Side, perched on a glistening peninsula of Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, is an extraordinary fusion of sun-drenched beaches and millennia-old history. Once the leading port of ancient Pamphylia, this city commanded a natural harbour so fine that even Alexander the Great claimed it in 333 BC. Today its ruins – walls, temples and a colossal amphitheatre – rise from golden sand against turquoise seas. Classical Side stands out among Anatolian antiquities not only for its impressive monuments but for its unique coastal setting: the twin Temples of Apollo and Athena flank the ancient harbor so closely that their marble columns silhouette against the sunset in an arrangement rarely seen elsewhere. In short, Side is a must-visit for history enthusiasts and beachgoers alike, a place where a 7th-century BC Greek colony blossomed into a vibrant Roman metropolis and left a remarkably well-preserved legacy for modern visitors.
Visitors today find a site that is both evocative and convenient. Selimiye, a modern village founded by Cretan settlers in the 1890s, fringes the ruins; its cafés and guesthouses are built atop ancient streets and walls. Entrance to the open-air archaeological site is free, making it easy for independent travelers to wander amid the columns and fountains at will. (The neighbouring Side Museum and the ancient theater have separate tickets.) Amenities abound in the shadow of antiquity: restaurants, hotels and shops line the edge of the peninsula, catering to the steady flow of tourists. Yet the experience remains quietly reverent. At dawn, Side’s wide coasts are tranquil, the church bells of Selimiye mingling with the drip of morning tourism. At dusk, the harbor glows golden behind crumbling columns. It is this blend of splendor and serenity – Mediterranean landscape paired with storied ruins – that makes Side unique among Turkey’s ancient cities.
Long before Side became a tourist destination, it was known as the lively capital of Pamphylia, a region famed in antiquity. The city’s name itself comes from the ancient Sidetic word for pomegranate, reflecting the lush fertility of the land and carrying deep mythological meaning. (Local lore even personifies Side as the “pomegranate-smelling daughter” of the Taurus Mountains.) Side’s earliest residents were Greek colonists, sailing from Cyme in Aeolis and settling the peninsula in the 7th century BC. Even in that age, Side’s geography made it extraordinary: it had a deep natural harbor suitable for large ships, plus two artificial basins for smaller craft. Britannica notes that “having a good natural harbour and two artificial harbours for larger vessels, it was the most important port in Pamphylia”. This prime harbor position made Side a commercial powerhouse of the ancient world.
What emerges is the story of a city that grew with the shifting tides of Mediterranean power. In Hellenistic times, Side became wealthy and cosmopolitan. Alexander the Great occupied the city without resistance in 333 BC, bringing Greek culture and coinage. Side minted its own coins adorned with the head of its patron goddess Athena, indicating both civic pride and economic might. The city even spoke a local language – the Sidetic tongue (a Luwian dialect) – long after Greek colonization. Legends recount the settlers revering Athena as their chief deity and Apollo as their protector. As one authority notes, even on Side’s coins “the tutelary deity was Athena” whose visage “adorned its coinage”. Apollo was everywhere too – by the empire of Rome Side’s people saw him as their namesake god, and he stands today in stately ruins over the old port.
Side’s moment of greatest opulence came under Rome. In the 1st century BC the Republic pacified the region, defeating Cilician pirates and bringing Side under Roman rule. Emperor Augustus later restructured the provinces, and Side found itself at the heart of a Roman Pamphylia, thriving as a hub of trade. Its olive oil, wine, and other goods filled Mediterranean markets, and its ships and merchants did brisk business. The population swelled to an estimated 60,000 people under Roman patronage – making it one of the largest cities in Asia Minor. Wealthy citizens built grand public works from their tributes: the city’s impressive theater and temples date from this era. In fact, most of Side’s extant ruins – from streets to baths to colonnaded agoras – come from the 1st through 3rd centuries AD. The Coliseum-like theater, seating up to 20,000, once echoed with gladiator games as well as classical drama. The agora bustled with merchants and even a slave market once operated beneath the shade of the Tyche and Fortuna temple (now a ruined round pavilion).
By late antiquity, Side had also become an early Christian center. It served as the bishop’s seat for the region of Pamphylia, and grand 5th–6th-century basilicas adorned the town. But over the next centuries the tide turned. Barbarian incursions and natural disasters took their toll. Arab fleets raided the city in the 7th century, and after prolonged decline it was largely abandoned by the 10th century AD. Earthquakes and the shifting course of the Manavgat River left much of the old harbor silted up. The peal of church bells gave way to the caw of crows on crumbling walls. In the Middle Ages the name Side was almost forgotten; locals called the quiet ruin “Eski Adalia” – Old Antalya – and only a few goats grazed amid its columns.
The end came in the 12th century, when the last inhabitants fled to nearby Attalia (modern Antalya) and settlers left their mark on the land. For centuries, only stones and stories remained. That silence persisted until the 19th century, when Cretan immigrants founded a village – Selimiye – amid the ruins. Under the guidance of early 20th-century archaeologists like Arif Müfid Mansel, systematic excavations began in 1947, peeling back earth to reveal the greatness buried beneath. Today, centuries of scholarship and restoration mean visitors can walk those same stones trod by traders and emperors. Every column and carving tells a story. Side’s history is its greatest asset, and its allure lies in how thoroughly it survives the ages to welcome modern travelers.
Ancient Side was shrouded as much in myth as in trade winds. Greek sources claim the city was founded by colonists from Cyme in Aeolis. In truth, the site itself predates those Greeks. Archaeologists unearthed a basalt column base from the 7th century BC belonging to the Neo-Hittites, a reminder that this spot was significant long before Alexander’s era. Local legend weaves a more poetic tale. According to the Milesian geographer Hekataios, Side was born of nature itself – the “daughter of Taurus,” a divine maiden turned into a mountain spring. In one variant, the goddess Side (a personification of the pomegranate, the city’s namesake fruit) walked with nymphs by the Manavgat River and cradled a branch of a sacred tree. That tree turned into a goddess to protect its flowers, and the story goes that Side took root in the earth, becoming the fertile land on which the city grew. Such myths underline how ancient peoples viewed Side as enchanted: a green oasis (“Sidetic” literally means “pomegranate”) where East and West met.
In historical terms, Side’s recorded life began in the classical Greek era. By the 6th and 5th centuries BC, it was already minting coins, a sign of autonomy and wealth. Its strategic location at the mouth of the Manavgat made it a vital port. Travelers of antiquity noted its good harbor for small ships and the wealth flowing through it. In the late 4th century BC, Alexander the Great’s campaign swept through Pamphylia; he occupied Side in 333 BC without resistance, leaving behind a handful of soldiers and mixing Macedonian influence with local customs. Under Alexander’s successors, Side fell briefly under Ptolemaic and then Seleucid control, but it proved remarkably resilient. Even when Antiochus III was defeated by Rome in 190 BC, the city managed to buy its freedom and preserve a degree of independence.
In this age of shifting allegiances, Side prospered through trade. It minted silver tetradrachms in the 2nd century BC, often bearing the image of Nike (Victory) and a laurel wreath. Its patron deities were stamped on coins: Athena’s head on one side, Apollo on the other. The city’s own cults were eclectic – inscriptions reveal a pantheon that included Dionysus, Tyche and even a local nature spirit invoked by farmers. But Athena and Apollo dominated. Athena was hailed as the guarantor of wisdom and craftsmanship, while Apollo, god of light and prophecy, was linked to Side’s very identity. On its coinage and temple facades, Apollo’s image multiplied: the sea breeze at the harbor was said to carry hymns to his honor.
The Greeks also brought urban institutions to Side. An agora (marketplace) was laid out, surrounded by stoas and public buildings. The local population adopted Hellenistic customs – theater performances, gymnasium training – even as they retained some indigenous traditions. Curiously, inscriptions show the Sidetic language (a Luwian offshoot) was still in use through at least the 3rd century BC, suggesting a fusion of cultures. By the end of Hellenistic rule, Side was a bustling maritime polis, connected by merchant ships to Rhodes, Pergamon and beyond. The defeat of the Seleucids at the naval Battle of Side in 190 BC (with the help of Rhodes and Rome) freed the city from Eastern rule, setting the stage for an era under Roman aegis.
Rome’s arrival heralded the zenith of Side’s glory. In 78 BC the Roman consul Quintus Sertorius Vatia quelled piracy in the region, and soon Pompey the Great extended Roman protection all along the Turkish coast. By 25 BC, Emperor Augustus formally organized Pamphylia into a province; Side was assigned to the province of Galatia and given special status. Roman law and infrastructure followed. Side built impressive roads, aqueducts and public works to reflect its new prosperity.
Side’s population exploded – ancient records and archaeology estimate up to 60,000 people in the city at its height. Its trade in grain, olive oil and textiles filled the Empire’s markets. The harbor teemed with grain barges returning to supply Rome’s food supply. To honor benefactors and emperors, the citizens erected monuments. A monumental fountain (nymphaeum) with nine semi-circular basins graced the city’s center. A triumphal arch known as the Vespasian Gate commemorated the Flavian emperors, and a large statue of Atatürk once stood (in modern times) near the city’s main entrance, linking the ancient legacy to the Turkish Republic.
Most of today’s ruins date to this Roman age. The largest theater at Side – second only to Aspendos in the region – was built in the 2nd century AD. It originally accommodated up to 20,000 spectators, an immense stone bowl of tiered seats carved into the hillside. In Roman times it hosted gladiatorial contests, wrestling matches and theatrical spectacles, a living heart of public life. Alongside the theater, a vast colonnaded street stretched toward the harbor, lined with porticoes and stately homes (mosaics from which have been found intact). Roman baths, reception halls and an elaborate public latrine – complete with bench seats in a semicircle – reflected advanced urban comforts. Temples to Apollo and Athena were lavishly rebuilt with marble columns. Side was so renowned in this era that visitors described it as a “little Rome by the sea.”
Culturally, Roman Side was eclectic and affluent. Pagans and Jews lived alongside emerging Christian communities. Philosophers and physicians taught in its schools; Sidonians could boast connections to the great jurists and theologians of the Empire. Indeed, the jurist Tribonian (a key advisor to Emperor Justinian and compiler of Roman law) was born here, and the philosopher Troilus of Side once held court in its agora.
As the Western Roman Empire waned, Side found a new chapter under Byzantium (Eastern Roman Empire). Christianity spread early to Side: by the 4th century it was the metropolitan see of the province, and bishops from Side attended ecumenical councils. The city adapted its pagan temples to church use – for example, the vast theater was converted into a fortress sanctuary with attached chapels. New churches were built in the 5th and 6th centuries, some of which leave tantalizing fragments today.
For a time Side revived. The 5th and 6th centuries saw public works continued and a re-fortification of the city’s walls. Side weathered the Gothic War unscathed and even regained some stature as a provincial capital. But this serenity was temporary. In the 7th century, Arab fleets launched raids along the Mediterranean, and Side was sacked several times. The once-prosperous city walls could not keep out all attackers. Following these destructions, a series of earthquakes further damaged structures. By the 10th century the population was depleted and many survivors had migrated to nearby Attalia (Antalya) where trade routes had shifted. With the slow closure of its harbors (the river delta silted up), Side’s economic raison d’être faded.
For the next few centuries Side lay in quiet ruin. The Seljuks and Ottomans conquered the region in the 11th and 12th centuries but left Side largely abandoned – it was a “city without people,” its stones reclaimed by nature. Travelers of the late Middle Ages mentioned only crumbled walls and ruins. Local memory reduced it to a footnote, “Eski Antalya,” the old city where old stones dotted the coastline.
Yet even in its silence, Side attracted a few pilgrims of history. The 14th-century traveler Ibn Battuta briefly noted its antiquities. Ottoman records in the 17th century began to use the name “Selimiye” for the site, after an earlier village was said to have stood where the ruins lay (some speculate a temple to Selene once stood on the Acropolis). But real rediscovery only came with modern archaeology.
Over the Seljuk and Ottoman centuries Side had no native inhabitants; the nearest town was Manavgat, and Side became known only to a few shepherds and fishermen who used the old harbor. Because Side had been essentially deserted, little medieval architecture was ever built on top of the ruins – a blessing for archaeologists, though a curse for the city’s continuity of life. In fact, any Ottoman-period structures were later torn down in excavations; most of what we see today is ancient Greek and Roman.
Even in the 19th century Side was scarcely populated. In 1895 some Turkish-speaking immigrants from Crete settled at the ruins’ edge. They founded the village of Selimiye (taking their name from Sultan Selim) and built rustic homes using stone from the ancient walls. For a time Side’s ancient monuments served as convenient building material: locals patched farms and houses with marble blocks.
It took an archaeologist’s vision to change this. In 1947 Turkish scholar Arif Müfid Mansel led the first systematic excavations, funded by the Turkish Historical Society. His team cleared rubble from the agora, theater and bathhouses, revealing Side’s grandeur. Later excavations, especially from the 1980s onward, uncovered city streets, a Byzantine church, a synagogue and even a brothel (complete with erotic frescoes). Preservation projects stabilized walls, reconstructed fountains and restored the harbor basin. Archaeological theaters, once filled with sand and weeds, became safe for visitors again.
Today, Side is protected as an archaeological park. Turkish authorities, often in partnership with international teams, continue to dig and restore. Notable recent projects include the meticulous anastylosis of the Temple of Athena (completed in 2023) and plans for reassembling the Temple of Apollo. The Ministry of Culture’s “Future Heritage Project” has poured resources into Side, recognizing its global importance. In March 2025 Turkish news reported that Side’s museum was refurbished and reopened with 3,309 artifacts on display, illustrating the depth of side’s culture.
Side has thus been reborn as a bridge between past and present. As one archaeologist put it, the site has “been reborn with the restoration” of its sacred monuments. It offers us tangible links to ancient civilizations — columns that were once submerged, fountains that once spewed water, coins buried in fields — all accessible in one compact area. For this reason, academics and casual tourists alike now flock to Side. It stands today not as a silent ruin but as an active canvas of history, its stones speaking afresh under the Turkish sun.
Side’s ancient city is laid out across a peninsula, surrounded on three sides by the sea. As you enter the site, you literally pass through history.
The best-preserved threshold to Side is the Hellenistic land gate, often called Megale Pyle. This towered gate opened through mighty city walls of which large segments survive. Constructed in the 2nd century BC, the gate once boasted two massive towers flanking a broad arch. Today one tower stands substantially intact, while the other is partly ruinous, but the passage between them still feels monumental. This was the main landward entrance to the walled city, where travelers and traders once filed in under guard. Inscriptions nearby honor the emperors who rebuilt or restored the gate – both Marcus Aurelius and Hadrian left their names here.
Standing at the gate, one can imagine ancient defenses: a deep ditch once ran before the walls, now dry, and portcullis grooves carved in stone marked where heavy iron gates fell. Through this gate flowed goods into the agora and people into the heart of Side for centuries. Thanks to the extensive excavation and restoration efforts since the mid-20th century, the scale of this entrance is apparent: it is more than 8 meters tall and nearly 15 meters wide at the opening. It provides an epic first sight, framing the city’s ruins against the sky.
After the gate, one soon reaches the twin agora complexes, the economic and administrative cores of Side. There were effectively two plazas: the Round Agora (also called the State Agora) and the Square Agora (the commercial market).
The Round Agora is easily identified by the remains of a circular temple on its north side. This temple, dating to the 2nd century BC, once held twin cult statues of Tyche (Fortuna) and Fortuna, Goddesses of Luck and the City’s Prosperity. You can still see the temple’s ring of 12 marble column bases around the central podium. In Roman times this agora became a trading hall where slaves and goods were sold; evidence suggests a raised walkway around the circle where bidders stood. The open center might have once held a fountain or statue. Today, fragments of carved reliefs and pediments lie in the grass, the only art in sight.
Beyond the Round Agora lies the Square Agora, which was the main marketplace. Rows of column stumps line this open field, marking the colonnades that once sheltered shops and offices. Archeological excavation has revealed foundations of offices where tax records were kept. Here, merchants from all over Pamphylia haggled over olive oil, wine and grain. The western end of this market is dominated by a remarkable structure: a long row of stone seating with multiple circular cutouts – the Roman public latrine. This communal restroom accommodated dozens at once, a striking example of Roman sanitation. Its sturdy stone benches remain, each with a carved outhole, and the drainage channels are still partially visible. It speaks to the advanced urban planning of the Romans.
Away from the latrine, archaeologists discovered the remnants of a library building in the agora complex. Though walls have mostly vanished, floor mosaics remain, hinting at where scrolls and studies were once kept. Scholars imagine it filled with scrolls of philosophy and law, used by Side’s educated elite. (All during sacking in 7th century, whatever was left may have been burnt or buried.)
Visitors often find this agora zone evocative: it is open, grassy and shaded by pines, with the distant clink of coins from local souvenir shops. One can read the inscriptions of Roman magistrates commemorating the building of council halls. It is here, more than anywhere else, that one feels the pulse of civic daily life.
Dominating the city’s north is the Ancient Theater of Side, an architectural marvel. Not quite as intact as some, but still astonishing in scale, this theatre seated an estimated 15,000–20,000 spectators in its heyday. Built in the 2nd century AD on two levels of terraces, it was carved into the hillside for acoustics. When filled, the throng of citizens would feel surrounded by sound. In its Roman incarnation, it hosted gladiatorial combats alongside dramas; after the city’s Christianization it was even converted into a fortified open-air sanctuary in late antiquity.
Today the theater is a cavernous ruin. The cavea (semicircular seating) still persists as stepped terraces of stone; one can climb up to the mid-section and gaze over the ruins below toward the Aegean. The orchestra pit and some of the stage columns have partially collapsed, but enough remains to reconstruct its grandeur in the mind’s eye. Along the outer wall, you will notice relief carvings of lions and griffins – symbols of power that originally adorned the stage framework. Plaques on-site explain how the theatre was later used as a barracks and refuge, and how the spectacular relief of a charioteer (from a long-buried vault) was uncovered in the 20th century.
Acoustics are still surprisingly good. A modern singer standing at the central stage can be heard clearly even in the upper rows. Legend even claims that Saint Paul preached here, though that is apocryphal. Whether for entertainment or for proclamation, the theater remains one of Side’s most iconic ruins.
At the tip of Side’s peninsula lies an unforgettable sight: two ruined temples by the sea. One is Apollo’s Temple, facing west, known for its beautiful sunset views over the Mediterranean. The other, Athena’s Temple, stands immediately to its east. These twin shrines were the focal points of Side’s religious life. Apollo, god of the sun and prophecy, was the city’s chief god (his name even inspires “Side” in Greek legend), while Athena, goddess of wisdom and trade, was the patron goddess.
Today, Apollo’s temple is a row of six solitary Corinthian columns right on the water’s edge – the most-photographed view of Side. It once had eight, all 15 meters tall. Behind them the cella (inner chamber) stood. To the east, behind a low wall, lie the Athena columns. Until recently they were often overlooked, but restoration has now roused interest. One can see the footprints of both temples’ floors and even parts of the inner walls. The Athena temple was rebuilt with partial anastylosis (original column pieces put back together) in 2023.
The setting is spectacular. Looking out to sea from the podium, one recalls how Side’s sailors might have prayed here for safe passage. According to Prof. Alanyalı of Anadolu University, the positioning of these two temples – side by side right at the harbor – is unique. He emphasizes that Athena functioned as “the guarantor goddess of trade in the harbor”. Indeed, ancient coins from Side depict both deities; one often shows Athena’s head, another a ship’s prow under Apollo’s name. For generations, these temples drew worshippers who believed that Apollo and Athena protected the city’s prosperity.
From the visitor’s perspective, the Apollon-Athena site offers more than archaeological wonder. The location grants breathtaking panoramas: the sun sets between the columns of Apollo’s Temple, turning stone to bronze. This is why tourists flock here at evening. Archaeologists caution respect – it is a sacred site – but also joy in remembering that the ancients chose this exact spot for worship of their highest gods.
Side’s engineers mastered water as well as worship. On the western side of the agora stands the Nymphaeum, a large water fountain complex built around the 2nd century AD. It was a showpiece: a stage-like façade of nine arched niches (earning it the nickname “Nine Fountains”) that once spouted water collected from the Taurus foothills. Restoration work has given visitors a glimpse of its grandeur; Medusa-head spouts and lion gargoyles, once played with water, have been carefully restored. The Romans brought water from 30 km away, and inscriptions credit wealthy citizens for funding these pipes.
Beyond the city lie the Roman aqueducts. Unlike the remaining city walls and columns, many aqueduct bridges survive well outside of Side. The system, built in the 2nd century AD and upgraded by 3rd, brought fresh water from springs north of Side. Uniquely, because the terrain was hilly and the elevation drop minimal, the engineers built a nearly straight line of aqueducts, which required an unusually large number of tunnels (16 in total) and 22 bridge spans across ravines. These aqueduct arches still dot the countryside: one can see them near the Oymapinar Dam and beyond. They remind us that the city’s brilliance was not only cultural but technical. Tour boats often pass under some arches near the shore, pointing out how water once flowed just above today’s vessel.
No city of the Empire was complete without baths, and Side was no exception. The main bath complex sits near the theatre. Today it has been repurposed as the Side Museum – fittingly, since the museum itself occupies a former Roman bathhouse. The museum’s exhibits (including statues, sarcophagi and coin hoards) vividly illustrate the city’s long narrative. As you tour the ruin of the baths, you can see the hypocaust pillars that once supported hot floors, and tiling floors where Romans strolled after hours.
Inside the museum, objects from every era of Side’s past are arrayed with care. Bronze statues of Artemis, carved reliefs of Dionysus, mosaics of Aphrodite – they chart Side’s multicultural tapestry. One highlight is a marine-themed mosaic featuring the god Oceanus, found in a villa. Another is a stunning mosaic pavement depicting a trident and a head of Medusa, which was in front of what was likely a pleasure garden’s fountain. The museum also displays the bracelets, jugs and everyday pottery of common citizens – bringing to life the ordinary people behind the grand story.
Visitors often feel the bathhouse itself is the prize: the restored frigidarium (cool room) with its monumental arches, the warm caldarium (heated room) with octagonal pools and red-yellow marble columns imported from Asia Minor. On sunny days one can see the roofless sections where open sky once poured rain into the court. It is as if time has turned back; a marble pedestal still stands where a statue would have greeted bathers. Throughout the museum, inscriptions explain the finds, ensuring that a casual tourist can become as informed as an archaeologist.
From the Temple of Apollo, one of the oldest colonnaded streets leads east through the ruins. Imagine walking along these paved roads 2,000 years ago: merchants would line them with shops and gazebos, literate scribes could arrange contracts, and maybe a wealthy patrician window-shopped at a chalcidian (bronze-worker) forge. Today, column drums lie half-buried in the grass, showing how the street would have appeared. Walking among them, you sense the breadth of the city: even far from the main agora, stone footings and mosaic shards tell you it was once just as grand here.
Near these streets lies the Vespasianus (Flavian) Fountain. Visitors often pause at this monumental fountain before entering the harbor. It has an elegant facade with three central niches and flanking arches, partly restored by archaeologists. The fountain originally cascaded water from the heights of the walls into a basin that today is dry. Passing through the arches, one gains a view of the port and temples – a fitting image of the confluence of utility (water) and beauty (architecture) that was Roman Side.
Just beyond the fountain stands the triumphal Vespasian Gate (sometimes called the Arch). In the days of the Flavian dynasty, this archway commemorated Emperor Vespasian and his sons Titus and Domitian. Its central arch is framed by Corinthian columns, and relief carvings of Imperial insignia once adorned it. Travelers have written that as many images survive carved in stone: a Colossus of Apollo, a bacchanalian procession and a proclamation of peace. Today only some carvings remain, but even a still water fountain was built here in Ottoman times (also now restored). It marked the narrowing peninsula here; crossing under it symbolically brought one closer to the sacred temples and the harbor beyond.
Ancient Side’s stones are the main attraction, but today’s visitors also delight in the charms of modern Side. Its small Old Town is a pleasant discovery after a morning in ruins. Around the central square (dominated by a statue of Atatürk), narrow alleys wind between stone-and-timber houses. The main thoroughfare, Liman Caddesi, runs from the bus station down to the harborfront. This busy avenue is lined with cafes, artisan shops and small boutiques selling leather goods, spices and local handicrafts. At sunset the seafront promenade fills with couples strolling and families pausing to admire the view. Though commercialized, the setting still retains an air of history: some restaurants incorporate old walls into their décor, and an ancient olive press or two can be glimpsed behind glass floors. (Signage will often point out any Roman or Ottoman remains beneath your feet.) Side’s Old Town is informal and unhurried: here one can wander freely, sampling Turkish coffee or baklava, in the gentle light of the evening.
Inside the town, the rhythm of daily life is laid-back. Tourists and locals trade smiles; stray cats find sunbeams to sleep in; the call to prayer from the new mosque blends with birdsong in the orange trees. Small family-run restaurants serve fresh fish caught that morning off the coast, grilled kebabs and salads of tomatoes, cucumbers and feta – the Mediterranean diet at its simplest. Tables spill out onto sidewalks shaded by bougainvillea. Despite the touristic styling, one can feel a genuine sense of place: this is the same spot where people have gathered on warm evenings for generations. English is widely spoken, menus are bilingual, and prices are modest. There is even a small museum in town (the old Roman baths) for an indoor break, though most visitors save the museum for the official Side Museum next to the ruins.
Modern Side also lies on a long sandy coast. The beach directly under the temples (often called Selimiye Beach) is a small cove popular for swimming, with a gradual sandy slope and clear water. Lifeguards and umbrellas appear in summer. Just east of town, the coast spreads into a series of broad public beaches fringed by pines. Karasu Beach, Kleopatra Beach and Yali Bati Beach are all within a 5–10 minute drive of the old city. Each has golden sand and gentle waves ideal for families. Further east, beyond these, the land rounds to the cave-rich peninsula of Manavgat. Here, secluded inlets allow more adventurous visitors to snorkel or kayak along hidden coves. Just offshore, a short boat ride can reach Kızkalesi, an island fort – the setting of a local sunset legend – which is a romantic half-hour trip.
Because Side juts into the sea, every beach enjoys breezes and views of distant boats. The water is warm (27–28°C in summer) and clear, making it perfect for swimming. Many hotels and public access points have showers and small cafés. A day on the sand pairs perfectly with a half-day of ruins: spend the morning amid columns and sculpture, then flop onto a lounger by noon. For more active seaside fun, a range of water sports is available: from paddleboats and jet skis to organized boat cruises. Early-morning sailing tours also leave the harbor to watch the dawn break over the Taurus Mountains – a quiet but magical alternative to the crowds.
Side’s cuisine highlights the bounty of the region. Fresh olive oil, lemons and oranges grow abundantly here, and the menus reflect Mediterranean influences. Don’t miss trying mezes – appetizers like stuffed grape leaves (dolma), hummus with tahini, and vinegary salads. For seafood, the local specialty is sinarit (red porgy) grilled with lemon and herbs, or Levrek (sea bass) served fried. Many seaside restaurants even cook your catch-of-the-day at the table. In town, sit down at a quiet backstreet café for künefe, a sweet cheese pastry drenched in syrup, to conclude your meal.
Traditional Turkish breakfasts are also superb here. Feta and olives are local specialties, as is bal kaymak (honey and clotted cream) usually served with tea. Locals might suggest a tavern called a meyhane for lively evenings of raki (an anise-flavored spirit) and fish plates. Because of Side’s mix of cultures, you can even find Middle Eastern grills and Russian-style bakeries (the Russian tourist presence is significant). But everywhere, the friendly servers and the sea breeze ensure every meal is memorable.
Just a short drive from Side (about 12 km northwest) lies the Manavgat Waterfall, a must-see natural spectacle. Here the Manavgat River spills in a wide curtain over a low cliff. In contrast to the soaring falls of Antalya, Manavgat’s fall is broad and thunderous over a one-kilometer width, the water frothing over limestone steps. The best vantage point is from the rim: a viewing platform (a pedestrian bridge) allows you to see the waterfall in full, often with rainbows in its mist. Downstream you can picnic or take a traditional wooden raft ride. The falls are less elevated but more expansive than many others; the Romans themselves found it noteworthy. One guidebook notes, “Its high flow over a wide area as it falls from a low height is best viewed from a high altitude”.
A visit to Manavgat Falls is ideal either early in the day or late afternoon. Vendors sell corn-on-the-cob roasted in the humid air, and little tea gardens perch at the banks. It is a cooler respite from the ruins’ stone. Organized tours often combine the falls with a quick stop at a local market in Manavgat town, which is known for its high-quality textiles and leather.
Active travelers will find no shortage of pursuits. Boat tours depart daily from the old harbor, heading west along the coast toward Sorgun Beach or east toward Kızkalesi Island. Some cruises include stops for snorkeling or a short hike to a Gypsy waterfall outfall. Others are sunset dinners on the water with Turkish folk music. Offshore, scuba divers explore an underwater museum of amphorae and anchor chains (a tribute reef project), where remnants of shipwrecks lie encrusted with coral. Snorkelers report seeing octopus, barracuda, and colorful parrotfish around rocky outcrops near the shore. For high-speed thrills, jet-ski rentals hug the peninsula, while parasailing over the water offers a spectacular aerial view of Side’s temples from a new perspective.
If land-bound, there are jeep safaris and cycling routes through the pine forests north of Side. Horseback riding on the beach is also offered. Even the Temple of Athena is gaining interest among photographers and history buffs now that it stands revealed after restoration. In summer, the ancient theatre becomes a venue for classical concerts and dance performances under the stars, connecting Side’s past with a living present. The combination of beach and adventure options means that even if you come only for the history, the natural beauty of the region will reward you abundantly.
Side is easily reached from Antalya, the regional hub. By road it is about 75 kilometers east along the D400 coastal highway. The drive takes roughly 1.5 hours by car or bus. Shuttle vans and local buses (dolmuş) leave frequently from Antalya’s central coach station toward Manavgat, and most will stop in Side’s center. (A taxi or minibus from Manavgat costs only a few euros.) Many tour operators include Side in full-day excursions. If renting a car, one simply follows the main Antalya–Alanya highway to the Side exit and signs for the harbour. Parking lots are available just outside the ruins (advance coordination may be wise for large coaches).
An alternative scenic approach is by boat. During summer, tourist boats cruise down the Manavgat River from its inland sources; some of these land passengers by jetty near Side’s harbor. However, road travel is far more common.
Within Side, the site itself is compact enough to walk end-to-end in under 30 minutes. The modern town is small: dolmuş vans run along the coast road, and taxis are plentiful. Many hotels offer shuttle services to the ruins and beaches.
Side enjoys a classic Mediterranean climate: hot, dry summers and mild, rainy winters. Peak tourist season is June through August. Summer brings long sunshine hours and warm seas, but midday temperatures can soar above 35°C (95°F). For comfort, spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) are ideal. In spring the flowers bloom among the ruins and the sea is refreshing but not freezing; autumn offers balmy days and beautiful golden light on the columns.
Even winter can be pleasant: January lows are around 8–10°C (46–50°F), and the countryside turns lush from occasional rain. Several hotels remain open year-round. The archaeological site is actually quite peaceful in winter, with very few tourists (though one should prepare for cooler mornings). Opening hours are shorter in winter, so it is wise to check schedules if visiting in off-season.
Note that midday in summer can be uncomfortably hot for extensive sightseeing. Visitors commonly schedule the archaeological exploration for early morning or late afternoon. One popular itinerary is to tour the ruins at sunrise or sunset, and then enjoy the hottest hours by the beach or pool.
Side has a full range of lodging. Many large beachfront resorts line the west side of the peninsula, offering all-inclusive packages with pools and private beaches. These resorts typically have rooms overlooking the Med or gardens with amenities like spa and kids’ clubs. For more independent travelers, the town has dozens of mid-range and budget hotels – often family-run – clustered near the harbor and Old Town. These tend to be older stone buildings converted into inns with Turkish decor. In Selimiye village itself, a few boutique guesthouses occupy restored Ottoman-era mansions.
Camping enthusiasts can find private campgrounds just outside Side’s perimeter. And for that truly immersive option, a limited number of guests can stay overnight in Selimiye’s small pensions (converted Greek-style houses). Prices range widely: simple pensions start under €30 per night in low season, while luxury resorts can exceed €200. As always, advanced booking is recommended in July–August.
Both options have their merits. Independent travelers will find Side very walkable and well-signed. Informational placards stand at major ruins with details in English. The site is compact enough to explore alone with a good guidebook or map. However, guided tours (whether group or private) can enhance understanding – archaeologists and historians leading tours often provide stories and context beyond what signage shows. They can also streamline your visit (keeping children entertained or answering niche questions about architecture). Many tours combine Side with other sites like Aspendos or cruise along the coast.
Guides should be licensed by the Turkish Ministry of Culture; they will carry identification. They typically speak English (many also offer tours in German, Russian, etc., reflecting visitor demographics). You can arrange guides in advance through travel agencies, or hire one at the site entrance (there is usually a kiosk). Note that guided tours involve extra fees (for the guide, not for the site entry). If you are on a tight budget and can spend time reading, you can certainly enjoy Side on your own. If you’re seeking deep insight, a guide brings local lore and scholarly expertise to life.
Even an exhaustive tour can leave the curious mind hungry for more. Here are some deeper threads and lesser-known facets of Side:
Is Side Ancient City free to enter?
Yes. Entry to the archaeological site – including the theatre, temples, walls and other ruins – is free of charge. (The adjoining Side Museum and the theater’s small visitor center have separate admission fees.)
What is the entrance fee to the Side Museum and Amphitheater?
As of 2025, the Side Archaeology Museum (located in the old Roman baths) charges an entrance fee of about 450 Turkish lira, though a MuseumPass Türkiye holder can enter for free. The ancient theater itself (being an open ruin) is included in the free site entry, but if you wish to see the museum exhibits of artifacts found there, the museum ticket covers that.
What is the old town of Side like?
Side’s old town (Selimiye) is a charming small village of winding streets and stone buildings. The heart is the waterfront square, dominated by a statue of Atatürk. From here, Liman Caddesi stretches to the bus station. Along these narrow lanes are markets, souvenir shops, and many restaurants and cafés set among ancient walls. Traditional Turkish tea gardens offer sweets beneath grapevines. The atmosphere is laid-back; evenings are pleasant with lit streetlamps and the scent of jasmine. In short, it is like a very small, friendly Mediterranean town cradling its antiquity in plain sight.
What is the history of Side in Turkey?
Side’s history spans roughly 2700 years. It began as a Greek colony (7th c. BC), rose to power under Hellenistic and then Roman rule (especially flourishing from 25 BC to 250 AD), and later became an Eastern Roman (Byzantine) Christian city. It declined after the 7th century due to war and natural disasters, was abandoned by the 10th century, and only rediscovered in the 20th century. For detailed chronology, see sources: coins and inscriptions , Roman prosperity , and archaeological surveys.
Can you walk around Side Old Town?
Absolutely. Side’s modern town is entirely pedestrian-friendly. Most historic streets are cobblestone or paved and flat. You can easily walk from Liman Caddesi down to the harbor, exploring shops and mosques en route. Vehicular traffic is minimal in the tourist area. Wear comfortable shoes and you can wander freely through old markets and hidden alleyways where domestic life goes on.
How long do you need in Side?
To see Side’s ancient site thoroughly (the ruins plus the museum), plan on at least half a day (4–6 hours). If you wish to explore the Old Town, have a swim or partake in a boat trip, then a full day or overnight stay is worthwhile. Visitors on tight schedules sometimes allocate 3–4 hours in the morning for the ruins and then have the afternoon free. The bus/tour guide tip is usually 4–6 hours to “fully appreciate” Side including site, museum and lunch.
What is the currency in Side, Turkey?
The official currency is the Turkish Lira (TRY). Prices in shops and restaurants are quoted in lira. Major credit cards are accepted at hotels and many restaurants, but it is wise to carry cash for small purchases, market vendors, tips and local buses. ATMs dispensing lira are available in Side town.
What are the opening hours for the Side Museum and Amphitheater?
The Side Archaeological Museum is open daily year-round. Summer hours (April 1–Oct 31) are typically 08:30–19:30, winter hours (Nov 1–Mar 31) 08:30–17:30. The outdoor archaeological site (including the amphitheater) is generally open every day. In summer it may remain open as late as 21:00 (dusk); in winter it closes by about 17:30. Always verify closer to travel, as times can vary by a week or two depending on official decisions.
How to get to Side from Antalya?
By road, follow the D400 highway east from Antalya towards Manavgat. It is a straightforward 75 km drive (about 1.5 hours). Regular buses (dolmuş) run from Antalya’s main bus station to Manavgat, from where local buses go into Side. Coaches, taxis and rental cars all use the D400 coastal highway. Alternatively, one can rent a boat or join a coastal cruise that stops at Side’s harbor (in summer months).
What is the best time of year to visit Side?
Late spring (April–May) and early autumn (September–October) offer the most pleasant weather. These shoulder seasons have warm sunny days and fewer crowds, ideal for exploring the ruins. July and August are hot (up to 40°C) and busy; if visiting then, go early morning to avoid heat and crowds. Winter months are off-season: many sites remain open, but it can be chilly or rainy (though midday sun is still quite warm).
Are there guided tours available for the ancient city?
Yes. Licensed guides offer private or group tours in Side. These can be booked through agencies or at the site itself. A guide can provide historical context and point out details you might miss. Tours often last 2–3 hours through the main highlights. They typically cost extra on top of any museum fees. However, many visitors choose to explore on their own using maps and guidebooks, as information boards at the site are quite informative.
What should I wear when visiting the ancient ruins?
Comfort is key. Light, breathable clothing is recommended in the warm months. Sturdy walking shoes are a must on uneven terrain. A sun hat, sunglasses and sunscreen will protect you from strong sun (especially April–October). If you visit in spring or fall, a light jacket or shawl may be needed in the cooler mornings or evenings. Traditional modest attire is respected; as a courtesy, avoid very revealing clothing in the village area, especially if you plan to enter the local mosque (cover shoulders and knees at minimum).
Are there restaurants and facilities within the ancient city?
Inside the fenced archaeological site itself, facilities are limited. There are a few small kiosks and restrooms near the main entrance selling water, soft drinks and snacks. But no full restaurants operate within the ruins. Just outside the site gates (especially along Liman Caddesi and the harbour), numerous eateries, cafés and taverns serve meals and refreshments. They range from simple kebab shops to lakeside seafood restaurants. In summer there are also ice cream and juice stands in front of the harbor. All essential services (shops, ATMs, pharmacies) are within a short walk of the ruins.
What other historical sites are near Side?
Side is perfectly situated to explore Antalya Province’s antique heritage. Not far away are Perge (60 km west), an ancient Pamphylian city with a stadium, bath-gymnasium complex and the famous colonnaded street. Even closer, about 30–35 km west, is Aspendos, home to one of the ancient world’s grandest theaters (still used for opera and ballet performances). Termessos (near Antalya city) is reachable in a longer day trip (high-elevation ruins in a forest). For Roman engineering fans, the Oymapinar Dam is an active reservoir built above the ancient aqueduct supply for Side’s water. And of course the Manavgat Waterfall is practically next door as a pleasant nature stop. Each of these can be visited with a car or organized tour.
No modern tourist destination is beyond reach. Antalya city’s historic Kaleiçi district and its famous Düden Waterfalls are about 70 km west. Journeying inland, the ancient Lycian cities of Termessos and Phaselis (by Kemer) are popular for combined itineraries. Essentially, staying in Side gives you the option to day-trip in all directions: to mountain fortresses, to other antique harbors, or even to beach resorts like Alanya farther east. Thus Side can be a basecamp for history buffs wanting a broad sweep of Anatolian culture, or simply a destination to savor in its own right.