Eyüpsultan

Nestled along the storied waters of the Golden Horn on Istanbul’s European side, Eyüpsultan is a district where the city’s deep past meets its everyday present. This neighborhood grew around a mosque and tomb of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari, a revered companion of the Prophet Muhammad, giving it an aura of sanctity that sets it apart from Istanbul’s more secular quarters. But Eyüpsultan is far more than a single holy site. It is a tapestry of Ottoman-era cemeteries and historical mosques, lively cafés clinging to a pine-covered hillside, traditional markets and sweet shops, and leafy waterfront promenades. Its combination of solemn heritage and down-to-earth neighborhood life makes it a “must-visit” for travelers seeking an authentic slice of Istanbul beyond the tourist crowds. In this guide, we will explore Eyüpsultan’s history and highlights – from the Eyüp Sultan Mosque and Pierre Loti Hill to local cuisine, transport tips, and hidden gems – illuminating why this neighborhood is both sacred and vibrantly alive.

What is Eyüpsultan and Why Is It a Must-Visit?

Eyüpsultan (often still called simply “Eyüp” by locals) is a sprawling municipality and district of Istanbul that stretches from the inner mouth of the Golden Horn all the way northward to the Bosphorus and the Black Sea. Its heart is the historic Eyüp neighborhood, a place with roots reaching back to Byzantine times, once known as Kosmidion. By the Ottoman era the district’s character was sealed: in 1458 Sultan Mehmed II (“Fatih Sultan Mehmet”) built a mosque complex here on the grave of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari, who had died during the Arab siege of Constantinople. The district was renamed Eyüpsultan by the Ottomans in honor of this holy burial site.

Eyüpsultan today feels like a bridge between eras. On one hand it is one of the most sacred corners of Istanbul – Muslim pilgrims have long come here to pray at Eyüp Sultan Mosque and its türbe (mausoleum) of the saintly companion of the Prophet. For centuries, new Ottoman sultans even held an accession ceremony here: they would process up the “Cülüs Yolu” from the mosque and be girded with the Sword of Osman before entering Istanbul to rule. (That “Accession Road” is still today a tree-lined lane of Ottoman tombs.)

On the other hand, Eyüpsultan is undeniably a living, breathing neighborhood. Its narrow streets are lined with small shops, bakeries, and cafés; families live in modest apartment blocks above tea houses; fishermen below cast lines into the Golden Horn; and children play amid the olive trees of ancient cemeteries. One long-time resident describes the district as “where tradition meets daily life” – a place of old-time façades and minarets under which everyday modern Istanbul unfolds. That dual identity – deeply historic and prayerful, yet grounded and accessible – gives Eyüpsultan a special charm. It is not just a museum quarter but a genuine community, making it worth visiting not only for its past but for its present.

Despite being off the beaten path, Eyüpsultan is easy to reach (see our Transport section). It sits only a few kilometers from Sultanahmet and Beyoğlu, yet retains a quieter, more local pace. The Golden Horn coast is lined with parks and tea gardens, and from high points like Pierre Loti Hill one can see the familiar Istanbul skyline – mosques, minarets, and all. In short, Eyüpsultan offers a “best of both worlds”: some of Istanbul’s oldest, holiest heritage alongside the flavors and rhythms of everyday Turkish life. Few other Istanbul districts evoke both the sacred and the vibrant so completely, making this area a must-visit for curious travelers and worshippers alike.

The Sacred Heart of Istanbul: The Eyüp Sultan Mosque (Eyüp Sultan Camii)

Eyüp Sultan Mosque is the district’s beating heart – a vast courtyard and domed mosque complex built to honor Abu Ayyub al-Ansari (Eyüp Sultan), who is said to lie buried here. This site is among the holiest in Turkey. According to legend, the Ottomans only learned of the tomb’s location after Sultan Mehmed II’s teacher, the saint Akşemseddin, had a dream revealing its spot. Five years after conquering Constantinople, Mehmed ordered a complex built atop the grave, hoping to blend Istanbul’s new Islamic identity with Ottoman imperial prestige.

The original 15th-century mosque soon became part of official Ottoman coronation rites. New sultans would arrive here before entering the city to be girded with the Sword of Osman. In that ritual they followed the shaded Cülüs Yolu (“Accession Way”), a ceremonial boulevard stretching from the Eyüp complex to the Golden Horn shore. Today the Cülüs Yolu survives as an evocative alley lined with monumental tombstones and cypress trees, a tangible link to that bygone ceremony.

Over time the mosque building itself underwent change. The first structure was heavily damaged by earthquakes, so Sultan Selim III ordered it rebuilt in the late 18th century. By 1800 a new mosque rose on the site, featuring a graceful ensemble of domes and slender minarets. Its design blends classical Ottoman forms with later Baroque touches that had begun to influence Turkish architecture by that era. Inside, the main prayer hall shelters worshippers under a vast central dome ringed by sixteen smaller domes, all resting on thick marble pillars. The walls and mihrab (prayer niche) glint with İznik tiles in vivid blues and greens, some dating back to earlier Ottoman periods.

Adjacent to the mosque is the Eyüp Sultan Türbesi – the shrine and tomb of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari. Devotees step into this courtyard with reverence, often placing coins on the tomb’s ornate dome or whispering prayers. While the tomb chamber is closed to casual photography, its exterior and surrounding walls are covered in richly painted tiles and inscriptions. The air here feels solemn yet peaceful; soft daylight filters through stained-glass, and the fragrance of incense drifts at times. Visiting the türbe is considered a deeply spiritual experience by many Muslim visitors, who see it as a direct connection to the early Islamic era.

For non-Muslim visitors the Eyüp Sultan Mosque complex still offers a moving glimpse into Ottoman Islam. The prayer hall (open except during services) impresses with its sweeping architecture, and the courtyard lined with ancient sycamores is serene. There are several areas to explore: one can climb a wooden ramp to stand at the women’s prayer gallery, trace the patterns of hand-painted tiles, or gaze at the traditional wooden minbar (pulpit) inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Many describe the feeling as unlike any other Istanbul mosque: it is simultaneously grand and humble, reflecting both the imperial ambition of Mehmet II and the ascetic piety of the tomb’s saint.

Practical Visiting Tips. The mosque welcomes visitors of all faiths year-round. Admission is free, and opening hours extend throughout the day (except during the first minute of each call to prayer, when the doors close briefly). Visitors must wear modest clothing and women should cover hair and shoulders, as with any mosque: long trousers or skirts and covered heads are required for entry. Scarves are often available at the entrance. Everyone must remove shoes before entering. As one guide advises, “Sacred thresholds welcome souls freely, without monetary demands. Modest garments honor these hallowed spaces.” Visitors should also note that photography is discouraged during prayer and inside the tomb; if in doubt, ask a staff member or worshipper.

The quiet ambiance and gravity of the site can make time pass slowly. For an optimal experience, many locals and guidebooks suggest arriving in the cooler morning or late afternoon, especially outside the high summer season. (In fact, mild spring and autumn months are reputedly the best times, when sunlight slants across the Golden Horn and the courtyard stays pleasantly cool.) When prayers are not underway, one can linger amid the tiled fountains and marble benches in the courtyard or step onto the platform outside the tomb’s dome to look out at the city.

A Breathtaking Panorama: Pierre Loti Hill (Piyer Loti Tepesi)

From the foot of Eyüpsultan’s historic core, a forested hill rises 70 meters above the Golden Horn. Atop it is Pierre Loti Hill, crowned by a quaint 19th-century café named after a French novelist. This vantage point has long been one of Istanbul’s most romantic. When the French writer Pierre Loti (born Louis Marie Viaud) lived in Istanbul in the late 1800s, he would often retreat here to soak in the view – so much so that locals began informally calling the spot “Pierre Loti’s hill.” Legend holds that he bought a salmon-colored fez from a street vendor and wore it whenever he worked at the hilltop café, inscribing its name forever in local memory. In his novel Aziyadé (set in Istanbul), Loti wrote of “the whole of Stamboul foreshortened, mosques, domes, and minarets, all huddled together in one confused blur,” capturing the dizzying sweep of the panorama.

Today the high bluff, with its cozy wooden terrace and clattering tea service, remains a magnet for romantics, photographers, and anyone craving a different perspective on Istanbul. From Pierre Loti Hill one sees the Golden Horn curving out to the north, with the edge of the historic peninsula, its mosques and narrow streets, on one side, and the outskirts of the city on the other. On clear days the urban skyline seems condensed: you spot the silhouette of Süleymaniye and Yeni Mosque across the horn, and the neighborhoods of Fatih and Beyoğlu sparkling under late sun. Sunset here is famed – as twilight descends, the domes glow, streetlights start to flicker, and the Golden Horn’s waters turn gold. This “captivating vista” is nothing like the Bosphorus view from the bridges or hills on the Asian side. Instead, it offers a “uniquely different” tableau: peaceful harbors, lush hillsides, and a closer, more intimate cityscape studded with minarets.

At the very top sits the Pierre Loti Café itself, a two-story wooden tea house overlooking the bay. Its indoor tables are air-conditioned, but most visitors prefer the outdoor garden, where foxgloves and geraniums bloom on wooden railings. The menu is simple: tea, strong Turkish coffee, and light snacks like gözleme (thin omelet-wrapped flatbread). But the real specialty is the view: guests linger for hours nursing a small cup of çay and nibbling on baklava or stuffed figs as ferries and kedi (boat) traffic traverse the water far below. There is a small museum area inside displaying old photographs of Loti and historic photos of the café. As one travel writer notes, “visiting is something of a pilgrimage” for literature buffs and romantics.

How to Reach Pierre Loti Hill

Getting to this lofty spot itself is part of the fun. From the mosque complex in Eyüpsultan, you have a few choices:

  • By Cable Car: The modern Eyüpsultan Cable Car (Piyer Loti Teleferik) runs from near the mosque up to a station almost at the hilltop. The gondolas depart every few minutes. The ride takes only about two minutes and climbs through pine groves to emerge at a small terrace just a short walk from the café. Along the way, riders catch their first sweeping glimpse of the Golden Horn. (Early mornings and late afternoons are magical in the cable car; the sun plays on the water and old tombstones nearby.). The cable car is very popular – in high season thousands of people ride it daily – and a one-way ticket costs just a few lira (less than a euro). It operates roughly from morning until just after dusk.
  • On Foot Through the Cemetery: For a more atmospheric approach, one can ascend on foot via the Eyüp Cemetery path. Through “Gate C” at the back of the Eyüp Sultan Mosque’s courtyard, a wide cobbled stairway climbs between rows of ornate Ottoman gravestones. This winding route takes about 15–20 minutes to reach Pierre Loti. It is quiet, shaded and exceptionally picturesque: flanking your path are centuries-old tombs, some topped with stone fez for men or carved with roses for women. The path is well-tended and safe (by day), though be mindful of uneven stones. Many guides highlight it as an unforgettable prelude to the café: one writer advises arriving by cable car up and then walking back down, so as to absorb the history on the descent.
  • Taxi or Bus: If you prefer not to walk, a taxi or ride-share to the cable car station is quick (2–3 km from Sultanahmet) though slightly more expensive. There is also a short bus line (e.g. the 50TU from Taksim) that stops near Eyüpsultan Teleferik station. In any case, the hilltop itself is entirely pedestrianized (beyond the cable car), so vehicles do not drive up the last slope.

Relaxing at Pierre Loti Café

Once at the summit, the beloved Pierre Loti Café beckons. In fine weather its garden is thronged with local families and young couples, especially on weekends. The staff set out trays of tulip-shaped tea glasses and plates of baklava, lokma (syrup donuts) or tahinli pide (sesame pastry). The cups may be small, but the view is enormous: one terrace area is even dubbed “Nazım Hikmet’s Table,” after the famous poet who liked to sit at the very edge.

If all shaded seats in the café are occupied, do not despair: there is a viewpoint area just past the terrace with benches and even a telescope. Locals will often encourage newcomers to “go up there” for a truly unbroken panorama. In autumn months the views can be especially clear. Rainy days are subdued but atmospheric: emerald fog sometimes drapes the Golden Horn while the café’s roof and heaters offer snug shelter.

No matter the season, the café’s vibe is always laid-back. Children dart around chasing pigeons; elders press their hands into prayer beads as they sip thick coffee; couples hold hands on park benches. It feels, in many ways, like being in a vast open-air living room with the whole of Istanbul laid out before you. As one writer put it, sipping tea here is “far from macabre” despite the cemetery – in fact, the juxtaposition of graves and tea tables is part of the hill’s charm.

Your Comprehensive Guide to Getting to Eyüpsultan

Eyüpsultan is well-connected by Istanbul’s transit network, but navigating it calls for some orientation. Travelers approaching from central Istanbul should note which side of the Golden Horn they’re on and choose a route accordingly:

  • From Sultanahmet/Eminönü: The most scenic approach is by ferry. From Eminönü docks on the old peninsula, city ferries on the Golden Horn line make stops at Eyüp Pier (on the European side) en route to Üsküdar. The ride along the misty horn is atmospheric. Disembark at Eyüp Pier, then walk or catch a short bus (lines 36CE or 48E) up into the Eyüp Sultan neighborhood. Ferries run frequently during the day. Alternatively, the new T5 tram also serves this corridor: take the Golden Horn Tram to “Eyüpsultan-Teleferik” stop, right by the cable car lower station. The tram is modern and comfortable.
  • From Taksim/Beyoğlu: There is no single direct bus from Taksim, but one can take the M2 metro from Taksim down to Vezneciler (close to Topkapı). From there either transfer to a short taxi ride or take a bus such as the 48E towards the Golden Horn, getting off near Eyüp. The journey typically takes 30–40 minutes in normal traffic. (Alternatively from Taksim you could go to Şişhane tram stop and change to a tram to Cibali then to Eyüpsultan by tram as above.)
  • By Taxi/Rideshare: A taxi ride from Sultanahmet or Taksim to Eyüpsultan usually takes 15–20 minutes and costs on the order of 150–200 TRY (roughly €5–7), depending on traffic. It’s straightforward but not free of Istanbul’s typical congestion. If pressed for time, a taxi to Eyüp teleferik station – or even all the way up to Pierre Loti Cafe – is a convenient though slightly more expensive option.
  • On Foot: For adventurous walkers: Eyüpsultan is about 4 km (2.5 miles) from Eminönü and 5 km from Taksim. One could walk along the waterfront from Sultanahmet, passing the Spice Bazaar and Golden Horn ferries, all the way to Eyüp in under 1 hour. The path is flat until the cemetery ascent, which is steep. But for many visitors, a bus or tram is a simpler choice.

No matter which route you choose, you’ll arrive in a district that starts at sea level by the water and quickly climbs into hills. Be prepared for some uphill walking if you plan to see the mosque, the cemetery pathways, or the cable car.

Top 10 Unforgettable Things to Do in Eyüpsultan

  1. Visit Eyüp Sultan Mosque and Türbe. Begin at the grand mosque courtyard. Climb the modest marble steps and step inside the shaded courtyard: you are standing on what many Muslims consider “the holiest ground on earth after Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem.” Inside, pray or quietly observe the worshippers at their silent devotions; outside, explore the türbe courtyard and marvel at the rich tilework on the domed shrine. Don’t miss the tiny gold-and-emerald “Imam Chair” in the outdoor prayer hall, a gift from Sultan Abdulhamid II. This pilgrimage site is the district’s defining landmark.
  2. Climb Pierre Loti Hill for Tea with a View. Ride the Eyüpsultan cable car or hike up through the cemetery to reach the Pierre Loti Café. Order a glass of apple tea or Turkish coffee and savor the sweeping Golden Horn panorama. Watch the boats far below as they cut through the emerald water. Snap photos of the endless domes of Istanbul under wide sky, and listen to the murmurs of history in the breeze.
  3. Ride the Scenic Cable Car (Teleferik). Beyond transportation, this is an attraction itself. Board the glass-sided gondola at the foot of Pierre Loti Hill: in minutes you ascend a forest-clad slope with little other noise than the wind and the cables’ hum. On a clear day the views unfold impressively even on the ascent: the Golden Horn below flanked by Eyüpsultan’s rooftops and cemeteries. The cable car runs until dusk, so try to take it near sunrise or sunset for especially memorable light on the city.
  4. Stroll Through the Eyüp Cemetery (“City of the Dead”). On the hillsides around the mosque and up toward Pierre Loti, an enormous Ottoman cemetery stretches out – one of the oldest and largest in Istanbul. Its marble gravestones are centuries old, worn into whimsical shapes of turbans, fezzes, and flowing robes. Follow the winding paths to find the serene Eyüp Cemetery, with shaded walkways and spotty sunlight. Explore the rows of ornate tombstones – here lie Ottoman pashas, poets, and even members of sultans’ families. The craftsmanship of the carved marble (some topped with fluted turban fragments or sculpted roses) is fascinating.
  5. Explore the Zal Mahmud Pasha Mosque. Just north of the main complex stands this lesser-known gem. Built in the late 16th century, it was designed by the great imperial architect Mimar Sinan. Its dome and single minaret are elegant and proportional, typical of Sinan’s best work. Step inside to see a brilliantly tiled mihrab and a tomb chamber in the courtyard that historically held the vizier Zal Mahmud Pasha and his wife (a daughter of Sultan Selim II). While not as famous as other Sinan mosques, its intimate size and elegant details make it worth seeking out.
  6. Walk the Cülus Yolu (Accession Way). Find “Gate C” at the back of the Eyüp Sultan Mosque courtyard; through it is the beginning of the Cülüs Yolu. This old stone-paved street was the processional route for new sultans, who were girded with the Sword of Osman just here. Now it is lined with towering cypress trees and more tombs. As you stroll, imagine the Ottoman princes of old taking these same steps in ceremonial guard. The air is quiet here, often touched by the scent of nearby jasmine. A few ruined mansions and caravanserai remnants can still be spotted among the graves.
  7. Browse the Local Bazaars. Eyüpsultan’s marketplaces are colorful and traditional. Near the mosque, small arcades and stalls sell religious items and souvenirs: prayer beads made of olive wood or amber, hand-copied Qur’ans, and the famous İznik-style ceramic tiles printed with Ottoman motifs. Sweet shops offer Turkish delight, pistachio nougat, and the district’s specialty: thick kaymak (clotted cream) typically eaten with honey or fresh figs. For clothing and everyday items, the Eyüpsultan Otantik Çarşı and Balaban Yolu markets abound with textiles, scarves, and spices. Don’t hesitate to haggle politely – vendors are usually friendly and will often offer a “cuppa çay” if you show interest.
  8. Visit Feshane: At the base of Pierre Loti Hill (near Eyüp tram stop) is Feshane, an 18th-century Ottoman textile factory-turned-exhibition center. Today it hosts cultural events and fairs, ranging from art shows to weddings. Even if no event is on, Feshane’s classical brick warehouses and chimney evoke industrial-era history. In autumn it’s famous for a huge Halloween-themed festival; at other times one can explore its courtyard cafés and cultural exhibitions.
  9. Boat Trip on the Golden Horn. From Eyüp Pier or Sütlüce Pier, you can catch the Golden Horn ferry line westward or eastward. A short cruise takes you past the Rumeli Hisarı fortress up the Bosphorus, or into the heart of the city past Eminönü and Karaköy. It’s a pleasant way to connect Eyüpsultan to other sights (for instance, you could ferry to Eminönü and walk to Galata). The ticket is cheap and Istanbulkart friendly.
  10. Indulge in Local Sweets. After sightseeing, treat yourself like a local: sit in a tea garden by the Golden Horn with köpüklü kahve (foamy Turkish coffee) and a plate of baklava or lokma. Eyüp is renowned for its kaymak (cream), especially eaten with honey and bread – a must-try for a rich, decadent flavor. For something savory, try köfte (meatball) sandwiches or a “Piyer Loti pide” (specially shaped flatbread named after the hill) from a tezgah (street stand). And of course sip çay all day, the way locals do, as you watch life go by.

A Journey Through Time: The Historic Streets and Cemeteries of Eyüpsultan

Eyüpsultan is not a polished showcase but an old neighborhood with layers of history visible in every corner. Beyond the major sights above, its backstreets and tombyards are themselves attractions:

The Eyüp Cemetery: A City of the Dead

Just behind the mosque and beneath Pierre Loti hill lies the vast Eyüp Cemetery, sometimes called the “City of the Dead.” It is possibly the largest Ottoman burial ground still visible in Istanbul. Wandering here is like stepping into an Ottoman painting: the ground is carpeted with uncut grasses and trees, and everywhere are marble stele carved in classical Ottoman art. One finds both grand mausoleums and simple headstones: the wealthy often erected miniature domes and columns over their graves, while others simply have intricately carved stones. Patterns include tulips, stars, Qur’anic verses, and dates inscribed in old Ottoman Turkish. The sheer number of graves is humbling – one estimate is that hundreds of thousands of people are buried here, layered through generations. Among the mourners’ trails, look for novelty: some trees still bear old Ottoman foundations of guardian shrines. Photography (respectfully) captures the blend of nature and stone – golden sunset light on white marble, or morning mist threading between cypresses.

The Cülüs Yolu: The Accession Road of Sultans

As mentioned, the Cülüs Yolu (Accession Road) was a ceremonial boulevard. Today only parts of its stones and gateway fragments remain. The most intact section runs behind the mosque from Gate C to the gate of the Eyüp Cemetery. It is marked by a surviving city gate called ”Burmalı Kilise Kapısı” (Spiral Gate) and an Ottoman Külliye fountain, which once cooled arriving dignitaries. Now it’s a quiet path flanked by cinderblock shops and local houses. Walking it, one can imagine the Sultans’ horse-drawn processions. Small museums along it – such as the Russian Orthodox Pierre Loti Church dedicated to the martyr saint Panteleimon – hint at the later multicultural chapters of Eyüpsultan.

Strolling Through the Backstreets

Away from the main mosque compound, the neighborhood unfolds in an organic grid. Turn down any narrow lane and you’ll find a neighborhood coffee shop or a courtyard fountain. In Camiatik (around the historic mansions) are some classic wooden Ottoman houses with latticed windows and wrought-iron balconies. A few hidden gems might include little 19th-century fountains decorated with calligraphy, or small tekkes (Sufi lodges) tucked between apartment blocks. The pedestrianized Şemsi Paşa Caddesi is a lively bazaar street with butchers, grocers, and dessert shops. In most neighborhoods of Istanbul the local markets reflect local tastes: here you might spot a shop selling olive wood crafts or traditional takke (prayer hats).

Walking around in late afternoon or early evening, one sees families walking home carrying shopping bags, men playing backgammon at tea gardens, and fathers teaching their children to say es-selamün aleyküm at the mosque doors. Eyüpsultan is known among locals as an “introverted” or conservative area (in contrast to the trendier districts), so outwardly the atmosphere can feel calm and respectful. But one does get a genuine slice of Istanbul life: mothers in headscarves laden with groceries, teenagers hanging out sipping ayran, and old men in flat caps smoking nargile on stoops.

The Flavors of Eyüpsultan: A Culinary Guide

While Eyüpsultan is not a gourmet hotspot, it has a solid Turkish food scene rooted in tradition. Local tastes lean towards hearty Anatolian fare and sweet treats – think of it as comfort food in an Ottoman kitchen setting.

Must-Try Local Delicacies

  • Eyüp Kebab: A local variant of minced lamb kebab, often served over rice or in pide (flatbread). It can be richly seasoned with cumin, paprika, and topped with melted butter and yogurt. Many family-run lokanta (diner-style restaurants) serve it; ask a local for the best spot.
  • Piyer Loti Pide: A small boat-shaped pide (Turkish pizza) named after the hill. Topped with cheese, eggs or ground meat, it’s crispy and best eaten piping hot. Find it at little open-air griddles.
  • Eye Cream “Krema” (Kaymak): Eyüp is famous for its thick clotted cream, often served for breakfast or with dessert. It has a rich milky flavor. Try it with honey on toast, or with fresh figs and walnuts.
  • Baklava and Şekerpare: The neighborhood is dotted with quaint pastry shops. These make their own baklava (layers of filo, nuts, and syrup) and şekerpare (almond cookies soaked in syrup). A small café around Eyüp square, Ortaklar Baklava, has been in business for decades and is a local favorite.
  • Lokma: These are small round doughnuts drizzled with syrup. Often sold on street carts or at mini shops. They are cheap, sweet, and best eaten warm.
  • Traditional Turkish Breakfast: Many cafes offer kahvaltı spreads – not unique to Eyüp, but an authentic experience. Platters include cheeses, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, butter, jam, and often kaymak or honeycomb. Try a local spot like Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi Teahouse or one of the wooden cabinets in the Otantik Bazaar.
  • Kahve (Turkish Coffee) and Çay (Tea): No guide to Eyüp would be complete without the ubiquitous tea and coffee. Eyüp has several classic tea gardens and cafés (especially near the mosque and cable car) where one can sample Turkish coffee: small, black, and foam-topped, served with a glass of water. Pair it with a piece of lokum (Turkish delight) – the famous Mehmet Efendi lokum shop is near the Eyüp Square. For çay, just order it black in a tulip glass; it’s usually served with the glass on a saucer and sugar cubes. Drinking çay on a bench overlooking the Golden Horn, out of a çay bardak, is an Eyüp ritual.

Recommended Restaurants and Cafés

Most dining in Eyüpsultan is casual. There are no 5-star restaurants as such, but plenty of beloved local joints:

  • Eyüp Sultan Kebab & Baklava Salonu: Right near the mosque, this busy spot serves the above-mentioned kebab and its own house baklava. It’s not fancy, but the food is comforting.
  • Piyer Loti Teahouse: At the top of the hill, this is as much a café as a restaurant. It offers sandwiches, gözleme (filled crepes) and the view. It’s slow-paced and scenic.
  • Şömine Restaurant: A few blocks from the mosque, this family-run eatery is known for grilled meats and rustic Turkish dishes (like grilled lamb chops, stuffed eggplant, etc). It has a homely atmosphere.
  • Papazın Lokantası: Near Pier Loti station, offers big set menus of Ottoman-style mezes, lentil soup, stuffed dolmas, and oven-baked meat stews. Good for trying many dishes.
  • Aslan Çay Bahçesi: A classic tea garden under plane trees by the Golden Horn. You can order tea and borek (cheese pastry) while watching fishing boats glide by. It’s cheap and open-air.

Breakfast spots worth mention:

  • Eyüp Kahvaltı Evi: Known for generous breakfast spreads.
  • Köşe Kahvaltı: A small street café with good omelets and fresh eggs.

In general, eating in Eyüp is about local flavor and value: most meals cost very little by European standards, often under 100 TRY per person for a generous meal including salad and water. Tipping a small amount (5-10%) is customary but not mandatory at casual places.

A Shopper’s Paradise: From Traditional Bazaars to Modern Finds

Eyüpsultan is more known for its historical market ambiance than for high-end shopping. However, it offers a satisfying variety for those who enjoy wandering through bazaars and minor shopping streets:

The Eyüpsultan Bazaar

Around the mosque and Eyüp Square, you’ll find a labyrinth of covered arcades and streets full of small shops. These include:

  • Religious and Souvenir Stalls: Vendors sell tasbih (prayer beads of rosewood or amber), mosque lamps, framed calligraphy, and replicas of the Prophet’s relics. Many sell glittery Turkish tiles and small carpets as decorative pieces. The prices are generally low; haggling is accepted.
  • Textile and Rug Shops: A few shops here offer handwoven rugs, kilims, and scarves. While not as famous as the Grand Bazaar, the craftsmanship can be good.
  • Halva and Lokum Shops: Look for specialty sweet shops. One famous name is Halıcı Mustafa Efendi, known for its tahini halvah. Buying a box of lokum (Turkish delight) or dried figs makes a nice gift.
  • Eyüp Otantik Çarşı and Balaban Yolu: These two parallel streets (just north of the mosque) are especially lively. In addition to tourist items, they have hardware stores, butcheries, and kumi shops. The name Otantik is a bit ironic now, as it feels more like an ordinary market street. But every evening it comes alive with juice stands and tea sellers, and a casual stroll will reveal inexpensive kitchenware, furniture knockoffs, and stacks of gold coins in shop windows.

Modern Shopping Opportunities

If you crave more modern shops, there are nearby malls and centers reachable by a short ride:

  • Forum İstanbul Mall: Technically in the neighboring district of Bayrampaşa, this is one of the largest malls in Europe. It houses hundreds of international and Turkish brand stores (H&M, Zara, etc.), as well as an aquarium and cinema. It’s about a 15-minute taxi ride from Eyüpsultan.
  • Axis Mall (Kartaltepe): Smaller than Forum, about a 10-minute drive. It contains a cinema, some clothing stores, and cafes. Handy for basic shopping (electronics, books, sports gear).
  • Local Shopping Centers: Over the Golden Horn on the east side is the Atatürk Cultural Center Mall, reachable by ferry to Karaköy plus a tram, but that’s not in Eyüpsultan itself. The heart of Eyüp has few big chains – it’s mostly independent stores.

In general, shopping in Eyüpsultan is best done for character goods and local souvenirs. If you want modern fashion or high-end brands, you’re better off in Taksim or Etiler. But for atmospheric browsing – the warren of textile shops, copperware, and spice stalls – Eyüpsultan has an old-town appeal. Enjoy the scene: shopkeepers often sit chatting outside stores, and the sense of tradition is palpable, even as the shops keep the neon signboard-hum of modern commerce.

Living in Eyüpsultan: A Glimpse into Local Life

For visitors curious about what it’s like to stay long-term or even settle here, Eyüpsultan offers a mix of old and new. The atmosphere feels more provincial than hyper-urban. Many parts of Eyüp are green, with parks and open space along the Golden Horn and further north toward Bahçeköy. The pace is unhurried; families often stroll together at twilight.

In recent years Eyüpsultan has also seen development: new apartment complexes and gated communities have risen on its northern fringes (especially around Göktürk and Kemerburgaz). These offer modern condos, sometimes with pools and gyms, and draw wealthier residents. However, the historical core around Eyüp square remains mostly mid-century apartment blocks and the original Ottoman-era buildings. Thus one finds a range of housing: from cheap, small flat rentals by long-time residents to luxury villas deeper north. (A general market indication: the median sale price of apartments in the district is in the mid-tens of thousands of Turkish lira per square meter, much lower than central Istanbul.)

Amenities and Lifestyle. Eyüpsultan boasts a remarkably strong infrastructure for everyday life. The district has numerous schools (including international and religious schools), universities (Haliç University campus is in Alibeyköy, just south of Eyüp), hospitals (e.g. Eyüp Sultan Public Hospital and several private clinics), and public facilities. You will see many supermarkets, pharmacies, and municipal libraries scattered through the neighborhoods. For leisure, there are several parks such as Bahariye District Garden (just below Pierre Loti Hill) and Göktürk Nature Park up north. The Golden Horn coastal road itself is lined with picnic areas and playgrounds.

Culturally, the district hosts conservative yet rich traditions: there are Mevlevi (whirling dervish) lodges, a historic Armenian cemetery (Fener), and even a mosque built for the Dominican nuns centuries ago (the Şemsi Paşa Mosque). The Pierre Loti cable car and hill are part of the local identity. Annual religious festivals (for example on Eid al-Adha or Mawlid) draw large crowds to the Eyüp Mosque, and the city government often markets Eyüpsultan as family-friendly and traditional. Even nighttime life is calm – expect neighborhood tea gardens, perhaps a meyhane (tavern) or two, but nothing like Beyoğlu’s clubs.

Real Estate. In a broad sense, Eyüpsultan is considered a central yet affordable area of Istanbul. It’s certainly cheaper than the pricier districts like Beşiktaş, Şişli or Bebek. That said, prices vary widely by location. A new apartment near Göktürk might cost twice what a drab old flat near Eyüp Mosque does. In general, you can get more square footage for your money here than near Taksim or the Asian side. Many expatriates and Turkish families choose to live in Eyüpsultan for its relative quiet, access to nature (forests up north), and still-good transit links to the city center.

Community Feel. Perhaps the greatest draw is the feeling of community. Eyüp’s population includes retirees who have lived here all their lives, middle-class Anatolian families, and students from nearby universities. It is common for shopkeepers to know their customers by name. On Fridays after prayers, neighbors congregate around the fountains and tea gardens. There are cultural centers attached to some mosques that run courses and summer camps for kids. People of different backgrounds (Turks, Arabs, some Caucasians) generally get along quietly; the dominant culture is devout Muslim but with the casual warmth typical of Turkey.

For the curious long-term visitor or new resident, Eyüpsultan offers a surprisingly easy introduction to local culture. You will find that municipal services (bus, clinic, markets) are up to date, and yet nothing here feels contrived for tourism. In fact, as one local brochure notes, Eyüpsultan’s cost of living tends to be lower than the more touristy parts of Istanbul. Public transport is excellent (see next section), and even entertainment venues like the Isfanbul theme park or waterfront ferries are close enough. All told, living in Eyüpsultan means balancing a slow, family-oriented pace with full access to Istanbul’s broader city life.

Practical Tips for a Flawless Visit to Eyüpsultan

  • Best Time to Visit: Eyüpsultan is pleasant year-round, but spring (April–June) and autumn (September–November) stand out. The weather is mild, and the light at sunrise or sunset is magical on the Golden Horn. Summer can be hot and crowded (especially around mosque festivals), and winter can be chilly with occasional rain. If possible, avoid weekends if you prefer fewer crowds; local tourists (often from Ankara or Anatolia) flock here then, especially around the mosque and café. Ramadan can be a spiritually rich time to visit – the streets fill with iftar tables and night prayers – but some attractions may have altered hours.
  • Dress Code and Etiquette: Eyüpsultan is more conservative than tourist areas. For visiting the mosque or any religious site, women should cover head and shoulders (scarf) and wear long skirts or pants; men should avoid shorts. Inside the mosque, cameras should be silent during prayers and respectful of worshippers’ space. Always remove shoes when entering the prayer hall. Aside from the mosque, everyday dress on the streets tends to be modest: you’ll see many women in hijab and men in long trousers. It’s wise to follow local cues: if unsure, observe how local women are dressed. There is no requirement for foreigners to wear headscarves outside the mosque, but covering up (especially shoulders) is seen as courteous.
  • Safety: Eyüpsultan is generally very safe. It is a residential district with little violent crime or pickpocketing. The biggest caution is typical city awareness: watch your belongings in crowded bazaars or on packed buses. After dark, most areas are quiet and should still feel safe to tourists; however, very late at night the streets beyond the main square can be deserted. Standard precautions (avoid unlit back alleys, keep belongings close) are enough. Taxi drivers in Eyüpsultan are usually honest, but it’s wise to have Istanbulkart for transit instead of relying on changing money with drivers.
  • Local Customs: Turkish hospitality thrives here. If you visit a small shop, expect the owner to invite you for tea. Tipping in restaurants is customary (about 5–10% of the bill), though not expected at simple tea houses. In shops, it’s polite but not necessary to bargain on any item except perhaps carpets or jewelry. It is absolutely not required to give money to the beggars you may see around the mosque – most are disabled veterans; a polite refusal is fine.
  • Getting Around: Once in Eyüpsultan, most sights are within 10–15 minutes of each other on foot, as the core is compact. Wear comfortable shoes for cobblestones and hills. If you are traveling with luggage or mobility concerns, taxis or minibuses (dolmuş) can take you directly to hilly points like Pierre Loti. The Eyüp–Alibeyköy tram line (T5) now connects the waterfront to major bus lines farther out, making it easy to reach the district from across the city. Don’t forget to swipe your Istanbulkart when boarding buses, trams, and ferries to stay cashless.
  • Language and Assistance: English is not widely spoken here, especially compared to touristy Sultanahmet. A few shopkeepers or café owners may manage basic phrases, but many will not. Learning a handful of Turkish greetings and numbers is helpful. Fortunately, pointing at items (baklava, çay, etc.) usually works fine. Most signs around the mosque and parks have both Turkish and English. If you need help, look for younger people or official guidance booths at ferry terminals, who often can assist with English.

Eyüpsultan for Families: A Guide to Kid-Friendly Fun

Eyüpsultan is unexpectedly family-friendly compared to many Istanbul districts. Parents regularly bring young children to its parks, attractions, and festivals. Here are some highlights for families:

  • Cable Car Adventure: Children love the novelty of the Eyüpsultan cable car. Riding in the gondola feels like a mini-mountain ride, and the steep climb keeps the little ones excited. The sensation of zipping up the hill is thrilling, and the panoramic platform at the top has space to run and take photos.
  • Isfanbul (Vialand) Theme Park: Just north of Eyüpsultan in the Alibeyköy area is Isfanbul, Turkey’s largest theme park. Covering about 600,000 m², it features dozens of rides and attractions for all ages (from gentle carousels and a small zoo for little kids, to roller coasters and water slides for teens). Families often spend a whole day here. Entrance fees vary by season and package, but the sheer scale of activities makes it one of the most visited places by Turkish families. There are also shopping and dining zones inside, so even if your child isn’t a ride-lover, the spectacle and indoor shows (like 5D cinema) can entertain.
  • Playgrounds and Parks: Near the mosque complex there are open squares and parks where children can play. The Waterfront Park along the Golden Horn (north toward Tersane) has playground equipment. For something more natural, the wooded trails of Miniatürk Park (an open-air miniature city park) or the Belgrad Forest (a bit farther out) are accessible for families with older kids by car or tour.
  • Sweet Treats: Kids will enjoy trying lokma (doughnut holes soaked in syrup) or a cone of granita (slush ice) in summer. Many tea gardens have wicker chairs that children can borrow to climb up and watch boats below.
  • Educational Visits: Visiting the Eyüp Sultan Mosque itself can be an educational experience for older children, illustrating Ottoman history and Islamic culture. The wordless reverence in the tomb area can teach respect for other traditions. If you find a guided tour of the cemetery (sometimes offered locally), it can double as a history lesson about Ottoman daily life and symbolism.
  • Caution: Eyüpsultan’s narrow streets have traffic and occasional stray dogs, so keep young children close. Also, if you plan to spend long hours out, note that many parks and squares have few restroom facilities; major cafes will allow use of their toilets with purchase.

Overall, Eyüpsultan’s combination of green spaces, gentle rides, and cultural sights make it a pleasant district for family outings. Many Turkish families simply make a day-trip here for the cable car and picnic by the Golden Horn, so you’ll find it a welcoming environment for children.

Architectural Marvels Beyond the Main Mosque

Even beyond the Eyüp Sultan Mosque, Eyüpsultan holds a surprisingly rich collection of historic architecture. Here are a few not to miss:

Zal Mahmud Pasha Mosque

As noted, this 16th-century mosque by Mimar Sinan is a gem. It stands a few blocks north of Eyüp Square on Ebussuud Caddesi, easily walkable. Unlike the grand scale of Sinan’s Süleymaniye, this one is intimate: a single large dome and one minaret above a square stone base. The interior is warmly decorated in frescoes with many İznik tile panels around the mihrab. Its courtyard contains a simpler tomb. Photography here is allowed when not too crowded.

Küçükfırın Street and Historic Houses

Stroll along Küçükfırın Caddesi, just northwest of the mosque, to see rows of 19th-century Ottoman wooden houses (restored in places). Some have ornate wooden lattice windows and painted facades. They evoke how Eyüp looked in the late Ottoman era. Many are now cafés or inns with stairs leading up. They sit beside more modern buildings, illustrating Eyüp’s layering of time.

Fountains and Sebils

Scattered around the square and surroundings are historic fountains (çeşme) where cold water flows from sculpted spouts. One example is the Abdi Pasha Fountain (located near Eyüp Sultan metro stop), an Ottoman-era octagonal fountain with inscriptions. While not as famous as Istanbul’s Blue Mosque fountains, they add charm. Look for small “sebil” (kiosk-fountain) like the one near Gate D that was a public water distribution point.

These lesser-known sites delight architecture enthusiasts who take the time to look beyond the main attractions. Eyüpsultan’s skyline of domes and minarets hides many more secrets once you start exploring alley by alley.

Planning Your Perfect Day in Eyüpsultan: Sample Itineraries

Depending on your interests and available time, here are a few ways to structure your visit:

  • Half-Day Pilgrim’s Itinerary: Start early at the Eyüp Sultan Mosque (spend 1–2 hours exploring the mosque, türbe, and cemetery). Climb the Eyüp cable car and enjoy breakfast or coffee at Pierre Loti Cafe (1 hour). Walk back down via the cemetery path. Conclude with a stroll and shopping in the Eyüp Bazaar (30 min) and lunch of kebab or pide nearby. This covers the spiritual highlights.
  • Leisurely Explorer (Full Day): Morning: Eyüp Sultan Mosque, Türbe, and Cülüs Yolu. Late Morning: Cable car and Pierre Loti Hill (drink and relax). Afternoon: Lunch in Eyüp, then visit Zal Mahmud Pasha Mosque and the Russian Orthodox Church of St. John the Baptist (on the hill). Early Evening: Ferry from Eyüp to Karaköy, then short walk to Istiklal or Sultanahmet, connecting sights.
  • Family Day (Full): Morning: Cable car up (thrill for kids) and park play on the hill. Midday: Walk through the Eyüp Cemetery on way down, have lunch of gözleme (savory crepes) at a café. Afternoon: Head to Isfanbul Theme Park for rides and water slides (hours vary by season). Evening: Return to Eyüp for dinner of kebab or köfte.

No matter the plan, leave some flexibility for spontaneous discoveries (an artisan shop, a hidden courtyard, a bakery aroma). The slower pace of Eyüpsultan means enjoying each moment – a tea break by the water, a photo at sunset – is part of the joy.

Frequently Asked Questions about Eyüpsultan

Is Eyüpsultan worth visiting? Absolutely. It provides a blend of Turkish religious heritage and authentic neighborhood life. If you value history, scenic views, and local flavor, you’ll find Eyüpsultan highly rewarding.

What is the history of the Eyüp Sultan Mosque? Commissioned by Mehmet II in 1458 atop the tomb of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari, it has been rebuilt and expanded over time. The present building dates largely from 1800, combining Ottoman and Baroque styles.

Who is buried in Eyüp Sultan Mosque? Abu Ayyub al-Ansari (Eyüp Sultan) is entombed there, believed to have died during the 7th-century Arab siege of Constantinople.

Is there a dress code for Eyüp Sultan Mosque? Yes. Visitors must be modestly dressed: women cover heads and wear long sleeves/skirts; men should avoid shorts. All must remove shoes.

What are the opening hours for Eyüp Sultan Mosque? It is open daily from dawn until dusk, closing only for short periods during each call to prayer. Check local schedules (prayer times) – typically the grounds close about half an hour before each prayer.

How to get to Eyüpsultan from Sultanahmet? The most scenic route is via the Golden Horn ferry to Eyüp Pier. Alternatively, take the T5 tram line from Eminönü to “Eyüpsultan-Teleferik”. Several buses (like 47/A or 48E) run from Taksim and Eminönü to Eyüp, often on 15–20 min schedules.

Is Eyüpsultan safe? Yes. It is considered a low-crime area. Petty theft is extremely rare here. As with any city, stay aware of your surroundings, but you can feel confident walking around day or night in the main parts of the district.

Are there women-only sections at the mosque? No, Eyüp Sultan Mosque’s prayer hall is mixed. Women typically pray in the back section of the hall (sometimes reached by a wooden ramp), or upstairs at balcony level. There is no special women’s entrance – everyone enters through the courtyard and walks in.

Are there entrance fees? No, both the Eyüp Sultan Mosque and most other sites in the district (like cemeteries and Zal Mahmud Pasha Mosque) have free admission. If you take the cable car, that ticket must be purchased, but the mosque itself is free.

Can you visit the tomb of Eyüp Sultan inside the mosque? The tomb chamber can be viewed only from outside; one cannot enter the small mausoleum itself. Pilgrims press hands on its outer metal lattice and pray there, but generally visitors see it through the fence.

What is the best way to spend an evening in Eyüpsultan? Many locals enjoy having tea or a light dinner on Pierre Loti Hill as night falls. Back in Eyüp Square, the restaurants by the mosque may be closed, but the tea gardens on the waterfront (near Eyüp Pier) come alive with families and tea, lighting into the night. For a completely local evening, just find a café with a view and sip apple tea while the city lights reflect on the Golden Horn.

These answers, and all the guidance above, aim to make your trip to Eyüpsultan as smooth and enriching as possible.

Conclusion: Why Eyüpsultan Deserves a Place on Your Istanbul Itinerary

In modern Istanbul, few places capture the city’s fusion of history, spirituality, and daily life as completely as Eyüpsultan. It is a district where the echo of the Ottoman past lingers in stone, yet where the bus driver, the tea-house owner, and the local schoolchildren make each day ordinary and welcoming. As we have explored above, Eyüpsultan’s appeal lies in its contrasts: holy mosque versus lively markets; golden panorama versus mossy tombs; solemn pilgrimage versus casual coffee sips. There is a completeness here – you sense both continuity with centuries of tradition and the vitality of a real neighborhood.

For visitors who seek not just “sights” but significance, Eyüpsultan rewards with subtlety and depth. It requires slowing down, looking at details, and engaging respectfully. But for those willing, it offers many perspectives on Istanbul: a spiritual one in the quiet devotion at the türbe, a romantic one from the heights of Pierre Loti, and an everyday one in its eclectic bazaars and cafés.

Eyüpsultan is truly an “ultimate” destination – not as a gimmick, but as an essential part of Istanbul’s soul. Whether you come for the history, the view, the food, or simply the adventure of stepping off the beaten path, Eyüpsultan will greet you with an unhurried warmth. At day’s end, after the muezzin’s last call, you’ll leave with a deeper understanding of Istanbul’s tapestry – and perhaps a little more of that tranquility and devotion woven into your own day.

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