Nestled along the storied waters of the Golden Horn on Istanbul’s European side, Eyüpsultan is a district where the city’s deep past meets its everyday present. This neighborhood grew around a mosque and tomb of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari, a revered companion of the Prophet Muhammad, giving it an aura of sanctity that sets it apart from Istanbul’s more secular quarters. But Eyüpsultan is far more than a single holy site. It is a tapestry of Ottoman-era cemeteries and historical mosques, lively cafés clinging to a pine-covered hillside, traditional markets and sweet shops, and leafy waterfront promenades. Its combination of solemn heritage and down-to-earth neighborhood life makes it a “must-visit” for travelers seeking an authentic slice of Istanbul beyond the tourist crowds. In this guide, we will explore Eyüpsultan’s history and highlights – from the Eyüp Sultan Mosque and Pierre Loti Hill to local cuisine, transport tips, and hidden gems – illuminating why this neighborhood is both sacred and vibrantly alive.
Eyüpsultan (often still called simply “Eyüp” by locals) is a sprawling municipality and district of Istanbul that stretches from the inner mouth of the Golden Horn all the way northward to the Bosphorus and the Black Sea. Its heart is the historic Eyüp neighborhood, a place with roots reaching back to Byzantine times, once known as Kosmidion. By the Ottoman era the district’s character was sealed: in 1458 Sultan Mehmed II (“Fatih Sultan Mehmet”) built a mosque complex here on the grave of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari, who had died during the Arab siege of Constantinople. The district was renamed Eyüpsultan by the Ottomans in honor of this holy burial site.
Eyüpsultan today feels like a bridge between eras. On one hand it is one of the most sacred corners of Istanbul – Muslim pilgrims have long come here to pray at Eyüp Sultan Mosque and its türbe (mausoleum) of the saintly companion of the Prophet. For centuries, new Ottoman sultans even held an accession ceremony here: they would process up the “Cülüs Yolu” from the mosque and be girded with the Sword of Osman before entering Istanbul to rule. (That “Accession Road” is still today a tree-lined lane of Ottoman tombs.)
On the other hand, Eyüpsultan is undeniably a living, breathing neighborhood. Its narrow streets are lined with small shops, bakeries, and cafés; families live in modest apartment blocks above tea houses; fishermen below cast lines into the Golden Horn; and children play amid the olive trees of ancient cemeteries. One long-time resident describes the district as “where tradition meets daily life” – a place of old-time façades and minarets under which everyday modern Istanbul unfolds. That dual identity – deeply historic and prayerful, yet grounded and accessible – gives Eyüpsultan a special charm. It is not just a museum quarter but a genuine community, making it worth visiting not only for its past but for its present.
Despite being off the beaten path, Eyüpsultan is easy to reach (see our Transport section). It sits only a few kilometers from Sultanahmet and Beyoğlu, yet retains a quieter, more local pace. The Golden Horn coast is lined with parks and tea gardens, and from high points like Pierre Loti Hill one can see the familiar Istanbul skyline – mosques, minarets, and all. In short, Eyüpsultan offers a “best of both worlds”: some of Istanbul’s oldest, holiest heritage alongside the flavors and rhythms of everyday Turkish life. Few other Istanbul districts evoke both the sacred and the vibrant so completely, making this area a must-visit for curious travelers and worshippers alike.
Eyüp Sultan Mosque is the district’s beating heart – a vast courtyard and domed mosque complex built to honor Abu Ayyub al-Ansari (Eyüp Sultan), who is said to lie buried here. This site is among the holiest in Turkey. According to legend, the Ottomans only learned of the tomb’s location after Sultan Mehmed II’s teacher, the saint Akşemseddin, had a dream revealing its spot. Five years after conquering Constantinople, Mehmed ordered a complex built atop the grave, hoping to blend Istanbul’s new Islamic identity with Ottoman imperial prestige.
The original 15th-century mosque soon became part of official Ottoman coronation rites. New sultans would arrive here before entering the city to be girded with the Sword of Osman. In that ritual they followed the shaded Cülüs Yolu (“Accession Way”), a ceremonial boulevard stretching from the Eyüp complex to the Golden Horn shore. Today the Cülüs Yolu survives as an evocative alley lined with monumental tombstones and cypress trees, a tangible link to that bygone ceremony.
Over time the mosque building itself underwent change. The first structure was heavily damaged by earthquakes, so Sultan Selim III ordered it rebuilt in the late 18th century. By 1800 a new mosque rose on the site, featuring a graceful ensemble of domes and slender minarets. Its design blends classical Ottoman forms with later Baroque touches that had begun to influence Turkish architecture by that era. Inside, the main prayer hall shelters worshippers under a vast central dome ringed by sixteen smaller domes, all resting on thick marble pillars. The walls and mihrab (prayer niche) glint with İznik tiles in vivid blues and greens, some dating back to earlier Ottoman periods.
Adjacent to the mosque is the Eyüp Sultan Türbesi – the shrine and tomb of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari. Devotees step into this courtyard with reverence, often placing coins on the tomb’s ornate dome or whispering prayers. While the tomb chamber is closed to casual photography, its exterior and surrounding walls are covered in richly painted tiles and inscriptions. The air here feels solemn yet peaceful; soft daylight filters through stained-glass, and the fragrance of incense drifts at times. Visiting the türbe is considered a deeply spiritual experience by many Muslim visitors, who see it as a direct connection to the early Islamic era.
For non-Muslim visitors the Eyüp Sultan Mosque complex still offers a moving glimpse into Ottoman Islam. The prayer hall (open except during services) impresses with its sweeping architecture, and the courtyard lined with ancient sycamores is serene. There are several areas to explore: one can climb a wooden ramp to stand at the women’s prayer gallery, trace the patterns of hand-painted tiles, or gaze at the traditional wooden minbar (pulpit) inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Many describe the feeling as unlike any other Istanbul mosque: it is simultaneously grand and humble, reflecting both the imperial ambition of Mehmet II and the ascetic piety of the tomb’s saint.
Practical Visiting Tips. The mosque welcomes visitors of all faiths year-round. Admission is free, and opening hours extend throughout the day (except during the first minute of each call to prayer, when the doors close briefly). Visitors must wear modest clothing and women should cover hair and shoulders, as with any mosque: long trousers or skirts and covered heads are required for entry. Scarves are often available at the entrance. Everyone must remove shoes before entering. As one guide advises, “Sacred thresholds welcome souls freely, without monetary demands. Modest garments honor these hallowed spaces.” Visitors should also note that photography is discouraged during prayer and inside the tomb; if in doubt, ask a staff member or worshipper.
The quiet ambiance and gravity of the site can make time pass slowly. For an optimal experience, many locals and guidebooks suggest arriving in the cooler morning or late afternoon, especially outside the high summer season. (In fact, mild spring and autumn months are reputedly the best times, when sunlight slants across the Golden Horn and the courtyard stays pleasantly cool.) When prayers are not underway, one can linger amid the tiled fountains and marble benches in the courtyard or step onto the platform outside the tomb’s dome to look out at the city.
From the foot of Eyüpsultan’s historic core, a forested hill rises 70 meters above the Golden Horn. Atop it is Pierre Loti Hill, crowned by a quaint 19th-century café named after a French novelist. This vantage point has long been one of Istanbul’s most romantic. When the French writer Pierre Loti (born Louis Marie Viaud) lived in Istanbul in the late 1800s, he would often retreat here to soak in the view – so much so that locals began informally calling the spot “Pierre Loti’s hill.” Legend holds that he bought a salmon-colored fez from a street vendor and wore it whenever he worked at the hilltop café, inscribing its name forever in local memory. In his novel Aziyadé (set in Istanbul), Loti wrote of “the whole of Stamboul foreshortened, mosques, domes, and minarets, all huddled together in one confused blur,” capturing the dizzying sweep of the panorama.
Today the high bluff, with its cozy wooden terrace and clattering tea service, remains a magnet for romantics, photographers, and anyone craving a different perspective on Istanbul. From Pierre Loti Hill one sees the Golden Horn curving out to the north, with the edge of the historic peninsula, its mosques and narrow streets, on one side, and the outskirts of the city on the other. On clear days the urban skyline seems condensed: you spot the silhouette of Süleymaniye and Yeni Mosque across the horn, and the neighborhoods of Fatih and Beyoğlu sparkling under late sun. Sunset here is famed – as twilight descends, the domes glow, streetlights start to flicker, and the Golden Horn’s waters turn gold. This “captivating vista” is nothing like the Bosphorus view from the bridges or hills on the Asian side. Instead, it offers a “uniquely different” tableau: peaceful harbors, lush hillsides, and a closer, more intimate cityscape studded with minarets.
At the very top sits the Pierre Loti Café itself, a two-story wooden tea house overlooking the bay. Its indoor tables are air-conditioned, but most visitors prefer the outdoor garden, where foxgloves and geraniums bloom on wooden railings. The menu is simple: tea, strong Turkish coffee, and light snacks like gözleme (thin omelet-wrapped flatbread). But the real specialty is the view: guests linger for hours nursing a small cup of çay and nibbling on baklava or stuffed figs as ferries and kedi (boat) traffic traverse the water far below. There is a small museum area inside displaying old photographs of Loti and historic photos of the café. As one travel writer notes, “visiting is something of a pilgrimage” for literature buffs and romantics.
Getting to this lofty spot itself is part of the fun. From the mosque complex in Eyüpsultan, you have a few choices:
Once at the summit, the beloved Pierre Loti Café beckons. In fine weather its garden is thronged with local families and young couples, especially on weekends. The staff set out trays of tulip-shaped tea glasses and plates of baklava, lokma (syrup donuts) or tahinli pide (sesame pastry). The cups may be small, but the view is enormous: one terrace area is even dubbed “Nazım Hikmet’s Table,” after the famous poet who liked to sit at the very edge.
If all shaded seats in the café are occupied, do not despair: there is a viewpoint area just past the terrace with benches and even a telescope. Locals will often encourage newcomers to “go up there” for a truly unbroken panorama. In autumn months the views can be especially clear. Rainy days are subdued but atmospheric: emerald fog sometimes drapes the Golden Horn while the café’s roof and heaters offer snug shelter.
No matter the season, the café’s vibe is always laid-back. Children dart around chasing pigeons; elders press their hands into prayer beads as they sip thick coffee; couples hold hands on park benches. It feels, in many ways, like being in a vast open-air living room with the whole of Istanbul laid out before you. As one writer put it, sipping tea here is “far from macabre” despite the cemetery – in fact, the juxtaposition of graves and tea tables is part of the hill’s charm.
Eyüpsultan is well-connected by Istanbul’s transit network, but navigating it calls for some orientation. Travelers approaching from central Istanbul should note which side of the Golden Horn they’re on and choose a route accordingly:
No matter which route you choose, you’ll arrive in a district that starts at sea level by the water and quickly climbs into hills. Be prepared for some uphill walking if you plan to see the mosque, the cemetery pathways, or the cable car.
Eyüpsultan is not a polished showcase but an old neighborhood with layers of history visible in every corner. Beyond the major sights above, its backstreets and tombyards are themselves attractions:
Just behind the mosque and beneath Pierre Loti hill lies the vast Eyüp Cemetery, sometimes called the “City of the Dead.” It is possibly the largest Ottoman burial ground still visible in Istanbul. Wandering here is like stepping into an Ottoman painting: the ground is carpeted with uncut grasses and trees, and everywhere are marble stele carved in classical Ottoman art. One finds both grand mausoleums and simple headstones: the wealthy often erected miniature domes and columns over their graves, while others simply have intricately carved stones. Patterns include tulips, stars, Qur’anic verses, and dates inscribed in old Ottoman Turkish. The sheer number of graves is humbling – one estimate is that hundreds of thousands of people are buried here, layered through generations. Among the mourners’ trails, look for novelty: some trees still bear old Ottoman foundations of guardian shrines. Photography (respectfully) captures the blend of nature and stone – golden sunset light on white marble, or morning mist threading between cypresses.
As mentioned, the Cülüs Yolu (Accession Road) was a ceremonial boulevard. Today only parts of its stones and gateway fragments remain. The most intact section runs behind the mosque from Gate C to the gate of the Eyüp Cemetery. It is marked by a surviving city gate called ”Burmalı Kilise Kapısı” (Spiral Gate) and an Ottoman Külliye fountain, which once cooled arriving dignitaries. Now it’s a quiet path flanked by cinderblock shops and local houses. Walking it, one can imagine the Sultans’ horse-drawn processions. Small museums along it – such as the Russian Orthodox Pierre Loti Church dedicated to the martyr saint Panteleimon – hint at the later multicultural chapters of Eyüpsultan.
Away from the main mosque compound, the neighborhood unfolds in an organic grid. Turn down any narrow lane and you’ll find a neighborhood coffee shop or a courtyard fountain. In Camiatik (around the historic mansions) are some classic wooden Ottoman houses with latticed windows and wrought-iron balconies. A few hidden gems might include little 19th-century fountains decorated with calligraphy, or small tekkes (Sufi lodges) tucked between apartment blocks. The pedestrianized Şemsi Paşa Caddesi is a lively bazaar street with butchers, grocers, and dessert shops. In most neighborhoods of Istanbul the local markets reflect local tastes: here you might spot a shop selling olive wood crafts or traditional takke (prayer hats).
Walking around in late afternoon or early evening, one sees families walking home carrying shopping bags, men playing backgammon at tea gardens, and fathers teaching their children to say es-selamün aleyküm at the mosque doors. Eyüpsultan is known among locals as an “introverted” or conservative area (in contrast to the trendier districts), so outwardly the atmosphere can feel calm and respectful. But one does get a genuine slice of Istanbul life: mothers in headscarves laden with groceries, teenagers hanging out sipping ayran, and old men in flat caps smoking nargile on stoops.
While Eyüpsultan is not a gourmet hotspot, it has a solid Turkish food scene rooted in tradition. Local tastes lean towards hearty Anatolian fare and sweet treats – think of it as comfort food in an Ottoman kitchen setting.
Most dining in Eyüpsultan is casual. There are no 5-star restaurants as such, but plenty of beloved local joints:
Breakfast spots worth mention:
In general, eating in Eyüp is about local flavor and value: most meals cost very little by European standards, often under 100 TRY per person for a generous meal including salad and water. Tipping a small amount (5-10%) is customary but not mandatory at casual places.
Eyüpsultan is more known for its historical market ambiance than for high-end shopping. However, it offers a satisfying variety for those who enjoy wandering through bazaars and minor shopping streets:
Around the mosque and Eyüp Square, you’ll find a labyrinth of covered arcades and streets full of small shops. These include:
If you crave more modern shops, there are nearby malls and centers reachable by a short ride:
In general, shopping in Eyüpsultan is best done for character goods and local souvenirs. If you want modern fashion or high-end brands, you’re better off in Taksim or Etiler. But for atmospheric browsing – the warren of textile shops, copperware, and spice stalls – Eyüpsultan has an old-town appeal. Enjoy the scene: shopkeepers often sit chatting outside stores, and the sense of tradition is palpable, even as the shops keep the neon signboard-hum of modern commerce.
For visitors curious about what it’s like to stay long-term or even settle here, Eyüpsultan offers a mix of old and new. The atmosphere feels more provincial than hyper-urban. Many parts of Eyüp are green, with parks and open space along the Golden Horn and further north toward Bahçeköy. The pace is unhurried; families often stroll together at twilight.
In recent years Eyüpsultan has also seen development: new apartment complexes and gated communities have risen on its northern fringes (especially around Göktürk and Kemerburgaz). These offer modern condos, sometimes with pools and gyms, and draw wealthier residents. However, the historical core around Eyüp square remains mostly mid-century apartment blocks and the original Ottoman-era buildings. Thus one finds a range of housing: from cheap, small flat rentals by long-time residents to luxury villas deeper north. (A general market indication: the median sale price of apartments in the district is in the mid-tens of thousands of Turkish lira per square meter, much lower than central Istanbul.)
Amenities and Lifestyle. Eyüpsultan boasts a remarkably strong infrastructure for everyday life. The district has numerous schools (including international and religious schools), universities (Haliç University campus is in Alibeyköy, just south of Eyüp), hospitals (e.g. Eyüp Sultan Public Hospital and several private clinics), and public facilities. You will see many supermarkets, pharmacies, and municipal libraries scattered through the neighborhoods. For leisure, there are several parks such as Bahariye District Garden (just below Pierre Loti Hill) and Göktürk Nature Park up north. The Golden Horn coastal road itself is lined with picnic areas and playgrounds.
Culturally, the district hosts conservative yet rich traditions: there are Mevlevi (whirling dervish) lodges, a historic Armenian cemetery (Fener), and even a mosque built for the Dominican nuns centuries ago (the Şemsi Paşa Mosque). The Pierre Loti cable car and hill are part of the local identity. Annual religious festivals (for example on Eid al-Adha or Mawlid) draw large crowds to the Eyüp Mosque, and the city government often markets Eyüpsultan as family-friendly and traditional. Even nighttime life is calm – expect neighborhood tea gardens, perhaps a meyhane (tavern) or two, but nothing like Beyoğlu’s clubs.
Real Estate. In a broad sense, Eyüpsultan is considered a central yet affordable area of Istanbul. It’s certainly cheaper than the pricier districts like Beşiktaş, Şişli or Bebek. That said, prices vary widely by location. A new apartment near Göktürk might cost twice what a drab old flat near Eyüp Mosque does. In general, you can get more square footage for your money here than near Taksim or the Asian side. Many expatriates and Turkish families choose to live in Eyüpsultan for its relative quiet, access to nature (forests up north), and still-good transit links to the city center.
Community Feel. Perhaps the greatest draw is the feeling of community. Eyüp’s population includes retirees who have lived here all their lives, middle-class Anatolian families, and students from nearby universities. It is common for shopkeepers to know their customers by name. On Fridays after prayers, neighbors congregate around the fountains and tea gardens. There are cultural centers attached to some mosques that run courses and summer camps for kids. People of different backgrounds (Turks, Arabs, some Caucasians) generally get along quietly; the dominant culture is devout Muslim but with the casual warmth typical of Turkey.
For the curious long-term visitor or new resident, Eyüpsultan offers a surprisingly easy introduction to local culture. You will find that municipal services (bus, clinic, markets) are up to date, and yet nothing here feels contrived for tourism. In fact, as one local brochure notes, Eyüpsultan’s cost of living tends to be lower than the more touristy parts of Istanbul. Public transport is excellent (see next section), and even entertainment venues like the Isfanbul theme park or waterfront ferries are close enough. All told, living in Eyüpsultan means balancing a slow, family-oriented pace with full access to Istanbul’s broader city life.
Eyüpsultan is unexpectedly family-friendly compared to many Istanbul districts. Parents regularly bring young children to its parks, attractions, and festivals. Here are some highlights for families:
Overall, Eyüpsultan’s combination of green spaces, gentle rides, and cultural sights make it a pleasant district for family outings. Many Turkish families simply make a day-trip here for the cable car and picnic by the Golden Horn, so you’ll find it a welcoming environment for children.
Even beyond the Eyüp Sultan Mosque, Eyüpsultan holds a surprisingly rich collection of historic architecture. Here are a few not to miss:
As noted, this 16th-century mosque by Mimar Sinan is a gem. It stands a few blocks north of Eyüp Square on Ebussuud Caddesi, easily walkable. Unlike the grand scale of Sinan’s Süleymaniye, this one is intimate: a single large dome and one minaret above a square stone base. The interior is warmly decorated in frescoes with many İznik tile panels around the mihrab. Its courtyard contains a simpler tomb. Photography here is allowed when not too crowded.
Stroll along Küçükfırın Caddesi, just northwest of the mosque, to see rows of 19th-century Ottoman wooden houses (restored in places). Some have ornate wooden lattice windows and painted facades. They evoke how Eyüp looked in the late Ottoman era. Many are now cafés or inns with stairs leading up. They sit beside more modern buildings, illustrating Eyüp’s layering of time.
Scattered around the square and surroundings are historic fountains (çeşme) where cold water flows from sculpted spouts. One example is the Abdi Pasha Fountain (located near Eyüp Sultan metro stop), an Ottoman-era octagonal fountain with inscriptions. While not as famous as Istanbul’s Blue Mosque fountains, they add charm. Look for small “sebil” (kiosk-fountain) like the one near Gate D that was a public water distribution point.
These lesser-known sites delight architecture enthusiasts who take the time to look beyond the main attractions. Eyüpsultan’s skyline of domes and minarets hides many more secrets once you start exploring alley by alley.
Depending on your interests and available time, here are a few ways to structure your visit:
No matter the plan, leave some flexibility for spontaneous discoveries (an artisan shop, a hidden courtyard, a bakery aroma). The slower pace of Eyüpsultan means enjoying each moment – a tea break by the water, a photo at sunset – is part of the joy.
Is Eyüpsultan worth visiting? Absolutely. It provides a blend of Turkish religious heritage and authentic neighborhood life. If you value history, scenic views, and local flavor, you’ll find Eyüpsultan highly rewarding.
What is the history of the Eyüp Sultan Mosque? Commissioned by Mehmet II in 1458 atop the tomb of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari, it has been rebuilt and expanded over time. The present building dates largely from 1800, combining Ottoman and Baroque styles.
Who is buried in Eyüp Sultan Mosque? Abu Ayyub al-Ansari (Eyüp Sultan) is entombed there, believed to have died during the 7th-century Arab siege of Constantinople.
Is there a dress code for Eyüp Sultan Mosque? Yes. Visitors must be modestly dressed: women cover heads and wear long sleeves/skirts; men should avoid shorts. All must remove shoes.
What are the opening hours for Eyüp Sultan Mosque? It is open daily from dawn until dusk, closing only for short periods during each call to prayer. Check local schedules (prayer times) – typically the grounds close about half an hour before each prayer.
How to get to Eyüpsultan from Sultanahmet? The most scenic route is via the Golden Horn ferry to Eyüp Pier. Alternatively, take the T5 tram line from Eminönü to “Eyüpsultan-Teleferik”. Several buses (like 47/A or 48E) run from Taksim and Eminönü to Eyüp, often on 15–20 min schedules.
Is Eyüpsultan safe? Yes. It is considered a low-crime area. Petty theft is extremely rare here. As with any city, stay aware of your surroundings, but you can feel confident walking around day or night in the main parts of the district.
Are there women-only sections at the mosque? No, Eyüp Sultan Mosque’s prayer hall is mixed. Women typically pray in the back section of the hall (sometimes reached by a wooden ramp), or upstairs at balcony level. There is no special women’s entrance – everyone enters through the courtyard and walks in.
Are there entrance fees? No, both the Eyüp Sultan Mosque and most other sites in the district (like cemeteries and Zal Mahmud Pasha Mosque) have free admission. If you take the cable car, that ticket must be purchased, but the mosque itself is free.
Can you visit the tomb of Eyüp Sultan inside the mosque? The tomb chamber can be viewed only from outside; one cannot enter the small mausoleum itself. Pilgrims press hands on its outer metal lattice and pray there, but generally visitors see it through the fence.
What is the best way to spend an evening in Eyüpsultan? Many locals enjoy having tea or a light dinner on Pierre Loti Hill as night falls. Back in Eyüp Square, the restaurants by the mosque may be closed, but the tea gardens on the waterfront (near Eyüp Pier) come alive with families and tea, lighting into the night. For a completely local evening, just find a café with a view and sip apple tea while the city lights reflect on the Golden Horn.
These answers, and all the guidance above, aim to make your trip to Eyüpsultan as smooth and enriching as possible.
In modern Istanbul, few places capture the city’s fusion of history, spirituality, and daily life as completely as Eyüpsultan. It is a district where the echo of the Ottoman past lingers in stone, yet where the bus driver, the tea-house owner, and the local schoolchildren make each day ordinary and welcoming. As we have explored above, Eyüpsultan’s appeal lies in its contrasts: holy mosque versus lively markets; golden panorama versus mossy tombs; solemn pilgrimage versus casual coffee sips. There is a completeness here – you sense both continuity with centuries of tradition and the vitality of a real neighborhood.
For visitors who seek not just “sights” but significance, Eyüpsultan rewards with subtlety and depth. It requires slowing down, looking at details, and engaging respectfully. But for those willing, it offers many perspectives on Istanbul: a spiritual one in the quiet devotion at the türbe, a romantic one from the heights of Pierre Loti, and an everyday one in its eclectic bazaars and cafés.
Eyüpsultan is truly an “ultimate” destination – not as a gimmick, but as an essential part of Istanbul’s soul. Whether you come for the history, the view, the food, or simply the adventure of stepping off the beaten path, Eyüpsultan will greet you with an unhurried warmth. At day’s end, after the muezzin’s last call, you’ll leave with a deeper understanding of Istanbul’s tapestry – and perhaps a little more of that tranquility and devotion woven into your own day.