Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi, located in the heart of Istanbul, exemplifies the city’s Ottoman heritage. Originally used as a religious school and dervish lodge, this 300-year-old monument of history encouraged spiritual illumination inside its arched chambers. It changed over ages, initially as a busy marketplace and then into its modern shape as a peaceful haven for residents and visitors looking for a real nargile (hookah).

Entering úçorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi is like going back in time. The courtyard of the medrese, with its shaded vine-laced trellises and aged stone walls, contrasts sharply with the frantic activity of the surrounding Grand Bazaar. Here the air is heavy with the aromatic tendrils of fruit-laced tobacco, curling sloppily from elaborate nargile pipes. The quiet murmur of conversation blends with the soft bubbling of water inside the hookah base to create a relaxing and friendly environment.

Although most of the customers are guys having animated conversations over their nargile, women are very welcome. For both experienced residents and curious visitors, it is a refuge where one may view the varied cultural tapestry of Istanbul. With interactions spanning Turkish, Arabic, English, and a sprinkling of other languages, the variety of customers reflects the cosmopolitan nature of the city.

Here the nargile experience is unmatched. Expertly made and presented, the tobacco, often known as tümbeki, leaves a pleasingly chilly taste on the palette. Regular freshness of the coals is guaranteed by attentive staff members, thereby enabling clients to enjoy their selected tastes for longer times. The apple and mint or rose and mint combinations are great options for people not sure what to choose since their smells gently mix to produce a pleasantly smooth pull.

Unlike other contemporary hookah bars, Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi does not provide alcohol. Rather, customers are welcomed to consume traditional Turkish tea, tastefully displayed in tulip-shaped mugs. A more luxurious indulgence, the “boomba” tea—a vivid infusion of lemon, hibiscus, and mint—offers a tempting mix of acidic and floral aromas. A beloved favorite throughout winter is salep, a creamy, cinnamon-laced drink created from orchid root, which offers a soothing counterpoint to the cold of the season.

The courtyard of the medrese is a calm haven; its ancient walls enclose an area that seems cut off from time. From here, visitors may see the shadow of a local mosque, its minarets silently guarding the night sky. There is seating both indoors and outside; heated areas guarantee comfort even in cooler months. Further adding to its mystery is the location of the institution next to an old Muslim graveyard, a moving reminder of the layered past of the city.

Perfectly situated along the tram line, the medrese spans Çemberlitaş and Beyazıt/Grand Bazaar stations. Though readily found during the day, the entrance could seem mysterious at night. Should the imposing wooden doors seem closed upon arrival, a quick knock will open this hidden gem. Open until two in the morning, it presents a rare chance to relax late into the evening surrounded in a historical and friendly environment.