Located on the western edge of Erzurum city, Nene Hatun National Park is both a scenic highland retreat and a monument to Turkish resilience. Established in 2009, the 387-hectare park encompasses the historic Aziziye and Mecidiye Forts on Top Dağı and the surrounding pine-clad foothills. More than just a quiet nature preserve, it is hallowed ground – the site where Ottoman irregulars and townspeople, led by the young widow Fatma “Nene” Hatun, wrested the forts back from a surprise Russian assault in November 1877. Today, the park’s open grasslands, wildflowers, and forest trails echo with that legacy. It offers modern visitors a chance to hike among battle ruins, reflect at memorials, and take in broad vistas of the Palandöken Mountains and Erzurum plain below.

A Quick Look at the Park’s Key Attractions:

• Aziziye Fort Complex: Three adjacent earthen redoubts (Aziziye I, II, III) stretching up the slope of Top Dağı. Aziziye I houses the main monuments – a 1952 martyrs’ cenotaph, Nene Hatun’s tomb and statue, plus a small museum and café. Aziziye II and III extend northward and can be visited via trails and stairways.
• Mecidiye Fort: A larger fortified bastion on a northern shoulder of Top Dağı, covering the approach from the Pasinler plains. Its thick walls and tunnels still shelter survivors of mid-19th-century Ottoman defenses.
• Nene Hatun Statue and Tomb: A bronze statue captures Nene Hatun with rifle and arm raised, symbolizing her wartime courage. Nearby lies her actual gravesite, marked by a memorial. Together these personalize the story and are a focal point for patriotic remembrance.
• Scenic Viewpoints and Trails: The park’s ridgetops offer sweeping views of Erzurum city and the distant mountains. Several short walking loops (for example, the “Rampart Loop” around Aziziye at about 2 km) and longer hikes (such as a 5 km ridge trail) connect the forts to picnic areas and viewing terraces.
• Amenities: A visitor center near Aziziye I has historical exhibits (including an arms display), restrooms, and a cafeteria. Outdoors there are picnic tables, a tearoom terrace, and cultural-signage panels explaining the sites. Parking is available at the park entrance and Aziziye I.

The Heroine of Erzurum: The Full Story of Nene Hatun

Who Was Nene Hatun? From Young Mother to National Icon

Nene Hatun (1857–1955) is one of modern Turkey’s most beloved folk heroines. Born Fatma in the little village of Çeperli just outside Erzurum, she was a peasant girl who married a local man named Mehmet Efendi. By her late teens she was a mother of two young children. When war came to Erzurum in 1877, Fatma’s life would change forever.

In 1877 the Ottoman Empire was defending Erzurum against a Russian army invading from the Caucasus. On the night of November 8th, the Russians launched a surprise attack on the Ottoman redoubts (forts) that guarded the city. Aziziye I and II fell to the Russians in quick succession. At dawn the next morning, the imam’s call to prayer from Erzurum’s mosques announced the news: “The forts have fallen!” The city’s soldiers were defeated or dispersed, and panic began to spread.

It was at that desperate moment that Fatma made her fateful choice. Ignoring her own fears, she said a prayer for her country and walked out to join the fighting. Contemporary accounts tell us she left behind her three-month-old baby – entrusting the child to neighbors – and took up an axe and rifle. “A Turkish child can grow up without a father, but cannot grow up without a homeland,” she is said to have declared. With that resolve she ran toward the forts alongside other male volunteers.

According to witnesses, Nene Hatun fought with extraordinary courage. She and a band of townsfolk stormed Aziziye I, where Ottoman survivors were barricaded. Armed with little more than stone and stick alongside rifles, Nene and others drove the Russians from the captured bastion. By mid-morning the citizens of Erzurum had turned the tide – a rally later called the “Aziziye Victory.” Though details are wrapped in legend (the numbers of soldiers involved are disputed), the popular narrative endures: the people of Erzurum, led by Nene Hatun, put up a great fight and took back the forts from the Russians.

“My child is motherless, but my country cannot be without a defender”: The Legend and the Reality

Nene Hatun’s legendary status grew from this single night’s valor. News of her bravery spread quickly through Erzurum and beyond. She was barely 20 years old when the battle was won, a young mother turned warrior. Folk songs and eyewitness stories embellished her deeds, painting her as the epitome of maternal patriotism. The most famous quote attributed to her captures this spirit: she reportedly told her crying infant’s father, “Take care of my child… a Turkish child can grow up without a father, but not without a motherland”.

Historians note that many details about that day are hard to verify – for example, official records do not specifically single out Nene Hatun by name. Yet the consistency of local memory is striking. The cultural inventory of Turkey recounts: “Nene Hatun’s important services were rendered at the Aziziye Victory… when she learned that the Aziziye fortress had fallen and Erzurum’s people were called to help, she went to defend it”. Even leaving her wounded brother and baby behind, she “went to the front” during the critical hours of the battle. Whether one calls it myth or fact, her story grew as a moral exemplar: a humble peasant-mother who answered the call to defend her nation.

Nene Hatun’s Later Life and Rediscovery

After the war, Fatma married again and took the surname Kırkgöz (meaning “forty-sight” – a title given to respected mothers). She had six children altogether. She lived quietly on the outskirts of Erzurum, raising her family and bearing the scars of that era. World War I took her only son, who fell at Gallipoli, and her husband passed away in the 1930s. For years, Nene Hatun’s story was mostly preserved by local tradition and school textbooks.

In 1934 Turkey’s new Surname Law finally gave her the last name Kırkgöz. In 1937, when officials built the Aziziye War Memorial, the project introduced the heroic widow to a national audience. By the 1950s even President İsmet İnönü knew of her: in 1952 General Refik Türün and the Third Army command bestowed upon her the honorary title “Nene Hatun – Grandmother of the Third Army.” On Mother’s Day of 1955 she was honored as “Annelerin Annesi” (“Mother of Mothers”) by Presidential decree.

Her Legacy: Nene Hatun as a Symbol of Turkish Female Patriotism

Nene Hatun’s image became woven into the fabric of Turkish national identity. Her statue, poems, and the naming of institutions after her turned a local legend into a national symbol. The park itself, bearing her name, stands as a kind of outdoor museum to her life and to the 1877 battle.

Inside the park, one finds the Nene Hatun Monument – a graceful bronze statue by sculptor Metin Yurdanur (1998) that captures her standing with rifle raised in defiance. Nearby is her tomb, marked by a tombstone and flanked by the Turkish flag, so that visitors can pay respects. These memorials are placed directly on the Aziziye bastions she helped liberate. On anniversaries (particularly November 8th or October 29th), ceremonies are held here, with wreath-laying and official speeches. The symbolism is deliberate: Nene Hatun represents the courage of civilians (especially women and mothers) contributing to the nation’s survival.

In cultural memory, she joins other Turkish female warriors in a pantheon – Şerife Bacı at Kastamonu in WWI, and Halime Çavuş, just to name two. But Nene Hatun was among the earliest and has become possibly the best-known. Even today, schoolchildren learn her story, and she is the subject of plays and folk songs. Her legacy is inseparable from the landscape of the park: as one travels between the crumbling fort walls and pine-shaded trails, the sense is that history is still present, and that the strong, gentle resolve of a young mother helped shape this land’s destiny.

Image: The Aziziye I bastion today, rebuilt walls and the modern 1952 martyrs’ monument. Surrounding it are the landscape and memorials that make up Nene Hatun National Park (the mountain slopes extend into the distance).

The Crucible of Conflict: The Russo-Turkish War of 1877-78

Understanding the Geopolitical Context: The Ottoman-Russian Rivalry

To fully appreciate Nene Hatun’s heroism, one must understand the war erupting around her. In the late 1870s, the Ottoman Empire was a fading power and Russia was eager to expand southward. The immediate trigger was growing insurgency among Balkan Orthodox Christians (Bulgarians, Serbians, etc.), which Russia claimed to champion. In April 1877, after diplomacy failed, Russia formally declared war on the Ottoman Empire. This was part of a larger strategy: Russian armies would advance on two fronts. One front swept across the Balkans (see Pleven and Edirne on maps), while the other pressed southeast from the Caucasus.

On paper, Erzurum was prime Ottoman real estate – it had long been fortified against earlier threats. But by 1877 the city’s defenses were somewhat outdated and understaffed. Sultan Abdülaziz had built a ring of fortifications (tabyalar) around Erzurum in the 1860s and 1870s, knowing a Russian push down the Caucasus was likely. Erzurum lay at a crossroads between Anatolia and the Caucasus mountains, so controlling it was crucial to both sides. The Russian high command deployed General Lazarev’s army to capture key positions in eastern Anatolia quickly.

The Erzurum Front: Why This City Was a Strategic Linchpin

The Russians first moved against the fortified Kars region, capturing Bayezid on April 17 and Ardahan on May 17, 1877. These early victories gave them a staging area facing Erzurum from the northeast. Seeing Kars threatened, the Ottomans rushed some troops from Erzurum to try to relieve Kars, but in late June the garrison at Kars was also overwhelmed, leaving Erzurum exposed.

By autumn 1877 the Russian Caucasus army had reorganized for a final push toward Erzurum. On November 4, they struck the Ottoman defensive line at Deveboynu (just north of Erzurum) in a pitched battle. The battle went badly for the Ottomans: thousands were killed or routed, and the survivors fell back to Erzurum itself. Sensing victory, the Russian forces then pressed forward on the night of November 8–9 with a surprise assault on the outer redoubts guarding the city.

The Battle for the Aziziye Forts: A Minute-by-Minute Account

According to contemporary Russian and Ottoman sources, the attack unfolded in two waves. The first objective was the Mecidiye and Aziziye forts on Top Dağı. In well-coordinated night attacks, Russian troops crept up the slopes and stormed the earthworks by infantry assault. The Aziziye forts “fell by surprise,” in the words of a later source, and the Ottoman garrison that held them was overwhelmed and virtually wiped out. Those forts had been manned by only a few hundred men against roughly a brigade of Russian storm troops. As a result, the young officers and artillerymen defending Aziziye I–III were either killed or captured. By early dawn on November 9, Aziziye I and II were in Russian hands.

At this point the formal Ottoman military defence of Erzurum had effectively collapsed. In the city below, panic spread when the mosque calls announced the news of the forts’ fall. Many regular soldiers who had been withdrawing from the battlefield melted away; local officials began planning to evacuate. But Erzurum was not yet lost. Incredibly, as one Ottoman memoir notes, ordinary citizens – men, women, and even teenagers – spontaneously armed themselves and rushed to the bulwarks. They utilized anything at hand: rifles left behind, stones, axes, even farming tools.

This sudden civilian uprising turned the tide. In what would become known to locals as the Aziziye Victory, the townspeople counterattacked the Russian positions. For hours there was savage hand-to-hand fighting in the trenches and on the slopes. The women, including the young Fatma Kırkgöz, played an active part: they passed ammunition, tended the wounded, and in at least one case directly engaged in combat. By midday on November 9, after suffering unexpectedly fierce resistance, the Russian assault force had to withdraw. They abandoned their captured redoubts, which the Ottoman townsfolk then re-entered. According to one eyewitness account, “Erzurum halkı şehrin savunmasına katıldı ve Aziziye Zaferi’ni kazandı” – “the people of Erzurum took part in the defense and won the Aziziye Victory”.

One historical account bluntly reports what happened: “the Russian army took the Mecidiye and Aziziye bastions by surprise, annihilating the garrison in them… However, the people of Erzurum joined the defense and won the Aziziye Victory”. In short, after that climactic morning, Russians held no permanent ground on the city heights except the field behind it.

Nene Hatun herself was not the only hero that day – but she became its emblem. The popular narrative credits her and a few neighbors with retaking Aziziye I at swordpoint and axe. Whether or not she alone swung the decisive blow, the record is clear that women and villagers seized the battlefield from day soldiers. The Ottoman commander in Erzurum, witnessing the turn of events, was stunned to see civilians inflict such losses on the Russians. In any case, the result was that Erzurum’s outer forts remained under Ottoman control after November 9, 1877.

The Aftermath: Impact on Erzurum and the Empire

In the short term, this citizen uprising saved Erzurum from immediate capture. Russian forces retreated back to Kars, realizing that holding the city without heavy investment was impractical. As one Ottoman report noted, Kars itself fell on November 19, enabling the Russians to threaten Erzurum again. Recognizing the broader crisis, the Ottoman government agreed to an armistice. By the Treaty of San Stefano (March 3, 1878) Erzurum was formally ceded to Russia (though that concession was later reversed by the Treaty of Berlin, which returned Erzurum and Kars to Ottoman hands).

For Erzurum itself, the battle had immense consequences. Many lives were lost, and much of the landscape was scarred by mines, trenches, and bullet marks (some of which are still visible on the stone and earthen walls). More subtly, the psychological impact was profound: a rural Anatolian town had stood up to Europe’s great power. Nene Hatun’s story – and the image of clergy, soldiers, and civilians united on the battlefield – became a powerful narrative in Ottoman (and later Turkish) historiography. The city rebuilt its defenses and moved on, but not without preserving memories of that siege as sacred.

Exploring the Fortifications: A Visitor’s Guide to the Aziziye and Mecidiye Forts

The Strategic Importance of Erzurum’s 19th-Century Fortifications

Erzurum’s geography naturally invited fortification. The city sits on a plateau surrounded by gentle hills, with approaches from the north (via the Georgian Pass) and northeast (via Kars), and the Palandöken range to the south. During the 1850s and 1860s, amid ongoing tension with Russia and Persia, Ottoman military planners built or expanded a chain of redoubts (in Turkish tabya) around these high points. These included five major tabyas on the northern slope (from west to east: Kalebaşı, Aziziye I, II, III, and Mecidiye) and several more on nearby ridges.

The most famous of these are the Aziziye Bastions. Aziziye I, II, and III lie in a row running roughly south-to-north on the western face of Top Dağı. They are earth-and-stone forts in a “C”-shaped (curvilinear) design typical of late-Ottoman defenses. Conceived by Sultan Abdülaziz in the 1860s, their purpose was to defend Erzurum against an advance through the Hamam Deresi valley (the old route towards Kars). Each bastion is surrounded by a ditch and built with gun emplacements that once held light cannon and rifles. In 1877 Aziziye I and II bore the brunt of the Russian night attack; they were also the sites where the ensuing struggle and local counterattack took place.

Farther north, atop another spur, lies Mecidiye Fort (Tabyası). This is a larger, enclosed redoubt built in 1852 under Sultan Abdülmecid. It controls the approach from the Georgian Pass by covering the plain of Pasinler to the northeast. The walls of Mecidiye were higher and thicker than Aziziye, reflecting its role as a central citadel. By 1877 it served as Erzurum’s final stronghold if outer defenses fell. Today visitors can walk its ramparts and internal parade ground, imagining the Ottoman battalion that once prepared for siege here.

The Aziziye Forts (Tabyaları): A Self-Guided Tour

Aziziye I: Layout, Cannons, and Defensive Strategy

Begin your visit at Aziziye I, the southernmost of the three Aziziye bastions. From the parking area and visitor center you can walk up a paved path into the fort. Aziziye I forms a semicircular earthen enclosure about 100 meters across, with parapet walls of stone and brick. Originally it would have bristled with small artillery positions – holes or niches where swivel guns and riflemen stood watch. A plaque on-site notes that the original plan was to place four 6-pounder cannons here, aimed across the valley. Today you can still find three historic Ottoman muzzle-loading cannons on display behind the main monument plaza, aligned as if covering the ground Russian infantry once occupied.

The approach works into a courtyard at ground level and a raised bastion walkway. You can climb up a metal staircase onto the embankment parapet. From here you get a commanding view: to the south stretches Palandöken Mountain, and below you the Erzurum plain. Look also northeast: you should see Aziziye II and the distant Mecidiye if weather is clear. Imagine Russian soldiers assaulting up those slopes – the sightline makes clear how exposed they were.

An interesting detail: atop this bastion is the Aziziye Martyrs’ Monument, erected in 1952. It is a simple obelisk-like cenotaph with plaques of names of those who fell in 1877. Around it are flags and wreaths. Immediately adjacent, Nene Hatun’s tomb and grave marker lie in a gated enclosure. Finally, on a stone base next to the tomb, stands the sculpted bronze statue of Nene Hatun. The plaque beneath it reads: “Rescuer of Palandöken and Mother of the Martyrs.” Take a moment here. The combination of old fortress earth and modern memorials embodies the park’s purpose: history remembered within the landscape that bore it.

Aziziye II: Site of the Fiercest Fighting

From the top of Aziziye I, follow the narrow trail north about 150 meters to Aziziye II. This middle redoubt is slightly smaller and roughly rectangular, with higher earthen walls. In 1877 it was the focal point of hand-to-hand combat. Local tradition holds that after Aziziye I was retaken, survivors and reinforcements poured into Aziziye II to dislodge the remaining Russians. Although much of the original earthen wall has weathered away, you can still see traces of a cannon embrasure and a firing step (an earthen bench for infantrymen to stand behind while shooting). One of the old guns might still rest at the rear (look for a barrel sticking out of a modern plinth).

Walking along the rim of Aziziye II, notice how the walls have been patched with new brick in places – a sign of later repairs. The ditch here was deeper. There are also the remains of a small tunnel or passageway on one side, once used to shelter troops or move between redoubts. If you bring a camera, the top of Aziziye II makes a great photographic platform: the sun at dawn or dusk will silhouette the crenellated wall against the sky. In winter, snow highlights its profile. For this reason, photographers favor early morning when the warm light grazes the bastion’s contours.

Walking the Ramparts and the Best Vantage Points

Whether you stop at Aziziye I or continue through II to Aziziye III (another 100 meters beyond), the key is to walk the ramparts. The trail follows the old trench line, so you are literally tracing the steps of 1877 combatants. On these beaten earth paths you may find preserved artifacts: bullets, shrapnel, or even a bent bayonet (though the park asks visitors to resist souvenir-collecting to preserve the site). Look for carved names and dates on the walls; soldiers and families sometimes scratched their names into the stone. Also note the 1970s-era refreshment stand at Aziziye III – it offers tea and snacks so visitors can relax with the panorama at hand.

At each bastion you’ll find small plaques or information boards (in Turkish; if you don’t read it, the diagrams are helpful). They illustrate the Ottoman defensive plan. Keep an eye out for a large placard in Aziziye II’s interior that shows a map of the fight. It clarifies that the Russian assault came up through the valley (from where Aziziye III stands) and that the counterattack circled behind and around. This is a true “walk through history” route.

Reading the Architecture: 19th-Century Ottoman Military Design

As you explore, notice the mix of materials. The Ottomans used local river stone and brick. The outer faces of the walls are stone blocks set in mortar; above, layers of earth and sod formed a slope to absorb artillery fire. In a few places, you can see “gabions” – rows of woven reed baskets filled with sand or earth, left as erosion control and part of the original construction. The “C”-shaped layout (open on the city side) was deliberate: it provided a wide firing angle and an entrance behind. Also note the embrasures – these rectangular openings in the parapets are the places where cannons once poked out. All are now empty, but they suggest the forts were prepared for a barrage that never fully came (the Russians mainly assaulted by infantry).

If you step away from the walls towards the hilltop trail, you may also spot an abandoned artillery battery behind Aziziye II. There are platforms and wheel-ruts cut into bedrock – a vestige of the mobile cannons once manned by Ottoman gunners.

The Mecidiye Fort (Tabyası): The Grand Citadel

Move now to Mecidiye Fort, about 800 meters north-east of Aziziye I by the village road (or via a steep uphill path from Aziziye III). Mecidiye is visibly larger and more closed-in than Aziziye’s bastions. It forms an almost complete polygon of 200 by 100 meters, with solid stone walls and a one-story barracks block built across its center. This was Erzurum’s main stronghold.

Climb up into Mecidiye via the doorway on the west side. Inside, you can examine the barracks, which have been partially restored. In one room is a simple alcove that served as a small prayer area. There are also underground tunnels (today closed for safety) that once led down the hill towards infantry and munitions shelters. The roof of the barracks is now a grassy lawn – a good place to picnic while imagining Ottoman officers in fez gazing down on potential attacking columns.

From the ramparts of Mecidiye, look back at Aziziye’s three bastions, now small hills in the distance. From this lofty citadel, the 19th-century Ottomans could signal back to Ankara or deploy reserves to threatened sectors. Tour the entire walkway around the top; note the stepped crenellations, which gave riflemen firing positions while maintaining cover. This is also one of the best spots to take wide-angle photos of Erzurum. Facing south, the whole city stretches out in the valley with its urban grid and distant mountains beyond. On clear days you can even see as far as neighboring provinces.

A recent restoration has stabilized much of Mecidiye, but you will still find holes and cracks from the 1877 shellfire. Keep an eye out for a small plaque explaining the Meijiye Fort’s rebuild during the late Ottoman reforms; none of these sites is kept exactly as it was in 1877, but enough survives to give a genuine impression.

Comparing Mecidiye and Aziziye: Different Designs for Different Purposes

It’s worth noting how Mecidiye and Aziziye differ in design. Mecidiye was built a generation earlier, in 1852, and was intended as a fortress to be held by a full battalion. It has thicker walls and an internal courtyard, making it more like a small castle. Aziziye’s forts (1867–1872) were more modern “field fortification” bastions: open-backed and camouflaged into the terrain, meant to be stormed or abandoned if lost. In practice, both kinds of fort became intertwined in the 1877 defense. During your walk, you’ll see that Mecidiye’s wall surface is smoother stonework, while Aziziye’s earthen embankments rise in grassy berms.

The Restoration Process: Preserving History for Future Generations

In recent years, the Turkish government’s preservation agencies have undertaken careful restoration of these forts. The masonry work you see on walls is mostly mid-20th-century repairs. Where an entire wall collapsed, modern brick and mortar have been used to fill in and prevent further erosion. Visitor pathways and signage were added, as were monument installations. In winter 2020, crews even planted young pine and oak seedlings on eroding slopes to stabilize them.

That said, the site is still “historical ruin,” not a polished theme-park. Vegetation grows in the ramparts, and in spring you’ll find wild flowers weaving through the cracks. This is part of its charm: rather than romanticizing it, the preservation leans toward conservation. Visitors are asked not to climb fragile ruins or take artifacts, just to tread lightly and respect the graves.

Photography Guide: The Best Spots to Capture the Forts’ Majesty

For enthusiasts, Nene Hatun National Park is a photographer’s delight. Aziziye I at sunrise is an especially photogenic spot: the Turkish flag often waving atop the memorial, early-morning haze in the valley below, and the golden sunlight on the monument. Try framing a shot with the obelisk or statue at one side, and the rising sun on the other. At sunset, the same view glows from the opposite side, though you may have to hike to Aziziye III or Mecidiye for a full silhouette against the sky.

In winter, the scene transforms: after a snowfall the fortress earthworks turn into soft white forms. There are good winter shots to be had of the flagpole on Aziziye I with a pristine snowfield stretching out. (Image: The park’s winter scenery is lovely. Photographed in February, the snow highlights the contours of the Aziziye bastions and martyrs’ obelisk.) Mid-day can be harsh due to sharp contrasts, so try morning or late afternoon for “golden hour” light.

If you have the gear, a telephoto lens on a stand is good for details: the old cannon emplacements, inscriptions on the memorials, or a distant portrait of Nene Hatun’s statue. Wide-angle (16–35mm) will help capture the full breadth of a bastion or the lofty castle walls. And if you’re lucky to visit at night during a full moon, long exposures of the fort ramparts under moonlight can be quite dramatic (though be careful walking in the dark!).

No matter the season, include a bit of context in each frame – a pine tree branch, a piece of the city far below – to ground the historical ruins in the living landscape.

Planning Your Visit: The Complete Practical Guide

Getting to Nene Hatun National Park

By Air: Erzurum’s airport (Erzurum–Çalış) is 12 km south of the city. From the airport you can take a taxi (about 15 minutes, fares roughly 200–250 TL in 2025) or the scheduled shuttle/minibus service into Erzurum. Once in the city center (Mecidiye Square or Cumhuriyet Caddesi), a taxi to Nene Hatun Park is easy.

From Erzurum City Center: The park lies on the slopes of Palandöken, about 7–8 km southeast of downtown. Several local minibuses (dolmuş) depart from the Büyükşehir terminal or Halitpaşa district, following the route toward Mecidiye. Ask for the “Nene Hatun park” stop (Şehitler Mahallesi). The bus ride is roughly 20–30 minutes. Taxis are also plentiful; a ride from Tabyalar Caddesi (a main city street) to the park’s entrance takes about 15 minutes.

Driving: If you have a rental car, head along D100 or D300 highway from central Erzurum toward Palandöken ski area. Take the Mecidiye exit (signed for Nene Hatun Park) and follow the road up into the foothills. There is a free park-and-ride lot at Aziziye I and another by Mecidiye Fort. Roads are paved but steep; in winter make sure your vehicle has winter tires or chains, as snow is common above 1500 m.

Essential Information: Hours, Fees, and Regulations

• Opening Hours: The park is generally open daily from 8:00 am to 8:00 pm in summer (April 1–September 30) and 8:00 am to 5:00 pm in the colder months (October 1–March 31). It is closed during winter (roughly late November through March) for maintenance and due to harsh weather. These seasonal times can vary slightly year to year, so check the official forestry/preservation site or local tourism office before planning.
• Entrance Fee: As of 2025, admission to Nene Hatun National Park is free of charge for all visitors. There is no ticket required at the gate. (Donations for upkeep of monuments are voluntary.)
• Park Regulations: As a protected historical site, visitors are expected to respect certain rules. Smoking is prohibited near monuments and in forested areas. Collecting rocks or artifacts is forbidden. Drones and flying model aircraft are not allowed, as they disturb wildlife and fellow visitors. Pets are permitted on leash on marked trails only.

When Is the Best Time to Visit Nene Hatun National Park?

Spring (April–June): In spring the park’s hills burst into bloom. By late May you will find hillsides dotted with wild poppies, redbuds and blue cornflowers on the steppes. Daytime temperatures are mild (10–20°C) and the mornings may still be crisp. This is the peak wildflower season, and a beautiful time for photography or a family picnic.

Summer (July–August): Summer brings warm, clear days (often 25–30°C by mid-afternoon). The trails are dry, and you can enjoy a full day outdoors. The only caveat is that on some weekends, especially around Turkish holidays, local tourism can bring more crowds. However, the evening light on the fortress walls is golden at this time, making for spectacular vistas. Remember sun protection: hats and sunscreen are a must, as the park is above 1800 m elevation.

Autumn (September–October): Early fall is a quieter season with cooling temperatures. The air is crystal-clear, and the foliage begins to take on pale autumn shades (especially the planted pines and lilacs around Mecidiye). This is a great season for photographers chasing the “golden hour” light, and hikers will find the weather very pleasant. By November, be prepared for sudden drops in temperature and the first snows on the peaks.

Winter (November–March): The park is officially closed from December through February. However, if you happen to be in Erzurum in winter and are well-equipped (snow boots, warm clothing), a daylight visit can be magical: snow covers the forts and memorials, and there are almost no visitors. Be extremely careful – paths can be icy or covered in deep snow, and some areas are not plowed. Only attempt it if conditions are safe and you have a sturdy 4×4 vehicle for the access road.

Amenities and Facilities

• Visitor Center: At Aziziye I you will find a modest building serving as an information point and museum. Inside are displays of period photographs, maps of the battle, and some recovered artifacts (rifle cartridges, a cannonball, etc.). Staff (when present) can provide brochures, restroom access, and assistance.
• Restrooms: Clean restroom facilities are available near the visitor center at Aziziye I and at a smaller kiosk near Aziziye III. Note that there are no public restrooms inside Mecidiye Fort, so plan ahead.
• Cafés and Gift Shops: Between Aziziye I and II is a small café/restaurant where you can buy tea, ayran, sandwiches, and Turkish coffee. There is also a wooden “culture street” shop selling light refreshments and postcards. No major gift shops are inside the park, but Erzurum city (in restaurants and kiosks) sells keychains or jewelry featuring Nene Hatun and the Turkish flag.
• Accessibility: Paths from the parking area to the Aziziye monument are partially paved, but they include moderate steps. Visitors with mobility issues may reach the tomb area but exploring the forts beyond might be difficult. The trail to Mecidiye involves a steep climb. There are benches at intervals for resting, however.

Image: Visitor amenities at Aziziye I. On this plaza stand the 1952 Aziziye Martyrs’ Monument (center) and the tomb of Nene Hatun (entrance gate at right). A museum/exhibit space is housed in the building at left. Trails lead further north to Aziziye II and the crest beyond.

Beyond the Forts: Nature and Recreation in the Park

The Natural Landscape of the Palandöken Foothills

While Nene Hatun National Park is prized for its history, its natural setting is equally striking. The park sits on the eastern foothills of Palandöken Mountain, ranging from about 1,800 to 2,200 meters in elevation. This zone is classified as Anatolian montane steppe. The general appearance is open rolling grassland with scattered shrubs and, increasingly, young pine plantings.

Flora here includes hardy steppe species. In spring and early summer you will see tall feather grass waving in the breeze, and round purple blooms of Centaurea tchihatcheffii (Erzurum’s provincial flower) carpeting the ground. Bright red wild roses (dog-rose) climb among the rocky outcrops. In places, the Forestry Directorate has planted groves of Austrian pine to help erosion control; in ten years these are already chest-high. Wild almond trees blossom with white flowers on the sunnier slopes. In shady corners of Mecidiye Fort, you can spot hawksbeard and oriental lily in season. On a hike, look down and you might spot the furry heads of endemic mice or the scurry of a steppe viper across bare earth.

Compared to a dense forest, the feel here is more “prairie of the mountains.” Gazing east from a ridge, you’ll see a patchwork of brown-yellow grasses, grey-green shrubs, and the occasional emerald outcrop of conifers. The undulating ground is dotted with the small limestone ridges that were quarried for building the forts. In late May, the air is heady with the scent of sage and verbena as you ascend the trails.

Hiking and Walking Trails in Nene Hatun National Park

The park has several waymarked hiking trails, though they are mostly simple footpaths rather than formal routes. Two popular loops are often recommended:

• The Rampart Loop (Easy, ~2 km): This circular trail starts at Aziziye I, goes around the back of Aziziye II and Aziziye III, then returns down the old trench to the starting point. It is mostly flat (altitude change <50 m) and takes about 45 minutes at a leisurely pace. Interpretive signs along the way explain the battle lines and point out sights. This is the ideal “history stroll” for families or casual visitors – half of the loop is inside the ruins, and half passes through the olive groves and picnic areas below.
• Victory Ridge Trail (Moderate, ~5 km): This longer hike runs from Aziziye I up over the crest of Top Dağı. It climbs to a hilltop north of the forts for panoramic views. The trail gains about 200 meters in elevation and can take 2–3 hours round-trip. Good walking shoes are recommended here as the terrain is rocky. The reward is a spectacular vista: a 360° panorama of Erzurum on one side and Palandöken ski peak on the other. Birdwatchers also like this trail, as it brings you near soaring raptors above the ridge in summer.

All trails are unpaved but well-trodden. Trail markers are green signs with white arrows. During the off-season (spring or fall rains), some sections can become slippery mud – trekking poles are useful. Always carry water (spring rains can leave taps dry after May). Wear sun protection, as there is little shade. On clear nights the parks fills with stars – if you camp nearby (campfires not permitted inside park), you can watch the Milky Way from these heights.

Flora and Fauna: Identifying the Biodiversity of the Erzurum Region

While not a biodiversity hotspot like a rainforest, the park does boast a range of Eastern Anatolian species adapted to high steppe life. Bird enthusiasts will spot Eurasian Hoopoes, various buntings and pipits, and perhaps a migrating raptor. Wild jackals are occasionally heard howling after dusk, and red foxes scurry across the open meadows at dawn. You may catch sight of a hare or even a fox on the fringes. Herpetologists note that stone lizards and steppe vipers bask on the rocks in summer (keep a safe distance). In forested patches there are good-sized grey wolves (hearing them is not uncommon), though encounters are very rare unless provoked.

Plants to note: aside from the grasses and herbs already mentioned, look for Turkish tortoisehead (Teucrium polium) carpets in bloom, and stands of Prunus divaricata (wild almond) bursting into white flowers in April. In autumn, rowan trees (uydak) turn crimson and provide berries for migrating birds. The park’s own research catalogues lists at least 400 species of plants in the broader region, including a few endemics. At higher altitudes (just above the park) the flora transitions to pine forest – but within the park it is mostly open and shrubby.

Picnicking and Leisure: The Best Spots for a Family Day Out

Nene Hatun Park is remarkably kid-friendly. There are several easy picnic spots near Aziziye I under the stands of young pines, complete with benches. Families often spread blankets on the grass here for lunch. Small children can roam part of the open square under the monument without danger of dropping off cliffs.

For a more active outing, bring a soccer ball or frisbee to the flat meadows east of Aziziye II – it’s a great place to let kids run off steam against the backdrop of the forts. Always keep an eye on them near the walls or steep embankments, of course. Many families plan 2–3 hours here with snacks and exploration; adventurous ones might make a day of it by also driving up to Mecidiye fort and having a barbecue picnic on its grounds (there are public grills at the base).

Is the Park Suitable for Children and Families? A Detailed Guide

Absolutely – with a little planning. The main paths and viewpoints are safe, and the narrative of Nene Hatun is inspiring for youngsters learning about courage. The visitors’ center offers child-size stools and can lend a child’s magnifying glass or binoculars. There is a small playground in a fenced area near the Aziziye entrance (swing set and slide) that was added in 2018.

However, parents should note: some areas (especially Aziziye II and III ramps) have steep drop-offs and uneven steps. Keep little ones on the marked trails. Also, the summer sun at altitude is strong – bring water and sunhats. There are no venomous snakes biting humans on record here, but a child should not put fingers or toes under rocks. In short, it’s a low-risk yet highly enriching environment – history classes and Sunday picnics meet in the middle at Nene Hatun Park.

Expanding Your Trip: Exploring Erzurum and its Surroundings

If you have extra days in the area, Erzurum offers a wealth of cultural and natural attractions:

Must-See Historical Sites in Erzurum City

• Çifte Minareli Medrese (Twin Minaret Madrasa): This 13th-century Seljuk school is Erzurum’s iconic landmark. Built in ornate stone and decorated with brick-inlaid patterns, it features two fluted minarets over its grand entrance portal. Originally erected (possibly for Sultan Alaeddin’s daughter, hence the name Hatunîye Medrese) around 1271, it now houses a small museum and art gallery. Don’t miss the calligraphy and tile work inside.
• Üç Kümbetler (Three Tombs): Near each other stand three domed tombs from roughly the late 12th to mid-14th centuries, said to be built for local emirs and nobles. The largest (Emir Saltuk’s, ca. 1200) has a striking brick façade of diamond patterns; the other two are smaller but still picturesque. Entry is free, and climbing the ladders inside some domes lets you peek at the sky through their oculi.
• Erzurum Castle and Ulu Cami: Right in the heart of Old Erzurum is the Ottoman-era Ulu Mosque (built 1179), which is the city’s grand mosque. Adjacent is a remnant of Erzurum Castle, whose walls date back millennia (Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman repairs overlap). The castle viewpoint (now partly park) gives a view of the city’s historic center. Don’t overlook the nearby stone Clock Tower (Saat Kulesi), an 18th-century octagonal tower rising above the bazaar.
• Çarsı Bazaar: For atmosphere, stroll through the Bedesten and Kapalı Çarşı, traditional indoor market halls near Ulu Cami. This is where locals buy woolen rugs, leather boots, copperware and the famous Erzurum lederhosen (Köpele). Even if not shopping, the covered alleys and tea houses give a feel for old Anatolian life.

Experiencing Local Culture: Cuisine and Crafts

• What to Eat: Erzurum cuisine is hearty. The must-try dish is Cağ Kebabı – horizontally stacked skewers of marinated lamb slowly grilled over wood fire. (Ask your waiter to slice it for you.) For dessert, try Kadayıf Dolması – thin pastry ribbons rolled around walnuts and fried, then drenched in syrup and topped with ice cream. Other local specialties include Kavut (toasted flour porridge) and Ayran Aşı (cold yogurt soup with wheat). Finally, for a unique dessert-lunch, order Erzurum Çöreği (a thick, sweet bread with cinnamon and sugar) and Yayla Çorbası (creamy yogurt soup with mint). Many cafes around the citadel serve these dishes.
• Where to Shop: Erzurum is famous for Oltu Stone jewelry – a smooth black jet named after the town of Oltu. You’ll see it carved into beads, bracelets, and hairpins. The city’s market near the citadel has several Oltu workshops; ask for a demonstration (the stone is soft when carved and hardens on exposure). Other souvenirs include wool carpets (the Caucasian Berak or Göle rugs from Ardahan) and embroidered tablecloths. For everyday goods, visit Erzurum’s Çift Han (an old caravanserai turned mall) which has both modern shops and ethnic craft stalls.

Day Trips from Erzurum

• Palandöken Mountain: In winter, Palandöken (45 km south of the city) is Turkey’s premier ski resort. It hosted the 2011 Winter Universiade. The resort has modern gondolas and 22 pistes, with the highest runs dropping from 3,176 m down to 2,200 m. In summer, the same slopes offer trekking and mountain biking – many locals hike to the panoramic Ejder Peak or even paraglide from the summit. A cable car ride up part of the way provides unbelievable views of Erzurum below.
• Tortum Waterfall and Lake: About 100 km north of Erzurum is the dramatic Tortum Waterfall. At 48 meters it is (historically) the tallest waterfall in Turkey, though today a dam diverts most of its flow. Still, in May and June, surplus water is released, and the falls thunder to life. A viewing platform and cavernous staircase allow visitors to stand behind the curtain of water – an unforgettable experience. Above the falls lies Tortum Lake, a narrow 8 km-long gorge lake created by a prehistoric landslide. A picnic area and a small lakeside café make for a pleasant half-day trip. The autumn foliage and geological formations around the lake are especially scenic.
• Other Excursions: If you have extra time, consider Narman Fairy Chimneys (about 85 km east) for weird red rock spires, or the Pasinler Dairsesi (an ancient Armenian monastery ruin 80 km away). The region is full of offbeat history and natural sights for adventurous travelers.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Are guided tours available for the park and forts?
Yes. Local travel agencies and hotels in Erzurum can arrange guided tours of Nene Hatun Park, often combined with other Erzurum highlights. Tours vary from simple historical walks to full-day packages. However, the park is also very walkable on its own with the information here. Entrance is free, and guides typically charge per group (you might also find English-speaking guides available). There is no official onsite guide bureau, but the visitor center staff can point you to licensed guides if you ask.

How much time should I allocate for a visit?
Plan for at least 2–3 hours to cover the main attractions. This allows for exploring Aziziye I (monuments and museum), walking the Aziziye I–III loop at a relaxed pace, and returning. If you also hike up to Mecidiye Fort, add another 1–2 hours. History buffs might linger longer reading every plaque and tracing the battlements. Families could spend a leisurely half-day (with a picnic) enjoying the entire park. In short, a minimum of 2 hours for a quick tour, or up to 5 hours for a thorough exploration.

Is the park accessible for people with disabilities?
Partially. The lower area around Aziziye I has paved ramps and is relatively flat, so visitors with limited mobility can see the tomb and monument. However, the forts themselves involve uneven ground, steps, and earthen ramps. Wheelchairs or strollers cannot easily reach Aziziye II or Mecidiye Fort. Caregivers should escort those with mobility challenges. Note that high altitude means some may fatigue more quickly. Seating is available at intervals.

Can I fly a drone in the park for photography?
No. Drone flights are not permitted in Nene Hatun National Park. This restriction is due to both safety (troops are still buried here as martyrs) and wildlife disturbance. The park is a protected area under the Ministry of Forestry, which maintains the ban. Violating this rule could result in confiscation of equipment or fines. Enjoy the scenery with your eyes and camera from the ground instead.

What should I wear when visiting?
Dress in layers. Even in summer, higher altitudes can be cool in the morning and evening. Wear sturdy walking shoes or hiking boots for trails – loose sandals are not advised on the uneven paths. A hat and sunscreen are recommended for sun protection; there is limited shade. If visiting in spring or fall, bring a light rain jacket and trousers to guard against thorns or grasses. In winter, heavy coat, warm hat, and waterproof boots are essential (and snow boots if you plan to venture onto snowy trails when open). There is no mandatory dress code, but remember this is a historical memorial site – modest attire is encouraged, especially for the mosque area at Mecidiye if you enter it (scarf for women’s heads, long sleeves/pants).

Are there any special events or commemorations held at the park?
Yes. The anniversary of the Aziziye victory (8 November) is often marked by local ceremonies, including wreath-laying at the monument. The Republic Day (29 October) and Victory Day (30 August) also see ceremonies here or in Erzurum generally. On these dates, you might find tents for tea, flag processions, and people in traditional costume. In early May, sometimes Mother’s Day events take place at Nene Hatun’s tomb. None of these events affect normal park opening hours, but you will find more crowds (especially local schoolchildren) on ceremony days.

Other tips: Don’t forget water and snacks – there are no restaurants up on the slopes except the small café. The city spring water is good (though it tastes like chlorine) – bottled water is available at the cafe. Visitors often bring a picnic lunch to enjoy at the lookout benches. Check local Erzurum weather before you go; sudden fog or snow squalls can roll in on Palandöken unexpectedly. Finally, allow some extra time on your drive back to Erzurum on Saturdays if you are leaving late afternoon – local traffic (people returning from hikes or ski weekends) can slow the road.