, c\u00e2y th\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 m\u1ea1 v\u00e0ng c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 th\u1edd l\u1ea5p l\u00e1nh r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng t\u1eeb h\u1ea7u nh\u01b0 m\u1ecdi \u0111i\u1ec3m trong th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, m\u1ed9t tuy\u00ean b\u1ed1 t\u00e1o b\u1ea1o b\u1eb1ng l\u00e1 v\u00e0ng v\u00e0 \u0111\u00e1 v\u00f4i. V\u1edbi chi\u1ec1u cao h\u01a1n 105 m\u00e9t, nh\u00e0 th\u1edd kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 n\u01a1i th\u1edd c\u00fang m\u00e0 c\u00f2n l\u00e0 c\u1ea3nh t\u01b0\u1ee3ng kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh - s\u1ef1 k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p c\u1ee7a nhi\u1ec1u h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c t\u00f4n gi\u00e1o th\u1eddi trung c\u1ed5 c\u1ee7a Gruzia theo tr\u00ed t\u01b0\u1edfng t\u01b0\u1ee3ng h\u1eadu X\u00f4 Vi\u1ebft. C\u00e1c nh\u00e0 ph\u00ea b\u00ecnh th\u01b0\u1eddng than th\u1edf v\u1ec1 quy m\u00f4 v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 khoa tr\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 th\u1edd; nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi kh\u00e1c l\u1ea1i th\u1ea5y \u1edf \u0111\u00f3 s\u1ef1 ph\u1ee5c h\u1ed3i m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd l\u00f2ng tin c\u1ee7a qu\u1ed1c gia. Ch\u00edn nh\u00e0 nguy\u1ec7n c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 th\u1edd - m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 n\u1eb1m d\u01b0\u1edbi l\u00f2ng \u0111\u1ea5t - \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ebdo b\u1eb1ng \u0111\u00e1, v\u1edbi n\u1ed9i th\u1ea5t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c chi\u1ebfu s\u00e1ng b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c b\u1ee9c tranh t\u01b0\u1eddng v\u1eabn ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u00e1c ngh\u1ec7 s\u0129 Gruzia gi\u00e1m s\u00e1t c\u1ea9n th\u1eadn.<\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng c\u00f4ng tr\u00ecnh ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac c\u1ed5 h\u01a1n, y\u00ean t\u0129nh h\u01a1n n\u1eb1m \u1edf nh\u1eefng n\u01a1i kh\u00e1c trong th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd Anchiskhati, c\u00f3 ni\u00ean \u0111\u1ea1i t\u1eeb th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 th\u1ee9 6, l\u00e0 nh\u00e0 th\u1edd l\u00e2u \u0111\u1eddi nh\u1ea5t c\u00f2n t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i \u1edf Tbilisi. N\u1eb1m ngay ph\u00eda b\u1eafc S\u00f4ng Mtkvari, g\u1ea7n Ph\u1ed1 Shavteli, nh\u00e0 th\u1edd n\u00e0y v\u1eabn gi\u1eef \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c v\u1ebb uy nghi\u00eam gi\u1ea3n d\u1ecb, kh\u00f4ng trang tr\u00ed. \u0110\u00e1 tuf m\u00e0u v\u00e0ng \u0111\u00e3 c\u0169 \u0111i m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch duy\u00ean d\u00e1ng, v\u00e0 b\u00ean trong, t\u1ed1i t\u0103m v\u00e0 nh\u1ecf b\u00e9, mang l\u1ea1i c\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c gi\u1ed1ng m\u1ed9t kh\u00f4ng gian c\u1ea7u nguy\u1ec7n ri\u00eang t\u01b0 h\u01a1n l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ng\u00f4i nh\u00e0 th\u1edd l\u1edbn. M\u1eb7c d\u00f9 c\u00f3 k\u00edch th\u01b0\u1edbc khi\u00eam t\u1ed1n, nh\u01b0ng n\u01a1i n\u00e0y v\u1eabn ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng - m\u1ed9t kh\u00f4ng gian cho \u00e1nh n\u1ebfn v\u00e0 th\u00e1nh ca, kh\u00f4ng b\u1ecb ph\u00e1 v\u1ee1 b\u1edfi nhu c\u1ea7u c\u1ee7a kh\u00e1ch du l\u1ecbch.<\/p>\n

Xa h\u01a1n tr\u00ean \u0111\u1ed3i, Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd Sioni v\u1eabn gi\u1eef \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3 t\u1ea7m quan tr\u1ecdng v\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t l\u1ecbch s\u1eed v\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng. Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd n\u00e0y t\u1eebng l\u00e0 nh\u00e0 th\u1edd Ch\u00ednh th\u1ed1ng gi\u00e1o ch\u00ednh c\u1ee7a Gruzia trong nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 v\u00e0 l\u00e0 n\u01a1i l\u01b0u gi\u1eef c\u00e2y th\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00f4n k\u00ednh c\u1ee7a Th\u00e1nh Nino, ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c cho l\u00e0 \u0111\u00e3 mang C\u01a1 \u0111\u1ed1c gi\u00e1o \u0111\u1ebfn Gruzia v\u00e0o th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 th\u1ee9 4. Nhi\u1ec1u l\u1ea7n b\u1ecb qu\u00e2n x\u00e2m l\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u00e1 h\u1ee7y v\u00e0 x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng l\u1ea1i, h\u00ecnh d\u00e1ng hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 th\u1edd mang d\u1ea5u \u1ea5n ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac t\u1eeb th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 13 \u0111\u1ebfn th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 19. Nh\u1eefng b\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u00e1 n\u1eb7ng n\u1ec1 c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 th\u1edd gi\u1eef v\u1eefng s\u1ee9c n\u1eb7ng c\u1ee7a l\u1ecbch s\u1eed n\u00e0y, v\u00e0 s\u00e2n trong c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 th\u1edd th\u01b0\u1eddng ch\u1eadt k\u00edn nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi h\u00e0nh h\u01b0\u01a1ng l\u1eb7ng l\u1ebd, gi\u00e1o d\u00e2n l\u1edbn tu\u1ed5i v\u00e0 tr\u1ebb em t\u00f2 m\u00f2 l\u1ea7n theo nh\u1eefng ng\u00f3n tay c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh d\u1ecdc theo c\u00e1c b\u1ee9c ch\u1ea1m kh\u1eafc tr\u00ean t\u01b0\u1eddng.<\/p>\n

Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd Metekhi, n\u1eb1m tr\u00ean m\u1ed9t v\u00e1ch \u0111\u00e1 nh\u00ecn ra s\u00f4ng, neo gi\u1eef m\u1ed9t c\u1ea3nh t\u01b0\u1ee3ng mang t\u00ednh s\u00e2n kh\u1ea5u h\u01a1n. V\u1ecb tr\u00ed c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 th\u1edd\u2014ngay ph\u00eda tr\u00ean s\u00e2n kh\u1ea5u \u0111\u00e1 c\u1ee7a C\u1ea7u Metekhi\u2014khi\u1ebfn nh\u00e0 th\u1edd tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng \u0111\u1ecba danh \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ee5p \u1ea3nh nhi\u1ec1u nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng l\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean v\u00e0o th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 13 d\u01b0\u1edbi th\u1eddi Vua Demetre II, nh\u00e0 th\u1edd \u0111\u00e3 b\u1ecb h\u01b0 h\u1ea1i, x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng l\u1ea1i, t\u00e1i s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng v\u00e0 th\u1eadm ch\u00ed \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng l\u00e0m nh\u00e0 t\u00f9 d\u01b0\u1edbi s\u1ef1 cai tr\u1ecb c\u1ee7a Nga. Thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 th\u1edd kh\u00f4ng theo t\u00ednh \u0111\u1ed1i x\u1ee9ng: m\u1ed9t m\u1eb7t b\u1eb1ng h\u00ecnh ch\u1eef th\u1eadp h\u00ecnh v\u00f2m, nh\u01b0ng b\u00f9 l\u1ea1i theo t\u1ef7 l\u1ec7. B\u00ean trong, kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed v\u1eabn m\u00e1t m\u1ebb v\u00e0 kh\u00f3i h\u01b0\u01a1ng, v\u00e0 c\u00e1c bu\u1ed5i l\u1ec5 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ti\u1ebfn h\u00e0nh theo nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u d\u01b0\u1eddng nh\u01b0 kh\u00f4ng thay \u0111\u1ed5i theo th\u1eddi gian hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i.<\/p>\n

S\u1ef1 \u0111a d\u1ea1ng t\u00f4n gi\u00e1o c\u1ee7a Tbilisi v\u01b0\u1ee3t xa truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng Ch\u00ednh th\u1ed1ng gi\u00e1o Gruzia. Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd Armenia Saint George, t\u1ecda l\u1ea1c t\u1ea1i trung t\u00e2m khu ph\u1ed1 Armenia c\u1ed5 g\u1ea7n Qu\u1ea3ng tr\u01b0\u1eddng Meydan, l\u00e0 l\u1eddi nh\u1eafc nh\u1edf s\u00e2u s\u1eafc v\u1ec1 chi\u1ec1u s\u00e2u l\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1251 v\u00e0 v\u1eabn \u0111ang ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng, n\u01a1i \u0111\u00e2y c\u00f3 l\u0103ng m\u1ed9 c\u1ee7a Sayat-Nova, m\u1ed9t thi s\u0129 n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 18 c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng b\u00e0i h\u00e1t v\u01b0\u1ee3t qua ranh gi\u1edbi ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef v\u00e0 v\u0103n h\u00f3a. G\u1ea7n \u0111\u00f3, Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd Norashen - b\u1ecb \u0111\u00f3ng v\u00e1n v\u00e0 tranh ch\u1ea5p ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb - \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u m\u1ed9t di s\u1ea3n b\u1ecb chia c\u1eaft nhi\u1ec1u h\u01a1n. C\u00f4ng tr\u00ecnh b\u1eb1ng \u0111\u00e1 t\u1eeb gi\u1eefa th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 15 c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 th\u1edd b\u1ecb t\u1ed5n th\u01b0\u01a1ng do s\u1ef1 l\u00e3ng qu\u00ean v\u00e0 tranh ch\u1ea5p ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb. Khu ph\u1ed1 xung quanh v\u1eabn c\u00f2n d\u00e0y \u0111\u1eb7c nh\u1eefng c\u00e2u h\u1ecfi ch\u01b0a \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u1ea3i \u0111\u00e1p v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 g\u1eafn b\u00f3 v\u00e0 th\u1eeba k\u1ebf, nh\u1eefng c\u00e2u h\u1ecfi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c kh\u1eafc tr\u00ean nh\u1eefng kh\u1ed1i \u0111\u00e1 \u0111\u1ed5 n\u00e1t.<\/p>\n

Tr\u00ean s\u01b0\u1eddn ph\u00eda \u0111\u00f4ng c\u1ee7a Ph\u1ed1 c\u1ed5 l\u00e0 Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd H\u1ed3i gi\u00e1o Juma, m\u1ed9t hi\u1ec7n th\u00e2n ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac hi\u1ebfm hoi c\u1ee7a ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng t\u00f4n gi\u00e1o chung. Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 c\u1ea3 ng\u01b0\u1eddi H\u1ed3i gi\u00e1o Sunni v\u00e0 Shia\u2014m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 s\u1eafp x\u1ebfp kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn ngay c\u1ea3 tr\u00ean to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u. C\u1ea5u tr\u00fac g\u1ea1ch khi\u00eam t\u1ed1n, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng l\u1ea1i v\u00e0o th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 19, m\u1edf ra m\u1ed9t con \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng d\u1ed1c d\u1eabn \u0111\u1ebfn V\u01b0\u1eddn B\u00e1ch th\u1ea3o. Gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 ph\u1ea7n l\u1edbn \u0111\u1eddi s\u1ed1ng t\u00e2m linh c\u1ee7a Tbilisi, nh\u00e0 th\u1edd H\u1ed3i gi\u00e1o t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i trong s\u1ef1 th\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c l\u1eb7ng l\u1ebd c\u1ee7a t\u00ednh \u0111\u1ed3ng nh\u1ea5t, ng\u1ecdn th\u00e1p c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 nh\u00ecn th\u1ea5y nh\u01b0ng kh\u00f4ng ph\u00f4 tr\u01b0\u01a1ng.<\/p>\n

Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd Do Th\u00e1i l\u1edbn tr\u00ean ph\u1ed1 Kote Abkhazi, ho\u00e0n th\u00e0nh n\u0103m 1910, th\u00eam m\u1ed9t l\u1edbp n\u1eefa v\u00e0o b\u1ee9c tranh kh\u1ea3m t\u00f4n gi\u00e1o. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 n\u01a1i th\u1edd c\u00fang \u0111ang ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng c\u1ee7a c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng Do Th\u00e1i \u0111ang suy y\u1ebfu nh\u01b0ng b\u1ec1n b\u1ec9 c\u1ee7a Tbilisi, nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi trong s\u1ed1 h\u1ecd c\u00f3 ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c t\u1eeb Georgia c\u00e1ch \u0111\u00e2y h\u01a1n 2.000 n\u0103m. Nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc gh\u1ebf d\u00e0i b\u1eb1ng g\u1ed7 s\u1eabm m\u00e0u v\u00e0 s\u00e0n nh\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh b\u00f3ng c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 th\u1edd cho th\u1ea5y s\u1ef1 li\u00ean t\u1ee5c. Trong khi d\u00e2n s\u1ed1 Do Th\u00e1i c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 \u0111\u00e3 gi\u1ea3m m\u1ea1nh, t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 v\u1eabn ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u00e0 trong nh\u1eefng ng\u00e0y l\u1ec5 l\u1edbn, n\u01a1i \u0111\u00e2y ch\u1eadt k\u00edn c\u00e1c gia \u0111\u00ecnh, sinh vi\u00ean v\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi l\u1edbn tu\u1ed5i h\u00e1t th\u00e1nh ca c\u1ed5 x\u01b0a b\u1eb1ng ti\u1ebfng Do Th\u00e1i pha tr\u1ed9n v\u1edbi ti\u1ebfng Gruzia.<\/p>\n

Kh\u00f4ng xa Qu\u1ea3ng tr\u01b0\u1eddng T\u1ef1 do l\u00e0 Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd C\u00f4ng gi\u00e1o Ascension c\u1ee7a \u0110\u1ee9c M\u1eb9 \u0110\u1ed3ng Trinh Mary, m\u1ed9t t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 gi\u1ea3 Gothic \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c trang tr\u00ed b\u1eb1ng k\u00ednh m\u00e0u v\u00e0 c\u00e1c \u0111i\u1ec3m nh\u1ea5n Baroque \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ti\u1ebft ch\u1ebf. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng v\u00e0o th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 13 v\u00e0 \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thay \u0111\u1ed5i nhi\u1ec1u l\u1ea7n k\u1ec3 t\u1eeb \u0111\u00f3, n\u00f3 ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh c\u1ea3 tham v\u1ecdng ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac v\u00e0 ph\u1ea1m vi l\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a Gi\u00e1o h\u1ed9i C\u00f4ng gi\u00e1o La M\u00e3 v\u00e0o v\u00f9ng Kavkaz. Ng\u1ecdn th\u00e1p c\u1ee7a n\u00f3, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 khi\u00eam t\u1ed1n theo ti\u00eau chu\u1ea9n ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y, t\u1ea1o ra m\u1ed9t h\u00ecnh b\u00f3ng s\u1eafc n\u00e9t tr\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ch\u00e2n tr\u1eddi m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i h\u01a1n c\u1ee7a m\u00e1i v\u00f2m v\u00e0 m\u00e1i ng\u00f3i.<\/p>\n

Tr\u00ean kh\u1eafp th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, nh\u1eefng nh\u00e0 nguy\u1ec7n v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ec1n th\u1edd nh\u1ecf h\u01a1n, th\u01b0\u1eddng kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 t\u00ean, r\u1ea3i r\u00e1c kh\u1eafp c\u00e1c khu d\u00e2n c\u01b0. Ch\u00fang th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c g\u1eafn li\u1ec1n v\u1edbi nh\u00e0 \u1edf gia \u0111\u00ecnh ho\u1eb7c \u1ea9n m\u00ecnh trong c\u00e1c b\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 c\u0169. Ch\u00fang kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c li\u1ec7t k\u00ea trong s\u00e1ch h\u01b0\u1edbng d\u1eabn, c\u0169ng kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c n\u00eau b\u1eadt trong c\u00e1c thu\u1eadt ng\u1eef v\u0103n h\u00f3a. Tuy nhi\u00ean, ch\u00fang v\u1eabn \u0111\u00f3ng vai tr\u00f2 quan tr\u1ecdng \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi \u0111\u1ecba h\u00ecnh t\u00f4n gi\u00e1o s\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ed9ng c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111i ngang qua m\u1ed9t kh\u00f4ng gian nh\u01b0 v\u1eady m\u1ed7i ng\u00e0y v\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng bao gi\u1edd \u0111\u1ec3 \u00fd \u0111\u1ebfn n\u00f3 cho \u0111\u1ebfn ng\u00e0y m\u1ed9t ng\u1ecdn n\u1ebfn ch\u00e1y b\u00ean trong.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ec1n th\u1edd c\u00e1c c\u00f4ng tr\u00ecnh t\u00f4n gi\u00e1o c\u1ee7a Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 cho th\u1ea5y l\u00f2ng m\u1ed9 \u0111\u1ea1o m\u00e0 c\u00f2n cho th\u1ea5y s\u1ef1 b\u1ec1n b\u1ec9 c\u1ee7a ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a \u0111a nguy\u00ean. Tr\u1ea3i qua nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ebf ch\u1ebf, xung \u0111\u1ed9t v\u00e0 c\u1ea3i c\u00e1ch, th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 \u0111\u00e3 nu\u00f4i d\u01b0\u1ee1ng nhi\u1ec1u t\u00edn ng\u01b0\u1ee1ng, th\u01b0\u1eddng \u1edf g\u1ea7n nhau, \u0111\u00f4i khi xung \u0111\u1ed9t, nh\u01b0ng hi\u1ebfm khi b\u1ecb x\u00f3a b\u1ecf. S\u1ef1 \u0111a d\u1ea1ng v\u1ec1 ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 trang tr\u00ed; m\u00e0 l\u00e0 c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac. N\u00f3 ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh t\u00ednh \u0111\u1eb7c th\u00f9 chi ti\u1ebft c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ee9c tin gi\u1eefa c\u00e1c c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng, tri\u1ec1u \u0111\u1ea1i v\u00e0 c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng di c\u01b0. M\u1ed7i m\u00e1i v\u00f2m, th\u00e1p v\u00e0 th\u00e1p chu\u00f4ng ph\u00e1c h\u1ecda m\u1ed9t nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u kh\u00e1c nhau c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi gian thi\u00eang li\u00eang, v\u00e0 m\u1ed7i nh\u00e0 nguy\u1ec7n trong s\u00e2n \u0111\u1ec1u th\u00ec th\u1ea7m phi\u00ean b\u1ea3n \u00e2n s\u1ee7ng ri\u00eang c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh.<\/p>\n

\u0110i b\u1ed9 gi\u1eefa nh\u1eefng t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 n\u00e0y l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ecdc m\u1ed9t v\u0103n b\u1ea3n kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c vi\u1ebft b\u1eb1ng l\u1eddi m\u00e0 b\u1eb1ng \u0111\u00e1 v\u00e0 nghi l\u1ec5. Ki\u1ebfn tr\u00fac thi\u00eang li\u00eang c\u1ee7a Tbilisi t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t t\u1eadp h\u1ee3p c\u00e1c di t\u00edch, m\u00e0 c\u00f2n l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t t\u1eadp h\u1ee3p c\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m s\u1ed1ng\u2014v\u1eabn c\u00f2n th\u1edf, v\u1eabn c\u00f2n tranh c\u00e3i, v\u1eabn c\u00f2n s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ea5t, N\u01b0\u1edbc, Nhi\u1ec7t\u2014T\u1eafm L\u01b0u Hu\u1ef3nh v\u00e0 K\u00fd \u1ee8c V\u1eadt L\u00fd v\u1ec1 \u0110\u1ecba \u0110i\u1ec3m<\/h2>\n

N\u1ec1n t\u1ea3ng c\u1ee7a Tbilisi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eb7t ra kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 b\u1edfi \u00fd ch\u00ed ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb hay nhu c\u1ea7u \u0111\u1ecba l\u00fd, m\u00e0 c\u00f2n b\u1edfi s\u1ee9c h\u00fat c\u1ee7a n\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u1ecba nhi\u1ec7t. C\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n v\u1ec1 ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 - ch\u00fa chim tr\u0129 trong truy\u1ec1n thuy\u1ebft c\u1ee7a Vua Vakhtang r\u01a1i xu\u1ed1ng m\u1ed9t con su\u1ed1i b\u1ed1c h\u01a1i - g\u1eafn k\u1ebft \u0111\u1ecba l\u00fd v\u1eadt l\u00fd c\u1ee7a Tbilisi v\u1edbi cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng si\u00eau h\u00ecnh c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. S\u1ef1 h\u1ee3p l\u01b0u c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ea5t v\u00e0 nhi\u1ec7t n\u00e0y v\u1eabn s\u00f4i s\u1ee5c, theo ngh\u0129a \u0111en, b\u00ean d\u01b0\u1edbi nh\u1eefng khu ph\u1ed1 c\u1ed5 nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1.<\/p>\n

C\u00e1c b\u1ed3n t\u1eafm l\u01b0u hu\u1ef3nh c\u1ee7a Abanotubani, n\u1eb1m g\u1ea7n con s\u00f4ng \u1edf ph\u00eda nam C\u1ea7u Metekhi, v\u1eabn l\u00e0 trung t\u00e2m b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. B\u1ea3n th\u00e2n t\u00ean c\u1ee7a qu\u1eadn\u2014b\u1eaft ngu\u1ed3n t\u1eeb abano, ti\u1ebfng Gruzia c\u00f3 ngh\u0129a l\u00e0 "b\u1ed3n t\u1eafm"\u2014ph\u1ea3n b\u1ed9i ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c th\u1ee7y nhi\u1ec7t c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. Nh\u1eefng m\u00e1i v\u00f2m b\u1eb1ng g\u1ea1ch m\u00e0u be cao h\u01a1n m\u1eb7t \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1ed9t ch\u00fat, c\u00f3 h\u00ecnh d\u1ea1ng kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 nh\u1ea7m l\u1eabn: tr\u00f2n, th\u1ea5p v\u00e0 x\u1ed1p theo th\u1eddi gian. B\u00ean d\u01b0\u1edbi ch\u00fang, m\u00f9i kho\u00e1ng ch\u1ea5t v\u00e0 \u0111\u00e1 lan t\u1ecfa, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c mang theo b\u1edfi h\u01a1i n\u01b0\u1edbc kh\u00f4ng bao gi\u1edd ph\u00e2n t\u00e1n ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n.<\/p>\n

Trong nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ebf k\u1ef7, nh\u1eefng ph\u00f2ng t\u1eafm n\u00e0y v\u1eeba l\u00e0 nghi l\u1ec5 thanh t\u1ea9y v\u1eeba l\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng gian x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i. Ch\u00fang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u00e1c v\u1ecb vua v\u00e0 nh\u00e0 th\u01a1, th\u01b0\u01a1ng nh\u00e2n v\u00e0 l\u1eef kh\u00e1ch lui t\u1edbi. Ch\u00fang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u1eafc \u0111\u1ebfn trong c\u00e1c b\u1ea3n th\u1ea3o Ba T\u01b0 v\u00e0 h\u1ed3i k\u00fd c\u1ee7a Nga. Alexandre Dumas \u0111\u00e3 m\u00f4 t\u1ea3 chuy\u1ebfn vi\u1ebfng th\u0103m c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh v\u00e0o th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 19 v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 say m\u00ea v\u00e0 lo l\u1eafng ngang nhau. \u1ede \u0111\u00e2y, h\u00e0nh \u0111\u1ed9ng t\u1eafm r\u1eeda tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh nghi l\u1ec5 c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng\u2014m\u1ed9t cu\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e0m ph\u00e1n gi\u1eefa s\u1ef1 ri\u00eang t\u01b0 v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 ph\u01a1i b\u00e0y, nhi\u1ec7t \u0111\u1ed9 v\u00e0 k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u.<\/p>\n

N\u01b0\u1edbc, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111un n\u00f3ng t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean v\u00e0 gi\u00e0u hydro sunfua, ch\u1ea3y v\u00e0o c\u00e1c ph\u00f2ng l\u00e1t g\u1ea1ch n\u01a1i kh\u00e1ch h\u00e0ng ng\u1ed3i, ng\u00e2m m\u00ecnh v\u00e0 k\u1ef3 c\u1ecd. H\u1ea7u h\u1ebft c\u00e1c ph\u00f2ng t\u1eafm \u0111\u1ec1u c\u00f3 c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac t\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1ef1: ph\u00f2ng ri\u00eang cho thu\u00ea, m\u1ed7i ph\u00f2ng \u0111\u1ec1u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c trang b\u1ecb m\u1ed9t b\u1ed3n \u0111\u00e1, m\u1ed9t b\u1ec7 \u0111\u00e1 c\u1ea9m th\u1ea1ch v\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ph\u00f2ng thay \u0111\u1ed3 nh\u1ecf. M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 ph\u00f2ng cung c\u1ea5p d\u1ecbch v\u1ee5 m\u00e1t-xa, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u00f4 t\u1ea3 ch\u00ednh x\u00e1c h\u01a1n l\u00e0 t\u1ea9y t\u1ebf b\u00e0o ch\u1ebft k\u1ef9 l\u01b0\u1ee1ng, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ef1c hi\u1ec7n v\u1edbi hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 nhanh ch\u00f3ng c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c nghi l\u1ec5 c\u0169. Nh\u1eefng ph\u00f2ng kh\u00e1c duy tr\u00ec c\u00e1c khu v\u1ef1c c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng n\u01a1i nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi l\u1ea1 c\u00f9ng nhau chia s\u1ebb m\u1ed9t h\u1ed3 n\u01b0\u1edbc n\u00f3ng trong im l\u1eb7ng ho\u1eb7c tr\u00f2 chuy\u1ec7n phi\u1ebfm, ranh gi\u1edbi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m d\u1ecbu \u0111i b\u1edfi h\u01a1i n\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 th\u1eddi gian.<\/p>\n

C\u00e1c ph\u00f2ng t\u1eafm c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u \u0111\u1eb7c \u0111i\u1ec3m kh\u00e1c nhau. M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh b\u00f3ng, ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm b\u1ea7u kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 spa; m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 kh\u00e1c v\u1eabn c\u0169 k\u1ef9 v\u00e0 nguy\u00ean s\u01a1, kh\u00f4ng thay \u0111\u1ed5i v\u1ec1 b\u1ea3n ch\u1ea5t qua nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ebf h\u1ec7. Ph\u00f2ng t\u1eafm s\u1ed1 5 l\u00e0 ph\u00f2ng t\u1eafm c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng th\u1ef1c s\u1ef1 cu\u1ed1i c\u00f9ng\u2014gi\u00e1 c\u1ea3 ph\u1ea3i ch\u0103ng, gi\u1ea3n d\u1ecb v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng t\u1ed1t. Khu v\u1ef1c d\u00e0nh cho nam gi\u1edbi v\u1eabn gi\u1eef \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u ti\u1ec7n d\u1ee5ng: ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta v\u00e0o, t\u1eafm r\u1eeda, ng\u00e2m m\u00ecnh v\u00e0 r\u1eddi \u0111i m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng c\u1ea7n gi\u1ea3 v\u1edd. Khu v\u1ef1c d\u00e0nh cho n\u1eef gi\u1edbi, h\u1ea1n ch\u1ebf h\u01a1n v\u1ec1 ti\u1ec7n nghi, v\u1eabn ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi th\u01b0\u1eddng xuy\u00ean\u2014m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 s\u1ef1 suy gi\u1ea3m c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 ng\u01b0\u1eddi ghi nh\u1eadn l\u00e0 d\u1ea5u hi\u1ec7u c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 b\u1ecf b\u00ea gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh r\u1ed9ng r\u00e3i h\u01a1n trong c\u01a1 s\u1edf h\u1ea1 t\u1ea7ng c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng.<\/p>\n

Nh\u00e0 t\u1eafm Ho\u00e0ng gia, n\u1eb1m c\u1ea1nh qu\u00e1n r\u01b0\u1ee3u, mang \u0111\u1ebfn tr\u1ea3i nghi\u1ec7m n\u1eb1m gi\u1eefa s\u1ef1 sang tr\u1ecdng v\u00e0 di s\u1ea3n. Tr\u1ea7n nh\u00e0 h\u00ecnh v\u00f2m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u1ee5c h\u1ed3i, c\u00e1c b\u1ee9c tranh gh\u00e9p \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tr\u00e1t l\u1ea1i v\u00e0 th\u1ef1c \u0111\u01a1n \u0111a ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u00e0y \u1edf c\u1eeda. Gi\u00e1 c\u1ea3 ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh s\u1ef1 \u0111\u00e1nh b\u00f3ng n\u00e0y. V\u00e0 trong khi nhi\u1ec1u du kh\u00e1ch r\u1eddi \u0111i v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 h\u00e0i l\u00f2ng, nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi kh\u00e1c l\u1ea1i b\u00e1o c\u00e1o s\u1ef1 kh\u00f4ng nh\u1ea5t qu\u00e1n\u2014ph\u1ee5 ph\u00ed b\u1ea5t ng\u1edd, h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng gi\u00e1 k\u00e9p ho\u1eb7c d\u1ecbch v\u1ee5 t\u00f9y ti\u1ec7n. Tuy nhi\u00ean, s\u1ef1 kh\u00f3 \u0111o\u00e1n nh\u01b0 v\u1eady l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n trong t\u00ednh c\u00e1ch c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. Kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 g\u00ec l\u00e0 c\u1ed1 \u0111\u1ecbnh ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n \u1edf Tbilisi, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i b\u00ean d\u01b0\u1edbi b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t.<\/p>\n

\u1ede ph\u00eda b\u1eafc c\u1ee7a khu ph\u1ed1 Abanotubani, qua m\u1ed9t m\u1edb b\u1eadc thang d\u1ed1c v\u00e0 m\u1eb7t ti\u1ec1n c\u0169 k\u1ef9, nh\u1eefng nh\u00e0 t\u1eafm nh\u1ecf h\u01a1n kh\u00e1c v\u1eabn t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i trong s\u1ef1 m\u01a1 h\u1ed3 t\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0111\u1ed1i. Bagni Zolfo, n\u1eb1m sau ga t\u00e0u \u0111i\u1ec7n ng\u1ea7m Marjanishvili, l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t n\u01a1i nh\u01b0 v\u1eady. \u00cdt \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c qu\u1ea3n l\u00fd, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00e2n \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng lui t\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u h\u01a1n, n\u01a1i n\u00e0y mang m\u1ed9t b\u1ea7u kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t\u2014l\u1ea1c h\u1eadu m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch l\u1eb7ng l\u1ebd v\u00e0 \u0111\u00f4i khi th\u00f4 l\u1ed7 m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch th\u1ef1c d\u1ee5ng. \u1ede t\u1ea7ng tr\u00ean, m\u1ed9t ph\u00f2ng x\u00f4ng h\u01a1i kh\u00f4 ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn trong s\u1ed1 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng l\u1edbn tu\u1ed5i c\u0169ng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t c\u00e2u l\u1ea1c b\u1ed9 x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i k\u00edn \u0111\u00e1o. Ngo\u00e0i ra c\u00f2n c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t nh\u00f3m kh\u00e1ch h\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ed3ng t\u00ednh \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bi\u1ebft \u0111\u1ebfn, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 v\u00e0o bu\u1ed5i t\u1ed1i, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 s\u1ef1 k\u00edn \u0111\u00e1o v\u1eabn l\u00e0 quy t\u1eafc b\u1ea5t th\u00e0nh v\u0103n.<\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng b\u1ed3n t\u1eafm l\u01b0u hu\u1ef3nh n\u00e0y c\u00f3 ch\u1ee9c n\u0103ng v\u01b0\u1ee3t ra ngo\u00e0i v\u1ec7 sinh ho\u1eb7c s\u1ef1 nu\u00f4ng chi\u1ec1u. Ch\u00fang l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 li\u00ean t\u1ee5c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n, bi\u1ec3u hi\u1ec7n v\u1eadt l\u00fd c\u1ee7a di s\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ecba nhi\u1ec7t c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. C\u00e1c kho\u00e1ng ch\u1ea5t trong n\u01b0\u1edbc, ti\u1ebfng k\u1ebdo k\u1eb9t c\u1ee7a \u0111\u00e1, h\u01a1i \u1ea5m s\u00e2u th\u1eb3m xung quanh\u2014nh\u1eefng c\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c n\u00e0y t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n c\u1ee7a c\u01a1 s\u1edf h\u1ea1 t\u1ea7ng gi\u00e1c quan c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, c\u0169ng h\u1ee3p l\u1ec7 v\u00e0 b\u1ec1n b\u1ec9 nh\u01b0 nh\u1eefng c\u00e2y c\u1ea7u ho\u1eb7c t\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u00e0i.<\/p>\n

Tuy nhi\u00ean, ch\u00ednh l\u1edbp \u0111\u1ea5t cung c\u1ea5p nh\u1eefng su\u1ed1i n\u00e0y c\u0169ng ch\u1ecbu \u00e1p l\u1ef1c. M\u1eb7t \u0111\u1ea5t b\u00ean d\u01b0\u1edbi Tbilisi ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng m\u1ea1nh v\u1ec1 \u0111\u1ecba ch\u1ea5n, th\u1ec9nh tho\u1ea3ng d\u1ecbch chuy\u1ec3n \u0111\u1ec3 ph\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ed1i l\u1eb7ng l\u1ebd. C\u00e1c t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 ph\u1ea3i th\u00edch nghi v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 b\u1ea5t \u1ed5n n\u00e0y. \u0110\u01b0\u1eddng \u1ed1ng b\u1ecb r\u00f2 r\u1ec9. T\u01b0\u1eddng th\u00ec ph\u1ed3ng l\u00ean. Nh\u01b0ng c\u00e1c b\u1ed3n t\u1eafm v\u1eabn t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c cung c\u1ea5p n\u01b0\u1edbc t\u1eeb c\u00e1c t\u1ea7ng n\u01b0\u1edbc ng\u1ea7m s\u00e2u kh\u00f4ng thay \u0111\u1ed5i m\u1ee5c \u0111\u00edch s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng k\u1ec3 t\u1eeb tr\u01b0\u1edbc khi th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 c\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ed1.<\/p>\n

Nghi l\u1ec5 t\u1eafm ch\u1eadm r\u00e3i. N\u00f3 ch\u1ed1ng l\u1ea1i s\u1ef1 s\u1ed1 h\u00f3a. \u0110i\u1ec7n tho\u1ea1i m\u1edd v\u00e0 h\u1ecfng. C\u01a1 th\u1ec3 con ng\u01b0\u1eddi tr\u1edf l\u1ea1i v\u1edbi ch\u00ednh n\u00f3, nh\u1eefng c\u01a1n \u0111au d\u1ecbu \u0111i trong h\u01a1i n\u01b0\u1edbc n\u00f3ng. Da \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u00e0 x\u00e1t th\u00f4 r\u00e1p v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00e1i t\u1ea1o. C\u01a1 b\u1eafp ch\u00f9ng xu\u1ed1ng. Cu\u1ed9c tr\u00f2 chuy\u1ec7n, khi di\u1ec5n ra, r\u1ea5t th\u01b0a th\u1edbt. Th\u01b0\u1eddng th\u00ec b\u1eb1ng ti\u1ebfng Nga ho\u1eb7c ti\u1ebfng Gruzia, th\u1ec9nh tho\u1ea3ng th\u00ec th\u1ea7m qua nh\u1eefng vi\u00ean g\u1ea1ch tr\u01a1n b\u00f3ng v\u00ec h\u01a1i n\u01b0\u1edbc. T\u1ea5t nhi\u00ean, c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng kho\u1ea3nh kh\u1eafc c\u01b0\u1eddi, v\u00e0 \u0111\u00f4i khi l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng kho\u1ea3nh kh\u1eafc suy ng\u1eabm y\u00ean t\u0129nh. M\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng ng\u1ed3i m\u1ed9t m\u00ecnh trong ch\u1eadu, n\u01b0\u1edbc v\u1ed7 nh\u1eb9 v\u00e0o \u0111\u1ea7u g\u1ed1i, c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111ang suy ng\u1eabm v\u1ec1 m\u1ed9t \u0111i\u1ec1u g\u00ec \u0111\u00f3 t\u1ea7m th\u01b0\u1eddng nh\u01b0 vi\u1ec7c v\u1eb7t ho\u1eb7c s\u00e2u s\u1eafc nh\u01b0 n\u1ed7i \u0111au. B\u1ed3n t\u1eafm cho ph\u00e9p c\u1ea3 hai.<\/p>\n

Trong m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 li\u00ean t\u1ee5c thay \u0111\u1ed5i, ph\u00f2ng t\u1eafm l\u01b0u hu\u1ef3nh l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong s\u1ed1 \u00edt nh\u1eefng th\u1ee9 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ed5i. S\u1ef1 h\u1ea5p d\u1eabn c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 m\u1edbi l\u1ea1, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 t\u00ednh li\u00ean t\u1ee5c. Ch\u00fang l\u00e0 l\u1eddi nh\u1eafc nh\u1edf v\u1ec1 m\u1ed9t ch\u00e2n l\u00fd c\u01a1 b\u1ea3n: b\u00ean d\u01b0\u1edbi b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t ch\u00fang ta x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng, tr\u00e1i \u0111\u1ea5t v\u1eabn ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c \u1ea5m l\u00ean v\u00e0 ch\u1ea3y, kh\u00f4ng thay \u0111\u1ed5i trong s\u1ef1 h\u00e0o ph\u00f3ng c\u1ed5 x\u01b0a c\u1ee7a n\u00f3.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi du kh\u00e1ch, vi\u1ec7c \u0111\u1ebfn th\u0103m ph\u00f2ng t\u1eafm c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 g\u00e2y m\u1ea5t ph\u01b0\u01a1ng h\u01b0\u1edbng\u2014th\u00e2n m\u1eadt, th\u1ec3 ch\u1ea5t v\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 nghi th\u1ee9c r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta ph\u1ea3i \u0111i\u1ec1u h\u01b0\u1edbng kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 c\u00e1c ph\u00f2ng, m\u00e0 c\u00f2n c\u1ea3 nh\u1eefng quy t\u1eafc b\u1ea5t th\u00e0nh v\u0103n: khi n\u00e0o th\u00ec n\u00f3i, c\u00e1ch k\u1ef3 c\u1ecd, ti\u1ec1n boa bao nhi\u00eau. Nh\u01b0ng \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi c\u01b0 d\u00e2n, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 l\u1edbn tu\u1ed5i, nh\u1eefng ph\u00f2ng t\u1eafm n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 \u0111i\u1ec3m \u0111\u1ebfn m\u00e0 l\u00e0 nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u. H\u1ecd \u0111\u1ebfn h\u00e0ng tu\u1ea7n, ho\u1eb7c h\u00e0ng th\u00e1ng, ho\u1eb7c ch\u1ec9 khi c\u00f3 \u0111i\u1ec1u g\u00ec \u0111\u00f3 \u0111au nh\u1ee9c. H\u1ecd bi\u1ebft nh\u1eefng h\u1ed3 b\u01a1i \u01b0a th\u00edch, nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 trung th\u1ef1c nh\u1ea5t, nhi\u1ec7t \u0111\u1ed9 l\u00e0m d\u1ecbu thay v\u00ec g\u00e2y s\u1ed1c.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1eafm m\u00ecnh trong b\u1ed3n t\u1eafm Tbilisi l\u00e0 tr\u1ea3i nghi\u1ec7m th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i qua ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac, \u1ea9m th\u1ef1c hay l\u1ecbch s\u1eed, m\u00e0 qua l\u00e0n da. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u01b0\u1edfi \u1ea5m b\u1edfi ch\u00ednh d\u00f2ng n\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u00e3 d\u1eabn d\u1eaft m\u1ed9t v\u1ecb vua x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng th\u1ee7 \u0111\u00f4 c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh\u2014v\u00e0 v\u1eabn \u00e2m th\u1ea7m \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh t\u00e2m h\u1ed3n c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1.<\/p>\n

Ph\u00e1o \u0111\u00e0i Narikala, V\u01b0\u1eddn b\u00e1ch th\u1ea3o v\u00e0 \u0110\u1ecba l\u00fd c\u1ee7a G\u00f3c nh\u00ecn<\/h2>\n

T\u1eeb h\u1ea7u nh\u01b0 b\u1ea5t k\u1ef3 \u0111i\u1ec3m n\u00e0o \u1edf trung t\u00e2m Tbilisi, \u0111\u00f4i m\u1eaft kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 tr\u00e1nh kh\u1ecfi h\u01b0\u1edbng l\u00ean t\u00e0n t\u00edch c\u1ee7a Ph\u00e1o \u0111\u00e0i Narikala. H\u00ecnh b\u00f3ng g\u00f3c c\u1ea1nh c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 c\u1eaft v\u00e0o b\u1ea7u tr\u1eddi, n\u1eb1m tr\u00ean \u0111\u1ec9nh m\u1ed9t v\u00e1ch \u0111\u00e1 d\u1ef1ng \u0111\u1ee9ng tr\u00f4ng xu\u1ed1ng th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 c\u1ed5 v\u00e0 S\u00f4ng Mtkvari ch\u1ea3y ch\u1eadm b\u00ean d\u01b0\u1edbi. Ph\u00e1o \u0111\u00e0i kh\u00f4ng c\u00f2n nguy\u00ean v\u1eb9n\u2014c\u00e1c b\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 \u0111ang \u0111\u1ed5 n\u00e1t \u1edf m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 n\u01a1i, ph\u00e1o \u0111\u00e0i c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 b\u1ecb s\u1ee5p \u0111\u1ed5 m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n\u2014nh\u01b0ng n\u00f3 v\u1eabn ki\u00ean c\u01b0\u1eddng, m\u1ed9t h\u00ecnh h\u1ecdc g\u1ed3 gh\u1ec1 kh\u1eafc tr\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ch\u00e2n tr\u1eddi.<\/p>\n

Narikala c\u00f3 tu\u1ed5i \u0111\u1eddi l\u00e2u h\u01a1n ch\u00ednh Tbilisi theo h\u00ecnh d\u1ea1ng hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c ng\u01b0\u1eddi Ba T\u01b0 th\u00e0nh l\u1eadp v\u00e0o th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 th\u1ee9 4 v\u00e0 sau \u0111\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u00e1c ti\u1ec3u v\u01b0\u01a1ng \u1ea2 R\u1eadp m\u1edf r\u1ed9ng, ph\u00e1o \u0111\u00e0i \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eeda \u0111\u1ed5i, ph\u00e1 h\u1ee7y v\u00e0 t\u00e1i thi\u1ebft nhi\u1ec1u l\u1ea7n. N\u00f3 \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1ea3i qua tay ho\u00e0ng gia M\u00f4ng C\u1ed5, Byzantine v\u00e0 Gruzia. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u00f4ng C\u1ed5 \u0111\u1eb7t t\u00ean cho n\u00f3 l\u00e0 Narin Qala\u2014\u201cPh\u00e1o \u0111\u00e0i nh\u1ecf\u201d\u2014m\u1ed9t c\u00e1i t\u00ean v\u1eabn t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i ngay c\u1ea3 khi c\u00e1c \u0111\u1ebf ch\u1ebf s\u1ee5p \u0111\u1ed5 v\u00e0 bi\u00ean gi\u1edbi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3i c\u00e1ch. B\u1ea5t ch\u1ea5p danh hi\u1ec7u nh\u1ecf b\u00e9 n\u00e0y, ph\u00e1o \u0111\u00e0i v\u1eabn hi\u1ec7n di\u1ec7n l\u1edbn trong ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac kh\u00f4ng gian v\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. T\u1eeb c\u00e1c b\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1eddng th\u00e0nh c\u1ee7a n\u00f3, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta th\u1ea5y s\u1ef1 lan t\u1ecfa c\u1ee7a Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i tr\u00ean b\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ed3 m\u00e0 trong s\u1ef1 nh\u00f4 l\u00ean v\u00e0 s\u1ee5p \u0111\u1ed5 nh\u1eb9 nh\u00e0ng c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng m\u00e1i nh\u00e0, \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng l\u1ea5p l\u00e1nh c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng t\u00f2a th\u00e1p k\u00ednh g\u1ea7n Rustaveli v\u00e0 \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng nh\u1ea5p nh\u00e1y ch\u1eadm r\u00e3i c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng ng\u1ecdn \u0111\u00e8n trong nh\u00e0 \u1edf c\u00e1c khu chung c\u01b0 xa x\u00f4i c\u1ee7a Saburtalo.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00ean Narikala r\u1ea5t d\u1ed1c. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111i b\u1ed9 \u0111\u1ebfn \u0111\u00f3, qua nh\u1eefng c\u1ea7u thang h\u1eb9p b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u t\u1eeb Betlemi ho\u1eb7c Abanotubani, quanh co qua nh\u1eefng b\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1eddng th\u1ea5p, hoa d\u1ea1i v\u00e0 th\u1ec9nh tho\u1ea3ng c\u00f3 ch\u00f3 hoang. Ho\u1eb7c, c\u00e1p treo t\u1eeb Rike Park\u2014l\u01b0\u1edbt nh\u1eb9 nh\u00e0ng tr\u00ean s\u00f4ng\u2014\u0111\u01b0a h\u00e0nh kh\u00e1ch l\u00ean r\u00eca tr\u00ean c\u1ee7a ph\u00e1o \u0111\u00e0i trong v\u00f2ng ch\u01b0a \u0111\u1ea7y hai ph\u00fat. B\u1ea3n th\u00e2n vi\u1ec7c leo l\u00ean tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i nghi l\u1ec5, m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u01b0\u1edbng l\u1ea1i. M\u1ed7i b\u01b0\u1edbc ch\u00e2n \u0111\u01b0a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 xu\u1ed1ng th\u1ea5p h\u01a1n, bi\u1ebfn ti\u1ebfng \u1ed3n th\u00e0nh ti\u1ebfng th\u00ec th\u1ea7m, bi\u1ebfn m\u1eadt \u0111\u1ed9 th\u00e0nh hoa v\u0103n.<\/p>\n

T\u00ednh \u0111\u1ebfn th\u00e1ng 5 n\u0103m 2024, \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m n\u00e0y t\u1ea1m th\u1eddi \u0111\u00f3ng c\u1eeda \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi du kh\u00e1ch do t\u00ecnh tr\u1ea1ng b\u1ea5t \u1ed5n v\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac \u0111ang di\u1ec5n ra. Nh\u01b0ng vi\u1ec7c \u0111\u00f3ng c\u1eeda, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 \u0111\u00e1ng ti\u1ebfc, nh\u01b0ng kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 ch\u1ea5t th\u01a1. Ngay c\u1ea3 khi kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 ti\u1ebfp c\u1eadn, ph\u00e1o \u0111\u00e0i v\u1eabn gi\u1eef \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ee9c h\u1ea5p d\u1eabn c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. N\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t \u0111i\u1ec3m thu h\u00fat kh\u00e1ch du l\u1ecbch m\u00e0 c\u00f2n l\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1ee1ng c\u1eeda gi\u1eefa qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 v\u00e0 hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i, gi\u1eefa l\u1ecbch s\u1eed x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng v\u00e0 th\u1eddi gian \u0111\u1ecba ch\u1ea5t.<\/p>\n

N\u1eb1m c\u1ea1nh m\u1eb7t ph\u00eda \u0111\u00f4ng c\u1ee7a Narikala l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng khu v\u1ef1c \u00edt \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bi\u1ebft \u0111\u1ebfn c\u1ee7a Tbilisi: V\u01b0\u1eddn b\u00e1ch th\u1ea3o qu\u1ed1c gia. Tr\u1ea3i d\u00e0i tr\u00ean m\u1ed9t thung l\u0169ng h\u1eb9p, c\u00f3 r\u1eebng, khu v\u01b0\u1eddn n\u00e0y \u0111i xu\u1ed1ng t\u1eeb c\u00e1c b\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u00e1o \u0111\u00e0i v\u00e0 d\u1ecdc theo d\u00f2ng su\u1ed1i Tsavkisis-Tskali quanh co trong h\u01a1n m\u1ed9t km. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00e0nh l\u1eadp v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1845, n\u00f3 c\u00f3 tr\u01b0\u1edbc nhi\u1ec1u t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c v\u0103n h\u00f3a c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 v\u00e0 ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i tham v\u1ecdng kh\u00e1c - kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 th\u1ed1ng tr\u1ecb, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 gi\u00e1m tuy\u1ec3n.<\/p>\n

B\u1ed1 c\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a khu v\u01b0\u1eddn kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ed3ng \u0111\u1ec1u v\u00e0 \u0111\u00f4i khi kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u0103m s\u00f3c. C\u00e1c l\u1ed1i \u0111i bi\u1ebfn m\u1ea5t trong b\u1ee5i r\u1eadm, bi\u1ec3n b\u00e1o kh\u00f4ng th\u01b0\u1eddng xuy\u00ean v\u00e0 vi\u1ec7c b\u1ea3o tr\u00ec c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 kh\u00f4ng th\u01b0\u1eddng xuy\u00ean. Nh\u01b0ng ch\u00ednh s\u1ef1 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ed3ng \u0111\u1ec1u c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 l\u1ea1i mang \u0111\u1ebfn s\u1ef1 g\u1ea7n g\u0169i. \u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t c\u00f4ng vi\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u0103m s\u00f3c c\u1ea9n th\u1eadn m\u00e0 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t kho l\u01b0u tr\u1eef s\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1ec1 \u0111\u1eddi s\u1ed1ng th\u1ef1c v\u1eadt\u2014c\u00e1c lo\u00e0i \u0110\u1ecba Trung H\u1ea3i, Caucasian v\u00e0 c\u1eadn nhi\u1ec7t \u0111\u1edbi ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd song song. S\u01b0\u1eddn ph\u00eda nam \u0111\u00f3n nh\u1eadn \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng gay g\u1eaft v\u00e0 l\u00e0 n\u01a1i sinh s\u1ed1ng c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i c\u00e2y b\u1ee5i c\u1ee9ng c\u00e1p; c\u00e1c r\u1eb7ng n\u00fai ph\u00eda b\u1eafc c\u00f3 b\u00f3ng r\u00e2m v\u00e0 \u1ea9m \u01b0\u1edbt, l\u00e0 n\u01a1i sinh s\u1ed1ng c\u1ee7a r\u00eau v\u00e0 d\u01b0\u01a1ng x\u1ec9. M\u1ed9t th\u00e1c n\u01b0\u1edbc, khi\u00eam t\u1ed1n nh\u01b0ng b\u1ec1n b\u1ec9, t\u00f4 \u0111i\u1ec3m cho c\u1ea3nh quan b\u1eb1ng \u00e2m thanh.<\/p>\n

C\u00f3 nh\u1eefng ph\u1ea7n ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c: m\u1ed9t khu v\u01b0\u1eddn nh\u1ecf g\u1ea7n l\u1ed1i v\u00e0o khu v\u01b0\u1eddn, nh\u1eefng nh\u00e0 k\u00ednh nh\u1ecf v\u00e0 m\u1ed9t \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng tr\u01b0\u1ee3t zipline d\u00e0nh cho nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi th\u00edch phi\u00eau l\u01b0u h\u01a1n. Nh\u01b0ng nh\u1eefng kho\u1ea3nh kh\u1eafc \u0111\u1eb9p nh\u1ea5t l\u1ea1i l\u00e0 ng\u1eabu nhi\u00ean. M\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc gh\u1ebf d\u00e0i b\u1ecb l\u00e1 r\u1ee5ng ch\u00f4n v\u00f9i m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n. M\u1ed9t \u0111\u1ee9a tr\u1ebb th\u1ea3 m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc thuy\u1ec1n gi\u1ea5y xu\u1ed1ng d\u00f2ng su\u1ed1i. M\u1ed9t c\u1eb7p \u0111\u00f4i \u0111ang \u0111i xu\u1ed1ng m\u1ed9t con \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng tr\u01a1n tr\u01b0\u1ee3t v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc \u00f4 chung. Khu v\u01b0\u1eddn kh\u00f4ng \u00e1p \u0111\u1eb7t m\u1ed9t c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n; n\u00f3 cung c\u1ea5p m\u1ed9t \u0111\u1ecba h\u00ecnh m\u1edf ra ch\u1eadm r\u00e3i.<\/p>\n

Xa h\u01a1n n\u1eefa tr\u00ean s\u01b0\u1eddn n\u00fai ph\u00eda t\u00e2y, qua nh\u1eefng ng\u1ecdn c\u00e2y v\u00e0 ngay b\u00ean d\u01b0\u1edbi b\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1ee3ng M\u1eb9 Georgia, m\u1ed9t tr\u1ee5c ph\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh kh\u00e1c hi\u1ec7n ra. T\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u00e0i Kartlis Deda\u201420 m\u00e9t nh\u00f4m b\u1ea1c trong trang ph\u1ee5c d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c\u2014\u0111\u1ee9ng \u0111\u00f3 c\u1ea3nh gi\u00e1c, v\u1eeba mang t\u00ednh v\u00f5 thu\u1eadt v\u1eeba mang t\u00ednh m\u1eabu t\u1eed. B\u00e0 c\u1ea7m m\u1ed9t thanh ki\u1ebfm trong m\u1ed9t tay v\u00e0 m\u1ed9t b\u00e1t r\u01b0\u1ee3u trong tay kia: hi\u1ebfu kh\u00e1ch v\u1edbi b\u1ea1n b\u00e8, kh\u00e1ng c\u1ef1 v\u1edbi k\u1ebb th\u00f9. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1eafp \u0111\u1eb7t v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1958 \u0111\u1ec3 k\u1ef7 ni\u1ec7m 1.500 n\u0103m th\u00e0nh l\u1eadp th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, b\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1ee3ng n\u00e0y k\u1ec3 t\u1eeb \u0111\u00f3 \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng cho t\u01b0 th\u1ebf c\u1ee7a Tbilisi\u2014ch\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3n, nh\u01b0ng kh\u00f4ng ng\u00e2y th\u01a1.<\/p>\n

Ph\u00eda d\u01b0\u1edbi c\u00f4, khu v\u01b0\u1eddn b\u00e1ch th\u1ea3o \u0111\u1ed5 xu\u1ed1ng th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t th\u00e1c c\u00e2y v\u00e0 b\u1ee5i r\u1eadm m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i. Ph\u00eda tr\u00ean, \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng g\u1edd d\u1ed1c xu\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ed3i Sololaki, t\u1eeb \u0111\u00f3 ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 nh\u00ecn th\u1ea5y to\u00e0n b\u1ed9 cung th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1: Mtkvari quanh co, s\u1ef1 l\u1ed9n x\u1ed9n theo phong c\u00e1ch baroque c\u1ee7a Tbilisi c\u1ed5, s\u1ef1 \u0111\u01a1n \u0111i\u1ec7u theo l\u01b0\u1edbi c\u1ee7a Saburtalo v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng r\u1eb7ng n\u00fai cao, m\u1edd s\u01b0\u01a1ng \u1edf ph\u00eda xa. Ch\u00ednh t\u1eeb \u0111\u00e2y, s\u1ef1 m\u00e2u thu\u1eabn ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n c\u1ee7a Tbilisi tr\u1edf n\u00ean d\u1ec5 hi\u1ec3u\u2014kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 h\u1ed7n lo\u1ea1n, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 \u0111a \u00e2m. Ph\u00e1o \u0111\u00e0i, khu v\u01b0\u1eddn, b\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1ee3ng\u2014ch\u00fang t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh b\u1ed9 ba c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c k\u1ec3 b\u1eb1ng \u0111\u00e1, l\u00e1 v\u00e0 kim lo\u1ea1i.<\/p>\n

M\u1ed1i quan h\u1ec7 gi\u1eefa th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9 cao kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9. N\u00f3 l\u00e0 tr\u00ed nh\u1edb. T\u1eeb nh\u1eefng \u0111\u1ed9 cao n\u00e0y, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta nh\u1edb v\u1ec1 th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 nh\u01b0 nh\u1eefng l\u1edbp. D\u00f2ng s\u00f4ng kh\u1eafc h\u1ecda l\u1edbp n\u1ec1n. Ph\u00eda tr\u00ean n\u00f3, c\u00e1c khu ph\u1ed1 n\u1ed5i l\u00ean nh\u01b0 nh\u1eefng t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp: bi\u1ec7t th\u1ef1 th\u01b0\u01a1ng gia th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 19, c\u00e1c kh\u1ed1i nh\u00e0 Li\u00ean X\u00f4, nh\u1eefng c\u0103n h\u1ed9 \u00e1p m\u00e1i b\u1eb1ng k\u00ednh, t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 \u0111\u1ec1u b\u1ecb \u00e9p v\u00e0o \u0111\u1ed9 cao kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ed3ng \u0111\u1ec1u. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 kh\u00f4ng che gi\u1ea5u s\u1ef1 ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh m\u00e0 \u0111\u1ec3 l\u1ed9 ra d\u01b0\u1edbi d\u1ea1ng n\u1ed5i.<\/p>\n

Tr\u1edf v\u1ec1 t\u1eeb Narikala hay v\u01b0\u1eddn b\u00e1ch th\u1ea3o \u0111\u1ebfn nh\u1eefng khu v\u1ef1c th\u1ea5p h\u01a1n l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 xu\u1ed1ng d\u1ed1c kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 v\u1ec1 \u0111\u1ed9 cao m\u00e0 c\u00f2n v\u1ec1 nh\u1ecbp \u0111\u1ed9. Ti\u1ebfng \u1ed3n tr\u1edf l\u1ea1i ch\u1eadm r\u00e3i\u2014ti\u1ebfng \u1ed3n c\u1ee7a giao th\u00f4ng, ti\u1ebfng ch\u00f3 s\u1ee7a, ti\u1ebfng va ch\u1ea1m c\u1ee7a b\u00e1t \u0111\u0129a t\u1eeb c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 h\u00e0ng tr\u00ean t\u1ea7ng th\u01b0\u1ee3ng. Kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed tr\u1edf n\u00ean n\u1eb7ng n\u1ec1 h\u01a1n, th\u01a1m h\u01a1n v\u1edbi m\u00f9i kh\u00f3i th\u1ea3i v\u00e0 gia v\u1ecb. Nh\u01b0ng \u0111\u1ed9 cao v\u1eabn c\u00f2n, kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9 cao, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 h\u1ed3i t\u01b0\u1edfng. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta mang t\u1ea7m nh\u00ecn v\u00e0o b\u00ean trong, m\u1ed9t b\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ed3 tinh th\u1ea7n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c in d\u1ea5u kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i b\u1edfi GPS m\u00e0 b\u1edfi h\u00ecnh d\u1ea1ng c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng g\u1edd v\u00e0 g\u00f3c c\u1ee7a \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng bu\u1ed5i t\u1ed1i.<\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng kh\u00f4ng gian tr\u00ean cao n\u00e0y\u2014kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ki\u1ec3m so\u00e1t, m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n hoang d\u00e3, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh b\u1edfi l\u1ecbch s\u1eed v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9 d\u1ed1c\u2014mang \u0111\u1ebfn nh\u1eefng g\u00ec m\u00e0 \u00edt th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0o v\u1eabn cung c\u1ea5p: g\u00f3c nh\u00ecn kh\u00f4ng trung gian. Kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 h\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ee3i mua v\u00e9, kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 l\u1eddi t\u01b0\u1eddng thu\u1eadt qua tai nghe, kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 d\u00e2y nhung. Ch\u1ec9 c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ea5t, \u0111\u00e1 v\u00e0 b\u1ea7u tr\u1eddi. V\u00e0 th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eafp x\u1ebfp b\u00ean d\u01b0\u1edbi nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t v\u0103n b\u1ea3n s\u1ed1ng.<\/p>\n

Di s\u1ea3n v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 v\u1eafng m\u1eb7t: B\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng, K\u00fd \u1ee9c v\u00e0 Ki\u1ebfn tr\u00fac c\u1ee7a S\u1ef1 m\u1ea5t m\u00e1t<\/h2>\n

\u1ede Tbilisi, tr\u00ed nh\u1edb kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t b\u00e0i t\u1eadp tr\u1eebu t\u01b0\u1ee3ng. N\u00f3 l\u00e0 v\u1eadt ch\u1ea5t\u2014r\u1ea3i r\u00e1c kh\u1eafp c\u00e1c t\u1ea7ng h\u1ea7m v\u00e0 t\u1ee7 k\u00ednh, g\u1eafn tr\u00ean c\u00e1c t\u1ea5m b\u1ea3ng c\u0169 k\u1ef9, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1ea3o v\u1ec7 trong nh\u1eefng c\u0103n ph\u00f2ng y\u00ean t\u0129nh. C\u00e1c b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 kh\u00f4ng k\u00eau g\u00e0o s\u1ef1 ch\u00fa \u00fd. Nhi\u1ec1u b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eb7t trong c\u00e1c dinh th\u1ef1 c\u0169 ho\u1eb7c c\u00e1c t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 c\u1ee7a t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c m\u00e0 v\u1ebb ngo\u00e0i t\u0129nh l\u1eb7ng c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang tr\u00e1i ng\u01b0\u1ee3c v\u1edbi chi\u1ec1u s\u00e2u c\u1ee7a b\u1ed9 s\u01b0u t\u1eadp. Ch\u1ee9c n\u0103ng c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 tr\u01b0ng b\u00e0y m\u00e0 c\u00f2n l\u00e0 t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i: ch\u1ed1ng l\u1ea1i s\u1ef1 x\u00f3a b\u1ecf, ch\u1ed1ng l\u1ea1i ch\u1ee9ng m\u1ea5t tr\u00ed nh\u1edb, ch\u1ed1ng l\u1ea1i s\u1ef1 hao m\u00f2n ch\u1eadm ch\u1ea1p c\u1ee7a ti\u1ebfng \u1ed3n l\u1ecbch s\u1eed.<\/p>\n

H\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng B\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng Qu\u1ed1c gia Gruzia \u0111\u00f3ng vai tr\u00f2 l\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi gi\u00e1m h\u1ed9 c\u1ed1t l\u00f5i c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 b\u1ec1n b\u1ec9 n\u00e0y. H\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng n\u00e0y bao g\u1ed3m nhi\u1ec1u t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c, m\u1ed7i t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c t\u1eadp trung v\u00e0o m\u1ed9t giai \u0111o\u1ea1n, h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt ho\u1eb7c ch\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ec1 t\u01b0\u1eddng thu\u1eadt ri\u00eang bi\u1ec7t. B\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng Simon Janashia c\u1ee7a Gruzia, n\u1eb1m tr\u00ean \u0110\u1ea1i l\u1ed9 Rustaveli, c\u00f3 l\u1ebd l\u00e0 b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng b\u00e1ch khoa nh\u1ea5t. C\u00e1c cu\u1ed9c tri\u1ec3n l\u00e3m th\u01b0\u1eddng tr\u1ef1c c\u1ee7a b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng theo d\u00f5i m\u1ed9t v\u00f2ng cung r\u1ed9ng l\u1edbn\u2014t\u1eeb c\u00e1c h\u00f3a th\u1ea1ch th\u1eddi ti\u1ec1n s\u1eed c\u1ee7a Homo ergaster \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u00e1t hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i Dmanisi \u0111\u1ebfn c\u00e1c bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng th\u1eddi trung c\u1ed5 v\u00e0 t\u00e1c ph\u1ea9m kim ho\u00e0n c\u00f3 ni\u00ean \u0111\u1ea1i tr\u01b0\u1edbc nh\u1eefng \u0111\u1ed3ng ti\u1ec1n ch\u00e2u \u00c2u \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean. \u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 h\u00f9ng v\u0129 ng\u1eabu nhi\u00ean. Qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 luy\u1ec7n kim c\u1ee7a Gruzia, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed3 kim ho\u00e0n th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 \u0111\u1ea7u, c\u00f3 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng c\u1ee7ng c\u1ed1 huy\u1ec1n tho\u1ea1i c\u1ed5 x\u01b0a v\u1ec1 B\u1ed9 l\u00f4ng c\u1eebu v\u00e0ng. Trong khi \u0111\u00f3, c\u00e1c h\u1ed9p s\u1ecd Dmanisi \u0111\u00e3 hi\u1ec7u ch\u1ec9nh l\u1ea1i s\u1ef1 hi\u1ec3u bi\u1ebft c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang ta v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 di c\u01b0 c\u1ee7a con ng\u01b0\u1eddi, \u0111\u1ecbnh v\u1ecb Nam Kavkaz kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 v\u00f9ng ngo\u1ea1i vi m\u00e0 l\u00e0 \u0111i\u1ec3m xu\u1ea5t ph\u00e1t.<\/p>\n

M\u1ed7i t\u1ea7ng c\u1ee7a b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ec1u mang trong m\u00ecnh m\u1ed9t c\u1ea3m x\u00fac ri\u00eang. B\u1ed9 s\u01b0u t\u1eadp ti\u1ec1n xu, bao g\u1ed3m h\u01a1n 80.000 \u0111\u1ed3ng xu, m\u1edf ra nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 chi\u00eam nghi\u1ec7m ch\u1eadm r\u00e3i v\u1ec1 gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ebf ch\u1ebf. C\u00e1c t\u00e1c ph\u1ea9m \u0111\u00e1 qu\u00fd th\u1eddi trung c\u1ed5 l\u00e0 x\u00fac gi\u00e1c - nh\u1eefng phi\u1ebfn \u0111\u00e1 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ea1m kh\u1eafc v\u1edbi c\u00e1c d\u00f2ng ch\u1eef Urartu v\u00e0 Gruzia, \u00fd ngh\u0129a c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang \u0111\u00f4i khi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bi\u1ebft \u0111\u1ebfn, \u0111\u00f4i khi b\u1ecb l\u00e3ng qu\u00ean. V\u00e0 sau \u0111\u00f3 l\u00e0 B\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng Chi\u1ebfm \u0111\u00f3ng c\u1ee7a Li\u00ean X\u00f4, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eb7t \u1edf t\u1ea7ng tr\u00ean. M\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd, kh\u00f4ng h\u1ed1i h\u1eadn, n\u01a1i \u0111\u00e2y ghi l\u1ea1i m\u1ed9t th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 b\u1ecb khu\u1ea5t ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a Gruzia d\u01b0\u1edbi s\u1ef1 cai tr\u1ecb c\u1ee7a Sa ho\u00e0ng v\u00e0 Li\u00ean X\u00f4. \u1ea2nh c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 th\u01a1 m\u1ea5t t\u00edch. L\u1ec7nh l\u01b0u vong. Nh\u1eefng m\u1ea3nh v\u1ee1 c\u1ee7a thi\u1ebft b\u1ecb gi\u00e1m s\u00e1t. M\u1ed9t cu\u1ed1n s\u1ed5 \u0111\u1ecf v\u1edbi danh s\u00e1ch t\u00ean v\u00e0 ng\u00e0y th\u00e1ng. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t c\u0103n ph\u00f2ng n\u1eb7ng tr\u0129u s\u1ef1 im l\u1eb7ng.<\/p>\n

\u1ede n\u01a1i kh\u00e1c, k\u00fd \u1ee9c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u01b0u gi\u1eef b\u1eb1ng nh\u1eefng n\u00e9t v\u1ebd nh\u1eb9 nh\u00e0ng h\u01a1n. B\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng L\u1ecbch s\u1eed Tbilisi, t\u1ecda l\u1ea1c t\u1ea1i m\u1ed9t nh\u00e0 tr\u1ecd c\u0169 tr\u00ean ph\u1ed1 Sioni, l\u00e0 trung t\u00e2m c\u1ee7a ch\u00ednh th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. Quy m\u00f4 c\u1ee7a b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng khi\u00eam t\u1ed1n\u2014ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta \u0111i qua nh\u1eefng c\u0103n ph\u00f2ng c\u00f3 c\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c gi\u1ed1ng n\u1ed9i th\u1ea5t nh\u00e0 \u1edf h\u01a1n l\u00e0 ph\u00f2ng tr\u01b0ng b\u00e0y\u2014nh\u01b0ng m\u1ee5c \u0111\u00edch c\u1ee7a b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng th\u00ec ch\u00ednh x\u00e1c. C\u00e1c hi\u1ec7n v\u1eadt, b\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ed3, h\u00e0ng d\u1ec7t may v\u00e0 \u1ea3nh ch\u1ee5p h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y t\u1ea1o n\u00ean b\u1ee9c ch\u00e2n dung chi ti\u1ebft v\u1ec1 cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng \u0111\u00f4 th\u1ecb. B\u00ean ngo\u00e0i, m\u1eb7t ti\u1ec1n c\u1ee7a t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c m\u00e1i v\u00f2m v\u00e0 t\u01b0\u1eddng g\u1ea1ch theo phong c\u00e1ch Ottoman, b\u00e1o hi\u1ec7u qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t n\u01a1i tr\u00fa \u1ea9n cho c\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng nh\u00e2n d\u1ecdc theo Con \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng t\u01a1 l\u1ee5a. B\u00ean trong, th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n d\u01b0\u1edbi d\u1ea1ng tr\u1eebu t\u01b0\u1ee3ng, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 g\u1ea7n g\u0169i: nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc b\u00ecnh, d\u1ee5ng c\u1ee5 v\u00e0 qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o t\u1eebng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi s\u1ed1ng d\u1ecdc theo c\u00f9ng nh\u1eefng con ph\u1ed1 c\u1ea7m tr\u00ean tay gi\u1edd \u0111\u00e2y n\u1eb1m ngay d\u01b0\u1edbi ch\u00e2n h\u1ecd.<\/p>\n

B\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng D\u00e2n t\u1ed9c h\u1ecdc ngo\u00e0i tr\u1eddi, n\u1eb1m g\u1ea7n H\u1ed3 Turtle \u1edf v\u00f9ng ngo\u1ea1i \u00f4 \u0111\u1ed3i n\u00fai c\u1ee7a Vake, cung c\u1ea5p m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i l\u01b0u tr\u1eef kh\u00e1c. Tr\u1ea3i d\u00e0i tr\u00ean m\u1ed9t s\u01b0\u1eddn \u0111\u1ed3i c\u00f3 r\u1eebng, n\u01a1i \u0111\u00e2y t\u1eadp h\u1ee3p b\u1ea3y m\u01b0\u01a1i c\u00f4ng tr\u00ecnh \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea5y gh\u00e9p t\u1eeb nhi\u1ec1u v\u00f9ng kh\u00e1c nhau c\u1ee7a Gruzia\u2014nh\u00e0 c\u1eeda, th\u00e1p, m\u00e1y \u00e9p r\u01b0\u1ee3u v\u00e0 kho th\u00f3c. \u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ng\u00f4i l\u00e0ng thu nh\u1ecf m\u00e0 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t b\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ed3 k\u00fd \u1ee9c r\u1ea3i r\u00e1c, m\u1ed9t tuy\u1ec3n t\u1eadp kh\u00f4ng gian v\u1ec1 ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac b\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ecba. M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 nghi\u00eang \u1edf c\u00e1c g\u00f3c k\u1ef3 l\u1ea1. Nh\u1eefng t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 kh\u00e1c \u0111ang trong t\u00ecnh tr\u1ea1ng h\u01b0 h\u1ecfng. Nh\u01b0ng nhi\u1ec1u t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u0103m s\u00f3c, v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi h\u01b0\u1edbng d\u1eabn gi\u1ea3i th\u00edch b\u1eb1ng gi\u1ecdng n\u00f3i th\u00e0nh th\u1ea1o v\u1ec1 t\u1ea7m quan tr\u1ecdng c\u1ee7a m\u00e1i tranh, ban c\u00f4ng ch\u1ea1m kh\u1eafc v\u00e0 th\u00e1p canh ph\u00f2ng th\u1ee7. Vi\u1ec7c kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u00e1nh b\u00f3ng l\u00e0m t\u0103ng th\u00eam t\u00ednh x\u00e1c th\u1ef1c. \u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t b\u1ea3n sao c\u00e1ch \u0111i\u1ec7u m\u00e0 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t t\u1eadp h\u1ee3p c\u00e1c t\u00e0n t\u00edch \u0111\u00edch th\u1ef1c, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gh\u00e9p l\u1ea1i v\u1edbi nhau b\u1eb1ng \u0111\u1ecba l\u00fd v\u00e0 n\u1ed7 l\u1ef1c.<\/p>\n

Ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt c\u0169ng t\u00ecm th\u1ea5y v\u1ecb tr\u00ed c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh trong \u0111\u1ecba h\u00ecnh g\u1ee3i nh\u1edb n\u00e0y. Ph\u00f2ng tr\u01b0ng b\u00e0y Qu\u1ed1c gia tr\u00ean \u0110\u1ea1i l\u1ed9 Rustaveli l\u01b0u gi\u1eef m\u1ed9t b\u1ed9 s\u01b0u t\u1eadp l\u1edbn c\u00e1c b\u1ee9c tranh Georgia th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 19 v\u00e0 20, bao g\u1ed3m c\u00e1c t\u00e1c ph\u1ea9m c\u1ee7a Niko Pirosmani. C\u00e1c ph\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh ph\u1eb3ng v\u00e0 c\u00e1c nh\u00e2n v\u1eadt u s\u1ea7u c\u1ee7a \u00f4ng\u2014ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5, \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1eadt, c\u1ea3nh xi\u1ebfc\u2014kh\u00f4ng ng\u00e2y th\u01a1 m\u00e0 l\u00e0 nguy\u00ean t\u1ed1. Pirosmani v\u1ebd tranh m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch ti\u1ebft ki\u1ec7m, th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 tr\u00ean b\u00eca c\u1ee9ng, v\u00e0 c\u00e1c h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh c\u1ee7a \u00f4ng mang theo s\u1ef1 t\u0129nh l\u1eb7ng c\u1ee7a k\u00fd \u1ee9c d\u00e2n gian. Ch\u00fang v\u1eabn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c y\u00eau th\u00edch kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i v\u00ec k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang m\u00e0 v\u00ec ch\u00fang g\u1ee3i l\u00ean m\u1ed9t th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi n\u1eeda t\u01b0\u1edfng t\u01b0\u1ee3ng, n\u1eeda nh\u1edb.<\/p>\n

C\u00e1c b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng t\u1ea1i gia kh\u00e1c t\u00f4n vinh cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c ngh\u1ec7 s\u0129 v\u00e0 tr\u00ed th\u1ee9c c\u1ee5 th\u1ec3. B\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng Galaktion Tabidze vinh danh nh\u00e0 th\u01a1 \u0111au kh\u1ed5 c\u1ee7a phong tr\u00e0o T\u01b0\u1ee3ng tr\u01b0ng Gruzia, m\u1ed9t nh\u00e2n v\u1eadt c\u00f3 t\u00e0i n\u0103ng tr\u1eef t\u00ecnh ch\u1ec9 s\u00e1nh ngang v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 sa s\u00fat v\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t t\u00e2m l\u00fd. T\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1ef1 nh\u01b0 v\u1eady, c\u00e1c b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng Elene Akhvlediani v\u00e0 Ucha Japaridze b\u1ea3o t\u1ed3n kh\u00f4ng gian trong nh\u00e0 v\u00e0 t\u00e1c ph\u1ea9m c\u1ee7a hai h\u1ecda s\u0129 Gruzia l\u1edbn. Nh\u1eefng n\u01a1i n\u00e0y mang l\u1ea1i c\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c g\u1ea7n g\u0169i. Ch\u00fang kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c qu\u1ea3n l\u00fd cho \u0111\u00e1m \u0111\u00f4ng l\u1edbn. Du kh\u00e1ch th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111i lang thang m\u1ed9t m\u00ecnh, di chuy\u1ec3n t\u1eeb khu nh\u00e0 \u1edf \u0111\u1ebfn x\u01b0\u1edfng v\u1ebd, d\u1eebng l\u1ea1i \u0111\u1ec3 xem x\u00e9t c\u00e1c b\u1ea3n ph\u00e1c th\u1ea3o \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ghim m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch t\u00f9y ti\u1ec7n tr\u00ean t\u01b0\u1eddng. Th\u1eddi gian d\u01b0\u1eddng nh\u01b0 b\u1ecb \u0111\u00ecnh ch\u1ec9.<\/p>\n

C\u00f3 l\u1ebd kh\u00f4ng gian g\u00e2y \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng nh\u1ea5t trong s\u1ed1 nh\u1eefng kh\u00f4ng gian n\u00e0y l\u00e0 Writer's House of Georgia, m\u1ed9t dinh th\u1ef1 l\u1edbn \u1edf qu\u1eadn Sololaki do nh\u00e0 t\u1eeb thi\u1ec7n David Sarajishvili x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng v\u00e0o \u0111\u1ea7u th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 20. Ki\u1ebfn tr\u00fac c\u1ee7a t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p gi\u1eefa tr\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u00e1i Art Nouveau v\u00e0 tr\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u00e1i t\u00e2n Baroque, v\u1edbi khu v\u01b0\u1eddn l\u00e1t g\u1ea1ch g\u1ed1m Villeroy & Boch v\u00e0 c\u1ea7u thang l\u1edbn k\u1ebdo k\u1eb9t theo t\u1eebng b\u01b0\u1edbc ch\u00e2n. Nh\u01b0ng s\u1ef1 thanh l\u1ecbch c\u1ee7a t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m d\u1ecbu \u0111i b\u1edfi l\u1ecbch s\u1eed \u0111en t\u1ed1i c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. V\u00e0o th\u00e1ng 7 n\u0103m 1937, trong cu\u1ed9c thanh tr\u1eebng c\u1ee7a Stalin, nh\u00e0 th\u01a1 Paolo Iashvili \u0111\u00e3 t\u1ef1 s\u00e1t trong m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng ph\u00f2ng l\u00e0m vi\u1ec7c c\u1ee7a t\u00f2a nh\u00e0\u2014m\u1ed9t h\u00e0nh \u0111\u1ed9ng b\u1ea5t ch\u1ea5p v\u00e0 tuy\u1ec7t v\u1ecdng sau khi b\u1ecb bu\u1ed9c ph\u1ea3i l\u00ean \u00e1n nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u1ea1n \u0111\u1ed3ng nghi\u1ec7p l\u00e0 nh\u00e0 v\u0103n. Ng\u00f4i nh\u00e0 hi\u1ec7n c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng nh\u1ecf d\u00e0nh ri\u00eang cho c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 v\u0103n Gruzia b\u1ecb \u0111\u00e0n \u00e1p, v\u1edbi \u0111\u1ea7y \u0111\u1ee7 \u1ea3nh ch\u1ee5p, th\u01b0 t\u1eeb v\u00e0 \u1ea5n b\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean. B\u1ed9 s\u01b0u t\u1eadp kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ea7y \u0111\u1ee7. Kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ea7y \u0111\u1ee7. Nh\u01b0ng s\u1ef1 t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c t\u1eeb ch\u1ed1i\u2014ch\u1ed1ng l\u1ea1i s\u1ef1 im l\u1eb7ng, ch\u1ed1ng l\u1ea1i s\u1ef1 x\u00f3a s\u1ed5.<\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c n\u00e0y\u2014b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c h\u1ecdc, m\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt, th\u01a1 ca v\u00e0 l\u1ecbch s\u1eed\u2014l\u00e0m nhi\u1ec1u h\u01a1n l\u00e0 tr\u01b0ng b\u00e0y. Ch\u00fang ch\u1ee9ng minh. Ch\u00fang chi\u1ebfm m\u1ed9t v\u1ecb tr\u00ed trung gian kh\u00f3 kh\u0103n gi\u1eefa k\u1ef7 ni\u1ec7m v\u00e0 t\u00ednh li\u00ean t\u1ee5c, tr\u00ecnh b\u00e0y Gruzia kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc c\u1ed1 \u0111\u1ecbnh m\u00e0 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1t c\u00e1c b\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh t\u00edch l\u0169y: c\u1ed5 \u0111\u1ea1i, \u0111\u1ebf qu\u1ed1c, X\u00f4 Vi\u1ebft, h\u1eadu X\u00f4 Vi\u1ebft. Ch\u00fang c\u0169ng th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n m\u1ed9t m\u00e2u thu\u1eabn: \u0111\u1ed9ng l\u1ef1c b\u1ea3o t\u1ed3n th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1ea1nh nh\u1ea5t \u1edf nh\u1eefng n\u01a1i th\u01b0\u1eddng xuy\u00ean x\u1ea3y ra s\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ed5 v\u1ee1.<\/p>\n

C\u00e1c b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng \u1edf Tbilisi hi\u1ebfm khi c\u00f3 c\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bi\u00ean \u0111\u1ea1o. \u00c1nh s\u00e1ng kh\u00f4ng nh\u1ea5t qu\u00e1n. \u0110\u00f4i khi c\u00e1c m\u00f4 t\u1ea3 d\u1eebng l\u1ea1i gi\u1eefa c\u00e2u. Ki\u1ec3m so\u00e1t nhi\u1ec7t \u0111\u1ed9 l\u00e0 tham v\u1ecdng. Nh\u01b0ng nh\u1eefng \u0111i\u1ec3m kh\u00f4ng ho\u00e0n h\u1ea3o n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng l\u00e0m lu m\u1edd gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng g\u00ec \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u01b0u gi\u1eef. Thay v\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3, ch\u00fang nh\u1ea5n m\u1ea1nh n\u1ed7 l\u1ef1c. Trong m\u1ed9t khu v\u1ef1c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u b\u1edfi s\u1ef1 b\u1ea5t \u1ed5n ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb v\u00e0 h\u1ea1n ch\u1ebf kinh t\u1ebf, h\u00e0nh \u0111\u1ed9ng duy tr\u00ec m\u1ed9t b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng t\u1ef1 n\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t v\u1ecb tr\u00ed v\u0103n h\u00f3a.<\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng du kh\u00e1ch quen v\u1edbi c\u00e1c t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c b\u00f3ng b\u1ea9y c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 th\u1ea5y tr\u1ea3i nghi\u1ec7m n\u00e0y r\u1eddi r\u1ea1c. Nh\u01b0ng nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi tham gia c\u1ea9n th\u1eadn s\u1ebd th\u1ea5y m\u00ecnh b\u1ecb cu\u1ed1n v\u00e0o m\u1ed9t nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u kh\u00e1c - nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u m\u00e0 di s\u1ea3n kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ef1c hi\u1ec7n m\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c sinh s\u1ed1ng, n\u01a1i m\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed1i t\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u00edt quan tr\u1ecdng h\u01a1n s\u1ef1 t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a n\u00f3, v\u00e0 n\u01a1i m\u00e0 l\u1ecbch s\u1eed kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t cu\u1ed9c tri\u1ec3n l\u00e3m m\u00e0 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t \u0111i\u1ec1u ki\u1ec7n t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i.<\/p>\n

\u1ede Tbilisi, ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac c\u1ee7a k\u00fd \u1ee9c c\u0169ng l\u00e0 ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac c\u1ee7a m\u1ea5t m\u00e1t. Nh\u01b0ng n\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 bi ca. N\u00f3 l\u00e0 ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng, ng\u1eabu nhi\u00ean, \u0111ang di\u1ec5n ra.<\/p>\n

\u0110i l\u1ea1i \u1edf Tbilisi b\u1eb1ng t\u00e0u \u0111i\u1ec7n ng\u1ea7m, Marshrutka v\u00e0 \u0111i b\u1ed9<\/h2>\n

Di chuy\u1ec3n \u1edf Tbilisi l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t h\u00e0nh \u0111\u1ed9ng \u0111i\u1ec1u ch\u1ec9nh, kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 v\u1ec1 h\u01b0\u1edbng m\u00e0 c\u00f2n v\u1ec1 t\u00ednh kh\u00ed. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 kh\u00f4ng di\u1ec5n ra theo \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng th\u1eb3ng ho\u1eb7c nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u \u0111\u00fang gi\u1edd. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta kh\u00f4ng \u201c\u0111i l\u1ea1i\u201d \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y theo ngh\u0129a chu\u1ea9n h\u00f3a, m\u00e0 thay v\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3 l\u00e0 \u0111\u00e0m ph\u00e1n\u2014v\u1edbi th\u1eddi gian, kh\u00f4ng gian, th\u1eddi ti\u1ebft v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9 \u0111\u00e0n h\u1ed3i kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ecbnh l\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a c\u01a1 s\u1edf h\u1ea1 t\u1ea7ng. Qu\u00e1 c\u1ea3nh \u1edf Tbilisi l\u00e0 ng\u1eabu h\u1ee9ng, c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 d\u1ef1 \u0111o\u00e1n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n v\u00e0 ph\u1ee5 thu\u1ed9c s\u00e2u s\u1eafc v\u00e0o c\u00e1c m\u00e3 m\u1ec1m c\u1ee7a ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200bth\u1ee9c \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng.<\/p>\n

C\u1ed1t l\u00f5i c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 l\u00e0 Tbilisi Metro, m\u1ed9t h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng hai tuy\u1ebfn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1edf c\u1eeda v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1966, ti\u00eau bi\u1ec3u cho quy ho\u1ea1ch th\u1eddi Li\u00ean X\u00f4: s\u00e2u s\u1eafc, b\u1ec1n b\u1ec9 v\u00e0 mang t\u00ednh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng. Ki\u1ebfn tr\u00fac c\u1ee7a nhi\u1ec1u nh\u00e0 ga ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh s\u1ef1 r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng v\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t \u00fd th\u1ee9c h\u1ec7 c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea1i \u0111\u00f3\u2014h\u00e0nh lang \u0111\u00e1 c\u1ea9m th\u1ea1ch r\u1ed9ng, \u0111\u00e8n ch\u00f9m, bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng nh\u00e0 n\u01b0\u1edbc\u2014nh\u01b0ng ng\u00e0y nay, t\u00ednh th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 n\u00e0y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u1ee7 l\u00ean nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf \u0111\u1eddi th\u01b0\u1eddng h\u01a1n: bi\u1ec3n b\u00e1o LED, h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng thanh to\u00e1n kh\u00f4ng ti\u1ebfp x\u00fac v\u00e0 d\u00f2ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi qua l\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a sinh vi\u00ean, ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u00e1n h\u00e0ng rong v\u00e0 c\u00f4ng nh\u00e2n l\u00e0m ca \u0111\u00eam. C\u00e1c chuy\u1ebfn t\u00e0u ch\u1ea1y t\u1eeb s\u00e1u gi\u1edd s\u00e1ng \u0111\u1ebfn n\u1eeda \u0111\u00eam, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 tr\u00ean th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf, chuy\u1ebfn kh\u1edfi h\u00e0nh cu\u1ed1i c\u00f9ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 di\u1ec5n ra s\u1edbm nh\u1ea5t l\u00e0 11 gi\u1edd \u0111\u00eam, t\u00f9y thu\u1ed9c v\u00e0o nh\u00e0 ga.<\/p>\n

H\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng t\u00e0u \u0111i\u1ec7n ng\u1ea7m, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 c\u00f3 ph\u1ea1m vi ph\u1ee7 s\u00f3ng h\u1ea1n ch\u1ebf, v\u1eabn l\u00e0 ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 nh\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111i qua khu v\u1ef1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 r\u1ed9ng l\u1edbn. C\u00e1c tuy\u1ebfn m\u00e0u \u0111\u1ecf v\u00e0 xanh l\u00e1 c\u00e2y giao nhau t\u1ea1i Qu\u1ea3ng tr\u01b0\u1eddng Nh\u00e0 ga\u2014Sadguris Moedani\u2014v\u1eeba l\u00e0 nh\u00e0 ga trung t\u00e2m v\u1eeba l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t khu ch\u1ee3 ng\u1ea7m \u0111\u00f4ng \u0111\u00fac. H\u1ea7u h\u1ebft c\u00e1c bi\u1ec3n b\u00e1o \u0111\u1ec1u song ng\u1eef ti\u1ebfng Gruzia v\u00e0 ti\u1ebfng Anh, nh\u01b0ng c\u00e1ch ph\u00e1t \u00e2m, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi kh\u00f4ng quen v\u1edbi b\u1ea3ng ch\u1eef c\u00e1i ti\u1ebfng Gruzia, v\u1eabn l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00e2n \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 l\u1edbn tu\u1ed5i, n\u00f3i ti\u1ebfng Gruzia v\u00e0 ti\u1ebfng Nga; ti\u1ebfng Anh ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn h\u01a1n \u1edf nh\u1eefng h\u00e0nh kh\u00e1ch tr\u1ebb tu\u1ed5i. B\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ed3 th\u01b0\u1eddng kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 b\u00ean trong toa t\u00e0u, v\u00ec v\u1eady n\u00ean s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng b\u1ea3n in ho\u1eb7c \u1ee9ng d\u1ee5ng di \u0111\u1ed9ng. B\u1ea3n th\u00e2n c\u00e1c toa t\u00e0u kh\u00e1c nhau\u2014m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 c\u00f3 c\u1ed5ng USB, m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 kh\u00e1c v\u1eabn c\u00f2n rung l\u1eafc v\u1edbi c\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed3 \u0111\u1ea1c b\u1eb1ng s\u1eaft nguy\u00ean b\u1ea3n.<\/p>\n

B\u00ean ngo\u00e0i t\u00e0u \u0111i\u1ec7n ng\u1ea7m, xe bu\u00fdt \u0111\u00f3ng vai tr\u00f2 l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9ng m\u1ea1ch b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. Ch\u00fang m\u1edbi h\u01a1n t\u00e0u h\u1ecfa, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u01a1n m\u00e0u xanh l\u00e1 c\u00e2y v\u00e0 xanh lam t\u01b0\u01a1i s\u00e1ng v\u00e0 ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ed1 h\u00f3a. C\u00e1c \u0111i\u1ec3m d\u1eebng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c bi\u1ec3n b\u00e1o \u0111i\u1ec7n t\u1eed hi\u1ec3n th\u1ecb c\u00e1c chuy\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ebfn s\u1eafp t\u1edbi b\u1eb1ng ti\u1ebfng Gruzia v\u00e0 ti\u1ebfng Anh. Tuy nhi\u00ean, h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng n\u00e0y c\u00f2n l\u00e2u m\u1edbi tr\u01a1n tru. C\u00e1c tuy\u1ebfn \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng d\u00e0i v\u00e0 quanh co. Nhi\u1ec1u bi\u1ec3n b\u00e1o tr\u00ean c\u1eeda s\u1ed5 xe bu\u00fdt v\u1eabn ch\u1ec9 c\u00f3 ti\u1ebfng Gruzia v\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 t\u00e0i x\u1ebf \u0111\u1ec1u d\u1eebng l\u1ea1i tr\u1eeb khi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c g\u1eafn c\u1edd. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u00e9p v\u00e0o t\u1eeb b\u1ea5t k\u1ef3 c\u1eeda n\u00e0o v\u00e0 h\u00e0nh kh\u00e1ch ch\u1ea1m th\u1ebb Metromoney c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd - \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c mua v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t kho\u1ea3n ph\u00ed khi\u00eam t\u1ed1n t\u1ea1i b\u1ea5t k\u1ef3 ga t\u00e0u \u0111i\u1ec7n ng\u1ea7m n\u00e0o - \u0111\u1ec3 x\u00e1c nh\u1eadn h\u00e0nh tr\u00ecnh. Gi\u00e1 v\u00e9 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t lari, v\u1edbi d\u1ecbch v\u1ee5 chuy\u1ec3n tuy\u1ebfn mi\u1ec5n ph\u00ed trong v\u00f2ng ch\u00edn m\u01b0\u01a1i ph\u00fat, b\u1ea5t k\u1ec3 lo\u1ea1i xe n\u00e0o.<\/p>\n

Tuy nhi\u00ean, h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c giao th\u00f4ng c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng k\u1ef3 l\u1ea1 nh\u1ea5t l\u00e0 marshrutka, hay xe bu\u00fdt nh\u1ecf. Nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc xe bu\u00fdt \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3i t\u1ea1o n\u00e0y ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 c\u1ea3 c\u00e1c tuy\u1ebfn \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng trong th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 v\u00e0 khu v\u1ef1c. H\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng \u0111\u00e1nh s\u1ed1 c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang kh\u00e1c v\u1edbi c\u00e1c tuy\u1ebfn xe bu\u00fdt ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c v\u00e0 th\u00f4ng tin hi\u1ec3n th\u1ecb tr\u00ean k\u00ednh ch\u1eafn gi\u00f3 c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang th\u01b0\u1eddng qu\u00e1 m\u01a1 h\u1ed3 \u0111\u1ec3 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 h\u1eefu \u00edch n\u1ebfu kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200bth\u1ee9c v\u1ec1 ng\u1eef c\u1ea3nh. V\u00ed d\u1ee5, "Vake" c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 ch\u1ec9 ra m\u1ed9t h\u01b0\u1edbng chung thay v\u00ec m\u1ed9t con ph\u1ed1 c\u1ee5 th\u1ec3. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111i xe ra hi\u1ec7u marshrutkas theo \u00fd mu\u1ed1n, g\u1ecdi khi h\u1ecd mu\u1ed1n d\u1eebng l\u1ea1i\u2014th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 h\u00e9t l\u00ean "gaacheret"\u2014v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0a ti\u1ec1n m\u1eb7t cho t\u00e0i x\u1ebf, \u0111\u00f4i khi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c chuy\u1ec3n qua nh\u1eefng h\u00e0nh kh\u00e1ch kh\u00e1c. V\u0103n h\u00f3a c\u1ee7a marshrutkas l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng n\u1ec1n v\u0103n h\u00f3a ti\u1ebft ki\u1ec7m v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed3ng \u00fd ng\u1ea7m: \u00edt tr\u00f2 chuy\u1ec7n, \u00edt tho\u1ea3i m\u00e1i, nh\u01b0ng m\u1ed9t th\u1ecfa thu\u1eadn ng\u1ea7m r\u1eb1ng h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng, h\u1ea7u nh\u01b0 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3.<\/p>\n

Marshrutka c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u h\u1ea1n ch\u1ebf\u2014qu\u00e1 \u0111\u00f4ng \u0111\u00fac, thi\u1ebfu l\u01b0u th\u00f4ng kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed v\u00e0 b\u1ea3o tr\u00ec kh\u00f4ng nh\u1ea5t qu\u00e1n\u2014nh\u01b0ng ch\u00fang v\u1eabn kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 thi\u1ebfu, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 \u1edf nh\u1eefng khu v\u1ef1c kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 b\u1edfi t\u00e0u \u0111i\u1ec7n ng\u1ea7m. \u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi c\u01b0 d\u00e2n \u1edf c\u00e1c qu\u1eadn ngo\u1ea1i th\u00e0nh ho\u1eb7c khu \u0111\u1ecbnh c\u01b0 kh\u00f4ng ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c, marshrutka cung c\u1ea5p k\u1ebft n\u1ed1i \u0111\u00e1ng tin c\u1eady duy nh\u1ea5t v\u1edbi trung t\u00e2m kinh t\u1ebf c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. Tr\u00ean th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf, ch\u00fang l\u00e0 m\u1ea1ch m\u00e1u c\u1ee7a cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng ngo\u1ea1i vi.<\/p>\n

Taxi, tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c v\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ed3ng h\u1ed3 t\u00ednh ti\u1ec1n, \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf n\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c qu\u1ea3n l\u00fd ch\u1eb7t ch\u1ebd h\u01a1n v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 gia t\u0103ng c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c \u1ee9ng d\u1ee5ng g\u1ecdi xe nh\u01b0 Bolt, Yandex.Taxi v\u00e0 Maxim. C\u00e1c d\u1ecbch v\u1ee5 n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1eaft theo ti\u00eau chu\u1ea9n qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf, th\u01b0\u1eddng d\u01b0\u1edbi 1 lari cho m\u1ed7i km v\u00e0 \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t thi\u1ebft th\u1ef1c khi \u0111i theo nh\u00f3m ho\u1eb7c khi ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n giao th\u00f4ng c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng ng\u1eebng ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u00e0o ban \u0111\u00eam. Tuy nhi\u00ean, ngay c\u1ea3 v\u1edbi c\u00e1c \u1ee9ng d\u1ee5ng n\u00e0y, th\u00f3i quen c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00e2n \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1eabn t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i. T\u00e0i x\u1ebf c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 d\u1eebng l\u1ea1i \u0111\u1ec3 h\u1ecfi \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111i b\u1ed9 ho\u1eb7c \u0111\u1ed5i h\u01b0\u1edbng m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng b\u00e1o tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u00e1nh \u00f9n t\u1eafc giao th\u00f4ng, \u1ed5 g\u00e0 ho\u1eb7c \u0111\u00f3ng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng kh\u00f4ng ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c. GPS \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng linh ho\u1ea1t. \u0110\u00e0m ph\u00e1n v\u1eabn l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t k\u1ef9 n\u0103ng \u0111\u00e1ng \u0111\u1ec3 duy tr\u00ec.<\/p>\n

\u0110i b\u1ed9 c\u00f3 l\u1ebd v\u1eabn l\u00e0 c\u00e1ch g\u1ea7n g\u0169i nh\u1ea5t, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 kh\u00f3 \u0111o\u00e1n nh\u1ea5t, \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u1ea3i nghi\u1ec7m Tbilisi. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00fac n\u00e0o c\u0169ng th\u00e2n thi\u1ec7n v\u1edbi ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111i b\u1ed9. V\u1ec9a h\u00e8 kh\u00f4ng b\u1eb1ng ph\u1eb3ng ho\u1eb7c kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 \u1edf nhi\u1ec1u khu v\u1ef1c, th\u01b0\u1eddng xuy\u00ean b\u1ecb c\u1ea3n tr\u1edf b\u1edfi \u00f4 t\u00f4 \u0111\u1ed7, \u0111\u1ed3 n\u1ed9i th\u1ea5t qu\u00e1n c\u00e0 ph\u00ea ho\u1eb7c m\u1ea3nh v\u1ee1 x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng. C\u00f3 l\u1ed1i \u0111i d\u00e0nh cho ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111i b\u1ed9, nh\u01b0ng vi\u1ec7c th\u1ef1c thi quy\u1ec1n \u01b0u ti\u00ean kh\u00f4ng nh\u1ea5t qu\u00e1n; nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi l\u00e1i xe coi ch\u00fang l\u00e0 g\u1ee3i \u00fd. Tuy nhi\u00ean, \u0111i b\u1ed9 mang l\u1ea1i \u0111i\u1ec1u m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n giao th\u00f4ng n\u00e0o kh\u00e1c c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u00e0m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c: tr\u1ea3i nghi\u1ec7m tr\u1ef1c ti\u1ebfp v\u1ec1 cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta \u0111i\u1ec1u h\u01b0\u1edbng \u0111\u1ecba h\u00ecnh c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c gi\u00e1c quan\u2014\u0111\u00e1 d\u01b0\u1edbi ch\u00e2n, kh\u00f3i thu\u1ed1c l\u00e1 trong kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed, ti\u1ebfng tr\u00f2 chuy\u1ec7n c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc b\u00e0n c\u00e0 ph\u00ea, m\u00f9i rau m\u00f9i, d\u1ea7u diesel v\u00e0 qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o gi\u1eb7t.<\/p>\n

M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 khu ph\u1ed1\u2014Sololaki, Mtatsminda, Tbilisi c\u1ed5\u2014th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n r\u00f5 nh\u1ea5t s\u1ef1 ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang khi \u0111i b\u1ed9. Nh\u1eefng con h\u1ebbm h\u1eb9p v\u00e0 c\u1ea7u thang d\u1ed1c c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 ti\u1ebfp c\u1eadn b\u1eb1ng xe c\u1ed9 v\u00e0 xe bu\u00fdt kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ec3 \u00fd. \u0110i b\u1ed9 \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 \u0111i l\u1ea1i m\u00e0 c\u00f2n l\u00e0 g\u1eb7p g\u1ee1: v\u1edbi ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac ng\u1eabu h\u1ee9ng, v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ch\u00fa ch\u00f3 hoang \u0111ang t\u1eafm n\u1eafng tr\u00ean b\u00ea t\u00f4ng \u1ea5m \u00e1p, v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi h\u00e0ng x\u00f3m chia s\u1ebb qu\u1ea3 \u00f3c ch\u00f3 t\u1eeb m\u1ed9t c\u00e1i x\u00f4 \u0111\u1eb7t tr\u00ean b\u1ec7 c\u1eeda s\u1ed5.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ea1p xe, tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u00e2y g\u1ea7n nh\u01b0 kh\u00f4ng t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i, \u0111ang d\u1ea7n thu h\u00fat \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ef1 ch\u00fa \u00fd. C\u00e1c tuy\u1ebfn \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng d\u00e0nh ri\u00eang cho xe \u0111\u1ea1p \u0111\u00e3 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n \u1edf nh\u1eefng khu v\u1ef1c nh\u01b0 Vake v\u00e0 Saburtalo. M\u1ed9t c\u00f4ng ty d\u1ecbch v\u1ee5 di chuy\u1ec3n \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng, Qari, cung c\u1ea5p d\u1ecbch v\u1ee5 cho thu\u00ea xe \u0111\u1ea1p d\u1ef1a tr\u00ean \u1ee9ng d\u1ee5ng, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 giao di\u1ec7n ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00f9ng v\u00e0 h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng thanh to\u00e1n \u01b0u ti\u00ean c\u01b0 d\u00e2n h\u01a1n l\u00e0 du kh\u00e1ch ng\u1eafn h\u1ea1n. M\u1ed9t b\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ed3 \u0111\u1ea1p xe an to\u00e0n do c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng l\u00e3nh \u0111\u1ea1o c\u1ed1 g\u1eafng \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u c\u00e1c tuy\u1ebfn \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng kh\u1ea3 thi nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, nh\u01b0ng \u0111i\u1ec1u ki\u1ec7n v\u1eabn c\u00f2n xa m\u1edbi l\u00fd t\u01b0\u1edfng. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi l\u00e1i xe ph\u1ea7n l\u1edbn kh\u00f4ng quen v\u1edbi vi\u1ec7c chia s\u1ebb l\u00e0n \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng v\u00e0 m\u1eb7t \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 \u0111o\u00e1n tr\u01b0\u1edbc. Tuy nhi\u00ean, \u0111\u1ea1p xe mang l\u1ea1i s\u1ef1 nhanh nh\u1eb9n v\u00f4 song trong l\u01b0u l\u01b0\u1ee3ng giao th\u00f4ng cao \u0111i\u1ec3m v\u00e0 ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c sinh vi\u00ean, nh\u00e0 m\u00f4i tr\u01b0\u1eddng v\u00e0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111i l\u00e0m ki\u00ean quy\u1ebft \u1ee7ng h\u1ed9.<\/p>\n

C\u00e1c c\u00f4ng ty cho thu\u00ea xe tay ga\u2014trong \u0111\u00f3 c\u00f3 Bolt, Bird v\u00e0 Qari\u2014\u0111\u00e3 ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n m\u1ea1nh trong nh\u1eefng n\u0103m g\u1ea7n \u0111\u00e2y. S\u1ef1 hi\u1ec7n di\u1ec7n c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd d\u1ec5 th\u1ea5y nh\u1ea5t \u1edf c\u00e1c khu v\u1ef1c trung t\u00e2m, n\u01a1i c\u00e1c nh\u00f3m xe tay ga t\u1ee5 t\u1eadp g\u1ea7n c\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecba danh du l\u1ecbch ho\u1eb7c h\u00e0nh lang gi\u1ea3i tr\u00ed v\u1ec1 \u0111\u00eam. C\u0169ng gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 xe \u0111\u1ea1p, vi\u1ec7c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng ch\u00fang v\u1eabn b\u1ecb h\u1ea1n ch\u1ebf b\u1edfi c\u00e1c kho\u1ea3ng c\u00e1ch v\u1ec1 c\u01a1 s\u1edf h\u1ea1 t\u1ea7ng v\u00e0 v\u0103n h\u00f3a l\u00e1i xe \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng. Ngo\u00e0i ra c\u00f2n c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng \u0111i\u1ec3m m\u01a1 h\u1ed3 v\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t ph\u00e1p l\u00fd: vi\u1ec7c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng m\u0169 b\u1ea3o hi\u1ec3m r\u1ea5t hi\u1ebfm, c\u00e1c khu v\u1ef1c d\u00e0nh cho ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111i b\u1ed9 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00f4n tr\u1ecdng m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch nh\u1ea5t qu\u00e1n v\u00e0 ph\u1ea1m vi b\u1ea3o hi\u1ec3m kh\u00f4ng r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng. Tuy nhi\u00ean, \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng qu\u00e3ng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ng\u1eafn v\u00e0 th\u1eddi ti\u1ebft thu\u1eadn l\u1ee3i, xe tay ga cung c\u1ea5p gi\u1ea3i ph\u00e1p di chuy\u1ec3n nhanh ch\u00f3ng m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 mong manh.<\/p>\n

Xe h\u01a1i, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 c\u00f3 \u1edf kh\u1eafp m\u1ecdi n\u01a1i, th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 c\u00e1ch k\u00e9m hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3 nh\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ec3 di chuy\u1ec3n trong trung t\u00e2m th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. B\u00e3i \u0111\u1eadu xe khan hi\u1ebfm v\u00e0 h\u1ed7n lo\u1ea1n. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi tr\u00f4ng xe kh\u00f4ng ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c, m\u1eb7c \u00e1o ph\u1ea3n quang, xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n t\u1eeb h\u01b0 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ec3 h\u01b0\u1edbng d\u1eabn ng\u01b0\u1eddi l\u00e1i xe v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng ch\u1ed7 ch\u1eadt h\u1eb9p nguy hi\u1ec3m \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ed5i l\u1ea5y m\u1ed9t kho\u1ea3n ti\u1ec1n boa nh\u1ecf. C\u00e1c quy \u0111\u1ecbnh \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ef1c thi l\u1ecfng l\u1ebbo v\u00e0 t\u00ecnh tr\u1ea1ng \u0111\u1ed7 xe song song l\u00e0 ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn. \u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi kh\u00f4ng quen v\u1edbi \u0111\u1ecba h\u00ecnh, vi\u1ec7c \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u01b0\u1edbng sai b\u1eb1ng GPS kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 hi\u1ebfm\u2014\u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 \u1edf c\u00e1c qu\u1eadn \u0111\u1ed3i n\u00fai ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p, n\u01a1i c\u00e1c con ph\u1ed1 h\u1eb9p l\u1ea1i th\u00e0nh c\u1ea7u thang.<\/p>\n

Tuy nhi\u00ean, t\u00ednh di \u0111\u1ed9ng \u1edf Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 v\u1ec1 t\u1ed1c \u0111\u1ed9 m\u00e0 l\u00e0 v\u1ec1 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng ph\u1ee5c h\u1ed3i. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 kh\u00f4ng \u01b0u ti\u00ean hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3. N\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ea3m b\u1ea3o \u0111\u00fang gi\u1edd. N\u00f3 \u0111\u00f2i h\u1ecfi s\u1ef1 ki\u00ean nh\u1eabn, kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng th\u00edch \u1ee9ng v\u00e0 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng \u1ee9ng ph\u00f3 v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng \u0111i\u1ec1u b\u1ea5t ng\u1edd. C\u00e1c tuy\u1ebfn \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng linh ho\u1ea1t. L\u1ecbch tr\u00ecnh ch\u1ec9 mang t\u00ednh t\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0111\u1ed1i. Nh\u01b0ng \u1ea9n sau s\u1ef1 b\u1ea5t th\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e0y l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 ki\u00ean \u0111\u1ecbnh s\u00e2u s\u1eafc h\u01a1n: s\u1ef1 di chuy\u1ec3n v\u1eabn ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c, b\u1ea5t ch\u1ea5p nh\u1eefng tr\u1edf ng\u1ea1i. M\u1ecdi ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u1ec1u t\u00ecm ra c\u00e1ch.<\/p>\n

Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng d\u1ea1y du kh\u00e1ch c\u00e1ch di chuy\u1ec3n t\u1eeb n\u01a1i n\u00e0y \u0111\u1ebfn n\u01a1i kh\u00e1c, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 c\u00e1ch l\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng\u2014\u0111\u1ec3 nh\u1eadn ra, ch\u1edd \u0111\u1ee3i, th\u00edch nghi. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 ch\u1ed1ng l\u1ea1i s\u1ef1 t\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ed9ng h\u00f3a. M\u1ed7i chuy\u1ebfn \u0111i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t cu\u1ed9c di\u1ec5n t\u1eadp trong qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh \u0111\u00e0m ph\u00e1n c\u1ee7a con ng\u01b0\u1eddi.<\/p>\n

Ch\u1ee3 v\u00e0 T\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u00e0i: N\u01a1i Th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i G\u1eb7p g\u1ee1 K\u00fd \u1ee9c<\/h2>\n

Trung t\u00e2m kinh t\u1ebf c\u1ee7a Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecbnh b\u1edfi c\u00e1c t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 ch\u1ecdc tr\u1eddi hay c\u00e1c trung t\u00e2m th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i c\u00f3 m\u1eb7t ti\u1ec1n b\u1eb1ng k\u00ednh, m\u00e0 b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng n\u01a1i giao d\u1ecbch v\u00e0 k\u00fd \u1ee9c giao thoa: c\u00e1c khu ch\u1ee3, c\u00e1c di t\u00edch c\u1ed5 x\u01b0a, nh\u1eefng con ph\u1ed1 n\u01a1i th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i v\u1eabn di\u1ec5n ra ngo\u00e0i tr\u1eddi. Nh\u1eefng kh\u00f4ng gian n\u00e0y ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1\u2014kh\u00f4ng \u0111i\u00ean cu\u1ed3ng c\u0169ng kh\u00f4ng t\u0129nh t\u1ea1i, nh\u01b0ng lu\u00f4n n\u0103ng \u0111\u1ed9ng, ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n theo t\u1ed1c \u0111\u1ed9 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecbnh nhi\u1ec1u h\u01a1n b\u1edfi logic x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i h\u01a1n l\u00e0 logic kinh t\u1ebf.<\/p>\n

N\u1eb1m \u1edf trung t\u00e2m c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 n\u0103ng \u0111\u1ed9ng n\u00e0y l\u00e0 Dezerter Bazaar, m\u1ed9t khu ph\u1ee9c h\u1ee3p h\u1ed7n lo\u1ea1n, r\u1ed9ng l\u1edbn n\u1eb1m c\u1ea1nh Station Square. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eb7t theo t\u00ean c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u00e0o ng\u0169 trong qu\u00e2n \u0111\u1ed9i Nga th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 19 \u0111\u00e3 t\u1eebng b\u00e1n h\u1ebft \u0111\u1ed3 \u0111\u1ea1c c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y, khu ch\u1ee3 ng\u00e0y nay kinh doanh m\u1ecdi th\u1ee9 kh\u00e1c: n\u00f4ng s\u1ea3n, gia v\u1ecb, s\u1eefa, th\u1ecbt, d\u1ee5ng c\u1ee5, qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o, \u0111\u1ed3 \u0111i\u1ec7n t\u1eed nh\u00e1i, x\u00f4 v\u00e0 \u0111\u0129a DVD l\u1eadu. Kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 l\u1ed1i v\u00e0o m\u1ea1ch l\u1ea1c. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta \u0111\u1ebfn theo b\u1ea3n n\u0103ng ho\u1eb7c theo d\u00f2ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi, \u0111i xu\u1ed1ng m\u1ed9t m\u1ea1ng l\u01b0\u1edbi m\u00e1i hi\u00ean v\u00e0 qu\u1ea7y h\u00e0ng, l\u1ed1i \u0111i v\u00e0 b\u00f3ng t\u1ed1i.<\/p>\n

\u1ede Dezerter, ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef, m\u00f9i h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u00e0 k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u va ch\u1ea1m nhau. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u00e1n h\u00e0ng rao b\u00e1n b\u1eb1ng ti\u1ebfng Gruzia, ti\u1ebfng Nga, ti\u1ebfng Azeri v\u00e0 ti\u1ebfng Armenia. Nh\u1eefng kim t\u1ef1 th\u00e1p c\u00e0 chua l\u1ea5p l\u00e1nh b\u00ean c\u1ea1nh nh\u1eefng th\u00f9ng jonjoli ng\u00e2m. \u1ede m\u1ed9t l\u1ed1i \u0111i, rau m\u00f9i v\u00e0 ng\u1ea3i gi\u1ea5m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ea5t th\u00e0nh t\u1eebng b\u00f3; \u1edf m\u1ed9t l\u1ed1i \u0111i kh\u00e1c, nh\u1eefng mi\u1ebfng th\u1ecbt s\u1ed1ng treo l\u1ee7ng l\u1eb3ng sau t\u1ea5m nh\u1ef1a. S\u00e0n nh\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng b\u1eb1ng ph\u1eb3ng. Kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 v\u00e0o m\u00f9a h\u00e8, tr\u1edf n\u00ean \u0111\u1eb7c l\u1ea1i v\u00ec n\u00f3ng v\u00e0 l\u00ean men. Gi\u00e1 c\u1ea3 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 th\u01b0\u01a1ng l\u01b0\u1ee3ng, nh\u01b0ng nghi l\u1ec5 quan tr\u1ecdng h\u01a1n l\u00e0 gi\u1ea3m gi\u00e1. M\u1ed9t c\u00e1i g\u1eadt \u0111\u1ea7u, m\u1ed9t m\u1eabu h\u00e0ng, m\u1ed9t b\u00ecnh lu\u1eadn chung v\u1ec1 th\u1eddi ti\u1ebft ho\u1eb7c ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb: th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y l\u00e0 v\u0169 \u0111\u1ea1o x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i.<\/p>\n

B\u00ean ngo\u00e0i h\u1ed9i tr\u01b0\u1eddng ch\u00ednh, nh\u1eefng khu ch\u1ee3 nh\u1ecf h\u01a1n tr\u00e0n v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng con ph\u1ed1 xung quanh. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u00e1n h\u00e0ng rong x\u1ebfp h\u00e0ng tr\u00ean v\u1ec9a h\u00e8 v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng th\u00f9ng nh\u1ef1a v\u00e0 v\u1ea3i, b\u00e1n qu\u1ea3 m\u1ecdng trong nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc c\u1ed1c nh\u1ef1a, r\u01b0\u1ee3u t\u1ef1 l\u00e0m trong nh\u1eefng chai soda t\u00e1i s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng ho\u1eb7c nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc t\u1ea5t x\u1ebfp ch\u1ed3ng theo m\u00e0u s\u1eafc v\u00e0 k\u00edch c\u1ee1. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef l\u1edbn tu\u1ed5i b\u00e1n c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i th\u1ea3o m\u1ed9c t\u1eeb khu v\u01b0\u1eddn c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng b\u00e1n \u0111i\u1ec7n tho\u1ea1i di \u0111\u1ed9ng \u0111\u00e3 qua s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng qu\u1ea7y h\u00e0ng t\u1ea1m b\u1ee3 l\u00e0m t\u1eeb th\u00f9ng v\u00e0 b\u00eca c\u1ee9ng. Kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 ph\u00e2n v\u00f9ng, kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 ph\u00e2n bi\u1ec7t gi\u1eefa th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i h\u1ee3p ph\u00e1p v\u00e0 phi ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c. M\u1ecdi th\u1ee9 \u0111\u1ec1u t\u1ea1m th\u1eddi, nh\u01b0ng ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n quen thu\u1ed9c.<\/p>\n

C\u00e1c ch\u1ee3 kh\u00e1c c\u00f3 s\u1ed5 \u0111\u0103ng k\u00fd ri\u00eang. Ch\u1ee3 Dry Bridge, n\u1eb1m d\u1ecdc theo S\u00f4ng Mtkvari g\u1ea7n \u0110\u1ea1i l\u1ed9 Rustaveli, t\u1eeb l\u00e2u \u0111\u00e3 l\u00e0 trung t\u00e2m \u0111\u1ed3 c\u1ed5 phi ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c c\u1ee7a Tbilisi. Ban \u0111\u1ea7u l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ch\u1ee3 tr\u1eddi th\u1eddi Li\u00ean X\u00f4, gi\u1edd \u0111\u00e2y k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p gi\u1eefa ho\u00e0i ni\u1ec7m, ti\u1ec7n \u00edch v\u00e0 ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c \u0111\u00e1ng ng\u1edd. V\u00e0o cu\u1ed1i tu\u1ea7n, nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u00e1n h\u00e0ng b\u00e0y h\u00e0ng h\u00f3a c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd tr\u00ean ch\u0103n ho\u1eb7c nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc b\u00e0n \u1ecdp \u1eb9p: m\u00e1y \u1ea3nh c\u1ed5, huy ch\u01b0\u01a1ng Li\u00ean X\u00f4, t\u01b0\u1ee3ng s\u1ee9, \u0111\u1ed3 thu nh\u1ecf Ba T\u01b0, m\u00e1y h\u00e1t \u0111\u0129a, dao, bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng v\u1ebd tay v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng cu\u1ed1n s\u00e1ch n\u1eb1m r\u1ea3i r\u00e1c b\u1eb1ng ch\u1eef Kirin. M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 m\u1eb7t h\u00e0ng l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed3 gia truy\u1ec1n. Nh\u1eefng m\u1eb7t h\u00e0ng kh\u00e1c l\u00e0 t\u00e0n t\u00edch s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t h\u00e0ng lo\u1ea1t c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ed3 s\u1ebfn s\u00faa Li\u00ean X\u00f4. R\u1ea5t \u00edt m\u1eb7t h\u00e0ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u00e1n nh\u00e3n; h\u1ea7u h\u1ebft \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u00e1n k\u00e8m theo nh\u1eefng c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ef1c h\u00e0nh c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 ho\u1eb7c kh\u00f4ng t\u01b0\u01a1ng \u1ee9ng v\u1edbi th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf.<\/p>\n

Ch\u1ee3 v\u1eeba l\u00e0 b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng k\u00fd \u1ee9c c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n v\u1eeba l\u00e0 n\u01a1i bu\u00f4n b\u00e1n. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi xem kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00fac n\u00e0o c\u0169ng mua. H\u1ecd lang thang, xem x\u00e9t, h\u1ecfi. C\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed3 v\u1eadt tr\u1ea3i qua nhi\u1ec1u \u00fd ngh\u0129a tr\u01b0\u1edbc khi \u0111\u1ed5i ch\u1ee7. M\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc th\u00eca b\u1ea1c c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 thu\u1ed9c v\u1ec1 m\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u00e0, ho\u1eb7c kh\u00f4ng thu\u1ed9c v\u1ec1 ai c\u1ea3. M\u1ed9t ch\u1ed3ng b\u01b0u thi\u1ebfp t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1970 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u00e0 t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 nh\u1eefng g\u00ec c\u00f2n s\u00f3t l\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t khu ngh\u1ec9 m\u00e1t ven bi\u1ec3n \u0111\u00e3 bi\u1ebfn m\u1ea5t. M\u1eb7c c\u1ea3 l\u00e0 \u0111i\u1ec1u b\u00ecnh th\u01b0\u1eddng, nh\u01b0ng kh\u00f4ng hung h\u0103ng. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u00e1n h\u00e0ng, nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi trong s\u1ed1 h\u1ecd l\u00e0 \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng l\u1edbn tu\u1ed5i, n\u00f3i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ee9 ti\u1ebfng\u2014ti\u1ebfng Gruzia, ti\u1ebfng Nga, m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 ng\u01b0\u1eddi n\u00f3i ti\u1ebfng \u0110\u1ee9c ho\u1eb7c ti\u1ebfng Anh. C\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n c\u1ee7a gi\u00e1 c\u1ea3.<\/p>\n

Kh\u00f4ng xa, Trung t\u00e2m th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i Tbilisi v\u00e0 khu ph\u1ee9c h\u1ee3p East Point\u2014c\u00e1c trung t\u00e2m b\u00e1n l\u1ebb l\u1ea5p l\u00e1nh \u1edf ngo\u1ea1i vi th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1\u2014mang \u0111\u1ebfn m\u1ed9t m\u00f4 h\u00ecnh th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i t\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u1ea3n. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c ki\u1ec3m so\u00e1t kh\u00ed h\u1eadu, c\u00f3 th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u, b\u1ed1 tr\u00ed theo thu\u1eadt to\u00e1n, ch\u00fang ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 cho t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp trung l\u01b0u \u0111ang ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n. C\u00e1c trung t\u00e2m th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i n\u00e0y c\u00f3 c\u00e1c c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng nh\u01b0\u1ee3ng quy\u1ec1n qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf, r\u1ea1p chi\u1ebfu phim ph\u1ee9c h\u1ee3p v\u00e0 b\u00e3i \u0111\u1eadu xe c\u00f3 k\u00edch th\u01b0\u1edbc b\u1eb1ng nh\u1eefng ng\u00f4i l\u00e0ng nh\u1ecf. Ki\u1ebfn tr\u00fac c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang l\u00e0 h\u1eadu ch\u1ee9c n\u0103ng, c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 ho\u00e1n \u0111\u1ed5i v\u1edbi Warsaw, Dubai ho\u1eb7c Belgrade. \u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 ng\u01b0\u1eddi Gruzia, nh\u1eefng kh\u00f4ng gian n\u00e0y t\u01b0\u1ee3ng tr\u01b0ng cho s\u1ef1 ti\u1ec7n l\u1ee3i v\u00e0 hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i; \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi kh\u00e1c, ch\u00fang v\u00f4 tr\u00f9ng, t\u00e1ch bi\u1ec7t kh\u1ecfi s\u1ef1 th\u00e2n m\u1eadt x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i c\u1ee7a th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng. Ch\u00fang v\u1eabn ch\u01b0a \u0111\u1ecbnh ngh\u0129a \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00e2m h\u1ed3n c\u1ee7a Tbilisi\u2014nh\u01b0ng ch\u00fang \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u nh\u1eefng kh\u00e1t v\u1ecdng thay \u0111\u1ed5i c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1.<\/p>\n

Gi\u1eefa nh\u1eefng c\u1ef1c n\u00e0y\u2014ch\u1ee3 v\u00e0 trung t\u00e2m th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i\u2014l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng nh\u1ecf trong khu ph\u1ed1 c\u1ee7a Tbilisi: sakhli v\u00e0 magazia, nh\u1eefng c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng tr\u00ean ph\u1ed1 neo gi\u1eef cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng. H\u1ecd b\u00e1n b\u00e1nh m\u00ec, thu\u1ed1c l\u00e1, di\u00eam, soda, d\u1ea7u h\u01b0\u1edbng d\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u00e0 v\u00e9 s\u1ed1. Nhi\u1ec1u c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1edbi \u00edt bi\u1ec3n hi\u1ec7u, d\u1ef1a v\u00e0o s\u1ef1 quen thu\u1ed9c c\u1ee7a c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng. Tr\u1ebb em \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c g\u1eedi \u0111i mua gi\u1ea5m ho\u1eb7c mu\u1ed1i. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi v\u1ec1 h\u01b0u n\u00e1n l\u1ea1i \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00e1n g\u1eabu. Gi\u00e1 c\u1ea3 kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00fac n\u00e0o c\u0169ng c\u1ea1nh tranh, nh\u01b0ng s\u1ef1 hi\u1ec7n di\u1ec7n c\u1ee7a con ng\u01b0\u1eddi th\u00ec v\u00f4 gi\u00e1.<\/p>\n

Th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i \u1edf Tbilisi, d\u00f9 l\u00e0 c\u1ed5 x\u01b0a hay ng\u1eabu h\u1ee9ng, hi\u1ebfm khi t\u00e1ch bi\u1ec7t kh\u1ecfi c\u1ea3m x\u00fac. Mua th\u1ef1c ph\u1ea9m kh\u00f4ng bao gi\u1edd ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 mua s\u1eafm. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed1i tho\u1ea1i. M\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u00e1n h\u00e0ng \u1edf ch\u1ee3 s\u1ebd h\u1ecfi b\u1ea1n \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1eeb \u0111\u00e2u, nh\u1eadn x\u00e9t v\u1ec1 c\u00e1ch ph\u00e1t \u00e2m c\u1ee7a b\u1ea1n, m\u1eddi b\u1ea1n m\u1ed9t l\u00e1t t\u00e1o ho\u1eb7c m\u1ed9t n\u1eafm \u0111\u1eadu \u0111\u1ec3 th\u1eed. M\u1ed9t b\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111i sai l\u1ea7m\u2014ch\u1ea1m v\u00e0o tr\u00e1i c\u00e2y m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u00e9p, c\u1ed1 g\u1eafng m\u1eb7c c\u1ea3 qu\u00e1 s\u1edbm\u2014c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 khi\u1ebfn b\u1ea1n ph\u1ea3i nh\u01b0\u1edbng m\u00e0y, nh\u01b0ng h\u1ea7u nh\u01b0 lu\u00f4n l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 s\u1eeda ch\u1eefa thay v\u00ec khi\u1ec3n tr\u00e1ch. C\u00f3 ph\u00e9p l\u1ecbch s\u1ef1, ngay c\u1ea3 trong h\u1ed7n lo\u1ea1n.<\/p>\n

V\u00e0 ngo\u00e0i c\u00e1c khu ch\u1ee3, c\u00e1c t\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u00e0i nh\u1ea5n m\u1ea1nh n\u1ec1n kinh t\u1ebf t\u01b0\u1edfng ni\u1ec7m c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. Bi\u00ean ni\u00ean s\u1eed Georgia, n\u1eb1m tr\u00ean m\u1ed9t ng\u1ecdn \u0111\u1ed3i g\u1ea7n Bi\u1ec3n Tbilisi, l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng c\u00f4ng tr\u00ecnh c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng \u00edt \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gh\u00e9 th\u0103m nh\u1ea5t nh\u01b0ng l\u1ea1i mang t\u00ednh t\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u00e0i c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf b\u1edfi Zurab Tsereteli v\u00e0 b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1980, c\u00f4ng tr\u00ecnh n\u00e0y v\u1eabn ch\u01b0a ho\u00e0n th\u00e0nh nh\u01b0ng r\u1ea5t \u1ea5n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng. Nh\u1eefng c\u1ed9t \u0111\u00e1 bazan kh\u1ed5ng l\u1ed3 - m\u1ed7i c\u1ed9t cao hai m\u01b0\u01a1i m\u00e9t - \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ea1m kh\u1eafc c\u00e1c c\u1ea3nh trong l\u1ecbch s\u1eed Gruzia v\u00e0 c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n trong Kinh th\u00e1nh. \u0110\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m n\u00e0y th\u01b0\u1eddng tr\u1ed1ng r\u1ed7ng, ngo\u1ea1i tr\u1eeb m\u1ed9t v\u00e0i nh\u00f3m ti\u1ec7c c\u01b0\u1edbi ho\u1eb7c nhi\u1ebfp \u1ea3nh gia \u0111\u01a1n \u0111\u1ed9c. Quy m\u00f4 c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 l\u00e0m lu m\u1edd ng\u01b0\u1eddi xem. T\u00ednh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 c\u1ed1 g\u1eafng t\u1ed5ng h\u1ee3p: nh\u00e0 n\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 kinh th\u00e1nh, vua v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 \u0111\u00f3ng \u0111inh.<\/p>\n

G\u1ea7n trung t\u00e2m th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 h\u01a1n, c\u00e1c t\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u00e0i v\u1ec1 ch\u1ea5n th\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u00e0 chi\u1ebfn th\u1eafng c\u1ee7a th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 20 r\u1ea3i r\u00e1c kh\u1eafp n\u01a1i. \u0110\u00e0i t\u01b0\u1edfng ni\u1ec7m Th\u1ea3m k\u1ecbch ng\u00e0y 9 th\u00e1ng 4, n\u01a1i nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi bi\u1ec3u t\u00ecnh \u00f4n h\u00f2a \u1ee7ng h\u1ed9 \u0111\u1ed9c l\u1eadp \u0111\u00e3 b\u1ecb qu\u00e2n \u0111\u1ed9i Li\u00ean X\u00f4 gi\u1ebft h\u1ea1i v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1989, n\u1eb1m g\u1ea7n Qu\u1ed1c h\u1ed9i. N\u00f3 \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n, kh\u00f4ng \u1ee7y m\u1ecb: m\u1ed9t t\u1ea3ng \u0111\u00e1 \u0111en th\u1ea5p kh\u1eafc t\u00ean v\u00e0 ng\u00e0y th\u00e1ng. Hoa \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eb7t \u1edf \u0111\u00f3 m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 ph\u00f4 tr\u01b0\u01a1ng. \u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m du l\u1ecbch, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t tr\u1ee5c c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng.<\/p>\n

M\u1ed1i quan h\u1ec7 c\u1ee7a Tbilisi v\u1edbi k\u00fd \u1ee9c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh b\u1edfi s\u1ef1 t\u00edch l\u0169y, kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i s\u1ef1 tuy\u1ec3n ch\u1ecdn. Qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00f3ng g\u00f3i. N\u00f3 c\u00f9ng t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i v\u1edbi hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i\u2014th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 v\u1ee5ng v\u1ec1, \u0111\u00f4i khi v\u00f4 h\u00ecnh, nh\u01b0ng lu\u00f4n lu\u00f4n dai d\u1eb3ng. B\u1ea1n mua c\u00e0 chua b\u00ean c\u1ea1nh \u0111\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ed5 n\u00e1t c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t nh\u00e0 th\u1edd Armenia. B\u1ea1n t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm s\u00e1ch tr\u00ean m\u1ed9t qu\u1ea3ng tr\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eb7t theo t\u00ean c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t v\u1ecb t\u01b0\u1edbng \u0111\u00e3 thay \u0111\u1ed5i l\u00f2ng trung th\u00e0nh. B\u1ea1n \u0111\u1ed7 xe g\u1ea7n n\u1ec1n m\u00f3ng c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t ph\u00e1o \u0111\u00e0i. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 kh\u00f4ng y\u00eau c\u1ea7u b\u1ea1n ch\u00fa \u00fd \u0111\u1ebfn nh\u1eefng giao l\u1ed9 n\u00e0y. Nh\u01b0ng n\u1ebfu b\u1ea1n ch\u00fa \u00fd, tr\u1ea3i nghi\u1ec7m s\u1ebd s\u00e2u s\u1eafc h\u01a1n.<\/p>\n

Ch\u1ee3 v\u00e0 t\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u00e0i kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed1i l\u1eadp \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y. Ch\u00fang ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng tr\u00ean c\u00f9ng m\u1ed9t chu\u1ed7i li\u00ean t\u1ee5c. C\u1ea3 hai \u0111\u1ec1u li\u00ean quan \u0111\u1ebfn vi\u1ec7c b\u1ea3o t\u1ed3n\u2014kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i trong h\u1ed5 ph\u00e1ch, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 trong qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng. C\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed3 v\u1eadt, kh\u00f4ng gian v\u00e0 c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n l\u01b0u th\u00f4ng kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch bi\u1ec7t l\u1eadp, m\u00e0 trong m\u1ed1i quan h\u1ec7. \u1ede Tbilisi, k\u00fd \u1ee9c kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t v\u1eadt s\u1edf h\u1eefu. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t giao d\u1ecbch c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng.<\/p>\n

V\u01b0\u1eddn nho, h\u1ea7m r\u01b0\u1ee3u v\u00e0 chu\u1ed7i d\u1ecbch v\u1ee5 hi\u1ebfu kh\u00e1ch c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi Georgia<\/h2>\n

\u1ede Georgia, r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t d\u00f2ng d\u00f5i. M\u1ed9t di s\u1ea3n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u01b0u gi\u1eef trong \u0111\u1ea5t s\u00e9t, trong c\u1eed ch\u1ec9, trong nghi l\u1ec5, trong nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u c\u1ee7a l\u1eddi n\u00f3i quanh b\u00e0n \u0103n. Tbilisi, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t v\u00f9ng tr\u1ed3ng nho, v\u1eabn kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 t\u00e1ch r\u1eddi kh\u1ecfi s\u1ef1 li\u00ean t\u1ee5c n\u00e0y. Th\u1ee7 \u0111\u00f4 h\u1ea5p th\u1ee5, ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh v\u00e0 l\u01b0u truy\u1ec1n c\u00e1c truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng tr\u1ed3ng nho c\u1ed5 x\u01b0a c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ea5t n\u01b0\u1edbc - kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c h\u00ecnh th\u00e0nh b\u1edfi s\u1ef1 m\u1edbi l\u1ea1 hay xu h\u01b0\u1edbng th\u1ecb tr\u01b0\u1eddng, m\u00e0 b\u1edfi m\u1ed9t k\u00fd \u1ee9c s\u00e2u s\u1eafc nh\u01b0 ch\u00ednh v\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ea5t n\u00e0y.<\/p>\n

B\u1eb1ng ch\u1ee9ng kh\u1ea3o c\u1ed5 h\u1ecdc x\u00e1c nh\u1eadn r\u1eb1ng ngh\u1ec1 tr\u1ed3ng nho \u1edf Georgia c\u00f3 t\u1eeb \u00edt nh\u1ea5t 8.000 n\u0103m tr\u01b0\u1edbc, khi\u1ebfn n\u01a1i \u0111\u00e2y tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng n\u1ec1n v\u0103n h\u00f3a s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang l\u00e2u \u0111\u1eddi nh\u1ea5t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bi\u1ebft \u0111\u1ebfn tr\u00ean th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi. \u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 chuy\u1ec7n t\u1ea7m ph\u00e0o h\u00e0n l\u00e2m\u2014m\u00e0 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 t\u1ef1 hi\u1ec3u bi\u1ebft c\u1ee7a qu\u1ed1c gia. Qvevri, m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc b\u00ecnh \u0111\u1ea5t nung l\u1edbn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u00f4n d\u01b0\u1edbi l\u00f2ng \u0111\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ec3 l\u00ean men v\u00e0 \u1ee7 r\u01b0\u1ee3u, l\u00e0 trung t\u00e2m c\u1ee7a truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng n\u00e0y. H\u00ecnh d\u1ea1ng, ch\u1ee9c n\u0103ng v\u00e0 vai tr\u00f2 t\u00e2m linh c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 v\u1eabn g\u1ea7n nh\u01b0 kh\u00f4ng thay \u0111\u1ed5i k\u1ec3 t\u1eeb th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 \u0111\u1ed3 \u0111\u00e1 m\u1edbi. Qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh n\u00e0y l\u00e0 h\u1eefu c\u01a1, theo ngh\u0129a \u0111en: n\u01b0\u1edbc \u00e9p nho, v\u1ecf, th\u00e2n v\u00e0 h\u1ea1t c\u00f9ng l\u00ean men trong qvevri trong v\u00e0i th\u00e1ng tr\u01b0\u1edbc khi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m trong. Th\u1ee9 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang, m\u00e0 c\u00f2n l\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u hi\u1ec7n v\u1eadt l\u00fd c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ea5t \u0111\u00e3 t\u1ea1o ra n\u00f3.<\/p>\n

\u1ede Tbilisi, m\u1ed1i li\u00ean h\u1ec7 n\u00e0y v\u1edbi tr\u00e1i \u0111\u1ea5t th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n \u1edf c\u1ea3 nh\u1eefng n\u01a1i mang t\u00ednh nghi l\u1ec5 v\u00e0 gia \u0111\u00ecnh. C\u00e1c qu\u00e1n bar v\u00e0 h\u1ea7m r\u01b0\u1ee3u r\u1ea3i r\u00e1c \u1edf c\u00e1c qu\u1eadn c\u0169\u2014m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng c\u00f3 m\u1ee5c \u0111\u00edch, m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 kh\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3i t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh chu\u1ed3ng ng\u1ef1a c\u0169, t\u1ea7ng h\u1ea7m ho\u1eb7c ph\u00f2ng ch\u1ee9a \u0111\u1ed3 kh\u00f4ng s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng. \u1ede Sololaki v\u00e0 Avlabari, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111i xu\u1ed1ng c\u00e1c b\u1eadc \u0111\u00e1 v\u00e0o c\u00e1c h\u1ea7m ch\u1ee9a th\u1eafp n\u1ebfn, n\u01a1i c\u00e1c b\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1eddng v\u1eabn t\u1ecfa ra h\u01a1i m\u00e1t c\u1ee7a nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ebf k\u1ef7. \u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng c\u01a1 s\u1edf v\u00f4 danh. Ch\u00fang mang t\u00ean\u2014c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c gia \u0111\u00ecnh, c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c ng\u00f4i l\u00e0ng, c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c gi\u1ed1ng nho\u2014v\u00e0 ch\u00fang th\u01b0\u1eddng mang d\u1ea5u \u1ea5n c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t ho\u1eb7c hai c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n gi\u00e1m s\u00e1t m\u1ecdi giai \u0111o\u1ea1n t\u1eeb \u00e9p \u0111\u1ebfn r\u00f3t.<\/p>\n

Gvino Underground, g\u1ea7n Qu\u1ea3ng tr\u01b0\u1eddng T\u1ef1 do, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u00f4ng nh\u1eadn r\u1ed9ng r\u00e3i l\u00e0 qu\u00e1n r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. N\u01a1i \u0111\u00e2y v\u1eabn l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t \u0111i\u1ec3m tham chi\u1ebfu: nh\u1eefng m\u00e1i v\u00f2m th\u1ea5p, s\u00e0n nhu\u1ed9m m\u00e0u qvevri, nh\u1eefng k\u1ec7 x\u1ebfp \u0111\u1ea7y nh\u1eefng chai r\u01b0\u1ee3u ch\u01b0a l\u1ecdc t\u1eeb kh\u1eafp Georgia, m\u1ed7i chai \u0111\u1ec1u c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n. Nh\u00e2n vi\u00ean n\u00f3i v\u1ec1 r\u01b0\u1ee3u kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i theo x\u1ebfp h\u1ea1ng hay \u0111\u1ed9 \u0111\u1eadm \u0111\u00e0, m\u00e0 theo kh\u00ed h\u1eadu, \u0111\u1ed9 cao, v\u1ee5 thu ho\u1ea1ch. Nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi trong s\u1ed1 h\u1ecd l\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi l\u00e0m r\u01b0\u1ee3u. C\u00f3 r\u1ea5t \u00edt s\u1ef1 gi\u1ea3 t\u1ea1o \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y, ch\u1ec9 c\u00f3 cam k\u1ebft coi r\u01b0\u1ee3u l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n. M\u1ed9t v\u1ecb kh\u00e1ch c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eddi m\u1ed9t ly Kisi t\u1eeb Kakheti, m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang m\u00e0u h\u1ed5 ph\u00e1ch c\u00f3 v\u1ecb ch\u00e1t \u0111\u1ebfn m\u1ee9c g\u1ea7n nh\u01b0 kh\u1eafc nghi\u1ec7t, ho\u1eb7c m\u1ed9t ly Chinuri tinh t\u1ebf t\u1eeb Kartli\u2014m\u1ed7i ly \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c r\u00f3t ra v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 hi\u1ec3u ng\u1ea7m r\u1eb1ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi u\u1ed1ng gi\u1edd \u0111\u00e2y \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n c\u1ee7a v\u00f2ng cung c\u1ee7a n\u00f3.<\/p>\n

S\u1ef1 \u0111a d\u1ea1ng c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i nho \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tr\u1ed3ng tr\u00ean kh\u1eafp Georgia th\u1eadt \u0111\u00e1ng kinh ng\u1ea1c. C\u00f3 h\u01a1n 500 gi\u1ed1ng nho \u0111\u1eb7c h\u1eefu\u2014trong \u0111\u00f3 c\u00f3 kho\u1ea3ng 40 gi\u1ed1ng v\u1eabn \u0111ang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tr\u1ed3ng t\u00edch c\u1ef1c. Saperavi, \u0111\u1eadm \u0111\u00e0 v\u00e0 m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean x\u01b0\u01a1ng s\u1ed1ng c\u1ee7a nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang \u0111\u1ecf. Rkatsiteli, \u0111a n\u0103ng v\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u c\u1ea3m, l\u00e0m n\u1ec1n t\u1ea3ng cho v\u00f4 s\u1ed1 lo\u1ea1i r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang h\u1ed5 ph\u00e1ch v\u00e0 tr\u1eafng. Nh\u1eefng lo\u1ea1i nho \u00edt \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bi\u1ebft \u0111\u1ebfn h\u01a1n nh\u01b0 Tavkveri, Shavkapito v\u00e0 Tsolikouri mang nhi\u1ec1u \u0111\u1eb7c \u0111i\u1ec3m v\u00f9ng mi\u1ec1n h\u01a1n, th\u01b0\u1eddng g\u1eafn li\u1ec1n v\u1edbi c\u00e1c vi kh\u00ed h\u1eadu c\u1ee5 th\u1ec3 v\u00e0 c\u00e1c t\u1eadp t\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a t\u1ed5 ti\u00ean.<\/p>\n

\u0110i\u1ec1u ph\u00e2n bi\u1ec7t v\u0103n h\u00f3a r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang Gruzia v\u1edbi c\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed1i t\u00e1c ch\u00e2u \u00c2u kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 nho, m\u00e0 c\u00f2n l\u00e0 khu\u00f4n kh\u1ed5 m\u00e0 n\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ti\u00eau th\u1ee5. Supra, m\u1ed9t b\u1eefa ti\u1ec7c theo nghi l\u1ec5, v\u1eabn l\u00e0 b\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh ch\u00ednh cho vai tr\u00f2 x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i c\u1ee7a r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1eabn d\u1eaft b\u1edfi m\u1ed9t tamada\u2014m\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u1ee7 tr\u00ec ti\u1ec7c c\u00f3 k\u1ef9 n\u0103ng h\u00f9ng bi\u1ec7n \u0111\u00e1ng k\u1ec3\u2014supra di\u1ec5n ra trong nhi\u1ec1u gi\u1edd, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac b\u1edfi m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1t c\u00e1c l\u1eddi ch\u00fac m\u1eebng: ch\u00fac m\u1eebng h\u00f2a b\u00ecnh, ch\u00fac m\u1eebng t\u1ed5 ti\u00ean, ch\u00fac m\u1eebng kho\u1ea3nh kh\u1eafc hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i, ch\u00fac m\u1eebng ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u1ebft. R\u01b0\u1ee3u vang kh\u00f4ng bao gi\u1edd \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c u\u1ed1ng v\u1ed9i v\u00e0ng hay c\u00f4 l\u1eadp. M\u1ed7i l\u1eddi ch\u00fac m\u1eebng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t kho\u1ea3nh kh\u1eafc \u0111\u1ec3 n\u00f3i, v\u00e0 m\u1ed7i ng\u1ee5m, l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t c\u1eed ch\u1ec9 c\u1ee7a \u00fd \u0111\u1ecbnh chung.<\/p>\n

Trong gia \u0111\u00ecnh, supra c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u1ee9ng bi\u1ebfn ho\u1eb7c ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p. Trong nh\u00e0 h\u00e0ng, n\u00f3 th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c y\u00eau c\u1ea7u cho c\u00e1c l\u1ec5 k\u1ef7 ni\u1ec7m\u2014\u0111\u00e1m c\u01b0\u1edbi, \u0111o\u00e0n t\u1ee5, k\u1ef7 ni\u1ec7m. Trong c\u1ea3 hai b\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh, r\u01b0\u1ee3u g\u1eafn k\u1ebft nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi tham gia, kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c gi\u1ea3i tr\u00ed, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 l\u1eddi c\u1ea7u kh\u1ea9n. Tamada kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t v\u1eadt ch\u1ee7, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t v\u1eadt ch\u1ee9a \u0111\u1ef1ng k\u00fd \u1ee9c c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng, ng\u1eabu h\u1ee9ng s\u00e1ng t\u00e1c th\u01a1 ca v\u00e0 tri\u1ebft l\u00fd v\u1edbi m\u1ed7i l\u1ea7n n\u00e2ng ly. M\u1ed9t tamada gi\u1ecfi kh\u00f4ng u\u1ed1ng tr\u01b0\u1edbc m\u00e0 l\u00e0 u\u1ed1ng sau. Anh ta \u0111\u1ee3i cho \u0111\u1ebfn khi v\u1ecb kh\u00e1ch cu\u1ed1i c\u00f9ng n\u00e2ng ly, \u0111\u1ea3m b\u1ea3o s\u1ef1 t\u1eadp trung chung v\u1eabn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u1eef nguy\u00ean.<\/p>\n

M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 nh\u00e0 h\u00e0ng \u1edf Tbilisi mu\u1ed1n l\u01b0u gi\u1eef tr\u1ea3i nghi\u1ec7m n\u00e0y cho kh\u00e1ch. T\u1ea1i c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 h\u00e0ng d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c h\u1ecdc nh\u01b0 Salobie Bia hay Shavi Lomi, c\u00e1c m\u00f3n \u0103n kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang m\u00e0 c\u00f2n v\u1edbi b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc v\u00f9ng mi\u1ec1n. \u0110\u1eadu t\u1eeb Racha, th\u1ecbt l\u1ee3n hun kh\u00f3i t\u1eeb Samegrelo, b\u00e1nh ng\u00f4 t\u1eeb Guria\u2014t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 \u0111\u1ec1u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 trong \u0111\u1ea5t s\u00e9t ho\u1eb7c g\u1ed7, trong nh\u1eefng c\u0103n ph\u00f2ng g\u1ee3i nh\u1edb \u0111\u1ebfn n\u1ed9i th\u1ea5t trang tr\u1ea1i ho\u1eb7c salon th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb. R\u01b0\u1ee3u vang \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y v\u1eeba l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 b\u1ed5 sung v\u1eeba l\u00e0 \u0111i\u1ec3m neo. Nh\u00e2n vi\u00ean th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e0o t\u1ea1o \u0111\u1ec3 gi\u1ea3i th\u00edch c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch c\u1ea9n th\u1eadn, ch\u1ec9 ra s\u1ef1 kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t gi\u1eefa r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang h\u1ed5 ph\u00e1ch \u1ee7 qvevri v\u00e0 c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang theo phong c\u00e1ch ch\u00e2u \u00c2u g\u1ea7n \u0111\u00e2y h\u01a1n.<\/p>\n

\u1ede m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 n\u01a1i, s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang di\u1ec5n ra ngay t\u1ea1i ch\u1ed7. C\u00e1c nh\u00e0 m\u00e1y r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang \u0111\u00f4 th\u1ecb \u0111\u00e3 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n \u1edf Tbilisi v\u00e0 xung quanh \u0111\u00f3\u2014c\u00e1c ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng quy m\u00f4 nh\u1ecf, th\u01b0\u1eddng do gia \u0111\u00ecnh \u0111i\u1ec1u h\u00e0nh, tr\u1ed3ng nho b\u00ean ngo\u00e0i th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 v\u00e0 l\u00ean men ch\u00fang trong c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 \u0111\u1ec3 xe, nh\u00e0 kho ho\u1eb7c h\u1ea7m r\u01b0\u1ee3u \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3i t\u1ea1o. Nh\u1eefng kh\u00f4ng gian n\u00e0y th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0m m\u1edd ranh gi\u1edbi gi\u1eefa s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t v\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u di\u1ec5n. M\u1ed9t v\u1ecb kh\u00e1ch c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eddi n\u1ebfm th\u1eed khi \u0111\u1ee9ng c\u1ea1nh m\u1ed9t th\u00f9ng l\u00ean men. M\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi anh em h\u1ecd c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n t\u1eeb ph\u00f2ng sau \u0111\u1ec3 h\u00e1t m\u1ed9t b\u00e0i h\u00e1t d\u00e2n gian. B\u00e1nh m\u00ec c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1ebb ra theo \u00fd th\u00edch, pho m\u00e1t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1eaft l\u00e1t m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng c\u1ea7n nghi l\u1ec5.<\/p>\n

Ngo\u00e0i nh\u1eefng kh\u00f4ng gian \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c qu\u1ea3n l\u00fd n\u00e0y, r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang v\u1eabn ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c \u0111\u00f3ng vai tr\u00f2 l\u00e0 ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n c\u1ee7a l\u00f2ng hi\u1ebfu kh\u00e1ch. M\u1ed9t v\u1ecb kh\u00e1ch \u0111\u1ebfn nh\u00e0\u2014\u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 \u1edf nh\u1eefng khu ph\u1ed1 c\u0169\u2014v\u1eabn c\u00f3 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eddi r\u01b0\u1ee3u m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng c\u1ea7n gi\u1edbi thi\u1ec7u. Chai r\u01b0\u1ee3u c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 nh\u00e3n, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1ea5y t\u1eeb b\u00ecnh nh\u1ef1a, m\u00e0u h\u1ed5 ph\u00e1ch v\u00e0 h\u01a1i \u0111\u1ee5c. \u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t khuy\u1ebft \u0111i\u1ec3m, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 d\u1ea5u hi\u1ec7u c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 th\u00e2n m\u1eadt. R\u01b0\u1ee3u vang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m t\u1ea1i nh\u00e0, th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ng\u01b0\u1eddi th\u00e2n \u00e9p trong m\u00f9a thu ho\u1ea1ch v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c chia s\u1ebb kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t h\u00e0ng t\u1ed3n kho, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 ti\u1ebfp n\u1ed1i. T\u1eeb ch\u1ed1i kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 th\u00f4 l\u1ed7, nh\u01b0ng n\u00f3 \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u m\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi l\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u00ean ngo\u00e0i. Ch\u1ea5p nh\u1eadn l\u00e0 b\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0o v\u00f2ng tr\u00f2n, d\u00f9 ch\u1ec9 trong th\u1eddi gian ng\u1eafn.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ai mu\u1ed1n hi\u1ec3u nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u s\u00e2u s\u1eafc h\u01a1n n\u00e0y, v\u1ecb tr\u00ed g\u1ea7n Kakheti c\u1ee7a Tbilisi\u2014v\u00f9ng s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang h\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ea7u c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ea5t n\u01b0\u1edbc\u2014mang \u0111\u1ebfn b\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh s\u00e2u s\u1eafc h\u01a1n. C\u00e1c chuy\u1ebfn \u0111i trong ng\u00e0y v\u00e0 c\u00e1c chuy\u1ebfn tham quan nhi\u1ec1u ng\u00e0y \u0111\u1ebfn c\u00e1c ng\u00f4i l\u00e0ng nh\u01b0 Sighnaghi, Telavi ho\u1eb7c Kvareli cung c\u1ea5p quy\u1ec1n truy c\u1eadp v\u00e0o c\u00e1c tour tham quan v\u01b0\u1eddn nho v\u00e0 h\u1ed9i th\u1ea3o qvevri. Nh\u01b0ng ch\u00ednh t\u1ea1i Tbilisi, b\u1ee9c tranh kh\u1ea3m c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng n\u00e0y h\u1ed9i t\u1ee5. T\u1ea1i \u0111\u00e2y, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 u\u1ed1ng Saperavi trong m\u1ed9t c\u0103n h\u1ed9 th\u1eddi Li\u00ean X\u00f4 \u0111\u00e3 chuy\u1ec3n th\u00e0nh ph\u00f2ng tr\u01b0ng b\u00e0y, ho\u1eb7c chia s\u1ebb Rkatsiteli v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi l\u1ea1 tr\u00ean m\u00e1i nh\u00e0, n\u01a1i nh\u1eefng c\u00e2y nho b\u00f2 tr\u00ean gi\u00e0n kim lo\u1ea1i r\u1ec9 s\u00e9t.<\/p>\n

R\u01b0\u1ee3u vang \u1edf Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u00fa vui. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i. N\u00f3 li\u00ean k\u1ebft n\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p v\u1edbi v\u0169 tr\u1ee5 h\u1ecdc, h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb v\u1edbi th\u1eddi gian, \u0111\u1ea5t \u0111ai v\u1edbi ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef. Cho d\u00f9 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1ecdc hay th\u00f4, \u0111\u00f3ng chai hay chi\u1ebft t\u1eeb chai soda t\u00e1i ch\u1ebf, n\u00f3 mang theo s\u1ee9c n\u1eb7ng c\u1ee7a nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1ed3ng tr\u1ecdt, \u00e9p, r\u00f3t v\u00e0 ghi nh\u1edb.<\/p>\n

Edge and Expression\u2014Cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng v\u1ec1 \u0111\u00eam, V\u0103n h\u00f3a ph\u1ee5 v\u00e0 Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 sau khi tr\u1eddi t\u1ed1i<\/h2>\n

Khi \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng ban ng\u00e0y m\u1edd d\u1ea7n tr\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ch\u00e2n tr\u1eddi g\u1ed3 gh\u1ec1 c\u1ee7a Tbilisi, c\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng vi\u1ec1n c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 kh\u00f4ng m\u1edd \u0111i nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0 thay \u0111\u1ed5i. C\u00e1c h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac\u2014ban c\u00f4ng, m\u00e1i v\u00f2m, th\u00e1p\u2014nh\u01b0\u1eddng ch\u1ed7 cho nh\u1eefng h\u00ecnh b\u00f3ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c chi\u1ebfu s\u00e1ng t\u1eeb ph\u00eda sau, trong khi ti\u1ebfng \u1ed3n \u00e0o c\u1ee7a ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i ban ng\u00e0y nh\u01b0\u1eddng ch\u1ed7 cho nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u l\u1ecfng l\u1ebbo h\u01a1n, c\u00f3 nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u h\u1ed7n lo\u1ea1n h\u01a1n. V\u00e0o nh\u1eefng gi\u1edd sau khi tr\u1eddi t\u1ed1i, Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng ch\u1eadm l\u1ea1i. N\u00f3 thay \u0111\u1ed5i \u00e2m v\u1ef1c. \u0110\u00eam \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 tr\u1ed1n tho\u00e1t kh\u1ecfi ban ng\u00e0y m\u00e0 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 ti\u1ebfp n\u1ed1i nh\u1eefng suy ngh\u0129 c\u00f2n dang d\u1edf\u2014nh\u1eefng tranh c\u00e3i, s\u1ef1 th\u00e1i qu\u00e1, nh\u1eefng kh\u00e1t khao c\u1ee7a n\u00f3.<\/p>\n

Cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng v\u1ec1 \u0111\u00eam \u1edf Tbilisi mang c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 ng\u1eabu h\u1ee9ng. N\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecbnh \u00edt h\u01a1n b\u1edfi c\u00e1c qu\u1eadn ho\u1eb7c danh hi\u1ec7u m\u00e0 b\u1edfi c\u00e1c m\u1ea1ng l\u01b0\u1edbi: c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c ngh\u1ec7 s\u0129, nh\u1ea1c s\u0129, sinh vi\u00ean v\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi n\u01b0\u1edbc ngo\u00e0i di chuy\u1ec3n gi\u1eefa c\u00e1c kh\u00f4ng gian \u0111\u00e3 bi\u1ebft v\u00e0 thay \u0111\u1ed5i. V\u0103n h\u00f3a sau gi\u1edd l\u00e0m vi\u1ec7c c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0y c\u00f3 t\u00ednh th\u1ea5m, kh\u00f4ng ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c, mang t\u00ednh x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i s\u00e2u s\u1eafc\u2014v\u00e0 ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n nh\u1eefng c\u0103ng th\u1eb3ng v\u00e0 ti\u1ec1m n\u0103ng \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh n\u00ean hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a Gruzia h\u1eadu X\u00f4 Vi\u1ebft, h\u1eadu \u0111\u1ea1i d\u1ecbch v\u00e0 v\u1eabn c\u00f2n chia r\u1ebd.<\/p>\n

Bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc v\u1ec1 \u0111\u00eam c\u1ee7a Tbilisi v\u1eabn l\u00e0 Bassiani, m\u1ed9t c\u00e2u l\u1ea1c b\u1ed9 nh\u1ea1c techno n\u1eb1m trong l\u00f2ng b\u00ea t\u00f4ng c\u1ee7a Dinamo Arena, s\u00e2n v\u1eadn \u0111\u1ed9ng th\u1ec3 thao l\u1edbn nh\u1ea5t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 ng\u1edd t\u1edbi\u2014m\u1ed9t h\u1ed3 b\u01a1i b\u1ecf hoang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3i t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh s\u00e0n nh\u1ea3y r\u1ed9ng l\u1edbn\u2014nh\u01b0ng l\u1ea1i ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng tr\u01b0ng cho logic s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. Bassiani kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m. K\u1ec3 t\u1eeb khi th\u00e0nh l\u1eadp v\u00e0o n\u0103m 2014, n\u01a1i \u0111\u00e2y \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c v\u0103n h\u00f3a, m\u1ed9t \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m kh\u00e1ng c\u1ef1, m\u1ed9t ph\u00f2ng th\u00ed nghi\u1ec7m \u00e2m thanh v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi, l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t n\u01a1i \u1ea9n n\u00e1u.<\/p>\n

C\u00e2u l\u1ea1c b\u1ed9 n\u00e0y \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf n\u00ean n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf nh\u1edd s\u1ef1 nghi\u00eam ng\u1eb7t trong kh\u00e2u tuy\u1ec3n ch\u1ecdn\u2014\u0111\u1eb7t ch\u1ed7 cho nh\u1eefng nh\u00e2n v\u1eadt h\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ea7u trong l\u00e0ng nh\u1ea1c \u0111i\u1ec7n t\u1eed to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u trong khi b\u1ed3i d\u01b0\u1ee1ng t\u00e0i n\u0103ng \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 nghi\u00eam t\u00fac ngang nhau. \u00c2m nh\u1ea1c \u0111\u00f2i h\u1ecfi cao, th\u01b0\u1eddng u \u00e1m, phi th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i v\u00e0 r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng mang t\u00ednh ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb trong c\u00e1ch \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh. Vi\u1ec7c tham gia c\u00f3 t\u00ednh ch\u1ecdn l\u1ecdc, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 kh\u00f4ng nh\u1ea5t thi\u1ebft ph\u1ea3i lo\u1ea1i tr\u1eeb: m\u1ee5c ti\u00eau l\u00e0 b\u1ea3o v\u1ec7 b\u1ea7u kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed, kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u1ec3 \u00e1p \u0111\u1eb7t ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a tinh hoa. \u0110i\u1ec7n tho\u1ea1i kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c khuy\u1ebfn kh\u00edch. Ch\u1ee5p \u1ea3nh b\u1ecb c\u1ea5m. B\u00ean trong, nh\u1eefng g\u00ec xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i s\u1ef1 thanh l\u1ecdc t\u1eadp th\u1ec3, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tuy\u1ec3n ch\u1ecdn th\u00f4ng qua \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng, \u00e2m thanh v\u00e0 chuy\u1ec3n \u0111\u1ed9ng.<\/p>\n

V\u00e0o n\u0103m 2018, Bassiani v\u00e0 Caf\u00e9 Gallery, m\u1ed9t c\u00e2u l\u1ea1c b\u1ed9 kh\u00e1c c\u00f3 s\u00e0n nh\u1ea3y d\u00e0nh ri\u00eang cho ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u1ed3ng t\u00ednh, \u0111\u00e3 b\u1ecb c\u1ea3nh s\u00e1t v\u0169 trang h\u1ea1ng n\u1eb7ng \u0111\u1ed9t k\u00edch trong m\u1ed9t \u0111\u1ed9ng th\u00e1i g\u00e2y ra c\u00e1c cu\u1ed9c bi\u1ec3u t\u00ecnh r\u1ea7m r\u1ed9. C\u00e1c cu\u1ed9c bi\u1ec3u t\u00ecnh, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c tr\u01b0\u1edbc T\u00f2a nh\u00e0 Qu\u1ed1c h\u1ed9i tr\u00ean \u0110\u1ea1i l\u1ed9 Rustaveli, \u0111\u00e3 di\u1ec5n ra d\u01b0\u1edbi h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c m\u1ed9t b\u1eefa ti\u1ec7c ngo\u00e0i tr\u1eddi\u2014h\u00e0ng ngh\u00ecn ng\u01b0\u1eddi nh\u1ea3y m\u00faa b\u1ea5t ch\u1ea5p s\u1ef1 \u0111\u00e0n \u00e1p c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 n\u01b0\u1edbc, kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh quy\u1ec1n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1ee5 t\u1eadp, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c di chuy\u1ec3n, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i. S\u1ef1 ki\u1ec7n n\u00e0y \u0111\u00e3 c\u1ee7ng c\u1ed1 v\u1ecb tr\u00ed c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c c\u00e2u l\u1ea1c b\u1ed9 trong tr\u00ed t\u01b0\u1edfng t\u01b0\u1ee3ng ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb c\u1ee7a Georgia. N\u00f3 c\u0169ng l\u00e0m s\u00e1ng t\u1ecf n\u1ec1n t\u1ea3ng mong manh m\u00e0 nh\u1eefng kh\u00f4ng gian nh\u01b0 v\u1eady d\u1ef1a v\u00e0o.<\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m kh\u00e1c c\u0169ng ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh tinh th\u1ea7n n\u00e0y \u1edf nh\u1eefng quy m\u00f4 kh\u00e1c nhau. Mtkvarze, t\u1ecda l\u1ea1c trong m\u1ed9t t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 th\u1eddi Li\u00ean X\u00f4 b\u00ean b\u1edd s\u00f4ng, ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng tr\u00ean nhi\u1ec1u ph\u00f2ng v\u00e0 nhi\u1ec1u t\u00e2m tr\u1ea1ng, k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p nh\u1ea1c techno v\u1edbi c\u00e1c th\u1ec3 lo\u1ea1i th\u1eed nghi\u1ec7m v\u00e0 s\u1eafp \u0111\u1eb7t tr\u1ef1c quan. Khidi, n\u1eb1m d\u01b0\u1edbi C\u1ea7u Vakhushti Bagrationi, mang phong c\u00e1ch th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 theo ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a t\u00e0n b\u1ea1o v\u00e0 l\u1eadp tr\u00ecnh kh\u1eafc kh\u1ed5 t\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1ef1. Ng\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1ea1i, Fabrika l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trung t\u00e2m d\u1ec5 ti\u1ebfp c\u1eadn h\u01a1n: m\u1ed9t nh\u00e0 m\u00e1y may Li\u00ean X\u00f4 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00e1i s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng hi\u1ec7n c\u00f3 c\u00e1c qu\u00e1n bar, ph\u00f2ng tr\u01b0ng b\u00e0y, kh\u00f4ng gian l\u00e0m vi\u1ec7c chung v\u00e0 nh\u00e0 tr\u1ecd, t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i ph\u00f2ng kh\u00e1ch b\u00e1n c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng d\u00e0nh cho nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi tr\u1ebb s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o, kh\u00e1ch du l\u1ecbch v\u00e0 doanh nh\u00e2n. S\u00e2n trong c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00f3t b\u1eb1ng graffiti, qu\u00e1n c\u00e0 ph\u00ea v\u00e0 gh\u1ebf \u0111\u1ea9u l\u00e0m t\u1eeb c\u00e1c kh\u1ed1i b\u00ea t\u00f4ng v\u00e0 m\u1ea3nh v\u1ee5n c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p\u2014m\u1ed9t phong c\u00e1ch th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 c\u1ed1 \u00fd v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 t\u00e1i s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng v\u00e0 t\u00ednh kh\u00f4ng ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c.<\/p>\n

Tuy nhi\u00ean, v\u0103n h\u00f3a \u0111\u00eam c\u1ee7a Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 gi\u1edbi h\u1ea1n \u1edf c\u00e1c c\u00e2u l\u1ea1c b\u1ed9. C\u00e1c qu\u00e1n c\u00e0 ph\u00ea m\u1edf c\u1eeda mu\u1ed9n, qu\u00e1n bar trong ph\u00f2ng k\u00edn v\u00e0 c\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m d\u01b0\u1edbi l\u00f2ng \u0111\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh n\u00ean c\u00e1c c\u1ea3nh quan v\u0103n h\u00f3a ph\u1ee5 ph\u00e2n m\u1ea3nh h\u01a1n c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. \u1ede Sololaki, c\u00e1c c\u0103n h\u1ed9 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3i t\u1ea1o ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng nh\u01b0 c\u00e1c salon n\u01a1i di\u1ec5n ra c\u00e1c bu\u1ed5i n\u00f3i chuy\u1ec7n, nh\u1ea1c jazz th\u1eed nghi\u1ec7m ho\u1eb7c chi\u1ebfu phim cho m\u1ed9t nh\u00f3m kh\u00e1n gi\u1ea3 nh\u1ecf. Nh\u1eefng cu\u1ed9c t\u1ee5 h\u1ecdp n\u00e0y th\u01b0\u1eddng ch\u1ec9 d\u00e0nh cho nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eddi, ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng th\u00f4ng qua c\u00e1c m\u1ea1ng l\u01b0\u1edbi ri\u00eang t\u01b0, nh\u01b0ng v\u1eabn r\u1ea5t c\u1ea7n thi\u1ebft cho qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh trao \u0111\u1ed5i ch\u1ea5t v\u0103n h\u00f3a c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1.<\/p>\n

B\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh qu\u00e1n bar \u0111a d\u1ea1ng v\u00e0 phi t\u1eadp trung. H\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 qu\u00e1n Dive nh\u01b0ng tinh th\u1ea7n th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eafp x\u1ebfp m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch \u0111\u00e1ng ng\u1ea1c nhi\u00ean, nh\u1eefng kh\u00f4ng gian n\u00e0y ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1edbi bi\u1ec3n b\u00e1o t\u1ed1i thi\u1ec3u v\u00e0 t\u00ednh c\u00e1ch t\u1ed1i \u0111a. Vino Underground, Amra, 41\u00b0 Art of Drink v\u00e0 Caf\u00e9 Linville m\u1ed7i n\u01a1i th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n m\u1ed9t c\u1ea3m nh\u1eadn kh\u00e1c nhau\u2014t\u1eadp trung v\u00e0o r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang, v\u0103n h\u1ecdc, v\u00f9ng mi\u1ec1n, ho\u00e0i c\u1ed5. \u0110\u1ed3 u\u1ed1ng hi\u1ebfm khi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c chu\u1ea9n h\u00f3a. Th\u1ef1c \u0111\u01a1n th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c vi\u1ebft tay. \u00c2m nh\u1ea1c c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1eeb \u0111\u0129a than ho\u1eb7c loa \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u01b0\u1ee3n. \u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng n\u01a1i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng \u0111\u1ec3 c\u00f3 quy m\u00f4; ch\u00fang l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng n\u01a1i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng \u0111\u1ec3 c\u1ed9ng h\u01b0\u1edfng.<\/p>\n

B\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh queer, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 v\u1eabn b\u1ecb h\u1ea1n ch\u1ebf b\u1edfi ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a b\u1ea3o th\u1ee7 c\u1ee7a x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 can thi\u1ec7p th\u1ec9nh tho\u1ea3ng c\u1ee7a c\u1ea3nh s\u00e1t, v\u1eabn c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 nh\u00ecn th\u1ea5y m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch th\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c. Caf\u00e9 Gallery, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u00f3ng c\u1eeda v\u00e0 m\u1edf c\u1eeda tr\u1edf l\u1ea1i nhi\u1ec1u l\u1ea7n, v\u1eabn ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng kh\u00f4ng gian queer c\u00f4ng khai hi\u1ebfm hoi c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. Horoom Nights, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c \u0111\u1ecbnh k\u1ef3 t\u1ea1i Bassiani, \u0111\u00f3ng vai tr\u00f2 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 ki\u1ec7n kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh c\u1ee5 th\u1ec3 LGBTQ+. Vi\u1ec7c ti\u1ebfp c\u1eadn nh\u1eefng b\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh n\u00e0y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111i\u1ec1u h\u01b0\u1edbng m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch tinh t\u1ebf; s\u1ef1 an to\u00e0n v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 k\u00edn \u0111\u00e1o v\u1eabn l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng m\u1ed1i quan t\u00e2m ch\u00ednh. Nh\u01b0ng nh\u1eefng g\u00ec xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 thi\u1ec3u s\u1ed1\u2014m\u00e0 \u200b\u200bl\u00e0 thi\u1ebft y\u1ebfu, h\u00ecnh th\u00e0nh n\u00ean m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n r\u1ed9ng r\u00e3i h\u01a1n v\u1ec1 b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 b\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ed3ng ch\u00ednh ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200bc\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1.<\/p>\n

Ph\u1ea7n l\u1edbn cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng v\u1ec1 \u0111\u00eam \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y v\u1eabn gi\u1eef \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c n\u00e9t th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 DIY r\u00f5 r\u1ec7t. C\u00e1c s\u1ef1 ki\u1ec7n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00f4ng b\u00e1o qua Telegram ho\u1eb7c Instagram. \u0110\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m thay \u0111\u1ed5i. Thanh to\u00e1n c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 ch\u1ec9 b\u1eb1ng ti\u1ec1n m\u1eb7t. C\u00e1c bu\u1ed5i bi\u1ec3u di\u1ec5n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c trong c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 kho, nh\u00e0 m\u00e1y b\u1ecf hoang ho\u1eb7c b\u00ean d\u01b0\u1edbi c\u1ea7u v\u01b0\u1ee3t \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng cao t\u1ed1c. C\u01a1 s\u1edf h\u1ea1 t\u1ea7ng c\u00f2n y\u1ebfu, nh\u01b0ng t\u00ednh ch\u1ee7 \u0111\u00edch th\u00ec cao. \u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng c\u1ea3nh quay \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00fac \u0111\u1ea9y b\u1edfi l\u1ee3i nhu\u1eadn. Ch\u00fang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c neo gi\u1eef trong c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng, trong nhu c\u1ea7u chung v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n v\u00e0 giao l\u01b0u trong b\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh b\u1ea5t \u1ed5n kinh t\u1ebf v\u00e0 b\u1ea5t \u1ed5n ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb.<\/p>\n

B\u00ean ngo\u00e0i c\u00e1c v\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ea5t v\u0103n h\u00f3a ph\u1ee5, \u0111\u1eddi s\u1ed1ng v\u1ec1 \u0111\u00eam ch\u00ednh th\u1ed1ng v\u1eabn t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i: c\u00e1c ph\u00f2ng ch\u1edd shisha v\u1edbi \u0111\u00e8n LED, c\u00e1c qu\u00e1n bar tr\u00ean t\u1ea7ng th\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u00f3 t\u1ea7m nh\u00ecn to\u00e0n c\u1ea3nh v\u00e0 gi\u00e1 cao c\u1ea5p, c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 h\u00e0ng chuy\u1ec3n th\u00e0nh s\u00e0n nh\u1ea3y khi \u0111\u00eam xu\u1ed1ng. Nh\u1eefng kh\u00f4ng gian n\u00e0y th\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 cho m\u1ed9t nh\u00f3m kh\u00e1ch h\u00e0ng kh\u00e1c nhau\u2014ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00e2n \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng gi\u00e0u c\u00f3 h\u01a1n, kh\u00e1ch du l\u1ecbch, ng\u01b0\u1eddi n\u01b0\u1edbc ngo\u00e0i\u2014v\u00e0 sao ch\u00e9p c\u00e1c xu h\u01b0\u1edbng to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u v\u1edbi v\u1ebb h\u00e0o nho\u00e1ng c\u1ee7a Gruzia: khinkali \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 c\u00f9ng v\u1edbi mojito, techno theo sau l\u00e0 c\u00e1c b\u1ea3n ph\u1ed1i l\u1ea1i nh\u1ea1c pop, Tbilisi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t \u201ctr\u1ea3i nghi\u1ec7m\u201d c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 ti\u1ebfp th\u1ecb \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c. Ch\u00fang kh\u00f4ng sai l\u1ec7ch hay kh\u00f4ng ch\u00e2n th\u1ef1c. Ch\u00fang ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 m\u1ed9t nhu c\u1ea7u. Nh\u01b0ng ch\u00fang kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ecbnh ngh\u0129a \u0111\u00eam.<\/p>\n

Cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ed1, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 v\u00e0o m\u00f9a h\u00e8, k\u00e9o d\u00e0i \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1eadn qu\u00e1 n\u1eeda \u0111\u00eam. \u0110\u01b0\u1eddng Rustaveli \u0111\u00f4ng \u0111\u00fac sinh vi\u00ean v\u00e0 c\u00e1c c\u1eb7p \u0111\u00f4i tr\u1ebb. C\u1ea7u Dry Bridge r\u1ed9n r\u00e0ng v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u00e1n h\u00e0ng rong v\u00e0 nh\u1ea1c c\u00f4ng ng\u1eabu h\u1ee9ng v\u00e0o \u0111\u00eam khuya. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi tr\u01b0\u1ee3t v\u00e1n l\u01b0\u1edbt s\u00f3ng d\u1ecdc Qu\u1ea3ng tr\u01b0\u1eddng Orbeliani. C\u00e1c nh\u00f3m t\u1ee5 t\u1eadp b\u00ean b\u1edd s\u00f4ng, nh\u1eefng chai r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c chia nhau trong nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc c\u1ed1c nh\u1ef1a, nh\u1eefng b\u00e0i h\u00e1t c\u0169 ng\u00e2n nga theo giai \u0111i\u1ec7u ch\u1ed3ng ch\u00e9o. Kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 l\u1ec7nh \u0111\u00f3ng c\u1eeda b\u1eaft bu\u1ed9c. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 d\u1ea7n d\u1ea7n l\u1eafng xu\u1ed1ng, r\u1ed3i l\u1ea1i b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u00eam \u1edf Tbilisi v\u1eeba l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 gi\u1ea3i tho\u00e1t v\u1eeba l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 ph\u1ea3n chi\u1ebfu. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 n\u01a1i s\u1ef1 ki\u1ec3m so\u00e1t n\u1edbi l\u1ecfng, n\u01a1i ranh gi\u1edbi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c k\u00e9o d\u00e0i. \u0110\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 th\u1eddi gian t\u00e1ch bi\u1ec7t kh\u1ecfi nh\u1eefng s\u1ef1 th\u1eadt s\u00e2u s\u1eafc h\u01a1n c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1\u2014\u0111\u00f3 l\u00e0 n\u01a1i nh\u1eefng s\u1ef1 th\u1eadt \u0111\u00f3 n\u1ed5i l\u00ean m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch t\u1ef1 do nh\u1ea5t: s\u1ef1 ng\u1eabu h\u1ee9ng, s\u1ef1 g\u1ea7n g\u0169i, s\u1ef1 b\u1ea5t \u1ed5n v\u00e0 ni\u1ec1m vui. V\u00e0 khi m\u1eb7t tr\u1eddi tr\u1edf l\u1ea1i, b\u1eb1ng ch\u1ee9ng ch\u1ec9 c\u00f2n l\u1ea1i trong nh\u1eefng m\u1ea3nh v\u1ee1\u2014g\u1ea1t t\u00e0n thu\u1ed1c \u0111\u1ea7y, d\u1ea5u ch\u00e2n tr\u00ean b\u1ee5i, gi\u1ecdng h\u00e1t kh\u00e0n kh\u00e0n v\u00ec h\u00e1t.<\/p>\n

Tbilisi v\u1ec1 \u0111\u00eam kh\u00f4ng t\u1ef1 qu\u1ea3ng c\u00e1o. N\u00f3 ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n x\u1ea3y ra. L\u1eb7p \u0111i l\u1eb7p l\u1ea1i. Mi\u1ec5n c\u01b0\u1ee1ng. Kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 k\u1ecbch b\u1ea3n. V\u00e0 nh\u1eefng ai b\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3 v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 c\u1edfi m\u1edf, nh\u1eefng ai theo nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u00f2i h\u1ecfi s\u1ef1 ch\u1ec9 d\u1eabn, c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 kh\u00f4ng t\u00ecm th\u1ea5y l\u1ed1i tho\u00e1t, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 g\u1eb7p g\u1ee1.<\/p>\n

Gi\u1eefa s\u1ef1 t\u00e0n ph\u00e1 v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed5i m\u1edbi\u2014S\u1ef1 sang tr\u1ecdng h\u00f3a, x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng v\u00e0 th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 \u0111ang thay \u0111\u1ed5i<\/h2>\n

Tbilisi, trong h\u00ecnh d\u1ea1ng hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a n\u00f3, n\u1eb1m \u0111\u00e2u \u0111\u00f3 gi\u1eefa n\u1ec1n m\u00f3ng v\u00e0 m\u1eb7t ti\u1ec1n. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng l\u1ea1i b\u1eb1ng nh\u1eefng n\u00e9t v\u1ebd \u0111\u1ed9t ng\u1ed9t, c\u0169ng kh\u00f4ng b\u1ecb b\u1ecf m\u1eb7c ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n cho m\u1ee5c n\u00e1t. Thay v\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3, n\u00f3 \u0111ang tr\u1ea3i qua m\u1ed9t qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed5i ch\u1eadm r\u00e3i v\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ed3ng \u0111\u1ec1u\u2014m\u1ed9t ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac c\u0103ng th\u1eb3ng n\u01a1i gi\u00e0n gi\u00e1o v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 im l\u1eb7ng c\u00f9ng t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i. M\u1ed7i qu\u1eadn \u0111\u1ec1u c\u00f3 d\u1ea5u v\u1ebft c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 chuy\u1ec3n \u0111\u1ed5i: m\u1ed9t c\u1eeda s\u1ed5 m\u1edbi l\u1eafp k\u00ednh ph\u00eda tr\u00ean m\u1ed9t khung c\u1eeda \u0111\u1ed5 n\u00e1t, m\u1ed9t kh\u00e1ch s\u1ea1n boutique b\u00ean c\u1ea1nh m\u1ed9t v\u1ecf t\u00e0u b\u1ecb ch\u00e1y, m\u1ed9t b\u1ee9c tranh t\u01b0\u1eddng n\u1edf r\u1ed9 tr\u00ean m\u1ed9t b\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00ean k\u1ebf ho\u1ea1ch ph\u00e1 d\u1ee1.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01a1n thu\u1ea7n l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 sang tr\u1ecdng h\u00f3a. S\u1ef1 sang tr\u1ecdng h\u00f3a ng\u1ee5 \u00fd m\u1ed9t h\u01b0\u1edbng \u0111i r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng: t\u1eeb s\u1ef1 sao nh\u00e3ng \u0111\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ea7u t\u01b0, t\u1eeb t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp lao \u0111\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp trung l\u01b0u. S\u1ef1 chuy\u1ec3n \u0111\u1ed5i c\u1ee7a Tbilisi th\u00ec g\u1eadp gh\u1ec1nh h\u01a1n. N\u00f3 di chuy\u1ec3n theo t\u1eebng \u0111\u1ee3t, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh b\u1edfi tham v\u1ecdng \u0111\u1ea7u c\u01a1 c\u0169ng nh\u01b0 b\u1ea3n n\u0103ng th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 ho\u1eb7c s\u1ef1 th\u1edd \u01a1 c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. K\u1ebft qu\u1ea3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t b\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh v\u1eadt ch\u1ea5t v\u00e0 t\u00e2m l\u00fd n\u01a1i s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i c\u00f3 v\u1ebb v\u1eeba kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 tr\u00e1nh kh\u1ecfi v\u1eeba kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u1ea3i quy\u1ebft.<\/p>\n

\u1ede Sololaki v\u00e0 Tbilisi c\u1ed5, c\u00e1c d\u1ea5u hi\u1ec7u r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng nh\u1ea5t. C\u00e1c t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 t\u1eebng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nhi\u1ec1u gia \u0111\u00ecnh chia s\u1ebb\u2014d\u1ea5u t\u00edch c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 \u1edf c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi Li\u00ean X\u00f4\u2014hi\u1ec7n \u0111ang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c chia nh\u1ecf, c\u1ea3i t\u1ea1o ho\u1eb7c \u0111\u1ed5i th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u. C\u00e1c s\u00e2n th\u01b0\u1ee3ng xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n \u1edf n\u01a1i t\u1eebng l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng m\u00e1i nh\u00e0 l\u1ee3p t\u00f4n. N\u1ed9i th\u1ea5t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m l\u1ea1i b\u1eb1ng g\u1ea1ch l\u1ed9 thi\u00ean v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed3 trang tr\u00ed t\u1ed1i gi\u1ea3n, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ti\u1ebfp th\u1ecb l\u00e0 "ch\u00ednh th\u1ed1ng" nh\u01b0ng l\u1ea1i kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 ng\u1eabu h\u1ee9ng t\u1eebng \u0111\u1ecbnh ngh\u0129a ch\u00fang. Nh\u1eefng khu ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0y, v\u1edbi ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 19 phong ph\u00fa, \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf n\u00ean h\u1ea5p d\u1eabn \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n nh\u1eafm \u0111\u1ebfn th\u1ecb tr\u01b0\u1eddng du l\u1ecbch di s\u1ea3n: c\u00e1c kh\u00e1ch s\u1ea1n v\u1edbi ph\u00f4ng ch\u1eef c\u1ed5 \u0111i\u1ec3n v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 kh\u00f4ng ho\u00e0n h\u1ea3o \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tuy\u1ec3n ch\u1ecdn, c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 h\u00e0ng c\u00f3 th\u1ef1c \u0111\u01a1n b\u1eb1ng b\u1ed1n ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef v\u00e0 c\u00e1c b\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00f3t b\u1eb1ng \u1ea5m samovar.<\/p>\n

Tuy nhi\u00ean, ph\u1ea7n l\u1edbn qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh ph\u1ee5c h\u1ed3i ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 b\u1ec1 ngo\u00e0i. B\u00ean ngo\u00e0i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c v\u1ec7 sinh v\u00e0 ch\u1ec9nh s\u1eeda l\u1ea1i, trong khi c\u00e1c v\u1ea5n \u0111\u1ec1 v\u1ec1 n\u1ec1n m\u00f3ng\u2014\u1ed1ng n\u01b0\u1edbc r\u00f2 r\u1ec9, h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng d\u00e2y \u0111i\u1ec7n b\u1ecb h\u1ecfng, d\u1ea7m g\u1ed7 m\u1ee5c n\u00e1t\u2014v\u1eabn ch\u01b0a \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u1eed l\u00fd. M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c mua v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ec3 m\u1ee5c n\u00e1t, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ee7 s\u1edf h\u1eefu v\u1eafng m\u1eb7t n\u1eafm gi\u1eef nh\u01b0 kho\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ea7u t\u01b0. Nh\u1eefng t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 kh\u00e1c b\u1ecb t\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111o\u1ea1t ng\u01b0\u1eddi thu\u00ea th\u00f4ng qua \u00e1p l\u1ef1c \u00e2m th\u1ea7m, ti\u1ec1n thu\u00ea nh\u00e0 t\u0103ng ho\u1eb7c s\u1ef1 che \u0111\u1eady ph\u00e1p l\u00fd ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n. Nh\u1eefng c\u01b0 d\u00e2n \u0111\u00e3 s\u1ed1ng trong c\u00f9ng m\u1ed9t c\u0103n h\u1ed9 qua nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 th\u1ea5y m\u00ecnh ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng b\u1ecb thi\u1ec7t th\u00f2i, kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i do s\u1eafc l\u1ec7nh m\u00e0 do s\u1ef1 tr\u00f4i d\u1ea1t kinh t\u1ebf.<\/p>\n

Song song v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 d\u1ecbch chuy\u1ec3n l\u1eb7ng l\u1ebd n\u00e0y l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c m\u1edf r\u1ed9ng \u1ed3n \u00e0o h\u01a1n: s\u1ef1 tr\u1ed7i d\u1eady c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c t\u00f2a th\u00e1p sang tr\u1ecdng v\u00e0 c\u00e1c khu ph\u1ee9c h\u1ee3p c\u00f3 c\u1ed5ng, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 \u1edf Saburtalo, Vake v\u00e0 v\u00f9ng ngo\u1ea1i \u00f4 ph\u00eda \u0111\u00f4ng c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. Nh\u1eefng t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 n\u00e0y, th\u01b0\u1eddng cao t\u1eeb 15 \u0111\u1ebfn 30 t\u1ea7ng, xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ed9t ng\u1ed9t - \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng v\u1edbi t\u1ed1c \u0111\u1ed9 nhanh, kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 quy ho\u1ea1ch \u0111\u00f4 th\u1ecb th\u1ed1ng nh\u1ea5t. Nhi\u1ec1u t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 vi ph\u1ea1m lu\u1eadt ph\u00e2n v\u00f9ng, cao h\u01a1n gi\u1edbi h\u1ea1n chi\u1ec1u cao ho\u1eb7c l\u1ea5n chi\u1ebfm kh\u00f4ng gian xanh. M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng tr\u00ean \u0111\u1ea5t c\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c trong \u0111i\u1ec1u ki\u1ec7n kh\u00f4ng trong su\u1ed1t. R\u1ea5t \u00edt t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 cung c\u1ea5p c\u00e1c ti\u1ec7n nghi c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng. M\u1eb7t ti\u1ec1n c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u1ed1p b\u1eb1ng k\u00ednh g\u01b0\u01a1ng ho\u1eb7c \u0111\u00e1 m\u00f4-\u0111un, mang nh\u1eefng c\u00e1i t\u00ean nh\u01b0 "V\u01b0\u1eddn Tbilisi" ho\u1eb7c "Th\u00e1p Tr\u1ee5c" - nh\u1eefng bi\u1ec7t danh \u0111\u1ea7y kh\u00e1t v\u1ecdng t\u00e1ch bi\u1ec7t kh\u1ecfi \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m.<\/p>\n

C\u00e1c c\u00f4ng tr\u01b0\u1eddng x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng li\u00ean t\u1ee5c: xe t\u1ea3i xi m\u0103ng \u0111\u1ed7 tr\u00ean v\u1ec9a h\u00e8, c\u1ed1t th\u00e9p nh\u00f4 ra t\u1eeb s\u00e0n nh\u00e0 ch\u01b0a ho\u00e0n thi\u1ec7n, bi\u1ec3u ng\u1eef h\u1ee9a h\u1eb9n \u201cch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng ch\u00e2u \u00c2u\u201d ho\u1eb7c \u201ccu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng t\u01b0\u01a1ng lai\u201d. C\u1ea7n c\u1ea9u xoay quanh c\u00e1c khu ph\u1ed1 n\u01a1i c\u01a1 s\u1edf h\u1ea1 t\u1ea7ng\u2014h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng tho\u00e1t n\u01b0\u1edbc, \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng s\u00e1, tr\u01b0\u1eddng h\u1ecdc\u2014t\u1ee5t h\u1eadu xa so v\u1edbi m\u1eadt \u0111\u1ed9 d\u00e2n s\u1ed1 m\u00e0 nh\u1eefng t\u00f2a th\u00e1p n\u00e0y cho l\u00e0. S\u1ef1 b\u00f9ng n\u1ed5 x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00fac \u0111\u1ea9y b\u1edfi ki\u1ec1u h\u1ed1i, mua \u0111\u1ea7u c\u01a1 v\u00e0 d\u00f2ng v\u1ed1n \u0111\u1ea7u t\u01b0 n\u01b0\u1edbc ngo\u00e0i, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 t\u1eeb Nga, Iran v\u00e0 ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng nhi\u1ec1u nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi du m\u1ee5c k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt s\u1ed1 t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm n\u01a1i l\u01b0u tr\u00fa ng\u1eafn h\u1ea1n.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00e2n Tbilisi, nh\u1eefng thay \u0111\u1ed5i n\u00e0y g\u00e2y m\u1ea5t ph\u01b0\u01a1ng h\u01b0\u1edbng. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 m\u00e0 h\u1ecd sinh s\u1ed1ng tr\u1edf n\u00ean kh\u00f3 \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u01b0\u1edbng h\u01a1n, \u00edt quen thu\u1ed9c h\u01a1n. Nh\u1eefng \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m g\u1eafn li\u1ec1n v\u1edbi k\u00fd \u1ee9c\u2014r\u1ea1p chi\u1ebfu phim, ti\u1ec7m b\u00e1nh, s\u00e2n trong\u2014bi\u1ebfn m\u1ea5t m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng b\u00e1o tr\u01b0\u1edbc, thay v\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3 l\u00e0 c\u00e1c qu\u00e1n c\u00e0 ph\u00ea chu\u1ed7i ho\u1eb7c m\u1eb7t ti\u1ec1n m\u00e0u be. Kh\u00f4ng gian c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng b\u1ecb thu h\u1eb9p. C\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ng\u1eafm c\u1ea3nh bi\u1ebfn m\u1ea5t. Nh\u1eefng ng\u1ecdn \u0111\u1ed3i kh\u00f4ng c\u00f2n nh\u00ecn th\u1ea5y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1eeb m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 c\u1eeda s\u1ed5. Mtkvari, t\u1eebng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bao quanh b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng b\u1edd \u0111\u00e1 v\u00e0 nh\u00e0 g\u1ed7, ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bao quanh b\u1edfi c\u00e1c khu ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n m\u1edbi, m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 l\u1ed1i ra s\u00f4ng ho\u1eb7c l\u1ed1i \u0111i b\u1ed9.<\/p>\n

Ch\u00ednh s\u00e1ch c\u1ee7a ch\u00ednh ph\u1ee7 \u0111\u01b0a ra \u00edt h\u01b0\u1edbng d\u1eabn m\u1ea1ch l\u1ea1c. C\u00e1c chi\u1ebfn l\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n \u0111\u00f4 th\u1ecb hi\u1ebfm khi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u00f4ng b\u1ed1 \u0111\u1ea7y \u0111\u1ee7; c\u00e1c cu\u1ed9c tham v\u1ea5n c\u00f4ng khai b\u1ecb h\u1ea1n ch\u1ebf ho\u1eb7c mang t\u00ednh h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c. C\u00e1c nh\u00e0 ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u00e0 ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac s\u01b0 \u0111\u00e3 l\u00ean ti\u1ebfng lo ng\u1ea1i, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 xu\u1ed1ng c\u1ea5p c\u1ee7a m\u00f4i tr\u01b0\u1eddng v\u00e0 x\u00f3a b\u1ecf v\u0103n h\u00f3a. D\u1ef1 \u00e1n Panorama Tbilisi g\u00e2y tranh c\u00e3i\u2014m\u1ed9t khu ph\u1ee9c h\u1ee3p sang tr\u1ecdng \u0111\u1ea7y tham v\u1ecdng g\u1ea7n d\u00e3y n\u00fai l\u1ecbch s\u1eed ph\u00eda tr\u00ean Sololaki\u2014\u0111\u00e3 g\u00e2y ra c\u00e1c cu\u1ed9c bi\u1ec3u t\u00ecnh v\u00ec t\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t th\u1ecb gi\u00e1c v\u00e0 sinh th\u00e1i c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u1ec9 tr\u00edch cho r\u1eb1ng nh\u1eefng ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n nh\u01b0 v\u1eady kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0m m\u00e9o m\u00f3 b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc l\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 m\u00e0 c\u00f2n vi ph\u1ea1m s\u1ef1 t\u00edch h\u1ee3p h\u1eefu c\u01a1 c\u1ee7a ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac Tbilisi v\u1edbi \u0111\u1ecba h\u00ecnh c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1.<\/p>\n

Kh\u00f4ng gian xanh c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t d\u1ec5 b\u1ecb t\u1ed5n th\u01b0\u01a1ng. C\u00e1c c\u00f4ng vi\u00ean b\u1ecb l\u1ea5n chi\u1ebfm b\u1edfi c\u00e1c b\u00e3i \u0111\u1eadu xe ho\u1eb7c c\u00e1c ch\u01b0\u01a1ng tr\u00ecnh "l\u00e0m \u0111\u1eb9p" x\u00f3a b\u1ecf \u0111a d\u1ea1ng sinh h\u1ecdc \u0111\u1ec3 \u1ee7ng h\u1ed9 c\u1ea3nh quan \u0111\u1ed3ng nh\u1ea5t. C\u00e2y c\u1ed1i b\u1ecb ch\u1eb7t b\u1ecf m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 gi\u1ea5y ph\u00e9p. \u0110\u01b0\u1eddng m\u00f2n tr\u00ean s\u01b0\u1eddn \u0111\u1ed3i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e1t \u0111\u00e1. Trong m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 tr\u01b0\u1eddng h\u1ee3p, c\u00e2y di s\u1ea3n b\u1ecb \u0111\u1ed1n h\u1ea1 qua \u0111\u00eam, s\u1ef1 v\u1eafng m\u1eb7t c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u1ea3i th\u00edch sau \u0111\u00f3. V\u01b0\u1eddn b\u00e1ch th\u1ea3o \u0111\u00e3 m\u1ea5t m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n ngo\u1ea1i vi c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 do c\u00f4ng tr\u00ecnh x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng li\u1ec1n k\u1ec1. C\u00f4ng vi\u00ean Vake, t\u1eeb l\u00e2u l\u00e0 n\u01a1i tr\u00fa \u1ea9n kh\u1ecfi m\u1eadt \u0111\u1ed9 d\u00e2n s\u1ed1 c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u1ed1i m\u1eb7t v\u1edbi c\u00e1c m\u1ed1i \u0111e d\u1ecda t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng con \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1edbi v\u00e0 c\u00e1c d\u1ef1 \u00e1n ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n d\u1ecdc theo ranh gi\u1edbi c\u1ee7a n\u00f3.<\/p>\n

Tuy nhi\u00ean, gi\u1eefa b\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh n\u00e0y, nh\u1eefng ti\u1ebfng n\u00f3i kh\u00e1c v\u1eabn t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i. C\u00e1c ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac s\u01b0, ngh\u1ec7 s\u0129 v\u00e0 nh\u00e0 quy ho\u1ea1ch \u0111\u00f4 th\u1ecb \u0111\u1ed9c l\u1eadp \u0111ang n\u1ed7 l\u1ef1c ghi l\u1ea1i v\u00e0 ch\u1ed1ng l\u1ea1i nh\u1eefng h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c x\u00f3a b\u1ecf t\u1ec7 h\u1ea1i nh\u1ea5t. Kho l\u01b0u tr\u1eef k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt s\u1ed1 v\u1ec1 c\u00e1c t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 \u0111ang b\u1ecb \u0111e d\u1ecda l\u01b0u h\u00e0nh tr\u00ean ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n truy\u1ec1n th\u00f4ng x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i. C\u00e1c ngh\u1ec7 s\u0129 graffiti v\u1ebd tranh t\u01b0\u1eddng nh\u1eafc nh\u1edf l\u00ean c\u00e1c b\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n: \u0110\u00e2y t\u1eebng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ng\u00f4i nh\u00e0. C\u00e1c can thi\u1ec7p ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt t\u1ea1m th\u1eddi t\u00e1i s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng c\u00e1c t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 b\u1ecb b\u1ecf hoang tr\u01b0\u1edbc khi ph\u00e1 d\u1ee1. C\u00e1c nh\u00f3m nh\u1ecf t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c c\u00e1c tour \u0111i b\u1ed9, \u0111\u1ecdc s\u00e1ch c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng ho\u1eb7c c\u00e1c d\u1ef1 \u00e1n t\u01b0\u1edfng nh\u1edb nh\u1eb1m t\u1ea1o ra nh\u1eefng c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n thay th\u1ebf v\u1ec1 kh\u00f4ng gian.<\/p>\n

Kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i m\u1ecdi thay \u0111\u1ed5i \u0111\u1ec1u l\u00e0 khai th\u00e1c. M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 c\u1ea3i t\u1ea1o \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ef1c hi\u1ec7n m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch c\u1ea9n th\u1eadn, b\u1ea3o t\u1ed3n s\u00e2n trong, kh\u00f4i ph\u1ee5c ban c\u00f4ng g\u1ed7 ch\u1ea1m kh\u1eafc, tham kh\u1ea3o \u00fd ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200bc\u1ee7a c\u00e1c chuy\u00ean gia v\u1ec1 di s\u1ea3n. C\u00e1c trung t\u00e2m v\u0103n h\u00f3a m\u1edbi \u0111\u00e3 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n t\u1eeb c\u00e1c t\u00e0n t\u00edch c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p. Khu ph\u1ee9c h\u1ee3p Fabrika, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 c\u00f3 xu h\u01b0\u1edbng th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i, \u0111\u00e3 th\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng trong vi\u1ec7c duy tr\u00ec c\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng x\u1ed1p. C\u00e1c nh\u00e0 m\u00e1y c\u0169 \u1edf Didube v\u00e0 Nadzaladevi hi\u1ec7n l\u00e0 n\u01a1i \u0111\u1eb7t c\u00e1c studio ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt, kh\u00f4ng gian t\u1eadp luy\u1ec7n v\u00e0 c\u00e1c nh\u00f3m v\u0103n h\u1ecdc. M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 nh\u00e0 ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n \u0111\u00e3 h\u1ee3p t\u00e1c v\u1edbi c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 s\u1eed h\u1ecdc \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u1eb7t t\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ed1 v\u00e0 d\u1ef1 \u00e1n theo t\u00ean c\u00e1c nh\u00e2n v\u1eadt c\u1ee7a n\u1ec1n v\u0103n h\u00f3a Gruzia, thay v\u00ec c\u00e1c ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf chung chung.<\/p>\n

Tuy nhi\u00ean, xu h\u01b0\u1edbng chung l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 ph\u00e2n m\u1ea3nh. Kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 t\u1ea7m nh\u00ecn duy nh\u1ea5t n\u00e0o cho t\u01b0\u01a1ng lai c\u1ee7a Tbilisi. Thay v\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3, th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0y \u0111\u1ee9ng \u1edf ng\u00e3 ba \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng, n\u01a1i c\u00e1c l\u1ef1c l\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ea1nh tranh - di s\u1ea3n v\u00e0 v\u1ed1n, k\u00fd \u1ee9c v\u00e0 ti\u1ec7n \u00edch, quy \u0111\u1ecbnh v\u00e0 \u1ee9ng bi\u1ebfn - va ch\u1ea1m m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 t\u1ed5ng h\u1ee3p. K\u1ebft qu\u1ea3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t d\u1ea1ng palimpsest \u0111\u00f4 th\u1ecb: c\u00e1c l\u1edbp \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c vi\u1ebft v\u00e0 ghi \u0111\u00e8, kh\u00f4ng bao gi\u1edd b\u1ecb x\u00f3a ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n.<\/p>\n

\u0110i b\u1ed9 qua Tbilisi ng\u00e0y nay l\u00e0 ch\u1ee9ng ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200bm\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 \u0111ang trong qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t \u00fd th\u1ee9c h\u1ec7. N\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng b\u1ecb \u0111\u00f3ng b\u0103ng trong l\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u0169ng kh\u00f4ng cam k\u1ebft v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t t\u01b0\u01a1ng lai m\u1ea1ch l\u1ea1c. Thay v\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3, n\u00f3 cung c\u1ea5p nh\u1eefng c\u00e1i nh\u00ecn tho\u00e1ng qua: v\u1ec1 nh\u1eefng g\u00ec c\u00f2n l\u1ea1i, v\u1ec1 nh\u1eefng g\u00ec c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u00e3 x\u1ea3y ra, v\u00e0 v\u1ec1 nh\u1eefng g\u00ec \u0111ang \u0111\u1ebfn qu\u00e1 nhanh \u0111\u1ec3 n\u1eafm b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7y \u0111\u1ee7. V\u1ebb \u0111\u1eb9p c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 kh\u00f4ng n\u1eb1m \u1edf s\u1ef1 ho\u00e0n h\u1ea3o c\u1ee7a n\u00f3, m\u00e0 n\u1eb1m \u1edf s\u1ef1 t\u1eeb ch\u1ed1i \u1ed5n \u0111\u1ecbnh. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t n\u01a1i v\u1eabn c\u00f2n, m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch b\u01b0\u1edbng b\u1ec9nh v\u00e0 kh\u00f3 ch\u1ecbu, ch\u01b0a ho\u00e0n thi\u1ec7n.<\/p>\n

\u1ede ng\u01b0\u1ee1ng c\u1eeda\u2014Ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef, b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc v\u00e0 r\u00eca ch\u00e2u \u00c2u<\/h2>\n

Tbilisi, gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 \u0111\u1ea5t n\u01b0\u1edbc m\u00e0 n\u00f3 neo \u0111\u1eadu, kh\u00f4ng li\u00ean k\u1ebft ch\u1eb7t ch\u1ebd v\u1edbi c\u00e1c nh\u1ecb ph\u00e2n l\u1ee5c \u0111\u1ecba. N\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n l\u00e0 ch\u00e2u \u00c2u hay ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n l\u00e0 ch\u00e2u \u00c1, kh\u00f4ng ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n Ch\u00ednh th\u1ed1ng gi\u00e1o hay th\u1ebf t\u1ee5c nghi\u00eam ng\u1eb7t, kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 thu\u1ed9c \u0111\u1ecba hay th\u1ef1c d\u00e2n theo ngh\u0129a quen thu\u1ed9c. Thay v\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3, n\u00f3 chi\u1ebfm m\u1ed9t bi\u00ean \u0111\u1ed9 kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 ngo\u1ea1i vi, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 h\u00ecnh th\u00e0nh\u2014m\u1ed9t ranh gi\u1edbi \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc c\u0169ng nh\u01b0 l\u00e0m m\u1ea5t \u1ed5n \u0111\u1ecbnh b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc. \u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 n\u01a1i t\u1ed5ng h\u1ee3p, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 n\u01a1i \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi.<\/p>\n

Ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef c\u00f3 l\u1ebd l\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u hi\u1ec7n tr\u1ef1c ti\u1ebfp nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc nhi\u1ec1u l\u1edbp n\u00e0y. Ti\u1ebfng Gruzia, v\u1edbi b\u1ea3ng ch\u1eef c\u00e1i \u0111\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e1o v\u00e0 g\u1ed1c Kartvelian, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c n\u00f3i v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 g\u1eafn b\u00f3 m\u00e3nh li\u1ec7t. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 nh\u1ea5t qu\u00e1n n\u1ed9i t\u1ea1i s\u00e2u s\u1eafc nh\u01b0ng c\u00f3 t\u00ednh \u0111\u01a1n nh\u1ea5t b\u00ean ngo\u00e0i\u2014kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i \u1ea4n-\u00c2u, kh\u00f4ng li\u00ean quan \u0111\u1ebfn ti\u1ebfng Nga hay ti\u1ebfng Th\u1ed5 Nh\u0129 K\u1ef3 hay ti\u1ebfng Ba T\u01b0, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n v\u00e0 b\u1ea3o t\u1ed3n g\u1ea7n nh\u01b0 bi\u1ec7t l\u1eadp trong nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ebf k\u1ef7. Ch\u1eef vi\u1ebft c\u1ee7a n\u00f3, Mkhedruli, xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n tr\u00ean c\u00e1c m\u1eb7t ti\u1ec1n c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng, th\u1ef1c \u0111\u01a1n, th\u00f4ng b\u00e1o c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng\u2014m\u1ed9t th\u00e1c n\u01b0\u1edbc cong v\u1eabn m\u1edd \u0111\u1ee5c \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi h\u1ea7u h\u1ebft du kh\u00e1ch, nh\u01b0ng l\u1ea1i hi\u1ec7n di\u1ec7n \u1edf kh\u1eafp m\u1ecdi n\u01a1i. C\u00e1c ch\u1eef c\u00e1i \u0111\u1eb9p, nh\u01b0ng b\u1ec1n b\u1ec9. S\u1ef1 hi\u1ec3u bi\u1ebft kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ebfn nhanh ch\u00f3ng, m\u00e0 th\u00f4ng qua s\u1ef1 g\u1ea7n g\u0169i k\u00e9o d\u00e0i.<\/p>\n

Ti\u1ebfng Gruzia kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n giao ti\u1ebfp m\u00e0 c\u00f2n l\u00e0 l\u1eadp tr\u01b0\u1eddng v\u0103n h\u00f3a. N\u00f3i ti\u1ebfng Gruzia tr\u00f4i ch\u1ea3y, th\u1eadm ch\u00ed l\u00e0 ng\u1eadp ng\u1eebng, t\u1ee9c l\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eddi v\u00e0o m\u1ed9t c\u1ea5p \u0111\u1ed9 th\u00e2n m\u1eadt x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i kh\u00e1c. B\u1ecf qua n\u00f3, ho\u1eb7c cho r\u1eb1ng n\u00f3 gi\u1ed1ng v\u1edbi ti\u1ebfng Nga ho\u1eb7c ti\u1ebfng Armenia, t\u1ee9c l\u00e0 hi\u1ec3u sai v\u1ec1 nh\u1eefng c\u0103ng th\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecba ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb v\u00e0 l\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. Ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef kh\u00f4ng trung l\u1eadp \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y. N\u00f3 \u0111\u00e3 b\u1ecb \u00e1p \u0111\u1eb7t, \u0111\u00e0n \u00e1p, h\u1ed3i sinh, ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb h\u00f3a.<\/p>\n

Ti\u1ebfng Nga v\u1eabn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng r\u1ed9ng r\u00e3i, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 trong c\u00e1c th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 l\u1edbn tu\u1ed5i, v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 hi\u1ec7n di\u1ec7n c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 r\u1ea5t ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p. \u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 ng\u01b0\u1eddi, \u0111\u00e2y l\u00e0 ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef chung c\u1ea7n thi\u1ebft, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng tr\u00ean th\u1ecb tr\u01b0\u1eddng, b\u1ed9 m\u00e1y h\u00e0nh ch\u00ednh v\u00e0 giao ti\u1ebfp xuy\u00ean bi\u00ean gi\u1edbi. \u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi kh\u00e1c, \u0111\u00e2y l\u00e0 l\u1eddi nh\u1eafc nh\u1edf \u0111au \u0111\u1edbn v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 chi\u1ebfm \u0111\u00f3ng - \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ebf qu\u1ed1c, sau \u0111\u00f3 l\u00e0 Li\u00ean X\u00f4. L\u00e0n s\u00f3ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi Nga di c\u01b0 g\u1ea7n \u0111\u00e2y ch\u1ea1y tr\u1ed1n ngh\u0129a v\u1ee5 qu\u00e2n s\u1ef1 ho\u1eb7c ki\u1ec3m duy\u1ec7t sau cu\u1ed9c x\u00e2m l\u01b0\u1ee3c Ukraine \u0111\u00e3 kh\u01a1i d\u1eady nh\u1eefng s\u1ef1 nh\u1ea1y c\u1ea3m n\u00e0y. Nh\u1eefng t\u1ea5m \u00e1p ph\u00edch c\u00f3 d\u00f2ng ch\u1eef "Nh\u1eefng k\u1ebb \u0111\u00e0o ng\u0169 Nga h\u00e3y v\u1ec1 nh\u00e0" \u0111\u00e3 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n \u1edf c\u00e1c c\u1ea7u thang v\u00e0 qu\u00e1n c\u00e0 ph\u00ea. Nh\u1eefng b\u1ee9c tranh t\u01b0\u1eddng b\u1eb1ng c\u1ea3 hai ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh v\u00e0 ch\u1ec9 tr\u00edch s\u1ef1 hi\u1ec7n di\u1ec7n. Tuy nhi\u00ean, \u1edf nhi\u1ec1u khu ph\u1ed1, ti\u1ebfng Gruzia v\u00e0 ti\u1ebfng Nga c\u00f9ng t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i trong cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y v\u1edbi ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a th\u1ef1c d\u1ee5ng kh\u00f3 ch\u1ecbu.<\/p>\n

Ng\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1ea1i, ti\u1ebfng Anh l\u00e0 ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef c\u1ee7a kh\u00e1t v\u1ecdng v\u00e0 tu\u1ed5i tr\u1ebb. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c c\u00f4ng ty kh\u1edfi nghi\u1ec7p c\u00f4ng ngh\u1ec7, c\u00e1c t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c phi ch\u00ednh ph\u1ee7, qu\u00e1n c\u00e0 ph\u00ea s\u00e0nh \u0111i\u1ec7u v\u00e0 c\u00e1c ch\u01b0\u01a1ng tr\u00ecnh \u0111\u1ea1i h\u1ecdc. S\u1ef1 l\u01b0u lo\u00e1t c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u \u0111\u1ecba v\u1ecb kinh t\u1ebf x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi Tbilisi tr\u1ebb tu\u1ed5i, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u1edf c\u00e1c qu\u1eadn trung t\u00e2m c\u1ee7a th\u1ee7 \u0111\u00f4, ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng n\u00f3i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c song ng\u1eef ti\u1ebfng Gruzia v\u00e0 ti\u1ebfng Anh, t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t v\u1edbi c\u1ea3 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi l\u1edbn tu\u1ed5i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u00e1o d\u1ee5c \u1edf Li\u00ean X\u00f4 v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi h\u1ecd h\u00e0ng \u1edf n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n. \u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi h\u1ecd, ti\u1ebfng Anh kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t c\u00f4ng c\u1ee5 m\u00e0 c\u00f2n l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ch\u00e2n tr\u1eddi.<\/p>\n

\u0110a ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 \u0111i\u1ec1u m\u1edbi m\u1ebb \u1edf Tbilisi. V\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t l\u1ecbch s\u1eed, th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0y ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t khu v\u1ef1c \u0111a ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef, v\u1edbi c\u00e1c c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi Armenia, Azeri, Hy L\u1ea1p, Ba T\u01b0, Kurd v\u00e0 Do Th\u00e1i c\u00f9ng chung s\u1ed1ng, m\u1ed7i c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng g\u00f3p ph\u1ea7n t\u1ea1o n\u00ean b\u1ee9c tranh kh\u1ea3m c\u00e1c ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c n\u00f3i trong s\u00e2n, c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng v\u00e0 nghi l\u1ec5. S\u1ef1 \u0111a d\u1ea1ng n\u00e0y \u0111\u00e3 gi\u1ea3m \u0111i, nh\u01b0ng d\u1ea5u \u1ea5n c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 v\u1eabn c\u00f2n. T\u00ean \u0111\u1ecba danh, thu\u1eadt ng\u1eef \u1ea9m th\u1ef1c, h\u1ecd gia \u0111\u00ecnh\u2014t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 \u0111\u1ec1u mang d\u1ea5u v\u1ebft c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c c\u1ea5u h\u00ecnh \u0111a nguy\u00ean h\u01a1n, c\u0169 h\u01a1n.<\/p>\n

B\u1ea3n s\u1eafc \u1edf Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 duy nh\u1ea5t. N\u00f3 th\u1eadm ch\u00ed kh\u00f4ng \u1ed5n \u0111\u1ecbnh. N\u00f3 dao \u0111\u1ed9ng gi\u1eefa l\u00f2ng t\u1ef1 h\u00e0o \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 m\u01a1 h\u1ed3 c\u1ee7a khu v\u1ef1c, gi\u1eefa k\u00fd \u1ee9c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1eeba h\u01b0\u1edfng v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 t\u00e1i t\u1ea1o chi\u1ebfn l\u01b0\u1ee3c. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng coi m\u00ecnh l\u00e0 th\u1ee7 \u0111\u00f4 ch\u00e2u \u00c2u - ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi c\u00e1c gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb v\u00e0 v\u0103n h\u00f3a ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y, ti\u1ebfn b\u1ed9 trong l\u1eddi n\u00f3i n\u1ebfu kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i lu\u00f4n lu\u00f4n trong lu\u1eadt ph\u00e1p. C\u1edd Li\u00ean minh ch\u00e2u \u00c2u tung bay b\u00ean c\u1ea1nh c\u1edd Gruzia tr\u00ean c\u00e1c t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 ch\u00ednh ph\u1ee7. Sinh vi\u00ean Erasmus chen ch\u00fac tr\u00ean c\u00e1c b\u1eadc thang c\u1ee7a tr\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u1ea1i h\u1ecdc. C\u00e1c d\u1ef1 \u00e1n \u0111\u1ed5i m\u1edbi \u0111\u00f4 th\u1ecb do EU t\u00e0i tr\u1ee3 r\u1ea3i r\u00e1c kh\u1eafp th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. Tuy nhi\u00ean, t\u01b0 c\u00e1ch th\u00e0nh vi\u00ean EU th\u1ef1c s\u1ef1 v\u1eabn c\u00f2n kh\u00f3 n\u1eafm b\u1eaft, b\u1ecb tr\u00ec ho\u00e3n b\u1edfi b\u1ed9 m\u00e1y quan li\u00eau v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p v\u1ec1 \u0111\u1ecba ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb. M\u00e2u thu\u1eabn n\u00e0y di\u1ec5n ra h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y: c\u00e1c h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c c\u1ee7a ch\u00e2u \u00c2u \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00f4ng qua, nh\u01b0ng an ninh v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 h\u1ed9i nh\u1eadp c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 v\u1eabn c\u00f2n xa v\u1eddi.<\/p>\n

Tuy nhi\u00ean, ng\u01b0\u1eddi Tbilisi l\u1ea1i c\u00f3 th\u00f3i quen b\u1ea5t h\u00f2a nh\u01b0 v\u1eady. H\u1ecd bi\u1ebft c\u00e1ch s\u1ed1ng trong nh\u1eefng m\u00e2u thu\u1eabn m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng c\u1ea7n gi\u1ea3i quy\u1ebft. Ni\u1ec1m t\u1ef1 h\u00e0o v\u1ec1 truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng Ch\u00ednh th\u1ed1ng gi\u00e1o Gruzia kh\u00f4ng ng\u0103n c\u1ea3n vi\u1ec7c b\u1ea3o v\u1ec7 quy\u1ec1n t\u1ef1 do b\u00e1o ch\u00ed m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch nhi\u1ec7t t\u00ecnh. S\u1ef1 t\u00f4n k\u00ednh s\u00e2u s\u1eafc \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef v\u00e0 l\u1ecbch s\u1eed song h\u00e0nh v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 ch\u1ec9 tr\u00edch gay g\u1eaft v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 l\u1ea1m quy\u1ec1n c\u1ee7a ch\u00ednh ph\u1ee7. Trong c\u1ea3 ph\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ed1i v\u00e0 \u0103n m\u1eebng, th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0y \u0111\u1ec1u l\u00ean ti\u1ebfng v\u1edbi gi\u1ecdng \u0111i\u1ec7u s\u1eafc s\u1ea3o, \u0111a d\u1ea1ng v\u00e0 th\u01b0\u1eddng mang t\u00ednh m\u1ec9a mai s\u00e2u s\u1eafc.<\/p>\n

S\u1ef1 tr\u1edb tr\u00eau n\u00e0y l\u00e0 c\u1ed1t l\u00f5i. Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 bu\u00f4n b\u00e1n s\u1ef1 ch\u00e2n th\u00e0nh. S\u1ef1 h\u00e0i h\u01b0\u1edbc c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0y kh\u00f4 khan, s\u1ef1 ch\u00e2m bi\u1ebfm s\u1eafc s\u1ea3o, s\u1ef1 t\u1ef1 nh\u1eadn th\u1ee9c c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0y mang t\u00ednh ph\u1ea3n x\u1ea1. C\u00e1c b\u1ee9c bi\u1ebfm h\u1ecda ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb r\u1ea5t ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn; c\u00e1c cu\u1ed9c bi\u1ec3u t\u00ecnh s\u00e2n kh\u1ea5u di\u1ec5n ra th\u01b0\u1eddng xuy\u00ean. B\u00e0i ph\u00e1t bi\u1ec3u tr\u01b0\u1edbc c\u00f4ng ch\u00fang, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 trong gi\u1edbi tr\u1ebb, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1ed3ng gh\u00e9p v\u1edbi vi\u1ec7c chuy\u1ec3n \u0111\u1ed5i m\u00e3, nh\u1eefng c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n c\u01b0\u1eddi n\u1ed9i b\u1ed9 v\u00e0 \u00e1m ch\u1ec9 l\u1ecbch s\u1eed. Truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng v\u0103n h\u1ecdc c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0y\u2014t\u1eeb Ilia Chavchavadze \u0111\u1ebfn Zurab Karumidze\u2014\u0111\u1ea7y r\u1eaby s\u1ef1 m\u01a1 h\u1ed3. Ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef, gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc, kh\u00f4ng bao gi\u1edd \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch h\u1eddi h\u1ee3t.<\/p>\n

B\u1ea3n s\u1eafc d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c \u1edf Georgia kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng tr\u00ean n\u1ec1n v\u0103n h\u00f3a \u0111\u01a1n \u0111i\u1ec7u m\u00e0 tr\u00ean s\u1ef1 sinh t\u1ed3n. \u0110\u1ea5t n\u01b0\u1edbc n\u00e0y \u0111\u00e3 t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i qua nhi\u1ec1u \u0111\u1ebf ch\u1ebf, h\u1ea5p th\u1ee5, kh\u00e1ng c\u1ef1 v\u00e0 t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i l\u00e2u d\u00e0i h\u01a1n t\u1eebng \u0111\u1ebf ch\u1ebf. B\u1ea3ng ch\u1eef c\u00e1i, \u1ea9m th\u1ef1c, \u00e2m nh\u1ea1c \u0111a \u00e2m v\u00e0 nghi l\u1ec5 ti\u1ec7c t\u00f9ng c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 \u0111\u1ec1u mang d\u1ea5u \u1ea5n c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 li\u00ean t\u1ee5c\u2014kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i v\u00ec ch\u00fang kh\u00f4ng thay \u0111\u1ed5i, m\u00e0 v\u00ec ch\u00fang \u0111\u00e3 th\u00edch nghi m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng tan bi\u1ebfn. Tbilisi gi\u1eef nh\u1eefng s\u1ef1 li\u00ean t\u1ee5c n\u00e0y trong s\u1ef1 c\u0103ng th\u1eb3ng r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u01a1i c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 th\u1edd th\u1eddi trung c\u1ed5 v\u00e0 c\u00e1c t\u00f2a th\u00e1p h\u1eadu hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i c\u00e1ch nhau h\u00e0ng m\u00e9t; n\u01a1i t\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng thay \u0111\u1ed5i theo m\u1ed7i l\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u01b0\u1edbng l\u1ea1i ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb; n\u01a1i k\u00fd \u1ee9c v\u00e0 kh\u00e1t v\u1ecdng song h\u00e0nh c\u00f9ng nhau.<\/p>\n

B\u1ea3n s\u1eafc d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c \u1edf Tbilisi v\u1eabn l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ch\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ec1 nh\u1ea1y c\u1ea3m. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0y, t\u1eebng l\u00e0 n\u01a1i sinh s\u1ed1ng c\u1ee7a c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi Armenia v\u00e0 Do Th\u00e1i \u0111\u00f4ng \u0111\u00fac, gi\u1edd \u0111\u00e2y ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh m\u1ed9t c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng \u0111a s\u1ed1 ng\u01b0\u1eddi Gruzia \u0111\u1ed3ng nh\u1ea5t h\u01a1n. C\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u l\u00fd do: di c\u01b0, \u0111\u1ed3ng h\u00f3a, thi\u1ec3u s\u1ed1 h\u00f3a kinh t\u1ebf. Nh\u1eefng t\u00e0n t\u00edch v\u1eabn c\u00f2n - m\u1ed9t nh\u00e0 th\u1edd Armenia \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y, m\u1ed9t ti\u1ec7m b\u00e1nh Do Th\u00e1i \u1edf \u0111\u00f3 - nh\u01b0ng ch\u00fang kh\u00f4ng c\u00f2n l\u00e0 trung t\u00e2m c\u1ee7a nh\u00e2n kh\u1ea9u h\u1ecdc th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u1eefa. Tuy nhi\u00ean, trong nh\u1eefng kho\u1ea3nh kh\u1eafc kh\u1ee7ng ho\u1ea3ng ho\u1eb7c suy ng\u1eabm v\u1ec1 v\u0103n h\u00f3a, nh\u1eefng s\u1ef1 hi\u1ec7n di\u1ec7n trong qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 n\u00e0y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ghi nh\u1edb, g\u1ee3i l\u1ea1i, \u0111\u00f4i khi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c coi l\u00e0 h\u00e0ng h\u00f3a. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 kh\u00f4ng mi\u1ec5n nhi\u1ec5m v\u1edbi n\u1ed7i nh\u1edb, nh\u01b0ng hi\u1ebfm khi \u0111\u1eafm ch\u00ecm ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n v\u00e0o n\u1ed7i nh\u1edb. Qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 l\u1ed1i tho\u00e1t - m\u00e0 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 \u0111\u00e0m ph\u00e1n.<\/p>\n

Tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh ng\u01b0\u1eddi Gruzia \u1edf Tbilisi l\u00e0 gi\u1eef c\u1ea3 ph\u1ea9m gi\u00e1 v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 b\u1ea5t \u1ed5n. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 bi\u1ebft \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ee9c n\u1eb7ng c\u1ee7a l\u00f2ng hi\u1ebfu kh\u00e1ch v\u00e0 th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf c\u1ee7a bi\u00ean gi\u1edbi. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 ti\u1ebfp \u0111\u00f3n ng\u01b0\u1eddi l\u1ea1 m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch h\u00e0o ph\u00f3ng, v\u00e0 \u0111\u1eb7t c\u00e2u h\u1ecfi v\u1ec1 \u0111\u1ed9ng c\u01a1 c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd v\u00e0o ng\u00e0y h\u00f4m sau. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 coi m\u00ecnh v\u1eeba c\u1ed5 x\u01b0a v\u1eeba h\u01b0\u1edbng \u0111\u1ebfn t\u01b0\u01a1ng lai trong c\u00f9ng m\u1ed9t h\u01a1i th\u1edf.<\/p>\n

R\u00eca c\u1ee7a Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ecba l\u00fd\u2014m\u00e0 c\u00f2n l\u00e0 hi\u1ec7n sinh. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 r\u00eca c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c \u0111\u1ebf ch\u1ebf, r\u00eca c\u1ee7a ch\u00e2u \u00c2u, r\u00eca c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 ch\u1eafc ch\u1eafn. S\u1ef1 ng\u01b0\u1ee1ng n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 \u0111i\u1ec3m y\u1ebfu. N\u00f3 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o. T\u1eeb \u0111\u00f3 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n s\u1ee9c m\u1ea1nh \u1ee9ng bi\u1ebfn c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng th\u00edch nghi, lo\u1ea1i tr\u00ed tu\u1ec7 \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t c\u1ee7a n\u00f3\u2014m\u1ed9t tr\u00ed tu\u1ec7 kh\u00f4ng t\u00ecm c\u00e1ch gi\u1ea3i quy\u1ebft m\u00e2u thu\u1eabn, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 c\u01b0 ng\u1ee5 trong \u0111\u00f3 v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng v\u00e0 h\u00e0i h\u01b0\u1edbc.<\/p>\n

Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 con \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng d\u1eabn \u0111\u1ebfn b\u1ea5t c\u1ee9 n\u01a1i n\u00e0o. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t n\u01a1i t\u1ef1 th\u00e2n n\u00f3. V\u00e0 b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc c\u1ee7a n\u00f3, gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef c\u1ee7a n\u00f3, ch\u1ed1ng l\u1ea1i s\u1ef1 l\u00e0m ph\u1eb3ng. N\u00f3 n\u00f3i b\u1eb1ng nh\u1eefng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng cong, b\u1eb1ng ph\u1ee5 \u00e2m, b\u1eb1ng nh\u1eefng l\u1eddi ch\u00fac m\u1eebng v\u00e0 b\u00e0i h\u00e1t v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng cu\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e0m ph\u00e1n th\u00ec th\u1ea7m. N\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng y\u00eau c\u1ea7u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c hi\u1ec3u m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch nhanh ch\u00f3ng. N\u00f3 y\u00eau c\u1ea7u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u1edf l\u1ea1i.<\/p>\n

H\u00ecnh d\u1ea1ng c\u1ee7a cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y: Th\u1ef1c ph\u1ea9m, gia \u0111\u00ecnh v\u00e0 ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac gia \u0111\u00ecnh c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi gian<\/h2>\n

\u1ede Tbilisi, cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac theo l\u1ecbch tr\u00ecnh hay h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng, m\u00e0 theo m\u1ed9t v\u0169 \u0111\u1ea1o c\u00f3 nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u l\u1ecfng l\u1ebbo: ti\u1ebfng \u1ed3n \u00e0o bu\u1ed5i s\u00e1ng c\u1ee7a ch\u1ee3 v\u00e0 b\u1ebfp l\u00f2, s\u1ef1 t\u0129nh l\u1eb7ng gi\u1eefa tr\u01b0a len l\u1ecfi v\u00e0o s\u00e2n trong v\u00e0 qu\u00e1n c\u00e0 ph\u00ea, nh\u1eefng b\u1eefa t\u1ed1i mu\u1ed9n k\u00e9o d\u00e0i \u0111\u1ebfn n\u1eeda \u0111\u00eam v\u1edbi cu\u1ed9c tr\u00f2 chuy\u1ec7n v\u00e0 r\u01b0\u1ee3u vang. \u1ede \u0111\u00e2y, th\u1eddi gian l\u00e0 quan h\u1ec7. N\u00f3 k\u00e9o d\u00e0i v\u00e0 n\u00e9n l\u1ea1i t\u00f9y theo nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi t\u1ee5 t\u1eadp, nh\u1eefng g\u00ec \u0111ang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c chu\u1ea9n b\u1ecb ho\u1eb7c th\u1eddi ti\u1ebft trong ng\u00e0y \u0111\u00e3 l\u00e0m thay \u0111\u1ed5i t\u00e2m tr\u1ea1ng c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 nh\u01b0 th\u1ebf n\u00e0o.<\/p>\n

Cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng gia \u0111\u00ecnh \u1edf Tbilisi v\u00f4 c\u00f9ng g\u1ea7n g\u0169i. N\u00f3 b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u t\u1eeb ng\u01b0\u1ee1ng c\u1eeda, th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 ti\u1ebfng k\u1ebdo k\u1eb9t c\u1ee7a c\u1ea7u thang c\u0169, ti\u1ebfng g\u00f5 c\u1ee7a c\u00e2y g\u1eady c\u1ee7a h\u00e0ng x\u00f3m tr\u00ean g\u1ea1ch, m\u00f9i h\u1ed7n h\u1ee3p c\u1ee7a xi \u0111\u00e1nh b\u00f3ng s\u00e0n, kh\u00f3i thu\u1ed1c l\u00e1 v\u00e0 m\u00f9i b\u00e1nh m\u00ec n\u01b0\u1edbng t\u1eeb nhi\u1ec1u t\u1ea7ng b\u00ean d\u01b0\u1edbi. \u1ede nh\u1eefng khu ph\u1ed1 c\u0169 c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1\u2014Sololaki, Mtatsminda, Chugureti\u2014c\u00e1c t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 chung c\u01b0 t\u1eeb th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 19 v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ea7u th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 20 v\u1eabn l\u00e0 n\u01a1i sinh s\u1ed1ng c\u1ee7a nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ebf h\u1ec7. N\u1ed9i th\u1ea5t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u1ebfp l\u1edbp v\u1edbi l\u1ecbch s\u1eed gia \u0111\u00ecnh: t\u1ee7 pha l\u00ea, th\u1ea3m d\u1ec7t tay, \u1ea3nh m\u1edd ghim tr\u00ean c\u00f4ng t\u1eafc \u0111\u00e8n, tivi th\u00ec th\u1ea7m b\u00ean n\u1ed3i lobio ho\u1eb7c chakhokhbili b\u1ed1c h\u01a1i. Kh\u00f4ng gian \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c chia s\u1ebb, hi\u1ebfm khi ph\u00e2n chia. Ban c\u00f4ng \u0111\u00f3ng vai tr\u00f2 l\u00e0 ph\u00f2ng \u0111\u1ef1ng th\u1ee9c \u0103n, x\u01b0\u1edfng, nh\u00e0 k\u00ednh ho\u1eb7c ph\u00f2ng \u0103n t\u00f9y theo m\u00f9a.<\/p>\n

Th\u1ee9c \u0103n, h\u01a1n b\u1ea5t c\u1ee9 th\u1ee9 g\u00ec, \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u s\u1ef1 tr\u00f4i qua c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t ng\u00e0y. \u1ea8m th\u1ef1c Georgia kh\u00f4ng nhanh hay \u0111\u01a1n \u0111\u1ed9c. N\u00f3 \u0111\u00f2i h\u1ecfi th\u1eddi gian, s\u1ef1 ti\u1ebfp x\u00fac v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 tham gia. B\u1ed9t ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u00e0o, \u0111\u1ec3 y\u00ean, g\u1ea5p l\u1ea1i. Ph\u00f4 mai ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c k\u00e9o d\u00e0i, \u01b0\u1edbp mu\u1ed1i, \u1ee7. \u0110\u1eadu ph\u1ea3i ng\u00e2m, ninh, nghi\u1ec1n n\u00e1t v\u00e0 n\u00eam gia v\u1ecb. H\u00e0nh \u0111\u1ed9ng n\u1ea5u \u0103n kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01a1n thu\u1ea7n l\u00e0 nu\u00f4i d\u01b0\u1ee1ng m\u00e0 c\u00f2n l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c ti\u1ebfp n\u1ed1i x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i. C\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c n\u1ea5u \u0103n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c h\u1ecdc b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch quan s\u00e1t, b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch th\u1ef1c h\u00e0nh\u2014truy\u1ec1n l\u1ea1i b\u1eb1ng n\u1eafm tay v\u00e0 nh\u00fam, kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i b\u1eb1ng nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc c\u1ed1c \u0111ong.<\/p>\n

M\u1ed7i b\u1eefa \u0103n, ngay c\u1ea3 nh\u1eefng b\u1eefa \u0103n kh\u00f4ng ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c, \u0111\u1ec1u gi\u1eef l\u1ea1i c\u00e1c y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 nghi l\u1ec5. B\u00e1nh m\u00ec l\u00e0 th\u1ee9 kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 thi\u1ebfu\u2014th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 b\u00e1nh puri, n\u01b0\u1edbng trong l\u00f2 nung ch\u00ecm xu\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ea5t, th\u00e0nh l\u00f2 n\u00f3ng h\u1ed5i. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u00e1n h\u00e0ng k\u00e9o b\u00e1nh m\u00ec ra b\u1eb1ng nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc s\u00e0o m\u00f3c, v\u1ecf b\u00e1nh ph\u1ed3ng r\u1ed9p v\u00e0 v\u00e0ng \u01b0\u01a1m. Khachapuri, nh\u00e2n ph\u00f4 mai v\u00e0 c\u00f3 h\u00ecnh thuy\u1ec1n ho\u1eb7c tr\u00f2n, v\u1eeba l\u00e0 b\u1eefa \u0103n ch\u00ednh v\u1eeba l\u00e0 m\u00f3n \u0103n k\u00e8m. Phi\u00ean b\u1ea3n Imeretian th\u00ec d\u1eb9t v\u00e0 \u0111\u1eb7c; phi\u00ean b\u1ea3n Adjarian th\u00ec nhi\u1ec1u tr\u1ee9ng s\u1ed1ng n\u1eb1m gi\u1eefa ph\u00f4 mai v\u00e0 b\u01a1 tan ch\u1ea3y. Khinkali, b\u00e1nh bao xo\u1eafn b\u1eb1ng tay ch\u1ee9a \u0111\u1ea7y th\u1ecbt ho\u1eb7c n\u1ea5m t\u1ea9m gia v\u1ecb, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0103n m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch c\u1ed1 \u00fd b\u1eeba b\u00e3i\u2014c\u1eafn c\u1ea9n th\u1eadn \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u00e1nh l\u00e0m \u0111\u1ed5 n\u01b0\u1edbc d\u00f9ng, kh\u00f4ng bao gi\u1edd c\u1eaft b\u1eb1ng dao.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng m\u00f3n \u0103n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ebf bi\u1ebfn cho t\u1eebng kh\u1ea9u ph\u1ea7n \u0103n ri\u00eang l\u1ebb. Ch\u00fang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ec3 chia s\u1ebb, b\u00e0y tr\u00ean b\u00e0n, \u0103n c\u00f9ng m\u1ecdi ng\u01b0\u1eddi. B\u1ea3n th\u00e2n chi\u1ebfc b\u00e0n\u2014b\u1eb1ng g\u1ed7, th\u01b0\u1eddng qu\u00e1 kh\u1ed5, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bao quanh b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc gh\u1ebf kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ed3ng b\u1ed9\u2014tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh tr\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng gia \u0111\u00ecnh. C\u00e1c b\u1eefa \u0103n k\u00e9o d\u00e0i, b\u1ecb ng\u1eaft qu\u00e3ng b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng l\u1eddi ch\u00fac m\u1eebng, nh\u1eefng c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng cu\u1ed9c g\u1ecdi \u0111i\u1ec7n tho\u1ea1i. Tr\u1ebb con \u0111\u1ebfn r\u1ed3i \u0111i. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi h\u1ecd h\u00e0ng l\u1edbn tu\u1ed5i b\u00ecnh lu\u1eadn v\u1ec1 gia v\u1ecb. R\u01b0\u1ee3u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c r\u00f3t v\u00e0 r\u00f3t l\u1ea1i, ngay c\u1ea3 v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi mi\u1ec5n c\u01b0\u1ee1ng.<\/p>\n

C\u00f3 m\u1ed9t nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u trong nh\u1eefng b\u1eefa \u0103n n\u00e0y ch\u1ed1ng l\u1ea1i s\u1ef1 v\u1ed9i v\u00e3. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta kh\u00f4ng "c\u1eafn m\u1ed9t mi\u1ebfng". Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta \u0103n nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t h\u00e0nh \u0111\u1ed9ng hi\u1ec7n di\u1ec7n. \u1ede m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 ng\u00f4i nh\u00e0, b\u1eefa s\u00e1ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t b\u1eefa \u0103n khi\u00eam t\u1ed1n\u2014b\u00e1nh m\u00ec, ph\u00f4 mai, tr\u1ee9ng, m\u1ee9t\u2014nh\u01b0ng b\u1eefa tr\u01b0a th\u00ec \u0111\u1ea7y \u0111\u1ee7, v\u00e0 b\u1eefa t\u1ed1i, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 khi c\u00f3 kh\u00e1ch tham gia, c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 g\u1ea7n nh\u01b0 ho\u00e0nh tr\u00e1ng. Ngay c\u1ea3 bu\u1ed5i t\u1ed1i trong tu\u1ea7n c\u0169ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 k\u00e9o d\u00e0i \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1eadn khuya, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 v\u00e0o m\u00f9a h\u00e8 khi c\u00e1i n\u00f3ng k\u00e9o d\u00e0i sau ho\u00e0ng h\u00f4n v\u00e0 ban c\u00f4ng tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh ph\u00f2ng \u0103n ngo\u00e0i tr\u1eddi c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1.<\/p>\n

Ngo\u00e0i b\u00e0n \u0103n gia \u0111\u00ecnh, th\u1ef1c ph\u1ea9m th\u1ea5m nhu\u1ea7n v\u00e0o k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u \u0111\u00f4 th\u1ecb. C\u00e1c ti\u1ec7m b\u00e1nh nh\u1ecf r\u1ea3i r\u00e1c kh\u1eafp m\u1ecdi khu ph\u1ed1, c\u1eeda s\u1ed5 ph\u1ee7 \u0111\u1ea7y h\u01a1i n\u01b0\u1edbc, k\u1ec7 h\u00e0ng ch\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ea7y nh\u1eefng \u1ed5 b\u00e1nh m\u00ec \u1ea5m. C\u00e1c c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng b\u00e1n th\u1ecbt v\u00e0 pho m\u00e1t ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng d\u1ef1a tr\u00ean s\u1ef1 tin t\u01b0\u1edfng, c\u00e1c l\u1ef1a ch\u1ecdn c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u1ea3i th\u00edch b\u1eb1ng con m\u1eaft c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u00e1n h\u00e0ng ch\u1ee9 kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i b\u1eb1ng nh\u00e3n m\u00e1c. Dukanis\u2014c\u00e1c c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng nh\u1ecf do gia \u0111\u00ecnh qu\u1ea3n l\u00fd\u2014b\u00e1n m\u1ecdi th\u1ee9 t\u1eeb \u0111\u1eadu \u0111\u1ebfn pin. H\u1ecd c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 bi\u1ec3n hi\u1ec7u, ch\u1ec9 c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t t\u1ea5m r\u00e8m h\u1ea1t v\u00e0 m\u00f9i rau ng\u00e2m. M\u1ed7i c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t n\u1ec1n kinh t\u1ebf vi m\u00f4, th\u01b0\u1eddng do m\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef \u0111i\u1ec1u h\u00e0nh, ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u00e3 ch\u1ee9ng ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200bnhi\u1ec1u th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 tr\u1ebb em trong khu ph\u1ed1 l\u1edbn l\u00ean v\u00e0 chuy\u1ec3n \u0111i.<\/p>\n

Ch\u1ee3 th\u1ef1c ph\u1ea9m ngo\u00e0i tr\u1eddi m\u1edf r\u1ed9ng th\u00eam ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac c\u1ee7a cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng th\u01b0\u1eddng ng\u00e0y n\u00e0y. Ch\u1ee3 Station Square, Dezertirebi, Ortachala\u2014t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 \u0111\u1ec1u nh\u1ed9n nh\u1ecbp v\u1edbi c\u00e1c nguy\u00ean li\u1ec7u c\u1ee7a b\u1eefa \u0103n: c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i th\u1ea3o m\u1ed9c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u00f3 th\u00e0nh t\u1eebng b\u00f3, qu\u1ea3 \u00f3c ch\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eadp b\u1eb1ng tay, c\u00e1c th\u00f9ng tkemali (n\u01b0\u1edbc s\u1ed1t m\u1eadn chua) m\u00e0u xanh l\u00e1 c\u00e2y v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ecf, adjika (b\u1ed9t cay) \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00f3ng g\u00f3i trong c\u00e1c l\u1ecd nh\u1ef1a. C\u00e1c giao d\u1ecbch th\u01b0\u1eddng kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 l\u1eddi. M\u1ed9t c\u1eed ch\u1ec9, m\u1ed9t c\u00e1i nh\u00ecn, m\u1ed9t b\u00e0n tay c\u00e2n nh\u1eafc l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ee7. Nh\u1eefng khu ch\u1ee3 n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng h\u01b0\u1edbng \u0111\u1ebfn s\u1ef1 ti\u1ec7n l\u1ee3i\u2014ch\u00fang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c theo th\u00f3i quen nhi\u1ec1u h\u01a1n l\u00e0 logic\u2014nh\u01b0ng ch\u00fang v\u1eabn t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t c\u01a1 s\u1edf h\u1ea1 t\u1ea7ng s\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ed9ng, thi\u1ebft y\u1ebfu.<\/p>\n

C\u1ea5u tr\u00fac gia \u0111\u00ecnh v\u1eabn l\u00e0 trung t\u00e2m, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 \u0111ang trong qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh chuy\u1ec3n \u0111\u1ed5i \u00e2m th\u1ea7m. Theo truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng, c\u00e1c h\u1ed9 gia \u0111\u00ecnh l\u00e0 nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ebf h\u1ec7, v\u1edbi \u00f4ng b\u00e0, con c\u00e1i v\u00e0 ch\u00e1u ch\u1eaft c\u00f9ng chung m\u1ed9t m\u00e1i nh\u00e0. Trong th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 X\u00f4 Vi\u1ebft, c\u00e1c c\u0103n h\u1ed9 chung m\u1edf r\u1ed9ng s\u1ef1 th\u00e2n m\u1eadt n\u00e0y gi\u1eefa c\u00e1c gia \u0111\u00ecnh kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 quan h\u1ec7 h\u1ecd h\u00e0ng. \u00c1p l\u1ef1c kinh t\u1ebf sau khi gi\u00e0nh \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ed9c l\u1eadp \u0111\u00e3 ph\u00e1 v\u1ee1 m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 th\u1ecfa thu\u1eadn n\u00e0y, trong khi c\u00e1c l\u00e0n s\u00f3ng di c\u01b0 \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0a nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi Gruzia tr\u1ebb tu\u1ed5i ra n\u01b0\u1edbc ngo\u00e0i, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef l\u00e0m ngh\u1ec1 ch\u0103m s\u00f3c t\u1ea1i \u00dd, Hy L\u1ea1p v\u00e0 \u0110\u1ee9c. Ti\u1ec1n ki\u1ec1u h\u1ed1i duy tr\u00ec cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng c\u1ee7a nhi\u1ec1u h\u1ed9 gia \u0111\u00ecnh, ngay c\u1ea3 khi s\u1ef1 v\u1eafng m\u1eb7t \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh l\u1ea1i ch\u00fang.<\/p>\n

Ng\u00e0y nay, t\u1ea1i Tbilisi, nhi\u1ec1u ng\u00f4i nh\u00e0 v\u1eabn ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh nh\u1eefng m\u00f4 h\u00ecnh th\u1eeba h\u01b0\u1edfng n\u00e0y. B\u00e0 th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u0103m s\u00f3c ch\u00ednh; \u00f4ng l\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u1ea3o v\u1ec7 l\u1ecbch s\u1eed gia \u0111\u00ecnh. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi tr\u1ebb tu\u1ed5i c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 s\u1ed1ng \u1edf nh\u00e0 cho \u0111\u1ebfn khi k\u1ebft h\u00f4n ho\u1eb7c tr\u1edf v\u1ec1 sau th\u1eddi gian c\u00f4ng t\u00e1c \u1edf n\u01b0\u1edbc ngo\u00e0i. S\u1ef1 ri\u00eang t\u01b0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e0m ph\u00e1n t\u1eebng ph\u00f2ng, t\u1eebng ng\u00e0y. Nh\u1eefng cu\u1ed9c tranh c\u00e3i vang v\u1ecdng qua c\u00e1c c\u1ea7u thang chung. T\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1ef1 nh\u01b0 v\u1eady, l\u1ec5 k\u1ef7 ni\u1ec7m tr\u00e0n v\u00e0o s\u00e2n, hi\u00ean nh\u00e0, tr\u00ean ch\u00ednh con ph\u1ed1.<\/p>\n

Kh\u00f4ng gian gia \u0111\u00ecnh c\u0169ng mang t\u00ednh gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef th\u1ed1ng tr\u1ecb nh\u00e0 b\u1ebfp, ng\u00e2n s\u00e1ch, nh\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec7u ch\u0103m s\u00f3c. \u0110\u00e0n \u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c k\u1ef3 v\u1ecdng s\u1ebd chu c\u1ea5p, n\u00e2ng ly, l\u00e3nh \u0111\u1ea1o. Tuy nhi\u00ean, nh\u1eefng vai tr\u00f2 n\u00e0y th\u01b0\u1eddng b\u1ecb \u0111\u1ea3o ng\u01b0\u1ee3c trong th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf, b\u1ecb l\u00e0m m\u1edd nh\u1ea1t b\u1edfi nhu c\u1ea7u kinh t\u1ebf v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i th\u1ebf h\u1ec7. M\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi b\u00e0 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi ki\u1ebfm ti\u1ec1n \u1ed5n \u0111\u1ecbnh nh\u1ea5t. M\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi con trai c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 n\u1ea5u \u0103n trong khi m\u1eb9 anh ta qu\u1ea3n l\u00fd t\u00e0i kho\u1ea3n c\u1ee7a gia \u0111\u00ecnh. Nh\u1eefng \u0111i\u1ec1u ch\u1ec9nh n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng di\u1ec5n ra nh\u01b0 nh\u1eefng tuy\u00ean b\u1ed1, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 th\u00edch nghi.<\/p>\n

T\u00f4n gi\u00e1o c\u0169ng t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i trong ph\u1ea1m vi gia \u0111\u00ecnh. C\u00e1c bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng trong b\u1ebfp, nh\u1eefng c\u00e2y th\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 nh\u1ecf tr\u00ean c\u1eeda ra v\u00e0o, n\u01b0\u1edbc th\u00e1nh trong chai nh\u1ef1a t\u00e1i ch\u1ebf\u2014Ch\u00ednh th\u1ed1ng gi\u00e1o v\u1eabn \u0103n s\u00e2u v\u00e0o k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u c\u1ee7a ng\u00f4i nh\u00e0. C\u1ea7u nguy\u1ec7n kh\u00f4ng nh\u1ea5t thi\u1ebft ph\u1ea3i c\u00f4ng khai hay tr\u00ecnh di\u1ec5n; n\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00edch h\u1ee3p, tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh th\u00f3i quen. Ngay c\u1ea3 trong s\u1ed1 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi kh\u00f4ng tu\u00e2n th\u1ee7, c\u00e1c c\u1eed ch\u1ec9 nghi l\u1ec5 v\u1eabn t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i: t\u1ef1 l\u00e0m d\u1ea5u th\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 khi \u0111i qua nh\u00e0 th\u1edd, th\u1eafp n\u1ebfn cho ng\u01b0\u1eddi th\u00e2n \u0111\u00e3 khu\u1ea5t, \u0103n chay tr\u01b0\u1edbc ng\u00e0y l\u1ec5. \u0110\u1ee9c tin kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00fac n\u00e0o c\u0169ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 nh\u00ecn th\u1ea5y, nh\u01b0ng hi\u1ebfm khi v\u1eafng m\u1eb7t.<\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng ng\u00f4i nh\u00e0 \u1edf Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng gian trung l\u1eadp. Ch\u00fang mang tr\u00ean m\u00ecnh s\u1ee9c n\u1eb7ng c\u1ee7a l\u1ecbch s\u1eed\u2014\u0111\u1ed3 n\u1ed9i th\u1ea5t Li\u00ean X\u00f4 b\u00ean c\u1ea1nh \u0111\u00e8n IKEA, v\u1ea3i lanh th\u00eau d\u01b0\u1edbi m\u00e1y t\u00ednh x\u00e1ch tay, \u1ea3nh c\u01b0\u1edbi phai m\u00e0u n\u00e2u \u0111\u1ecf, \u0111\u1ed3 ch\u01a1i tr\u1ebb em n\u1eb1m r\u1ea3i r\u00e1c b\u00ean c\u1ea1nh \u0111\u1ed3 gia truy\u1ec1n. M\u1ed7i \u0111\u1ed3 v\u1eadt \u0111\u1ec1u mang m\u1ed9t c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n, m\u1ed7i b\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t m\u1ea3nh gh\u00e9p c\u1ee7a \u00fd \u0111\u1ecbnh v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 th\u1ecfa hi\u1ec7p. Vi\u1ec7c c\u1ea3i t\u1ea1o di\u1ec5n ra ch\u1eadm ch\u1ea1p, n\u1ebfu c\u00f3. M\u1ed9t c\u0103n ph\u00f2ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u01a1n l\u1ea1i m\u1ed9t n\u0103m, s\u00e0n nh\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e1t l\u1ea1i v\u00e0o n\u0103m sau. Nh\u1eefng ch\u1ed7 r\u00f2 r\u1ec9 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c v\u00e1 l\u1ea1i. Nh\u1eefng v\u1ebft n\u1ee9t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ea5p nh\u1eadn. Kho nh\u00e0 \u1edf c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00e2n c\u1ee7a n\u00f3, cho th\u1ea5y nh\u1eefng d\u1ea5u hi\u1ec7u xu\u1ed1ng c\u1ea5p. Nh\u01b0ng n\u00f3 ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng, n\u00f3 th\u00edch nghi, n\u00f3 t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eddi v\u00e0o nh\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi Tbilisi l\u00e0 \u0111i\u1ec1u c\u1ea7n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c coi tr\u1ecdng. \u0110\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 c\u1eed ch\u1ec9 l\u1ecbch s\u1ef1\u2014m\u00e0 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c h\u00f2a nh\u1eadp. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta mong \u0111\u1ee3i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0103n, \u1edf l\u1ea1i l\u00e2u, n\u00f3i chuy\u1ec7n tho\u1ea3i m\u00e1i. Ch\u1ee7 nh\u00e0 s\u1ebd kh\u0103ng kh\u0103ng ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5. Kh\u00e1ch \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c mong \u0111\u1ee3i ch\u1ea5p nh\u1eadn. C\u00e1c ranh gi\u1edbi th\u00ec m\u1ec1m m\u1ecfng, nh\u01b0ng ph\u00e9p x\u00e3 giao th\u00ec c\u1ee9ng r\u1eafn. \u0110\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 tr\u00ecnh di\u1ec5n. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 phong t\u1ee5c.<\/p>\n

Theo c\u00e1ch n\u00e0y, cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng gia \u0111\u00ecnh \u1edf Tbilisi v\u1eabn ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c ch\u1ed1ng l\u1ea1i s\u1ef1 h\u00e0ng h\u00f3a h\u00f3a. N\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ec9nh s\u1eeda \u0111\u1ec3 ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 du l\u1ecbch, c\u0169ng kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eafp x\u1ebfp l\u1ea1i \u0111\u1ec3 ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9. N\u00f3 v\u1eabn b\u1eaft ngu\u1ed3n t\u1eeb s\u1ef1 c\u1ea7n thi\u1ebft, trong m\u1ed1i quan h\u1ec7, trong m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i duy\u00ean d\u00e1ng b\u01b0\u1edbng b\u1ec9nh. Nh\u1ecbp s\u1ed1ng c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 thay \u0111\u1ed5i, \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ch\u00e2n tr\u1eddi c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n, nh\u01b0ng b\u00ean trong nh\u1eefng ng\u00f4i nh\u00e0 c\u1ee7a n\u00f3, h\u00ecnh d\u1ea1ng c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi gian v\u1eabn tr\u00f2n: nh\u1eefng b\u1eefa \u0103n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1eb7p l\u1ea1i, nh\u1eefng c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c k\u1ec3 l\u1ea1i, nh\u1eefng m\u00f9a \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ef1 \u0111o\u00e1n trong nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc l\u1ecd, n\u01b0\u1edbc s\u1ed1t v\u00e0 b\u00e0i h\u00e1t.<\/p>\n

Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t b\u1ea3n th\u1ea3o vi\u1ebft tay: D\u1ea5u v\u1ebft c\u1ee7a Li\u00ean X\u00f4 v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng c\u0103ng th\u1eb3ng h\u1eadu X\u00f4 Vi\u1ebft<\/h2>\n

Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 d\u1ec5 qu\u00ean. C\u00e1c c\u00f4ng tr\u00ecnh ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac, k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u, s\u1ef1 im l\u1eb7ng c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1\u2014t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 \u0111\u1ec1u mang d\u1ea5u \u1ea5n c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 chi\u1ebfm \u0111\u00f3ng v\u00e0 \u00fd th\u1ee9c h\u1ec7. Kh\u00f4ng n\u01a1i n\u00e0o \u0111i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng h\u01a1n l\u00e0 \u1edf nh\u1eefng t\u00e0n t\u00edch c\u1ee7a qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 X\u00f4 Vi\u1ebft, nh\u1eefng th\u1ee9 kh\u00f4ng t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i nh\u01b0 nh\u1eefng t\u00e1c ph\u1ea9m b\u1ea3o t\u00e0ng hay \u0111\u1ed3 trang tr\u00ed ho\u00e0i c\u1ed5, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng l\u1edbp ch\u01b0a \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u1ea3i quy\u1ebft trong b\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac v\u00e0 t\u00e2m l\u00fd c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. Th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 X\u00f4 Vi\u1ebft\u2014b\u1ea3y m\u01b0\u01a1i n\u0103m \u00e1p \u0111\u1eb7t \u00fd th\u1ee9c h\u1ec7, ki\u1ec3m so\u00e1t th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 v\u00e0 chuy\u1ec3n \u0111\u1ed5i v\u1eadt ch\u1ea5t\u2014kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n l\u00e0 \u0111i qua Tbilisi. N\u00f3 \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh l\u1ea1i th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. V\u00e0 n\u00f3 ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh c\u00e1ch Tbilisi nh\u00ecn nh\u1eadn ch\u00ednh m\u00ecnh trong hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i.<\/p>\n

\u1ea2nh h\u01b0\u1edfng n\u00e0y d\u1ec5 th\u1ea5y nh\u1ea5t trong m\u00f4i tr\u01b0\u1eddng x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng. T\u1eeb ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac ho\u00e0nh tr\u00e1ng \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1ea7m th\u01b0\u1eddng, ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac th\u1eddi Li\u00ean X\u00f4 v\u1eabn l\u00e0 \u0111i\u1ec1u kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 tr\u00e1nh kh\u1ecfi. T\u00f2a nh\u00e0 B\u1ed9 \u0110\u01b0\u1eddng b\u1ed9 - hi\u1ec7n do Ng\u00e2n h\u00e0ng Georgia chi\u1ebfm gi\u1eef - c\u00f3 l\u1ebd l\u00e0 v\u00ed d\u1ee5 mang t\u00ednh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng nh\u1ea5t. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf v\u00e0o \u0111\u1ea7u nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1970 b\u1edfi c\u00e1c ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac s\u01b0 George Chakhava v\u00e0 Zurab Jalaghania, t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 n\u00e0y s\u1eebng s\u1eefng tr\u00ean S\u00f4ng Kura nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t l\u1eddi c\u1ea3m th\u00e1n b\u1eb1ng b\u00ea t\u00f4ng, c\u00e1c kh\u1ed1i nh\u00f4 ra c\u1ee7a t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 x\u1ebfp ch\u1ed3ng l\u00ean nhau nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t t\u00f2a th\u00e1p Jenga theo phong c\u00e1ch Brutalist. T\u00f2a nh\u00e0 v\u1eeba t\u00e1o b\u1ea1o v\u1eeba kh\u1eafc kh\u1ed5, m\u1ed9t c\u00f4ng tr\u00ecnh ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac thu h\u00fat s\u1ef1 ng\u01b0\u1ee1ng m\u1ed9 v\u00e0 ho\u00e0i nghi ngang nhau. \u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 ng\u01b0\u1eddi, \u0111\u00e2y l\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ed5i m\u1edbi c\u1ee7a Li\u00ean X\u00f4; \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi kh\u00e1c, \u0111\u00e2y l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 \u00e1p \u0111\u1eb7t c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi ngo\u00e0i h\u00e0nh tinh l\u00ean c\u1ea3nh quan Georgia.<\/p>\n

C\u00e1c di t\u00edch kh\u00e1c c\u1ee7a Li\u00ean X\u00f4 \u00edt \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ca ng\u1ee3i h\u01a1n nh\u01b0ng l\u1ea1i ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn h\u01a1n. C\u00e1c nh\u00e0 ga t\u00e0u \u0111i\u1ec7n ng\u1ea7m, v\u1edbi m\u1eb7t ti\u1ec1n b\u1eb1ng \u0111\u00e1 c\u1ea9m th\u1ea1ch v\u00e0 h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng chi\u1ebfu s\u00e1ng m\u1ea1nh, v\u1eabn gi\u1eef \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00ednh th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 c\u1ee7a ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a l\u1ea1c quan cu\u1ed1i th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a\u2014tr\u1eadt t\u1ef1, ho\u00e0nh tr\u00e1ng, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng c\u00f3 m\u1ee5c \u0111\u00edch. C\u00e1c kh\u1ed1i nh\u00e0 l\u1eafp gh\u00e9p\u2014khrushchyovkas v\u00e0 brezhnevkas\u2014tr\u1ea3i d\u00e0i kh\u1eafp Saburtalo, Gldani v\u00e0 Varketili, m\u1eb7t ti\u1ec1n c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1eafp m\u00e1y \u0111i\u1ec1u h\u00f2a kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed, ch\u1ea3o v\u1ec7 tinh v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng c\u1ea3i ti\u1ebfn c\u1ee7a vi\u1ec7c s\u1eeda ch\u1eefa t\u01b0 nh\u00e2n. Nh\u1eefng t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 n\u00e0y, t\u1eebng l\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a b\u00ecnh \u0111\u1eb3ng v\u00e0 ti\u1ebfn b\u1ed9, gi\u1edd \u0111\u00e2y l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 m\u00e2u thu\u1eabn: c\u1ea7n thi\u1ebft nh\u01b0ng c\u0169 k\u1ef9, quen thu\u1ed9c nh\u01b0ng kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c y\u00eau th\u00edch.<\/p>\n

C\u00e1c t\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u00e0i t\u1eeb th\u1eddi Li\u00ean X\u00f4 v\u1eabn n\u1eb1m r\u1ea3i r\u00e1c kh\u1eafp th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 nhi\u1ec1u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u00e3 b\u1ecb g\u1ee1 b\u1ecf, \u0111\u1ed5i t\u00ean ho\u1eb7c b\u1ecb b\u1ecf qua m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch l\u1eb7ng l\u1ebd. T\u01b0\u1ee3ng Lenin tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u00e2y, t\u1eebng ng\u1ef1 tr\u1ecb Qu\u1ea3ng tr\u01b0\u1eddng T\u1ef1 do, \u0111\u00e3 b\u1ecb ph\u00e1 b\u1ecf v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1991. S\u1ef1 v\u1eafng m\u1eb7t c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u b\u1eb1ng c\u1ed9t tr\u1ee5 hi\u1ec7n \u0111ang gi\u1eef Th\u00e1nh George\u2014m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 v\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng m\u00e0 c\u00f2n v\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t tr\u1ecdng l\u1ef1c \u00fd th\u1ee9c h\u1ec7. C\u00e1c \u0111\u00e0i t\u01b0\u1edfng ni\u1ec7m Li\u00ean X\u00f4 nh\u1ecf h\u01a1n v\u1eabn r\u1ea3i r\u00e1c trong c\u00e1c c\u00f4ng vi\u00ean v\u00e0 s\u00e2n trong: ph\u00f9 \u0111i\u00eau c\u00f4ng nh\u00e2n, c\u00e1c t\u1ea5m b\u1ea3ng t\u01b0\u1edfng ni\u1ec7m s\u1ef1 hy sinh trong chi\u1ebfn tranh, tranh gh\u00e9p \u1edf c\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng h\u1ea7m v\u00e0 c\u1ea7u thang. H\u1ea7u h\u1ebft \u0111\u1ec1u kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u00fa \u00fd. M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 b\u1ecb b\u00f4i b\u1ea9n. M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 \u00edt \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1ea3o tr\u00ec.<\/p>\n

Nh\u01b0ng kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 d\u1ea5u v\u1ebft c\u1ee7a Li\u00ean X\u00f4 \u0111\u1ec1u tr\u1ef1c quan. C\u00e1c khu\u00f4n kh\u1ed5 x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i v\u00e0 th\u1ec3 ch\u1ebf \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u00e1p \u0111\u1eb7t trong th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 Li\u00ean X\u00f4\u2014gi\u00e1o d\u1ee5c t\u1eadp trung, vi\u1ec7c l\u00e0m trong ng\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p, c\u1ea3nh s\u00e1t m\u1eadt\u2014\u0111\u1ec3 l\u1ea1i d\u1ea5u \u1ea5n s\u00e2u s\u1eafc h\u01a1n. Nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi Tbilisi tr\u01b0\u1edfng th\u00e0nh trong h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng \u0111\u00f3, v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng th\u00f3i quen m\u00e0 n\u00f3 t\u1ea1o ra v\u1eabn c\u00f2n t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i. Ng\u00f4n ng\u1eef quan li\u00eau v\u1eabn mang t\u00ednh h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c v\u00e0 gi\u00e1n ti\u1ebfp. C\u00e1c th\u1ec3 ch\u1ebf c\u00f4ng v\u1eabn mang ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac ki\u1ec3m so\u00e1t: h\u00e0nh lang d\u00e0i, gi\u1ea5y t\u1edd \u0111\u00f3ng d\u1ea5u, nh\u00e2n vi\u00ean v\u0103n ph\u00f2ng sau k\u00ednh. V\u0103n h\u00f3a phi ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c\u2014\u1ee7ng h\u1ed9, gi\u1ea3i ph\u00e1p t\u1ea1m th\u1eddi, \u0111\u00e0m ph\u00e1n\u2014n\u1ed5i l\u00ean nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfn l\u01b0\u1ee3c sinh t\u1ed3n d\u01b0\u1edbi s\u1ef1 r\u00e0ng bu\u1ed9c c\u1ee7a Li\u00ean X\u00f4 v\u00e0 v\u1eabn ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c cho \u0111\u1ebfn th\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i sau Li\u00ean X\u00f4.<\/p>\n

S\u1ef1 s\u1ee5p \u0111\u1ed5 c\u1ee7a Li\u00ean X\u00f4 n\u0103m 1991 kh\u00f4ng mang l\u1ea1i s\u1ef1 r\u1ea1n n\u1ee9t r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng. N\u00f3 mang l\u1ea1i s\u1ef1 ph\u00e2n m\u1ea3nh, kh\u1ee7ng ho\u1ea3ng kinh t\u1ebf v\u00e0, trong tr\u01b0\u1eddng h\u1ee3p c\u1ee7a Gruzia, l\u00e0 n\u1ed9i chi\u1ebfn. Trong ph\u1ea7n l\u1edbn nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1990, Tbilisi \u0111\u00e3 ph\u1ea3i ch\u1ecbu \u0111\u1ef1ng t\u00ecnh tr\u1ea1ng m\u1ea5t \u0111i\u1ec7n, si\u00eau l\u1ea1m ph\u00e1t v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 s\u1ee5p \u0111\u1ed5 c\u1ee7a c\u01a1 s\u1edf h\u1ea1 t\u1ea7ng. Nh\u1eefng n\u0103m \u0111\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng d\u1ec5 d\u00e0ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 h\u00f3a. Ch\u00fang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ghi nh\u1edb b\u1eb1ng m\u00f9i - l\u00f2 s\u01b0\u1edfi d\u1ea7u h\u1ecfa, n\u1ea5m m\u1ed1c, b\u00ea t\u00f4ng \u01b0\u1edbt - v\u00e0 b\u1eb1ng \u00e2m thanh: ti\u1ebfng m\u00e1y ph\u00e1t \u0111i\u1ec7n l\u1eafp b\u1eafp, s\u1ef1 v\u1eafng b\u00f3ng c\u1ee7a giao th\u00f4ng. \u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi, nh\u1eefng k\u00fd \u1ee9c n\u00e0y l\u00e0 b\u1ea3n n\u0103ng v\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c n\u00f3i ra. Ch\u00fang h\u00ecnh th\u00e0nh n\u00ean kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng ph\u1ee5c h\u1ed3i th\u1ea7m l\u1eb7ng, s\u1ef1 ho\u00e0i nghi th\u1ef1c d\u1ee5ng \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng l\u1eddi h\u1ee9a c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 n\u01b0\u1edbc.<\/p>\n

S\u1ef1 ph\u1ee5c h\u1ed3i h\u1eadu X\u00f4 Vi\u1ebft mang l\u1ea1i nh\u1eefng c\u0103ng th\u1eb3ng m\u1edbi. Cu\u1ed9c C\u00e1ch m\u1ea1ng Hoa h\u1ed3ng n\u0103m 2003, do Mikheil Saakashvili l\u00e3nh \u0111\u1ea1o, h\u1ee9a h\u1eb9n hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i h\u00f3a v\u00e0 h\u1ed9i nh\u1eadp v\u1edbi ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y. Tham nh\u0169ng \u0111\u00e3 b\u1ecb h\u1ea1n ch\u1ebf. C\u00e1c d\u1ecbch v\u1ee5 c\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3i thi\u1ec7n. \u0110\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ed1 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ecdn d\u1eb9p, m\u1eb7t ti\u1ec1n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u01a1n l\u1ea1i, \u0111\u1ea7u t\u01b0 n\u01b0\u1edbc ngo\u00e0i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3n. Tuy nhi\u00ean, s\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ed5i m\u1edbi n\u00e0y \u0111i k\u00e8m v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng c\u00e1i gi\u00e1 c\u1ee7a ri\u00eang n\u00f3: s\u1ef1 sang tr\u1ecdng h\u00f3a, s\u1ef1 di d\u1eddi v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 thay th\u1ebf nh\u1eefng huy\u1ec1n tho\u1ea1i X\u00f4 Vi\u1ebft b\u1eb1ng nh\u1eefng huy\u1ec1n tho\u1ea1i t\u00e2n t\u1ef1 do. K\u00ednh thay th\u1ebf \u0111\u00e1 c\u1ea9m th\u1ea1ch. \u0110\u1ed3ng ph\u1ee5c c\u1ea3nh s\u00e1t \u0111\u00e3 thay \u0111\u1ed5i, nh\u01b0ng b\u1ed9 m\u00e1y ki\u1ec3m so\u00e1t s\u00e2u h\u01a1n v\u1eabn c\u00f2n.<\/p>\n

Ng\u00e0y nay, Tbilisi t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i trong s\u1ef1 c\u00e2n b\u1eb1ng kh\u00f4ng d\u1ec5 ch\u1ecbu gi\u1eefa s\u1ef1 t\u1eeb ch\u1ed1i v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 k\u1ebf th\u1eeba. C\u00e1c t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 c\u1ee7a Li\u00ean X\u00f4 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3i t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh c\u00e1c qu\u00e1n c\u00e0 ph\u00ea v\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng gian l\u00e0m vi\u1ec7c chung. C\u00e1c v\u0103n ph\u00f2ng KGB c\u0169 gi\u1edd l\u00e0 c\u00e1c c\u0103n h\u1ed9. C\u00e1c nh\u00f3m thanh ni\u00ean t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c c\u00e1c bu\u1ed5i bi\u1ec3u di\u1ec5n DJ trong c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 m\u00e1y b\u1ecf hoang. Nh\u1eefng g\u00ec c\u00f2n l\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00e1i ng\u1eef c\u1ea3nh h\u00f3a, di\u1ec5n gi\u1ea3i l\u1ea1i\u2014th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 m\u1ec9a mai, \u0111\u00f4i khi l\u00e0 t\u00f4n k\u00ednh, \u0111\u00f4i khi l\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng bi\u1ebft \u0111\u1ebfn ch\u1ee9c n\u0103ng ban \u0111\u1ea7u c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang.<\/p>\n

S\u1ef1 m\u00e2u thu\u1eabn n\u00e0y c\u0169ng di\u1ec5n ra trong ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt v\u00e0 v\u0103n h\u00f3a. C\u00e1c nh\u00e0 l\u00e0m phim, nh\u00e0 v\u0103n v\u00e0 ngh\u1ec7 s\u0129 th\u1ecb gi\u00e1c ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c khai th\u00e1c qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 X\u00f4 Vi\u1ebft, kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u1ec3 l\u00ean \u00e1n hay l\u00fd t\u01b0\u1edfng h\u00f3a n\u00f3, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ec3 hi\u1ec3u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00e0n d\u01b0 c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. C\u00e1c phim t\u00e0i li\u1ec7u nh\u01b0 When the Earth Seems to Be Light theo d\u1ea5u c\u00e1c n\u1ec1n v\u0103n h\u00f3a ph\u1ee5 c\u1ee7a gi\u1edbi tr\u1ebb tr\u00ean n\u1ec1n t\u1ea3ng c\u01a1 s\u1edf h\u1ea1 t\u1ea7ng \u0111ang xu\u1ed1ng c\u1ea5p. C\u00e1c t\u00e1c ph\u1ea9m s\u1eafp \u0111\u1eb7t trong c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 t\u1eafm c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng ho\u1eb7c kho l\u01b0u tr\u1eef nh\u00e0 n\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u00e3 ng\u1eebng ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng kh\u00e1m ph\u00e1 k\u00fd \u1ee9c, s\u1ef1 x\u00f3a b\u1ecf v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 g\u1eafn b\u00f3. V\u0103n h\u1ecdc \u0111i\u1ec1u h\u01b0\u1edbng kho\u1ea3ng c\u00e1ch gi\u1eefa nh\u1eefng g\u00ec \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1ea3i qua v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng g\u00ec \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u00e9p n\u00f3i.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 tr\u1ebb, sinh ra sau khi gi\u00e0nh \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ed9c l\u1eadp nh\u01b0ng l\u1edbn l\u00ean sau \u0111\u00f3, qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 X\u00f4 Vi\u1ebft v\u1eeba xa v\u1eddi v\u1eeba g\u1ea7n g\u0169i. H\u1ecd kh\u00f4ng tr\u1ef1c ti\u1ebfp tr\u1ea3i nghi\u1ec7m n\u00f3, nh\u01b0ng h\u1eadu qu\u1ea3 c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd: nh\u00e0 \u1edf th\u1eeba h\u01b0\u1edfng t\u1eeb \u00f4ng b\u00e0, h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng l\u01b0\u01a1ng h\u01b0u m\u00f4 ph\u1ecfng theo c\u00e1c h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c l\u1ed7i th\u1eddi, c\u00e1c c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac ph\u00e1p l\u00fd v\u1eabn \u0111ang v\u1eadt l\u1ed9n v\u1edbi qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh d\u1ecbch thu\u1eadt. Qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 kh\u00f4ng bi\u1ebfn m\u1ea5t. N\u00f3 \u0111\u00e3 \u0103n s\u00e2u v\u00e0o.<\/p>\n

Theo c\u00e1ch n\u00e0y, Tbilisi ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t palimpsest\u2014m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng l\u1ea1i, m\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c vi\u1ebft l\u1ea1i theo th\u1eddi gian, m\u1ed7i l\u1edbp \u0111\u1ec1u c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 nh\u00ecn th\u1ea5y b\u00ean d\u01b0\u1edbi l\u1edbp ti\u1ebfp theo. Th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 X\u00f4 Vi\u1ebft l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng l\u1edbp \u0111\u00f3: kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 n\u1ec1n t\u1ea3ng, nh\u01b0ng kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 tr\u00e1nh kh\u1ecfi. B\u1ecf qua n\u00f3 s\u1ebd l\u00e0 hi\u1ec3u sai v\u1ec1 c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. T\u1eadp trung v\u00e0o n\u00f3 s\u1ebd l\u00e0 hi\u1ec3u sai v\u1ec1 \u0111\u1ed9ng l\u1ef1c c\u1ee7a n\u00f3.<\/p>\n

C\u00e1ch ti\u1ebfp c\u1eadn trung th\u1ef1c nh\u1ea5t c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u00e0 th\u1eeba nh\u1eadn n\u00f3 nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t v\u1eadt ch\u1ea5t: nh\u01b0 b\u00ea t\u00f4ng v\u00e0 th\u00e9p, nh\u01b0 ch\u00ednh s\u00e1ch v\u00e0 k\u00fd \u1ee9c, nh\u01b0 th\u00f3i quen v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 t\u1eeb ch\u1ed1i. Qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9, \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y, kh\u00f4ng b\u1ecb \u0111\u00f3ng b\u0103ng trong c\u00e1c t\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u00e0i. N\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ed1ng trong nh\u1eefng thang m\u00e1y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00fac n\u00e0o c\u0169ng ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng, trong c\u00e1c h\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng s\u01b0\u1edfi \u1ea5m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c v\u00e1 b\u1eb1ng \u1ed1ng nh\u1ef1a, trong c\u00e1c cu\u1ed9c tr\u00f2 chuy\u1ec7n v\u1ec1 l\u00f2ng tin, r\u1ee7i ro v\u00e0 k\u00fd \u1ee9c t\u1eadp th\u1ec3.<\/p>\n

Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng gi\u1ea3i quy\u1ebft \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh. N\u00f3 ch\u1ee9a \u0111\u1ef1ng n\u00f3. \u0110\u00f4i khi m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch v\u1ee5ng v\u1ec1. Th\u01b0\u1eddng th\u00ec m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch \u0111\u1eb9p \u0111\u1ebd.<\/p>\n

Qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9, hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a Tbilisi v\u00e0 s\u1ee9c n\u1eb7ng c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 li\u00ean t\u1ee5c<\/h2>\n

Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng mong mu\u1ed1n tr\u1edf n\u00ean b\u1ea5t t\u1eed. N\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng che gi\u1ea5u nh\u1eefng \u0111\u1ee9t g\u00e3y c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh ho\u1eb7c gi\u1ea3 v\u1edd tr\u01b0\u1eddng t\u1ed3n. Thay v\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3, n\u00f3 mang l\u1ea1i m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i t\u00ednh li\u00ean t\u1ee5c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1ea1o ra t\u1eeb s\u1ef1 gi\u00e1n \u0111o\u1ea1n\u2014m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 ghi nh\u1edb kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i th\u00f4ng qua s\u1ef1 b\u1ea3o t\u1ed3n m\u00e0 th\u00f4ng qua kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng ph\u1ee5c h\u1ed3i. B\u1ea3n s\u1eafc c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng tr\u00ean t\u1ea7m nh\u00ecn \u0111\u01a1n l\u1ebb m\u00e0 tr\u00ean s\u1ef1 t\u00e1i di\u1ec5n, tr\u00ean s\u1ef1 t\u00e1i xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n ki\u00ean nh\u1eabn c\u1ee7a c\u1eed ch\u1ec9, v\u1eadt ch\u1ea5t v\u00e0 gi\u1ecdng n\u00f3i qua nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed9ng.<\/p>\n

Ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng n\u00e0y c\u00f3 l\u1ebd d\u1ec5 th\u1ea5y nh\u1ea5t trong m\u1ed1i quan h\u1ec7 c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 v\u1edbi k\u00fd \u1ee9c. Kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i k\u00fd \u1ee9c nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t t\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u00e0i, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac s\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ed9ng\u2014m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch quay tr\u1edf l\u1ea1i, t\u00e1i hi\u1ec7n, l\u00e0m l\u1ea1i. \u1ede Tbilisi, qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 kh\u00f4ng ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n thi\u00eang li\u00eang hay ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n b\u1ecb v\u01b0\u1ee3t qua. N\u00f3 li\u00ean t\u1ee5c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c g\u1eb7p l\u1ea1i d\u01b0\u1edbi d\u1ea1ng t\u00ean g\u1ecdi, th\u00f3i quen, t\u00e0n t\u00edch v\u00e0 ph\u1ee5c h\u1ed3i. T\u00f2a nh\u00e0 chung c\u01b0 Li\u00ean X\u00f4 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3i t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng r\u01b0\u1ee3u; nh\u00e0 th\u1edd th\u1eddi trung c\u1ed5 c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng b\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c v\u1ebd b\u1eady b\u1eb1ng ba ch\u1eef c\u00e1i; gi\u1ea3ng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u1ea1i h\u1ecdc \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eb7t theo t\u00ean m\u1ed9t nh\u00e0 th\u01a1 \u0111\u00e3 ch\u1ebft khi b\u1ecb th\u1ea9m v\u1ea5n. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 kh\u00f4ng bi\u1ebfn nh\u1eefng di s\u1ea3n n\u00e0y th\u00e0nh t\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u00e0i. N\u00f3 g\u1ed9p ch\u00fang v\u00e0o trong nh\u1eefng th\u1ee9 b\u00ecnh th\u01b0\u1eddng.<\/p>\n

Qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 kh\u00f4ng xa x\u00f4i. N\u00f3 h\u1eefu h\u00ecnh. \u0110i b\u1ed9 qua c\u00e1c khu ph\u1ed1 c\u1ed5 s\u1ebd th\u1ea5y n\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 l\u1edbp s\u01a1n ph\u1ee7 l\u00e3ng m\u1ea1n, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 b\u1ec1n b\u1ec9: l\u1edbp v\u1eefa tr\u00e1t n\u1ee9t v\u1eabn c\u00f2n d\u1ea5u \u1ea5n c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng n\u00e9t trang tr\u00ed, c\u1ea7u thang cong v\u00eanh v\u00ec nhi\u1ec1u th\u1eadp k\u1ef7 \u0111i l\u1ea1i, ban c\u00f4ng cong v\u00eanh d\u01b0\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 c\u00e2y c\u1ed1i, \u0111\u1ed3 gi\u1eb7t v\u00e0 con ng\u01b0\u1eddi. \u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 di t\u00edch th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9. Ch\u00fang l\u00e0 gi\u00e0n gi\u00e1o\u2014kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 gi\u1eef cho c\u00e1c t\u00f2a nh\u00e0 th\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ee9ng, m\u00e0 c\u00f2n gi\u1eef cho k\u00fd \u1ee9c \u1edf \u0111\u00fang v\u1ecb tr\u00ed.<\/p>\n

S\u1ef1 li\u00ean t\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a Tbilisi c\u0169ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n qua t\u00ean g\u1ecdi. T\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng thay \u0111\u1ed5i theo ch\u1ebf \u0111\u1ed9 ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb, nh\u01b0ng c\u00e1ch s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng th\u00f4ng t\u1ee5c th\u01b0\u1eddng ch\u1eadm h\u01a1n so v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00e2n v\u1eabn g\u1ecdi \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng b\u1eb1ng t\u00ean g\u1ecdi th\u1eddi Li\u00ean X\u00f4 ho\u1eb7c b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecba danh kh\u00f4ng c\u00f2n t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i n\u1eefa. \u201cPh\u1ed1 Pushkin\u201d c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n l\u00e0 \u201cPh\u1ed1 Besiki\u201d tr\u00ean b\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ed3, nh\u01b0ng t\u00ean c\u0169 v\u1eabn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u1eef nguy\u00ean trong l\u1eddi n\u00f3i. V\u0103n b\u1ea3n c\u1ed5 n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 bi\u1ec3u th\u1ecb n\u1ed7i nh\u1edb m\u00e0 c\u00f2n cho th\u1ea5y s\u1ef1 ho\u00e0i nghi s\u00e2u s\u1eafc \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi quy\u1ec1n l\u1ef1c \u00e1p \u0111\u1eb7t. Nh\u1eefng g\u00ec t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng g\u00ec \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng, kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i nh\u1eefng g\u00ec \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ra l\u1ec7nh.<\/p>\n

Ngay c\u1ea3 tr\u00ed nh\u1edb c\u1ee7a t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c c\u0169ng ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh s\u1ef1 c\u0103ng th\u1eb3ng n\u00e0y. C\u00e1c kho l\u01b0u tr\u1eef b\u1ecb thi\u1ebfu kinh ph\u00ed, nh\u01b0ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1ea3o v\u1ec7 quy\u1ebft li\u1ec7t. C\u00e1c d\u1ef1 \u00e1n l\u1ecbch s\u1eed truy\u1ec1n mi\u1ec7ng ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd, kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i th\u00f4ng qua s\u00e1ng ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200bc\u1ee7a ch\u00ednh ph\u1ee7 m\u00e0 th\u00f4ng qua c\u00e1c t\u1eadp th\u1ec3 c\u01a1 s\u1edf. C\u00e1c gia \u0111\u00ecnh duy tr\u00ec h\u1ed3 s\u01a1 c\u1ee7a ri\u00eang h\u1ecd\u2014\u1ea3nh ch\u1ee5p, th\u01b0 t\u1eeb, c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c truy\u1ec1n l\u1ea1i kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u1ec3 xu\u1ea5t b\u1ea3n m\u00e0 \u0111\u1ec3 b\u1ea3o v\u1ec7. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c l\u01b0u tr\u1eef ri\u00eang t\u01b0 b\u00f9 \u0111\u1eafp cho s\u1ef1 mong manh c\u1ee7a h\u1ed3 s\u01a1 c\u00f4ng khai.<\/p>\n

Gi\u00e1o d\u1ee5c \u0111\u00f3ng m\u1ed9t vai tr\u00f2 ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p trong \u0111\u1ed9ng l\u1ef1c n\u00e0y. C\u00e1c tr\u01b0\u1eddng h\u1ecdc d\u1ea1y l\u1ecbch s\u1eed qu\u1ed1c gia v\u1edbi l\u00f2ng t\u1ef1 h\u00e0o, nh\u01b0ng c\u0169ng c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng kho\u1ea3ng tr\u1ed1ng. Th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 X\u00f4 Vi\u1ebft \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ec1 c\u1eadp m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch th\u1eadn tr\u1ecdng. C\u00e1c cu\u1ed9c xung \u0111\u1ed9t sau \u0111\u1ed9c l\u1eadp th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00f3ng khung theo kh\u00eda c\u1ea1nh kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng ph\u1ee5c h\u1ed3i v\u00e0 n\u1ea1n nh\u00e2n h\u01a1n l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ed3ng l\u00f5a ho\u1eb7c ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p. Tuy nhi\u00ean, h\u1ecdc sinh \u1edf Tbilisi h\u1ecdc c\u00e1ch \u0111\u1ecdc gi\u1eefa c\u00e1c d\u00f2ng. H\u1ecd bi\u1ebft r\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c hi\u1ebfm khi bao h\u00e0m to\u00e0n b\u1ed9 s\u1ef1 th\u1eadt. H\u1ecd nghe th\u1ea5y s\u1ef1 im l\u1eb7ng. H\u1ecd h\u1ecfi \u00f4ng b\u00e0 c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh.<\/p>\n

K\u00fd \u1ee9c c\u0169ng s\u1ed1ng trong nghi l\u1ec5 c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng. C\u00e1c bu\u1ed5i t\u01b0\u1edfng ni\u1ec7m v\u1ee5 th\u1ea3m s\u00e1t ng\u00e0y 9 th\u00e1ng 4, cu\u1ed9c chi\u1ebfn n\u0103m 2008, hay c\u00e1i ch\u1ebft c\u1ee7a Zurab Zhvania\u2014Th\u1ee7 t\u01b0\u1edbng c\u1ea3i c\u00e1ch \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u00e1t hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u00e3 ch\u1ebft trong nh\u1eefng ho\u00e0n c\u1ea3nh \u0111\u00e1ng ng\u1edd\u2014\u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tham d\u1ef1 b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi h\u1ecd, nh\u1eefng s\u1ef1 ki\u1ec7n n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng tr\u1eebu t\u01b0\u1ee3ng, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 s\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ed9ng. Hoa \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eb7t. B\u00e0i ph\u00e1t bi\u1ec3u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u01b0a ra. Nh\u01b0ng quan tr\u1ecdng h\u01a1n, c\u00e1c cu\u1ed9c tr\u00f2 chuy\u1ec7n v\u1eabn ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c. Trong b\u1ebfp, qu\u00e1n c\u00e0 ph\u00ea, gi\u1ea3ng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng v\u00e0 g\u00f3c ph\u1ed1, th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 t\u1ef1 thu\u1eadt l\u1ea1i th\u00e0nh s\u1ef1 m\u1ea1ch l\u1ea1c.<\/p>\n

T\u00f4n gi\u00e1o c\u0169ng ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t vect\u01a1 k\u00fd \u1ee9c\u2014kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 th\u1ea7n h\u1ecdc, m\u00e0 c\u00f2n l\u00e0 v\u0103n h\u00f3a v\u00e0 th\u1eddi gian. Tham d\u1ef1 ph\u1ee5ng v\u1ee5 t\u1ea1i Nh\u00e0 th\u1edd Sioni ho\u1eb7c Sameba kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00fac n\u00e0o c\u0169ng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t h\u00e0nh \u0111\u1ed9ng c\u1ee7a ni\u1ec1m tin nghi\u00eam ng\u1eb7t. \u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi, \u0111\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t h\u00e0nh \u0111\u1ed9ng tham gia: m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch \u0111\u1ec3 s\u1ed1ng trong m\u1ed9t truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng c\u00f3 t\u1eeb tr\u01b0\u1edbc s\u1ef1 gi\u00e1n \u0111o\u1ea1n hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i. C\u1ea5u tr\u00fac nghi l\u1ec5\u2014c\u00e1c b\u00e0i th\u00e1nh ca, n\u1ebfn, h\u01b0\u01a1ng\u2014t\u00e1i kh\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ecbnh t\u00ednh li\u00ean t\u1ee5c m\u00e0 ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3. \u0110\u1ee9c tin \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y hi\u1ebfm khi mang t\u00ednh truy\u1ec1n gi\u00e1o. N\u00f3 mang t\u00ednh xung quanh, b\u1ea3o v\u1ec7 v\u00e0 g\u1eafn ch\u1eb7t v\u1edbi \u00fd t\u01b0\u1edfng v\u1ec1 qu\u1ed1c gia.<\/p>\n

Tuy nhi\u00ean, t\u00ednh li\u00ean t\u1ee5c n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 ma s\u00e1t. Hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i, nh\u01b0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u01b0\u1edfng t\u01b0\u1ee3ng th\u00f4ng qua ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n truy\u1ec1n th\u00f4ng ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y ho\u1eb7c c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 c\u1ea3i c\u00e1ch \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng, th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u1ebfn v\u1edbi ch\u1ee9ng hay qu\u00ean m\u00e0 Tbilisi ch\u1ed1ng l\u1ea1i. S\u1ef1 t\u00e1i ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n ki\u1ebfn \u200b\u200btr\u00fac \u0111e d\u1ecda x\u00f3a b\u1ecf l\u1ecbch s\u1eed chi ti\u1ebft \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u00fang trong c\u00e1c khu ph\u1ed1 c\u0169. V\u0103n h\u00f3a to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u h\u00f3a cung c\u1ea5p t\u00ednh th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 g\u1ed1c r\u1ec5. Di\u1ec5n v\u0103n ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb c\u00f3 xu h\u01b0\u1edbng h\u01b0\u1edbng \u0111\u1ebfn s\u1ef1 r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng nh\u1ecb ph\u00e2n: \u1ee7ng h\u1ed9 ch\u00e2u \u00c2u ho\u1eb7c ch\u1ed1ng ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y, d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a ho\u1eb7c t\u1ef1 do, truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng ho\u1eb7c ti\u1ebfn b\u1ed9. Nh\u01b0ng th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, trong cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh, t\u1eeb ch\u1ed1i nh\u1eefng nh\u1ecb ph\u00e2n nh\u01b0 v\u1eady. N\u00f3 ch\u1ee9a \u0111\u1ef1ng s\u1ef1 m\u00e2u thu\u1eabn m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng s\u1ee5p \u0111\u1ed5 th\u00e0nh s\u1ef1 kh\u00f4ng m\u1ea1ch l\u1ea1c.<\/p>\n

Kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng n\u00e0y\u2014\u0111\u1ec3 gi\u1eef m\u00e2u thu\u1eabn\u2014kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 ng\u1eabu nhi\u00ean. N\u00f3 l\u00e0 l\u1ecbch s\u1eed. Tbilisi \u0111\u00e3 b\u1ecb ph\u00e1 h\u1ee7y v\u00e0 x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng l\u1ea1i r\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u l\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ebfn n\u1ed7i s\u1ef1 t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng d\u1ef1a tr\u00ean s\u1ef1 ti\u1ebfp n\u1ed1i c\u1ee7a h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c, m\u00e0 d\u1ef1a tr\u00ean s\u1ef1 l\u1eb7p l\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a tinh th\u1ea7n. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 ch\u01b0a bao gi\u1edd nguy\u00ean s\u01a1. N\u00f3 lu\u00f4n lu\u00f4n l\u00e0 t\u1ea1m th\u1eddi. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 thi\u00ean t\u00e0i c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. Kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u1ec3 kh\u00f4i ph\u1ee5c l\u1ea1i qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 nh\u01b0 n\u00f3 \u0111\u00e3 t\u1eebng, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ec3 ti\u1ebfp thu nh\u1eefng b\u00e0i h\u1ecdc c\u1ee7a n\u00f3, v\u00e0 nh\u1ea5n m\u1ea1nh v\u00e0o s\u1ef1 li\u00ean quan.<\/p>\n

Kho\u1ea3nh kh\u1eafc hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i mang theo \u00e1p l\u1ef1c \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t. Khi Tbilisi \u0111\u1ea5u tranh v\u1edbi qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh \u0111\u00f4 th\u1ecb h\u00f3a, di c\u01b0 n\u01b0\u1edbc ngo\u00e0i, lo l\u1eafng v\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t d\u00e2n s\u1ed1 v\u00e0 b\u1ea5t \u1ed5n \u0111\u1ecba ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb, c\u00e2u h\u1ecfi v\u1ec1 lo\u1ea1i th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0o s\u1ebd tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng l\u1edbn h\u01a1n. Nh\u01b0ng c\u00e2u tr\u1ea3 l\u1eddi \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u00fang v\u00e0o c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. Trong th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t t\u00f2a th\u00e1p m\u1edbi m\u1ecdc l\u00ean b\u00ean c\u1ea1nh m\u1ed9t v\u01b0\u1eddn c\u00e2y \u0103n qu\u1ea3 c\u0169 v\u00e0 c\u1ea3 hai \u0111\u1ec1u thu\u1ed9c v\u1ec1 nhau theo m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch n\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3. Trong c\u00e1ch m\u1ed9t c\u00e2y c\u1ea7u th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 17 v\u1eabn ch\u1ecbu \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u01b0u l\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111i b\u1ed9 hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i. Trong vi\u1ec7c c\u01b0 d\u00e2n \u0111\u1ecba ph\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1eeb ch\u1ed1i r\u1eddi \u0111i ngay c\u1ea3 khi \u0111\u00e3 mua l\u1ea1i\u2014thay v\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3 ch\u1ecdn s\u1ed1ng gi\u1eefa \u0111\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ed5 n\u00e1t c\u1ee7a qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh t\u00e1i ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n b\u1ecb \u0111\u00ecnh tr\u1ec7.<\/p>\n

S\u1ef1 b\u1ec1n b\u1ec9 n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 anh h\u00f9ng. N\u00f3 th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 im l\u1eb7ng, th\u1ecfa hi\u1ec7p, b\u01b0\u1edbng b\u1ec9nh. M\u1ed9t nh\u1ea1c s\u0129 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ed1 ch\u01a1i b\u1ed1n b\u00e0i h\u00e1t gi\u1ed1ng nhau trong nhi\u1ec1u n\u0103m. M\u1ed9t hi\u1ec7u s\u00e1ch m\u1edf c\u1eeda m\u1ed7i s\u00e1ng m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 kh\u00e1ch h\u00e0ng r\u1ea5t hi\u1ebfm. M\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eb9 d\u1ea1y con g\u00e1i n\u1ea5u m\u00f3n h\u1ea7m \u0111\u1eadu gi\u1ed1ng h\u1ec7t nh\u01b0 b\u00e0 c\u1ee7a c\u00f4 \u1ea5y \u0111\u00e3 l\u00e0m. \u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng m\u00e0n tr\u00ecnh di\u1ec5n truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng. Ch\u00fang l\u00e0 c\u01a1 s\u1edf h\u1ea1 t\u1ea7ng c\u1ee7a truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng.<\/p>\n

Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 t\u1ef1 nh\u1edb v\u1ec1 m\u00ecnh kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i qua nh\u1eefng tuy\u00ean b\u1ed1 l\u1edbn lao, m\u00e0 qua s\u1ef1 l\u1eb7p l\u1ea1i. Qua s\u1ef1 tr\u1edf l\u1ea1i. Qua vi\u1ec7c ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c l\u00e0m nh\u1eefng g\u00ec n\u00f3 bi\u1ebft, ngay c\u1ea3 khi khung c\u1ea3nh thay \u0111\u1ed5i.<\/p>\n

V\u00e0 c\u00f3 l\u1ebd \u0111\u00e2y l\u00e0 b\u00e0i h\u1ecdc s\u00e2u s\u1eafc nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a Tbilisi: r\u1eb1ng t\u00ednh li\u00ean t\u1ee5c kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 gi\u1ed1ng nhau, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 ki\u00ean tr\u00ec. Kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 t\u1eeb ch\u1ed1i thay \u0111\u1ed5i, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 t\u1eeb ch\u1ed1i l\u00e3ng qu\u00ean. Kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 n\u1ed7i nh\u1edb, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 hi\u1ec7n di\u1ec7n.<\/p>\n

Tbilisi kh\u00f4ng di chuy\u1ec3n theo \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng th\u1eb3ng. N\u00f3 v\u00f2ng tr\u00f2n, n\u00f3 quay l\u1ea1i, n\u00f3 d\u1eebng l\u1ea1i v\u00e0 b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u l\u1ea1i. Nh\u01b0ng n\u00f3 di chuy\u1ec3n. Lu\u00f4n lu\u00f4n.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Tbilisi, th\u1ee7 \u0111\u00f4 v\u00e0 th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 l\u1edbn nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a Georgia, n\u1eb1m \u1edf v\u1ecb tr\u00ed chi\u1ebfn l\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ecdc theo S\u00f4ng Kura, v\u1edbi d\u00e2n s\u1ed1 h\u01a1n 1,2 tri\u1ec7u ng\u01b0\u1eddi, ho\u1eb7c kho\u1ea3ng m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n ba t\u1ed5ng d\u00e2n s\u1ed1 c\u1ee7a qu\u1ed1c gia. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u0103ng \u0111\u1ed9ng n\u00e0y ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng nh\u01b0 h\u1ea1t nh\u00e2n ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb, kinh t\u1ebf v\u00e0 v\u0103n h\u00f3a c\u1ee7a Georgia, \u0111\u1ea1i di\u1ec7n cho m\u1ed9t chu\u1ed7i l\u1ecbch s\u1eed k\u00e9o d\u00e0i h\u01a1n m\u01b0\u1eddi l\u0103m th\u1ebf k\u1ef7.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2826,"parent":13876,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"elementor_theme","meta":{"_eb_attr":"","footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-13889","page","type-page","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/13889","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=13889"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/13889\/revisions"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/13876"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2826"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/travelshelper.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=13889"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}