Located in the town of Demre (ancient Myra) on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, the Church of St. Nicholas is nothing less than the real-world origin of the legend of Santa Claus. Here lies the tomb of a 4th-century bishop whose life and generosity inspired centuries of devotion. Through the ages this modest basilica was renowned as a pilgrimage destination, then forgotten under layers of river silt, and only in modern times revived by archaeologists and devoted Russians. Today it stands as a museum that simultaneously evokes Byzantine splendor, the piety of early Christians, and a touch of Christmas magic. In these pages we journey (in the literal sense of visiting) through time and space to explore Saint Nicholas of Myra himself, the church’s rich history and architecture, the controversy of his missing relics, and everything a visitor needs to know. This is the most thorough guide ever assembled on St. Nicholas Church – its story, artistry, and living legacy – so you can truly appreciate why this humble Turkish ruin is cherished around the world.
Saint Nicholas of Myra was a real person – a 4th-century Christian bishop – whose life gave rise to some of the world’s most beloved legends. Tradition holds that Nicholas was born around AD 270 in the Lycian port city of Patara, in what is today southern Turkey. He came from a devout and wealthy family; as a young man Nicholas allegedly journeyed to Palestine and Egypt for religious training, and returned to Lycia a bishop in Myra (modern Demre). Persecuted during Emperor Diocletian’s reign for his faith, Nicholas was imprisoned and tortured, but ultimately freed when Constantine legalized Christianity. According to church history he may have attended the First Council of Nicaea in 325 AD – there is even a famous (though legendary) story that Nicholas angrily struck the heretic Arius during the debates over Christ’s divinity. Whatever the precise truth, Nicholas became known as a tireless defender of the early Church.
What truly made Nicholas famous, however, were his acts of kindness and miracle-working. Stories circulated that he secretly used his inheritance to help the poor and downtrodden. The most famous tale tells of a virtuous merchant with three impoverished daughters facing destitution and slavery. In the middle of the night Nicholas is said to have secretly tossed three purses of gold coins through their window, providing enough dowry for each girl to marry honorably. This act of anonymous gift-giving – and others like it – earned him a reputation for incredible generosity. He was also credited with miracles: rescuing three boys from drowning, saving Myra from famine through prayer, and calming storms at sea for shipwrecked sailors. Over time Nicholas became regarded as a patron saint of sailors, merchants, children, and many others. In art and popular devotion he is often depicted with children or providing dowries, a nod to those enduring legends.
Nicholas died on December 6, 343 AD, in Myra. By tradition, he was buried in his own church there, and reports soon arose that a sweet-smelling “manna” or oil would ooze from his tomb – considered a holy substance with miraculous healing properties. As his fame grew, his feast day (December 6) became widely celebrated. Centuries later, when Dutch settlers brought the tradition of Saint Nicholas to North America, the name “Sinterklaas” eventually morphed into “Santa Claus,” giving birth to our modern Christmas figure. But in Demre one can still touch the very spot where this real bishop lived, preached and was laid to rest – far removed from the snowy folklore of the North Pole.
The church in Demre has a turbulent past, mirroring the rise and fall of empires. It stands atop layers of history in the ancient Lycian city of Myra, which thrived in classical and Roman times and was the metropolis of Lycia by the 2nd century AD. During the Byzantine period, Myra was a regional hub of administration and religion, chiefly known for its great bishop, Nicholas of Myra. The church’s story can be told in phases:
Walking into St. Nicholas Church today feels like stepping back into a 6th-century cathedral. Despite centuries underground, enough survives to appreciate the thoughtful design and artistry.
The interior of St. Nicholas Church in Demre, viewed from the southwest. The building is a broad three-aisled basilica: a wide central nave flanked by two narrower aisles, and a rounded apse (curved wall) on the east end. Columns (added in restoration) and arches delineate the space, while the rear wall once held a domed sanctuary. This form – built atop Nicholas’s tomb in AD 520 – was typical of Justinian-era churches.
The basic layout is a three-aisled basilica, a common plan in the late Roman/Byzantine world. Pilgrims entered from the west into a high rectangular hall about 20 meters wide. Three parallel aisles ran eastward, separated by rows of columns. These columns (now marble Corinthian remnants) originally supported a wooden or coffered roof. At the far eastern end, the church terminated in a semi-circular apse – the site of the altar. In front of the apse was likely a dome or semi-dome. (Dome fragments and apse mosaics suggest there was a cupola illuminating the altar.) To the north side stood an annex or chapel – archaeologists have found remains of two eastern chapels adjoining the main space, one of which contained exquisite frescoes of Nicholas’s life. The stone walls were massive local limestone, with marble veneers on pillars and archways. For balance, Justinian’s architects largely reused materials from earlier Greek and Roman buildings: for example, the tomb sarcophagus itself is ancient Greek marble repurposed.
More striking than the structural form is the floor of the church. The entire nave is paved with an opus sectile mosaic – a type of inlaid marble design (rather than small tesserae). Polished slabs of different colored marble were cut into geometric patterns – interlocking circles, stars and floral motifs in shades of white, red, green and black. The effect is like an ornate tile carpet covering the floor. About half of this mosaic survives under glass panels; the rest was reburied during excavation to preserve it. Opus sectile flooring was a high art technique popular in the late Empire, and this example is remarkably well-preserved. (No figurative pictures are in the floor – it is purely decorative geometry, meant as a worthy “flooring for a saint.”)
A preserved portion of the church’s opus sectile marble floor, visible in the nave. The mosaic uses large cut pieces of colored marble in circular and petal motifs. Such elegant Byzantine pavements are rare; this one dates to the early 6th century.
The walls and apses of the church were once covered with fresco paintings. Though faded by time and excavations, fragments remain on the northern annex and the apse vault. The most significant group – unique in Turkey – depicts scenes from the Life of Saint Nicholas. You can still make out the saint giving alms, healing the sick, and saving children. These would have served both as decoration and a didactic “icon storybook” for pilgrims to recall his miracles. More common biblical scenes adorned other walls: the Nativity, the Baptism, and Christ’s miracles. The color palette (red ochre, deep blue, gold) is typical of Middle Byzantine art. Unfortunately, time and moisture have obliterated much of the paint. Only faint outlines survive behind protective screens, but they give a haunting sense of the once-vivid church interior.
Apart from the frescoes and mosaics, the basilica’s decoration included many sculptural elements. Six Roman-era sarcophagi have been found in the church. These were reused as tombs for later bishops of Myra. The most notable is the original carved sarcophagus of Nicholas himself. It is a large late-Roman box of Parian marble, carved with Christian symbols (crosses and cherubs). Today it stands in the northeast corner, shattered and lidless. In Justinian’s time it was intact and set in a silver-reliquary so pilgrims could venerate Nicholas’s tomb. (When the Bari sailors stole the bones in 1087, they smashed the lid and filled the coffin with sand to fool any onlookers.) Alongside Nicholas’s tomb in the north, archaeologists found smaller sarcophagi of later metropolitans – simpler Roman designs cut from local marble. This clustering suggests the east end of the basilica was also the episcopal burial ground, as was typical for a cathedral basilica.
In sum, St. Nicholas Church was built to awe: grand in size and rich with art. Even in its partially-ruined state today, one can sense the sacred geometry and story-telling imagery that filled it when Eastern emperors still ruled these lands.
Perhaps the greatest intrigue about St. Nicholas Church is the question: Is the real Saint Nicholas still here? The answer involves medieval relic thefts and recent archaeology. The situation has three main threads:
For now, visitors should understand: the stone sarcophagus in the church is the historical tomb, but it is empty. The actual bones were mostly removed long ago. Whether any trace of Nicholas still lies beneath the church floor is an open question. Archeologists pursue it with excitement, but in absence of proof the Demre sarcophagus remains the “official” tomb on site.
Location & Access: St. Nicholas Church sits in Demre (formerly Kale), a small town on Turkey’s Antalya coast. It is about 150 km southwest of Antalya city. By car the drive from Antalya takes roughly 2–3 hours via the coastal highway and then inland. From the west, Demre is 46 km east of Kaş and 70 km west of Kalkan, so it’s a short drive from those resort towns (about 45 minutes from Kaş). From Fethiye it is farther – ~140 km (roughly 2¼ hours) along the coastal road.
Opening Hours & Tickets (2025): The site is officially a museum. The St. Nicholas Church (often called the “Santa Claus Museum”) is open daily year-round. Hours vary by season:
Entrance is 750 Turkish Lira (TL) in 2025 (roughly €15 or $16 at mid-2025 rates). Children under a certain age may enter free; students and seniors often get a discount. Note: the museum is included on the MuseumPass Türkiye (a national museum pass), so holders of that card get free admission. Keep in mind that hours may change on public holidays; always check locally. There is a small ticket booth at the site entrance (closed lunch hour midday).
Inside the Church: Upon entering, you walk down steps into the basilica’s level nave. Paths guide you around the building. The site is partly under open sky; the main structure has a permanent roof now. An audio guide is sometimes available (for a small fee) in English and Turkish, which can help explain the murals and layout. The highlights:
Photography is allowed in most areas – but no flash, as the frescoes are delicate. Drones or tripods are not permitted. Guided groups usually allow a 1–2 hour visit; solo travelers might spend 2–3 hours. Benches and some shade can be found in the side courtyards. There is a small gift shop for postcards and icons.
Accessibility: The ground is partly uneven stone and gravel. The main church floor is accessible by ramps on each side of the entrance steps. The church authorities have made an effort to allow wheelchair entry (the site brochure mentions lifts and ramps). However, some of the annex areas might be tight. If mobility is an issue, note that the sarcophagus is visible from ground level and many paintings can be admired without much climbing.
Best Time to Visit: Spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October) are ideal to avoid searing heat. Midday in summer can be very hot (the church interior has little shade), so visiting early morning or late afternoon is wiser. The late afternoon light also brings out warm colors on the stones. Weekdays are quieter; weekends (especially Turkish holidays) see more family visitors. The site closes relatively early, so plan accordingly.
Rules & Etiquette: St. Nicholas Church, while a museum, remains a shrine. Visitors are expected to dress respectfully: shoulders and knees covered (no beachwear). This means avoiding shorts or sleeveless shirts. The atmosphere is subdued – people may kneel to pray before icons. Keep voices low. You may light candles in the nave near the rear entrance (small votives are sold on site). There is no separate “tomb chamber” to enter – the sarcophagus is behind a grille. Do not attempt to descend into any holes or crypts; much of the interior space is fragile. Guided tours often stress that the church is part of the Turkish national heritage, so treat the ruins gently.
In short, come prepared as you would to an ancient religious site: modest dress, sensible shoes (for walking on stone and dirt), and a respectful mindset. Visitors often say the quiet reverence – seeing travelers of different faiths light candles and pray – adds to the power of the experience.
The Church of St. Nicholas is the crown jewel of Demre, but the town and its environs offer much more to see for those with time.
Together, these sights transform Demre into a full cultural itinerary. Myra was one of the six Lycian League capitals, and it shows: tombs, theaters, a museum – all on a par with better-known Turkish antiquities. By seeing beyond St. Nicholas Church, travelers gain a richer sense of the ancient world that gave birth to the legend of Santa Claus.
In the 21st century, St. Nicholas Church wears many hats. It is at once a pilgrimage shrine, an archaeological site, and a tourist attraction – sometimes leading to conflicts of interest.
In the end, this dual identity – holy shrine and Santa spectacle – may be fitting. It draws both pious pilgrims and casual travelers. Visitors often report a unique atmosphere in Demre: one moment witnessing churchmen leading prayer, the next browsing Christmas ornaments in the town bazaar. Through it all, the presence of St. Nicholas’s legacy remains the constant. Whether one comes for faith or for fun, the church offers a tangible connection to the man who inspired centuries of gift-giving tradition.
Is St. Nicholas Church really where Santa is buried? No. The stone sarcophagus in the church is the historical tomb of Saint Nicholas, but it was emptied long ago. Nicholas’s bones were removed from Myra in 1087 by Italian sailors and taken to Bari, Italy. What remains in Demre is an empty tomb (with sand added by looters). Thus the church is the original burial site, but not the final resting place of his relics.
Can visitors go inside Nicholas’s tomb/chamber? No. The burial chamber is sealed under the church floor. Visitors can see the carved sarcophagus (tomb) behind a grate, but cannot descend below. In recent years archaeologists have explored the ground beneath the floor using radar, but it is not open to the public. All that one can “go inside” is the basilica itself – the sarcophagus is viewed only from above.
How much does it cost to enter St. Nicholas Church? As of 2025, the entrance fee is 750 Turkish Lira (approx. €15). This admission covers the entire Myra Archaeological Site, including the rock tombs and theatre. MuseumPass Türkiye holders enter free. (Students, teachers, and seniors may receive discounts with valid ID.) Check the ticket office for any family or group rates.
Is Demre worth visiting? Absolutely. Demre offers a rare mix of spiritual heritage and ancient ruins. The church itself is unique and evocative, and the nearby Lycian rock tombs and Roman theatre rank among Turkey’s finest. Many visitors use Demre as a base to explore the Kekova and Finike regions. Even if you aren’t religious, the setting – a quiet Anatolian town wrapped around sunken history – makes it a memorable stop.
What is the difference between St. Nicholas of Myra and Santa Claus? Saint Nicholas of Myra was a real 4th-century bishop known for generosity and caring for children and the poor. “Santa Claus” is a much later folkloric character whose origins partly trace back to St. Nicholas, blended with other traditions. The saint’s feast day (December 6) and legends of his secret gift-giving influenced the modern Santa story, but Nicholas himself had no red suit or North Pole – he was a revered Christian bishop in Anatolia.
Are the bones of St. Nicholas real? The bones in Bari are widely believed to be authentic relics of Nicholas – scientific tests support that they are from a single man of the right era. That is why so many pilgrims venerate them as genuine. The empty tomb in Demre contains no verified bones of the saint. As of today, the only “bones of Nicholas” remaining in Turkey would be tiny fragments (if any) that were overlooked by the Bari thieves. (Some theories suggest the Bari men took bones from the wrong coffin, but these are unproven.) In short, most of Nicholas’s remains are in Italy now.
What else is there to see in Demre besides the church? In town you will find the ancient Lycian rock tombs – cliffside graves carved like houses, just outside Myra’s old city walls. Also visit the Roman theater, still largely intact, a short walk away. The ruins of Myra extend around Demre: baths, baths and church remains. A few kilometers out of town is the Lycian Civilizations Museum at Andriake, where you can see artifacts from all over Lycia. And on the coast near Üçağız village, the sunken city of Kekova is accessible by boat. Finally, modern Demre has a quiet charm – local markets, olive groves and Mediterranean beaches nearby.
In this quiet corner of Turkey stands a monument to a singular legacy. The church built for Saint Nicholas in Myra is more than just the “Santa Claus church” – it is a palimpsest of history. It recalls a humble 4th-century bishop known for charity and zeal, a medieval world of relic-hunters and empires in conflict, and a modern global fascination. The ivy-covered walls and cracked mosaics of St. Nicholas Church speak across the centuries to millions who come seeking meaning: Christians on pilgrimage, historians chasing truth, and families curious about Santa’s origins alike. Whether one visits in reverence or in wonder, the site radiates a profound sense of connection. A man who once walked these floors as bishop has become a worldwide legend; yet here his ancient church endures, bridging East and West, myth and history. This guide has striven to unravel every stone of its story, from Nicholas’s life in Lycia to the very mosaic he might have trodden. In doing so, it hopes to light a small flame of understanding – much like the lamps that burn before his empty tomb – that will make any visit to Demre’s Church of St. Nicholas truly unforgettable.