Bağdat Avenue

Bağdat Avenue (Bağdat Caddesi) remains Istanbul’s preeminent Asian-side boulevard, a 14-kilometre ribbon of commerce, culture and daily life. Running east–west from Maltepe to Kadıköy, it is the longest street in the city. Often considered the Anatolian counterpart to İstiklal Avenue on the European side, Bağdat Caddesi is lined with stately plane trees, global flagship stores and cafés, and has become a focal point for shopping, dining and public celebrations. In 2025 it continues to blend the feel of a high-end shopping strip with the rhythms of local daily life. Unlike its historic European twin, Bağdat Avenue’s architecture is almost entirely 20th-century – a succession of modern façades and apartment towers rather than Ottoman-era stone buildings. Yet the avenue still carries the weight of Istanbul’s history in other ways, and its broad sidewalks and one-way traffic flow allow residents and visitors to stroll long stretches without interruption.

Quick Facts & Orientation

  • Length: Approximately 14 kilometres (8.7 miles) from east (Maltepe) to west (Kadıköy). This makes Bağdat Avenue one of the longest continuous avenues in Istanbul.
  • Districts: It passes through Kadıköy (the western end), then Suadiye, Erenköy, Göztepe, Caddebostan, Bostancı and finally Maltepe. The busiest retail stretch (about 6 km) lies between Suadiye and Caddebostan.
  • Traffic: The avenue is one-way for motor vehicles (westbound), helping to ease congestion in what is one of Istanbul’s most trafficked corridors. Wide sidewalks (now mostly rebuilt with stone tiles) handle heavy pedestrian use.
  • Name: Its name commemorates Sultan Murad IV’s 1638 Baghdad campaign. Before that, this path simply connected Constantinople to Anatolia in Byzantine and Ottoman times. Ottoman waystations and fountains once stood along it (giving names like Söğütlüçeşme and Selamiçeşme), but today the street itself is mainly one long commercial promenade.
  • Side of City: Bağdat Avenue lies entirely on the Anatolian (Asian) side of Istanbul, facing the Sea of Marmara. It complements, rather than competes with, the European-side attractions. In local terms, it is often simply called “Cadde” (“the avenue”) by residents.
  • Taxis and Rideshare: Most taxi drivers from the European side know it as “Bagdat Caddesi, Anadolu yakası”. From Taksim to Kadıköy, a taxi costs roughly 440–550 ₺ and takes about 20–25 minutes by car.
  • Open Every Day: Nearly all shops and malls on Bağdat Avenue are open seven days a week. Typical opening hours are around 10:00–22:00 (with many outlets open until 23:00), including Sundays during sale periods.

How long is Bağdat Avenue?

Bağdat Avenue extends about 14 kilometres (roughly 8.7 miles) from Maltepe in the east to Kadıköy in the west. This continuous distance makes it one of Istanbul’s longest single streets, easily walked end-to-end in a full day by a determined pedestrian (or biked in a couple of hours via the avenue’s dedicated bike lanes).

In practice, few visitors traverse the entire length in one go. Instead, people tend to explore segment by segment. The western half (Kadıköy–Caddebostan, about 6 km) is the bustling retail core, while the eastern suburbs (Caddebostan–Maltepe) are quieter and more residential. Mobile-phone maps and local signage make it straightforward to gauge distance: Kadıköy Ferry Terminal and Istanbul Toy Museum, for example, sit near the avenue’s western extremity, whereas the marina and new apartment blocks of Maltepe lie near the other end.

Which side of Istanbul is Bağdat Avenue on?

Bağdat Avenue runs along the Asian (Anatolian) side of Istanbul, parallel to the southern coastline of the city. It faces the Marmara Sea and lies directly across the water from the European districts of Fatih and Eminönü. (Even the name Bağdat recalls the eastward focus of that side of town.) Thus, when riding ferries or crossing the Bosphorus Bridge from the west, one will emerge on the Anatolian shore at Kadıköy–Üsküdar and can proceed along Bağdat Caddesi toward Maltepe.

Why is it called Bağdat Avenue?

The street’s name recalls the Ottoman sultan Murad IV and his celebrated siege of Baghdad in 1638. After conquering Baghdad (then part of Persia), Murad IV ordered the main highway leading back toward Constantinople to be named “Bağdat Road” in honor of his victory. In Turkish, “Bağdat” means Baghdad. Prior to this designation, the road had been a general Anatolian route since Byzantine times. Today, no physical trace of that Baghdad campaign remains on the street, but the name endures as a historical legacy.

Getting There & Getting Around

Bağdat Avenue is well-connected by Istanbul’s transit network. The key lines are the Marmaray commuter rail and various IETT buses/dolmuş minibuses. There is no traditional tram or metro line running along the avenue (unlike İstiklal Avenue), but major stations nearby and frequent road transport make it easy to reach.

  • Marmaray: This undersea suburban train links Kadıköy (via Ayrılıkçeşmesi) to Bostancı and beyond. Suadiye, Erenköy and Göztepe stations on the Marmaray line open directly onto side streets just a block or two from Bağdat Caddesi. Of these, Suadiye Marmaray is the closest to the avenue: it lies only about 100 meters north of the street. Guests arriving at Suadiye station can exit toward Bağdat Avenue and be at Zara or Divan Pastanesi (Caddebostan branch) in under two minutes of walking. The neighboring Erenköy stop is another popular disembarkation point—one block from the avenue near Apple’s store and the original Divan Pastanesi. Marmaray is modern and comfortable; from Central Istanbul (Yenikapı) to Suadiye takes roughly 35–40 minutes.
  • Metro (M4): Istanbul’s M4 metro line currently runs from Kadıköy to Tavşantepe (east of the island). Its closest stops are Ayrılıkçeşmesi (the Marmaray transfer at Kadıköy) and Kozyatağı, which are actually a bit north of the avenue. From Ayrılıkçeşmesi station one can reach Bağdat Caddesi in about 5–10 minutes by bus or dolmuş. In the future, an extension will link Sabiha Gökçen Airport to Kadıköy, making travel even easier.
  • From the European Side: To reach Bağdat Avenue from Taksim, Kabataş or the new Istanbul Airport (IST), travelers typically use a combination of metro and Marmaray, or take a long-distance bus. For example, one recommended route is the M2 metro from Taksim or Levent down to Yenikapı, then transfer to the Marmaray eastbound to Suadiye. This option costs about ₺49–62 and takes roughly 50 minutes. Alternatively, the IETT city bus 129T runs directly from Taksim (Beyoğlu) to Kadıköy/Üstbostancı in about 70–75 minutes. The bus is cheaper (around ₺19–25) but subject to traffic. A taxi for the same trip costs around ₺440–550 and takes ~21 minutes by road.
  • From the Airports:
    • Istanbul Airport (IST): Board the new M11 airport metro toward the city, switch at Gayrettepe to the M2 line and ride to Yenikapı, then take the Marmaray to Ayrılıkçeşmesi/Kadıköy. In practice this Metro+M2+Marmaray combination (with one or two transfers) is usually fastest and fares only about ₺17 total (with Istanbulkart). Alternatively, the Havaist shuttle buses can take you from IST to Yenikapı, Sultanahmet or Taksim, and then on to Kadıköy.
    • Sabiha Gökçen (SAW): The Havaist E-10 airport coach runs from SAW to Kadıköy in about 35–45 minutes (also requiring an Istanbulkart or ticket). There are also IETT routes (bus 16M) to Bostancı or Kadıköy. From Kadıköy, an İsbike rental or short dolmuş ride brings you to Bağdat Caddesi.
  • Local Buses and Dolmuş: Many municipal buses and shared minibuses crisscross the avenue itself (for instance, route 14B operates from Kadıköy Ferry to Suadiye). The “dolmuş” service (shared minibuses) is very popular: for example, line D34 runs between Kadıköy and Bostancı along Bağdat, filling gaps in the regular bus network. Inside Kadıköy, look for stops at Hacı Hesna Sokak or Şehitler Caddesi (for Suadiye) or at Erenköy Marmaray – all are on or adjacent to the avenue.
  • From the European Side on Foot/Cycle: While the Bosphorus Bridge now connects Europe to the Asian shore, there is no pedestrian or cycling passage across it for civilians. However, one could bicycle via the E5 road and turn into Bağdat Caddesi at Maltepe. The city has installed a continuous bike lane on Bağdat Caddesi to serve keen cyclists.
  • Driving & Parking: Bağdat Avenue is a one-way street (westbound), and driving down from east to west is possible during the day. In practice, heavy traffic is common – especially during the evening rush. Street parking is mostly paid, and side streets often have garages. For a visitor, it’s often simpler to park in an established lot or to rely on public transit.

Step-by-Step from the European Side (Eminönü/Taksim)

A common itinerary is: Taksim → Yenikapı (M2) → Marmaray → Suadiye. From Taksim, take the M2 subway to Yenikapı station (about 10–15 minutes), then transfer to the Marmaray train heading east to Suadiye. Upon exiting Suadiye, a one-block walk (east) brings you directly to Bağdat Avenue near Zara and Guess. This route takes roughly 50–60 minutes. An alternative is to catch the hourly İETT bus 129T at Taksim (Beyoğlu Köprüsü stop), which goes directly to Kadıköy/Üstbostancı in about 70 minutes (cheaper, but slower).

Direct from IST & SAW Airports

Istanbul Airport (IST): At the airport metro station (M11 line), ride to Yenikapı (transferring via the M7/M2). From Yenikapı, take the Marmaray east to Suadiye or Ayrılıkçeşmesi. Total travel time is about 40–45 minutes, costing around ₺17 with Istanbulkart. Taxis and private shuttles from IST to Kadıköy take ~40 minutes and start at ~₺310 (yellow taxi), but these fares rise into the 500–600 ₺ range at night.

Sabiha Gökçen (SAW): The Havaist E-10 shuttle connects SAW to Kadıköy (or Taksim) in under an hour. From Kadıköy, board a 15- or 34-minibus eastward to Bağdat Avenue, or transfer to Marmaray at Ayrılık. A taxi from SAW to Kadıköy costs about ₺700–850 and takes ~20 min; note that some taxi drivers add toll and luggage fees.

FAQ: Is there a tram on Bağdat Caddesi?

No. Bağdat Avenue has no tram line of its own. The nearest tram is the European-side T1 line in Sultanahmet/Beyoğlu. Instead, travel along Bağdat is handled by the Marmaray commuter rail and by buses/dolmuş vehicles. Historically, Bağdat Caddesi did have a tram line in the early Republican era (Kadıköy–Bostancı), but this was phased out by the 1960s. Today, one must use buses or the Marmaray stops (Suadiye, Erenköy, etc.) to reach points along Bağdat.

Car vs Public Transport Cost

For context, a taxi from Taksim to Bağdat Avenue (Kadıköy side) is about ₺440–550 and rideshare apps cost similarly. By contrast, an IETT bus or metro costs only about ₺19–25 using an Istanbulkart, though the journey takes longer. Driving along Bağdat from Kadıköy to Maltepe (eastward) is possible but parking is limited and tolls apply on the Bosphorus bridges. In practice, locals often mix modes: e.g. take Marmaray/S-Transit and a short cab/dolmuş for the last mile.

History in Six Acts

Bağdat Avenue’s story stretches from the Byzantine era to the present day. Its history can be told in a sequence of transformations:

  1. Roman and Byzantine Road (ancient–15th c.): The path predates the Ottomans. It began as a Roman trade route linking Constantinople with Anatolia, running from Üsküdar eastward through what are now Kadıköy and beyond. In Byzantine times it was a vital corridor for merchants and armies (often called the “Baghdad road” even then).
  2. Ottoman Caravan Route (15th–17th c.): After Mehmed II’s conquest of Istanbul (1453), the route remained crucial. It became lined with roadside han (caravanserai) and namazgah (open-air prayer spots). The Ottomans built shaded fountains (çeşme) along the way for travelers. Some neighborhoods still carry their names: Söğütlüçeşme (“Willow Fountain”), Selamiçeşme, and Çatalçeşme, referring to three fountains originally spaced along the road.
  3. Naming as Bağdat Caddesi (1638): In 1638 Sultan Murad IV captured Baghdad from the Persians. In celebration, he named the Istanbul–Baghdad route “Bağdat Yolu” (Baghdad Road). Over time, the section within the city walls became specifically “Bağdat Avenue.” The name stuck even as the actual road shifted.
  4. Ottoman Villas and Mansions (19th c.): In the late Ottoman period, the southern shore of Constantinople became fashionable. In the late 1800s Sultan Abdul Hamid II’s officials and wealthy notables began building summer retreats along Bağdat Avenue. Grand wooden mansions (yalı) sprouted amidst groves; a few survive today. The Zühtü Paşa Mosque (1885) in Kızıltoprak and the Galib Paşa Mosque (1899) in Caddebostan date from this era. Ottoman traveler accounts of the time describe the avenue flanked by orchards and fincas.
  5. Republican Modernization (1920s–1970s): After the founding of the Turkish Republic, Bağdat Avenue was rebuilt for automobiles. Cobblestones were paved over and a modest tram line operated between Kadıköy and Bostancı. Ferry-and-bus passengers would connect here to islands and resorts. Yet the western side of the Bosphorus still held most upper-class homes. Bağdat’s leafy character remained rural; even in the 1960s much of its shore was summer retreats.
  6. Bridges & Boom (1973–present): The story accelerated in the 1970s. The opening of the Bosphorus Bridge (1973) tied the Asian suburbs directly to the European business districts. Land values along Bağdat Avenue skyrocketed. By the late 20th century, its old wooden houses had mostly been demolished for high-rise condominiums. Today the avenue is unrecognizable from its pastoral past: luxury shops and sleek apartment buildings dominate. Major redevelopments in Suadiye and Caddebostan since the 2000s have even relocated coastal roads to create seaside parks. In the 2010s, small events punctuated the street’s narrative – most notably in June 2013 when thousands of protesters took Bağdat Avenue during the nationwide Gezi Park protests, reflecting its symbolic role as a community gathering place. Into the 2020s, the avenue continues to evolve, with boutique hotels, cultural centers, and public art installations adding new chapters to its story.

 

Timeline (Key Milestones)

  • Byzantine–Ottoman period: Main road from Constantinople eastward (no name).
  • 1638: Named Bağdat Yolu by Sultan Murad IV (after Baghdad’s capture).
  • Late 1800s: Lumber estates and Ottoman villas constructed (Zühtü Paşa & Galib Paşa mosques).
  • 1910s: Street paved; Kadıköy–Bostancı tram inaugurated.
  • 1973: Bosphorus Bridge opens; metropolitan sprawl leads to demolition of old villas, new residential towers.
  • 2013: Gezi protest marches gathered ~5,000 people on Bağdat Avenue.
  • 2020s: Reinvestment in parks (Göztepe Park, 60th Year) and retail; continued growth in nightlife and amenities.

What historic buildings survive?

Today only a handful of Ottoman-era buildings remain along Bağdat Avenue. The most visible are the late-19th-century mosques: Zühtü Paşa Camii (1885) at Kızıltoprak and Galib Paşa Camii (1899) at Caddebostan, both designed in Ottoman traditional styles. Near Caddebostan’s shore stands the 1906 Ragıp Paşa Yalısı, an ornate waterside mansion by architect August Jasmund (now a cultural landmark). In Suadiye, the old waterfront yalı that houses the Vakko boutique is a restored example of a 19th-century wooden villa (noted for its elaborate façade). Aside from these, most Bağdat Avenue streetfront buildings date from after World War I or later; any Ottoman-era fountains (Söğütlüçeşme etc.) themselves have vanished, though the neighborhood names persist.

Neighborhoods & Micro-Destinations

For practical exploration, Bağdat Avenue is often tackled in segments. Below we break it into five stretches, each with its own character and sights. Each sub-section includes local highlights, cafés or restaurants to consider, and a flavor of the ambiance. (All directions are westward along the avenue, unless noted.)

Kızıltoprak & Feneryolu – Gateway & Heritage

This western gateway area lies immediately beyond Kadıköy’s core. The avenue enters Kızıltoprak with modest ground-floor shops and apartment blocks. A landmark here is the Zühtü Paşa Mosque (built 1885) on Paşa Street (a short walk north of Bağdat) – one of the last Ottoman mosques on this route. Shopping is mostly local boutiques, barber shops and a few chain cafés.

  • Ambiance: A blend of working-class and middle-class residential. Side streets lead toward Kadıköy’s fish market (west) and the new metro stop at Ayrılıkçeşmesi (north).
  • Highlights:
    • Zühtü Paşa Mosque (L-triangle with old trees).
    • Small produce and spice shops along Kızıltoprak Caddesi.
    • Yüksel Pastanesi: a famous old bakery (a few blocks in) for fresh baklava and börek.
  • Eat & Drink: Early breakfast can be had at places like Çiçekpastanesi (Turkish cakes and simit) or Bayraktar Lahmacun. For lunch, Acıkhofner, a popular liver-and-kidneys restaurant nearby, serves classic Turkish mezes.
  • Nearby: The Fenerbahçe Şükrü Saracoğlu Stadium is just a few blocks northwest. (This is the home ground of Fenerbahçe S.K., whose celebrations can spill onto Bağdat Avenue on big match days.)

Caddebostan & Göztepe – Parks, Promenade & Greenery

This section represents the leafy heart of the avenue. Caddebostan (roughly spanning post-Erenköy to Maltepe) and Göztepe (central Kadıköy) are known for parks, the sea view and larger shopping plazas. The avenue here widens in places and abuts several waterfront parks.

  • Ambiance: Quite upscale and relaxed, with well-dressed crowds. In spring/summer one feels a coastal vibe, as Caddebostan Park (turning into a pedestrian promenade) runs parallel at one end. Many branches of international brands cluster around Suadiye and Göztepe.
  • Highlights:
    • Göztepe 60th Year Park: A vast green space just off the avenue (entrance near Yakamoz Sokak). It has rose gardens and a seasonal flower show, fountains and playgrounds. In 2024 it added a Kemal Sunal Museum inside its grounds, honoring the beloved actor.
    • Toy Museum (Oyuncak Müzesi): Hidden in a side street of Göztepe, this private museum (giraffe-themed lamp posts mark the entrance) is a delight for children and nostalgia seekers.
    • Caddebostan Sahili: At the far end lies Caddebostan Beach Park on the Marmara shore. It’s not directly on the boulevard but accessible via short detours. Locals go there for seaside walking or to catch ferries to the Princes’ Islands.
  • Map Cue: (A freefold map here would mark Göztepe Park, Caddebostan Beach, and the Toy Museum.)
  • Eat & Drink: Bağdat Caddesi’s only large mall, Beymen Zorlu, sits on Çeşme Street (off the avenue). Nearby eateries include Köşebaşı (Turkish grill chain) and Midpoint (international fare) in Caddebostan. For a sweet break, the artisan Marie Antoinette Chocolatier on Bağdat Caddesi offers fine desserts. During warm months, many café patios line the avenue here.
  • Photo Cue: The avenue’s plane trees arching over cafés on a sunny afternoon.

Şaşkınbakkal & Suadiye – Luxury Core

Regarded as the “upper class” stretch, Suadiye and Šaşkınbakkal form the shopping and dining epicenter of the Asian side. This is where many flagship stores, designer boutiques and chic eateries are concentrated. Wakko’s storied department store (a restored wooden mansion) lies in Suadiye, and its holiday displays are a local tradition.

  • Ambiance: Busy and cosmopolitan. People here tend to come with shopping bags or for socializing. Sidewalk cafés see fashionable crowds, and the street is lined with brand boutiques (see Shopping section). Evening brings smart casual diners out to trendier restaurants.
  • Highlights:
    • Vakko (Suadiye Branch): In a historic yalıs facade (built 1911), this luxury brand’s store is iconic. Even passersby admire its elaborate window displays, especially around New Year.
    • Shopping Strip: The blocks around Suadiye traffic light (“Suadiye Işıklar”) feature dozens of international and Turkish boutiques (see Shopping guide below).
  • Eat & Drink: A wide variety of cuisine is available. Lunch spots include BigChefs (Turkish-Western bistro chain) and Atölye Minik (fusion café). For seafood, try Cunda Balık (high-rated fish restaurant). Dessert lovers should not miss Sour&Sweet patisserie in Suadiye. Café Cadde used to be a famous haunt here (closed in 2023), but successor cafés like Strada Suadiye carry on the tradition with upscale espresso and light fare.
  • Photo Cue: Shoppers walking past upscale storefronts near Suadiye.

 

Bostancı – Ferry Hub & Nightlife Fringe

Bostancı marks the junction where the avenue meets the sea ferry terminal and metro/marmaray complex. It’s the eastern gateway for boats to the Princes’ Islands and for subway riders. Past Bostancı (toward Altıntepe/Maltepe) the avenue quiets down into local neighborhoods.

  • Ambiance: Energetic near the ferry in daytime, a little quieter east of Bostancı. The terminal area has grand buses and boats, while eateries cluster near the Şaşkınbakkal intersection just west of it. After dark, the fringes of Bostancı also host some bars and late-night cafés (though not as many as central Kadıköy).
  • Highlights:
    • Bostancı Ferry Terminal: Serves lines to Adalar (Büyükada, Kınalı, etc.) and to Kartal and Maltepe. On summer weekends expect crowds heading out to sea.
    • Nightlife: For nightlife, venues are mostly concentrated at Suadiye or Şaşkınbakkal. Bostancı’s Club Blackout (a well-known nightclub) is a little south of the avenue, but by far the party scenes center around Kadıköy Çarşı.
  • Eat & Drink: Near Bostancı Plaza (north of the boulevard) is Voi Kitchen & Bar (Mediterranean menu). Antep Ocakbaşı on Bağdat (between Suadiye and Şaşkınbakkal) serves legendary kebabs and lahmacun to-go. If strolling up Şaşkınbakkal, Konak Kebab is a local diner staple.
  • Transit Note: Here the Marmaray line terminates (for now). The new Bostancı metro (M8) to Pendik/Polatlı begins near the station.

Altıntepe to Maltepe – Local Life & Suburbs

East of Bostancı the avenue becomes more residential. The wide road continues, but the stores are smaller and the feel more relaxed. Many local schools, nursing homes and small parks lie along the last stretch.

  • Ambiance: Quieter, with more families and apartment towers. Fewer tourists venture this far east, so one sees more neighborhood shops and eateries. The coastline is visible on the right (south) if you turn off onto coastal roads.
  • Highlights: Göztepe Doğa Parkı and 60th Year Park projects extend into Altıntepe/Maltepe, giving green space. The Maltepe Coast Park (Maltepe Sahil) beyond offers seaside promenades. East-bound buses 14-15-16 continue past Maltepe.
  • Eat & Drink: The restaurants here are mostly local Turkish menus. Emirgan Sütiş at Maltepe Marina (just off Bagdat) is famous for breakfast. You’ll find doner kebab shops, simit carts and fish-and-chips stands catering to residents.

The Ultimate Shopping Playbook

Bağdat Avenue has become a premier shopping destination on Istanbul’s Asian side. Outlets range from global luxury brands to casual Turkish chains. The street’s long commercial core between Suadiye and Caddebostan is dominated by upmarket retailers – think of it as the “Fifth Avenue of Kadıköy.” Below is an updated guide to what’s on offer, from opulent boutiques to bargain hunting.

Luxury Flagships (Designer Brands & Department Stores)

The avenue hosts branches of nearly every major luxury label. Vakko Suadiye and Vakko Beymen are two iconic Turkish department stores anchoring Bağdat Avenue. Beymen’s modern multi-story store (Caddebostan) and Vakko’s classic mansion (Suadiye) are must-sees for their grandeur. Aside from these local giants, international fashion houses have flagships:

  • Louis Vuitton – their boutique opened on Bağdat in recent years, drawing long lines on launch day.
  • Chanel – a small shop tucked among other luxury labels.
  • Burberry – scarf and outerwear flagship.
  • Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger, Hugo Boss – all have prominent stores.
  • Prada, Hermès, Gucci, Fendi, Dior – have rotating pop-ups or showroom arrangements here (global and local fashion festivals often bring them in).

By and large, expect European luxury prices (e.g. a leather handbag in the thousands of dollars). However, foreign tourists can shop with a VAT refund at the airport (see Tax-Free below).

 

Turkish Designers & Local Brands

While big names dominate, Bağdat Avenue also showcases homegrown fashion. Notable Turkish brands and designers include:

  • Vakko’s own collections: Vakko started as a fashion house, and its Suadiye store sells their elegant prêt-à-porter and couture.
  • Yargıcı: A local women’s clothing chain with a retro-modern aesthetic. The store on Bagdat Caddesi has a full range of apparel and homewares.
  • Les Benjamins: An Istanbul streetwear label.
  • Network, Roman, Adil Işık: Turkish ready-to-wear brands for men and women, often seen in shopping malls along the avenue (like Göztepe’s Akasya Mall or Metropol Istanbul, which are just off Bağdat).
  • Midpoint, BigChefs: These nationwide café-restaurant brands also run boutiques selling branded gifts in outlets on Bağdat.

In general, Turkish high-street fashion (LC Waikiki, Koton, Mavi for jeans, Polo Garage, Defacto, etc.) can also be found in multiple locations. Sales periods (July/August and January/February) are a good time to pick up local brand clothing at significant discount.

Department Stores & Malls

Aside from Vakko and Beymen, there are several department-style stores and malls serving Bagdat shoppers:

  • Boyner – A multi-floor department store (Turkish chain like Bloomingdale’s). The largest branches are in Suadiye (near Maltepe entrance) and in the Goztepe Metro City mall.
  • Debenhams (formerly Marks & Spencer) – Carried furniture and fashion; its local holdings were acquired by Boyner.
  • Tepe Nautilus AVM (Mall): Technically in Kozyatağı adjacent to Bağdat, it houses dozens of international and Turkish brands (Levi’s, Zara Home, Lacoste, etc.) along with an IMAX cinema. A footbridge over the E5 highway connects Suadiye to Nautilus.
  • MetroGross: A supermarket (real-concept hypermarket for bulk goods) at Caddebostan.
  • Göztepe, Moda and Atlas Shopping Centers – Smaller shopping plazas just off Bağdat, containing jewelry stores, tech shops, and more.

Budget & Vintage Finds

Though best known for luxury, Bagdat Caddesi also has affordable options:

  • Look for discount outlets: Some outlets of Mavi or Koton are situated in Caddebostan (near E5 road).
  • Basement Sales: Occasionally, brands will hold pop-up sales in side streets. Check local mall notices.
  • Vintage/Thrift: A few second-hand clothing and antique shops dot the side roads (Caddebostan sokaklarında). These are more “hidden treasure” type finds.

FAQ Cluster: Shopping on Bağdat Avenue

  • Are prices negotiable? Generally not in branded stores and malls; items are fixed-price. Bargaining might be possible in smaller or second-hand shops, but is not common.
  • What’s a typical shopping budget? For mid-range goods (clothing, accessories), expect global prices. Local jeans may cost ₺600–1200. Designer dresses or leather goods run into thousands of lira or dollars. A safe lunch at a local café might be ₺100–200 per person. (Keep an Istanbulkart topped up for transit, since parking fees and taxis are extra.)
  • Tax-Free (VAT Refund): EU/foreign visitors can shop tax-free on purchases over a certain threshold (usually ~₺800 per invoice). Look for stores that offer “tax free shopping” desks. Keep your receipts and present them at the airport. (See Tourist Info: VAT is ~18% in Turkey, refundable on departure.)
  • Sim cards: If staying a while, mobile SIM or eSIM plans (from Turkcell/Turkiye Telekom) can be bought at kiosks on Bağdat Avenue. Data plans cost roughly $10–40 depending on data amounts (though prices are rising as of 2025).
  • Local snacks: Don’t miss a Simit (sesame bagel) from street vendors on the avenue – a hearty, cheap breakfast option (around ₺15 each). Baklava shops and gelaterias can also be found for a quick sweet treat between stores.

Food & Drink: A 48-Hour Eating Map

Bağdat Avenue’s culinary scene is as diverse as its shopping. You can spend two days eating your way down this street, sampling everything from traditional Turkish breakfasts to international cuisine. Below is a suggested pace and selection for a food-focused visit.

Day 1: From Dawn to Midnight

  • Breakfast (07:00–10:00): Start the morning like a local – tea and simit at a street corner. Later, try a sit-down traditional breakfast of menemen (scrambled eggs with tomatoes/peppers), börek and cay. Simit Sarayı (near Göztepe) or Tarihi Safranbolu Fırını (at Suadiye) are well-known chains with extensive breakfast menus.
  • Mid-Morning Café: By mid-morning, head to one of the stylish cafés. Strada Kahve (Suadiye) or Gron Coffee (Caddebostan) serve quality espresso and light sandwiches, perfect for a coffee break while watching shoppers.
  • Lunch (12:00–15:00): Turkish style lunch might be kebab, pide or grilled fish. For something iconic, visit Köşebaşı (in Şaşkınbakkal) for lahmacun and mixed grills. For seafood, Cunda Balık (Suadiye) offers mezes and fresh fish by the plateful. Midpoint (a chain) or BigChefs (bistro) provide international comfort-food options. Expect lunch in the mid-range to upscale price bracket (around ₺200–300 per person).
  • Afternoon Snack/Dessert: Around 16:00, indulge in Turkish delights. Sour&Sweet (Suadiye) or Marie Antoinette Chocolatier (Caddebostan) have exquisite cakes, baklava and artisanal gelato. Or simply grab lokma (fried sweet dough balls with syrup) from a street vendor near Bostancı.
  • Early Evening Aperitif (18:00–20:00): The avenue has a surprising number of wine-bars and pubs tucked away. Try Tabu (at Şaşkınbakkal) for cocktails, or Voi Kitchen & Bar (Caddebostan) with a Bosphorus view and small plates.
  • Dinner (20:00–23:00): The dining options expand. For Turkish fine dining, Kızılkayalar Ocakbaşı (known for kokoreç/ döner) or Ferah (Kadıköy branch of a classic fish house) are popular. Gattopardo Pizzeria in Suadiye offers authentic Italian, while Pastırmacı Hacıbey specializes in cured meats and mezes. For something fancy, Gazebo steakhouse (Caddebostan) is a local institution. Reservations are wise on weekends.
  • Late Night Bites: Some simit/ döner stands remain open for late-night snacks. Also, Pops milkshakes (Suadiye) and Caffe Nero (Caddebostan) often stay open until midnight.

Day 2: Beyond the Avenue

  • Breakfast: Try a garden café. Akasya Park (near Kozyatağı, short taxi away) or Hüsnü Şakirin Park Café in the Rose Garden (Göztepe) offer scenic breakfasts and Turkish tea in leafy settings.
  • Brunch: For a heartier second-day meal, go continental. Beylerbeyi Çınaraltı Fırını near Suadiye (famous simit shop) now has brunch boards with cheese, olives and fresh jam.
  • Lunch: Venture to smaller side-streets: Nusr-Et Burger (Şaşkınbakkal branch) for gourmet burgers, or Sasanoğlu for Ottoman kebabs.
  • Afternoon: Take a break at Caddebostan Sahili – many cafés along the waterfront provide tea/coffee with sea breezes. The quiet of the shore is a contrast to the city buzz.
  • Dinner: Experience a Turkish seafood şiş. Donerci Murat (Erenköy) is legendary for fish sandwiches and pilchard dishes. Alternatively, Ciya Sofrasi on Kadıköy Market (a taxi away) is world-famous for Anatolian mezes and kebabs (if you don’t mind a short tram ride back across the city).
  • Evening: If you missed something the first night, now’s the chance. Otherwise, slowly wind down with çay at a traditional tea garden like Çınaraltı under the old plane trees on Bağdat (near Suadiye).

Nightlife & Events Calendar

Bağdat Avenue may not rival İstiklal’s club scene, but it still offers vibrant after-dark life and hosts major events. Its broad sidewalks and outdoor cafés keep it lively until late.

  • Nightclubs & Bars: The nightlife hub is mainly in Şaşkınbakkal/Suadiye. Here are a few notable spots:
    • Club 29 (Kadife Sokak) – one of the oldest nightclubs, playing Turkish pop.
    • Pasha Club (Suadiye) – upscale spot popular with crowds.
    • Babylon – though Babylon’s iconic venues were on the European side, smaller “Babylon-like” jazz nights occasionally pop up on Bagdat in summer.
    • Live Music: Check local listings for pub concerts at venues like Nefes (Neva Bar) or at the open-air Dilek Sabancı Park by the water (summer only).
  • Is Bağdat Avenue safe at night? Generally yes. Kadıköy and its Asian districts are considered among Istanbul’s safer areas after dark. The sidewalks remain busy well into the evening, especially on weekends. Like any big city, vigilance is wise, but violent crime is uncommon in this neighborhood. (Even during the 2013 Gezi protests, crowds on Bağdat Avenue remained peaceful before being dispersed by police along the Bosphorus Bridge.) Street lighting and patrols are plentiful.

Republic Day Parade & Fenerbahçe Celebrations

Bağdat Avenue is closely tied to local culture and celebrations. Every October 29th (Republic Day), Kadıköy hosts a grand march on the avenue. In fact, local government touts this as one of Istanbul’s most spectacular Republic Day parades. The procession gathers at Göztepe Park around 7 pm and parades westward along Bağdat Caddesi, with attendees waving Turkish flags and Atatürk posters. For many Istanbul residents, joining or watching this march has become an annual tradition.

Likewise, Bağdat Avenue is a lightning rod for Fenerbahçe S.K. fandom. Whenever Fenerbahçe wins the national football title (or a major derby), fans pour onto the street near the Şükrü Saracoğlu stadium (the western end of the avenue). The ground section of the road is often repainted in blue and yellow for the occasion, and jubilant supporters honk horns and sing well into the night. The atmosphere is carnival-like – part street party, part rally – and spills from the stadium into Suadiye and beyond.

Other Annual Events

  • Street Racing (historical): A note on Bağdat’s quirky past: from the 1960s through the 1990s, midnight “drag races” were a local phenomenon on this wide boulevard. After several fatal crashes in the late 1990s, the city strictly curtailed these races. Today, the mention survives more as legend than practice.
  • Shopping Festivals: Occasionally the city hosts shopping events (such as the Caddebostan Shopping Festival in June or winter sale promotions in January). During these times, Bağdat Avenue’s stores may stay open late and offer deep discounts.
  • Cultural Nights: In summer, Kadıköy’s Moda stage (in Göztepe Park) sometimes projects concerts onto large screens along the street, so passersby can catch open-air performances from their cars or cafés.
  • Outdoor Installations: Every few years, art collectives install light or sculpture exhibits along the center medians (check the Kadıköy Municipality site or local arts calendars for current festivals).

 

Parks, Culture & Family Activities

Though primarily a shopping boulevard, Bağdat Caddesi is surprisingly close to several green oases and family-friendly attractions.

  • Göztepe 60th Year Park: This 17-hectare park is the major green lung along the avenue. Its Japanese garden, exotic rose garden and playgrounds make it perfect for families. There is even a small open-air fitness area and a mini Zoo corner. Every spring the park bursts with tulips, and in June it becomes Istanbul’s rose capital, holding the annual Rose & Travel Festival (many visitors come just for this floral spectacle). In late 2024, Kadıköy also inaugurated a small Kemal Sunal Museum here, honoring the beloved comedic actor, adding a cultural attraction within the park.
  • Freedom Park (Özgürlük Park): Another leafy retreat lies north of Bağdat Caddesi at Selamiçeşme, called Freedom Park. Once an Ottoman-era cemetery, it was redesigned with playgrounds, walking paths and ponds. Local families walk or picnic there in the evenings. It even has an open-air amphitheater for occasional events.
  • Bike Lanes & Rentals: The city’s İsbike rental bikes have stations every few blocks. A paved lane runs along the north side of the avenue for more than 10 km, offering a dedicated cycle path. (From early 2024, the city has been adding signage and traffic lights specifically for cyclists here.) Children often rent bikes or scooters in Göztepe Park under parental supervision.
  • Caddebostan Beach Park: At the far east end, just south of the avenue, is the Caddebostan coastal park. It has beaches, biking trails and picnic areas by the sea. While not on Bağdat Caddesi itself, it’s a five-minute walk from the avenue’s terminus at Maltepe. From here, ferries depart for the Princes’ Islands – a fun day trip for families (Büyükada’s island streets are traffic-free and great for kids on bikes).
  • Toy Museum (Oyuncak Müzesi): Mentioned above, this quirky museum in Göztepe’s backstreets (entrance at Hüsnü Şakırın Parkı) delights young visitors. Inside are toys from the Ottoman era to mid-20th century, all arranged in imaginative dioramas. Bright animal street lamps lead the way from Bağdat to the museum.
  • Other Activities: The coast of Caddebostan (near Bostancı) is dotted with small cafés and street food stalls in summer. Public swings and ponds also keep children busy. And keep an eye out for impromptu chess or backgammon games at park benches—locals often challenge visitors for a quick match in the green squares along the avenue.

 

Real Estate & Lifestyle Snapshot

Bağdat Avenue and its environs are among Istanbul’s most desirable residential neighborhoods. Property here is expensive by local standards. According to real estate surveys, the average apartment price in the prime Suadiye–Caddebostan area is several thousand TL per square meter. (For context, a 100 m² flat can easily cost the equivalent of $300–500,000 USD or more in 2025.) The street’s glitzy image is reflected in its real-estate market: luxury new condominium projects and penthouse renovations are common along or just off the avenue.

However, Bağdat Caddesi also hosts long-time residents. Many middle-class families live in its mid-century apartment blocks. There are preschools and even some private international schools (German and British curricula) on the side streets. In other words, the street is both a shopping thoroughfare and a living neighborhood. Cafés often serve all day to accommodate both shoppers and local grandmothers stopping by for tea.

A few lifestyle notes:

  • Cost of Living: Plan on higher day-to-day expenses compared to more modest parts of Istanbul. A restaurant meal can run 50–100% above the city average. Groceries and services (salons, dry cleaning) also carry a premium, reflecting the clientele.
  • Family Friendly: Despite the upmarket sheen, Bağdat is quite family-oriented. Sidewalks often have strollers and playgrounds. There are spots like Göztepe Park and indoor playrooms (in malls) catering to children. Evening crowds include families returning from outings.
  • Pet-friendly: Yes – many residents walk dogs along the avenue or in the parks. A number of pet-friendly cafés welcome furry companions.
  • Gentrification: Over the past decade, some older community businesses (like traditional local eateries) have been displaced by international cafés and boutiques. That said, small family-run shops still cling to side streets in Kızıltoprak and Feneryolu. The tension between global and local character is part of the avenue’s dynamic.

In summary, living near Bağdat Avenue means easy access to shopping and transit, but also means higher rents and a fast-paced environment. It’s often compared to New York’s Upper East Side in vibe – neither cheap nor bohemian, but comfortable and well-serviced.

Practical Tips & Cost Calculator

  • Istanbulkart: Get an Istanbulkart (public transport pass) at any mini-market or kiosk near a Marmaray/metro station. The card costs about ₺130 (one-time fee) and you then load it with credit for buses/trains (~₺20 per ride on average). You can also use it to pay for some ferries and some bike-share rentals.
  • Restrooms: Public restrooms are scarce on the avenue itself. The safest bet is inside a mall (e.g., the mall at Suadiye Metro City) or in a coffee shop (ask to use theirs – a small purchase is appreciated).
  • SIM Cards: Three Turkish carriers (Turkcell, Türk Telekom, Vodafone) have shops on Bağdat Caddesi. Plans start around 90–150 ₺ for modest data packages. Tourist/Visa regulations require your passport for purchase. Alternatively, an eSIM (downloadable profile) is convenient for short stays. (For quick setup, many travelers buy a pre-paid SIM at IST airport or at a Turkcell store in Kadıköy Square.)
  • Tipping: Service staff do not expect large tips. Leaving 5–10% for table service in mid- to high-end restaurants is customary, and rounding up taxi fares is polite. In fast-food or casual spots, no tip is needed.
  • Attire: Istanbul is cosmopolitan. There is no strict dress code on Bağdat Avenue – most people wear smart casual or trendy Western clothes. When visiting one of the mosques along the street (e.g. Galib Paşa Mosque), women should carry a scarf to cover heads, but otherwise normal city attire is fine.
  • Safety: As mentioned, petty theft can occur (pickpocketing in crowded areas is possible). Keep wallets in front pockets or use a money belt if the avenue feels busy. At night, the area is well-lit and generally safe, but always use licensed taxis or ride-hailing services after dark.
  • ATMs and Banks: Several banks with ATMs line the street (Ziraat, Garanti, etc.). Credit cards are widely accepted almost everywhere except the smallest vendors.
  • Currency: The Turkish lira (₺) is used. At time of writing, 1 USD ≈ 27–29 ₺ (early 2025). Prices on Bağdat Avenue can fluctuate with exchange rates, so check a currency app before purchase.

Compare: Bağdat Avenue vs İstiklal Avenue

Though often likened to each other as Istanbul’s two main shopping avenues, Bağdat Avenue and İstiklal Caddesi offer very different experiences:

Aspect Bağdat Avenue (Kadıköy, Asian side) İstiklal Avenue (Beyoğlu, European side)
Scale & Setting ~14 km, wide, one-way street with greenery. Neighborhood feels spread-out; seaside views at ends. ~3 km, pedestrian-only street, historic masonry shops. Densely built, narrow in parts.
Architectural Character Largely 20th–21st century buildings (apartment towers, modern malls). Few old monuments. 19th-century Ottoman/European architecture, preserved facades, historic tram. Many heritage sites.
Crowds & Atmosphere Bustling but not wall-to-wall; families and shoppers of all ages, especially during day. Sidewalks broad. Nightlife is more subdued outside key spots. Very congested, touristy. Heavy foot traffic around Taksim, Galata. Vibrant nightlife (bars, concerts) spills onto streets all night.
Shopping & Dining Premium global brands, luxury goods, cafés with local flair. High fashion stores dominate. More restaurants than street-food carts. Mix of international chains and Turkish brands. Numerous street food kiosks (corn, kebabs, döner). More budget eateries alongside high-end.
Cost Level Generally higher-end; dining and living costs are steep, comparable to other upscale neighborhoods of Istanbul. Mixed: tourist prices in İstiklal can be high (especially for beer/cocktails), but also many budget options (street vendors, university students).
Historical Sites Few on-street relics (e.g., one surviving Ottoman mosque). History is felt in the name more than in scenery. Many landmarks (Galata Tower, historical passages, Atatürk Museum). The street itself is historic.
Night Safety Very safe, well-lit. Policed and open until late, but quieter nightlife (no stationing as a gathering point for general partying). Generally safe in tourist areas, but crowds and scammers are more common after dark. Police presence is high.
Accessibility One can drive or take the train to many points along it. Parking is challenging near busy districts. Car-free; best reached by tram or funicular. Handier for walking tours of city’s core.

In sum, Bağdat Avenue is more suburban in scale and luxury-focus, ideal for all-day shopping and relaxed seaside strolls. İstiklal Avenue is hyper-urban and historic, crowded with nightlife and cultural venues. Both are worth visiting, but Bağdat Caddesi shines as a modern, polished contrast to the old-world charm of İstiklal.

 

Sample Itineraries

One-Day Itinerary (Bağdat Avenue Focus):
Begin at Kadıköy Square after breakfast (take a ferry from Eminönü to Kadıköy). Ride Marmaray east to Göztepe for a quick morning walk in Göztepe Park and a museum stop (Toy Museum or Kemal Sunal Museum). Head west on Bağdat Caddesi, browsing shops in Caddebostan and Suadiye. Lunch at a sujuk-seen place like Antep Ocakbaşı in Suadiye. In the afternoon, relax at a coastal café in Caddebostan Park. Continue shopping toward Bostancı, stopping at Vakko Beymen or local boutiques. For dinner, try a grill restaurant (e.g. Kızılkayalar) near Bostancı. In the evening catch a ferry from Bostancı to the Princes’ Islands for a moonlit island walk (July–September). Return by late evening.

Two-Day Itinerary (Bagdat + Kadıköy):
Day 1: Follow the one-day plan above, then spend the evening at Kadıköy Çarşı. Take the metro or a short taxi back and forth to Sırklıcek’s nightlife if desired.
Day 2: Dedicate this day to leisure and local culture. Start with breakfast in the seaside Caddebostan Park. Wander through Caddebostan’s neighborhood shops. Rent bikes and ride the coastal path south to Maltepe Park, enjoying sea views. Stop for lunch at an outdoor fish restaurant on the shore (near Maltepe). Return to Kadıköy center by Marmaray or shuttle (or explore the new Kadıköy Moda tram). Spend the afternoon in Kadıköy Çarşı (gallery-hopping at Depo Gallery, or tea under the plane trees of Çarşı). End the day with dinner and live music at Kadıköy’s intimate venues (such as Nardis Jazz Club or a bar on Osmanaga Street).

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Bağdat Avenue worth visiting? If you enjoy shopping, sidewalk cafés and a friendly local vibe, absolutely. Bağdat Avenue offers a distinct contrast to touristy Sultanahmet – it shows the everyday modern Istanbul. Locals appreciate it as a leisure promenade. Non-shoppers will still enjoy the parks, the sea air and people-watching.

When is the best time to visit Bağdat Avenue? Late spring (May–June) and early fall are ideal: weather is mild and outdoor life is at its peak. Avoid midday in July–August (crowded and very hot). Weekday mornings are fairly quiet; nights and weekends see more action and traffic, especially during sale seasons (July/Aug, Jan/Feb).

Is Bağdat Avenue safe at night? Yes. The avenue and surrounding Kadıköy districts are generally safe after dark, with normal city precautions. The street remains busy on summer evenings, and police presence is visible. Many tourists and locals stroll here late into the evening without issue.

How do I pay for transit on Bağdat Avenue? Use the Istanbulkart (rechargeable travel card) on buses, metros and ferries. Cards can be bought at kiosks or major stations. You can also pay by contactless bank card on most transports. For taxis, insist on the meter or agree on fare in advance (credit cards are accepted in most cabs today).

What should I buy on Bağdat Avenue? Fashion and accessories top the list. Shoes, bags and clothes from Turkish and international brands are popular. For souvenirs, look for zeytin (olive oil products) and lokum (Turkish delight) at specialty shops. Many boutiques also sell mid-priced jewelry and home décor. If in doubt, department stores like Beymen have curated gift shops.

Where can I find public bathrooms? Inside the Tepe Nautilus or MetroCity malls, and larger cafés like Starbucks. Otherwise one is reminded to find a restaurant or café (even a small coffee purchase gives restroom access).

How do I catch ferries or metro from Bağdat Avenue? Bostancı (east end) and Kadıköy (west of Kadıköy Square) have ferry terminals. Marmaray stations (Suadiye, etc.) connect to the metro lines at Ayrılıkçeşmesi/Kadıköy. Taxis and city buses are plentiful as well.

Are there international hotels on Bağdat Avenue? A few boutique hotels and serviced apartments exist (especially in Kadıköy and Suadiye), but major chains are sparse. Many visitors stay in Kadıköy or Asian-side hotels near the D-100 highway and commute to Bağdat Avenue.

Conclusion

Bağdat Avenue is far more than “just another shopping street.” It is a living slice of Istanbul: tree-lined promenades meeting skyscrapers, Turkish tradition sharing space with global commerce, and everyday life unfolding with a view of the Marmara. This guide has aimed to lay out the avenue’s essentials in 2025 – from history and logistics to dining and hidden gems. For further information, the official Kadıköy Municipality site offers event calendars (e.g. for Republic Day parades and local festivals). Visitors should also consult the İstanbulkart guide (available online) for public transit details and obtain the latest City of Istanbul tourism brochures for up-to-date happenings.

Bağdat Avenue rewards those who explore it slowly: a place to shop, eat and learn, a place where every block has its own story. With diligent planning and an open mind, travelers can appreciate this boulevard both as a modern metropolis destination and a thread in the city’s rich tapestry.

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