An Introduction to the Enigma of Kaymakli

Kaymakli Underground City (ancient Enegup) is one of Cappadocia’s most extraordinary subterranean sites. Carved from soft volcanic rock (tuff), this multi‑level city lies beneath the village of Kaymaklı, roughly 19 km south of Nevşehir in central Turkey. It was once a fully self‑contained underground settlement, with an intricate plan of halls, living rooms, storage cells, stables, churches and defensive works. Archaeologists estimate that Kaymaklı’s complex extends about 8 floors deep (about 40 m below ground), though only four of those floors are open to the public today. The site’s access passage descends through narrow, low‑ceilinged corridors into dimly lit chambers hewn from the pale beige rock.

Kaymaklı’s scale is one reason it has been called a must‑see marvel of ancient engineering. Over centuries, entire communities lived here beneath the earth. According to one guide, up to 6,000 people could take shelter inside. By comparison, nearby Derinkuyu Underground City extends much deeper (roughly 85 m) and could hold as many as 20,000 people. Yet Kaymaklı is unique for its wide layout and ingenious design. As travel writer Rick Steves notes, visitors will find “massive roll‑away‑stone doors, and ingenious ventilation shafts” among its features. These massive round stone doors could be rolled to seal off corridors in case of attack, and the vertical air shafts continue to supply fresh air to every level.

The history of Kaymaklı is woven into the broader tapestry of Cappadocia’s underground cities. This entire region of central Anatolia is a vast volcanic plateau whose ash deposits turned to soft rock. Erosion sculpted this landscape into valleys and fairy‑chimney pillars. In ancient times, the soft tuff made it possible for people to carve dwellings and hideaways. Over the centuries there emerged dozens of underground settlements in Cappadocia – indeed, some experts estimate 200 separate subterranean sites in the region. Among these, Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu are the two largest multi‑level cities discovered. UNESCO notes that in the early medieval period, local communities literally “began banding together into troglodyte villages or subterranean towns such as Kaymaklı or Derinkuyu which served as places of refuge”. In later centuries, the Byzantine inhabitants dug ever deeper and wider to escape invasion, effectively creating entire towns underground.

In short, Kaymaklı Underground City is both remarkable in size and steeped in history. Its name appears in the UNESCO listing for Göreme National Park and the Rock Sites of Cappadocia, a World Heritage site inscribed in 1985. Today it is one of Cappadocia’s top attractions, drawing travelers who are eager to experience a hidden “city” that few other places on Earth can match.

What Is Kaymakli Underground City? A First Glimpse into the Depths

Kaymaklı begins simply. The surface entrance looks unassuming – a modest gate on a hillside in a small village square – but it leads almost immediately downward into the rock. A steep descent of stone steps brings visitors into the first level. By modern custom this level is well‑lit with electric lights to help tourists find their way, but one quickly notices the spaces are crude and tight. The ceiling is only a little over head height, meaning most adults must duck. The walls are the same light ochre‑gray of tuff; tool marks from chisels are still visible in some places. At the first level, one finds rows of small stable stalls and storage rooms. Travel guides note that Level 1 was once home to a stable: one chamber once held pack animals or livestock. Just beyond the stable runs a narrow corridor with worn stone floors. On the far side of this corridor lies an array of family rooms and storage chambers. According to accounts, a huge circular millstone door could isolate the stable area, and an adjacent doorway leads into a hidden chapel. Indeed, archaeologists report that on the left side of the stable is a millstone that opens onto a church area, while on the right are rows of rooms that were likely living spaces.

Why Kaymakli Is a Must‑See Marvel of Ancient Engineering

From that initial view, the scale and ingenuity of Kaymaklı begin to become clear. This is not just a few caves but a planned community built deep underground. Its multi‑level layout is truly a feat of civil engineering. One immediately sees that the rooms are arranged around vertical air shafts – deep wells cut through the rock that ventilate the entire city. In fact, Rick Steves points out Kaymaklı’s “ingenious ventilation shafts” as a key feature. These shafts connect all floors and reach close to the surface, ensuring that fresh air circulates to even the lowest chambers. Thanks to this design, the subterranean city maintains a surprisingly constant atmosphere: while outside temperatures swing with the seasons, inside Kaymaklı stays cool in summer and above freezing in winter. Ancient occupants could breathe easily even when thousands of feet belowground.

Another extraordinary aspect is the defensive capability built right into the architecture. Throughout Kaymaklı are massive carved disks of rock (sometimes called “millstone doors”) that could be rolled to block off a corridor. Rick Steves describes them as “massive roll‑away‑stone doors”. These circular slabs sit in recessed tracks and could be turned to seal passages in an instant, trapping invaders behind them. In the event of attack – be it from armed raiders or wild animals – residents could shut themselves into one section of the city at a time, isolating the rest of the tunnels. Narrow, zig‑zag corridors and low ceilings also slow down any intruders. In short, the entire complex was built defensively from the bottom up.

Kaymaklı also impresses with its variety of specialized chambers. Carved into the rock one finds not just living rooms, but stables, cellars, kitchens, wineries and even a school. In fact, on Level 3 (the third floor) archaeologists have documented community facilities: a large wine press and olive press, communal ovens and kitchens, plus storerooms holding jars of oil and grain. One particularly remarkable find on level 3 is a single block of volcanic andesite stone, drilled with dozens of small holes. This block served as a massive copper smelting crucible. The travellers note that “[i]t has fifty‑seven little holes in the top of it for copper ore,” suggesting that Kaymaklı even had metalworking capabilities on site. This level was the heart of daily life underground: an area for food, drink, and industry.

Upper levels contain even more communal features. On Level 2, visitors encounter a carved underground church and burial areas. In one chamber is a chapel with a central nave and two apses (where altars stood), plus a stone baptismal font carved out of rock. Names can be seen scratched into the rock next to graves, indicating family plots. A vaulted stone ceiling arches overhead, and niches built into the walls once held oil lamps. The presence of this church tells us a great deal: for extended periods – especially during the Byzantine era – Christian families lived here and even practiced their faith deep underground.

Each level of Kaymaklı is organized around those ventilation shafts, ensuring that every corner of this “city below the city” received light and air. Only four floors of the eight are open today, but one can still see the interrupted shafts above or below, cut into every room. Modern tours typically ascend and descend via the same ramp, but historically each of the eight levels had narrow sloping staircases connecting to the others. Below Level 4, the remaining floors are off‑limits to tourists, partly for safety but also because they have been left filled with debris.

A Brief Overview of Cappadocia’s Underground Cities

Kaymakli did not exist in isolation. It is part of a vast system of underground settlements in the Cappadocian plateau. To appreciate its significance, one must realize how many such complexes are in the region. According to a specialist travel journal, “nobody knows for sure, but there are about 200 underground cities, settlements and cave complexes in Cappadocia”. Of those, at least 30–40 qualify as full multi‑level cities, of which Derinkuyu and Kaymakli are the largest. These sites span hundreds of square kilometers of central Turkey.

Why so many? The answer lies in a combination of geology and history. Cappadocia’s soft rock made large scale carving possible (UNESCO describes the volcanic plateau as “sculpted by erosion” with extensive underground cities), while its strategic location on the edge of various empires made those caves useful hiding places. During the Byzantine era, especially in the 7th–9th centuries AD, Muslim Arab armies raided deep into Anatolia. To escape these invasions, Christian villagers retreated below ground. UNESCO explicitly notes that in those later periods, locals “banded together into … subterranean towns such as Kaymaklı or Derinkuyu which served as places of refuge”. Thus, entire communities lived in these dark chambers – worshipping, working and even teaching their children – until the danger passed above.

After the Arab-Byzantine wars, the underground cities continued to be useful. When the Seljuk Turks conquered the region in the late 11th century, the remaining Greek Orthodox (Rum) inhabitants still turned to Kaymaklı and its sisters whenever tensions flared. During Ottoman rule this practice persisted; in fact a British writer recorded that when news of massacres in the plains (the Adana massacres of 1909) reached Cappadocia, “a great part of the population…took refuge in these underground chambers, and for some nights did not venture to sleep above ground”. Only in the 20th century did the villages finally abandon the practice. In 1923 the official population exchange between Greece and Turkey led to Kaymaklı’s residents (ethnic Greeks) being relocated to Greece, after which the tunnels were largely deserted.

Today, Kaymaklı’s ancient chambers have been cleared and some reconstructed for visitors. The site was first opened to the public in 1964, after decades of piecemeal excavation. Since then it has been a major tourist attraction. Generations of Cappadocian villagers have long told stories of their underground city, but it is the methodical archaeological and preservation work of the late 20th century that turned Kaymaklı into the remarkable museum it is now.

The Unforgettable Experience: What It’s Really Like to Explore Kaymakli

Visiting Kaymaklı is an adventure into another world – quiet, cool and profoundly still. The tour begins at a modern entrance building at ground level, but within a few steps you are underground. A sturdy lamp or smartphone flash may be needed, though the main routes are now fitted with subdued electric lights. After descending a flight of steps, you emerge into the first level’s corridor. The first impression is one of compactness: the tunnel is only about shoulder-width wide, with a vaulted ceiling perhaps five feet (1.5 m) above the floor. It feels like walking into a stone cave tunnel. The floor is uneven, made of flat stones and packed dirt.

Fig. 1: A corridor on the first level of Kaymaklı, showing how narrow and low the tunnels are. Rough‑hewn chambers line the passage, which is lit by sparse bulbs overhead. (Photo credit: Ray Swi-hymn/Creative Commons)

To the left and right of this passage are the stables and living quarters. Low doorways lead into little rooms that once sheltered animals and people alike. One sees carved troughs along the walls where animals ate hay, and cubbyholes where settlers stored grain or household goods. In the first room you pass, the ceiling is supported by a rock-cut column at its center – evidence that sometimes pillar‑like supports were left to prevent collapse. Graffiti from more recent decades may appear on the walls; local guides kindly remind tourists not to add any. As you walk by, it is easy to imagine rows of donkeys and sheep in these stalls, quietly enduring the centuries. The air here is surprisingly fresh and only slightly cooler than outside (the ventilation shafts doing their work). Although you can hear your footsteps echo, there is a peaceful hush – no stray drafts, no dripping water, just a quiet that is almost reverent.

Leaving the first room, the corridor forks around a large stone wheel. This is one of the cylindrical doors that was used to block off the chambers in case of emergency. Today it is fixed in place and open, but in ancient times inhabitants could pivot it closed to seal up a section. Here at level 1 the millstone door leads into what was a church area. Inside, one can just make out a shallow carved basin (the baptismal font) and niches in the walls where candles or icon stands stood. Stone benches line the walls. This little chapel is stark but thoughtfully laid out: even hundreds of meters underground, the space is oriented like any small church, with attention to symmetry. Above it is low and rounded; all around one feels intimately connected to the people who hid here.

Descending Deeper: Narrow Passages and Steep Staircases

The tour path soon turns and drops you further down. A ramp and ladder take you to Level 2, where the spaces open into a slightly larger network. At this level (about 10–15 m below ground), one enters what looks like a small foyer. Sunlight is very faint or non‑existent now; artificial lights cast a soft yellow glow that reflects off the tuff walls. All around are doorways leading into chambers. Walking here, you gain a real sense of vertical layering: you can look up into grill‑covered vent shafts, and down into taller rooms with steps going further down. The lack of natural light and the silence gives the feeling of moving through an anthill. Even though only a few people might be in each tour group, the echo means voices carry; groups often whisper to avoid disturbing echoes.

To traverse the levels, visitors climb stone staircases carved into the rock. These steps are uneven in height, worn in places by generations of feet, and often quite steep. Travel writers note that the ceilings get progressively lower with depth – at level 3 and 4, some tunnels force one to stoop significantly. Indeed, a common warning given is for tall people to mind their heads. One blog advises tall visitors to “keep that head down!” as “low ceilings can be a challenge”. In practice, a person around 6 feet (1.8 m) tall must bend nearly at every turn to avoid bruising their crown. Patience and a bit of agility help – you learn to move diagonally through tight spots and watch where each ceiling block juts down. At times the air temperature drops by a degree or two with each level, and the humidity rises; you may feel a light chill and a fresh scent of stone.

From the staircases one goes further downward, eventually reaching Level 4, the deepest reachable by tourists. Here the passages broaden slightly but remain compact. In the furthest rooms of level 4, some parts of the ceiling are only a few feet above the floor. Yet even here the builders left benches and wall columns. The experience is of gradually stepping back in time – the artifacts are silent but present in the carved walls and niches. At any moment, you half-expect to see a leftover olive jar or tool.

Fig. 2: On a lower level of Kaymaklı, a wider chamber opens up. Overhead lie rock ceilings carved into arch shapes. The floors of these rooms were cut to be level (covered in mortar or clay). No original wood or furniture remains, but one can see where benches and altars once stood. (Photo credit: Ray Swi-hymn/Creative Commons)

In summary, exploring Kaymaklı is an intimate, physical experience. The effect is somewhat like watching a play unfold in darkness with hints of life around each corner. An individual tour lasts typically 30–60 minutes through the open galleries (some visitors report about a half‑hour to go one way)【85††】. It is not a casual strolling museum; one is mostly bent over or crouching, climbing steps and moving carefully. But it is captivating: each turn reveals another meticulously arranged suite of rooms, so that one marvels again and again at the fact that these were hewn out of rock by hand.

Is Kaymakli Underground City Claustrophobic? A Realistic Guide for Visitors

One common concern is whether Kaymaklı is too tight or dark for comfort. It is certainly confined, and not all people feel at ease here. Signs at the entrance often advise caution for those with mobility or breathing issues. During the tour, most people are aware of the low ceilings and adjust by stooping. However, for someone with claustrophobia or anxiety about tight spaces, Kaymaklı may be challenging. In fact, one Q&A guide bluntly warns: “Kaymaklı may not be suitable for people who have claustrophobia as the tunnels can be narrow and confined.” There are tight squeezes even between rooms.

That said, not everyone finds it unbearable. Many visitors acclimate by taking deep breaths and moving slowly. The presence of electric light helps a great deal; it is never pitch black, since soft bulbs illuminate the main path. Guides often keep the group moving at a gentle pace, avoiding any one spot for too long. There is always a visible exit ramp going back up, which some find reassuring. In short, it is not an amusement‑park thrill but a serious subterra exploration. If you are prone to panic, you may want to start near the entrance and try one level first. Many who hesitate become fascinated once they see how each level opens up. The cool air is generally refreshing rather than stale, thanks to those vents. A little patience usually overcomes initial discomfort.

For comparison, Derinkuyu Underground City (another Cappadocian complex) has wider galleries on its upper floors, which some find marginally more comfortable. But Derinkuyu is also deeper (requiring about 8 flights of stairs to go down) and can be similarly narrow in spots. In other words, none of these underground cities is truly “comfortable” by modern standards. A helpful tip is to breathe slowly, carry water, and concentrate on the details of each room to distract from the enclosing stone. Both novice and experienced subterranean tourists generally agree: at worst it is stifling; at best it is an exhilarating immersion.

A Sensory Experience: The Air, the Sounds, and the Atmosphere Below Ground

The atmosphere under Kaymaklı is unlike anywhere above. The air feels cool and slightly humid; one sense of the design is that it holds moisture for food storage. Unlike open caves, there is virtually no dust falling, so the environment is fairly clean. Sounds carry. In silence, you hear your shoes on the stone, your own breathing, the faint drip of condensation. Voices echo, so even soft speech lingers briefly. There is no wind at these depths, so even though you might be far from the entrance, the air does not feel stale. Instead, it has a faint earthy smell of limestone and old stone. The rock surface is cool to the touch.

Lighting is subdued: lamps strung on the walls throw gentle illumination. Orange or yellow bulbs cast a warm light pool on floors, leaving some corners dimmer. Flashlights are not strictly needed on the marked path, but many experienced visitors advise bringing a small torch or headlamp. This personal light lets you see details: carvings on columns, etchings in alcoves, or the deep red wine stain that still coats the stone depressions where grapes once sat. Families with children especially bring extra lights – kids (and grownups) enjoy shining a beam down an untouched side tunnel.

Overall, the mood is one of quiet awe. It can feel eerie yet serene. There are no pests or animals down here now – only the ghost of human life. Every once in a while, groups pause; one hears only the gentle sound of distant voices and walking. The design of the city is so efficient and so human‑scaled that one imagines everyday life: a woman preparing a meal in one corner while her neighbor prays in the chapel. The absence of such figures makes the experience both thrilling and introspective.

Essential Tips for a Safe and Enjoyable Visit

• Wear comfortable clothing and shoes. Dress in layers, as underground is cool. Sturdy closed shoes with good grip are highly recommended. Sandals or heels are ill‑advised; you will want soles that prevent slipping on the stone and steps. A light jacket might be needed even on hot days, since temperatures underground hover around 15–18°C year‑round. Avoid loose scarves or items that can snag on rock.
• Carry a flashlight or headlamp. Though Kaymaklı has basic lighting, it’s helpful to have your own light. A small LED torch (and spare batteries) can make it easier to read inscriptions or see into dim side chambers.
• Mind your head. As noted, tall individuals will need to crouch in many spots. Always look up before moving forward, and progress slowly through any very low arched tunnels. Watch your step on the uneven floors.
• Stay hydrated. Bring a water bottle. While the air is cool, climbing up and down stairs will make you sweat. A quick sip after finishing a few levels feels great.
• Respect the site. Touch nothing. These rock surfaces and any remaining carvings are fragile. It’s best to walk carefully and avoid leaning or pulling on any walls. The city’s preservation depends on each visitor’s care.
• Stay on the marked path. Do not venture off the tourist route. Some passages not visited by tourists can be dangerously low or blocked with debris. Follow the arrows and steps as directed.
• Consider a guide. Knowledgeable guides are available at the entrance and can greatly enrich your visit. They explain how each level was used and recount the oral histories of the villagers. Even a 30‑minute briefing before descending can make the underground scenes more comprehensible. If on a tour group, however, the route is straightforward enough to follow independently.

The Epic History of Kaymakli: From Hittite Origins to Modern Discovery

Kaymaklı’s roots stretch far back into ancient Anatolia. The earliest excavations likely date to 8th–7th centuries BC under the Phrygians, an Indo‑European people of the Iron Age. The Turkish Ministry of Culture suggests that the cave complex may have begun as simple dwellings around the time of the Phrygian Kingdom. Some local lore and travel writers even speculate older origins: Rick Steves reports that “much of Kaymaklı was originally dug in Hittite times – over 1000 years before Christ”. Whether Hittites in the 2nd millennium BC or Phrygians in the 1st millennium BC first carved these chambers, what is clear is that the first settlers chose this site well. Volcanic tuff, once wet ash from ancient eruptions, had hardened enough to hold shape yet was still soft enough to chip away by hand. The early tunnels were likely small cave homes or storage pits that were later expanded.

The First Inhabitants: The Phrygians and the Earliest Excavations (8th–7th Centuries BC)

Cappadocia’s prehistoric societies left behind rock carvings and shallow caves, but substantial development of Kaymaklı may have begun in the Iron Age. The Phrygians, who ruled central Anatolia in the 8th–7th centuries BC, may have carved initial chambers into the hillside. These early residents would have dug simple rooms to store grain and protect livestock. Indeed, the stable on level 1 is still identifiable, with feeding troughs still etched in stone, and it is likely that iterations of this stable existed in some form many centuries ago.

Whether the Phrygians created this city directly or merely began an excavation that later peoples expanded, the strategic advantage of underground living was evident. Early farmers and pastoralists could retreat to these caves during invasions or severe weather. Over the centuries, each wave of inhabitants enlarged the spaces. The Greeks and Persians that followed the Phrygians appear to have done some work here (note the village’s name evolved from Enegup to Kaymaklı under later Turkish rule, but older Greek inscriptions have been found nearby).

The Byzantine Era: A Haven for Christians Fleeing Persecution

By the early Common Era, as the Roman Empire divided, the region became part of the Eastern Roman (Byzantine) realm. During this time Kaymaklı’s tunnels were significantly deepened and fortified. The threat in these centuries came from the south and east: as Islam spread, Arab armies often raided into Cappadocia. From roughly the 7th through the 12th centuries, these raids were frequent. Communities would gather inside the caves for months at a time, taking nothing with them except what they could carry.

The city was heavily expanded during this Byzantine period. Walls of carved stone were set up to divide living spaces, and ventilation was carefully engineered. Entire chapels and baptisteries were fashioned to accommodate an underground liturgy. One source notes, “the city was greatly expanded and deepened in the Byzantine era, for protection from Muslim Arab raids (780–1180)”. In effect, Kaymaklı became a hidden fortress. Byzantine-period artifacts found there (pottery sherds, coins, crosses) date mainly from the 5th to the 10th centuries, suggesting the city’s heyday aligned with the era of Arab‑Byzantine conflict.

During the 11th and 12th centuries, the Byzantine threat of invasion shifted as the Seljuk Turks moved into Anatolia. Nevertheless, the traditions of taking refuge underground endured. By then, Christianity was deeply rooted in local culture, and the underground church at Kaymaklı was well used. Visitors to the site see multiple carved crosses and names of saints inscribed in Greek alphabet. In short, Kaymaklı served as a subterranean town for Greek‑speaking Christians hiding from one invading force, and then from another (the Seljuks).

The Arab‑Byzantine Wars and the Expansion of Kaymakli

A pivotal era was the Arab‑Byzantine Wars, roughly between 780 and 1180 AD. In those centuries, Cappadocia was on the frontier between the Byzantine Empire and the Umayyad/Abbasid caliphates. Armies would sweep through, but retreating villagers would vanish into the underground cities. According to the World Heritage description, locals eventually “began banding together into troglodyte villages or subterranean towns such as Kaymaklı… which served as places of refuge”. Archaeological layers from this time show that the tunnels were dug deeper and branched out widely. Some carved wine presses and oil stores date from this period, indicating that inhabitants planned to live and farm underground for extended periods.

By the late Byzantine period, the capacity of Kaymaklı had reached its peak. It was large enough to shelter entire villages. Interestingly, even during safer times, people lived in the upper floors as their normal homes. The entrance floor of Kaymaklı is essentially part of the old village, with a few buildings built atop some of the tunnels. This pattern – village above, caves below – continued until the 20th century.

Religious Life Underground: The Churches and Chapels of Kaymakli

The existence of carved churches on multiple floors shows how integral faith was to the community. Along with the main church on level 2, archaeologists have identified chapels on other levels as well. Level 1 has what is believed to be the very oldest Christian church there, though it’s mostly subterranean. On level 2 one sees a relatively large church with two rock‑cut apses. On the walls of these chapels remain painted crosses and tiny niches where icons may have stood. Inscriptions next to graves suggest families claimed specific burial plots near the church. Even the smallest rooms in the complex often have carvings of crosses or prayer texts. In short, each level of Kaymaklı has at least one consecrated area.

The continued presence of these churches suggests an ongoing liturgical life underground. When a family took refuge in Kaymaklı during raids, they did not abandon their cultural practices. Weekly Sunday services would have been celebrated here, candles lit in the chapels. Food from level 3 storerooms would be brought up to serve everyone. It is conceivable that for months a village existed almost entirely below ground, with a bishop or priest living among them to conduct worship. Such faith‑based use continued well after the main military threats had passed; even up through the 12th century, local tradition held that Kaymaklı had such underground sanctuaries.

The Seljuk and Ottoman Periods: Continued Use as a Refuge

After the Byzantines, the region fell to various Turkish emirates and then the Ottomans. For local Greeks (Rum) who remained Christian under the Muslim authorities, Kaymaklı and other underground cities still offered occasional sanctuary. Ottoman records show that in dangerous times (e.g. raids in the 17th–19th centuries, or local unrest) villagers would leave by day and descend at night. As late as the early 20th century, the tradition persisted. A British scholar, Richard Dawkins, documented that in 1909, villagers near Kaymaklı took refuge there when news of the massacres in Adana reached them. Dawkins wrote: “when news came of the recent massacres at Adana, a great part of the population… took refuge in these underground chambers, and for some nights did not venture to sleep above ground”. This testimonial shows that even then, Kaymaklı’s caves were more than relics – they were a living option for survival.

However, by the end of Ottoman rule, such use was dwindling. The Christian population in Cappadocia was declining under Ottoman pressures. Finally, the 1923 population exchange uprooted all Orthodox Greeks from Turkey. With the village emptied of its traditional inhabitants (who were sent to Greece), Kaymaklı’s tunnels fell silent. The Greeks had been the final keepers of these underground practices, and with them gone, the caves lost their living community. For a few decades they were used locally as stables or storerooms (even Turkish villagers kept chickens in the tunnels). But large‑scale exploration and restoration did not begin until the mid-20th century.

The 20th Century: Population Exchange and Rediscovery

In the decades after 1923, Kaymaklı was mostly forgotten by the wider world. Occasional villagers would light fires for warmth, but no community lived permanently underground. The caves survived largely intact, but locals regarded them as inconvenient cool cellars rather than tourist sites. The breakthrough came in the 1960s, spurred by the discovery of Derinkuyu Underground City (in 1963) which created a surge of interest. Archaeologists from Turkey and abroad began mapping the tunnels of Kaymaklı. By 1964, the upper floors had been cleaned out and wooden steps installed, allowing the first visitors to walk the corridors. Since then Kaymaklı has been methodically excavated and preserved. Guided tours were introduced, signage erected, and supporting structures (like the entrance building) were constructed.

Today’s visitor walks nearly the same route as would have been used by the final inhabitants, but in modern shoes and with electric lights. Remnants of the past remain on the walls and floors. If you step lightly, you can still see in level 2 faint carvings around the church, or in level 1 the depressions where animals once stood. Yet most artifacts (pots, lamps, tools) have been removed for safety and display in museums. What remains is the carved stone itself. Tourists tread on history – every inch of wall and floor here was touched by human hands long ago. In this way, Kaymaklı Underground City is a remarkably direct link to its past occupants, and a testament to their ingenuity and resilience.

Architectural Marvels and Ingenious Design

Kaymaklı’s construction is a triumph of ancient architecture and engineering, tailored to its unique geology and defensive needs. Here we examine the key structural and design elements that make this place extraordinary.

Carved from Tuff: The Unique Geology of Cappadocia

The very existence of Kaymaklı would have been impossible without Cappadocia’s geology. Millions of years ago, eruptions from now‑extinct volcanoes blanketed this region with layers of ash. Over time the ash compacted into a soft, porous rock called tuff. Wind and water then sculpted the landscape into dramatic cliffs and hoodoos. From this soft stone, generations of inhabitants could carve vast underground networks. UNESCO describes the area as a “volcanic landscape sculpted by erosion,” noting that Cappadocia’s famed fairy chimneys and underground cities are hallmarks of a soft volcanic plateau.

Tuff is relatively easy to cut with hand tools, yet it can support large excavations once those tunnels are sealed. In Kaymaklı, the builders took full advantage. The main corridors are up to 4–5 meters high in places (cut through in one sweeping arch), and halls span 6–8 meters across. All of this is hewn entirely from one contiguous rock mass – there are no piles of fallen debris anywhere. The rock chips were hauled out and probably reused to level floors or thrown into ventilation shafts. Carving into tuff also allowed for rapid expansion. Travel accounts note that Kaymaklı could have added even more rooms if needed, as the rock is very cooperative to human shaping. The result is an undulating but coherent construction, where one feels the uniform texture of the stone under every fingertip. Importantly, tuff retains humidity well, which helped preserve stored grains and kept temperatures stable.

A City in Layers: The Eight Floors of Kaymakli (and the Four You Can Visit)

Kaymaklı is built in layers, one atop another, with each level organized as a self‑contained village. In total the city has eight known floors, though only the upper four are open to the public. Each of the eight floors serves a distinct function:

• Level 1 (Ground Floor): The entrance level of the underground city. This floor is dominated by the stables and animal pens. The stable area is notable for its stone troughs and partitions. On the left side, a millstone door leads into an older church chamber. On the right are several dwelling rooms and storage cupboards. Visitors will notice the floor is dug down about a meter in parts: the animal area is recessed to accommodate livestock. Because of this lowered floor, the ceiling over the stable section appears higher than in adjacent living rooms. This suggests animals may have been housed on this level primarily, and that additional stables might have existed below even deeper floors. The entire level is roughly arranged around a ventilation shaft, visible as a round hole in the floor, through which air and possibly water circulated.
• Level 2: This is the most sacred level, with the main underground church. The corridor leads into a rectangular hall carved into the rock. At one end are two arched apses; at the other is a rock-cut wall forming the sanctuary. In between stand a stone table and a carved baptismal font. The walls hold simple carvings of crosses. Alongside the church are tomb niches cut into the walls. Many of these niches are inscribed with names – likely family names – indicating the practice of burying the dead within the underground city itself. The presence of church benches (carved low stone benches flanking the walls) shows that people sat here for worship. This level also has broad living and working chambers; one large room at level 2 has benches and was possibly a communal meeting hall.
• Level 3: The heart of daily life. On this floor are kitchens, storage rooms, and workshops. One can still see recessed hearths carved into the floor for cooking fires. Adjacent to these fires are stone-lined bread ovens. Scattered around are niches used as storage cupboards. Of particular note is a wide clearing containing a large andêsite stone block – that unusual copper-smelting pot mentioned earlier. Near this block lie a pair of squared‑off pits, each about 1 meter deep – the remains of an underground oil press and wine press, used to produce olive oil and wine for the settlers. Rows of clay storage jars in alcoves (or their scars on the floor) indicate that cereals and olives were kept here in quantity. In short, level 3 was where food was prepared and preserved for the entire population.
• Level 4: The topmost “lower” floor accessible to tourists. It has granary and additional storage rooms. The layout here is a series of hallways with dozens of carved niches along the walls. According to reports, the numbers of jars and silos indicated a large food reserve – “the level is an indication of certain economic stability” for the village. There is also evidence of bakeries: grooves in the floors correspond to grinding mortar (for grain), and several vaulted stone ovens stand intact. Because this level lies just below the village, it probably served as both larder and shelter area for times of crisis.

(Above these, levels 5–8 are sealed to tourists. Excavators know that they exist, but they are mostly collapse zones. Ladders and ropes have been found suggesting occasional use, but as of now no safe route has been opened further down. In effect, Kaymaklı is closed off at level 4 for visitors, leaving the lower four as an archaeological “cap” of sorts.)

The Lifeline of the City: The Remarkable Ventilation System

One of Kaymaklı’s most impressive engineering feats is its ventilation network. Vertical shafts were sunk from the top levels down to the lowest floors, ensuring fresh air reached every chamber. These vents appear simply as round holes or chimney-like pillars in the ceilings. As a result, the temperature below stays uniformly mild, and the air feels surprisingly fresh, even far from the entrance. Local guidebooks describe this as a “sophisticated ventilation network”. In ancient times, it is said that inhabitants would minimize candle use precisely because the shafts provided sufficient daylight and airflow.

The largest vents are visible on level 1 – wide circular shafts that open onto the surface of the citadel, cleverly concealed by the fortress walls above. Smaller vents branch off to each lower level. Every chamber we see in the four accessible floors is centered on a vent opening. This arrangement means any closed door still allowed air to pass around it. It’s essentially an ancient air‑conditioning system: in effect, the city “breathes” as wind flows down one shaft and up another. Guides often point this out as evidence of planning: “The city has a unique ventilation system… allowing fresh air to circulate throughout the underground complex”.

Today, these shafts serve as emergency access points and tourist “selfie spots”. One can stand under a grate and feel a faint breeze from above. Historically, though, they would have been sealed or screened to prevent bugs or snakes, and to channel air quietly.

A Fortress Below Ground: Rolling Stone Doors and Defensive Strategies

From top to bottom, Kaymaklı was built as a refuge in a hostile world. The architects incorporated multiple layers of defense into the rock. We have already mentioned the giant round stone doors. There are eight of these in total, each one about 1.2–1.5 meters in diameter and over a meter thick. When positioned in place, one of these disks fully fills a corridor cross-section, and can only be opened or closed from one side. The passageways where they sit are deliberately made very narrow so that an intruder cannot push the door from the inside – only those on the “safe” side could roll it. The tour route passes through at least two of these historic doors, now fixed open. One can still see the recessed track in the floor and the groove in the ceiling where the stone sat.

Beyond the doors, the floor plan itself is maze‑like (though the term “labyrinth” is not accurate by modern archaeology standards). Long corridors serpent through blockades of columns. The tunnels zigzag so that no straight line of sight crosses more than a few meters. Towers of stone columns create chokepoints. A common tactic is that invaders who break through one door would emerge into a small chamber and then be forced to turn sharply into another tunnel, exposing them to defenders hiding around the corner.

These defensive features are especially evident on levels 3 and 4, which were deeper “living quarters.” Here tunnels branch off unpredictably. Armed villagers could retreat to inner sections, closing each door behind them. At the very center of the complex, around level 4, is what might be called a keep or final refuge – a place with multiple doors backing onto a ventilation shaft. In a siege, families would huddle here until danger passed, drawing their last water from a deep well shaft.

The Connection to Derinkuyu: The 9 km Underground Tunnel

A long‑standing mystery of Kaymaklı is its link to the nearby Derinkuyu Underground City. According to archaeological surveys, there is a network of passages connecting the two sites. The distance on the map is about 8–9 kilometers, and indeed Wikipedia notes that Kaymaklı was “connected with the Derinkuyu underground city through 8–9 km of tunnels”. That is an enormous engineering undertaking.

This connection is only partially explored. A small section of tunnel between Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu has been cleared and examined, showing how truly sprawling these systems were. It is likely that a complete linking tunnel existed, but much of it is still filled with soil and inaccessible without major excavation. If fully opened, visitors could theoretically walk from Kaymaklı to Derinkuyu entirely underground. For now, however, tours treat each city as separate attractions. The knowledge of this tunnel underscores just how ambitious the ancient builders were: two villages literally chose to engineer an underground highway between them.

A Head-to-Head Comparison: Kaymakli vs Derinkuyu

Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu are the two titans of Cappadocian subterranean architecture. Both were hidden towns created for survival, but each has its own profile. Below we compare their key characteristics.

Size and Depth: Which Underground City is Bigger?

Derinkuyu’s claim to fame is depth. It reaches about 85 meters below ground – that is nearly four times the depth of Kaymaklı’s public levels. Derinkuyu has at least 8 fully excavated levels (some reports say up to 18 total levels, but usually 8 are open), and could shelter an estimated 20,000 people. It even contains stables, churches and ventilation shafts of its own. In contrast, Kaymaklı is generally wider in horizontal spread rather than vertical. It extends over a large area under the village (several square kilometers by some estimates), but only about 40 meters deep for its lowest tunnels. Its total eight levels are shallower; only four were discovered and made accessible. One recent guide puts Kaymaklı’s population capacity around 6,000 people – roughly a third of Derinkuyu’s.

In practical terms, a visitor will notice Derinkuyu as more vertical – a series of steep staircases descending further down – and Kaymaklı as more horizontal, with long flat corridors on each level. If one sought sheer size, Derinkuyu wins for depth. For volume of accessible space, Kaymaklı is more sprawling on each floor.

Layout and Structure: Key Architectural Differences

Architecturally, Kaymaklı’s tunnels are narrower and lower than those at Derinkuyu. The Wikipedia account explicitly notes that Kaymaklı tunnels are “lower, narrower, and more steeply inclined” compared to Derinkuyu. In practice, this means Kaymaklı’s corridors feel tighter. Derinkuyu’s passages are often higher and slightly broader – one frequently walks upright with headroom in Derinkuyu, whereas Kaymaklı may require more stooping. The tunnels in Kaymaklı also tend to slope more steeply between levels, making the descent feel sharper.

Another difference is in planning. Kaymaklı’s rooms are very systematically arranged around ventilation shafts. In contrast, Derinkuyu’s plan is a bit more linear on some levels. For instance, at Derinkuyu the first floor has a long central corridor with offshoots, whereas Kaymaklı’s first floor is organized with stables on one side and living cells on the other. Kaymaklı’s Level 3 is notably a large open area with workshops, whereas in Derinkuyu the third floor has many small storerooms and winery presses in more compact niches. Both cities have churches, but Kaymaklı’s church on level 2 is quite prominent and open, while Derinkuyu has multiple chapels scattered. One might say Kaymaklı’s design is a bit more “deliberate” with distinct neighborhoods (stable zone, church zone, storage zone), whereas Derinkuyu feels more maze‑like with the mixing of functions on each level.

The Visitor Experience: Which One Should You Choose?

Both Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu are worth seeing, and many travelers visit both on a day trip. Yet each offers a slightly different experience:

• For the Claustrophobic Visitor: Kaymaklı’s passages are generally tighter. If narrow spaces bother you, Derinkuyu might be slightly easier, since some of its tunnels are taller. However, neither city is free of narrow stretches. A guide once warned that Kaymaklı “may not be suitable for people who have claustrophobia” due to the confined tunnels. Derinkuyu has wider chambers but also very steep stairwells (which can be anxiety‑inducing in their own way). In short, both sites are underground – a visit requires at least some comfort with enclosed spaces.
• For the History Buff: Derinkuyu is deeper and has some unique features (such as a large missionary well in the center and multiple floors beyond Kaymaklı’s reach). It also includes a church and school on its tenth level. Kaymaklı’s history is equally rich, but it is “the widest,” carrying a village’s population. If you have a keen interest in how people managed everyday life underground, Kaymaklı’s sprawling workshops and dining areas may impress more. Those fascinated by raw engineering might lean toward Derinkuyu’s monumental vertical scale. Both sites display sophisticated design – you can’t go wrong.
• For Those Short on Time: Kaymaklı is generally quicker to tour because it has fewer floors. A self‑guided visit might be done in 30–45 minutes【85††】, whereas to fully appreciate Derinkuyu often takes an hour or more (especially with a guide, or if one goes all the way down and back up). Visitors usually allocate a couple of hours for Derinkuyu. If your schedule is tight, plan one major underground city per day.
• Guided Tour vs. Solo: Both sites offer on‑site guides. For Kaymaklı, guides are easier to come by and tend to emphasize local legends about the city. At Derinkuyu, tours often cover Biblical and Byzantine history more extensively. If you speak Turkish or want context in your own language, a private guide can be arranged. Otherwise, entry is by ticket and you can walk freely.

Can You Visit Both in One Day? A Sample Itinerary

Yes, Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu are only about 9 km apart as the crow flies (or through those hidden tunnels). Many travelers do a loop: for example, leave Göreme by 9 AM, arrive at Kaymaklı by 10, spend about 1 hour underground, then drive or take a tour bus to Derinkuyu by noon. Spend the afternoon exploring Derinkuyu (60–90 minutes inside), and then return to Göreme by 4 PM. This schedule even allows for a late lunch or a brief rest between visits. If you hire a car or taxi, the drive between the two is only 15 minutes. If using public transport, make sure to check Dolmuş (minibus) schedules in advance – some local tours handle the logistics of moving between the sites.

Combining them this way lets you see both without rushing one. Of course, any tour package that includes one city may easily be extended to include the other, since guides and buses typically serve both. In short, yes: see Kaymaklı in the morning and Derinkuyu in the afternoon (or vice versa), and you’ll have a full day of Cappadocian underground magic.

Planning Your Visit to Kaymakli Underground City: A Practical Guide

Getting to Kaymakli from Key Cappadocian Towns

• By Car: Kaymaklı is well‑signposted from Nevşehir and the nearby towns. From Nevşehir city (the provincial capital), follow the Nevşehir–Niğde highway south for about 19 km, then take the turn toward Kaymaklı Underground City. If coming from Göreme or Ürgüp, you would first drive to Nevşehir (both towns are about 20–25 km away), then follow the same route. The roads are generally paved and in good condition. Rental cars are common in the region; GPS navigation or a reliable map will point you to “Kaymaklı Yeraltı Şehri.” Parking at the site is ample and free.
• By Public Transport (Bus/Dolmuş): Kaymaklı can be reached by local minibuses. First, take a dolmuş (minibus) from Göreme or Ürgüp to Nevşehir (these run frequently from early morning). The ride is about 30 minutes and costs a few Turkish lira. Once in Nevşehir, transfer to another minibus heading to Kaymaklı. These run regularly during the day; the trip is about 30 minutes. Let the driver know you want “Kaymaklı Underground City” and they will drop you near the entrance. One traveler tips: minibuses in this area are known to be “reliable and affordable”, so this is a budget-friendly option. Note that on weekends or holidays the schedule may be lighter, so plan accordingly.
• By Taxi: For convenience, taxis can go directly from Göreme, Ürgüp or Nevşehir to Kaymaklı. A one‑way taxi from Göreme to Kaymaklı (about 25 km) takes roughly 30 minutes. Estimates place the fare around 90–120 Turkish Lira (~$5–8 USD). This is more expensive than the bus but may be worth it for a small group or a direct trip on your timetable. Taxis are plentiful at major hotels and around the tourist towns; you may arrange one through your hotel or at a taxi stand. Always agree on the price or insist on using the meter.

Kaymakli Underground City Tours: Are They Worth It?

Kaymaklı is often offered as part of Cappadocia’s guided tours. It’s commonly included in the so‑called “Blue Tour” (which focuses on the southern valleys). Various tour companies advertise a “Kaymaklı & Mustafapaşa Full Day” itinerary, indicating that it’s a stand-alone highlight for some packages. Whether a guided tour is worth it depends on your preferences. A guide will explain the complex’s history, answer questions, and make sure you don’t miss any hidden nooks. The entry point often has official guides or licensed freelancers waiting; hiring one costs extra (usually a small fee per group).

On the other hand, the site is well-marked and can be navigated alone: the path is linear and well-maintained. Many visitors report that the audio signs and a good map (provided at entry) make it easy to explore by yourself. In fact, one FAQ in a travel blog notes that visitors can explore without a guide, though it “is recommended to hire a guide” for the historical context. If you enjoy reading signage and listening to an audio tour or app, you may not need a live guide. However, having a guide or joining a small group tour can enrich the experience, especially if you want detailed stories or if language is a barrier.

For those who prefer do-it-yourself planning, simply purchase your ticket at the entrance and walk in. Alternatively, if you are short on time and want an easy visit, you can book a combined tour that handles transport and admission. In summary: guided tours are available and can be interesting, but casual visitors can also visit Kaymaklı independently with no problem.

Types of Tours Available (Red, Green, Blue Tours)

• Blue Tour: Despite the name, tour colors vary by company. In Cappadocia, a “Blue Tour” often includes the southern sites: Kaymaklı Underground City, Mustafapaşa village and occasionally Ihlara Valley. This is a convenient package if Kaymaklı is your main interest. As noted, a standard “Blue Tour” listing explicitly includes Kaymaklı.
• Green Tour: This usually includes Derinkuyu (or sometimes Kaymaklı, depending on the operator), plus Ihlara Canyon and Selime Monastery. If a Green Tour visit includes an underground city, it may be Derinkuyu rather than Kaymaklı. However, some operators offer a choice or add Kaymaklı as an alternative.
• Red Tour: Typically covers the Göreme area, Uçhisar, Avanos, etc., and does not visit the underground cities. So if you are on a Red Tour, you likely would need a separate arrangement to see Kaymaklı.

Many local agencies allow customizing: you could take a private tour that visits Kaymaklı in the morning and another site in the afternoon. Check in advance.

Recommended Tour Operators

Several reputable Cappadocia travel agencies and guides offer packages including Kaymaklı. Many travelers mention companies like Turkish Heritage Travel, Bridge of the World, or local guides at the Göreme city center. Online platforms such as TripAdvisor or GetYourGuide list “Cappadocia Blue Tour: Kaymakli Underground City & Mustafapaşa – Full Day” from about $42 per person. Prices vary by season and group size. If you prefer a private guide, your hotel in Göreme or Ürgüp can usually help arrange one for a competitive rate.

It is generally best to book at least a day in advance during high season (spring and fall), as tours can fill up. Check reviews of the operator to ensure you get a knowledgeable local driver and guide.

Visiting Kaymakli Without a Tour: A DIY Guide

Kaymaklı is very accessible to independent travelers. The road leads directly to the site’s visitor center, where tickets are sold (see fees below). Entry is straightforward: you walk through a small gift shop into an interior lobby, pass through metal detectors, and then descend. There is no requirement to join a group or wait for a scheduled time. Walk‑in visitors simply enter when ready.

In practice, tourists often self‑guide. At the entrance you can pick up an informational pamphlet or rent an audio guide (available in major languages). Signs with maps are posted at each level. If parking a car or returning from a nearby hotel, you should arrive at least 10–15 minutes before closing to have enough time to explore, but otherwise you are free to wander. There is no exterior wall separating tour groups from solo visitors – everyone shares the same tunnels.

To navigate on your own, simply follow the arrows painted on the walls. They guide you through the floors in sequence (level 1 to level 4) and back out the entrance. The path is one-way. The only tricky part is keeping track of where you came in; if you get turned around, remember that the exit is back up the same ramp you descended, so if you see the sun at the top of a staircase, you are near the surface. In short, visiting alone is practical and common. The staff at the gate are helpful with basic questions if needed. Just be mindful that once down there, phone reception may be very weak. Take a photo of the exit sign as a memory aid.

Entrance Fees and Opening Hours for 2025

Fees: As of 2025, the admission fee for foreigners is about 350 Turkish Lira for an adult (roughly €13 as of mid-2025). Students and children pay a reduced rate (around 200 TL). There are discounted “museum pass” cards available in Turkey that cover multiple attractions, which include Kaymaklı for one single price (~1000 TL for multiple sites). On certain national holidays or museum‑free days, Turkish citizens may enter free or at a discount; international travelers sometimes qualify for a cultural pass.

Tickets can be bought at the entrance booth in cash or by credit card. A popular tip is to buy online via the Ministry of Culture website if you want to skip lines, especially in summer when busloads arrive. Note that entry fees are subject to change; the above is given as a guideline. At the time of writing, many reviews and local sources cite the fee as around €13 (about 300–350 TL) for foreigners, matching .

Hours: Kaymaklı Underground City is open daily throughout the year. The standard opening hours are 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM. The ticket office (box office) typically closes one hour before the site closes (around 5:00 PM). Peak visiting hours are late morning and early afternoon. It is strongly recommended to arrive early or late: local guides advise visiting before 10 AM or after 4 PM to avoid crowds. During high season (summer) the cave is crowded midday, and during winter daylight is short. Check the latest schedules, as in rare instances (major holidays or maintenance) hours can be reduced.

Always confirm the current fees and times a day or two before your visit, in case of mid‑season changes. Many travel sites and the official Cappadocia cultural portal update these annually.

Best Time of Day and Year to Visit for the Best Experience

• Time of Day: The underground city has the same temperature year‑round (cool but mild), so time of day mainly matters for crowd size. As noted, early morning or late afternoon tends to be quieter. Visitors are allowed entry right at opening (8:00 AM), and many recommend arriving then. By around noon, big tour buses begin to arrive. If you are sensitive to crowds, plan a morning slot.
• Time of Year: Spring (April–June) and autumn (September–November) are ideal. In spring, the weather is pleasant for traveling around Cappadocia by day, and crowds are moderate. In autumn, daylight lasts well into evening and temperatures remain comfortable. Summers (July–August) can be hot outside (though this is less relevant underground) and very busy, so if you come then, go early. Winters can be cold and snowy in Cappadocia – note that during heavy snow or freezing, access roads might be more challenging, but the city itself remains open and warm. Travel experts note that the best seasons are indeed spring and fall. Ultimately, Kaymaklı can be visited any time of year, but plan around weather and crowd preferences.
• Seasonal Advice: If you visit in winter, dress warmly for before/after the visit, and wear non-slip shoes in case the ground above is icy. In midsummer, bring a light top (the underground is cooler) and be prepared for hot transit aboveground. No matter what, always carry water and snacks with you: while the tunnels can provide atmosphere, they have no refreshment stalls inside.

What to See and Do Around Kaymakli

While the Underground City is the star attraction, there are nearby sights and experiences to extend your visit.

Exploring the Town of Kaymakli: Beyond the Underground City

Kaymaklı today is a quiet village of stone houses and orchards, not a tourist town. Most visitors pass through on the way to the caves. However, a brief stroll around town can be rewarding. The village itself is traditional Anatolian in style: flat-roofed, stone‑faced homes with wood‑vine-covered courtyards. Look for a village square where local men gather to chat over tea. Small shop stands sell fresh fruit (especially apples and grapes from the valley) and bottles of homemade fruit syrup or local wine. There is also a small pottery shop near the entrance; Cappadocia is famous for its ceramics, and you can find traditional hand-painted bowls, as well as the large pottery jugs used in the underground presses.

Just above the entrance building of the Underground City is a modest local museum (usually combined ticket with entry). It displays a few of the artifacts recovered during excavation: simple clay pots, some metal tools, and informative panels with photos of the digs. It’s worth a quick look before or after your tour to see maps of the hidden floors.

If you walk a bit further (toward the main road), you might find a hillside church ruins (there is an old Orthodox chapel at the edge of town, half in ruins but with a scenic view). Also on the outskirts are a few vineyards and apple orchards – Kaymaklı lies on a plain ideal for fruit cultivation. In October you may see locals picking grapes or drying apricots on the sidewalks.

The village has several modest restaurants and cafes catering to day‑trippers. They serve typical Turkish fare – gözleme (flatbread stuffed with cheese or spinach), lentil soup, and çay (tea). A visit to one of these local eateries is a chance to taste Cappadocian hospitality. Don’t expect menu choices; usually there are a couple of daily home-cooked specials. The portions tend to be generous.

Although Kaymaklı is not a scenic highlight above ground, some visitors simply sit at a café outside with tea after touring, taking in the quiet village atmosphere. The juxtaposition of going from centuries-old city to a still‑functioning village is an interesting contrast. If you have extra time, consider exploring a bit of the countryside around Kaymaklı on foot or by rental bike. Gentle farmland slopes stretch a few kilometers from the village, with old stone cross‑cultivation terraces and abandoned rock-cut granaries dotting the fields. This is authentic rural Cappadocia, far from the crowded tourist hubs.

Nearby Attractions: Combining Your Visit with Other Cappadocian Gems

Kaymaklı is well‑situated for a day trip that includes other famous Cappadocian sites. Some highlights within easy reach are:

• Derinkuyu Underground City: Only about 9 km away. If you have time for one subterranean tour, most travellers opt to do both. Many tours drive visitors from Kaymaklı to Derinkuyu in the same day.
• Göreme Open-Air Museum: About 20 km north. This UNESCO world heritage site is an above‑ground ensemble of rock churches with colorful frescoes dating from the 10th to 13th centuries. It represents the full cultural context of Cappadocia.
• Uçhisar Castle: Roughly 30 km north. A natural rock fortress that offers panoramic views over the whole region. From Uçhisar, one can see the vast plain of volcanoes and the network of valleys radiating outward – it helps one appreciate the landscape Kaymaklı is cut from.
• Pigeon Valley (Güvercinlik Vadisi): Also accessible via Uçhisar/Göreme, this scenic valley features hundreds of carved pigeon houses on the cliff faces (hence the name). It’s a short hike from Uçhisar to Göreme through the valley. If you arrive in Kaymaklı early, you could drive over to Uçhisar or Göreme in the afternoon for these sites.
• Ihlara Valley and Selime Monastery: These are farther afield (about 60 km to the south) and require a longer drive. They can be done if you have extra days. Many people visiting Kaymaklı also make a loop tour that includes Ihlara Canyon (deep river gorge with cave churches), Selime (a cathedral‑sized monastery carved into rock), and possibly hiking through the valley. If you prefer to stay close to Kaymaklı, focus on the ones above.

In practice, many travelers in Cappadocia book multi‑day trips. You could easily combine Kaymaklı (Day 1), Derinkuyu + Ihlara (Day 2), Göreme + Uçhisar (Day 3), etc. Public minibuses and tour buses connect these spots on a loop (often called the “South Cappadocia tour” and “Central Cappadocia tour”). If you are using public transport, the best sequence might be: take the bus to Kaymaklı in the morning, return via Nevşehir to Göreme (or use a Dolmuş that passes near a main road for other attractions).

Local Cuisine: Where to Eat Near Kaymakli

A visit to Cappadocia wouldn’t be complete without tasting its regional dishes. In Kaymaklı and nearby towns, several traditional foods stand out:

• Testi Kebabı (Pottery Kebab): A signature Cappadocian dish. Meat and vegetables are slow‑cooked inside a sealed clay pot. When served, the waiter breaks open the pot at your table. The result is a tender, aromatic stew. Turkish Airlines’ travel blog calls it a “must-try dish in Cappadocia”. Even small village eateries near Kaymaklı will advertise testi kebabı on certain days.
• Ayva Dolması (Stuffed Quince): A local specialty mentioned in regional food guides. This is quince fruit hollowed out and filled with spiced meat and rice, then baked. It’s a sweet‑savory dish unique to this province.
• Kuru Kaymak (Dried Cream): In fact, Kaymaklı’s very name inspired this specialty. “Kuru kaymak” is a thick clotted cream made from cow or buffalo milk, dried in the sun. Turkish Airlines’ food guide notes that Kaymaklı is famous for producing this delicacy. Locals often spread it on bread or serve it with honey as a dessert. Look for it in local markets.
• Çömlek Fasulye (Beans in a Clay Pot): Another regional comfort food. Dried beans are cooked with meat in a clay pot, slowly stewed over hours. It’s hearty and very Cappadocian.
• Other Anatolian Classics: You’ll also find standard Turkish dishes – gözleme (flatbread with cheese or spinach), lentil soup, roasted lamb shank, and mezze plates. Many roadside restaurants near Kaymaklı offer set lunch menus (often called “somon çorbası ve tavuk” – lemon chicken with rice, for example). Don’t expect fancy plating; these are family‑run kitchens.

For drinks, consider local wine. Cappadocia has a millennia‑long tradition of viticulture. A glass of local red or white can complement the meal. Ayran (a salty yogurt drink) and şalgam (turnip juice) are also common non-alcoholic options.

If time permits, try one of the higher‑rated village restaurants (TripAdvisor notes “Cappadocia Village Home Cooking” and similar establishments near Kaymaklı) or ask your guide. Even a small café by the bus stop can have excellent lentil soup (“mercimek çorbası”) and toasted bread. The flavors in this countryside – sun‑ripened tomatoes, local herbs, fresh milk yogurt – are often more robust than in tourist centers.

A Visual Journey: Photo and Video Gallery of Kaymakli

Visiting Kaymaklı is a very visual experience – one of texture, shadow and architectural wonder. The photos below (from open sources) convey a sense of the underground city’s look:

In the image above, we see a narrow carved corridor on Kaymaklı’s first level. The stone walls and ceiling are roughly hewn, and the floor is made of dark gray brick and packed earth. Visitors must walk hunched slightly under the low ceiling. On either side of this corridor are a series of small chambers; each doorway once led to a family’s dwelling or stable. This shot illustrates how confined the spaces are, and how the artificial lights cast warm glows along the rough surfaces.

This second photo shows a broader chamber on a lower level. Overhead one can make out a large, curved ceiling, like an arch. The room is more open – roughly rectangular – and you can see the carved stone column supporting the center of the ceiling. This supports that earlier inhabitants knew how to shore up larger spaces. In the back you can see faint steps leading further down, indicating that even below this floor lies more to explore. Notice the reflection on the floor – traces of pooling water or dampness.

For contrast, this photo looks above ground near Kaymaklı. It captures the golden Cappadocian hills surrounding the village. The land is arid but dotted with vineyards and small rock pinnacles. The hazy atmosphere underlines how open and exposed the world outside is, compared to the sealed world beneath. Daylight above ground is bright and expansive; below, as shown in the other images, the experience is of enclosed stone. Together these visuals remind us of the stark transformation one undergoes when entering the underground city – from sun to stone, from open sky to tunnel.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Kaymakli Underground City

Q: What was found in the underground city in Turkey?
A: Archaeologists have uncovered a range of artifacts spanning many centuries. Items such as ceramic jars, oil lamps, grinding stones, farming tools, and pottery are commonly found in the chambers. Remarkably, a large carved block with dozens of metal brackets was discovered – interpreted as a copper-smelting crucible. In the church areas, stone crosses and fragments of fresco (mostly painted crosses) have been recorded. Coins from Byzantine times, arrowheads, and personal jewelry have also been found, usually preserved in the dry, constant climate. These finds collectively show daily life and the defensive needs of the inhabitants. A guide book notes that many of the artifacts date to the Byzantine era (5th–10th centuries AD), indicating continuous use and adaptation over time.

Q: How many underground cities are there in Cappadocia?
A: Scores of them. To date, scholars have identified around 40 known multi-level underground cities in Cappadocia, with dozens more minor cave complexes and smaller village hideouts. One travel resource remarks that in total “there are about 200 underground cities, settlements and cave complexes in Cappadocia”. Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu are simply the largest and best preserved of these. Others include Özkonak, Mazi, Gaziemir, and several more, each varying in size. Many are nearby – Derinkuyu is 9 km from Kaymaklı, while Özkonak is another 10 km beyond. Visitors sometimes plan a subterranean city “tour,” hopping between these sites.

Q: Is there electricity and lighting inside Kaymakli?
A: Yes – for modern visitors. The tunnels we explore today are fitted with electric bulbs on wires, and emergency lights have been added to guide tourists. So when you walk the route, you will see dim artificial light illuminating the corridors. Anciently, of course, there was no electric lighting – only oil lamps or candles. In fact, guides mention that the ancients kept lamp use to a minimum to conserve oxygen. The old ventilation shafts would have allowed some natural light (especially on upper levels near the surface), but mostly residents would have relied on firelight. So the modern lighting makes visiting much safer and more comfortable, but it is deliberately kept low to preserve the atmosphere.

Q: Are there guides available for hire at the entrance?
A: Yes. There is usually a group of local guides or tourist officers at the ticket desk. You can hire a licensed guide on the spot if you wish. Many independent tourists do this, especially if they want historical commentary or translation. The guides are typically very knowledgeable, telling stories of how the underground villages were used, and pointing out small details a casual visitor might miss. As one FAQ notes, hiring a guide is recommended for richer context, though it is by no means mandatory. Entry is open to everyone, so you can also explore solo or with your own group.

Q: What should I wear and bring for a visit to Kaymakli?
A: Dress comfortably and practically. Recommended attire is loose, casual clothing and sturdy shoes. Slippers or high heels are a bad choice because the floors and stairs can be slippery. Bring a light jacket or sweater, as the underground temperature is cool. A hat or glasses are unnecessary below ground, but useful for sun outside. Many visitors bring a small flashlight or headlamp, although it is optional since the site has its own lighting. It never hurts to have extra illumination to inspect dark corners. Also carry water (bottles can be stowed in your bag) in case of thirst from climbing. Finally, bring a camera! Photos are allowed (no flash on frescoes, though there is not much paint left here). The smartphone signal may drop off, so download your route map ahead of time.

Q: Is Kaymakli worth visiting?
A: Most travelers who make the trip say emphatically yes. Kaymaklı offers a unique peek into an ancient way of life that no museum can replicate. Its sheer scale and preservation are unmatched. If you are already in Cappadocia, Kaymakli (along with Derinkuyu) are often considered “must-see” even by those who are not history buffs. It is unlike anything in the world — a vast, secret city beneath a sleepy village.

Q: Can you visit Kaymakli without a tour?
A: Absolutely. As noted, Kaymaklı is fully set up for self‑guided visits. You do not need to be part of an organized tour to enter. Simply arrive during open hours, buy a ticket, and walk down. The paths are clear, and any visitor can follow the arrows. Groups just mean there will be other people around, but many tour groups consist of only a few people. The underground city is designed to accommodate dozens of independent visitors at the same time. Even in peak season, visitors flow in smoothly through one-way gates. So yes, you can very easily visit Kaymaklı on your own timetable.